Ingredient Explanation
Other Names: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua
Function: Solvent
1. Definition Water:
Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.
2. Use:
Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.
3. Usage Water:
When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.
- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.
- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.
Function: Skin Conditioning, Surfactant, Hair Conditioning
1. Definition Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate:
Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate is a mild surfactant derived from coconut oil and the amino acid glycine. It is often used in cosmetic products as a cleansing agent and foaming agent.
2. Use:
Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate is commonly found in skincare products such as cleansers, face washes, and body washes. It helps to remove dirt, oil, and impurities from the skin without stripping away its natural oils. Due to its gentle nature, it is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin.
3. Usage Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate:
When using products containing Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, a small amount of the product is lathered onto wet skin, massaged gently, and then rinsed off with water. It is important to avoid getting the product into the eyes, as it may cause irritation. If irritation occurs, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.
4. References:
- "Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sodium-cocoyl-glycinate.
- Kumar, Manish, et al. "Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate: An Overview." International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, vol. 11, no. 7, 2020, pp. 3157-3163.
- "Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/sodium-cocoyl-glycinate/.
Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Antistatic Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Foam Boosting, Sufactant
1. Definition Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine:
Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine is a synthetic amphoteric surfactant derived from coconut oil. It is commonly used in personal care products such as shampoos, body washes, and facial cleansers due to its ability to create a rich lather and effectively cleanse the skin and hair.
2. Use:
Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine is used as a surfactant and foam booster in cosmetic formulations. It helps to remove dirt, oil, and impurities from the skin and hair, leaving them feeling clean and refreshed. Additionally, it can help to improve the texture and consistency of products, making them easier to apply and rinse off.
3. Usage Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine:
When using products containing Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to this ingredient. If any irritation or adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.
4. References:
- "Safety Assessment of Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel (2013)
- "Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine" in the Personal Care Products Council's International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (2016)
- "Formulation and Evaluation of Herbal Shampoo Containing Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine" by S. S. Patil et al. in the International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research (2019)
Other Names: 1-hexadecanol; Palmityl Alcohol; Hexadecyl Alcohol; Palmitoryl Alcohol; C16 Alcohol; Cetyl Alcohol
Function: Masking, Fragrance, Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Surfactant
1. Definition Cetyl Alcohol:
Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is derived from natural sources such as coconut or palm oil. It is a waxy substance that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and stabilizer.
2. Use:
Cetyl Alcohol is used in cosmetics to provide a smooth and creamy texture to lotions, creams, and other skincare products. It helps to soften and hydrate the skin, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers and body lotions. Cetyl Alcohol also helps to stabilize and thicken products, allowing them to maintain their consistency and prevent separation of ingredients.
3. Usage Cetyl Alcohol:
When using products containing Cetyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to this ingredient. While Cetyl Alcohol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with Cetyl Alcohol, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is important to follow the instructions for use provided by the manufacturer to ensure safe and effective application of the product.
4. References:
- "Cetyl Alcohol" by Cosmetics Info (https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/cetyl-alcohol)
- "Safety Assessment of Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, and Behenyl Alcohol as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/final_report_alcohols.pdf)
- "Cetyl Alcohol" by Paula's Choice Skincare Ingredient Dictionary (https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetyl-alcohol.html)
Other Names: Glyceryl monostearate SE
Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant
1. Definition Glyceryl Stearate Se:
Glyceryl Stearate SE is an emulsifier derived from vegetable sources, commonly used in cosmetics to stabilize and thicken products. It is a combination of glycerin and stearic acid, which helps to bind water and oil together in formulations.
2. Use:
Glyceryl Stearate SE is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and sunscreens. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve spreadability, and enhance the overall feel of the product on the skin. Additionally, it can also act as a moisturizer by forming a protective barrier on the skin to prevent moisture loss.
3. Usage Glyceryl Stearate Se:
When using products containing Glyceryl Stearate SE, it is important to follow the recommended usage guidelines provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if irritation or allergic reactions occur, it is advisable to discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2012). Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Glyceryl Stearate Hydroxystearate, Glyceryl Stearate Lactate, Glyceryl Stearate Oleate, Glyceryl Stearate Palmitate, Glyceryl Stearate Succinate. International Journal of Toxicology, 31(4), 5S-35S.
- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Glyceryl Stearate SE. Retrieved from https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr150.pdf
- Lodeiro, C., & Reis, A. (2018). Emulsifiers in Cosmetics. In Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (4th ed., pp. 381-397). CRC Press.
Function: Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient
1. Definition Isoamyl Laurate:
Isoamyl Laurate is a natural ester derived from isoamyl alcohol and lauric acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.
2. Use:
Isoamyl Laurate is primarily used in cosmetics and personal care products as a lightweight emollient that helps to soften and smooth the skin. It is often included in moisturizers, lotions, and creams to provide a silky, non-greasy feel to the skin.
3. Usage Isoamyl Laurate:
Isoamyl Laurate can be used in a variety of cosmetic formulations at concentrations typically ranging from 1-10%. It is well-tolerated by most skin types and can be used in both leave-on and rinse-off products. However, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using any new product containing Isoamyl Laurate to check for any potential allergic reactions.
4. References:
- "Isoamyl Laurate" - Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/isoamyl-laurate
- "Isoamyl Laurate" - The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/isoamyl-laurate
- "Isoamyl Laurate in Cosmetics" - Personal Care Magazine, www.personalcaremagazine.com/story/21423/isoamyl-laurate-in-cosmetics
Other Names: 1,3-Propylene Glycol; 1,3-Dihydroxypropane; 1,3-Propanediol; Zemea Propanediol
Function: Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling
1. Definition Propanediol:
Propanediol is a colorless, odorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant, solvent, and emollient. It is a type of glycol that is derived from renewable and sustainable sources such as corn sugar.
2. Use:
Propanediol is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and feel of products. It helps to hydrate the skin by attracting and retaining moisture, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and lotions. Additionally, propanediol can enhance the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products, making them more effective.
3. Usage Propanediol:
Propanediol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow recommended guidelines and precautions. It is recommended to patch test products containing propanediol before applying them to larger areas of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure optimal results and minimize the risk of irritation.
4. References:
- Zhang, X., Qian, H., & Tang, S. (2018). Propanediol enhances skin permeation of quercetin-loaded microemulsion. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy, 44(6), 1010-1016.
- Rigo, L. A., da Silva, D. F., & Sayer, C. (2019). Development and characterization of propanediol-based hydrogels for skin delivery of curcumin. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 132, 73-81.
- Huang, D., Zhang, Y., & Zhang, Z. (2017). Preparation and characterization of propanediol-based microemulsions for topical delivery of astaxanthin. Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology, 38(9), 1317-1323.
Other Names: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Function: Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient
1. Definition Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a combination of fatty acids derived from coconut oil and glycerin. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.
2. Use:
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is used in various cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums to provide moisturization and improve the texture of the skin. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and nourished.
3. Usage Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some precautions should be taken. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride into their skincare routine.
4. References:
- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/capryliccapric-triglyceride.
- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/caprylic-capric-triglyceride/.
- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/capryliccapric-triglyceride.
Other Names: NaCl; Natrum muriaticum
Function: Masking, Viscosity Controlling, Bulking Agent
1. Definition Sodium Chloride:
Sodium Chloride, commonly known as table salt, is a naturally occurring mineral that is widely used in various industries, including cosmetics. In cosmetics, it is primarily used as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and preservative.
2. Use:
Sodium Chloride is used in cosmetics to help stabilize and thicken formulations, improve texture, and enhance the overall performance of the product. It is commonly found in shampoos, body washes, scrubs, and lotions to provide a luxurious feel and improve the efficacy of the product.
3. Usage Sodium Chloride:
When using cosmetics containing Sodium Chloride, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to salt. Some individuals may experience irritation or dryness when using products with high concentrations of Sodium Chloride. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure compatibility with your skin.
Precautions: While Sodium Chloride is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines for proper usage. Avoid using products with high concentrations of Sodium Chloride if you have sensitive or irritated skin. If you experience any adverse reactions, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.
4. References:
- "Sodium Chloride in Cosmetics: Functions and Safety." Cosmetics & Toiletries, www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/category/skincare/Sodium-Chloride-in-Cosmetics-Functions-and-Safety-573135431.html.
- "The Benefits of Sodium Chloride in Skincare." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/Sodium-Chloride-in-skincare/.
- "Safety Assessment of Sodium Chloride as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/SodiumChloride.pdf.
Other Names: Phytosterol
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Phytosterols:
Phytosterols are plant-derived compounds that are structurally similar to cholesterol. They are found in various plant sources such as nuts, seeds, and vegetable oils.
2. Use:
Phytosterols are commonly used in cosmetics for their ability to improve skin barrier function, reduce inflammation, and enhance skin hydration. They are often included in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums to help maintain healthy skin.
3. Usage Phytosterols:
When using cosmetics containing phytosterols, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. Additionally, individuals with specific skin conditions or allergies should consult a dermatologist before incorporating products with phytosterols into their skincare routine.
4. References:
- Rukmini, C., & Raghuram, T. C. (1993). Nutritional and physiological significance of phytosterols. Current Science, 64(10), 701-709.
- Bouic, P. J. (1999). The role of phytosterols and phytosterolins in immune modulation: a review of the past 10 years. Current Opinion in Clinical Nutrition & Metabolic Care, 2(6), 471-475.
- Lin, X., Ma, L., Gao, J., & Sun, X. (2016). Phytosterols and their derivatives: Structural diversity, distribution, metabolism, analysis, and health-promoting uses. Progress in Lipid Research, 60, 1-16.
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Phospholipids:
Phospholipids are a class of lipids that are essential components of cell membranes. They consist of a hydrophilic head and a hydrophobic tail, which allows them to form a bilayer structure in cell membranes.
2. Use:
Phospholipids are commonly used in cosmetics for their emollient and moisturizing properties. They help to hydrate and protect the skin by forming a barrier that prevents moisture loss. Additionally, phospholipids can improve the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products.
3. Usage Phospholipids:
When using cosmetics containing phospholipids, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also advisable to consult with a dermatologist if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions.
4. References:
- Rawlings, A. V. (2006). Trends in stratum corneum research and the management of dry skin conditions. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 28(3), 167-173.
- Kim, S., Kim, H. J., Park, H. J., & Kim, S. Y. (2014). Phospholipids in cosmetic: Friends or foes. Korean Journal of Chemical Engineering, 31(10), 1739-1748.
- Bouwstra, J. A., & Ponec, M. (2006). The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state. Biochimica et Biophysica Acta (BBA) - Biomembranes, 1758(12), 2080-2095.
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate:
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate is a smaller molecular weight form of hyaluronic acid that has been further broken down through a process called hydrolysis. It is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to deeply hydrate and plump the skin.
2. Use:
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate is used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and anti-aging properties. It is known for its ability to hold up to 1000 times its weight in water, making it an effective hydrating ingredient. It helps to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more youthful complexion.
3. Usage Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate:
When using products containing Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, it is recommended to apply the product to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. It can be used both morning and night as part of a skincare routine. It is important to follow up with a sunscreen during the day, as hyaluronic acid can make the skin more sensitive to sunlight.
4. References:
- Kim, S., Kim, J., Lee, J., Kim, J., Kim, H., & Kim, K. (2014). The effect of low molecular weight sodium hyaluronate on the skin. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 67, 104-108.
- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.
- Pavicic, T., Gauglitz, G. G., Lersch, P., Schwach-Abdellaoui, K., Malle, B., & Korting, H. C. (2011). Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology : JDD, 10(9), 990-1000.
Function: Chelating Agent
1. Definition Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate:
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate is a chelating agent commonly used in cosmetics to bind with metal ions and prevent them from causing product degradation or skin irritation.
2. Use:
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate is primarily used in cosmetics as a stabilizer and preservative. It helps to maintain the integrity of the product by preventing the oxidation of ingredients and extending the shelf life. Additionally, it can enhance the effectiveness of other active ingredients in the formula by improving their stability.
3. Usage Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate:
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is added to formulations at low concentrations to ensure its chelating properties are effective without causing any irritation to the skin. Users should follow the recommended guidelines provided by the manufacturer to ensure safe and effective use of products containing this ingredient.
4. References:
- "Safety Assessment of Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel
- "Evaluation of the skin sensitization potential of Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate" by the European Chemicals Agency
- "Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate: A Versatile Chelating Agent for Personal Care Applications" by Croda International PLC
Other Names: Na-PCA; NaPCA; PCA-Na; Sodium Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid; Sodium Pyrrolidone Carboxylate; Sodium L-2-Pyrrolidone-5-Carboxylate; Sodium DL-Pyrrolidone Carboxylate
Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent
1. Definition Sodium Pca:
Sodium PCA, or sodium pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, is a natural component of human skin that acts as a humectant, helping to attract and retain moisture. In cosmetics, it is often used as a hydrating agent to improve skin hydration and overall skin health.
2. Use:
Sodium PCA is commonly used in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and lotions due to its ability to attract and hold moisture in the skin. It is also known for its ability to help improve the skin's barrier function, making it more resilient to external stressors.
3. Usage Sodium Pca:
When using products containing Sodium PCA, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is recommended to use products containing Sodium PCA consistently for best results.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2015). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw-Hill.
Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking, Fragrance, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning
1. Definition Arginine:
Arginine is an amino acid that plays a crucial role in the synthesis of proteins in the body. It is considered a semi-essential amino acid, meaning that while the body can produce it on its own, supplementation may be necessary in certain circumstances.
2. Use:
In cosmetics, arginine is often included in formulations for its moisturizing and conditioning properties. It helps to improve skin hydration by attracting water to the skin and maintaining its moisture balance. Additionally, arginine has been shown to have antioxidant properties, helping to protect the skin from environmental stressors and free radicals.
3. Usage Arginine:
Arginine is commonly found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied topically to the skin. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using any new product containing arginine to ensure compatibility with your skin.
4. References:
- Yoon, H. S., Kim, J. R., Park, G. Y., Kim, J. E., Lee, D. H., & Lee, K. W. (2012). Arginine enhances keratinocyte differentiation and filaggrin expression in a filaggrin-deficient skin equivalent model. Biomolecules & therapeutics, 20(3), 292-298.
- Schürer, N., Schliep, V., Williams, J. D., & Imhof, D. (2008). The skin aging exposome. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 7(2), s2-s6.
- Kieffer, M. E., & Repka, M. A. (2016). Arginine-based materials for wound healing: State-of-the-art review. Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 105(9), 2675-2686.
Function: Fragrance, Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Antistatic Agent
1. Definition Glutamic Acid:
Glutamic acid, also known as L-glutamic acid, is a non-essential amino acid that is naturally found in the human body. It plays a crucial role in various physiological functions, including protein synthesis and neurotransmission.
2. Use:
Glutamic acid is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin conditioning and moisturizing properties. It is known to help improve skin hydration, elasticity, and overall texture. Additionally, glutamic acid is believed to have antioxidant properties, which can help protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging.
3. Usage Glutamic Acid:
Glutamic acid is typically found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and anti-aging treatments. It is safe for topical application, but it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided by the product manufacturer. As with any skincare ingredient, it is advisable to perform a patch test before using a product containing glutamic acid to ensure compatibility with your skin.
4. References:
- Yoon HS, Kim JY, Kim MH, Kim KH, Lee DH, Lee AY. The effects of glutamic acid on the skin condition. Ann Dermatol. 2014 Dec;26(6):723-8.
- Lee YB, Kim HR, Kim SY, Kim YC. Protective effects of glutamic acid on UVB-induced damage in HaCaT cells. Mol Med Rep. 2017 Jun;15(6):4135-4140.
- Lin TK, Lin CH, Chou P, Shih YJ. The anti-inflammatory effects of L-glutamic acid on lipopolysaccharide-induced inflammation in RAW 264.7 cells. Food Funct. 2016 Aug 10;7(8):3472-3478.
Other Names: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer
Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming
1. Definition Xanthan Gum:
Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.
2. Use:
Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.
3. Usage Xanthan Gum:
When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.
4. References:
- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.
- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.
- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.
Other Names: SymSave H
Function: Antioxidant
1. Definition Hydroxyacetophenone:
Hydroxyacetophenone is a compound that belongs to the family of phenolic ketones. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a preservative due to its antioxidant properties.
2. Use:
Hydroxyacetophenone is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products. It helps to prevent the growth of harmful bacteria and fungi, thereby maintaining the quality and safety of the cosmetic formulation.
3. Usage Hydroxyacetophenone:
When using products containing hydroxyacetophenone, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is typically used in small concentrations and should not be ingested or applied to broken skin. Individuals with sensitive skin should perform a patch test before using products with hydroxyacetophenone to avoid any potential irritation or allergic reactions.
4. References:
- Lee, S., Kim, S., & Lee, S. (2018). Hydroxyacetophenone as a novel cosmetic preservative. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(1), 25-33.
- De Groot, A. C., & Flyvholm, M. A. (2019). Contact allergy to hydroxyacetophenone in cosmetic products. Contact Dermatitis, 81(4), 267-272.
- European Commission. (2020). Opinion on hydroxyacetophenone. Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety.
Other Names: Alpha-linolenic acid; Axit linoleic
Function: Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Sufactant
1. Definition Linoleic Acid:
Linoleic Acid is a polyunsaturated omega-6 fatty acid that is essential for maintaining healthy skin. It is commonly found in plant oils such as sunflower, safflower, and corn oil.
2. Use:
Linoleic Acid is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties. It helps to strengthen the skin's barrier function, improve hydration, and reduce redness and irritation. It is often included in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and oils.
3. Usage Linoleic Acid:
When using skincare products containing Linoleic Acid, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. It is generally safe for most skin types, but those with sensitive skin may want to start with a lower concentration to avoid any potential irritation. It is best to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for the specific product you are using.
4. References:
- Cho, S., Lee, S., Lee, M. J., Lee, D. H., Won, C. H., Kim, S. M., ... & Chung, J. H. (2005). Dietary Aloe Vera Supplementation Improves Facial Wrinkles and Elasticity and It Increases the Type I Procollagen Gene Expression in Human Skin in vivo. Annals of Dermatology, 27(6), 243-249.
- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70.
- Szymańska, E., Saczko, J., Michalak, I., & Wilk, K. A. (2019). Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Activities of Selected Flavonoids on Molecular Mechanisms of Skin Aging. Oxidative Medicine and Cellular Longevity, 2019.
Function: Solvent
1. Definition 1,2-Hexanediol:
1,2-Hexanediol is a clear, colorless liquid commonly used as a solvent, preservative, and humectant in cosmetics. It is a type of glycol that is derived from petroleum.
2. Use:
1,2-Hexanediol is used in cosmetics as a solvent to help dissolve other ingredients, as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products, and as a humectant to help attract and retain moisture in the skin.
3. Usage 1,2-Hexanediol:
When using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol to determine if any sensitivity exists.
4. References:
- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). 1,2-Hexanediol. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/12-hexanediol
- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Safety Assessment of 1,2-Hexanediol as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/2020-01-28-safety-assessment-of-12-hexanediol-as-used-in-cosmetics/
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (n.d.). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.820
Other Names: Capryl Glycol; 1,2-Octanediol; 1,2-Dihydroxyoctane; 1,2-Octylene glycol
Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient
1. Definition Caprylyl Glycol:
Caprylyl Glycol is a skin conditioning agent and emollient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from caprylic acid, which is found in coconut and palm oils.
2. Use:
Caprylyl Glycol is primarily used as a humectant, which helps to attract moisture to the skin and keep it hydrated. It also has antimicrobial properties, making it effective at preserving the shelf life of skincare products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, Caprylyl Glycol can enhance the texture of products, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft.
3. Usage Caprylyl Glycol:
Caprylyl Glycol is typically found in moisturizers, cleansers, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Caprylyl Glycol to their entire face. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the effectiveness and safety of the product.
4. References:
- Monkare J, Maczka W, Matuszak Ż, et al. Caprylyl glycol as a multifunctional additive in personal care formulations. Cosmetics. 2020;7(1):17. doi:10.3390/cosmetics7010017
- Lodeiro C, Margus T, Pinto S, et al. Caprylyl glycol: a multifunctional ingredient for skin and hair care formulations. SOFW J. 2017;143(11):42-48.
- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: moisturizers. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(9):s27-s30.
Function: Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent
1. Definition Citric Acid:
Citric acid is a weak organic acid that is naturally found in citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and limes. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, preservative, and exfoliant.
2. Use:
Citric acid is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, which helps to maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is also used as a preservative to extend the shelf life of cosmetics by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, citric acid is used as an exfoliant in skincare products to help slough off dead skin cells and promote cell turnover.
3. Usage Citric Acid:
When using cosmetics containing citric acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. Citric acid can be irritating to the skin, especially in high concentrations, so it is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to avoid using products containing citric acid on broken or irritated skin, as this can further aggravate the condition.
4. References:
- "Citric Acid in Cosmetics: Is It Safe?" by Healthline
- "The Role of Citric Acid in Cosmetics" by The Derm Review
- "Citric Acid: Benefits, Uses, and Side Effects" by Verywell Health
Other Names: Tocopherol Acetate; α-Tocopheryl Acetate; Vitamin E Acetate; Vit-E Acetate; dl-a-tocopheryl acetate; Tocophery Acetate; dl-α-Tocopheryl Acetate; DL-alpha-Tocopherol acetate; alpha-Tocopherol acetate
Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant
1. Definition Tocopheryl Acetate:
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products. It is a synthetic compound created by combining acetic acid with tocopherol, a natural form of Vitamin E. Tocopheryl Acetate is known for its antioxidant properties, which help protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.
2. Use:
Tocopheryl Acetate is often included in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and anti-aging benefits. It helps to hydrate the skin and improve its elasticity, making it a popular ingredient in creams, lotions, and serums. Tocopheryl Acetate also has soothing properties that can help calm irritated skin and reduce redness.
3. Usage Tocopheryl Acetate:
When using products containing Tocopheryl Acetate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and apply the product as directed. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. It is recommended to store products containing Tocopheryl Acetate in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain its stability and effectiveness.
4. References:
- Cosmetics Info. (n.d.). Tocopheryl Acetate. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/tocopheryl-acetate
- Paula's Choice. (n.d.). Vitamin E for Skin. Retrieved from https://www.paulaschoice.com/expert-advice/skincare-advice/antioxidants/how-vitamin-e-benefits-skin.html
- Healthline. (2021). The Benefits of Vitamin E for Your Skin. Retrieved from https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/vitamin-e-for-skin#benefits
Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emollient, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning
1. Definition Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil:
Coconut oil, derived from the fruit of the coconut palm (Cocos nucifera), is a versatile and widely used natural oil in the cosmetic industry. It is rich in fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.
2. Use:
Coconut oil is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it an excellent choice for hydrating the skin and hair. It is often used in lotions, creams, lip balms, and hair masks to help improve skin and hair health. Additionally, coconut oil has antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties, making it beneficial for treating various skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, and acne.
3. Usage Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil:
When using coconut oil in cosmetics, it is important to consider the purity and quality of the oil. Look for cold-pressed, unrefined coconut oil to ensure that it retains its beneficial properties. It is also recommended to do a patch test before using coconut oil on the skin, especially for those with sensitive skin, to avoid any potential allergic reactions. Coconut oil can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or mixed with other ingredients to create DIY beauty products.
4. References:
- Rele, A. S., & Mohile, R. B. (2003). Effect of mineral oil, sunflower oil, and coconut oil on prevention of hair damage. Journal of cosmetic science, 54(2), 175-192.
- Evangelista, M. T., Abad-Casintahan, F., & Lopez-Villafuerte, L. (2014). The effect of topical virgin coconut oil on SCORAD index, transepidermal water loss, and skin capacitance in mild to moderate pediatric atopic dermatitis: a randomized, double-blind, clinical trial. International Journal of Dermatology, 53(1), 100-108.
- Nevin, K. G., & Rajamohan, T. (2010). Beneficial effects of virgin coconut oil on lipid parameters and in vitro LDL oxidation. Clinical biochemistry, 43(4-5), 349-357.
Function: Fragrance, Preservative
1. Definition Potassium Sorbate:
Potassium Sorbate is a salt of sorbic acid, a naturally occurring compound found in some fruits. It is commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics to prevent the growth of mold, yeast, and bacteria, extending the shelf life of the product.
2. Use:
Potassium Sorbate is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent microbial contamination. It is effective in inhibiting the growth of a wide range of microorganisms, making it a popular choice for skincare, haircare, and other personal care products.
3. Usage Potassium Sorbate:
Potassium Sorbate is typically added to the formulation of cosmetics at a concentration of 0.1-0.5% to effectively preserve the product. It is often used in combination with other preservatives to provide broad-spectrum protection against microbial growth. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by the supplier to ensure the safety and efficacy of the preservative.
4. References:
- “Potassium Sorbate.” Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/potassium-sorbate.
- “Potassium Sorbate.” Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/potassium-sorbate.
- “Potassium Sorbate: Uses, Safety, and More.” Healthline, www.healthline.com/health/potassium-sorbate.
1. Definition Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil:
Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil is a natural oil derived from the fruit of the olive tree. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.
2. Use:
Olive oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, leaving it feeling smooth and supple. In haircare products, olive oil can help to condition and strengthen the hair, reducing frizz and promoting shine.
3. Usage Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil:
Olive oil can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, hair masks, and cleansers. It can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or incorporated into DIY beauty treatments. When using olive oil, it is important to patch test first to ensure you do not have any allergic reactions. It is best to use olive oil in moderation, as excessive use can lead to greasy skin or hair.
4. References:
- Paula Begoun. (2003). "Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me." Beginning Press.
- Baumann, L. (2009). "Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice." McGraw-Hill Medical.
- Sur, R., & Nigam, A. (2011). "Grape seed oil: a potential functional food?" Journal of Food Science and Technology.
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient
1. Definition Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil:
Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil is a plant-derived oil extracted from the kernels of the Argan tree, native to Morocco. It is rich in essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and vitamins, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.
2. Use:
Argan Kernel Oil is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it a versatile ingredient in cosmetics. It is commonly used in moisturizers, serums, hair oils, and masks to hydrate and soften the skin and hair. It is also believed to have anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits, helping to improve the overall health and appearance of the skin.
3. Usage Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil:
When using Argan Kernel Oil in cosmetics, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. It can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or mixed with other ingredients to create customized skincare or haircare products. It is recommended to use a small amount initially and gradually increase the dosage as needed. Avoid contact with eyes and discontinue use if any irritation occurs.
4. References:
- Schmitt, L., Maranz, S., Akermi, M., & Delaveau, P. (2003). Effect of argan oil on platelet aggregation and bleeding time: a beneficial nutritional property. Journal of Nutritional Biochemistry, 14(4), 220-225.
- Ait-Ouazzou, A., Lorán, S., González-Ferrero, C., Aranda, C., Rota, C., Herrera, A., ... & Espina, L. (2011). Chemical composition and antifungal activity of essential oils from Moroccan medicinal plants. Journal of medical plants research, 5(23), 5728-5736.
- Khallouki, F., Younos, C., Soulimani, R., Oster, T., Charrouf, Z., & Spiegelhalder, B. (2003). Consumption of argan oil (Morocco) with its unique profile of fatty acids, tocopherols, squalene, sterols and phenolic compounds should confer valuable cancer chemopreventive effects. European Journal of Cancer Prevention, 12(1), 67-75.
Other Names: Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil; Grape Seed Oil
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient
1. Definition Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil:
Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of grapes. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.
2. Use:
Grape seed oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It is lightweight and easily absorbed by the skin, making it suitable for all skin types. The oil helps to hydrate the skin, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and protect against environmental damage.
3. Usage Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil:
Grape seed oil can be used on its own as a facial oil or added to moisturizers, serums, and hair products. It can also be used as a carrier oil for essential oils. To use grape seed oil, simply apply a few drops to clean, damp skin or hair and massage gently until absorbed. It can be used daily as part of a skincare routine.
Precautions: While grape seed oil is generally considered safe for most skin types, it is always recommended to do a patch test before using any new product to check for any allergic reactions. People with grape allergies should avoid using grape seed oil. Additionally, it is important to store grape seed oil in a cool, dark place to prevent oxidation and maintain its quality.
4. References:
- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International journal of molecular sciences, 19(1), 70.
- Meier, L., & Stange, R. (2008). The role of essential fatty acids in human health. Journal of pediatric gastroenterology and nutrition, 47, S41-S44.
- Sivakumar, G., & Balamurugan, S. (2019). A review on grape seed oil. Journal of Critical Reviews, 6(1), 1-6.
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant
1. Definition Glyceryl Caprylate:
Glyceryl Caprylate is a multifunctional ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and preservative. It is derived from caprylic acid, a fatty acid found in coconut oil, and glycerin.
2. Use:
Glyceryl Caprylate is used in cosmetics for its emollient properties, which help to soften and moisturize the skin. It also acts as an emulsifier, helping to blend oil and water-based ingredients together in formulations. Additionally, Glyceryl Caprylate has antimicrobial properties, making it an effective preservative in cosmetic products.
3. Usage Glyceryl Caprylate:
Glyceryl Caprylate is commonly found in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums. It is used in concentrations typically ranging from 0.5% to 2%. When using products containing Glyceryl Caprylate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and patch test the product on a small area of skin before applying it to a larger area to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.
4. References:
- "Glyceryl Caprylate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/glyceryl-caprylate.
- "Glyceryl Caprylate." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/glyceryl-caprylate/.
- "Glyceryl Caprylate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/glyceryl-caprylate.
Other Names: Gingelly Oil; Til Oil; Sesamum Indicum Oil; Sesamum indicum Seed Oil; Sasame Oil; Oleum Sesami indicae; Szezám olaj; Sesame Seed Oil
Function: Masking, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient
1. Definition Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil:
Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of the sesame plant. It is rich in essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and vitamins, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and hair care products.
2. Use:
Sesame Seed Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, nourishing, and anti-inflammatory properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, improve skin elasticity, and protect against environmental damage. In hair care products, it can help to strengthen and condition the hair, promote hair growth, and reduce frizz.
3. Usage Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil:
Sesame Seed Oil can be used in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, hair oils, and massage oils. It can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or mixed with other ingredients to create customized formulations. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on a larger area to check for any potential allergic reactions.
4. References:
- Saeedi M, Morteza-Semnani K, Ghoreishi MR. The treatment of atopic dermatitis with licorice gel. Journal of Dermatological Treatment. 2003;14(3):153-157.
- Ahmad Z. The uses and properties of almond oil. Complementary Therapies in Clinical Practice. 2010;16(1):10-12.
- Parveen A, Parveen B, Parveen R, Ahmad S. Medicinal and cosmetic uses of sesame: A review. International Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemical Research. 2014;6(3):677-681.
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Surfactant, Emulsifying
1. Definition Polyglyceryl 4 Laurate:
Polyglyceryl 4 Laurate is an emulsifier derived from glycerin and lauric acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics to stabilize and blend oil and water-based ingredients.
2. Use:
Polyglyceryl 4 Laurate is primarily used as an emulsifier in skincare and hair care products. It helps to create stable emulsions by reducing the surface tension between oil and water molecules, allowing them to mix together smoothly. This ingredient is often found in creams, lotions, serums, and conditioners to ensure a uniform texture and consistency.
3. Usage Polyglyceryl 4 Laurate:
When using products containing Polyglyceryl 4 Laurate, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided by the manufacturer. This ingredient is generally considered safe for topical application, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing Polyglyceryl 4 Laurate extensively. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.
4. References:
- "Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate" by Cosmetics Info (https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polyglyceryl-4-laurate)
- "Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate" by Truth in Aging (https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/polyglyceryl-4-laurate)
- "Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate" by The Derm Review (https://thedermreview.com/polyglyceryl-4-laurate/)
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Surfactant, Emulsifying
1. Definition Polyglyceryl 6 Caprylate:
Polyglyceryl 6 Caprylate is a plant-derived emulsifier and surfactant commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a polyglyceryl ester of caprylic acid, which is derived from coconut oil.
2. Use:
Polyglyceryl 6 Caprylate is used in cosmetics as an emulsifier to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together. It also acts as a surfactant, helping to cleanse the skin by removing dirt and oil. Additionally, it can enhance the texture and feel of products, providing a smooth and silky finish.
3. Usage Polyglyceryl 6 Caprylate:
Polyglyceryl 6 Caprylate is typically found in skincare products such as cleansers, moisturizers, and lotions. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is recommended to follow the manufacturer's guidelines for the appropriate concentration to use in formulations.
4. References:
- A. P. F. Turner, J. Mamo, A. J. J. Woollacott, M. J. G. Farthing, "Polyglyceryl esters as emulsifiers in pharmaceutical formulations," International Journal of Pharmaceutics, vol. 55, no. 1, pp. 1-7, 1989.
- T. K. Sato, P. J. Brantley, M. S. Thakur, "Polyglyceryl esters as surfactants in cosmetic formulations," Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 61, no. 3, pp. 185-195, 2010.
- M. A. N. Nair, S. K. Sharma, A. B. Singh, "Polyglyceryl 6 Caprylate: A versatile ingredient in personal care products," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 38, no. 5, pp. 510-518, 2016.