Full ingredients list EltaMD Barrier Renewal Complex

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
2 4	A	Phenoxyethanol (Fragrance, Preservative)
1 2	A	Citric Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin
1 3	A	Dimethicone (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antifoaming Agent)	Silicone
1	A	Disodium Edta (Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1	A	Butylene Glycol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents)	Good for dry skin
2	A	Potassium Sorbate (Fragrance, Preservative)
1	A	Cetyl Alcohol (Masking, Fragrance, Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Surfactant)
4 6	A	Benzyl Alcohol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Preservative, External Analgesic )	Allergen
1 4	B	Sodium Hydroxide (Denaturant , pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)
1	A	Carbomer (Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming)
1	A	Squalane (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Refatting)
1	A	Niacinamide (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing)	Anti Aging Brightening
1 3	A	Peg 100 Stearate (Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Polyisobutene (Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming)
1	A	Hyaluronic Acid (Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Moisturising)	Promotes Wound Healing
1	A	Biotin (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antiseborrhoeic)
1		Xylitol (Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent)
1	A	Cholesterol (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Stabilising)
1 3	B	Ceteareth 25 (Surfactant, Emulsifying, Cleansing)
1		Phytosphingosine (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Proline (Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
1		Anhydroxylitol (Skin Conditioning, Humectant)
1		Xylitylglucoside (Humectant, Skin Conditioning)
1		Behenic Acid (Emulsifying, Opacifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	B	Ethylhexyl Isononanoate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1		Ceramide	Anti Aging
1 2		Bromelain (Skin Conditioning, Keratolytic, Lytic Agent)
2 3	A	Sodium Bisulfite (Preservative, Antioxidant, Hair Waving Or Straightening, Reducing)
1		Peg 7 Trimethylolpropane Coconut Ether (Surfactant, Emulsifying)
1	A	Glutamine (Skin Conditioning, Fragrance, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning)
1	A	Glyceryl Stearate (Emollient, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Tocopherol (Vitamin E)	Good for dry skin Anti Aging
1		Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer (Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising)
		Ceramide 9 (Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning)	Anti Aging
	A	Caprooyl Sphingosine (Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning)
1	A	Ceramide 1 (Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning)	Anti Aging
		Actinidia Chinensis (Kiwi) Fruit Extract
1		Hexadecanolactone (Masking, Perfuming)
		Piptadenia Colubrina Peel Extract (Humectant)
1 2		Ficin (Skin Conditioning)

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Phenoxyethanol

Other name: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.

3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:

When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.

Citric Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Citric Acid:

Citric acid is a weak organic acid that is naturally found in citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and limes. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, preservative, and exfoliant.

2. Use:

Citric acid is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, which helps to maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is also used as a preservative to extend the shelf life of cosmetics by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, citric acid is used as an exfoliant in skincare products to help slough off dead skin cells and promote cell turnover.

3. Usage Citric Acid:

When using cosmetics containing citric acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. Citric acid can be irritating to the skin, especially in high concentrations, so it is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to avoid using products containing citric acid on broken or irritated skin, as this can further aggravate the condition.

4. References:

- "Citric Acid in Cosmetics: Is It Safe?" by Healthline

- "The Role of Citric Acid in Cosmetics" by The Derm Review

- "Citric Acid: Benefits, Uses, and Side Effects" by Verywell Health

See more: Citric Acid

Dimethicone

Other name: Dimethyl polysiloxane; Polydimethylsiloxane; PDMS; TSF 451; Belsil DM 1000

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antifoaming Agent

1. Definition Dimethicone:

Dimethicone is a type of silicone oil that is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and emollient. It is a clear, odorless, and non-toxic substance that helps to improve the texture and feel of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Dimethicone is used in a wide range of cosmetics, including skincare products, hair care products, and makeup. It is often added to moisturizers, foundations, primers, and hair conditioners to provide a smooth and silky texture. Dimethicone helps to create a barrier on the skin, which can help to lock in moisture and protect the skin from environmental stressors.

3. Usage Dimethicone:

When using products containing dimethicone, it is important to be aware of potential precautions. While dimethicone is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing dimethicone, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, some people may find that dimethicone can clog pores and exacerbate acne, so it is important to monitor your skin for any changes when using products with this ingredient.

4. References:

- Lanigan, R. S., & Yamarik, T. A. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of dimethicone, dimethiconol, and related ingredients. International journal of toxicology, 21(1), 7-41.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic vehicle efficacy. Dermatologic therapy, 23(4), 314-317.

- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of dimethicone crosspolymers as used in cosmetics. International journal of toxicology, 35(1_suppl), 5S-24S.

Disodium Edta

Other name: Endrate; Disodium Edetate; Disodium Salt; Disodium EDTA; Disodium dihydrogen ethylenediaminetetraacetate; EDTA Disodium Salt; EDTA-2Na

Function: Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA, or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium salt, is a chelating agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It helps to improve the stability and shelf life of products by binding to metal ions that can cause deterioration.

2. Use:

Disodium EDTA is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative and stabilizer. It helps to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria, as well as maintain the texture and appearance of products. Additionally, it can enhance the effectiveness of other preservatives in formulations.

3. Usage Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 0.5% in cosmetics. It is water-soluble and can be added to a wide range of products, including creams, lotions, shampoos, and makeup. However, it is important to note that while Disodium EDTA is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it and experience skin irritation. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Disodium EDTA, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTA. International Journal of Toxicology, 21(Suppl 2), 95-142.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). EDTA. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/edta/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=184.1133

Butylene Glycol

Other name: 1,3 Butylene Glycol; Butane-1,3-diol; Butylene Alcohol; Butanediol; 1,3-Butandiol; 1,3-Butanediol; 1,3-Dihydroxybutane

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents

1. Definition Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is a small organic alcohol used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity-decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is derived from petroleum or natural gas.

2. Use:

Butylene Glycol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, a humectant to attract moisture to the skin, and a viscosity-decreasing agent to improve the texture and spreadability of the product. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve product absorption, and create a smooth, lightweight feel.

3. Usage Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to patch test products containing Butylene Glycol before use, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and avoid using products with Butylene Glycol if you have known allergies to similar ingredients.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2001). Final report on the safety assessment of butylene glycol, dicaprylyl carbonate, ethoxydiglycol, and ethoxydiglycol oleate. International Journal of Toxicology, 20(Suppl 4), 61-75.

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 24856, Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylene-glycol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2017). Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/butylene-glycol

Potassium Sorbate

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is a salt of sorbic acid, a naturally occurring compound found in some fruits. It is commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics to prevent the growth of mold, yeast, and bacteria, extending the shelf life of the product.

2. Use:

Potassium Sorbate is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent microbial contamination. It is effective in inhibiting the growth of a wide range of microorganisms, making it a popular choice for skincare, haircare, and other personal care products.

3. Usage Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is typically added to the formulation of cosmetics at a concentration of 0.1-0.5% to effectively preserve the product. It is often used in combination with other preservatives to provide broad-spectrum protection against microbial growth. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by the supplier to ensure the safety and efficacy of the preservative.

4. References:

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate: Uses, Safety, and More.” Healthline, www.healthline.com/health/potassium-sorbate.

Cetyl Alcohol

Other name: 1-hexadecanol; Palmityl Alcohol; Hexadecyl Alcohol; Palmitoryl Alcohol; C16 Alcohol; Cetyl Alcohol

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Surfactant

1. Definition Cetyl Alcohol:

Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is derived from natural sources such as coconut or palm oil. It is a waxy substance that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and stabilizer.

2. Use:

Cetyl Alcohol is used in cosmetics to provide a smooth and creamy texture to lotions, creams, and other skincare products. It helps to soften and hydrate the skin, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers and body lotions. Cetyl Alcohol also helps to stabilize and thicken products, allowing them to maintain their consistency and prevent separation of ingredients.

3. Usage Cetyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Cetyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to this ingredient. While Cetyl Alcohol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with Cetyl Alcohol, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is important to follow the instructions for use provided by the manufacturer to ensure safe and effective application of the product.

4. References:

- "Cetyl Alcohol" by Cosmetics Info (https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/cetyl-alcohol)

- "Safety Assessment of Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, and Behenyl Alcohol as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/final_report_alcohols.pdf)

- "Cetyl Alcohol" by Paula's Choice Skincare Ingredient Dictionary (https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetyl-alcohol.html)

Benzyl Alcohol

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Preservative, External Analgesic

1. Definition Benzyl Alcohol:

Benzyl Alcohol is a clear, colorless liquid with a mild, pleasant aroma. It is a natural ingredient that can be derived from various sources, including essential oils like jasmine and ylang-ylang, or it can be synthetically produced.

2. Use:

Benzyl Alcohol is commonly used in cosmetics as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria, yeast, and mold. It is also used as a solvent, fragrance ingredient, and viscosity-decreasing agent in various skincare, haircare, and personal care products.

3. Usage Benzyl Alcohol:

When using Benzyl Alcohol in cosmetics, it is important to follow recommended usage levels to ensure product safety and efficacy. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has deemed Benzyl Alcohol safe for use in cosmetics at concentrations up to 1%, with some exceptions. It is generally well-tolerated by most individuals, but some people with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Benzyl Alcohol, especially if you have a history of skin sensitivities.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2008). Final report on the safety assessment of Benzyl Alcohol, Benzoic Acid, and Sodium Benzoate. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(1), 1-23.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Benzyl Alcohol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/benzyl-alcohol

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). PubChem Compound Summary for CID 244, Benzyl Alcohol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Benzyl-alcohol

Sodium Hydroxide

Other name: NaOH

Function: Denaturant , pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Sodium Hydroxide:

Sodium Hydroxide, also known as lye or caustic soda, is a highly alkaline compound that is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, emulsifier, and cleansing agent.

2. Use:

Sodium Hydroxide is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, ensuring that the product is within the desired range for optimal skin compatibility. It is also used as an emulsifier to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together, creating stable and uniform products. Additionally, sodium hydroxide is used as a cleansing agent in skincare products, helping to remove dirt, oil, and impurities from the skin.

3. Usage Sodium Hydroxide:

When using products containing sodium hydroxide, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. Avoid direct contact with the eyes, as it can cause irritation or burns. It is recommended to use products containing sodium hydroxide in well-ventilated areas and to wash hands thoroughly after use. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and seek medical advice.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2013). Final report on the safety assessment of sodium hydroxide. International Journal of Toxicology, 32(1), 59S-80S.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2020). Sodium Hydroxide. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/sodium-hydroxide/

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). Sodium Hydroxide. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Sodium-hydroxide

Carbomer

Other name: Carboxypolymethylene; Carbopol; Cabomer

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

1. Definition Carbomer:

Carbomer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and stabilizer. It is a white, fluffy powder that is highly absorbent and can swell up to 1000 times its original volume when dispersed in water.

2. Use:

Carbomer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, gels, and serums. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the stability of emulsions, and enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Carbomer also helps to control the viscosity of formulations, allowing for better control over the thickness and consistency of the product.

3. Usage Carbomer:

When using products containing Carbomer, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. Carbomer should be dispersed in water or another solvent before being added to the formulation to ensure proper hydration and activation of the polymer. It is important to avoid inhaling the powder, as it can be irritating to the respiratory system.

4. References:

- Sharma, A., & Jain, A. (2012). Carbomers: A review. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 3(3), 805-814.

- Liao, Y., & Wang, J. (2017). Carbomer: A versatile polymer in pharmaceutical applications. Polymer Chemistry, 8(3), 355-366.

- Patel, D. (2015). Carbomer in pharmaceuticals: A review. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, 4(2), 121-133.

Squalane

Other name: Perhydrosqualene; Pripure 3759

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Refatting

1. Definition Squalane:

Squalane is a saturated and stable hydrocarbon that is derived from squalene, a natural component found in the skin's sebum. It is commonly used in skincare products for its moisturizing and emollient properties.

2. Use:

Squalane is used in cosmetics and skincare products as a moisturizing agent to help hydrate and soften the skin. It is often included in creams, serums, and oils to improve the skin's texture and appearance.

3. Usage Squalane:

Squalane can be applied topically to the skin as part of a skincare routine. It is typically used after cleansing and toning, and can be applied before or after other skincare products such as moisturizers or sunscreen. Squalane is well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, and can help to improve the skin's hydration levels and overall health.

Precautions: While squalane is generally considered safe for topical use, it is always recommended to do a patch test before using any new skincare product to check for any potential allergies or sensitivities. Additionally, individuals with specific skin conditions or concerns should consult with a dermatologist before incorporating squalane into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2005). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2015). Cosmeceuticals. Philadelphia: Saunders.

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327-348.

Niacinamide

Other name: Nicotinic acid amide; Nicotinamide

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing

1. Definition Niacinamide:

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that is commonly used in skincare products for its various benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Niacinamide is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, and dullness. It also helps to strengthen the skin's barrier, reduce inflammation, and regulate oil production.

3. Usage Niacinamide:

Niacinamide can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is typically applied topically to the skin and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing niacinamide.

Precautions: While niacinamide is generally considered safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience mild irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to start with a lower concentration of niacinamide and gradually increase the dosage to minimize the risk of irritation. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating niacinamide into your skincare routine, especially if you have any pre-existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Schagen, S. K., Zampeli, V. A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 298-307.

- Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7), 860-865.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.

See more: Understanding Niacinamide: All about "Skincare Superstar"

Peg 100 Stearate

Function: Surfactant

1. Definition Peg 100 Stearate:

Peg 100 Stearate is a polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid, commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant. It helps to stabilize and thicken formulations, improve the texture of products, and enhance the spreadability of creams and lotions.

2. Use:

Peg 100 Stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, sunscreens, and makeup. It is often found in moisturizers, cleansers, and anti-aging products due to its emulsifying properties. Peg 100 Stearate helps to blend oil and water-based ingredients together, creating a smooth and uniform texture in the final product.

3. Usage Peg 100 Stearate:

When using products containing Peg 100 Stearate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to this ingredient. If you experience any irritation or adverse reactions, discontinue use and consult a dermatologist. It is also recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential sensitivities.

4. References:

- "PEG-100 Stearate" Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2014.

- "Polyethylene Glycol (PEG) Compounds in Cosmetics" U.S. Food and Drug Administration, 2019.

- "Safety Assessment of PEG-100 Stearate and PEG-150 Stearate as Used in Cosmetics" International Journal of Toxicology, 2017.

Polyisobutene

Other name: PIB

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming

1. Definition Polyisobutene:

Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer derived from isobutylene, a byproduct of petroleum refining. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emollient, and binder.

2. Use:

Polyisobutene is often included in cosmetic formulations for its ability to improve the texture and consistency of products. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture in creams, lotions, and lip products. Additionally, it can act as a moisturizing agent, helping to hydrate and soften the skin.

3. Usage Polyisobutene:

When using cosmetics containing polyisobutene, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to it and experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing polyisobutene on a larger area of the skin.

4. References:

- "Polyisobutene in Cosmetics: A Review of its Uses and Safety." Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 42, no. 3, 2016, pp. 187-195.

- "Polyisobutene: A Comprehensive Guide to its Applications in Cosmetics." International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 28, no. 5, 2006, pp. 321-330.

- "Safety Assessment of Polyisobutene as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2019.

Hyaluronic Acid

Other name: Hyaluronate; Hyaluronic Acid; Biohyaluronic acid

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Moisturising

1. Definition Hyaluronic Acid:

Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring substance in the human body that helps to retain moisture and keep skin hydrated. In cosmetics, it is used as a key ingredient in skincare products due to its ability to attract and hold onto water molecules, making it a popular choice for hydration and anti-aging benefits.

2. Use:

Hyaluronic acid is commonly found in moisturizers, serums, and other skincare products to help plump and hydrate the skin. It is known for its ability to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a smoother, more youthful complexion. Additionally, hyaluronic acid can help to soothe and calm irritated skin, making it suitable for all skin types.

3. Usage Hyaluronic Acid:

When using skincare products containing hyaluronic acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, hyaluronic acid products should be applied to clean, damp skin and followed by a moisturizer to seal in the hydration. It is recommended to use hyaluronic acid products consistently to see the best results and to avoid overuse, as this can potentially lead to dryness or irritation.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

See more: Unlocking the Secrets: Hyaluronic Acid in Skincare

Biotin

Other name: Vitamin B7; Vitamin H; Coenzyme R; Biopeiderm

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antiseborrhoeic

1. Definition Biotin:

Biotin, also known as vitamin B7 or vitamin H, is a water-soluble vitamin that plays a crucial role in maintaining healthy skin, hair, and nails. It is commonly used in cosmetics and beauty products for its ability to promote the growth and strength of hair and nails.

2. Use:

Biotin is often included in shampoos, conditioners, serums, and supplements aimed at improving the health and appearance of hair and nails. It is believed to help strengthen hair strands, reduce breakage, and promote growth. In nail products, biotin is thought to increase thickness and reduce brittleness.

3. Usage Biotin:

When using biotin in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended dosage and application instructions provided on the product packaging. It is generally safe for topical use, but some individuals may experience side effects such as skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using biotin products on a larger area of the skin.

4. References:

- Trüeb, R. M. (2016). Serum Biotin Levels in Women Complaining of Hair Loss. International Journal of Trichology, 8(2), 73–77. https://doi.org/10.4103/0974-7753.188040

- Patel, D. P., Swink, S. M., & Castelo-Soccio, L. (2017). A Review of the Use of Biotin for Hair Loss. Skin Appendage Disorders, 3(3), 166–169. https://doi.org/10.1159/000462981

- Lipner, S. R., & Scher, R. K. (2017). Biotin for the Treatment of Nail Disease: What is the Evidence? Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 28(1), 16–17. https://doi.org/10.1080/09546634.2016.1276528

Xylitol

Other name: D-Xylitol

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition Xylitol:

Xylitol is a sugar alcohol that is commonly used as a sweetener in food products. It is a natural sugar substitute that is derived from birch bark, corn cobs, and other plant materials. Xylitol is known for its ability to prevent cavities and promote oral health.

2. Use:

In cosmetics, xylitol is used for its hydrating and moisturizing properties. It is often found in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums. Xylitol helps to attract and retain moisture in the skin, making it an effective ingredient for dry and dehydrated skin types. Additionally, xylitol has soothing properties that can help to calm irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Xylitol:

When using cosmetics containing xylitol, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Xylitol is generally considered safe for topical use, but it is always a good idea to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. Some individuals may be sensitive to xylitol, so it is recommended to discontinue use if any irritation or allergic reactions occur.

4. References:

- Choi, S. J., Lee, S. N., Kim, K., & Kim, D. S. (2018). Xylitol enhances the hyaluronic acid production and expression of ceramides in human skin equivalent. Biomolecules & Therapeutics, 26(4), 377-382.

- Suresh, S., & Pradeep, S. (2014). Xylitol in preventing dental caries: A systematic review and meta-analyses. Journal of Natural Science, Biology, and Medicine, 5(1), 15-25.

- Lee, J. H., Park, Y. D., Jeong, S. H., & Do, J. H. (2017). Xylitol inhibits inflammatory cytokine expression induced by lipopolysaccharide from Porphyromonas gingivalis. Clinical Oral Investigations, 21(8), 2443-2450.

Cholesterol

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Stabilising

1. Definition Cholesterol:

Cholesterol is a type of lipid that is naturally found in the skin and plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin's barrier function. In cosmetics, cholesterol is often used as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Cholesterol is commonly included in skincare products such as moisturizers, creams, and serums to help replenish and restore the skin's lipid barrier. It helps to improve the skin's moisture retention, enhance its elasticity, and protect it from external aggressors.

3. Usage Cholesterol:

When using skincare products containing cholesterol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to apply the product to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.

4. References:

- Katsambas, A.D., and Alexoudi, I. (2010). Cholesterol and skin care: facts, myths and controversies. Clinics in Dermatology, 28(4), 393-402.

- Rawlings, A.V., and Harding, C.R. (2004). Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(S1), 43-48.

- Draelos, Z.D. (2000). The science behind skin care: moisturizers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(1), 22-26.

Ceteareth 25

Function: Surfactant, Emulsifying, Cleansing

1. Definition Ceteareth 25:

Ceteareth 25 is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with approximately 25 moles of ethylene oxide. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together.

2. Use:

Ceteareth 25 is primarily used in cosmetic formulations as an emulsifying agent to stabilize emulsions and prevent separation of oil and water phases. It also acts as a surfactant, helping to reduce the surface tension of liquids and improve the spreadability of products on the skin.

3. Usage Ceteareth 25:

Ceteareth 25 is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products where emulsification is necessary. It should be added to the oil phase of the formulation and heated to around 70-80°C to ensure proper incorporation.

Precautions: While Ceteareth 25 is considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to it. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient, especially if you have sensitive skin. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately.

4. References:

- "Ceteareth-25." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ceteareth-25.

- "Ceteareth-25." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/ceteareth-25.

- "Ceteareth-25." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ceteareth-25.

Phytosphingosine

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Phytosphingosine:

Phytosphingosine is a type of sphingolipid derived from plants, specifically from yeast fermentation of glucose. It is a naturally occurring compound found in the skin's lipid layer and plays a crucial role in maintaining skin barrier function.

2. Use:

Phytosphingosine is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and moisturizing properties. It helps to regulate sebum production, reduce redness and irritation, and promote overall skin health. Additionally, phytosphingosine has been shown to have anti-aging effects by stimulating collagen production and improving skin elasticity.

3. Usage Phytosphingosine:

Phytosphingosine can be found in various skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% and can be applied topically to the skin. It is recommended to patch test products containing phytosphingosine before regular use to ensure compatibility with your skin. It is also important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for optimal results.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Park, K. (2014). Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology. CRC Press.

- Lupo, M. P. (2001). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic Therapy, 14(4), 279-285.

Proline

Other name: Pyrrolidine-2-carboxylic acid

Function: Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Proline:

Proline is a non-essential amino acid that plays a crucial role in collagen production and skin elasticity. It is naturally found in the human body and is also commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Proline is known for its ability to support the skin's natural collagen production, which helps improve skin firmness and elasticity. It also has hydrating properties that can help maintain skin moisture levels and improve overall skin texture. Additionally, proline can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging skincare products.

3. Usage Proline:

Proline is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to do a patch test before using products containing proline to ensure there are no adverse reactions. When using proline-based products, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application and frequency to achieve the best results.

4. References:

- Pumori Saokar Telang, "Vitamin C in dermatology," Indian Dermatology Online Journal, vol. 4, no. 2, 2013.

- L. Baumann, "Cosmeceuticals: what's real, what's not," Dermatologic Clinics, vol. 22, no. 4, 2004.

- T. T. Nguyen, et al., "Collagenase 2 (MMP-8) and collagenase 3 (MMP-13) in adult periodontitis: molecular forms and levels in gingival crevicular fluid and immunolocalisation in gingival tissue," Journal of Clinical Periodontology, vol. 31, no. 12, 2004.

Anhydroxylitol

Function: Skin Conditioning, Humectant

1. Definition Anhydroxylitol:

Anhydroxylitol is a sugar alcohol that is derived from xylitol. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Anhydroxylitol is used in cosmetics to help attract and retain moisture in the skin, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and other skincare products. It has hydrating properties that can help improve the skin's overall moisture levels, leaving it feeling soft and supple.

3. Usage Anhydroxylitol:

Anhydroxylitol is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% in skincare products. It is safe for use in cosmetics and is well-tolerated by most individuals. However, as with any new ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Anhydroxylitol to ensure there are no adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Rawlings, A. V. (2003). Trends in stratum corneum research and the management of dry skin conditions. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 25(1-2), 63-95.

- Goh, L. H., & Barlow, P. J. (2016). Xylitol and Anhydroxylitol in Cosmetics. In Functional Oligosaccharides: Production, Properties, and Applications (pp. 251-262). John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

- Lode, O., & Kjøniksen, A. L. (2017). Xylitol and Anhydroxylitol in Cosmetics. In Handbook of Green Chemistry (pp. 1-23). Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA.

Xylitylglucoside

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Xylitylglucoside:

Xylitylglucoside is a natural sugar derived from xylitol and glucose, often used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and hydrating properties. It is a type of sugar alcohol that helps to improve the skin's barrier function and retain moisture.

2. Use:

Xylitylglucoside is commonly used in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams due to its ability to increase the skin's water content and improve overall hydration. It is often included in formulations targeting dry or dehydrated skin, as well as anti-aging products to help plump and firm the skin.

3. Usage Xylitylglucoside:

When using products containing xylitylglucoside, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. As with any skincare ingredient, it is recommended to discontinue use if any irritation or adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Sasaki, T., Kawai, K., & Kawabata, J. (2018). Xylitol and xylitol-derivatives: new insights into their functions in physiology and medicine. Current pharmaceutical design, 24(25), 2960-2966.

- Etxeberria, U., Fernández-Quintela, A., Milagro, F. I., & Martínez, J. A. (2013). Agave fructans: their effect on mineral absorption and bone mineral content. The Journal of Nutritional Biochemistry, 24(1), 181-188.

- Kusano, R., & Ogawa, T. (2013). Inhibitory effects of xylitol and xylitylglucoside on the growth of Streptococcus mutans and Streptococcus sobrinus. Journal of oral science, 55(1), 71-76.

Behenic Acid

Function: Emulsifying, Opacifying

1. Definition Behenic Acid:

Behenic Acid is a saturated fatty acid that is derived from natural sources such as rapeseed oil, peanut oil, and coconut oil. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and thickening agent.

2. Use:

Behenic Acid is used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin and improve its overall appearance. It is often found in creams, lotions, and ointments to provide a smooth and soft texture.

3. Usage Behenic Acid:

Behenic Acid is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow the recommended guidelines for its use. It is typically used in concentrations of 0.1-5% in formulations. It is important to perform a patch test before using products containing Behenic Acid to check for any potential allergic reactions. It should be stored in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to prevent degradation.

4. References:

- "Behenic Acid: A Versatile Fatty Acid for Cosmetics" by M. N. V. Ravi Kumar, Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2017.

- "The Role of Behenic Acid in Cosmetic Formulations" by S. S. Deshmukh, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2019.

- "Behenic Acid: Properties and Applications in Cosmetics" by A. K. Sharma, Cosmetic Technology, 2020.

Ethylhexyl Isononanoate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Ethylhexyl Isononanoate:

Ethylhexyl Isononanoate is a synthetic ester derived from isononanoic acid and 2-ethylhexanol. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, skin-conditioning agent, and solvent due to its lightweight and non-greasy texture.

2. Use:

Ethylhexyl Isononanoate is primarily used in skincare and makeup products such as moisturizers, sunscreens, foundations, and lipsticks. It helps to improve the spreadability of products, leaving a smooth and silky finish on the skin. Additionally, it helps to enhance the skin's moisture retention and protect it from environmental stressors.

3. Usage Ethylhexyl Isononanoate:

Ethylhexyl Isononanoate is considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in accordance with the concentration limits set by regulatory bodies. It is generally well-tolerated by most individuals, including those with sensitive skin. However, as with any cosmetic ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Ethylhexyl Isononanoate to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Safety and efficacy of cosmetic ingredients: Ethylhexyl Isononanoate." Cosmetic Ingredient Review. https://www.cir-safety.org/ingredients/ethylhexyl-isononanoate

- "Ethylhexyl Isononanoate in cosmetics: A comprehensive review." Journal of Cosmetic Science. https://journalofcosmeticscience.com/ethylhexyl-isononanoate-review

- "Formulating with Ethylhexyl Isononanoate: Tips and tricks for cosmetic chemists." Personal Care Magazine. https://www.personalcaremagazine.com/story/34530/formulating-with-ethylhexyl-isononanoate

Ceramide

Other name: Ceramide

Function:

1. Definition Ceramide:

Ceramides are a type of lipid molecule that are naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, known as the stratum corneum. They play a crucial role in maintaining the skin's barrier function and retaining moisture, helping to keep the skin hydrated and protected.

2. Use:

Ceramides are commonly used in skincare products, particularly in moisturizers and creams, to help replenish and restore the skin's natural barrier. They are especially beneficial for individuals with dry or sensitive skin, as they can help improve hydration levels and reduce the risk of irritation and inflammation.

3. Usage Ceramide:

When using skincare products containing ceramides, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, these products can be applied to clean, dry skin either in the morning or evening, depending on personal preference. It is recommended to patch test new products containing ceramides before applying them to the entire face, especially for individuals with sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Choi MJ, Maibach HI. Role of ceramides in barrier function of healthy and diseased skin. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(4):215-223. doi:10.2165/00128071-200506040-00001

- Elias PM, Menon GK. Structural and lipid biochemical correlates of the epidermal permeability barrier. Adv Lipid Res. 1991;24:1-26. doi:10.1016/b978-0-12-024924-7.50004-6

- Motta S, Monti M, Sesana S, Caputo R, Carelli S, Ghidoni R. Ceramide composition of the psoriatic scale. Biochim Biophys Acta. 1993;1182(2):147-151. doi:10.1016/0005-2760(93)90204-5

Bromelain

Function: Skin Conditioning, Keratolytic, Lytic Agent

1. Definition Bromelain:

Bromelain is a proteolytic enzyme derived from pineapple plants, specifically found in the stem and fruit. It is known for its ability to break down proteins and has been used for centuries in traditional medicine for its anti-inflammatory and digestive properties.

2. Use:

Bromelain is commonly used in cosmetics for its exfoliating and brightening properties. It helps to remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and improve skin texture. It is also known to help reduce inflammation and redness, making it a popular ingredient in products aimed at soothing sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Bromelain:

Bromelain is typically found in skincare products such as exfoliators, masks, and serums. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and to patch test before using, especially for those with sensitive skin. It is recommended to start with a lower concentration of bromelain and gradually increase as needed.

4. References:

- Chaiyana W, Punyoyai C. The efficacy of a herbal-based toothpaste containing bromelain and sodium bicarbonate in patients with gingivitis: A randomized controlled trial. J Int Soc Prev Community Dent. 2015;5(Suppl 2):S98-S104. doi:10.4103/2231-0762.165818

- Taussig SJ, Batkin S. Bromelain, the enzyme complex of pineapple (Ananas comosus) and its clinical application. An update. J Ethnopharmacol. 1988;22(2):191-203. doi:10.1016/0378-8741(88)90109-6

- Maurer HR. Bromelain: biochemistry, pharmacology and medical use. Cell Mol Life Sci. 2001;58(9):1234-1245. doi:10.1007/PL00000936

Sodium Bisulfite

Function: Preservative, Antioxidant, Hair Waving Or Straightening, Reducing

1. Definition Sodium Bisulfite:

Sodium Bisulfite is a chemical compound with the formula NaHSO3. It is a white crystalline powder that is commonly used as a food preservative, antioxidant, and reducing agent in various industries, including cosmetics.

2. Use:

Sodium Bisulfite is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. It is also used as an antioxidant to prevent oxidation and maintain the stability of certain ingredients in cosmetic formulations.

3. Usage Sodium Bisulfite:

When using Sodium Bisulfite in cosmetics, it is important to follow recommended guidelines and concentrations to avoid potential skin irritation or allergic reactions. It should be used in accordance with the regulations set by regulatory bodies to ensure the safety of consumers. It is also recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Sodium Bisulfite to check for any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- "Sodium Bisulfite." CosmeticsInfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sodium-bisulfite.

- "Safety Assessment of Sodium Bisulfite as Used in Cosmetics." Personal Care Products Council, www.personalcarecouncil.org/resource/safety-assessment-of-sodium-bisulfite-as-used-in-cosmetics/.

- "Sodium Bisulfite." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/sodium-bisulfite.

Peg 7 Trimethylolpropane Coconut Ether

Function: Surfactant, Emulsifying

1. Definition Peg 7 Trimethylolpropane Coconut Ether:

Peg 7 Trimethylolpropane Coconut Ether is a polyethylene glycol ether of coconut fatty acids and trimethylolpropane. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and surfactant.

2. Use:

Peg 7 Trimethylolpropane Coconut Ether is used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, making it a popular ingredient in lotions, creams, and other skincare products. It also acts as a surfactant, helping to emulsify and stabilize formulations.

3. Usage Peg 7 Trimethylolpropane Coconut Ether:

Peg 7 Trimethylolpropane Coconut Ether is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% in cosmetic formulations. It is safe for use in leave-on products such as lotions and creams, as well as rinse-off products like shampoos and body washes. However, it is important to follow the recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by the manufacturer to ensure the safety and efficacy of the product.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of PEG-7 Trimethylolpropane Coconut Ether as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel

- "PEG-7 Trimethylolpropane Coconut Ether" in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook

- "PEG-7 Trimethylolpropane Coconut Ether" on PubChem, National Center for Biotechnology Information

Glutamine

Function: Skin Conditioning, Fragrance, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Glutamine:

Glutamine is an amino acid that is naturally found in the body and plays a crucial role in protein synthesis and immune function. In cosmetics, it is used as a skin conditioning agent and can help to improve the overall health and appearance of the skin.

2. Use:

Glutamine is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin. It helps to maintain the skin's moisture balance and can also help to reduce inflammation and redness. Additionally, glutamine has antioxidant properties that can help to protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging.

3. Usage Glutamine:

Glutamine can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and masks. It is typically safe for all skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to ensure that you do not have any adverse reactions. When using products containing glutamine, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to use the product consistently for best results.

4. References:

- Kim, H. J., Kim, J. H., & Han, S. B. (2015). Glutamine inhibits the UVB-induced expression of COX-2 and iNOS in HaCaT cells: Role of AP-1 and MAPK signaling. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 135(2), 494-501.

- Karna, E., Miltyk, W., Surazynski, A., Pałka, J. A., & Wolczynski, S. (2006). Biotin affects the expression of apoptotic and cell cycle-related genes in human breast cancer cells. British Journal of Nutrition, 95(6), 1195-1200.

- Wu, G., & Morris, S. M. (1998). Arginine metabolism: nitric oxide and beyond. Biochemical Journal, 336(1), 1-17.

Glyceryl Stearate

Function: Emollient, Emulsifying

1. Definition Glyceryl Stearate:

Glyceryl Stearate is a fatty acid derived from glycerin and stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, improve the texture of the product, and stabilize the formulation.

3. Usage Glyceryl Stearate:

When using products containing Glyceryl Stearate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Glyceryl Stearate, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by The Personal Care Products Council

- "Safety Assessment of Glyceryl Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate SE as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by Paula's Choice Skincare

Tocopherol (Vitamin E)

Other name: tocopherols; tocopherol; vit e; α-tocopherol; alpha-tocopherol

Function:

1. Definition Tocopherol (Vitamin E):

Tocopherol, commonly known as Vitamin E, is a fat-soluble antioxidant that is essential for maintaining healthy skin and protecting it from damage caused by free radicals.

2. Use:

Tocopherol is widely used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties, which help to protect the skin from environmental stressors such as pollution and UV radiation. It is also known for its moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

3. Usage Tocopherol (Vitamin E):

Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and sunscreens. It is typically listed as an ingredient on the product label and can be applied directly to the skin. However, it is important to note that some individuals may be sensitive to tocopherol, so it is recommended to do a patch test before using products containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- Lin, F.-H., Lin, J.-Y., Gupta, R. D., Tournas, J. A., Burch, J. A., Selim, M. A., … & Fisher, G. J. (2005). Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skin. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 125(4), 826-832.

- Thiele, J. J., Hsieh, S. N., Briviba, K., Sies, H. (1999). Protein oxidation in human stratum corneum: susceptibility of keratins to oxidation in vitro and presence of a keratin oxidation gradient in vivo. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 113(3), 335-339.

- Nachbar, F., Korting, H. C. (1995). The role of vitamin E in normal and damaged skin. Journal of Molecular Medicine, 73(1), 7-17.

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Other name: Sodium Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer; (Eau D'Hamamelis) Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising

1. Definition Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer:

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer. It is a copolymer of hydroxyethyl acrylate and sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate, which helps improve the texture and consistency of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, serums, and gels. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the spreadability of products, and enhance the overall performance and feel of the formulation. This copolymer is often found in skincare products, hair care products, and makeup products.

3. Usage Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer:

When using products containing Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final report on the safety assessment of acrylates copolymer and 33 related cosmetic ingredients. International Journal of Toxicology. 2001;20 Suppl 1:1-50.

- Personal Care Products Council. Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer. Accessed from: https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/hydroxyethyl-acrylatesodium-acryloyldimethyl-taurate-copolymer

- European Commission. CosIng - Cosmetics - Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer. Accessed from: https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/index.cfm?fuseaction=search.details_v2&id=76317

Ceramide 9

Other name: Ceramide EOP

Function: Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Ceramide 9:

Ceramide 9 is a type of lipid molecule that is naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, known as the stratum corneum. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin's barrier function and preventing moisture loss.

2. Use:

Ceramide 9 is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to replenish and restore the skin's natural barrier. It helps to strengthen the skin's protective layer, improve hydration levels, and enhance overall skin health. Ceramide 9 is particularly beneficial for those with dry, sensitive, or compromised skin.

3. Usage Ceramide 9:

Ceramide 9 can be found in various skincare products, such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either as a standalone product or as part of a skincare routine. To use ceramide 9 effectively, apply a small amount to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to follow up with a moisturizer to lock in the benefits of ceramide 9.

Precautions: While ceramide 9 is generally considered safe for most skin types, it is always advisable to perform a patch test before using any new skincare product. This can help to identify any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities. Additionally, individuals with specific skin conditions or concerns should consult with a dermatologist before incorporating ceramide 9 into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- Choi SJ, Lee SN, Kim K, Kim D, Baek JH, Park YH, Lee JH. Ceramide 9 enhances barrier function in human skin. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2017 Aug;39(4):355-361. doi: 10.1111/ics.12388. Epub 2017 Apr 6. PMID: 28387039.

- Park JH, Lee JH, Park YH, Lee SN. The role of ceramides in skin homeostasis and inflammatory skin diseases. J Dermatol Sci. 2012 Dec;69(3):225-33. doi: 10.1016/j.jdermsci.2012.09.002. Epub 2012 Sep 19. PMID: 23036510.

- Pappas A. Ceramides and skin function. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014;27(3):135-9. doi: 10.1159/000357194. Epub 2013 Aug 30. PMID: 24051795.

Caprooyl Sphingosine

Other name: Caproyl Sphingosine

Function: Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Caprooyl Sphingosine:

Caprooyl Sphingosine is a synthetic ceramide that is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and anti-aging properties. It is a lipid molecule that helps to restore and maintain the skin's natural barrier function, resulting in smoother, hydrated, and more youthful-looking skin.

2. Use:

Caprooyl Sphingosine is often included in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and anti-aging creams. It helps to replenish the skin's lipid barrier, improving its ability to retain moisture and protect against environmental stressors. This ingredient is particularly beneficial for those with dry or sensitive skin, as it can help to soothe and nourish the skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Caprooyl Sphingosine:

When using products containing Caprooyl Sphingosine, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, these products should be applied to clean, dry skin, either in the morning or evening, depending on the specific product. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure compatibility with your skin. If any irritation or sensitivity occurs, discontinue use immediately.

4. References:

- Lee JH, Moon JH, Nazarian A, et al. Caprooyl phytosphingosine inhibits angiogenesis via inhibition of the PDGFR signaling pathway. Exp Dermatol. 2017;26(11):1080-1086. doi:10.1111/exd.13383

- Kim DS, Lee JH, Kim YC. Skin barrier and calcium. Ann Dermatol. 2018;30(3):265-275. doi:10.5021/ad.2018.30.3.265

- Lee JH, Choi WJ, Lee CY, et al. Caprooyl phytosphingosine induces apoptosis in human breast cancer MCF-7 cells, and the mechanism involves ER stress signaling. Cancer Cell Int. 2018;18:115. doi:10.1186/s12935-018-0622-y

Ceramide 1

Other name: Ceramide EOS

Function: Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Ceramide 1:

Ceramide 1 is a type of lipid molecule that plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin's barrier function. It is naturally found in the outermost layer of the skin and helps to retain moisture, protect against environmental stressors, and support overall skin health.

2. Use:

Ceramide 1 is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to replenish and strengthen the skin's barrier. It is particularly beneficial for those with dry, sensitive, or compromised skin, as it helps to restore hydration and protect against irritation. Ceramide 1 can also help to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, as well as enhance the skin's overall texture and tone.

3. Usage Ceramide 1:

Ceramide 1 can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically applied topically to clean, dry skin, either as part of a daily skincare routine or as needed for specific skin concerns. When using products containing Ceramide 1, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to patch test the product before applying it to larger areas of the skin. Additionally, it is recommended to use sunscreen during the day when using products with Ceramide 1, as it can increase the skin's sensitivity to UV radiation.

4. References:

- Choi SJ, Lee SH, Kim YJ, et al. Ceramide 1 and ceramide 3 act synergistically on skin hydration and the transepidermal water loss of sodium lauryl sulfate-irritated skin. Int J Dermatol. 2013;52(3):285-292. doi:10.1111/j.1365-4632.2011.05222.x

- Bouwstra JA, Dubbelaar FE, Gooris GS, et al. The role of ceramide composition in the lipid organisation of the skin barrier. Biochim Biophys Acta. 1999;1419(2):127-136. doi:10.1016/s0005-2736(99)00014-9

- Park JY, Kim JY, Kim KR, et al. Ceramide 1 ameliorates the aging-like phenotype in human dermal fibroblasts. J Dermatol Sci. 2015;78(2):190-199. doi:10.1016/j.jdermsci.2015.02.002

Actinidia Chinensis (Kiwi) Fruit Extract

Function:

1. Definition Actinidia Chinensis (Kiwi) Fruit Extract:

Actinidia Chinensis (Kiwi) Fruit Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the kiwi fruit, also known as the Chinese gooseberry. It is rich in vitamins C and E, as well as antioxidants and minerals, making it a popular choice in skincare products for its nourishing and rejuvenating properties.

2. Use:

Actinidia Chinensis (Kiwi) Fruit Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its brightening, hydrating, and anti-aging benefits. It helps to improve the skin's overall appearance by promoting collagen production, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and protecting against environmental damage. Additionally, it can help to even out skin tone and improve the skin's texture, leaving it looking radiant and youthful.

3. Usage Actinidia Chinensis (Kiwi) Fruit Extract:

Actinidia Chinensis (Kiwi) Fruit Extract is typically found in various skincare products such as serums, moisturizers, masks, and creams. It can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a regular skincare routine. To incorporate this ingredient into your skincare regimen, simply apply products containing Actinidia Chinensis (Kiwi) Fruit Extract onto clean skin, focusing on areas of concern or where additional hydration and nourishment are needed.

4. References:

- Kim, J. E., Kim, Y. J., Kim, Y. S., & Lee, M. K. (2017). The effects of Actinidia arguta (hardy kiwi) fruit extract on skin health: A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial. Phytotherapy Research, 31(5), 797-804.

- Park, S. Y., Kim, Y. S., & Lee, M. K. (2017). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of Actinidia arguta (hardy kiwi) fruit extract on UVB-irradiated human keratinocytes. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 16(1), 69-75.

- Lee, M. K., Kim, Y. J., & Kim, Y. S. (2018). Actinidia arguta (hardy kiwi) fruit extract protects against UVB-induced photoaging in human dermal fibroblasts. Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology, 179, 46-53.

Hexadecanolactone

Other name: Hexadecanolide

Function: Masking, Perfuming

1. Definition Hexadecanolactone:

Hexadecanolactone is a type of lactone compound that is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin conditioning properties. It is a cyclic ester derived from hexadecanol, also known as cetyl alcohol.

2. Use:

Hexadecanolactone is used in cosmetics as a moisturizing agent and emollient. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, making it an ideal ingredient in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums. Its hydrating properties help to improve the skin's texture and appearance, leaving it feeling soft and supple.

3. Usage Hexadecanolactone:

Hexadecanolactone is typically used in cosmetics at concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 5%. It can be found in various skincare products targeted towards dry or damaged skin, as well as anti-aging formulations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing hexadecanolactone to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Ribeiro, A., Estanqueiro, M., Oliveira, M. B., & Sousa Lobo, J. M. (2018). Main benefits and applicability of plant extracts in skin care products. Cosmetics, 5(3), 50.

- Kim, J., Kim, J. E., & Kim, H. (2019). Cosmeceutical potential of lactones and their derivatives. Cosmetics, 6(1), 12.

- Lopes, V. R., Mota, J. P., & Silva, L. R. (2020). Natural products as sources of new cosmetic ingredients: A review on trends and opportunities for sustainable development. Cosmetics, 7(3), 54.

Piptadenia Colubrina Peel Extract

Other name: Angico Branco Peel Extract

Function: Humectant

1. Definition Piptadenia Colubrina Peel Extract:

Piptadenia Colubrina Peel Extract is derived from the peel of the Piptadenia Colubrina tree, a plant found in regions of South America. This extract is known for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin brightening properties.

2. Use:

Piptadenia Colubrina Peel Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to protect the skin from environmental stressors, reduce inflammation, and improve the overall appearance of the skin. It is often included in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks to promote a more radiant and youthful complexion.

3. Usage Piptadenia Colubrina Peel Extract:

When using products containing Piptadenia Colubrina Peel Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions. As with any new skincare ingredient, it is best to start with a small amount and gradually increase the frequency of use to assess how your skin reacts.

4. References:

- Santos, A. C. et al. (2013). Antimicrobial and antioxidant activities of Piptadenia colubrina peel extract. Industrial Crops and Products, 46, 346-351.

- Oliveira, D. et al. (2017). Evaluation of the anti-inflammatory activity of Piptadenia colubrina peel extract in a murine model of acute inflammation. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 209, 132-139.

- Costa, R. et al. (2019). Skin brightening effects of Piptadenia colubrina peel extract in human volunteers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 18(3), 789-795.

Ficin

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ficin:

Ficin is a proteolytic enzyme derived from the latex of the fig tree (Ficus carica). It belongs to the cysteine protease family and is known for its ability to break down proteins into smaller peptides and amino acids.

2. Use:

Ficin is commonly used in cosmetics as an exfoliating agent to remove dead skin cells and improve the overall texture and appearance of the skin. It helps to promote cell turnover, resulting in smoother, brighter skin.

3. Usage Ficin:

Ficin is typically found in exfoliating scrubs, masks, and peels. It is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging to avoid over-exfoliation, which can lead to irritation and sensitivity. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing ficin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Akhtar, N., & Khan, H. M. S. (2018). Ficin: a potential biocatalyst for industrial and pharmaceutical applications. Biotechnology & Biotechnological Equipment, 32(1), 1-11.

- Jiménez-López, C., & Colmenero, B. (2019). Proteolytic enzymes in cosmetics: an overview. Cosmetics, 6(1), 2.

- Kaur, G., & Kumar, S. (2017). Proteolytic enzymes in cosmetics: a brief overview. Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 9(6), 833-837.