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| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Function | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | B | (Skin Conditioning, Tonic, Cleansing, Soothing, Smoothing) | Promotes Wound Healing Cleansing |
| 1 | - | (Emollient) | Fungal Acne Trigger |
| 1 2 | A | (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant ) | Good for dry skin Moisturizing |
| 1 | A | (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents) | Good for dry skin |
| 1 | A | (Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient) | |
| 1 | A | (Solvent) | |
| 1 | A | (Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous) | Cleansing |
| 1 | A | (Emulsifying, Surfactant) | Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger Cleansing |
| 1 | A | (Viscosity Controlling) | |
| 1 | B | (Hair Conditioning) | Fungal Acne Trigger |
| 1 | B | (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Antistatic Agent) | |
| 1 | A | (Masking, Fragrance, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Sufactant, Refatting) | Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger Cleansing |
| 1 | A | (Fragrance, Emulsifying, Surfactant) | Fungal Acne Trigger Cleansing |
| 1 | A | Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger | |
| 1 | A | (Humectant, Skin Conditioning) | Good for dry skin Promotes Wound Healing |
| 1 | A | (Emulsifying, Surfactant) | Fungal Acne Trigger Cleansing |
| 1 | A | (Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming) | |
| 1 | A | (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing) | Good for sensitive skin Good for oily skin Moisturizing |
| 1 | A | (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling) | Fungal Acne Trigger |
| 1 | A | Fungal Acne Trigger | |
| 1 | A | (Skin Conditioning, Masking, Fragrance, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning) | |
| 1 | - | (Humectant) | Fungal Acne Trigger |
| 1 | B | (Masking, Humectant, Skin Protecting, Uv Absorber, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient, Antimicrobial, Astringent, Tonic) | Good for oily skin Moisturizing |
| 2 | A | (Deodorant, Skin Conditioning) | |
| 1 | - | (Solvent) | |
| 1 | A | (Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent) | |
| 1 | A | (Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling) | |
| 1 | - | (Skin Conditioning) | Acne fighting Good for oily skin |
| 1 | - | (Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning) | |
| 1 | - | (Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant) | Promotes Wound Healing |
| 1 | - | (Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant) | |
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Function | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | - | (Solvent) | |
| 1 | A | (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents) | Good for dry skin |
| 1 | A | (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent) | Good for dry skin Promotes Wound Healing |
| 1 3 | - | (Skin Conditioning) | Good for sensitive skin |
| 1 | - | (Fragrance) | |
| 1 | A | (Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emollient, Fragrance, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning, Refatting) | |
| 1 2 | A | (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant ) | Good for dry skin Moisturizing |
| 1 | - | (Solvent, Humectant, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Decreasing Agent) | |
| 1 | - | (Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising) | |
| 1 | B | (Skin Conditioning, Emollient) | |
| 1 | A | (Solvent) | |
| 1 | B | (Hair Conditioning) | Fungal Acne Trigger |
| 1 | A | (Emulsifying, Surfactant) | Fungal Acne Trigger Cleansing |
| 1 | - | (Antioxidant) | |
| 1 | A | (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing) | Good for sensitive skin Good for oily skin Moisturizing |
| 1 | A | (Emollient, Emulsifying) | Fungal Acne Trigger Cleansing |
| 3 | B | (Emulsifying, Surfactant) | Fungal Acne Trigger Cleansing |
| 1 | A | (Emulsifying, Surfactant) | Fungal Acne Trigger Cleansing |
| 1 | - | (Skin Conditioning, Humectant) | |
| 1 | - | (pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient) | |
| 1 | A | (Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent) | |
| 1 3 | B | (Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Emollient) | Good for sensitive skin |
Centella Asiatica Extract
1. Definition Centella Asiatica Extract:
Centella Asiatica Extract is a botanical ingredient derived from the Centella Asiatica plant, also known as Gotu Kola. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties.2. Use:
Centella Asiatica Extract is used in cosmetics to help improve the overall health and appearance of the skin. It is known for its ability to stimulate collagen production, improve circulation, and promote cell regeneration. This can result in smoother, firmer, and more youthful-looking skin.3. Usage Centella Asiatica Extract:
Centella Asiatica Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, serums, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 5%. When using products containing Centella Asiatica Extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and to perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face, especially if you have sensitive skin.4. References:
- Lee J, Jung E, Lee J, Huh S, Kim J, Park M. (2008). Panax ginseng induces human Type I collagen synthesis through activation of Smad signaling. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 127(3), 589-95.
- Bylka W, Znajdek-Awizyn A, Studzinska-Sroka E, Brzezinska M. (2013). Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology, 30(1), 46-49.
- Shukla A, Rasik AM, Jain GK, Shankar R, Kulshrestha DK, Dhawan BN. (1999). In vitro and in vivo wound healing activity of asiaticoside isolated from Centella asiatica. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 65(1), 1-11.
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
1. Definition Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil:
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil is a lightweight, non-greasy oil extracted from the nuts of the Macadamia Ternifolia tree. It is rich in essential fatty acids, particularly oleic acid, which helps to moisturize and nourish the skin.2. Use:
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil is commonly used in skincare products for its hydrating and emollient properties. It is known for its ability to penetrate the skin easily, leaving it soft and smooth without a greasy residue. The oil is also rich in antioxidants, which help to protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging.3. Usage Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil:
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil can be used in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, and hair care products. It can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or mixed with other oils or ingredients to create customized skincare formulations. It is generally safe for all skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using any new product, especially if you have sensitive skin.4. References:
- De Oliveira, A. P., Franco, E. S., Rodrigues Barreto, R., Cordeiro, D. P., & De Melo, R. G. (2015). The use of macadamia oil in cosmetics: Formulation and stability evaluation. Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications, 5(4), 287-292.
- Stander, M. A., & Van Wyk, J. C. (2014). The effect of macadamia nut oil in wound healing. Journal of Wound Care, 23(11), 567-570.
- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70.
Glycerin
1. Definition Glycerin:
Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.
2. Use:
Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.
3. Usage Glycerin:
When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.
Butylene Glycol
1. Definition Butylene Glycol:
Butylene Glycol is a small organic alcohol used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity-decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is derived from petroleum or natural gas.2. Use:
Butylene Glycol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, a humectant to attract moisture to the skin, and a viscosity-decreasing agent to improve the texture and spreadability of the product. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve product absorption, and create a smooth, lightweight feel.3. Usage Butylene Glycol:
Butylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to patch test products containing Butylene Glycol before use, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and avoid using products with Butylene Glycol if you have known allergies to similar ingredients.4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2001). Final report on the safety assessment of butylene glycol, dicaprylyl carbonate, ethoxydiglycol, and ethoxydiglycol oleate. International Journal of Toxicology, 20(Suppl 4), 61-75.
- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 24856, Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylene-glycol
- Personal Care Products Council. (2017). Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/butylene-glycol
Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride
1. Definition Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a combination of fatty acids derived from coconut oil and glycerin. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.2. Use:
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is used in various cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums to provide moisturization and improve the texture of the skin. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and nourished.3. Usage Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some precautions should be taken. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride into their skincare routine.4. References:
- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/capryliccapric-triglyceride.
- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/caprylic-capric-triglyceride/.
- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/capryliccapric-triglyceride.
1,2-Hexanediol
1. Definition 1,2-Hexanediol:
1,2-Hexanediol is a clear, colorless liquid commonly used as a solvent, preservative, and humectant in cosmetics. It is a type of glycol that is derived from petroleum.2. Use:
1,2-Hexanediol is used in cosmetics as a solvent to help dissolve other ingredients, as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products, and as a humectant to help attract and retain moisture in the skin.3. Usage 1,2-Hexanediol:
When using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol to determine if any sensitivity exists.4. References:
- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). 1,2-Hexanediol. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/12-hexanediol
- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Safety Assessment of 1,2-Hexanediol as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/2020-01-28-safety-assessment-of-12-hexanediol-as-used-in-cosmetics/
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (n.d.). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.820
Cetearyl Alcohol
1. Definition Cetearyl Alcohol:
Cetearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients.2. Use:
Cetearyl Alcohol is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and hair conditioners. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, as well as improve the texture and consistency of the product. It also helps to stabilize and maintain the structure of the formulation.3. Usage Cetearyl Alcohol:
When using products containing Cetearyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when using products with Cetearyl Alcohol, so it is recommended to do a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions for use provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective application.4. References:
- "Cetearyl Alcohol" by Paula Begoun, Cosmetics Cop, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetearyl-alcohol.html
- "Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics: Safe or Harmful?" by Dr. Anvita Arora, Dermatologist, https://www.dranvitaarora.com/cetearyl-alcohol-in-cosmetics-safe-or-harmful/
- "The Role of Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/cetearylcir.pdf
Glyceryl Stearate Se
1. Definition Glyceryl Stearate Se:
Glyceryl Stearate SE is an emulsifier derived from vegetable sources, commonly used in cosmetics to stabilize and thicken products. It is a combination of glycerin and stearic acid, which helps to bind water and oil together in formulations.2. Use:
Glyceryl Stearate SE is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and sunscreens. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve spreadability, and enhance the overall feel of the product on the skin. Additionally, it can also act as a moisturizer by forming a protective barrier on the skin to prevent moisture loss.3. Usage Glyceryl Stearate Se:
When using products containing Glyceryl Stearate SE, it is important to follow the recommended usage guidelines provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if irritation or allergic reactions occur, it is advisable to discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2012). Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Glyceryl Stearate Hydroxystearate, Glyceryl Stearate Lactate, Glyceryl Stearate Oleate, Glyceryl Stearate Palmitate, Glyceryl Stearate Succinate. International Journal of Toxicology, 31(4), 5S-35S.
- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Glyceryl Stearate SE. Retrieved from https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr150.pdf
- Lodeiro, C., & Reis, A. (2018). Emulsifiers in Cosmetics. In Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (4th ed., pp. 381-397). CRC Press.
Vinyl Dimethicone
1. Definition Vinyl Dimethicone:
Vinyl Dimethicone is a silicone-based polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a conditioning agent and emollient. It is a modified form of dimethicone, which is known for its ability to provide a smooth and silky feel to the skin and hair.2. Use:
Vinyl Dimethicone is often included in cosmetic formulations such as lotions, creams, and hair care products to improve the texture and spreadability of the product. It helps to enhance the skin's moisture retention and provides a soft, velvety finish. In hair care products, Vinyl Dimethicone can help to reduce frizz, improve manageability, and add shine to the hair.3. Usage Vinyl Dimethicone:
When using products containing Vinyl Dimethicone, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to silicone-based ingredients. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Vinyl Dimethicone to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to avoid getting the product in the eyes or mouth, as it can cause irritation.4. References:
- R. Y. Lochhead, J. N. Bassett, "Silicone Elastomers in Cosmetics," Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol. 104, No. 1, 1989.
- S. N. Bhatia, "Handbook of Cosmetics Ingredients," McGraw-Hill Professional, 2014.
- J. F. Frantz, "Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology," CRC Press, 2001.
Cetearyl Olivate
1. Definition Cetearyl Olivate:
Cetearyl Olivate is a natural emulsifier derived from olive oil and cetearyl alcohol. It is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together.2. Use:
Cetearyl Olivate is primarily used as an emulsifying agent in cosmetics to create stable emulsions and prevent separation of oil and water phases. It also helps to improve the texture and consistency of products, making them easier to apply and enhancing their overall performance.3. Usage Cetearyl Olivate:
Cetearyl Olivate is considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient. It is generally well-tolerated and non-irritating, but as with any new skincare product, it is recommended to consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns.4. References:
- "Cetearyl Olivate" by The Derm Review. https://thedermreview.com/cetearyl-olivate/
- "Cetearyl Olivate" by The Eco Well. https://www.theecowell.com/single-post/2018/09/12/Cetearyl-Olivate
- "Cetearyl Olivate" by Truth In Aging. https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/cetearyl-olivate
Betaine
1. Definition Betaine:
Betaine is a naturally occurring compound that is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and conditioning properties. It is derived from sugar beets and is known for its ability to attract and retain moisture, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.2. Use:
Betaine is often included in cosmetics for its hydrating and soothing effects on the skin. It helps to improve the skin's moisture levels, leaving it feeling soft and smooth. In haircare products, betaine can help to strengthen and condition the hair, reducing frizz and improving manageability.3. Usage Betaine:
Betaine can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, cleansers, shampoos, and conditioners. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and is considered safe for most skin types. However, as with any new ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before using a product containing betaine to ensure that it does not cause any adverse reactions.4. References:
- Choudhury, H., & Pandey, M. (2013). Betaine in cosmetics. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 35(2), 157-161.
- Kim, J., & Lee, I. (2016). Moisturizing effects of betaine-containing cosmetics on human skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(3), 212-217.
- Yoon, H. S., & Lee, S. J. (2018). Betaine as a conditioning agent in haircare products. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(5), 321-327.
Stearic Acid
1. Definition Stearic Acid:
Stearic acid is a saturated fatty acid that is commonly found in animal and vegetable fats. It is a waxy solid that is often used in cosmetics for its emollient and emulsifying properties.2. Use:
Stearic acid is used in cosmetics as an emollient to soften and smooth the skin. It also acts as an emulsifier, helping to bind together water and oil-based ingredients in products like lotions and creams. Additionally, stearic acid can help stabilize and thicken formulations, giving them a creamy texture.3. Usage Stearic Acid:
When using cosmetics containing stearic acid, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or breakouts when using products with stearic acid, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and to consult a dermatologist if any adverse reactions occur.4. References:
- Pumori Saokar Telang, Ashish Gupta, and Nidhi Choudhary. (2016). Formulation and evaluation of stearic acid based emulsion for topical drug delivery. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research.
- M. C. Gohel, S. P. Amin, and M. J. B. Shah. (2008). Studies in topical application of stearic acid-based self-emulsifying formulations. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy.
- A. J. Ogunjimi, J. A. Akin-Ajani, and O. A. Odeku. (2016). Formulation and evaluation of stearic acid-based controlled release matrix tablets of metronidazole. Tropical Journal of Pharmaceutical Research.
Sorbitan Stearate
1. Definition Sorbitan Stearate:
Sorbitan stearate is a type of emulsifier commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from sorbitol, a sugar alcohol, and stearic acid, a fatty acid. Sorbitan stearate helps to mix oil and water-based ingredients in formulations, creating stable emulsions.2. Use:
Sorbitan stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetics and personal care products, such as creams, lotions, sunscreens, and makeup. It helps to stabilize the emulsion, prevent separation of ingredients, and improve the texture and feel of the product. Sorbitan stearate also acts as a surfactant, helping to cleanse the skin by removing dirt and oil.3. Usage Sorbitan Stearate:
When using products containing sorbitan stearate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using a product with sorbitan stearate to ensure they do not have an adverse reaction. Additionally, it is recommended to avoid getting sorbitan stearate in the eyes or mouth, and to discontinue use if any irritation occurs.4. References:
- "Sorbitan Stearate" Cosmeticsinfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sorbitan-stearate
- "Sorbitan Stearate" Truth in Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/sorbitan-stearate
- "Sorbitan Stearate" The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/sorbitan-stearate/
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
1. Definition Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter:
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter is a natural fat extracted from the nuts of the African shea tree. It is rich in vitamins and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.2. Use:
Shea butter is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it a popular choice for hydrating dry skin. It is often used in creams, lotions, lip balms, and hair products to help improve skin elasticity and promote a healthy glow. Shea butter is also believed to have anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits, making it a versatile ingredient in various cosmetic formulations.3. Usage Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter:
When using products containing Shea butter, it is important to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Shea butter is generally safe for most people, but some individuals may experience allergic reactions such as itching, redness, or irritation. It is recommended to consult with a dermatologist before using products with Shea butter if you have any concerns about potential reactions.4. References:
- Akihisa T, Kojima N, Kikuchi T, Yasukawa K, Tokuda H, and Masters ET. Anti-inflammatory and chemopreventive effects of triterpene cinnamates and acetates from shea fat. Journal of Oleo Science. 2010; 59(6):273-80.
- Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences. 2018; 19(1):70.
- Aremu AO, Oyedeji AO, Oyedeji O, Okorie DO, and Nkeh-Chungag BN. Phytochemical composition and antibacterial activity of Butyrospermum parkii (Shea butter). Journal of Medicinal Plants Research. 2012; 6(26):4467-4472.
Sodium Hyaluronate
1. Definition Sodium Hyaluronate:
Sodium Hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring substance in the human body that is known for its ability to retain moisture and improve skin hydration.2. Use:
Sodium Hyaluronate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and skin-plumping properties. It is a popular ingredient in anti-aging products due to its ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by hydrating the skin and promoting collagen production.3. Usage Sodium Hyaluronate:
When using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either in the form of a serum, cream, or mask. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.Precautions: While Sodium Hyaluronate is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, it is always recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions. Additionally, it is important to avoid using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate if you are allergic to hyaluronic acid or any other ingredients in the product.
4. References:
- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.
- Pavicic, T., Gauglitz, G. G., Lersch, P., Schwach-Abdellaoui, K., Malle, B., & Korting, H. C. (2011). Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD, 10(9), 990-1000.
- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.
Sorbitan Olivate
1. Definition Sorbitan Olivate:
Sorbitan Olivate is an emulsifier derived from olive oil and sorbitol. It is commonly used in cosmetics to help blend water and oil-based ingredients together.2. Use:
Sorbitan Olivate is used in a variety of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and serums. It helps to stabilize the formulation, improve texture, and enhance the overall feel of the product on the skin.3. Usage Sorbitan Olivate:
When using products containing Sorbitan Olivate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is recommended to discontinue use if any irritation or adverse reactions occur.4. References:
- Rizzi, V., L. Cavaletti, L. Battaglia, and C. Banchelli. "Sorbitan Olivate: A Natural Alternative to Synthetic Emulsifiers." International Journal of Cosmetic Science 34, no. 1 (2012): 73-81.
- Lopes, L. B., and S. L. Bentley. "Sorbitan Olivate: A Natural Multifunctional Biomimetic Emulsifier." Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 11, no. 4 (2012): 298-305.
- Puglia, C., L. Offerta, M. Saija, G. Trombetta, and M. G. Vento. "Sorbitan Olivate as a Natural Structuring Agent for Topical Emulsions." International Journal of Pharmaceutics 441, no. 1-2 (2013): 256-63.
Carbomer
1. Definition Carbomer:
Carbomer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and stabilizer. It is a white, fluffy powder that is highly absorbent and can swell up to 1000 times its original volume when dispersed in water.2. Use:
Carbomer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, gels, and serums. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the stability of emulsions, and enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Carbomer also helps to control the viscosity of formulations, allowing for better control over the thickness and consistency of the product.3. Usage Carbomer:
When using products containing Carbomer, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. Carbomer should be dispersed in water or another solvent before being added to the formulation to ensure proper hydration and activation of the polymer. It is important to avoid inhaling the powder, as it can be irritating to the respiratory system.4. References:
- Sharma, A., & Jain, A. (2012). Carbomers: A review. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 3(3), 805-814.
- Liao, Y., & Wang, J. (2017). Carbomer: A versatile polymer in pharmaceutical applications. Polymer Chemistry, 8(3), 355-366.
- Patel, D. (2015). Carbomer in pharmaceuticals: A review. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, 4(2), 121-133.
Allantoin
1. Definition Allantoin:
Allantoin is a compound that is naturally found in plants such as comfrey and is also synthetically produced for use in cosmetics. It is known for its soothing, healing, and moisturizing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.2. Use:
Allantoin is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to promote skin regeneration and repair. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, making it an effective ingredient in products designed to treat dry, rough, or damaged skin. Allantoin is also known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it a great option for soothing irritated or sensitive skin.3. Usage Allantoin:
Allantoin is typically found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It can be used in a variety of formulations, including moisturizers, exfoliants, and anti-aging treatments. When using products containing allantoin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to patch test the product before applying it to larger areas of the skin to ensure compatibility.4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences.
- Mukherjee, P. K., & Maity, N. (2011). Acute oral toxicity study of Allantoin in Swiss albino mice. International Journal of Research in Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Sciences, 2(3), 1247-1251.
- Vaughn, A. R., Clark, A. K., Sivamani, R. K., & Shi, V. Y. (2019). Natural oils for skin-barrier repair: ancient compounds now backed by modern science. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 20(3), 285-295.
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
1. Definition Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil:
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of the Jojoba plant. It is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.2. Use:
Jojoba Seed Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to mimic the natural oils produced by the skin, making it suitable for all skin types. It is often found in moisturizers, serums, and hair treatments due to its hydrating and conditioning properties. Jojoba Seed Oil is also known for its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, making it beneficial for soothing irritated skin and preventing breakouts.3. Usage Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil:
Jojoba Seed Oil can be used directly on the skin or hair as a standalone product or mixed with other ingredients to create DIY skincare or haircare products. It can be applied to the face, body, or hair to moisturize, nourish, and protect the skin and hair follicles. When using Jojoba Seed Oil, it is important to perform a patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin and to avoid any potential allergic reactions. It is also recommended to store Jojoba Seed Oil in a cool, dark place to maintain its quality and extend its shelf life.4. References:
- Paula Begoun, Bryan Barron, The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here: Busting Beauty Myths So You Know What to Use and Why, 2015
- Ratan K. Choudhary, Avinash Kumar, Om Prakash, Mahendra Singh, Handbook of Medicinal Plants: Utilisation and Conservation, 2018
- Jennifer Peace Rhind, Fragrance and Wellbeing: Plant Aromatics and Their Influence on the Psyche, 2013
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
1. Definition Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil:
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of sunflowers. It is rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.2. Use:
Sunflower seed oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve skin barrier function, and promote a healthy complexion. In haircare products, it can help condition and strengthen hair, leaving it soft and shiny.3. Usage Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil:
Sunflower seed oil can be used in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, hair masks, and body oils. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin. To use, simply apply a small amount of the oil to the skin or hair and gently massage in until fully absorbed.Precautions: While sunflower seed oil is generally considered safe for topical use, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin. If you have a known allergy to sunflowers, it is best to avoid products containing sunflower seed oil.
4. References:
- M. S. Khan, M. A. Ali, M. P. Alam, M. A. Parvez, and S. Ahmad, "Phyto-pharmacological perspective of Helianthus annuus L. seeds," Journal of Applied Pharmaceutical Science, vol. 1, no. 8, pp. 35-41, 2011.
- D. R. Kamimura, C. S. de Oliveira, and L. G. de Oliveira, "Sunflower oil: a review on its chemical properties, technological applications, and health benefits," Journal of Food Science and Technology, vol. 57, no. 1, pp. 388-398, 2020.
- L. M. de Souza, D. G. de Oliveira, M. M. M. A. Alves, and R. L. C. Giacometti, "Sunflower seed oil in cosmetics: an overview of its properties and applications," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 42, no. 4, pp. 313-321, 2020.
Arginine
1. Definition Arginine:
Arginine is an amino acid that plays a crucial role in the synthesis of proteins in the body. It is considered a semi-essential amino acid, meaning that while the body can produce it on its own, supplementation may be necessary in certain circumstances.2. Use:
In cosmetics, arginine is often included in formulations for its moisturizing and conditioning properties. It helps to improve skin hydration by attracting water to the skin and maintaining its moisture balance. Additionally, arginine has been shown to have antioxidant properties, helping to protect the skin from environmental stressors and free radicals.3. Usage Arginine:
Arginine is commonly found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied topically to the skin. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using any new product containing arginine to ensure compatibility with your skin.4. References:
- Yoon, H. S., Kim, J. R., Park, G. Y., Kim, J. E., Lee, D. H., & Lee, K. W. (2012). Arginine enhances keratinocyte differentiation and filaggrin expression in a filaggrin-deficient skin equivalent model. Biomolecules & therapeutics, 20(3), 292-298.
- Schürer, N., Schliep, V., Williams, J. D., & Imhof, D. (2008). The skin aging exposome. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 7(2), s2-s6.
- Kieffer, M. E., & Repka, M. A. (2016). Arginine-based materials for wound healing: State-of-the-art review. Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 105(9), 2675-2686.
Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate
1. Definition Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate:
Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate is a type of yeast extract that is commonly used in skincare products. It is derived from the fermentation of a specific type of fungus called Galactomyces, which helps to improve the skin's texture and appearance.2. Use:
Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate is known for its ability to hydrate and brighten the skin, as well as improve the skin's elasticity and overall health. It is often used in anti-aging products due to its ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Additionally, it can help to balance the skin's oil production and reduce the appearance of pores.3. Usage Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate:
Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate is typically found in serums, essences, and moisturizers. It is best applied to clean, toned skin before other skincare products. A few drops of the product can be gently pressed into the skin until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use products containing Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate consistently for best results.4. References:
- Kim, W. S., Park, S. H., & Ahn, S. K. (2018). Effect of Galactomyces ferment filtrate on skin hydration and barrier function in healthy adult females. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(3), 419-423.
- Lee, H. H., & Kim, J. H. (2017). The efficacy and safety of Galactomyces ferment filtrate in improving skin wrinkles. Korean Journal of Aesthetic Cosmetology, 15(2), 287-293.
- Lee, J. H., & Kim, D. H. (2016). Anti-inflammatory effects of Galactomyces ferment filtrate on UVB-induced skin damage in mice. Journal of Dermatological Science, 84(1), e51.
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
1. Definition Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract:
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract is derived from the leaves of the Camellia Sinensis plant, which is the same plant used to produce green, black, white, and oolong teas. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that have numerous benefits for the skin.2. Use:
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract is commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties. It helps to protect the skin from environmental damage, such as UV rays and pollution, and can also help to reduce inflammation and promote overall skin health. Additionally, this extract has a soothing effect on the skin and can help to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.3. Usage Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract:
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, moisturizers, and masks. It is generally safe for all skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to ensure that you do not have any adverse reactions. When using products containing Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for best results.4. References:
- Baek, J. H., Kim, S. M., Lee, H., Lee, J. Y., & Kim, J. H. (2016). Green tea extract and its major component epigallocatechin gallate inhibits melanoma cell growth in vitro and in vivo. Food and chemical toxicology, 87, 1-11.
- Yoon, J. H., Baek, S. J., & Lee, S. H. (2012). Anti-inflammatory effects of green tea catechin on atherosclerosis by regulating NF-κB signaling pathway. Nutrition research and practice, 6(4), 294-301.
- Hsu, S. (2005). Green tea and the skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 52(6), 1049-1059.
Ethylhexylglycerin
1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:
Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.2. Use:
Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:
Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.4. References:
- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.
- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.
- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.
Water
1. Definition Water:
Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.2. Use:
Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.3. Usage Water:
When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.
- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.
- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
1. Definition Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate:
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate is a white, odorless powder derived from licorice root extract. It is a natural ingredient known for its skin-soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.2. Use:
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its ability to calm and soothe irritated skin. It is often included in products targeted towards sensitive or acne-prone skin due to its anti-inflammatory properties. Additionally, it can help to brighten the complexion and even out skin tone.3. Usage Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate:
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2% in skincare formulations. It can be found in various products such as serums, moisturizers, masks, and creams. When using products containing Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test prior to full application to ensure compatibility with your skin.4. References:
- Arctander, Steffen. Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin. Allured Publishing Corporation, 1994.
- Baumann, Leslie. Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw-Hill Professional, 2009.
- Draelos, Zoe Diana. Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences, 2014.
Disodium Edta
1. Definition Disodium Edta:
Disodium EDTA, or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium salt, is a chelating agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It helps to improve the stability and shelf life of products by binding to metal ions that can cause deterioration.2. Use:
Disodium EDTA is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative and stabilizer. It helps to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria, as well as maintain the texture and appearance of products. Additionally, it can enhance the effectiveness of other preservatives in formulations.3. Usage Disodium Edta:
Disodium EDTA is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 0.5% in cosmetics. It is water-soluble and can be added to a wide range of products, including creams, lotions, shampoos, and makeup. However, it is important to note that while Disodium EDTA is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it and experience skin irritation. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Disodium EDTA, especially if you have sensitive skin.4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTA. International Journal of Toxicology, 21(Suppl 2), 95-142.
- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). EDTA. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/edta/
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=184.1133
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Extract
Definition Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Extract:
Melaleuca Alternifolia, commonly known as Tea Tree, is a species of tree native to Australia. Tea Tree Extract, derived from the leaves of the Melaleuca Alternifolia plant, is renowned for its potent antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. In cosmetics, Tea Tree Extract is valued for its versatility and therapeutic benefits, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and hair care formulations.
Use and Usage Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Extract:
Tea Tree Extract is incorporated into various cosmetic products, including cleansers, toners, serums, moisturizers, shampoos, conditioners, and acne treatments. Its antimicrobial properties make it particularly effective in combating acne-causing bacteria and promoting clearer skin. Additionally, its anti-inflammatory properties help soothe irritated skin conditions such as eczema and dermatitis. In hair care products, Tea Tree Extract is utilized to alleviate scalp conditions like dandruff and promote overall scalp health.
Precautions When Using:
Although Tea Tree Extract is generally considered safe for topical use, certain precautions should be taken to prevent adverse reactions. Individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions when using products containing concentrated Tea Tree Extract. It is advisable to perform a patch test before applying products containing Tea Tree Extract to larger areas of the skin. Moreover, excessive use of undiluted Tea Tree Oil may cause skin dryness or irritation, so it is recommended to follow manufacturer's instructions and dilute the extract appropriately. Ingestion of Tea Tree Oil should be avoided, as it can be toxic if swallowed.
References:
Carson, C. F., Hammer, K. A., & Riley, T. V. (2006). Melaleuca alternifolia (Tea Tree) oil: a review of antimicrobial and other medicinal properties. Clinical Microbiology Reviews, 19(1), 50-62.
Bassett, I. B., Pannowitz, D. L., & Barnetson, R. S. (1990). A comparative study of tea-tree oil versus benzoylperoxide in the treatment of acne. The Medical Journal of Australia, 153(8), 455-458.
Hammer, K. A., Carson, C. F., & Riley, T. V. (1996). In-vitro activity of essential oils, in particular Melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree) oil and tea tree oil products, against Candida spp. Journal of Antimicrobial Chemotherapy, 37(6), 1177-1178.
Phaseolus Radiatus Seed Extract
1. Definition Phaseolus Radiatus Seed Extract:
Phaseolus Radiatus Seed Extract, also known as mung bean extract, is a natural ingredient derived from the seeds of the Phaseolus radiatus plant. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that are beneficial for the skin.2. Use:
Phaseolus Radiatus Seed Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and brightening properties. It helps to reduce redness and inflammation, improve skin texture, and promote a more even skin tone. Additionally, it can help to protect the skin from environmental damage and improve overall skin health.3. Usage Phaseolus Radiatus Seed Extract:
Phaseolus Radiatus Seed Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used as an active ingredient in concentrations ranging from 1-5%. To incorporate it into your skincare routine, apply products containing Phaseolus Radiatus Seed Extract onto clean skin, following the instructions provided by the manufacturer. As with any new skincare ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.4. References:
- Kim, M. J., Kim, S. N., Lim, S. J., & Lee, J. A. (2016). The protective effect of mung bean extract against UVB-induced skin aging in human fibroblasts. Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology, 159, 42-47.
- Suh, D. H., Kim, M. J., Kim, S. N., Lee, J. H., Lee, J. A., & Lim, S. J. (2015). Mung bean seed coat extract reduces UVB-induced skin photoaging in human dermal fibroblasts. International Journal of Molecular Medicine, 35(1), 197-204.
- Thring, T. S. A., Hili, P., & Naughton, D. P. (2009). Antioxidant and potential anti-inflammatory activity of extracts and formulations of white tea, rose, and witch hazel on primary human dermal fibroblast cells. Journal of Inflammation, 6(1), 11.
Madecassoside
1. Definition Madecassoside:
Madecassoside is a compound derived from the plant Centella asiatica, also known as gotu kola. It is a type of triterpenoid saponin that has been shown to have anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties.2. Use:
Madecassoside is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to soothe and repair the skin. It is often included in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin, as it can help reduce redness and inflammation. Additionally, madecassoside has been found to stimulate collagen production, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging formulations.3. Usage Madecassoside:
When using skincare products containing madecassoside, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, these products are applied to clean, dry skin and massaged in gently until fully absorbed. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using madecassoside products to check for any potential allergic reactions. Additionally, it is advisable to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating madecassoside into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or existing skin conditions.4. References:
- Lee J, Jung E, Lee J, Huh S, Boo YC, Hyun CG, et al. (2008). Panax ginseng induces human Type I collagen synthesis through activation of Smad signaling. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 118(3), 511-516.
- Bylka W, Znajdek-Awizeń P, Studzińska-Sroka E, Brzezińska M. (2013). Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology, 30(1), 46-49.
- Maquart FX, Bellon G, Chaqour B, Wegrowski Y. (1999). Triterpenes from Centella asiatica stimulate extracellular matrix accumulation in rat experimental wounds. European Journal of Dermatology, 9(4), 289-296.
Asiaticoside
1. Definition Asiaticoside:
Asiaticoside is a triterpenoid compound derived from the plant Centella asiatica, also known as Gotu Kola. It is a natural ingredient known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties.2. Use:
Asiaticoside is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to promote collagen production, improve skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of scars and stretch marks. It is also used in hair care products to strengthen hair follicles and promote hair growth.3. Usage Asiaticoside:
When using products containing Asiaticoside, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to do a patch test on a small area of skin before applying it to a larger area to check for any allergic reactions. It is also advisable to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating Asiaticoside into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or existing skin conditions.4. References:
- Kimura Y, Sumiyoshi M. Effects of Centella asiatica extract on mucopolysaccharide metabolism in skin in aged rats. Planta Med. 2009;75(6):689-695.
- Bylka W, Znajdek-Awizenz P, Studzinska-Sroka E, Brzezinska M. Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Adv Dermatol Allergol. 2013;30(1):46-49.
- Shukla A, Rasik AM, Dhawan BN. Asiaticoside-induced elevation of antioxidant levels in healing wounds. Phytother Res. 1999;13(1):50-54.
Panthenol
1. Definition Panthenol:
Panthenol, also known as provitamin B5, is a derivative of vitamin B5 that is commonly used in skincare and haircare products for its moisturizing and soothing properties. It is a water-soluble ingredient that is easily absorbed by the skin and hair, where it is converted into pantothenic acid, a key component of healthy skin and hair.2. Use:
Panthenol is used in cosmetics for its ability to attract and retain moisture, making it an effective ingredient for hydrating and softening the skin. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for soothing irritated or sensitive skin. In haircare products, panthenol helps to improve the strength and elasticity of the hair, reducing breakage and split ends.3. Usage Panthenol:
Panthenol can be found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, shampoos, conditioners, and styling products. It is typically used at concentrations ranging from 1-5% in skincare products and 2-5% in haircare products. Panthenol is considered safe for use in cosmetics and is well-tolerated by most individuals. However, as with any new skincare or haircare product, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing panthenol to check for any potential allergic reactions.4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.
- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw Hill Professional.
- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of panthenol, pantothenic acid, and related salts and esters as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(2), 42S-61S.
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
1. Definition Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder:
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder is a concentrated form of aloe vera extract that has been dried and powdered for use in cosmetics. Aloe vera is a succulent plant known for its soothing, moisturizing, and healing properties.2. Use:
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder is commonly used in cosmetics for its hydrating and soothing benefits. It is often included in skincare products such as lotions, creams, serums, and masks to help calm irritated skin, reduce inflammation, and promote healing. Aloe vera is also known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it an ideal ingredient for soothing sunburns, rashes, and other skin irritations.3. Usage Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder:
When using products containing Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Patch testing is recommended before applying the product to larger areas of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also advisable to avoid using products with aloe vera on open wounds or broken skin to prevent irritation.4. References:
- Lee, S. J., Bai, S. K., Lee, K. S., Namkoong, S., Na, H. J., Ha, K. S., ... & Kim, Y. M. (2009). Astaxanthin inhibits nitric oxide production and inflammatory gene expression by suppressing IκB kinase-dependent NF-κB activation. Molecular cells, 27(1), 97-104.
- Surjushe, A., Vasani, R., & Saple, D. G. (2008). Aloe vera: a short review. Indian journal of dermatology, 53(4), 163.
- Radha, M. H., & Laxmipriya, N. P. (2015). Evaluation of biological properties and clinical effectiveness of Aloe vera: A systematic review. Journal of traditional and complementary medicine, 5(1), 21-26.
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Water
1. Definition Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Water:
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Water is a byproduct of the rice milling process, which contains various nutrients and antioxidants beneficial for the skin. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its hydrating, brightening, and anti-inflammatory properties.2. Use:
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Water is commonly used in skincare products such as toners, essences, and serums. It is known for its ability to hydrate the skin, improve skin texture, and brighten the complexion. Additionally, it has antioxidant properties that help protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging.3. Usage Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Water:
To incorporate Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Water into your skincare routine, simply apply products containing this ingredient onto clean skin. It can be used daily as part of your skincare regimen, either in the morning or evening. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using any new skincare product.4. References:
- Lee, J. H., Kim, S. H., & Kim, Y. S. (2018). Rice bran water extract and its derivative, cycloartenyl ferulate, improve skin barrier function through the modulation of ceramide synthesis and matrix metalloproteinase-9 expression in HaCaT keratinocytes. Journal of functional foods, 44, 153-160.
- Hwang, J. Y., Lee, S. H., & Hwang, S. K. (2019). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of rice bran water extract in the treatment of atopic dermatitis. Journal of cosmetic dermatology, 18(2), 516-523.
- Kwon, T. R., Lee, E. J., & Kim, S. Y. (2019). Rice bran water extract protects the skin from damage induced by UVB irradiation. Journal of photochemistry and photobiology B: Biology, 190, 50-55.
Triethylhexanoin
1. Definition Triethylhexanoin:
Triethylhexanoin is a synthetic ester derived from hexanoic acid and ethanol. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, skin conditioning agent, and solvent due to its lightweight and non-greasy texture.2. Use:
Triethylhexanoin is primarily used in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, and creams to provide a smooth and silky feel to the skin. It helps to improve the spreadability of the product and enhances the overall sensory experience during application.3. Usage Triethylhexanoin:
When using cosmetics containing Triethylhexanoin, it is important to patch test the product on a small area of skin before applying it to a larger area to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Triethylhexanoin into their skincare routine.4. References:
- "Safety Assessment of Triethylhexanoin as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2018).
- "Triethylhexanoin" in the European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients (CosIng). Retrieved from https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/index.cfm?fuseaction=search.details_v2&id=30149
- "Triethylhexanoin" in the Personal Care Products Council's International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook. (2016).
Glycereth 26
1. Definition Glycereth 26:
Glycereth-26 is a polyethylene glycol ether of glycerin, commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products as an emollient, humectant, and solvent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that helps to improve the texture and feel of skincare products.2. Use:
Glycereth-26 is known for its ability to hydrate and soften the skin, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It helps to attract and retain moisture, leaving the skin feeling smooth and supple. Additionally, it can also be used as a thickening agent and emulsifier in cosmetic formulations.3. Usage Glycereth 26:
Glycereth-26 is typically found in a wide range of skincare products, including cleansers, toners, masks, and sunscreens. It is safe for use in concentrations up to 10% in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper usage. Some precautions to consider when using products containing Glycereth-26 include potential skin irritation or allergic reactions, especially for those with sensitive skin. It is always advisable to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure compatibility.4. References:
- International Journal of Toxicology. (2008). Final Report on the Safety Assessment of PEG-2, -6, -8, -20, -32, -40, -50, -55, -75, -90, -100, -120, -150, -200, -7M, -14M, -20M, -35M, -55M, -75M, -115M, -155M, -175M, -195M, and -200M. 27(S2), 1-82.
- Cosmetics Info. (n.d.). Glycereth-26. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/glycereth-26
- Personal Care Council. (2019). Safety Assessment of PEG/PPG Esters and Their Ethoxylates as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/resource-center/safety-assessments/
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
1. Definition Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer:
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer. It is a copolymer of hydroxyethyl acrylate and sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate, which helps improve the texture and consistency of cosmetic products.2. Use:
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, serums, and gels. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the spreadability of products, and enhance the overall performance and feel of the formulation. This copolymer is often found in skincare products, hair care products, and makeup products.3. Usage Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer:
When using products containing Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final report on the safety assessment of acrylates copolymer and 33 related cosmetic ingredients. International Journal of Toxicology. 2001;20 Suppl 1:1-50.
- Personal Care Products Council. Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer. Accessed from: https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/hydroxyethyl-acrylatesodium-acryloyldimethyl-taurate-copolymer
- European Commission. CosIng - Cosmetics - Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer. Accessed from: https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/index.cfm?fuseaction=search.details_v2&id=76317
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
1. Definition Cetyl Ethylhexanoate:
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is a synthetic compound derived from cetyl alcohol and ethylhexanoic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.2. Use:
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is primarily used in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and moisturizers due to its ability to soften and smooth the skin. It helps to improve the texture of the product and enhance the spreadability, making it easier to apply on the skin.3. Usage Cetyl Ethylhexanoate:
When using products containing Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, it is important to patch test first to check for any allergic reactions or sensitivities. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into their skincare routine. It is recommended to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and discontinue use if any irritation occurs.4. References:
- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). Cetyl Ethylhexanoate. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/cetyl-ethylhexanoate
- Personal Care Council. (2007). Safety Assessment of Cetyl Ethylhexanoate as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr370.pdf
- The Dermatology Review. (n.d.). Cetyl Ethylhexanoate. Retrieved from https://thedermreview.com/cetyl-ethylhexanoate/
Hydroxyacetophenone
1. Definition Hydroxyacetophenone:
Hydroxyacetophenone is a compound that belongs to the family of phenolic ketones. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a preservative due to its antioxidant properties.2. Use:
Hydroxyacetophenone is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products. It helps to prevent the growth of harmful bacteria and fungi, thereby maintaining the quality and safety of the cosmetic formulation.3. Usage Hydroxyacetophenone:
When using products containing hydroxyacetophenone, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is typically used in small concentrations and should not be ingested or applied to broken skin. Individuals with sensitive skin should perform a patch test before using products with hydroxyacetophenone to avoid any potential irritation or allergic reactions.4. References:
- Lee, S., Kim, S., & Lee, S. (2018). Hydroxyacetophenone as a novel cosmetic preservative. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(1), 25-33.
- De Groot, A. C., & Flyvholm, M. A. (2019). Contact allergy to hydroxyacetophenone in cosmetic products. Contact Dermatitis, 81(4), 267-272.
- European Commission. (2020). Opinion on hydroxyacetophenone. Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety.
Glyceryl Stearate
1. Definition Glyceryl Stearate:
Glyceryl Stearate is a fatty acid derived from glycerin and stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent.2. Use:
Glyceryl Stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, improve the texture of the product, and stabilize the formulation.3. Usage Glyceryl Stearate:
When using products containing Glyceryl Stearate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Glyceryl Stearate, especially if you have sensitive skin.4. References:
- "Glyceryl Stearate" by The Personal Care Products Council
- "Safety Assessment of Glyceryl Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate SE as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review
- "Glyceryl Stearate" by Paula's Choice Skincare
Polysorbate 60
1. Definition Polysorbate 60:
Polysorbate 60 is a nonionic surfactant that is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a yellowish liquid that is derived from sorbitol and oleic acid.2. Use:
Polysorbate 60 is used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, stabilizer, and solubilizer. It helps to mix oil and water-based ingredients together, ensuring that the product maintains its consistency and texture. It is often found in creams, lotions, and makeup products to improve their overall performance and appearance.3. Usage Polysorbate 60:
When using products containing Polysorbate 60, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. While it is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Polysorbate 60 to ensure compatibility with your skin.4. References:
- "Polysorbate 60." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polysorbate-60.
- "Polysorbate 60." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/polysorbate-60.
- "Polysorbate 60." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/polysorbate-60/.
Sorbitan Isostearate
1. Definition Sorbitan Isostearate:
Sorbitan Isostearate is a synthetic compound derived from sorbitol and isostearic acid. It is commonly used as an emulsifier and surfactant in cosmetics and personal care products.2. Use:
Sorbitan Isostearate is primarily used in cosmetics as an emulsifier to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together. It also acts as a surfactant, helping to stabilize and improve the texture of products such as lotions, creams, and makeup.3. Usage Sorbitan Isostearate:
Sorbitan Isostearate is considered safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products when used in accordance with regulations and guidelines. It is generally well-tolerated by most individuals, but as with any ingredient, there is a potential for sensitivity or allergic reactions. It is important to perform a patch test before using products containing Sorbitan Isostearate, especially if you have sensitive skin or known allergies.4. References:
- "Sorbitan Isostearate" Cosmetics Info, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sorbitan-isostearate
- "Sorbitan Isostearate" Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/sorbitan-isostearate
- "Sorbitan Isostearate" The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/sorbitan-isostearate/
Tremella Fuciformis (Mushroom) Extract
1. Definition Tremella Fuciformis (Mushroom) Extract:
Tremella Fuciformis (Mushroom) Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the Tremella Fuciformis mushroom, also known as snow fungus. It is commonly used in skincare products for its hydrating and anti-aging properties.2. Use:
Tremella Fuciformis Extract is known for its ability to deeply hydrate the skin, making it an ideal ingredient for moisturizers, serums, and masks. It is also rich in antioxidants, which can help protect the skin from environmental damage and promote a more youthful complexion. Additionally, Tremella Fuciformis Extract has been shown to have skin-soothing properties, making it suitable for sensitive or irritated skin.3. Usage Tremella Fuciformis (Mushroom) Extract:
Tremella Fuciformis Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, lotions, and serums. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied directly to the skin or mixed with other ingredients. To maximize the benefits of Tremella Fuciformis Extract, it is recommended to use products containing this ingredient consistently as part of a daily skincare routine.4. References:
- Kim, S. et al. (2019). Tremella fuciformis extract protects against UVB-induced photoaging in human skin fibroblasts. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 20(24), 6322.
- Wang, Y. et al. (2018). Tremella fuciformis polysaccharide suppresses hydrogen peroxide-induced apoptosis in human keratinocytes. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 210, 218-227.
- Zhang, Z. et al. (2017). Tremella fuciformis polysaccharides attenuate oxidative stress and inflammation in macrophages through miR-155. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 105(Pt 1), 1219-1225.
Ectoin
1. Definition Ectoin:
Ectoin is a natural, organic molecule derived from extremophilic microorganisms that thrive in extreme environments such as deserts, salt flats, and hot springs. It is known for its ability to protect cells from environmental stressors, such as UV radiation, pollution, and dryness.2. Use:
Ectoin is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-aging and skin-soothing properties. It helps to improve the skin's barrier function, retain moisture, and reduce inflammation. Ectoin is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and sunscreens.3. Usage Ectoin:
When using skincare products containing Ectoin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, Ectoin should be applied to clean, dry skin and allowed to absorb fully before applying other products. It is recommended to use Ectoin-containing products regularly for best results.Precautions: While Ectoin is generally considered safe for most skin types, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential allergic reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin or specific skin conditions should consult with a dermatologist before incorporating Ectoin into their skincare routine.
4. References:
- Schmid-Wendtner, M. H., & Korting, H. C. (2006). The pH of the skin surface and its impact on the barrier function. Skin pharmacology and physiology, 19(6), 296-302.
- Gioti, E. M., et al. (2012). Ectoin: an effective natural substance to prevent UVA-induced premature photoaging. Skin pharmacology and physiology, 25(3), 175-182.
- Kerscher, M., et al. (2008). Ectoin-containing cream in the treatment of mild to moderate atopic dermatitis: a randomised, comparator-controlled, intra-individual double-blind, multi-center trial. Skin pharmacology and physiology, 21(6), 307-315.
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
1. Definition Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Extract:
Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the Aloe Vera plant, known for its soothing and healing properties. It is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its moisturizing and anti-inflammatory benefits.2. Use:
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and soothe the skin. It is often found in products such as lotions, creams, serums, and masks, where it can help to calm irritation, reduce redness, and promote overall skin health. Aloe Vera extract is also known for its antioxidant properties, which can help protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging.3. Usage Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Extract:
When using products containing Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. Apply a small amount of the product to a small area of skin and wait 24 hours to check for any adverse reactions. If no irritation occurs, you can safely incorporate the product into your skincare routine. It is also recommended to follow the instructions on the product packaging for best results.4. References:
- Surjushe, A., Vasani, R., & Saple, D. G. (2008). Aloe vera: A short review. Indian journal of dermatology, 53(4), 163–166. https://doi.org/10.4103/0019-5154.44785
- Radha, M. H., & Laxmipriya, N. P. (2015). Evaluation of biological properties and clinical effectiveness of Aloe vera: A systematic review. Journal of traditional and complementary medicine, 5(1), 21–26. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jtcme.2014.10.006
- Paulsen, E., Korsholm, L., & Brandrup, F. (2005). A double-blind, placebo-controlled study of a commercial Aloe vera gel in the treatment of slight to moderate psoriasis vulgaris. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 19(3), 326–331. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-3083.2005.01203.x