Ingredient Explanation
1. Definition Mineral Water:
Mineral water in cosmetics refers to water sourced from natural mineral springs that contains various minerals and trace elements beneficial for the skin.
2. Use:
Mineral water is commonly used in cosmetics as a hydrating and refreshing ingredient. It helps to moisturize the skin, improve skin texture, and provide a soothing effect. Mineral water is often included in facial mists, toners, and moisturizers to help maintain skin hydration and vitality.
3. Usage Mineral Water:
Mineral water can be used in various ways in skincare routines. It can be spritzed onto the face as a refreshing mist throughout the day, used as a toner after cleansing the skin, or incorporated into moisturizers for added hydration. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin, and can be used daily as part of a skincare regimen.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.
- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic dermatology: principles and practice. McGraw-Hill Medical.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2012). Dry skin and moisturizers: chemistry and function. CRC Press.
Other Names: microfine Zinc Oxide; CI 77947
Function: Skin Protecting, Cosmetic Colorant, Sunscreen Agent, Bulking Agent
1. Definition Zinc Oxide:
Zinc Oxide is a mineral compound that is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing and protective properties. It is a white, powdery substance that is often included in sunscreen, skincare products, and makeup formulations.
2. Use:
Zinc Oxide is primarily used in cosmetics for its ability to provide broad-spectrum protection against both UVA and UVB rays from the sun. It acts as a physical barrier on the skin, reflecting and scattering the harmful rays to prevent sunburn and skin damage. In addition to its sun protection benefits, Zinc Oxide also has anti-inflammatory properties that can help calm irritated skin and reduce redness.
3. Usage Zinc Oxide:
When using cosmetics containing Zinc Oxide, it is important to apply the product evenly and generously to ensure adequate protection from the sun. Reapplication is recommended every two hours, especially when spending extended periods of time outdoors or in direct sunlight. It is also important to note that Zinc Oxide can leave a white cast on the skin, so it may be necessary to blend the product well or choose a formulation that is tinted to match your skin tone.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products (Cosmetic Science and Technology Series). CRC Press.
- Wang, S. Q., & Lim, H. W. (2007). Current status of the sunscreen regulation in the United States: 2011 Food and Drug Administration's final rule on labeling and effectiveness testing. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 66(3), 489-496.
- Nasir, A., Kalam, A., Singh, P., & Sharma, K. (2019). Zinc oxide nanoparticles: a review of their biological synthesis, antimicrobial activity, uptake, translocation and biotransformation in plants. Journal of Materials Science, 54(2), 1016-1042.
Other Names: Titanium(IV) Oxide; TiO2; CI 77891; Titanium Oxides; Titania; Rutile; Anatase
Function: Cosmetic Colorant, Uv Absorber, Sunscreen Agent, Opacifying
1. Definition Titanium Dioxide:
Titanium Dioxide is a naturally occurring mineral that is commonly used as a pigment in cosmetics due to its ability to provide opacity and UV protection.
2. Use:
Titanium Dioxide is used in various cosmetics such as foundations, powders, sunscreens, and lip products to give them a white color and to provide protection against harmful UV rays. It is also used as a thickening agent in some formulations.
3. Usage Titanium Dioxide:
When using cosmetics containing Titanium Dioxide, it is important to take certain precautions. Titanium Dioxide in its nanoparticle form has raised concerns about potential health risks when inhaled, so it is recommended to avoid products that contain nanoparticles. Additionally, some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to Titanium Dioxide, so it is advisable to do a patch test before using a product containing this ingredient.
4. References:
- Lademann, J., Weigmann, H. J., Rickmeyer, C., Barthelmes, H., Schaefer, H., & Mueller, G. (1999). Penetration of titanium dioxide microparticles in a sunscreen formulation into the horny layer and the follicular orifice. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 12(5), 247-256.
- Tinkle, S. S., Antonini, J. M., Rich, B. A., Roberts, J. R., Salmen, R., DePree, K., ... & Adkins, E. J. (2003). Skin as a route of exposure and sensitization in chronic beryllium disease. Environmental Health Perspectives, 111(9), 1202-1208.
- Sadrieh, N., Wokovich, A. M., Gopee, N. V., Zheng, J., Haines, D., Parmiter, D., ... & Howard, P. C. (2010). Lack of significant dermal penetration of titanium dioxide from sunscreen formulations containing nano-and submicron-size TiO2 particles. Toxicological Sciences, 115(1), 156-166.
Other Names: 1-hexadecanol; Palmityl Alcohol; Hexadecyl Alcohol; Palmitoryl Alcohol; C16 Alcohol; Cetyl Alcohol
Function: Masking, Fragrance, Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Surfactant
1. Definition Cetyl Alcohol:
Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is derived from natural sources such as coconut or palm oil. It is a waxy substance that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and stabilizer.
2. Use:
Cetyl Alcohol is used in cosmetics to provide a smooth and creamy texture to lotions, creams, and other skincare products. It helps to soften and hydrate the skin, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers and body lotions. Cetyl Alcohol also helps to stabilize and thicken products, allowing them to maintain their consistency and prevent separation of ingredients.
3. Usage Cetyl Alcohol:
When using products containing Cetyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to this ingredient. While Cetyl Alcohol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with Cetyl Alcohol, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is important to follow the instructions for use provided by the manufacturer to ensure safe and effective application of the product.
4. References:
- "Cetyl Alcohol" by Cosmetics Info (https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/cetyl-alcohol)
- "Safety Assessment of Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, and Behenyl Alcohol as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/final_report_alcohols.pdf)
- "Cetyl Alcohol" by Paula's Choice Skincare Ingredient Dictionary (https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetyl-alcohol.html)
Function: Emollient, Emulsifying
1. Definition Glyceryl Stearate:
Glyceryl Stearate is a fatty acid derived from glycerin and stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent.
2. Use:
Glyceryl Stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, improve the texture of the product, and stabilize the formulation.
3. Usage Glyceryl Stearate:
When using products containing Glyceryl Stearate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Glyceryl Stearate, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- "Glyceryl Stearate" by The Personal Care Products Council
- "Safety Assessment of Glyceryl Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate SE as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review
- "Glyceryl Stearate" by Paula's Choice Skincare
Function: Surfactant, Emulsifying
1. Definition Laneth 16:
Laneth-16 is a synthetic compound commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant. It is derived from lanolin, a natural substance found in sheep's wool, but has been modified to improve its stability and performance in cosmetic formulations.
2. Use:
Laneth-16 is primarily used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, helping to blend together water and oil-based ingredients to create stable and uniform products. It also acts as a surfactant, reducing surface tension and allowing products to spread more easily on the skin.
3. Usage Laneth 16:
Laneth-16 is commonly found in a variety of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and serums. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but like any ingredient, it is important to follow recommended guidelines for usage. Precautions should be taken to avoid direct contact with eyes and mucous membranes, and individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing Laneth-16.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final report on the safety assessment of Lanolin and its derivatives. International Journal of Toxicology. 2001;20(Suppl 2):1-24.
- Personal Care Council. Laneth-16. Accessed from: https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/laneth-16/
- Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary. Laneth-16. Accessed from: https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/laneth-16
Function: Antimicrobial
1. Definition Colloidal Sulfur:
Colloidal Sulfur is a suspension of fine sulfur particles in a liquid base, typically water or oil. It is known for its anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antifungal properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products targeting acne, rosacea, eczema, and other skin conditions.
2. Use:
Colloidal Sulfur is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its ability to reduce inflammation, unclog pores, and combat acne-causing bacteria. It is often found in masks, cleansers, spot treatments, and creams designed to treat acne and other skin conditions. Additionally, it can help regulate excess oil production and promote a clearer, healthier complexion.
3. Usage Colloidal Sulfur:
When using products containing Colloidal Sulfur, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically applied topically to the affected areas of the skin, either as a spot treatment or as part of a skincare routine. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with Colloidal Sulfur to check for any potential allergic reactions or skin sensitivities. It is also important to avoid using products containing Colloidal Sulfur on broken or irritated skin.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2015). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.
- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic dermatology: principles and practice. McGraw Hill Professional.
- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327.
Function: Masking, Fragrance, Plasticizer, Denaturant , External Analgesic
1. Definition Camphor:
Camphor is a white crystalline substance derived from the wood of the camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora) or synthesized from turpentine oil. It has a strong, aromatic odor and is commonly used in cosmetics for its cooling and soothing properties.
2. Use:
Camphor is often used in cosmetics as a topical analgesic to relieve minor aches and pains, such as muscle soreness or insect bites. It is also added to skincare products for its antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties, making it beneficial for treating acne, eczema, and other skin conditions.
3. Usage Camphor:
When using camphor in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines and precautions to avoid any adverse reactions. Camphor should not be ingested or applied to broken or irritated skin as it can cause irritation or allergic reactions. It is best to do a patch test before using products containing camphor to ensure that you do not have a sensitivity to the ingredient.
4. References:
- Garg, A., & Garg, S. (2017). Camphor induced Stevens-Johnson syndrome: A rare case report. Indian Journal of Pharmacology, 49(5), 422-424.
- Reuter, J., Huyke, C., Casetti, F., Theek, C., Frank, U., Augustin, M., & Schempp, C. (2008). Anti-inflammatory potential of a lipolotion containing coriander oil in the ultraviolet erythema test. Journal of the German Society of Dermatology, 6(9), 847-851.
- Pattnaik, S., Subramanyam, V. R., Bapaji, M., & Kole, C. R. (1996). Antibacterial and antifungal activity of aromatic constituents of essential oils. Microbios, 89(358), 39-46.
Other Names: Salicylates; 2-hydroxybenzoic; Salicylic Acid; Beta Hydroxy Acid
Function: Masking, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Denaturant , Preservative, Skin Conditioning, Exfoliant, Antidandruff Agent, Antiacne Agent, Keratolytic, Corn/Callus/Wart Remover
1. Definition Salicylic Acid:
Salicylic Acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that is commonly used in skincare products for its exfoliating and anti-inflammatory properties. It works by penetrating the pores and breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells, helping to unclog pores and prevent acne breakouts.
2. Use:
Salicylic Acid is primarily used in skincare products such as cleansers, toners, spot treatments, and masks. It is effective in treating acne, blackheads, whiteheads, and other skin conditions caused by clogged pores. Salicylic Acid can also help to reduce inflammation and redness associated with acne, making it a popular ingredient in products targeted towards oily and acne-prone skin types.
3. Usage Salicylic Acid:
When using products containing Salicylic Acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration to avoid potential irritation or drying out of the skin. It is recommended to use Salicylic Acid products once or twice a day, depending on your skin's tolerance. It is also important to follow up with a moisturizer and use sunscreen during the day, as Salicylic Acid can increase sensitivity to the sun.
4. References:
- Kornhauser, A., Coelho, S. G., & Hearing, V. J. (2010). Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 3, 135–142. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S9042
- Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 455–461. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S84765
- Chien, A. L., Qi, J., Rainer, B., & Sachs, D. L. (2018). Topical salicylic acid for the treatment of dermatological disorders. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 17(6), 725–730. https://jddonline.com/articles/dermatology/S1545961618P0725X/1
Other Names: Bentonite Clay; Gelwhite L
Function: Opacifying, Viscosity Controlling, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Suspending Agent -Nonsurfactant
1. Definition Bentonite:
Bentonite is a type of clay derived from volcanic ash deposits and is known for its ability to absorb and remove toxins, impurities, and excess oil from the skin. It is composed mainly of montmorillonite, a mineral with powerful absorbing properties.
2. Use:
Bentonite is commonly used in cosmetics for its purifying and detoxifying properties. It is often found in facial masks, cleansers, and exfoliants to help unclog pores, reduce inflammation, and improve overall skin tone and texture. Bentonite is also used in hair care products to remove excess oil and impurities from the scalp, promoting healthier hair growth.
3. Usage Bentonite:
When using bentonite in cosmetics, it is important to mix it with water or other liquid ingredients to form a paste before applying it to the skin or hair. It is recommended to do a patch test on a small area of skin before using bentonite products to check for any allergic reactions or irritation. Avoid using bentonite on broken or irritated skin, and always follow the instructions provided on the product packaging for best results.
4. References:
- Chauhan, A., & Chauhan, P. (2019). Bentonite Clay as a Natural Remedy: A Brief Review. Journal of Traditional and Complementary Medicine, 9(3), 184-189.
- Williams, L. B., & Haydel, S. E. (2010). Evaluation of the medicinal use of clay minerals as antibacterial agents. International Geology Review, 52(7/8), 745-770.
- Singh, M., & Singh, S. (2017). Bentonite Clay as a Natural Remedy: A Review. Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemistry, 6(1), 295-299.
Other Names: Vitamin A1
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Retinol:
Retinol is a form of vitamin A that is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties. It is a potent ingredient that can help improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more youthful complexion.
2. Use:
Retinol is commonly used in anti-aging skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is known for its ability to increase cell turnover, stimulate collagen production, and improve skin tone and texture. Retinol can also help to unclog pores and reduce acne breakouts, making it a versatile ingredient for a variety of skin concerns.
3. Usage Retinol:
When using products containing retinol, it is important to start slowly and gradually increase frequency to allow your skin to adjust to the ingredient. Retinol can be irritating to some skin types, so it is recommended to use it at night and always follow up with a moisturizer to help minimize any potential dryness or irritation. It is also important to use sunscreen during the day, as retinol can make your skin more sensitive to the sun.
4. References:
- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348.
- Kong, R., Cui, Y., Fisher, G. J., & Wang, X. (2016). The role of retinoids in the treatment of photoaging. Molecules, 21(8), 100.
- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348.
Other Names: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Function: Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient
1. Definition Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a combination of fatty acids derived from coconut oil and glycerin. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.
2. Use:
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is used in various cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums to provide moisturization and improve the texture of the skin. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and nourished.
3. Usage Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some precautions should be taken. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride into their skincare routine.
4. References:
- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/capryliccapric-triglyceride.
- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/caprylic-capric-triglyceride/.
- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/capryliccapric-triglyceride.
Other Names: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol
Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant
1. Definition Glycerin:
Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.
2. Use:
Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.
3. Usage Glycerin:
When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.
Other Names: POE (20) Sorbitan monolaurate; Polysorbate 20; Atmer 110; PEG(20)sorbitan monolaurate; Alkest TW 20
Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant
1. Definition Polysorbate 20:
Polysorbate 20 is a type of nonionic surfactant that is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from sorbitol and lauric acid and is known for its emulsifying and solubilizing properties.
2. Use:
Polysorbate 20 is primarily used as an emulsifier in cosmetics to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together. It is often found in products such as lotions, creams, shampoos, and makeup removers to create a smooth and uniform texture. Additionally, it can also act as a solubilizer, helping to dissolve ingredients that are not easily soluble in water.
3. Usage Polysorbate 20:
When using products containing polysorbate 20, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with polysorbate 20 to determine if any adverse reactions occur. Additionally, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective use.
4. References:
- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). Polysorbate 20. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polysorbate-20
- Personal Care Council. (2019). Polysorbate 20. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-dictionary/ingredient/2477
- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2009). Polysorbate 20. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Polysorbate-20
Function: Masking, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient
1. Definition Cetyl Palmitate:
Cetyl Palmitate is a fatty acid derived from cetyl alcohol and palmitic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and emulsifier, helping to soften and smooth the skin while also stabilizing the product.
2. Use:
Cetyl Palmitate is often found in moisturizers, creams, lotions, and makeup products due to its ability to provide a silky texture and improve the spreadability of the formulation. It is also used in hair care products to condition and soften the hair.
3. Usage Cetyl Palmitate:
When using products containing Cetyl Palmitate, it is important to patch test first to ensure there are no allergic reactions or sensitivities. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to avoid products with high concentrations of this ingredient.
4. References:
- "Cetyl Palmitate" by Cosmetics Info, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/cetyl-palmitate
- "Cetyl Palmitate" by Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/cetyl-palmitate
- "Cetyl Palmitate" by Paula's Choice Skincare, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetyl-palmitate.html
Function: Surfactant, Emulsifying, Cleansing
1. Definition Laureth 23:
Laureth 23 is a polyethylene glycol ether of lauryl alcohol, commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products as an emulsifier, surfactant, and cleansing agent. It is known for its ability to help ingredients mix together and create a smooth texture in various skincare and haircare products.
2. Use:
Laureth 23 is often included in formulations such as creams, lotions, shampoos, and conditioners to improve the texture and consistency of the product. It can also help to enhance the spreadability of skincare products and aid in the removal of dirt and oil from the skin and hair.
3. Usage Laureth 23:
When using products containing Laureth 23, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing Laureth 23 to ensure compatibility with your skin.
4. References:
- Steinmetz, W. E., & Vogt, T. C. (2016). Surfactants in consumer products: Theory, technology and application. Springer.
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2005). Final report on the safety assessment of laureth-23. International Journal of Toxicology, 24(4), 79-94.
- Personal Care Products Council. (2020). Safety Assessment of Laureth-23. Retrieved from https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr766.pdf
Function: Surfactant, Emulsifying
1. Definition Trideceth 6 Phosphate:
Trideceth-6 Phosphate is an emulsifying agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a phosphate ester of trideceth-6, a polyethylene glycol ether of tridecyl alcohol, which helps to stabilize oil-in-water emulsions.
2. Use:
Trideceth-6 Phosphate is primarily used as an emulsifier in various skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums. It helps to blend oil and water-based ingredients together, creating a smooth and uniform texture in the final product. This ingredient also helps to improve the overall stability and shelf-life of the formulation.
3. Usage Trideceth 6 Phosphate:
Trideceth-6 Phosphate is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in accordance with the recommended guidelines. It is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and not exceed the recommended concentration levels to avoid any potential irritation or adverse effects on the skin. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- "Trideceth-6 Phosphate" in CosmeticsInfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/trideceth-6-phosphate
- "Safety Assessment of Trideceth-6 Phosphate as Used in Cosmetics" in the International Journal of Toxicology, https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/1091581819840795
- "Trideceth-6 Phosphate in Cosmetics" in Personal Care Magazine, https://www.personalcaremagazine.com/story/32137/trideceth-6-phosphate-in-cosmetics
Other Names: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE
Function: Fragrance, Preservative
1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:
Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.
2. Use:
Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.
3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:
When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.
Other Names: TEA; Triethanoamine; Triethanolamide; Trolamine; Sterolamide
Function: Masking, Fragrance, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant
1. Definition Triethanolamine:
Triethanolamine, also known as TEA, is a viscous organic compound that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, pH adjuster, and fragrance ingredient. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a slight ammonia-like odor.
2. Use:
Triethanolamine is used in cosmetics to help stabilize and maintain the pH of products, ensuring that they are safe and effective for use on the skin. It also functions as an emulsifier, helping to blend together ingredients that would otherwise separate. Additionally, triethanolamine can be found in some cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient, providing a pleasant scent to the product.
3. Usage Triethanolamine:
While triethanolamine is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, there are some precautions to keep in mind. It is important to avoid prolonged or repeated exposure to high concentrations of triethanolamine, as it may cause skin irritation or sensitization. It is recommended to use products containing triethanolamine as directed and to discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur. Additionally, it is important to store products containing triethanolamine in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their stability.
4. References:
- Cosmeticsinfo.org. (n.d.). Triethanolamine. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/triethanolamine
- Personal Care Products Council. (2013). Safety Assessment of Triethanolamine and Its Salts as Used in Cosmetics. https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr108.pdf
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21: Triethanolamine. https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=73.2120
Other Names: Ceramide III; Ceramide NP
Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Ceramide 3:
Ceramide 3 is a type of lipid molecule that is naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, known as the stratum corneum. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier function and preventing moisture loss.
2. Use:
Ceramide 3 is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its moisturizing and skin barrier repair properties. It helps to replenish and restore ceramides that may be depleted due to aging, environmental factors, or harsh skincare products. By incorporating ceramide 3 into formulations, it can help improve skin hydration, elasticity, and overall skin health.
3. Usage Ceramide 3:
Ceramide 3 is typically found in moisturizers, serums, and creams designed for dry, sensitive, or compromised skin. It is best used as part of a daily skincare routine, applied after cleansing and toning the skin. Ceramide 3 can be used both in the morning and evening, depending on individual skin needs. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns or specific skin conditions.
4. References:
- Choi MJ, Maibach HI. Role of ceramides in barrier function of healthy and diseased skin. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(4):215-223. doi:10.2165/00128071-200506040-00001
- Bouwstra JA, Ponec M. The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state. Biochim Biophys Acta. 2006;1758(12):2080-2095. doi:10.1016/j.bbamem.2006.06.021
- Joo KM, Lee JH, Jeon YJ, Kim YS, Kim JH. Ceramide 3 enhances the protective function of the skin barrier. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2016;38(1):13-18. doi:10.1111/ics.12248
Other Names: Octoxyglycerin
Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:
Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.
2. Use:
Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.
3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:
Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.
4. References:
- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.
- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.
- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.
Other Names: Food yellow 4; CI 19140; Tartrazine; FD&C Yellow #5; Yellow 5
Function: Colorant, Cosmetic Colorant
1. Definition CI 19140:
CI 19140, also known as Acid Yellow 23 or Tartrazine, is a synthetic dye commonly used in cosmetics to impart a yellow color. It is water-soluble and belongs to the class of azo dyes.
2. Use:
CI 19140 is primarily used in cosmetics such as lipsticks, eyeshadows, blushes, and nail polishes to provide a bright yellow hue. It can also be found in hair dyes, soaps, and skincare products.
3. Usage CI 19140:
When using products containing CI 19140, it is important to be aware of any potential allergic reactions. Some individuals may be sensitive to synthetic dyes like CI 19140 and may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions upon contact. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this dye, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- Cosmeticsinfo.org. (n.d.). Tartrazine. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/tartrazine
- Personal Care Council. (2019). Color Additives Fact Sheet. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/resource/color-additives-fact-sheet/
- FDA. (2018). Color Additives Permitted for Use in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/color-additives-permitted-use-cosmetics
Other Names: Brillant blue FCF; Brilliant blue FCF; CI 42090; FD&C Blue 1 Aluminium Lake; FD&C Blue #1; Food Blue 2; Blue 1; Blue 1 Lake; Acid blue 9; Erioglaucine A; Acid Blue 9 Aluminum Lake
1. Definition Blue 1:
Blue 1, also known as FD&C Blue No. 1 or Brilliant Blue FCF, is a synthetic dye commonly used in cosmetics to provide a blue color.
2. Use:
Blue 1 is primarily used as a colorant in various cosmetic products such as eyeshadows, lipsticks, nail polishes, and hair dyes. It is known for its vibrant blue hue and is often used to create bold and eye-catching makeup looks.
3. Usage Blue 1:
Blue 1 is considered safe for use in cosmetics by regulatory bodies such as the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) in the United States and the European Union. However, it is important to note that some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to synthetic dyes like Blue 1, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient. Additionally, it is advisable to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the safety and efficacy of the product.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final Report on the Safety Assessment of FD&C Blue No. 1. International Journal of Toxicology. 2002;21(Suppl 3):15-41.
- Food and Drug Administration (FDA). Color Additives Permitted for Use in Cosmetics. Accessed from: https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/color-additives-permitted-use-cosmetics
- European Commission. CosIng Database. Accessed from: https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/
Function: Antiacne Agent, Oxidising Agent
1. Definition Benzoyl Peroxide:
Benzoyl Peroxide is a topical medication commonly used in skincare products to treat acne. It works by reducing the amount of acne-causing bacteria on the skin and helping to unclog pores.
2. Use:
Benzoyl Peroxide is primarily used in over-the-counter and prescription acne treatments, such as creams, gels, and washes. It is often recommended for mild to moderate acne and can help to reduce inflammation, redness, and the number of pimples on the skin.
3. Usage Benzoyl Peroxide:
When using products containing Benzoyl Peroxide, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer or healthcare provider. Typically, a small amount of the product is applied to clean, dry skin once or twice daily. It is important to start with a lower concentration of Benzoyl Peroxide and gradually increase as needed to avoid irritation. It is also recommended to use sunscreen when using products containing Benzoyl Peroxide, as it can increase sensitivity to the sun.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2016). Over-the-counter acne treatments. Dermatologic clinics, 34(2), 175-184.
- Zaenglein, A. L., Pathy, A. L., Schlosser, B. J., Alikhan, A., Baldwin, H. E., Berson, D. S., ... & Bhushan, R. (2016). Guidelines of care for the management of acne vulgaris. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 74(5), 945-973.
- Thiboutot, D., Dréno, B., Abanmi, A., Alexis, A., Araviiskaia, E., Barona Cabal, M. I., ... & Layton, A. M. (2019). Practical management of acne for clinicians: An international consensus from the Global Alliance to Improve Outcomes in Acne. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 81(3), 775-789.
Other Names: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua
Function: Solvent
1. Definition Water:
Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.
2. Use:
Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.
3. Usage Water:
When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.
- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.
- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice:
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, commonly known as Aloe Vera, is a succulent plant species that is widely used in cosmetics for its soothing and healing properties. The juice is extracted from the fleshy leaves of the plant and is rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants.
2. Use:
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice is used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and skin-soothing properties. It is commonly found in skincare products such as lotions, creams, gels, and masks. Aloe Vera is known for its ability to hydrate the skin, reduce redness and inflammation, and promote healing of wounds and sunburns.
3. Usage Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice:
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice can be applied topically to the skin as needed. It is generally safe for all skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Aloe Vera to ensure there is no allergic reaction. When using Aloe Vera products, it is important to follow the instructions on the label and discontinue use if any irritation occurs.
4. References:
- Surjushe, A., Vasani, R., & Saple, D. G. (2008). Aloe Vera: A short review. Indian Journal of Dermatology, 53(4), 163–166.
- Radha, M. H., Laxmipriya, N. P., & Amin, M. (2015). Aloe Vera: A short review. Indian Journal of Dermatology, 60(3), 260–268.
- Reynolds, T., & Dweck, A. C. (1999). Aloe Vera leaf gel: a review update. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 68(1-3), 3–37.
Other Names: melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil; melaleuca alternifolia oil; tea tree leaf oil; tea tree essential oil
Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Antioxidant
1. Definition Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil:
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil is a natural essential oil derived from the leaves of the Tea Tree plant. It is known for its antibacterial, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory properties.
2. Use:
Tea Tree Leaf Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to treat various skin conditions such as acne, eczema, and psoriasis. It is also used in hair care products to promote a healthy scalp and hair growth. Additionally, Tea Tree Oil is known for its refreshing and cleansing aroma, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.
3. Usage Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil:
When using Tea Tree Leaf Oil in cosmetics, it is important to dilute it properly as it can be irritating to the skin when used in high concentrations. It is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to the skin to check for any allergic reactions. Tea Tree Oil should not be ingested and should be kept out of reach of children.
4. References:
- Carson, C. F., Hammer, K. A., & Riley, T. V. (2006). Melaleuca alternifolia (Tea Tree) oil: a review of antimicrobial and other medicinal properties. Clinical Microbiology Reviews, 19(1), 50-62.
- Hammer, K. A., Carson, C. F., & Riley, T. V. (2012). Antifungal activity of the components of Melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree) oil. Journal of Applied Microbiology, 95(4), 853-860.
- Pazyar, N., Yaghoobi, R., Bagherani, N., & Kazerouni, A. (2013). A review of applications of tea tree oil in dermatology. International Journal of Dermatology, 52(7), 784-790.
Other Names: Carboxypolymethylene; Carbopol; Cabomer
Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming
1. Definition Carbomer:
Carbomer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and stabilizer. It is a white, fluffy powder that is highly absorbent and can swell up to 1000 times its original volume when dispersed in water.
2. Use:
Carbomer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, gels, and serums. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the stability of emulsions, and enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Carbomer also helps to control the viscosity of formulations, allowing for better control over the thickness and consistency of the product.
3. Usage Carbomer:
When using products containing Carbomer, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. Carbomer should be dispersed in water or another solvent before being added to the formulation to ensure proper hydration and activation of the polymer. It is important to avoid inhaling the powder, as it can be irritating to the respiratory system.
4. References:
- Sharma, A., & Jain, A. (2012). Carbomers: A review. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 3(3), 805-814.
- Liao, Y., & Wang, J. (2017). Carbomer: A versatile polymer in pharmaceutical applications. Polymer Chemistry, 8(3), 355-366.
- Patel, D. (2015). Carbomer in pharmaceuticals: A review. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, 4(2), 121-133.
Function: Fragrance, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil:
Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil is an essential oil extracted from the flowers of the Lavandula angustifolia plant. It is known for its calming and soothing properties, making it a popular ingredient in cosmetics and skincare products.
2. Use:
Lavender oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its aromatic and therapeutic benefits. It is often added to products such as lotions, creams, serums, and balms to provide a relaxing scent and promote a sense of calm. Lavender oil is also known for its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, making it a valuable ingredient for treating skin conditions such as acne, eczema, and dryness.
3. Usage Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil:
When using lavender oil in cosmetics, it is important to dilute it properly to avoid skin irritation or sensitization. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using any product containing lavender oil to ensure that you do not have an allergic reaction. Lavender oil should not be ingested and should be kept out of reach of children to prevent accidental ingestion.
4. References:
- Ali, B., Al-Wabel, N. A., Shams, S., Ahamad, A., Khan, S. A., & Anwar, F. (2015). Essential oils used in aromatherapy: A systemic review. Asian Pacific Journal of Tropical Biomedicine, 5(8), 601-611.
- Cavanagh, H. M., & Wilkinson, J. M. (2002). Biological activities of lavender essential oil. Phytotherapy Research, 16(4), 301-308.
- Koulivand, P. H., Khaleghi Ghadiri, M., & Gorji, A. (2013). Lavender and the nervous system. Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine, 2013, 681304.
Function: Emollient
1. Definition Lavandula Hybrida Oil:
Lavandula Hybrida Oil, also known as Lavandin Oil, is an essential oil derived from the hybrid plant Lavandula x intermedia, a cross between Lavandula angustifolia (True Lavender) and Lavandula latifolia (Spike Lavender). It is known for its sweet, floral aroma and is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing and calming properties.
2. Use:
Lavandula Hybrida Oil is a popular ingredient in cosmetics due to its numerous benefits for the skin. It has anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antifungal properties, making it effective in treating acne, eczema, and other skin conditions. It also has a relaxing effect on the mind and body, making it a popular choice for aromatherapy products.
3. Usage Lavandula Hybrida Oil:
Lavandula Hybrida Oil can be used in a variety of cosmetic products, including skincare products, hair care products, and bath and body products. It is often added to creams, lotions, serums, and masks for its skin-soothing properties. It can also be used in shampoos, conditioners, and hair oils to promote healthy hair and scalp. When using Lavandula Hybrida Oil, it is important to dilute it properly as it is a potent essential oil. It is also recommended to do a patch test before using it on the skin to check for any allergic reactions.
4. References:
- Buchbauer, G., Jirovetz, L., Jager, W., & Plank, C. (1991). Aromatherapy: evidence for sedative effects of the essential oil of lavender after inhalation. Zeitschrift fur Naturforschung C, 46(11-12), 1067-1072.
- Cavanagh, H. M., & Wilkinson, J. M. (2002). Biological activities of lavender essential oil. Phytotherapy Research, 16(4), 301-308.
- Koulivand, P. H., Khaleghi Ghadiri, M., & Gorji, A. (2013). Lavender and the nervous system. Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine, 2013.
Other Names: NaOH
Function: Denaturant , pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent
1. Definition Sodium Hydroxide:
Sodium Hydroxide, also known as lye or caustic soda, is a highly alkaline compound that is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, emulsifier, and cleansing agent.
2. Use:
Sodium Hydroxide is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, ensuring that the product is within the desired range for optimal skin compatibility. It is also used as an emulsifier to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together, creating stable and uniform products. Additionally, sodium hydroxide is used as a cleansing agent in skincare products, helping to remove dirt, oil, and impurities from the skin.
3. Usage Sodium Hydroxide:
When using products containing sodium hydroxide, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. Avoid direct contact with the eyes, as it can cause irritation or burns. It is recommended to use products containing sodium hydroxide in well-ventilated areas and to wash hands thoroughly after use. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and seek medical advice.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2013). Final report on the safety assessment of sodium hydroxide. International Journal of Toxicology, 32(1), 59S-80S.
- Personal Care Products Council. (2020). Sodium Hydroxide. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/sodium-hydroxide/
- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). Sodium Hydroxide. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Sodium-hydroxide
Other Names: Capryl Glycol; 1,2-Octanediol; 1,2-Dihydroxyoctane; 1,2-Octylene glycol
Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient
1. Definition Caprylyl Glycol:
Caprylyl Glycol is a skin conditioning agent and emollient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from caprylic acid, which is found in coconut and palm oils.
2. Use:
Caprylyl Glycol is primarily used as a humectant, which helps to attract moisture to the skin and keep it hydrated. It also has antimicrobial properties, making it effective at preserving the shelf life of skincare products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, Caprylyl Glycol can enhance the texture of products, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft.
3. Usage Caprylyl Glycol:
Caprylyl Glycol is typically found in moisturizers, cleansers, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Caprylyl Glycol to their entire face. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the effectiveness and safety of the product.
4. References:
- Monkare J, Maczka W, Matuszak Ż, et al. Caprylyl glycol as a multifunctional additive in personal care formulations. Cosmetics. 2020;7(1):17. doi:10.3390/cosmetics7010017
- Lodeiro C, Margus T, Pinto S, et al. Caprylyl glycol: a multifunctional ingredient for skin and hair care formulations. SOFW J. 2017;143(11):42-48.
- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: moisturizers. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(9):s27-s30.