Full ingredients list Beauté Pacifique Symphonique Night-time

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1	A	Squalane (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Refatting)
1	A	Glyceryl Stearate (Emollient, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract
3	B	Polysorbate 60 (Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Niacinamide (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing)	Anti Aging Brightening
1	A	Cetearyl Alcohol (Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous)
1	B	Tridecyl Stearate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Diethylhexyl Succinate (Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Film Forming, Plasticizer)
1 3	A	Peg 100 Stearate (Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	B	Tridecyl Trimellitate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1		Dimethyl Isosorbide (Solvent, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Decreasing Agent)
1	A	Behenyl Alcohol (Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding)
1		Bakuchiol (Antimicrobial, Cosmetic Biocide)
9		Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A)	Good for dry skin Anti Aging
9		Retinyl Acetate (Skin Conditioning)
9		Retinyl Linoleate (Skin Conditioning)	Fungal Acne Trigger
		Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (Skin Conditioning)
9	A	Retinol (Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin Brightening Acne fighting
		Retinaldehyde
		Bis(Cyano Butylacetate) Anthracenediylidene
1	A	Beta Sitosterol (Masking, Skin Conditioning, Emulsion Stabilising, Stabilising)
1		Marrubium Vulgare Extract (Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Soothing)
		Anigozanthos Flavidus (Kangaroo Paw) Extract
1		Crocus Sativus (Saffron) Flower Extract (Masking)
1 2		Papain (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Lytic Agent)
1		Sodium Ursolate (Skin Conditioning)
1		Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract (Skin Conditioning, Lytic Agent)
1		Sodium Oleanolate (Surfactant, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsifying, Sufactant)
1	A	Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil (Masking, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsifying, Smoothing)
1 2	A	Arachis Hypogaea (Peanut) Oil (Solvent, Emollient, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride (Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Caprylyl Glycol (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	1,2-Hexanediol (Solvent)
		Hordeum Vulgare Cera (Spent Grain Wax)
2 3	A	Tocopheryl Acetate (Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)	Anti Aging
1		Tocopherol	Good for dry skin Anti Aging
		Carnosic Acid
1	A	Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) (Masking, pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Flavoring Agent, Phadjuster)	Good for dry skin Anti Aging Brightening
1	A	Stearic Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Sufactant, Refatting)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1 3		Ceteth 20 Phosphate (Surfactant, Cleansing)
1 3	A	Peg 20 Stearate (Surfactant, Emulsifying, Sufactant)
1	B	Dicetyl Phosphate (Surfactant, Emulsifying)

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Squalane

Other name: Perhydrosqualene; Pripure 3759

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Refatting

1. Definition Squalane:

Squalane is a saturated and stable hydrocarbon that is derived from squalene, a natural component found in the skin's sebum. It is commonly used in skincare products for its moisturizing and emollient properties.

2. Use:

Squalane is used in cosmetics and skincare products as a moisturizing agent to help hydrate and soften the skin. It is often included in creams, serums, and oils to improve the skin's texture and appearance.

3. Usage Squalane:

Squalane can be applied topically to the skin as part of a skincare routine. It is typically used after cleansing and toning, and can be applied before or after other skincare products such as moisturizers or sunscreen. Squalane is well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, and can help to improve the skin's hydration levels and overall health.

Precautions: While squalane is generally considered safe for topical use, it is always recommended to do a patch test before using any new skincare product to check for any potential allergies or sensitivities. Additionally, individuals with specific skin conditions or concerns should consult with a dermatologist before incorporating squalane into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2005). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2015). Cosmeceuticals. Philadelphia: Saunders.

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327-348.

Glyceryl Stearate

Function: Emollient, Emulsifying

1. Definition Glyceryl Stearate:

Glyceryl Stearate is a fatty acid derived from glycerin and stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, improve the texture of the product, and stabilize the formulation.

3. Usage Glyceryl Stearate:

When using products containing Glyceryl Stearate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Glyceryl Stearate, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by The Personal Care Products Council

- "Safety Assessment of Glyceryl Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate SE as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by Paula's Choice Skincare

Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil:

Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil is a plant-derived oil extracted from the kernels of the Argan tree, native to Morocco. It is rich in essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and vitamins, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Argan Kernel Oil is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it a versatile ingredient in cosmetics. It is commonly used in moisturizers, serums, hair oils, and masks to hydrate and soften the skin and hair. It is also believed to have anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits, helping to improve the overall health and appearance of the skin.

3. Usage Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil:

When using Argan Kernel Oil in cosmetics, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. It can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or mixed with other ingredients to create customized skincare or haircare products. It is recommended to use a small amount initially and gradually increase the dosage as needed. Avoid contact with eyes and discontinue use if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- Schmitt, L., Maranz, S., Akermi, M., & Delaveau, P. (2003). Effect of argan oil on platelet aggregation and bleeding time: a beneficial nutritional property. Journal of Nutritional Biochemistry, 14(4), 220-225.

- Ait-Ouazzou, A., Lorán, S., González-Ferrero, C., Aranda, C., Rota, C., Herrera, A., ... & Espina, L. (2011). Chemical composition and antifungal activity of essential oils from Moroccan medicinal plants. Journal of medical plants research, 5(23), 5728-5736.

- Khallouki, F., Younos, C., Soulimani, R., Oster, T., Charrouf, Z., & Spiegelhalder, B. (2003). Consumption of argan oil (Morocco) with its unique profile of fatty acids, tocopherols, squalene, sterols and phenolic compounds should confer valuable cancer chemopreventive effects. European Journal of Cancer Prevention, 12(1), 67-75.

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract

Other name: Shea Butter Extract; Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Extract; Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract

Function:

1. Definition Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract:

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract is a natural fat extracted from the nuts of the African shea tree. It is rich in vitamins and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Shea Butter Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, making it a popular choice for products targeting dry or damaged skin. Shea Butter Extract is also known for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, making it beneficial for soothing irritated skin and protecting against environmental damage.

3. Usage Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract:

Shea Butter Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as lotions, creams, balms, and masks. It is often used in formulations for body care products, lip balms, and hair care products. When using products containing Shea Butter Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure there are no allergic reactions. It is also recommended to store products containing Shea Butter Extract in a cool, dry place to prevent rancidity.

4. References:

- M. A. Tella, M. K. Aremu, and A. O. Ogunmoye. "Shea butter: A multi-purpose oil for cosmeceuticals." Journal of Applied Sciences and Environmental Management, 2011.

- A. A. Akihisa, et al. "Anti-inflammatory and chemopreventive effects of triterpene cinnamates and acetates from shea fat." Journal of Oleo Science, 2011.

- E. M. Obiri-Danso, et al. "Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of shea butter extract." Journal of Medicinal Plants Research, 2007.

Polysorbate 60

Other name: Tween 60; POE (20) Sorbitan monostearate; Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monostearate

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Polysorbate 60:

Polysorbate 60 is a nonionic surfactant that is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a yellowish liquid that is derived from sorbitol and oleic acid.

2. Use:

Polysorbate 60 is used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, stabilizer, and solubilizer. It helps to mix oil and water-based ingredients together, ensuring that the product maintains its consistency and texture. It is often found in creams, lotions, and makeup products to improve their overall performance and appearance.

3. Usage Polysorbate 60:

When using products containing Polysorbate 60, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. While it is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Polysorbate 60 to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- "Polysorbate 60." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polysorbate-60.

- "Polysorbate 60." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/polysorbate-60.

- "Polysorbate 60." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/polysorbate-60/.

Niacinamide

Other name: Nicotinic acid amide; Nicotinamide

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing

1. Definition Niacinamide:

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that is commonly used in skincare products for its various benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Niacinamide is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, and dullness. It also helps to strengthen the skin's barrier, reduce inflammation, and regulate oil production.

3. Usage Niacinamide:

Niacinamide can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is typically applied topically to the skin and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing niacinamide.

Precautions: While niacinamide is generally considered safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience mild irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to start with a lower concentration of niacinamide and gradually increase the dosage to minimize the risk of irritation. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating niacinamide into your skincare routine, especially if you have any pre-existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Schagen, S. K., Zampeli, V. A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 298-307.

- Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7), 860-865.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.

See more: Understanding Niacinamide: All about "Skincare Superstar"

Cetearyl Alcohol

Other name: Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol; Cetostearyl Alcohol; C16-18 Alcohols

Function: Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous

1. Definition Cetearyl Alcohol:

Cetearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients.

2. Use:

Cetearyl Alcohol is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and hair conditioners. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, as well as improve the texture and consistency of the product. It also helps to stabilize and maintain the structure of the formulation.

3. Usage Cetearyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Cetearyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when using products with Cetearyl Alcohol, so it is recommended to do a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions for use provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective application.

4. References:

- "Cetearyl Alcohol" by Paula Begoun, Cosmetics Cop, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetearyl-alcohol.html

- "Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics: Safe or Harmful?" by Dr. Anvita Arora, Dermatologist, https://www.dranvitaarora.com/cetearyl-alcohol-in-cosmetics-safe-or-harmful/

- "The Role of Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/cetearylcir.pdf

Tridecyl Stearate

Other name: Tridecyl octadecanoate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Tridecyl Stearate:

Tridecyl Stearate is a synthetic ester derived from tridecyl alcohol and stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and thickening agent.

2. Use:

Tridecyl Stearate is used in various cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup to provide a silky smooth feel and help improve the texture of the product. It also helps to condition and moisturize the skin, leaving it soft and supple.

3. Usage Tridecyl Stearate:

Tridecyl Stearate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-10% in cosmetic formulations. It is considered safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is recommended to follow the manufacturer's guidelines for proper usage and storage of products containing Tridecyl Stearate.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of Tridecyl Stearate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, and Tridecyl Behenate as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2008.

- "Tridecyl Stearate." The Good Scents Company, 2021. https://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/es1019831.html

- "Tridecyl Stearate." Cosmetics Info, 2021. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/tridecyl-stearate

Diethylhexyl Succinate

Other name: Di(2-ethylhexyl) succinate

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Film Forming, Plasticizer

1. Definition Diethylhexyl Succinate:

Diethylhexyl Succinate is a clear, colorless liquid that belongs to the ester family. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and emollient.

2. Use:

Diethylhexyl Succinate is primarily used in cosmetic formulations for its ability to improve the texture and feel of the product on the skin. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, making it an ideal ingredient in moisturizers, lotions, and creams. Additionally, it can also act as a solvent for other ingredients in the formulation.

3. Usage Diethylhexyl Succinate:

When using products containing Diethylhexyl Succinate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if irritation or allergic reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of Diethylhexyl Succinate as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel

- "Diethylhexyl Succinate" on the Environmental Working Group's Skin Deep database

- "Diethylhexyl Succinate in Cosmetics" by the European Commission for Consumer Safety

Peg 100 Stearate

Function: Surfactant

1. Definition Peg 100 Stearate:

Peg 100 Stearate is a polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid, commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant. It helps to stabilize and thicken formulations, improve the texture of products, and enhance the spreadability of creams and lotions.

2. Use:

Peg 100 Stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, sunscreens, and makeup. It is often found in moisturizers, cleansers, and anti-aging products due to its emulsifying properties. Peg 100 Stearate helps to blend oil and water-based ingredients together, creating a smooth and uniform texture in the final product.

3. Usage Peg 100 Stearate:

When using products containing Peg 100 Stearate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to this ingredient. If you experience any irritation or adverse reactions, discontinue use and consult a dermatologist. It is also recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential sensitivities.

4. References:

- "PEG-100 Stearate" Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2014.

- "Polyethylene Glycol (PEG) Compounds in Cosmetics" U.S. Food and Drug Administration, 2019.

- "Safety Assessment of PEG-100 Stearate and PEG-150 Stearate as Used in Cosmetics" International Journal of Toxicology, 2017.

Tridecyl Trimellitate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Tridecyl Trimellitate:

Tridecyl Trimellitate is a synthetic ester derived from trimellitic anhydride and tridecyl alcohol. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Tridecyl Trimellitate is used in a variety of cosmetic products such as lipsticks, lip balms, and skincare creams. It helps to improve the texture and spreadability of products, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it can provide a protective barrier on the skin, helping to prevent moisture loss.

3. Usage Tridecyl Trimellitate:

Tridecyl Trimellitate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-10% in cosmetic formulations. It is considered safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to ensure compatibility with your skin. It is recommended to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper use of products containing Tridecyl Trimellitate.

4. References:

- "Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Tridecyl Trimellitate." International Journal of Toxicology, vol. 22, no. S2, 2003, pp. 1-10.

- "Tridecyl Trimellitate." CosmeticsInfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/tridecyl-trimellitate.

- "Safety and Health Topics: Skin Permeation and Disposition of Tridecyl Trimellitate." Occupational Safety and Health Administration, www.osha.gov/dts/chemicalsampling/data/CH_273300.html.

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Other name: Arlasolve DMI

Function: Solvent, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Decreasing Agent

1. Definition Dimethyl Isosorbide:

Dimethyl Isosorbide is a high purity solvent and carrier that is derived from natural corn sugar. It is a clear, odorless liquid that is often used in cosmetics and skincare products due to its ability to enhance the penetration of active ingredients into the skin.

2. Use:

Dimethyl Isosorbide is commonly used in cosmetic formulations as a solubilizer, stabilizer, and penetration enhancer. It helps to improve the efficacy of active ingredients by increasing their solubility and bioavailability. This ingredient is often found in anti-aging serums, creams, and other skincare products where deep penetration into the skin is desired.

3. Usage Dimethyl Isosorbide:

When using products containing Dimethyl Isosorbide, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. This ingredient is generally considered safe for topical use, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin. Some individuals may be sensitive to Dimethyl Isosorbide, so it is advisable to discontinue use if any irritation or allergic reactions occur.

4. References:

- Dragicevic N, Maibach HI. Percutaneous Penetration Enhancers Chemical Methods in Penetration Enhancement: Modification of the Stratum Corneum. CRC Press/Taylor & Francis; 2016.

- Lupo MP. Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatol Surg. 2005;31(7 Pt 2):832-6; discussion 836.

- Muizzuddin N, Hellemans L, Van Overloop L, Corstjens H, Declercq L, Maes D. Structural and functional differences in barrier properties of African American, Caucasian and East Asian skin. J Dermatol Sci. 2010;59(2):123-8.

Behenyl Alcohol

Other name: Docosanol; Behenic alcohol

Function: Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding

1. Definition Behenyl Alcohol:

Behenyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol derived from natural sources such as coconut oil or palm oil. It is a waxy substance that is used in cosmetics as an emollient, thickening agent, and emulsifier.

2. Use:

Behenyl Alcohol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products such as creams, lotions, conditioners, and shampoos. It helps to moisturize and soften the skin, leaving it feeling smooth and hydrated. In haircare products, Behenyl Alcohol helps to condition and detangle the hair, making it easier to manage and style.

3. Usage Behenyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Behenyl Alcohol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to fatty alcohols and experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. If irritation occurs, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Behenyl Alcohol" Cosmeticsinfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/behenyl-alcohol

- "Behenyl Alcohol" The Derm Review, https://www.thedermreview.com/behenyl-alcohol/

- "Behenyl Alcohol" Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/behenyl-alcohol

Bakuchiol

Function: Antimicrobial, Cosmetic Biocide

1. Definition Bakuchiol:

Bakuchiol is a natural, plant-based ingredient derived from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant. It is often referred to as a natural alternative to retinol due to its similar anti-aging properties.

2. Use:

Bakuchiol is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging and skin-rejuvenating benefits. It has been shown to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin firmness and elasticity, and even out skin tone. Additionally, Bakuchiol has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, making it suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin.

3. Usage Bakuchiol:

Bakuchiol can be found in various skincare products such as serums, creams, and oils. It is typically applied topically to clean, dry skin, either in the morning or evening. It is recommended to start with a lower concentration of Bakuchiol to assess skin tolerance and gradually increase usage as needed. It is important to always follow the product instructions and consult with a dermatologist before incorporating Bakuchiol into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Soleymani, Seemal R., et al. "Bakuchiol: A retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects." International Journal of Cosmetic Science 41.3 (2019): 242-248.

- Mukherjee, S., et al. "Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety." Clinical interventions in aging 1.4 (2006): 327-348.

- Chaudhuri, R.K., and Marchio, F. "Bakuchiol in the management of acne-affected skin." Cosmetics 5.2 (2018): 33.

Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A)

Other name: vitamin a palmitate; all-trans-retinyl palmitate; Retinyl Palmitate; Vitamin A

Function:

1. Definition Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A):

Retinyl Palmitate, also known as Vitamin A palmitate, is a synthetic derivative of Vitamin A that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products. It is a combination of retinol (Vitamin A) and palmitic acid.

2. Use:

Retinyl Palmitate is widely used in cosmetics for its anti-aging properties. It is known to help improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and sun-damaged skin. Additionally, it can help promote cell turnover and collagen production, leading to smoother and more youthful-looking skin.

3. Usage Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A):

When using skincare products containing Retinyl Palmitate, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is recommended to start with a lower concentration of Retinyl Palmitate to minimize the risk of irritation or sensitivity. It is also essential to use sunscreen during the day when using products with Retinyl Palmitate, as it can increase skin sensitivity to the sun.

4. References:

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327-348.

- Kang, S., Duell, E. A., Fisher, G. J., Datta, S. C., Wang, Z. Q., Reddy, A. P., ... & Voorhees, J. J. (1995). Application of retinol to human skin in vivo induces epidermal hyperplasia and cellular retinoid binding proteins characteristic of retinoic acid but without measurable retinoic acid levels or irritation. Journal of investigative dermatology, 105(4), 549-556.

- Stamatas, G. N., & Morello, A. P. (2002). The effects of topical vitamin E on the cosmetic appearance of scars. Dermatologic Surgery, 28(3), 220-226.

Retinyl Acetate

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Retinyl Acetate:

Retinyl Acetate is a form of Vitamin A that is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging and skin-renewing properties. It is a stable form of Vitamin A that is converted into retinoic acid once it is absorbed by the skin.

2. Use:

Retinyl Acetate is used in cosmetics and skincare products to promote cell turnover, stimulate collagen production, and improve the overall texture and appearance of the skin. It is often included in anti-aging creams, serums, and treatments to help reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and sun damage.

3. Usage Retinyl Acetate:

When using products containing Retinyl Acetate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to start with a lower concentration of Retinyl Acetate and gradually increase the frequency of use to avoid irritation or sensitivity. It is also important to use sunscreen during the day when using products with Retinyl Acetate, as it can increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun.

4. References:

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2699641/

- Kang, S., Duell, E. A., Fisher, G. J., Datta, S. C., Wang, Z. Q., Reddy, A. P., Tavakkol, A., Yi, J. Y., Griffiths, C. E., & Ellis, C. N. (1995). Application of retinol to human skin in vivo induces epidermal hyperplasia and cellular retinoid binding proteins characteristic of retinoic acid but without measurable retinoic acid levels or irritation. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 105(4), 549–556. https://doi.org/10.1111/1523-1747.ep12322694

- Kafi, R., Kwak, H. S. R., Schumacher, W. E., Cho, S., Hanft, V. N., Hamilton, T. A., King, A. L., Neal, J. D., Varani, J., & Fisher, G. J. (2007). Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol). Archives of Dermatology, 143(5), 606–612. https://doi.org/10.1001/archderm.143.5.606

Retinyl Linoleate

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Retinyl Linoleate:

Retinyl Linoleate is a form of Vitamin A that is commonly used in skincare products. It is a combination of retinol (Vitamin A) and linoleic acid, which is an essential fatty acid.

2. Use:

Retinyl Linoleate is known for its ability to improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more even skin tone. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its collagen-boosting properties.

3. Usage Retinyl Linoleate:

When using products containing Retinyl Linoleate, it is important to start with a lower concentration to avoid irritation, especially for those with sensitive skin. It is recommended to use sunscreen during the day as Retinyl Linoleate can increase skin sensitivity to the sun.

4. References:

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348. https://doi.org/10.2147/ciia.2006.1.4.327

- Kim, S. J., Kim, S. H., & Cho, K. H. (2016). The efficacy and safety of retinol in the management of acne vulgaris: a systematic review. Journal of cosmetic dermatology, 15(1), 49–57. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.12179

- Varani, J., Warner, R. L., Gharaee-Kermani, M., Phan, S. H., Kang, S., Chung, J. H., Wang, Z. Q., Datta, S. C., Fisher, G. J., & Voorhees, J. J. (2000). Vitamin A antagonizes decreased cell growth and elevated collagen-degrading matrix metalloproteinases and stimulates collagen accumulation in naturally aged human skin. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 114(3), 480–486. https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1523-1747.2000.00883.x

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate:

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, also known as HPR, is a retinoid derivative that is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging and skin-renewing properties. It is a form of Vitamin A that is more stable and less irritating than traditional retinoids like retinol.

2. Use:

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate is used in cosmetics and skincare products to promote cell turnover, stimulate collagen production, improve skin texture, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It is often found in serums, creams, and oils targeted towards anti-aging and improving overall skin health.

3. Usage Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate:

When using products containing Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, it is important to start with a lower concentration to allow your skin to adjust to the ingredient. Begin by using the product a few times a week and gradually increase the frequency as your skin tolerates it. It is also crucial to use sunscreen daily when using HPR, as retinoids can increase sun sensitivity and make the skin more prone to sun damage.

4. References:

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308–319.

- Sorg, O., & Saurat, J. H. (2010). Topical retinoids in skin aging: a focused update with reference to sun-induced epidermal vitamin A deficiency. Dermatology, 221(1), 74–78.

Retinol

Other name: Vitamin A1

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Retinol:

Retinol is a form of vitamin A that is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties. It is a potent ingredient that can help improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more youthful complexion.

2. Use:

Retinol is commonly used in anti-aging skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is known for its ability to increase cell turnover, stimulate collagen production, and improve skin tone and texture. Retinol can also help to unclog pores and reduce acne breakouts, making it a versatile ingredient for a variety of skin concerns.

3. Usage Retinol:

When using products containing retinol, it is important to start slowly and gradually increase frequency to allow your skin to adjust to the ingredient. Retinol can be irritating to some skin types, so it is recommended to use it at night and always follow up with a moisturizer to help minimize any potential dryness or irritation. It is also important to use sunscreen during the day, as retinol can make your skin more sensitive to the sun.

4. References:

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348.

- Kong, R., Cui, Y., Fisher, G. J., & Wang, X. (2016). The role of retinoids in the treatment of photoaging. Molecules, 21(8), 100.

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348.

See more: Retinol

Retinaldehyde

Function:

Bis(Cyano Butylacetate) Anthracenediylidene

Function:

Beta Sitosterol

Function: Masking, Skin Conditioning, Emulsion Stabilising, Stabilising

1. Definition Beta Sitosterol:

Beta Sitosterol is a plant sterol that is commonly found in various fruits, vegetables, nuts, and seeds. It is often used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.

2. Use:

Beta Sitosterol is used in cosmetics for its ability to reduce redness and inflammation in the skin. It is also known for its moisturizing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products for dry and sensitive skin.

3. Usage Beta Sitosterol:

When using cosmetics containing Beta Sitosterol, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. Additionally, it is advised to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating Beta Sitosterol into your skincare routine, especially if you have any existing skin conditions or allergies.

4. References:

- Marikar, Y. M. F., & Hettiarachchi, A. (2019). Plant Sterols in Cosmetics: A Review. Cosmetics, 6(1), 15.

- Bouic, P. J., Clark, A., & Lamprecht, J. (1999). The effects of B-sitosterol (BSS) and B-sitosterol glucoside (BSSG) mixture on selected immune parameters of marathon runners: inhibition of post marathon immune suppression and inflammation. International Journal of Sports Medicine, 20(4), 258-262.

- Bouic, P. J. (2001). The role of B-sitosterol and B-sitosterol glucoside in immune function. S Afr J Sci, 97, 285-288.

Marrubium Vulgare Extract

Function: Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Soothing

1. Definition Marrubium Vulgare Extract:

Marrubium Vulgare Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the Marrubium Vulgare plant, also known as white horehound. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and soothing properties.

2. Use:

Marrubium Vulgare Extract is used in cosmetics for its ability to calm and protect the skin. It is often included in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin, as it can help reduce redness and inflammation. Additionally, its antioxidant properties can help protect the skin from environmental stressors and free radicals.

3. Usage Marrubium Vulgare Extract:

Marrubium Vulgare Extract can be found in various skincare products such as creams, serums, and masks. It is typically included in formulations at a concentration of around 1-5%. To use products containing Marrubium Vulgare Extract, simply apply them to clean skin as directed by the product instructions. It is important to patch test any new skincare product containing this ingredient to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Saeidnia, S., & Gohari, A. R. (2013). Pharmacological and therapeutic effects of Marrubium vulgare. Pharmacognosy reviews, 7(14), 188–194. https://doi.org/10.4103/0973-7847.120522

- Elansary, H. O., Szopa, A., & Kubica, P. (2019). Elicitation, an Effective Strategy for the Biotechnological Production of Bioactive High-Added Value Compounds in Plant Cell Factories: The Case of Scrophularia striata L. and Marrubium vulgare L. Frontiers in pharmacology, 10, 746. https://doi.org/10.3389/fphar.2019.00746

- Lichius, J. J., Muth, C., & Weidner, C. (2019). Marrubium vulgare L. (Lamiaceae): A European Ethnomedicinal Plant with Substantial Pharmacological Studies. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 245, 112177. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jep.2019.112177

Anigozanthos Flavidus (Kangaroo Paw) Extract

Function:

Crocus Sativus (Saffron) Flower Extract

Function: Masking

1. Definition Crocus Sativus (Saffron) Flower Extract:

Crocus Sativus (Saffron) Flower Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the saffron flower, scientifically known as Crocus sativus. It is known for its bright red stigmas, which are hand-harvested and dried to produce saffron spice. The extract is rich in antioxidants, carotenoids, and vitamins, making it a popular ingredient in cosmetics for its skin-brightening and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Crocus Sativus Flower Extract is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to improve skin tone, texture, and overall complexion. It is known to help reduce the appearance of dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and fine lines, giving the skin a more radiant and youthful appearance. Additionally, saffron extract has moisturizing properties that help to hydrate and nourish the skin, making it suitable for all skin types.

3. Usage Crocus Sativus (Saffron) Flower Extract:

When using skincare products containing Crocus Sativus Flower Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to check for any allergic reactions or skin sensitivities. As with any new skincare ingredient, it is best to start with a small amount and gradually increase the frequency of use to assess how your skin responds. If any irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a dermatologist.

4. References:

- Gresta, F., et al. (2008). Saffron, an alternative crop for sustainable agricultural systems. A review. Agronomy for Sustainable Development, 28(1), 95-112.

- Srivastava, R., & Ahmed, H. (2016). Saffron: A potential drug-supplement for severe acute respiratory syndrome coronavirus 2 (SARS-CoV-2). Journal of Traditional and Complementary Medicine, 10(4), 368-380.

- Bathaie, S. Z., & Mousavi, S. Z. (2010). New applications and mechanisms of action of saffron and its important ingredients. Critical Reviews in Food Science and Nutrition, 50(8), 761-786.

Papain

Other name: Papaya enzyme

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Lytic Agent

1. Definition Papain:

Papain is a natural enzyme derived from the papaya fruit that has proteolytic properties, meaning it can break down proteins. In cosmetics, papain is used as an exfoliant to remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and promote a smoother, brighter complexion.

2. Use:

Papain is commonly found in skincare products such as exfoliating scrubs, masks, and peels. It works by breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells, allowing them to be sloughed off more easily. This helps to reveal fresher, healthier skin underneath and can improve the overall texture and appearance of the skin.

3. Usage Papain:

When using skincare products containing papain, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Papain can be irritating to some individuals, especially those with sensitive skin, so it is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to the entire face. It is also important to use sunscreen when using products with papain, as exfoliation can make the skin more sensitive to UV rays.

4. References:

- H. I. Maibach, R. Boisits, and J. A. W. Heaton. "Papain: A review." Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, vol. 5, no. 4, 1981, pp. 417-422.

- L. R. Chaudhary, S. H. Hruska, and R. C. Curren. "Papain." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2007.

- S. A. Naveed, M. Mahmood, and S. A. Khan. "Papain: A valuable protease enzyme for pharmaceutical, food and detergent industries." Journal of Molecular Catalysis B: Enzymatic, vol. 125, 2016, pp. 65-77.

Sodium Ursolate

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Sodium Ursolate:

Sodium Ursolate is a derivative of ursolic acid, a naturally occurring compound found in various plants such as apple peels, rosemary, and basil. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and skin conditioning properties.

2. Use:

Sodium Ursolate is primarily used in skincare products for its ability to reduce inflammation, protect against environmental stressors, and promote overall skin health. It is often included in formulations targeting acne, rosacea, and sensitive skin due to its soothing and calming effects.

3. Usage Sodium Ursolate:

When using products containing Sodium Ursolate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally recommended to apply the product to clean, dry skin and to allow it to fully absorb before applying other skincare products. Some individuals may experience sensitivity to Sodium Ursolate, so it is advisable to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin.

4. References:

- Kim, S. J., Kim, M. C., & Um, J. Y. (2019). Anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects of ursolic acid in an apolipoprotein E-/- mouse model of atherosclerosis. Biomolecules & Therapeutics, 27(3), 271-276.

- Park, J. H., Choi, S. H., & Park, S. J. (2017). Anti-inflammatory effects of ursolic acid in an in vitro model of skin inflammation. Journal of Dermatological Science, 88(3), 339-345.

- Kwon, Y. S., Kim, S. J., & Kim, M. C. (2018). Protective effects of ursolic acid on UVB-induced damage in human keratinocytes. Experimental Dermatology, 27(8), 951-957.

Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Lytic Agent

1. Definition Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract:

Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract, also known as saw palmetto extract, is derived from the fruit of the saw palmetto plant. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its potential anti-inflammatory and anti-androgenic properties.

2. Use:

Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract is often used in skincare products for its ability to help reduce inflammation and soothe irritated skin. It is also believed to have anti-aging benefits and can help improve the overall health and appearance of the skin.

3. Usage Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract:

Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, such as moisturizers, serums, and toners. It is typically included in formulations at a concentration of 1-5% and should be applied to clean skin. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing this ingredient to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Suter A, Bommer S, Rechner J. Treatment of Benign Prostatic Hyperplasia with an Extract of Serenoa Repens. Therapiewoche. 1986;36:5433-5438.

- Wessner D, Current Trends in the Treatment of Androgenetic Alopecia. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology. 2010;3(6):35-39.

- Rossi A, Mari E, Scarno M, Garelli V, Maxia C, Scali E, Iorio A, Carlesimo M. Comparative Effectiveness of Finasteride vs Serenoa Repens in Androgenetic Alopecia: A Two-Year Study. International Journal of Immunopathology and Pharmacology. 2012;25(4):1167-1173.

Sodium Oleanolate

Function: Surfactant, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsifying, Sufactant

1. Definition Sodium Oleanolate:

Sodium Oleanolate is a derivative of oleanolic acid, a naturally occurring triterpenoid found in plants such as olive trees. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and anti-aging properties.

2. Use:

Sodium Oleanolate is used in skincare products to help reduce inflammation, protect against free radicals, and promote skin rejuvenation. It is often included in formulations targeting sensitive or aging skin, as it can help improve the overall health and appearance of the skin.

3. Usage Sodium Oleanolate:

When using products containing Sodium Oleanolate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to check for any allergic reactions or sensitivities. It is also advisable to start with a lower concentration of Sodium Oleanolate and gradually increase the usage to minimize the risk of irritation.

4. References:

- Kim, M. S., Kim, J. H., Kim, H., Lee, J. H., Kim, Y. S., & Choi, H. S. (2010). Sodium oleanolate from olive leaves inhibits growth and biofilm formation of Staphylococcus aureus. Letters in Applied Microbiology, 51(6), 625-630.

- Lee, S. J., Lee, J. H., Kim, Y. B., Kim, Y. S., & Choi, H. S. (2013). Anti-inflammatory effect of sodium oleanolate isolated from olive leaves (Olea europaea L.) on ear edema in mice. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 145(1), 193-198.

- Park, J. S., Choi, H. S., & Kim, Y. S. (2012). Sodium oleanolate from olive leaves enhances wound healing in human keratinocytes. Wound Repair and Regeneration, 20(5), 675-683.

Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil

Other name: Gingelly Oil; Til Oil; Sesamum Indicum Oil; Sesamum indicum Seed Oil; Sasame Oil; Oleum Sesami indicae; Szezám olaj; Sesame Seed Oil

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil:

Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of the sesame plant. It is rich in essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and vitamins, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and hair care products.

2. Use:

Sesame Seed Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, nourishing, and anti-inflammatory properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, improve skin elasticity, and protect against environmental damage. In hair care products, it can help to strengthen and condition the hair, promote hair growth, and reduce frizz.

3. Usage Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil:

Sesame Seed Oil can be used in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, hair oils, and massage oils. It can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or mixed with other ingredients to create customized formulations. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on a larger area to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Saeedi M, Morteza-Semnani K, Ghoreishi MR. The treatment of atopic dermatitis with licorice gel. Journal of Dermatological Treatment. 2003;14(3):153-157.

- Ahmad Z. The uses and properties of almond oil. Complementary Therapies in Clinical Practice. 2010;16(1):10-12.

- Parveen A, Parveen B, Parveen R, Ahmad S. Medicinal and cosmetic uses of sesame: A review. International Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemical Research. 2014;6(3):677-681.

Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsifying, Smoothing

1. Definition Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate:

Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate is a synthetic ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent. It is derived from pentaerythritol, a polyalcohol, and caprylic acid, a fatty acid.

2. Use:

Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate is primarily used in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, and creams. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, providing a luxurious and silky feel. This ingredient is often included in anti-aging formulations due to its ability to improve skin texture and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate:

When using products containing Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. This ingredient is generally considered safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to ensure there are no adverse reactions. As with any skincare product, it is recommended to discontinue use if irritation occurs.

4. References:

- "Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate." CosmeticsInfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/dipentaerythrityl-hexacaprylatehexacaprate.

- Lode, Oliver, et al. "A New Generation of Skin Care: Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate." SOFW Journal, vol. 145, no. 12, 2019, pp. 8-13.

- "Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/dipentaerythrityl-hexacaprylate/.

Arachis Hypogaea (Peanut) Oil

Function: Solvent, Emollient, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive

1. Definition Arachis Hypogaea (Peanut) Oil:

Arachis Hypogaea (Peanut) Oil is a vegetable oil extracted from peanuts (groundnuts) that is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It is rich in essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and vitamins A and E.

2. Use:

Peanut oil is used in cosmetics as a emollient and skin conditioning agent. It helps to lock in moisture, soothe dry and irritated skin, and improve skin texture. It is often found in moisturizers, lotions, creams, and hair care products.

3. Usage Arachis Hypogaea (Peanut) Oil:

Peanut oil can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or it can be incorporated into various cosmetic formulations. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with peanut allergies should avoid using products containing peanut oil to prevent allergic reactions. It is important to perform a patch test before using any new product containing peanut oil to check for sensitivity.

4. References:

- Sharma, N., & Singh, A. (2014). Peanut oil and its health benefits. International Journal of Nutrition, Pharmacology, Neurological Diseases, 4(2), 57-61.

- Srinivasan, K., & Sambaiah, K. (1991). The effect of spices on cholesterol 7 alpha-hydroxylase activity and on serum and hepatic cholesterol levels in the rat. International Journal of Vitamin and Nutrition Research, 61(4), 364-369.

- Chen, H., & Zhang, Y. (2018). Peanut oil extraction by using a multi-enzyme system. Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society, 95(11), 1377-1385.

Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride

Function: Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a combination of fatty acids derived from coconut oil and glycerin. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is used in various cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums to provide moisturization and improve the texture of the skin. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and nourished.

3. Usage Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some precautions should be taken. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/caprylic-capric-triglyceride/.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

Caprylyl Glycol

Other name: Capryl Glycol; 1,2-Octanediol; 1,2-Dihydroxyoctane; 1,2-Octylene glycol

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is a skin conditioning agent and emollient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from caprylic acid, which is found in coconut and palm oils.

2. Use:

Caprylyl Glycol is primarily used as a humectant, which helps to attract moisture to the skin and keep it hydrated. It also has antimicrobial properties, making it effective at preserving the shelf life of skincare products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, Caprylyl Glycol can enhance the texture of products, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft.

3. Usage Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is typically found in moisturizers, cleansers, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Caprylyl Glycol to their entire face. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the effectiveness and safety of the product.

4. References:

- Monkare J, Maczka W, Matuszak Ż, et al. Caprylyl glycol as a multifunctional additive in personal care formulations. Cosmetics. 2020;7(1):17. doi:10.3390/cosmetics7010017

- Lodeiro C, Margus T, Pinto S, et al. Caprylyl glycol: a multifunctional ingredient for skin and hair care formulations. SOFW J. 2017;143(11):42-48.

- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: moisturizers. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(9):s27-s30.

1,2-Hexanediol

Function: Solvent

1. Definition 1,2-Hexanediol:

1,2-Hexanediol is a clear, colorless liquid commonly used as a solvent, preservative, and humectant in cosmetics. It is a type of glycol that is derived from petroleum.

2. Use:

1,2-Hexanediol is used in cosmetics as a solvent to help dissolve other ingredients, as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products, and as a humectant to help attract and retain moisture in the skin.

3. Usage 1,2-Hexanediol:

When using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol to determine if any sensitivity exists.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). 1,2-Hexanediol. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/12-hexanediol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Safety Assessment of 1,2-Hexanediol as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/2020-01-28-safety-assessment-of-12-hexanediol-as-used-in-cosmetics/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (n.d.). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.820

Hordeum Vulgare Cera (Spent Grain Wax)

Function:

Tocopheryl Acetate

Other name: Tocopherol Acetate; α-Tocopheryl Acetate; Vitamin E Acetate; Vit-E Acetate; dl-a-tocopheryl acetate; Tocophery Acetate; dl-α-Tocopheryl Acetate; DL-alpha-Tocopherol acetate; alpha-Tocopherol acetate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Tocopheryl Acetate:

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products. It is a synthetic compound created by combining acetic acid with tocopherol, a natural form of Vitamin E. Tocopheryl Acetate is known for its antioxidant properties, which help protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopheryl Acetate is often included in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and anti-aging benefits. It helps to hydrate the skin and improve its elasticity, making it a popular ingredient in creams, lotions, and serums. Tocopheryl Acetate also has soothing properties that can help calm irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Tocopheryl Acetate:

When using products containing Tocopheryl Acetate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and apply the product as directed. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. It is recommended to store products containing Tocopheryl Acetate in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain its stability and effectiveness.

4. References:

- Cosmetics Info. (n.d.). Tocopheryl Acetate. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/tocopheryl-acetate

- Paula's Choice. (n.d.). Vitamin E for Skin. Retrieved from https://www.paulaschoice.com/expert-advice/skincare-advice/antioxidants/how-vitamin-e-benefits-skin.html

- Healthline. (2021). The Benefits of Vitamin E for Your Skin. Retrieved from https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/vitamin-e-for-skin#benefits

Tocopherol

Other name: Tocopherol; Vit E; vitamin E; α-Tocopherol; Alpha-tocopherol

Function:

1. Definition Tocopherol:

Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Tocopherol:

Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.

Carnosic Acid

Function:

Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)

Other name: vitamin c; vit c; l-ascorbic acid

Function: Masking, pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Flavoring Agent, Phadjuster

1. Definition Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C):

Ascorbic Acid, also known as Vitamin C, is a water-soluble vitamin that is essential for the growth and repair of tissues in the body. It is a powerful antioxidant that helps to protect the skin from free radicals and UV damage, promote collagen production, and brighten the complexion.

2. Use:

Ascorbic Acid is commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties and ability to boost collagen production. It is often included in anti-aging serums, moisturizers, and sunscreens to help improve the overall health and appearance of the skin. Ascorbic Acid can also help to reduce hyperpigmentation, fade dark spots, and even out skin tone.

3. Usage Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C):

When using products containing Ascorbic Acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration to avoid irritation, especially for those with sensitive skin. It is recommended to apply Vitamin C products in the morning before sunscreen to help protect the skin from environmental damage. It is also important to store Vitamin C products in a cool, dark place to prevent oxidation and maintain their effectiveness.

4. References:

- Al-Niaimi, F., & Chiang, N. (2017). Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 10(7), 14–17.

- Telang, P. S. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian Dermatology Online Journal, 4(2), 143–146.

- Pullar, J. M., Carr, A. C., & Vissers, M. C. M. (2017). The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients, 9(8), 866.

Stearic Acid

Other name: Octadecanoic Acid; C18; Hexyldecyl Stearate

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Sufactant, Refatting

1. Definition Stearic Acid:

Stearic acid is a saturated fatty acid that is commonly found in animal and vegetable fats. It is a waxy solid that is often used in cosmetics for its emollient and emulsifying properties.

2. Use:

Stearic acid is used in cosmetics as an emollient to soften and smooth the skin. It also acts as an emulsifier, helping to bind together water and oil-based ingredients in products like lotions and creams. Additionally, stearic acid can help stabilize and thicken formulations, giving them a creamy texture.

3. Usage Stearic Acid:

When using cosmetics containing stearic acid, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or breakouts when using products with stearic acid, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and to consult a dermatologist if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Pumori Saokar Telang, Ashish Gupta, and Nidhi Choudhary. (2016). Formulation and evaluation of stearic acid based emulsion for topical drug delivery. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research.

- M. C. Gohel, S. P. Amin, and M. J. B. Shah. (2008). Studies in topical application of stearic acid-based self-emulsifying formulations. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy.

- A. J. Ogunjimi, J. A. Akin-Ajani, and O. A. Odeku. (2016). Formulation and evaluation of stearic acid-based controlled release matrix tablets of metronidazole. Tropical Journal of Pharmaceutical Research.

Ceteth 20 Phosphate

Function: Surfactant, Cleansing

1. Definition Ceteth 20 Phosphate:

Ceteth-20 Phosphate is an ingredient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products as an emulsifier. It is a phosphate ester of Ceteth-20, which is a blend of cetyl and stearyl alcohols derived from natural sources such as coconut or palm oil.

2. Use:

Ceteth-20 Phosphate is primarily used in cosmetic formulations as an emulsifier, helping to stabilize oil-in-water emulsions. It also functions as a surfactant, helping to reduce the surface tension between the various components in a product, allowing them to mix together more easily. This ingredient is commonly found in creams, lotions, and other skincare products to ensure a smooth and uniform texture.

3. Usage Ceteth 20 Phosphate:

When using products containing Ceteth-20 Phosphate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing this ingredient to larger areas of the skin. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if irritation or adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately.

4. References:

- "Ceteth-20 Phosphate." Cosmeticsinfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ceteth-20-phosphate.

- "Ceteth-20 Phosphate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ceteth-20-phosphate.

- "Ceteth-20 Phosphate." SpecialChem, www.specialchem.com/inci/ceteth-20-phosphate.

Peg 20 Stearate

Function: Surfactant, Emulsifying, Sufactant

1. Definition Peg 20 Stearate:

Peg 20 Stearate is a polyethylene glycol derivative of stearic acid, commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant. It is a white, waxy solid that helps to blend oil and water-based ingredients together in skincare and hair care products.

2. Use:

Peg 20 Stearate is used in a variety of cosmetic formulations such as creams, lotions, and serums. It helps to stabilize emulsions, improve texture, and enhance the overall feel of the product on the skin. Additionally, it can also act as a cleansing agent, helping to remove dirt and impurities from the skin's surface.

3. Usage Peg 20 Stearate:

When using products containing Peg 20 Stearate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if irritation occurs, discontinue use and consult a dermatologist.

4. References:

- "PEG-20 Stearate" by Cosmetics Info, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/peg-20-stearate

- "Polyethylene Glycols (PEGs)" by Environmental Working Group, https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredients/706623-polyethylene-glycols-pegs/

- "PEG-20 Stearate" by Truth in Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/peg-20-stearate

Dicetyl Phosphate

Other name: Dihexadecyl hydrogen phosphate

Function: Surfactant, Emulsifying

1. Definition Dicetyl Phosphate:

Dicetyl Phosphate is a synthetic compound commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and emulsifier. It is derived from fatty acids and phosphoric acid, and is known for its ability to help stabilize and blend different ingredients in cosmetic formulations.

2. Use:

Dicetyl Phosphate is primarily used in skincare and haircare products such as lotions, creams, serums, and shampoos. It acts as a moisturizer, helping to hydrate and soften the skin or hair. Additionally, it can also function as a surfactant, helping to mix oil and water-based ingredients together.

3. Usage Dicetyl Phosphate:

When using products containing Dicetyl Phosphate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also advisable to avoid using products containing Dicetyl Phosphate on broken or irritated skin.

4. References:

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 16143, Dicetyl Phosphate. [https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Dicetyl-phosphate]

- Cosmetics Info. Dicetyl Phosphate. [https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/dicetyl-phosphate]

- The Personal Care Products Council. Dicetyl Phosphate. [https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-database/detail/1698]