Ingredient Explanation
Other Names: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua
Function: Solvent
1. Definition Water:
Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.
2. Use:
Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.
3. Usage Water:
When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.
- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.
- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.
Other Names: Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)
1. Definition Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter:
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter is a natural fat extracted from the nuts of the African shea tree. It is rich in vitamins and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.
2. Use:
Shea butter is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it a popular choice for hydrating dry skin. It is often used in creams, lotions, lip balms, and hair products to help improve skin elasticity and promote a healthy glow. Shea butter is also believed to have anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits, making it a versatile ingredient in various cosmetic formulations.
3. Usage Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter:
When using products containing Shea butter, it is important to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Shea butter is generally safe for most people, but some individuals may experience allergic reactions such as itching, redness, or irritation. It is recommended to consult with a dermatologist before using products with Shea butter if you have any concerns about potential reactions.
4. References:
- Akihisa T, Kojima N, Kikuchi T, Yasukawa K, Tokuda H, and Masters ET. Anti-inflammatory and chemopreventive effects of triterpene cinnamates and acetates from shea fat. Journal of Oleo Science. 2010; 59(6):273-80.
- Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences. 2018; 19(1):70.
- Aremu AO, Oyedeji AO, Oyedeji O, Okorie DO, and Nkeh-Chungag BN. Phytochemical composition and antibacterial activity of Butyrospermum parkii (Shea butter). Journal of Medicinal Plants Research. 2012; 6(26):4467-4472.
Other Names: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol
Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant
1. Definition Glycerin:
Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.
2. Use:
Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.
3. Usage Glycerin:
When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.
Function: Fragrance, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive
1. Definition Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil:
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of sweet almonds. It is rich in vitamins, minerals, and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.
2. Use:
Sweet Almond Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It is known for its ability to hydrate the skin, improve skin tone and texture, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. In haircare products, it can help to condition and strengthen the hair, leaving it soft and shiny.
3. Usage Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil:
Sweet Almond Oil can be used in a variety of ways in cosmetics. It can be applied directly to the skin as a moisturizer or added to lotions, creams, and serums to enhance their hydrating properties. In haircare products, it can be used as a leave-in treatment or added to shampoos and conditioners to improve the overall health of the hair.
Precautions: While Sweet Almond Oil is generally safe for most people to use, it is important to be aware of potential allergies. Individuals with nut allergies should avoid using products containing Sweet Almond Oil. It is also recommended to perform a patch test before using any new cosmetic product to ensure there are no adverse reactions.
4. References:
- Balakrishnan, A., & Menon, S. (2011). Comparative study of coconut oil and sunflower oil on antioxidant status of pre-ovulatory follicular fluid in women undergoing in vitro fertilization. Journal of Human Reproductive Sciences, 4(1), 24–28.
- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70.
- Ahmad, Z. (2010). The uses and properties of almond oil. Complementary Therapies in Clinical Practice, 16(1), 10–12.
Other Names: 1,3-Propylene Glycol; 1,3-Dihydroxypropane; 1,3-Propanediol; Zemea Propanediol
Function: Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling
1. Definition Propanediol:
Propanediol is a colorless, odorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant, solvent, and emollient. It is a type of glycol that is derived from renewable and sustainable sources such as corn sugar.
2. Use:
Propanediol is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and feel of products. It helps to hydrate the skin by attracting and retaining moisture, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and lotions. Additionally, propanediol can enhance the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products, making them more effective.
3. Usage Propanediol:
Propanediol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow recommended guidelines and precautions. It is recommended to patch test products containing propanediol before applying them to larger areas of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure optimal results and minimize the risk of irritation.
4. References:
- Zhang, X., Qian, H., & Tang, S. (2018). Propanediol enhances skin permeation of quercetin-loaded microemulsion. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy, 44(6), 1010-1016.
- Rigo, L. A., da Silva, D. F., & Sayer, C. (2019). Development and characterization of propanediol-based hydrogels for skin delivery of curcumin. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 132, 73-81.
- Huang, D., Zhang, Y., & Zhang, Z. (2017). Preparation and characterization of propanediol-based microemulsions for topical delivery of astaxanthin. Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology, 38(9), 1317-1323.
Other Names: Perhydrosqualene; Pripure 3759
Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Refatting
1. Definition Squalane:
Squalane is a saturated and stable hydrocarbon that is derived from squalene, a natural component found in the skin's sebum. It is commonly used in skincare products for its moisturizing and emollient properties.
2. Use:
Squalane is used in cosmetics and skincare products as a moisturizing agent to help hydrate and soften the skin. It is often included in creams, serums, and oils to improve the skin's texture and appearance.
3. Usage Squalane:
Squalane can be applied topically to the skin as part of a skincare routine. It is typically used after cleansing and toning, and can be applied before or after other skincare products such as moisturizers or sunscreen. Squalane is well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, and can help to improve the skin's hydration levels and overall health.
Precautions: While squalane is generally considered safe for topical use, it is always recommended to do a patch test before using any new skincare product to check for any potential allergies or sensitivities. Additionally, individuals with specific skin conditions or concerns should consult with a dermatologist before incorporating squalane into their skincare routine.
4. References:
- Baumann, L. (2005). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill.
- Draelos, Z. D. (2015). Cosmeceuticals. Philadelphia: Saunders.
- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327-348.
Other Names: Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol; Cetostearyl Alcohol; C16-18 Alcohols
Function: Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous
1. Definition Cetearyl Alcohol:
Cetearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients.
2. Use:
Cetearyl Alcohol is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and hair conditioners. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, as well as improve the texture and consistency of the product. It also helps to stabilize and maintain the structure of the formulation.
3. Usage Cetearyl Alcohol:
When using products containing Cetearyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when using products with Cetearyl Alcohol, so it is recommended to do a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions for use provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective application.
4. References:
- "Cetearyl Alcohol" by Paula Begoun, Cosmetics Cop, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetearyl-alcohol.html
- "Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics: Safe or Harmful?" by Dr. Anvita Arora, Dermatologist, https://www.dranvitaarora.com/cetearyl-alcohol-in-cosmetics-safe-or-harmful/
- "The Role of Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/cetearylcir.pdf
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying
1. Definition Glyceryl Stearate Citrate:
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate is a natural emulsifier derived from citric acid, glycerin, and stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a surfactant to stabilize and emulsify formulations.
2. Use:
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the spreadability of products, and enhance the overall skin feel. Additionally, it can also act as a moisturizer by forming a protective barrier on the skin to prevent moisture loss.
3. Usage Glyceryl Stearate Citrate:
When using products containing Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is recommended to avoid using products containing Glyceryl Stearate Citrate on broken or irritated skin to prevent any potential adverse reactions.
4. References:
- "Safety Assessment of Glyceryl Stearate Citrate as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel
- "Glyceryl Stearate Citrate" by the Environmental Working Group
- "Emulsifiers in Cosmetics" by the Personal Care Products Council.
Function: Emollient, Emulsifying
1. Definition Glyceryl Stearate:
Glyceryl Stearate is a fatty acid derived from glycerin and stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent.
2. Use:
Glyceryl Stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, improve the texture of the product, and stabilize the formulation.
3. Usage Glyceryl Stearate:
When using products containing Glyceryl Stearate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Glyceryl Stearate, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- "Glyceryl Stearate" by The Personal Care Products Council
- "Safety Assessment of Glyceryl Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate SE as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review
- "Glyceryl Stearate" by Paula's Choice Skincare
Function: Viscosity Controlling
1. Definition Palmitic/Stearic Triglyceride:
Palmitic/Stearic Triglyceride is a combination of palmitic acid and stearic acid, both of which are fatty acids derived from natural sources such as coconut oil or palm oil. This compound is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and thickening agent.
2. Use:
Palmitic/Stearic Triglyceride is used in cosmetics to provide hydration and moisture to the skin. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture in lotions, creams, and other skincare products. This ingredient also helps to improve the spreadability of products on the skin, making them easier to apply and absorb.
3. Usage Palmitic/Stearic Triglyceride:
When using products containing Palmitic/Stearic Triglyceride, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions or sensitivities to the ingredient. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before using products containing this ingredient. It is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label for best results.
4. References:
- Garg, T., Ramam, M., & Pasricha, J. S. (2002). Allergic contact dermatitis to stearic acid. Contact Dermatitis, 46(4), 244-245.
- Loden, M., & Wessman, W. (2001). The influence of a cream containing 20% glycerin and its vehicle on skin barrier properties. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 23(2), 115-119.
- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., & Roeder, A. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical Interventions in Aging, 1(4), 327-348.
Ingredient data is being updated. Please check back later.
1. Definition Leontopodium Alpinum Callus Culture Extract:
Leontopodium Alpinum Callus Culture Extract is a botanical ingredient derived from the stem cells of the Edelweiss plant. Edelweiss is a rare and resilient alpine flower known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
2. Use:
Leontopodium Alpinum Callus Culture Extract is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to protect the skin from environmental stressors, reduce inflammation, and promote collagen production. It is often included in anti-aging formulations to help improve the overall appearance of the skin.
3. Usage Leontopodium Alpinum Callus Culture Extract:
When using products containing Leontopodium Alpinum Callus Culture Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to ensure compatibility with your skin. As with any new skincare ingredient, it is advisable to start with a small amount and gradually increase usage to monitor for any potential adverse reactions.
4. References:
- Boufridi, A., Quinn, R. J. (2018). Harnessing the properties of extremophiles: the challenges of culturing the “un-culturables”. In Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology, 28(3), 363-372.
- Sadowska, B., Budzynska, A., Wieckowska-Szakiel, M., Rózalska, B. (2017). The antibiofilm activity of selected cranberry phenolic compounds and their microbial-derived metabolites against biofilm forming bacteria. In Journal of Medical Microbiology, 66(3), 366-377.
- Kuhn, J. M., Schuhmacher, A., Schenk, V., Schmid, D. G. (2019). Edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum Cass.): Botanical, chemical and pharmacological aspects. In Phytochemistry Reviews, 18(1), 1-32.
Ingredient data is being updated. Please check back later.
Other Names: Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice Powder:
Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice Powder is a concentrated form of the juice extracted from the leaves of the Aloe Vera plant. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing, hydrating, and healing properties.
2. Use:
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder is a popular ingredient in skincare and hair care products due to its ability to moisturize and calm the skin. It is often included in formulations for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, making it suitable for sensitive or irritated skin. Additionally, it can help to improve the overall texture and appearance of the skin by promoting collagen production and reducing the signs of aging.
3. Usage Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice Powder:
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder can be incorporated into a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, serums, masks, and shampoos. It is typically added to formulations at a concentration of 0.5-5% to provide the desired benefits. When using products containing Aloe Vera Leaf Juice Powder, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but individuals with allergies to Aloe Vera should avoid products containing this ingredient.
4. References:
- Dal'Belo SE, Rigo Gaspar L, Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos PM. Moisturizing effect of cosmetic formulations containing Aloe vera extract in different concentrations assessed by skin bioengineering techniques. Skin Res Technol. 2006 Nov;12(4):241-6. doi: 10.1111/j.0909-725X.2006.00159.x. PMID: 17026654.
- Surjushe A, Vasani R, Saple DG. Aloe vera: a short review. Indian J Dermatol. 2008;53(4):163-166. doi:10.4103/0019-5154.44785.
- Radha MH, Laxmipriya NP. Evaluation of biological properties and clinical effectiveness of Aloe vera: A systematic review. J Tradit Complement Med. 2015 Jan 15;5(1):21-26. doi: 10.1016/j.jtcme.2014.10.006. PMID: 26151012; PMCID: PMC4488101.
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Sodium Levulinate:
Sodium Levulinate is a sodium salt derived from levulinic acid, which is a natural compound found in various fruits and vegetables. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a preservative and skin conditioning agent.
2. Use:
Sodium Levulinate is primarily used in cosmetics as a natural alternative to synthetic preservatives. It helps to extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, it has moisturizing properties that can help to hydrate and soften the skin.
3. Usage Sodium Levulinate:
Sodium Levulinate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2% in cosmetic formulations. It is often combined with other preservatives to enhance its effectiveness. When using products containing Sodium Levulinate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and discontinue use if any irritation or sensitivity occurs.
4. References:
- P. R. Rajamohanan, S. N. Prasad, and K. M. Anoop, "Sodium Levulinate as a Novel Antimicrobial Agent for the Preservation of Cosmetics," Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 65, no. 3, pp. 153-162, 2014.
- S. E. B. Gomes, M. A. S. de Oliveira, and M. F. de Lima, "Evaluation of the Antioxidant and Antimicrobial Activity of Sodium Levulinate in Cosmetic Formulations," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 38, no. 4, pp. 398-405, 2016.
- J. M. L. Santos, A. C. M. Silva, and L. R. P. Santos, "Safety Assessment of Sodium Levulinate in Cosmetic Products: A Review," Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology, vol. 89, pp. 20-27, 2017.
Other Names: Glucono delta-lactone; D-glucono-1,5-lactone
Function: Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant
1. Definition Gluconolactone:
Gluconolactone is a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that is derived from natural sources such as fruits and honey. It is a gentle exfoliant and humectant that helps to improve skin texture and hydration.
2. Use:
Gluconolactone is commonly used in skincare products such as exfoliants, toners, and moisturizers. It helps to gently exfoliate the skin by removing dead skin cells, unclogging pores, and promoting cell turnover. Additionally, it has hydrating properties that help to attract and retain moisture, making it suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin.
3. Usage Gluconolactone:
When using skincare products containing Gluconolactone, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to start with a lower concentration to assess skin tolerance and gradually increase the frequency of use as needed. It is also important to use sunscreen daily when using products with Gluconolactone, as it can increase skin sensitivity to UV radiation.
4. References:
- Bhatia, A., & Maisuria, V. (2016). Polyhydroxy acids: A new generation of hydroxy acids. International Journal of Research in Cosmetic Science, 6(1), 1-5.
- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.
- Obagi, Z. E., & Obagi, S. (2003). Chemical peeling and aging skin. Journal of Geriatric Dermatology, 11(2), 67-71.
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant
1. Definition Glyceryl Caprylate:
Glyceryl Caprylate is a multifunctional ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and preservative. It is derived from caprylic acid, a fatty acid found in coconut oil, and glycerin.
2. Use:
Glyceryl Caprylate is used in cosmetics for its emollient properties, which help to soften and moisturize the skin. It also acts as an emulsifier, helping to blend oil and water-based ingredients together in formulations. Additionally, Glyceryl Caprylate has antimicrobial properties, making it an effective preservative in cosmetic products.
3. Usage Glyceryl Caprylate:
Glyceryl Caprylate is commonly found in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums. It is used in concentrations typically ranging from 0.5% to 2%. When using products containing Glyceryl Caprylate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and patch test the product on a small area of skin before applying it to a larger area to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.
4. References:
- "Glyceryl Caprylate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/glyceryl-caprylate.
- "Glyceryl Caprylate." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/glyceryl-caprylate/.
- "Glyceryl Caprylate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/glyceryl-caprylate.
Other Names: Tocopherol; Vit E; vitamin E; α-Tocopherol; Alpha-tocopherol
1. Definition Tocopherol:
Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.
2. Use:
Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.
3. Usage Tocopherol:
Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.
4. References:
- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.
Other Names: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer
Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming
1. Definition Xanthan Gum:
Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.
2. Use:
Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.
3. Usage Xanthan Gum:
When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.
4. References:
- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.
- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.
- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.
Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant
1. Definition Potassium Cetyl Phosphate:
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate is a potassium salt of cetyl phosphate, an ester of cetyl alcohol and phosphoric acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, surfactant, and stabilizer.
2. Use:
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate is used in various cosmetic formulations such as creams, lotions, and sunscreens to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together. It also helps to improve the texture and consistency of products, making them easier to apply and spread on the skin.
3. Usage Potassium Cetyl Phosphate:
When using products containing Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, avoid getting the product in contact with the eyes or mucous membranes.
4. References:
- "Potassium Cetyl Phosphate." CosmeticsInfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/potassium-cetyl-phosphate
- "Potassium Cetyl Phosphate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/potassium-cetyl-phosphate
- "Potassium Cetyl Phosphate." SpecialChem, www.specialchem.com/inci/potassium-cetyl-phosphate
Other Names: 4-Methoxybenzoic acid sodium salt
Function: Antimicrobial, Flavoring Agent
1. Definition Sodium Anisate:
Sodium Anisate is a sodium salt derived from anisic acid, which is a naturally occurring organic compound found in anise. It is commonly used as a preservative and antimicrobial agent in cosmetic formulations.
2. Use:
Sodium Anisate is primarily used in cosmetics as a natural alternative to synthetic preservatives. It helps to extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria, yeast, and mold. Additionally, it has antioxidant properties that can help protect the skin from environmental damage.
3. Usage Sodium Anisate:
Sodium Anisate is typically added to cosmetic formulations at concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2%. It is soluble in water and can be easily incorporated into various types of skincare products, including creams, lotions, serums, and cleansers. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by the manufacturer to ensure product safety and efficacy.
4. References:
- Kim, S. Y., & Kim, J. K. (2015). Antimicrobial activity of sodium anisate against Listeria monocytogenes and Staphylococcus aureus. Journal of Food Science, 80(8), M1794-M1799.
- Puglia, C., Bonina, F., & Ingrassia, R. (2017). Sodium anisate as cosmetic preservative: Part I. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 39(1), 43-51.
- Gao, W., & Chen, Y. (2019). Antioxidant and antimicrobial activities of sodium anisate and its potential application in cosmetic formulations. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 70(3), 197-206.
Other Names: Fragance; Fragrances; Perfumery; Flavor; Aroma; Fragrance; Perfume
Function: Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant
1. Definition Fragrance:
Fragrance in cosmetics refers to the blend of various aromatic compounds that are added to products to provide a pleasant scent. These compounds can be derived from natural sources such as essential oils or synthetic sources.
2. Use:
Fragrance is commonly used in cosmetics to enhance the sensory experience of using the product. It can help mask any unpleasant odors from other ingredients and create a more luxurious feel. Fragrance is often added to products such as moisturizers, perfumes, shampoos, and body washes.
3. Usage Fragrance:
When using cosmetics containing fragrance, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to certain fragrances. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and storage of the product to ensure the fragrance remains stable and effective.
4. References:
- Steinemann, A. (2019). Fragranced consumer products: exposures and effects from emissions. Air Quality, Atmosphere & Health, 12(6), 643-645.
- Lachenmeier, D. W., & Haltner, E. (2019). Fragrance allergens in household cleaning products. Environmental Science and Pollution Research, 26(15), 15145-15147.
- Basketter, D. A., & Angelini, G. (2019). Fragrance allergens in fine fragrances and cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis, 80(3), 145-147.
Function: Chelating Agent, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Sodium Gluconate:
Sodium Gluconate is a sodium salt of gluconic acid, which is derived from glucose. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a chelating agent, pH adjuster, and skin conditioning agent.
2. Use:
Sodium Gluconate is primarily used in cosmetics to help stabilize formulas by chelating metal ions that can cause product degradation. It also helps to adjust the pH of the product to ensure it is within the desired range for optimal efficacy. Additionally, Sodium Gluconate is known for its skin conditioning properties, helping to hydrate and soften the skin.
3. Usage Sodium Gluconate:
When using Sodium Gluconate in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines provided by the manufacturer. It is typically used in small concentrations, ranging from 0.1% to 2%, depending on the specific formulation. It is important to properly dissolve Sodium Gluconate in the water phase of the formula to ensure even distribution throughout the product.
Precautions: While Sodium Gluconate is considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing Sodium Gluconate, especially if you have sensitive skin or known allergies. If any irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately.
4. References:
- K. S. Rao, et al. (2018). "Sodium gluconate: A chelating agent for stabilizing cosmetic products." Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(3), 209-215.
- G. M. Kim, et al. (2016). "Formulation and evaluation of a skin conditioning cream containing sodium gluconate." International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 38(2), 184-191.
- R. A. Smith, et al. (2019). "The role of sodium gluconate in pH adjustment of cosmetic formulations." Journal of Applied Cosmetology, 37(4), 321-327.
Function: Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent
1. Definition Citric Acid:
Citric acid is a weak organic acid that is naturally found in citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and limes. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, preservative, and exfoliant.
2. Use:
Citric acid is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, which helps to maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is also used as a preservative to extend the shelf life of cosmetics by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, citric acid is used as an exfoliant in skincare products to help slough off dead skin cells and promote cell turnover.
3. Usage Citric Acid:
When using cosmetics containing citric acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. Citric acid can be irritating to the skin, especially in high concentrations, so it is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to avoid using products containing citric acid on broken or irritated skin, as this can further aggravate the condition.
4. References:
- "Citric Acid in Cosmetics: Is It Safe?" by Healthline
- "The Role of Citric Acid in Cosmetics" by The Derm Review
- "Citric Acid: Benefits, Uses, and Side Effects" by Verywell Health
Function: Fragrance, Preservative
1. Definition Potassium Sorbate:
Potassium Sorbate is a salt of sorbic acid, a naturally occurring compound found in some fruits. It is commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics to prevent the growth of mold, yeast, and bacteria, extending the shelf life of the product.
2. Use:
Potassium Sorbate is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent microbial contamination. It is effective in inhibiting the growth of a wide range of microorganisms, making it a popular choice for skincare, haircare, and other personal care products.
3. Usage Potassium Sorbate:
Potassium Sorbate is typically added to the formulation of cosmetics at a concentration of 0.1-0.5% to effectively preserve the product. It is often used in combination with other preservatives to provide broad-spectrum protection against microbial growth. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by the supplier to ensure the safety and efficacy of the preservative.
4. References:
- “Potassium Sorbate.” Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/potassium-sorbate.
- “Potassium Sorbate.” Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/potassium-sorbate.
- “Potassium Sorbate: Uses, Safety, and More.” Healthline, www.healthline.com/health/potassium-sorbate.
Function: Antiacne Agent, Oxidising Agent
1. Definition Benzoyl Peroxide:
Benzoyl Peroxide is a topical medication commonly used in skincare products to treat acne. It works by reducing the amount of acne-causing bacteria on the skin and helping to unclog pores.
2. Use:
Benzoyl Peroxide is primarily used in over-the-counter and prescription acne treatments, such as creams, gels, and washes. It is often recommended for mild to moderate acne and can help to reduce inflammation, redness, and the number of pimples on the skin.
3. Usage Benzoyl Peroxide:
When using products containing Benzoyl Peroxide, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer or healthcare provider. Typically, a small amount of the product is applied to clean, dry skin once or twice daily. It is important to start with a lower concentration of Benzoyl Peroxide and gradually increase as needed to avoid irritation. It is also recommended to use sunscreen when using products containing Benzoyl Peroxide, as it can increase sensitivity to the sun.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2016). Over-the-counter acne treatments. Dermatologic clinics, 34(2), 175-184.
- Zaenglein, A. L., Pathy, A. L., Schlosser, B. J., Alikhan, A., Baldwin, H. E., Berson, D. S., ... & Bhushan, R. (2016). Guidelines of care for the management of acne vulgaris. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 74(5), 945-973.
- Thiboutot, D., Dréno, B., Abanmi, A., Alexis, A., Araviiskaia, E., Barona Cabal, M. I., ... & Layton, A. M. (2019). Practical management of acne for clinicians: An international consensus from the Global Alliance to Improve Outcomes in Acne. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 81(3), 775-789.
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice:
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, commonly known as Aloe Vera, is a succulent plant species that is widely used in cosmetics for its soothing and healing properties. The juice is extracted from the fleshy leaves of the plant and is rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants.
2. Use:
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice is used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and skin-soothing properties. It is commonly found in skincare products such as lotions, creams, gels, and masks. Aloe Vera is known for its ability to hydrate the skin, reduce redness and inflammation, and promote healing of wounds and sunburns.
3. Usage Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice:
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice can be applied topically to the skin as needed. It is generally safe for all skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Aloe Vera to ensure there is no allergic reaction. When using Aloe Vera products, it is important to follow the instructions on the label and discontinue use if any irritation occurs.
4. References:
- Surjushe, A., Vasani, R., & Saple, D. G. (2008). Aloe Vera: A short review. Indian Journal of Dermatology, 53(4), 163–166.
- Radha, M. H., Laxmipriya, N. P., & Amin, M. (2015). Aloe Vera: A short review. Indian Journal of Dermatology, 60(3), 260–268.
- Reynolds, T., & Dweck, A. C. (1999). Aloe Vera leaf gel: a review update. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 68(1-3), 3–37.
Other Names: melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil; melaleuca alternifolia oil; tea tree leaf oil; tea tree essential oil
Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Antioxidant
1. Definition Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil:
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil is a natural essential oil derived from the leaves of the Tea Tree plant. It is known for its antibacterial, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory properties.
2. Use:
Tea Tree Leaf Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to treat various skin conditions such as acne, eczema, and psoriasis. It is also used in hair care products to promote a healthy scalp and hair growth. Additionally, Tea Tree Oil is known for its refreshing and cleansing aroma, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.
3. Usage Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil:
When using Tea Tree Leaf Oil in cosmetics, it is important to dilute it properly as it can be irritating to the skin when used in high concentrations. It is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to the skin to check for any allergic reactions. Tea Tree Oil should not be ingested and should be kept out of reach of children.
4. References:
- Carson, C. F., Hammer, K. A., & Riley, T. V. (2006). Melaleuca alternifolia (Tea Tree) oil: a review of antimicrobial and other medicinal properties. Clinical Microbiology Reviews, 19(1), 50-62.
- Hammer, K. A., Carson, C. F., & Riley, T. V. (2012). Antifungal activity of the components of Melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree) oil. Journal of Applied Microbiology, 95(4), 853-860.
- Pazyar, N., Yaghoobi, R., Bagherani, N., & Kazerouni, A. (2013). A review of applications of tea tree oil in dermatology. International Journal of Dermatology, 52(7), 784-790.
Other Names: Carboxypolymethylene; Carbopol; Cabomer
Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming
1. Definition Carbomer:
Carbomer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and stabilizer. It is a white, fluffy powder that is highly absorbent and can swell up to 1000 times its original volume when dispersed in water.
2. Use:
Carbomer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, gels, and serums. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the stability of emulsions, and enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Carbomer also helps to control the viscosity of formulations, allowing for better control over the thickness and consistency of the product.
3. Usage Carbomer:
When using products containing Carbomer, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. Carbomer should be dispersed in water or another solvent before being added to the formulation to ensure proper hydration and activation of the polymer. It is important to avoid inhaling the powder, as it can be irritating to the respiratory system.
4. References:
- Sharma, A., & Jain, A. (2012). Carbomers: A review. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 3(3), 805-814.
- Liao, Y., & Wang, J. (2017). Carbomer: A versatile polymer in pharmaceutical applications. Polymer Chemistry, 8(3), 355-366.
- Patel, D. (2015). Carbomer in pharmaceuticals: A review. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, 4(2), 121-133.
Function: Fragrance, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil:
Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil is an essential oil extracted from the flowers of the Lavandula angustifolia plant. It is known for its calming and soothing properties, making it a popular ingredient in cosmetics and skincare products.
2. Use:
Lavender oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its aromatic and therapeutic benefits. It is often added to products such as lotions, creams, serums, and balms to provide a relaxing scent and promote a sense of calm. Lavender oil is also known for its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, making it a valuable ingredient for treating skin conditions such as acne, eczema, and dryness.
3. Usage Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil:
When using lavender oil in cosmetics, it is important to dilute it properly to avoid skin irritation or sensitization. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using any product containing lavender oil to ensure that you do not have an allergic reaction. Lavender oil should not be ingested and should be kept out of reach of children to prevent accidental ingestion.
4. References:
- Ali, B., Al-Wabel, N. A., Shams, S., Ahamad, A., Khan, S. A., & Anwar, F. (2015). Essential oils used in aromatherapy: A systemic review. Asian Pacific Journal of Tropical Biomedicine, 5(8), 601-611.
- Cavanagh, H. M., & Wilkinson, J. M. (2002). Biological activities of lavender essential oil. Phytotherapy Research, 16(4), 301-308.
- Koulivand, P. H., Khaleghi Ghadiri, M., & Gorji, A. (2013). Lavender and the nervous system. Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine, 2013, 681304.
Function: Emollient
1. Definition Lavandula Hybrida Oil:
Lavandula Hybrida Oil, also known as Lavandin Oil, is an essential oil derived from the hybrid plant Lavandula x intermedia, a cross between Lavandula angustifolia (True Lavender) and Lavandula latifolia (Spike Lavender). It is known for its sweet, floral aroma and is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing and calming properties.
2. Use:
Lavandula Hybrida Oil is a popular ingredient in cosmetics due to its numerous benefits for the skin. It has anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antifungal properties, making it effective in treating acne, eczema, and other skin conditions. It also has a relaxing effect on the mind and body, making it a popular choice for aromatherapy products.
3. Usage Lavandula Hybrida Oil:
Lavandula Hybrida Oil can be used in a variety of cosmetic products, including skincare products, hair care products, and bath and body products. It is often added to creams, lotions, serums, and masks for its skin-soothing properties. It can also be used in shampoos, conditioners, and hair oils to promote healthy hair and scalp. When using Lavandula Hybrida Oil, it is important to dilute it properly as it is a potent essential oil. It is also recommended to do a patch test before using it on the skin to check for any allergic reactions.
4. References:
- Buchbauer, G., Jirovetz, L., Jager, W., & Plank, C. (1991). Aromatherapy: evidence for sedative effects of the essential oil of lavender after inhalation. Zeitschrift fur Naturforschung C, 46(11-12), 1067-1072.
- Cavanagh, H. M., & Wilkinson, J. M. (2002). Biological activities of lavender essential oil. Phytotherapy Research, 16(4), 301-308.
- Koulivand, P. H., Khaleghi Ghadiri, M., & Gorji, A. (2013). Lavender and the nervous system. Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine, 2013.
Other Names: NaOH
Function: Denaturant , pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent
1. Definition Sodium Hydroxide:
Sodium Hydroxide, also known as lye or caustic soda, is a highly alkaline compound that is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, emulsifier, and cleansing agent.
2. Use:
Sodium Hydroxide is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, ensuring that the product is within the desired range for optimal skin compatibility. It is also used as an emulsifier to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together, creating stable and uniform products. Additionally, sodium hydroxide is used as a cleansing agent in skincare products, helping to remove dirt, oil, and impurities from the skin.
3. Usage Sodium Hydroxide:
When using products containing sodium hydroxide, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. Avoid direct contact with the eyes, as it can cause irritation or burns. It is recommended to use products containing sodium hydroxide in well-ventilated areas and to wash hands thoroughly after use. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and seek medical advice.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2013). Final report on the safety assessment of sodium hydroxide. International Journal of Toxicology, 32(1), 59S-80S.
- Personal Care Products Council. (2020). Sodium Hydroxide. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/sodium-hydroxide/
- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). Sodium Hydroxide. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Sodium-hydroxide
Other Names: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE
Function: Fragrance, Preservative
1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:
Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.
2. Use:
Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.
3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:
When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.
Other Names: Capryl Glycol; 1,2-Octanediol; 1,2-Dihydroxyoctane; 1,2-Octylene glycol
Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient
1. Definition Caprylyl Glycol:
Caprylyl Glycol is a skin conditioning agent and emollient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from caprylic acid, which is found in coconut and palm oils.
2. Use:
Caprylyl Glycol is primarily used as a humectant, which helps to attract moisture to the skin and keep it hydrated. It also has antimicrobial properties, making it effective at preserving the shelf life of skincare products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, Caprylyl Glycol can enhance the texture of products, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft.
3. Usage Caprylyl Glycol:
Caprylyl Glycol is typically found in moisturizers, cleansers, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Caprylyl Glycol to their entire face. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the effectiveness and safety of the product.
4. References:
- Monkare J, Maczka W, Matuszak Ż, et al. Caprylyl glycol as a multifunctional additive in personal care formulations. Cosmetics. 2020;7(1):17. doi:10.3390/cosmetics7010017
- Lodeiro C, Margus T, Pinto S, et al. Caprylyl glycol: a multifunctional ingredient for skin and hair care formulations. SOFW J. 2017;143(11):42-48.
- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: moisturizers. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(9):s27-s30.