Ingredient Explanation
Other Names: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua
Function: Solvent
1. Definition Water:
Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.
2. Use:
Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.
3. Usage Water:
When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.
- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.
- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.
Function: Emollient, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive
1. Definition Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate:
Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate is a mixture of propylene glycol with caprylic and capric acids, which are fatty acids derived from coconut oil. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and skin conditioning agent.
2. Use:
Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, sunscreens, and makeup to provide a smooth and silky texture. It helps to moisturize and soften the skin, making it feel more hydrated and supple. Additionally, it helps to improve the spreadability of products and enhance the overall sensory experience for the consumer.
3. Usage Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate:
When using products containing Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient. It is also recommended to avoid applying products with this ingredient to broken or irritated skin.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2003). Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. International Journal of Toxicology, 22(Suppl 2), 1-21.
- Personal Care Products Council. (2018). Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/propylene-glycol-dicaprylatedicaprate
- Paula's Choice Skincare. (n.d.). Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. Retrieved from https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/skin-soothing/caprylic-capric-triglyceride.html
1. Definition Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil:
Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil is a natural oil derived from the fruit of the olive tree. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.
2. Use:
Olive oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, leaving it feeling smooth and supple. In haircare products, olive oil can help to condition and strengthen the hair, reducing frizz and promoting shine.
3. Usage Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil:
Olive oil can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, hair masks, and cleansers. It can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or incorporated into DIY beauty treatments. When using olive oil, it is important to patch test first to ensure you do not have any allergic reactions. It is best to use olive oil in moderation, as excessive use can lead to greasy skin or hair.
4. References:
- Paula Begoun. (2003). "Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me." Beginning Press.
- Baumann, L. (2009). "Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice." McGraw-Hill Medical.
- Sur, R., & Nigam, A. (2011). "Grape seed oil: a potential functional food?" Journal of Food Science and Technology.
Other Names: Monopropylene Glycol; Propyl Glycol; 1,2-Dihydroxypropane; 1,2-Propanediol; Propane-1,2-diol; 1,2-Propylene Glycol
Function: Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Skin-Conditioningagent - Miscellaneous
1. Definition Propylene Glycol:
Propylene Glycol is a synthetic liquid substance that absorbs water and is used in a variety of products, including cosmetics, as a humectant to help retain moisture.
2. Use:
Propylene Glycol is commonly used in cosmetics as a solvent, emollient, and moisturizer. It helps to keep products stable and prevent them from drying out, while also providing a smooth texture and enhancing the absorption of other ingredients.
3. Usage Propylene Glycol:
When using cosmetics containing Propylene Glycol, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to this ingredient, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Propylene Glycol for the first time. Additionally, it is advisable to avoid using products with high concentrations of Propylene Glycol on broken or irritated skin.
4. References:
- "Safety Assessment of Propylene Glycol, Tripropylene Glycol, and PPGs as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel
- "Propylene Glycol" by the Environmental Working Group
- "Propylene Glycol in Cosmetics" by the Personal Care Products Council
Other Names: Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol; Cetostearyl Alcohol; C16-18 Alcohols
Function: Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous
1. Definition Cetearyl Alcohol:
Cetearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients.
2. Use:
Cetearyl Alcohol is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and hair conditioners. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, as well as improve the texture and consistency of the product. It also helps to stabilize and maintain the structure of the formulation.
3. Usage Cetearyl Alcohol:
When using products containing Cetearyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when using products with Cetearyl Alcohol, so it is recommended to do a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions for use provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective application.
4. References:
- "Cetearyl Alcohol" by Paula Begoun, Cosmetics Cop, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetearyl-alcohol.html
- "Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics: Safe or Harmful?" by Dr. Anvita Arora, Dermatologist, https://www.dranvitaarora.com/cetearyl-alcohol-in-cosmetics-safe-or-harmful/
- "The Role of Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/cetearylcir.pdf
Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant, Cleansing
1. Definition Ceteareth 20:
Ceteareth 20 is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with approximately 20 moles of ethylene oxide. It is a white, waxy solid that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant.
2. Use:
Ceteareth 20 is primarily used in cosmetic formulations as an emulsifying agent to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together. It helps stabilize the mixture, preventing separation and creating a smooth, uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. Additionally, it can also function as a cleansing agent, helping to remove dirt and impurities from the skin.
3. Usage Ceteareth 20:
When using products containing Ceteareth 20, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines for application. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing this ingredient to a larger area of skin. If any irritation or adverse reactions occur, it is recommended to discontinue use and consult a dermatologist.
4. References:
- "Ceteareth-20." Cosmeticsinfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ceteareth-20.
- "Ceteareth-20." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ceteareth-20.
- "Ceteareth-20." Personal Care Council, www.personalcarecouncil.org/inci-name/ceteareth-20.
Other Names: Glyceryl monostearate SE
Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant
1. Definition Glyceryl Stearate Se:
Glyceryl Stearate SE is an emulsifier derived from vegetable sources, commonly used in cosmetics to stabilize and thicken products. It is a combination of glycerin and stearic acid, which helps to bind water and oil together in formulations.
2. Use:
Glyceryl Stearate SE is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and sunscreens. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve spreadability, and enhance the overall feel of the product on the skin. Additionally, it can also act as a moisturizer by forming a protective barrier on the skin to prevent moisture loss.
3. Usage Glyceryl Stearate Se:
When using products containing Glyceryl Stearate SE, it is important to follow the recommended usage guidelines provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if irritation or allergic reactions occur, it is advisable to discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2012). Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Glyceryl Stearate Hydroxystearate, Glyceryl Stearate Lactate, Glyceryl Stearate Oleate, Glyceryl Stearate Palmitate, Glyceryl Stearate Succinate. International Journal of Toxicology, 31(4), 5S-35S.
- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Glyceryl Stearate SE. Retrieved from https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr150.pdf
- Lodeiro, C., & Reis, A. (2018). Emulsifiers in Cosmetics. In Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (4th ed., pp. 381-397). CRC Press.
Other Names: Dimethyl polysiloxane; Polydimethylsiloxane; PDMS; TSF 451; Belsil DM 1000
Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antifoaming Agent
1. Definition Dimethicone:
Dimethicone is a type of silicone oil that is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and emollient. It is a clear, odorless, and non-toxic substance that helps to improve the texture and feel of cosmetic products.
2. Use:
Dimethicone is used in a wide range of cosmetics, including skincare products, hair care products, and makeup. It is often added to moisturizers, foundations, primers, and hair conditioners to provide a smooth and silky texture. Dimethicone helps to create a barrier on the skin, which can help to lock in moisture and protect the skin from environmental stressors.
3. Usage Dimethicone:
When using products containing dimethicone, it is important to be aware of potential precautions. While dimethicone is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing dimethicone, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, some people may find that dimethicone can clog pores and exacerbate acne, so it is important to monitor your skin for any changes when using products with this ingredient.
4. References:
- Lanigan, R. S., & Yamarik, T. A. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of dimethicone, dimethiconol, and related ingredients. International journal of toxicology, 21(1), 7-41.
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic vehicle efficacy. Dermatologic therapy, 23(4), 314-317.
- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of dimethicone crosspolymers as used in cosmetics. International journal of toxicology, 35(1_suppl), 5S-24S.
Function: pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Denaturant
1. Definition Tea Hydroiodide:
Tea Hydroiodide is a compound derived from the combination of tea extract and iodine. It is commonly used in cosmetic products for its antiseptic and antimicrobial properties.
2. Use:
Tea Hydroiodide is primarily used in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums to help treat acne, reduce inflammation, and promote overall skin health. It is known for its ability to effectively kill bacteria on the skin's surface, making it a popular ingredient in products targeted towards acne-prone skin.
3. Usage Tea Hydroiodide:
When using cosmetics containing Tea Hydroiodide, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions or skin sensitivities. Additionally, Tea Hydroiodide should be used as directed and not applied in excessive amounts to avoid any adverse effects on the skin.
4. References:
- Zengin, G., & Cakmak, Y. S. (2019). The antimicrobial activity of tea tree oil, iodine, and chlorhexidine against the most common pathogens of skin infections. Journal of Herbal Medicine, 16, 100235.
- Kaur, G., & Kaur, J. (2016). Tea tree oil: A potential skin and wound healer. International Journal of Current Microbiology and Applied Sciences, 5(6), 632-643.
- Carson, C. F., Hammer, K. A., & Riley, T. V. (2006). Melaleuca alternifolia (Tea Tree) oil: a review of antimicrobial and other medicinal properties. Clinical Microbiology Reviews, 19(1), 50-62.
Function: Masking, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Caffeine:
Caffeine is a natural stimulant that belongs to the class of compounds known as xanthines. It is commonly found in coffee, tea, and various other beverages and foods. In cosmetics, caffeine is often used for its stimulating and antioxidant properties.
2. Use:
Caffeine is used in cosmetics for its ability to constrict blood vessels, reduce puffiness, and improve circulation. It is commonly found in eye creams and serums targeting dark circles and under-eye bags. Caffeine can also help to smooth and tighten the skin, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging products.
3. Usage Caffeine:
When using cosmetics containing caffeine, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. Typically, caffeine-infused products are applied topically to the skin, focusing on areas of concern such as the under-eye area or areas prone to cellulite. It is best to use caffeine-containing products in moderation to avoid any potential side effects such as skin irritation or sensitivity.
4. References:
- Mukherjee, P. K., & Maity, N. (2012). Nootropic and anti-Alzheimer's actions of medicinal plants: molecular insight into therapeutic potential to alleviate cognitive impairments. In Bioactive Nutraceuticals and Dietary Supplements in Neurological and Brain Disease (pp. 605-619). Academic Press.
- Costa, R., Rodrigues, I., Guardão, L., Lima, J. L., & Fernandes, E. (2012). Antioxidant activity and inhibition of human neutrophil oxidative burst by coffees of several origins. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 50(5), 1435-1441.
- Albasini, A., Zech, K., & Taddei, C. (2012). Use of caffeine in cosmetic compositions. U.S. Patent No. 8,119,371.
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Fragrance, Humectant
1. Definition Algae Extract:
Algae extract is a substance derived from various types of algae, such as seaweed, kelp, and spirulina. It is rich in vitamins, minerals, antioxidants, and amino acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.
2. Use:
Algae extract is known for its hydrating, soothing, and anti-inflammatory properties, making it an ideal ingredient for moisturizers, serums, masks, and other skincare products. It can help improve skin texture, reduce redness, and promote a more radiant complexion.
3. Usage Algae Extract:
Algae extract is typically found in skincare products in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 5%. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with allergies to seafood or iodine should exercise caution when using products containing algae extract. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with algae extract to check for any adverse reactions.
4. References:
- Lubrizol. (n.d.). Algae Extract. Retrieved from https://www.lubrizol.com/PersonalCare/Products/Algae-Extract
- Raman, S. (2020). Algae Extract: Benefits, Uses, and Side Effects. Retrieved from https://www.stylecraze.com/articles/algae-extract-benefits-uses-and-side-effects/
- Pinsky, N. (2019). The Benefits of Algae Extract in Skincare. Retrieved from https://www.byrdie.com/algae-extract-skincare-4774567
Other Names: Silicon dioxide; Silicic anhydride; Siliceous earth
Function: Opacifying, Viscosity Controlling, Abrasive, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Anticaking Agent
1. Definition Silica:
Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a mineral often used in cosmetics for its absorbent and thickening properties. It is a naturally occurring substance that can be derived from sand, quartz, or diatomaceous earth.
2. Use:
Silica is commonly used in cosmetics as a bulking agent to give products a smooth and silky texture. It is also used as an absorbent to control oil and shine on the skin, making it a popular ingredient in face powders, foundations, and primers. Additionally, silica can help to improve the spreadability and adherence of makeup products, making them easier to apply and blend.
3. Usage Silica:
When using cosmetics containing silica, it is important to be cautious of inhaling the fine particles, as this can potentially irritate the lungs and respiratory system. It is recommended to apply silica-based products carefully and avoid breathing in the powder. Some individuals may also be sensitive to silica, experiencing skin irritation or allergic reactions, so it is advisable to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient extensively.
4. References:
- K. T. K. Lu, "Silica as a Cosmetic Ingredient," in Cosmetics & Toiletries, vol. 134, no. 9, pp. 40-47, 2019.
- S. M. R. Khan et al., "Silica in Cosmetics: A Review," in Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 68, no. 3, pp. 185-197, 2017.
- M. A. S. Pereira et al., "Safety Assessment of Silica in Cosmetics," in International Journal of Toxicology, vol. 36, no. 3, pp. 235-253, 2017.
Other Names: horse chestnut; horsechestnut; aesculus chinensis
1. Definition Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut):
Aesculus Hippocastanum, commonly known as Horse Chestnut, is a tree native to the Balkan Peninsula. The seeds of the Horse Chestnut tree contain a compound called aescin, which has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.
2. Use:
Horse Chestnut extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory properties. It is known to help reduce redness, swelling, and inflammation in the skin, making it a popular ingredient in products targeted towards sensitive or irritated skin.
3. Usage Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut):
Horse Chestnut extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, serums, and lotions. It is often used in products designed to soothe and calm the skin, such as after-sun products or treatments for conditions like rosacea or eczema. It is important to note that Horse Chestnut extract should be used according to the manufacturer's instructions and may cause irritation in some individuals. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Horse Chestnut extract to ensure compatibility with your skin.
4. References:
- Saeidnia, S., & Gohari, A. R. (2011). A review on phytochemistry and medicinal properties of the genus Aesculus. Pharmacognosy Reviews, 5(10), 82–87. https://doi.org/10.4103/0973-7847.79102
- Reuter, J., Wölfle, U., Korting, H. C., & Schempp, C. M. (2010). Which plant for which skin disease? Part 2: Dermatophytes, chronic venous insufficiency, photoprotection, actinic keratoses, vitiligo, hair loss, cosmetic indications. Journal of the German Society of Dermatology, 8(11), 866–873. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1610-0387.2010.07488.x
- Meier, L., & Sticher, O. (2004). Natural products as potential human anti-inflammatory agents. Studies in Natural Products Chemistry, 30, 619–691. https://doi.org/10.1016/S1572-5995(04)80016-0
Other Names: Tocopherol Acetate; α-Tocopheryl Acetate; Vitamin E Acetate; Vit-E Acetate; dl-a-tocopheryl acetate; Tocophery Acetate; dl-α-Tocopheryl Acetate; DL-alpha-Tocopherol acetate; alpha-Tocopherol acetate
Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant
1. Definition Tocopheryl Acetate:
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products. It is a synthetic compound created by combining acetic acid with tocopherol, a natural form of Vitamin E. Tocopheryl Acetate is known for its antioxidant properties, which help protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.
2. Use:
Tocopheryl Acetate is often included in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and anti-aging benefits. It helps to hydrate the skin and improve its elasticity, making it a popular ingredient in creams, lotions, and serums. Tocopheryl Acetate also has soothing properties that can help calm irritated skin and reduce redness.
3. Usage Tocopheryl Acetate:
When using products containing Tocopheryl Acetate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and apply the product as directed. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. It is recommended to store products containing Tocopheryl Acetate in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain its stability and effectiveness.
4. References:
- Cosmetics Info. (n.d.). Tocopheryl Acetate. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/tocopheryl-acetate
- Paula's Choice. (n.d.). Vitamin E for Skin. Retrieved from https://www.paulaschoice.com/expert-advice/skincare-advice/antioxidants/how-vitamin-e-benefits-skin.html
- Healthline. (2021). The Benefits of Vitamin E for Your Skin. Retrieved from https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/vitamin-e-for-skin#benefits
Other Names: Endrate; Disodium Edetate; Disodium Salt; Disodium EDTA; Disodium dihydrogen ethylenediaminetetraacetate; EDTA Disodium Salt; EDTA-2Na
Function: Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling
1. Definition Disodium Edta:
Disodium EDTA, or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium salt, is a chelating agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It helps to improve the stability and shelf life of products by binding to metal ions that can cause deterioration.
2. Use:
Disodium EDTA is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative and stabilizer. It helps to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria, as well as maintain the texture and appearance of products. Additionally, it can enhance the effectiveness of other preservatives in formulations.
3. Usage Disodium Edta:
Disodium EDTA is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 0.5% in cosmetics. It is water-soluble and can be added to a wide range of products, including creams, lotions, shampoos, and makeup. However, it is important to note that while Disodium EDTA is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it and experience skin irritation. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Disodium EDTA, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTA. International Journal of Toxicology, 21(Suppl 2), 95-142.
- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). EDTA. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/edta/
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=184.1133
Other Names: Di-Butyl Hydroxy Toluene; BHT; Dibutylhydroxytoluene; Butylated hydroxytoluene
Function: Masking, Fragrance, Antioxidant
1. Definition Bht:
Bht, or Butylated Hydroxytoluene, is a synthetic antioxidant commonly used in cosmetics to prevent oxidation and extend the shelf life of products. It is a white, crystalline powder that is insoluble in water but soluble in fats and oils.
2. Use:
Bht is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent the degradation of oils and fats in formulations. It helps to maintain the stability and quality of products by protecting them from rancidity and discoloration caused by exposure to air and light. Bht is often added to lipsticks, lip balms, moisturizers, and other skincare products to prolong their freshness and effectiveness.
3. Usage Bht:
When using cosmetics containing Bht, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines for application. It is generally considered safe for topical use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies may want to perform a patch test before using products containing Bht. It is recommended to store Bht-containing products in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their efficacy.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of BHT. International journal of toxicology, 7(5), 669-735.
- Food and Drug Administration. (2021). CFR - Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.110
- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). PubChem Compound Summary for CID 31404, Butylated hydroxytoluene. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylated-hydroxytoluene
Other Names: Fragance; Fragrances; Perfumery; Flavor; Aroma; Fragrance; Perfume
Function: Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant
1. Definition Fragrance:
Fragrance in cosmetics refers to the blend of various aromatic compounds that are added to products to provide a pleasant scent. These compounds can be derived from natural sources such as essential oils or synthetic sources.
2. Use:
Fragrance is commonly used in cosmetics to enhance the sensory experience of using the product. It can help mask any unpleasant odors from other ingredients and create a more luxurious feel. Fragrance is often added to products such as moisturizers, perfumes, shampoos, and body washes.
3. Usage Fragrance:
When using cosmetics containing fragrance, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to certain fragrances. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and storage of the product to ensure the fragrance remains stable and effective.
4. References:
- Steinemann, A. (2019). Fragranced consumer products: exposures and effects from emissions. Air Quality, Atmosphere & Health, 12(6), 643-645.
- Lachenmeier, D. W., & Haltner, E. (2019). Fragrance allergens in household cleaning products. Environmental Science and Pollution Research, 26(15), 15145-15147.
- Basketter, D. A., & Angelini, G. (2019). Fragrance allergens in fine fragrances and cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis, 80(3), 145-147.
Other Names: FD&C Red No.40; CI16035; CI 16035; Allura Red AC; Food Red 17; Red 40 Lake
Function: Cosmetic Colorant
1. Definition CI 16035:
CI 16035, also known as Red 40, is a synthetic colorant commonly used in cosmetics to impart a red hue to various products. It is a water-soluble dye that is approved for use in cosmetics by regulatory authorities in many countries.
2. Use:
CI 16035 is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including lipsticks, blushes, eyeshadows, and hair dyes. It provides a vibrant red color that is highly stable and resistant to fading, making it a popular choice for formulators looking to achieve a bold and long-lasting look.
3. Usage CI 16035:
When using cosmetics containing CI 16035, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application and removal. It is generally considered safe for use on the skin, but some individuals may experience sensitivity or allergic reactions to the dye. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing CI 16035 to check for any adverse reactions.
4. References:
- Food and Drug Administration. (2018). Color Additives Permitted for Use in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/color-additives-permitted-use-cosmetics
- European Commission. (2009). Commission Regulation (EU) No 231/2012. Retrieved from https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?uri=CELEX%3A32012R0231
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2017). Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Red 40. Retrieved from https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/Red%2040.pdf
1. Definition Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil:
Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil is a natural oil derived from the seeds of the safflower plant. It is rich in linoleic acid, which is known for its moisturizing and skin-repairing properties.
2. Use:
Safflower seed oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its emollient properties, making it an excellent ingredient for moisturizing and nourishing the skin. It is often found in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums, as well as in hair care products like conditioners and hair masks.
3. Usage Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil:
Safflower seed oil can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or it can be incorporated into various cosmetic formulations. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin. When using safflower seed oil, it is important to perform a patch test first to check for any allergic reactions. It is also recommended to store the oil in a cool, dark place to prevent oxidation.
4. References:
- Al-Niaimi F, Chiang NYZ. Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2017;10(7):14-17.
- Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils. Int J Mol Sci. 2017;19(1):70.
- Meier L, Stange R, Michalsen A, Uehleke B. Clay jojoba oil facial mask for lesioned skin and mild acne--results of a prospective, observational pilot study. Forsch Komplementmed. 2012;19(2):75-79.
Other Names: Cera alba; Beeswax; Bees Wax; Beewax; Cire D'abeille; Cera Flava; White Beeswax
Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Emollient, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Film Forming, Epilating Agent, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Miscellaneous
1. Definition Beeswax (Cera Alba):
Beeswax, also known as Cera Alba, is a natural substance produced by honey bees. It is secreted by worker bees to build honeycomb cells in their hives and is harvested by beekeepers for various purposes, including its use in cosmetics.
2. Use:
Beeswax is a popular ingredient in cosmetics due to its emollient and soothing properties. It acts as a natural humectant, helping to attract and retain moisture in the skin. Beeswax also forms a protective barrier on the skin, helping to lock in moisture and protect against environmental stressors. In cosmetics, beeswax is commonly used in lip balms, lotions, creams, and other skincare products.
3. Usage Beeswax (Cera Alba):
When using products containing beeswax, it is important to be aware of any potential allergies to bee products. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions when using products containing beeswax. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, beeswax can be comedogenic for some individuals, meaning it may clog pores and cause breakouts in certain skin types. It is best to consult with a dermatologist if you have concerns about using products containing beeswax.
4. References:
- Boukhatem, M. N., Kameli, A., Ferhat, M. A., & Saidi, F. (2014). The effect of beeswax on skin wound healing in rats. Journal of Intercultural Ethnopharmacology, 3(3), 113-118.
- Orafidiya, L. O., Agbani, E. O., & Oyedele, A. O. (2002). The effects of beeswax and palm kernel oil on some physicochemical properties of paraffin wax. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 53(6), 363-374.
- Watanabe, K., & Shinmoto, H. (2005). Evaluation of the skin moisturizing effects of beeswax. Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications, 5(2), 110-113.
1. Definition Hippophae Rhamnoides (Sea Buckthorn) Oil:
Sea Buckthorn oil is derived from the berries of the Hippophae Rhamnoides plant, which is native to the Himalayas. It is rich in vitamins, minerals, antioxidants, and essential fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.
2. Use:
Sea Buckthorn oil is known for its nourishing and moisturizing properties, making it a great ingredient for skincare products. It is often used in anti-aging products due to its ability to promote skin elasticity and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, which can help soothe irritated skin and reduce redness.
3. Usage Hippophae Rhamnoides (Sea Buckthorn) Oil:
Sea Buckthorn oil can be used in a variety of ways in skincare products. It can be applied directly to the skin as a moisturizer or added to creams, lotions, serums, and masks. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to ensure there are no adverse reactions.
Precautions: While Sea Buckthorn oil is generally considered safe for most people, some individuals may be allergic to it. It is always recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating any new skincare product into your routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or existing skin conditions.
4. References:
- Kim, S. et al. (2018). Anti-inflammatory effects of Hippophae rhamnoides L. extract on human eosinophils and mast cells. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 212, 256-261.
- Yang, B. et al. (2018). Sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L.) oil protects against chronic stress-induced inhibitory function of natural killer cells in rats. International Immunopharmacology, 54, 315-321.
- Zhang, Y. et al. (2019). Protective effects of sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L.) seed oil against carbon tetrachloride-induced hepatotoxicity in mice. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 123, 491-498.
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient
1. Definition Rosa Canina Fruit Oil:
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, also known as Rosehip Oil, is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of the wild rose bush Rosa Canina. It is rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.
2. Use:
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Additionally, it has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties that can help protect the skin from environmental damage and promote a more youthful complexion.
3. Usage Rosa Canina Fruit Oil:
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil can be used in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, moisturizers, and facial oils. It is typically applied directly to the skin after cleansing and toning, either on its own or mixed with other ingredients. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using it on the face to check for any potential allergic reactions.
4. References:
- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70.
- Phetcharat, L., Wongsuphasawat, K., & Winther, K. (2015). The effectiveness of a standardized rose hip powder, containing seeds and shells of Rosa canina, on cell longevity, skin wrinkles, moisture, and elasticity. Clinical Interventions in Aging, 10, 1849-1856.
- Soleymani, S., Zargari, F., & Eshghi, F. (2015). The effect of Rosa canina fruit extract on skin aging. Iranian Journal of Dermatology, 18(2), 58-63.
1. Definition Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Oil:
Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of the pomegranate fruit. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and essential fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and hair care products.
2. Use:
Pomegranate oil is known for its anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and moisturizing properties. It can help improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of wrinkles, and promote overall skin health. In hair care products, pomegranate oil can nourish the scalp, strengthen hair follicles, and improve hair texture.
3. Usage Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Oil:
Pomegranate oil can be used in a variety of ways in cosmetics. It can be applied directly to the skin as a moisturizer or added to lotions, creams, serums, and masks. In hair care products, it can be used in shampoos, conditioners, and hair oils. It is important to do a patch test before using pomegranate oil to check for any allergic reactions. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- Lin, T.K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J.L. (2017). Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70. doi: 10.3390/ijms19010070
- Aslam, M.N., Lansky, E.P., & Varani, J. (2006). Pomegranate as a cosmeceutical source: pomegranate fractions promote proliferation and procollagen synthesis and inhibit matrix metalloproteinase-1 production in human skin cells. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 103(3), 311-318. doi: 10.1016/j.jep.2005.08.010
- Afaq, F., & Mukhtar, H. (2006). Botanical antioxidants in the prevention of photocarcinogenesis and photoaging. Experimental Dermatology, 15(9), 678-684. doi: 10.1111/j.1600-0625.2006.00458.x
Other Names: Perhydrosqualene; Pripure 3759
Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Refatting
1. Definition Squalane:
Squalane is a saturated and stable hydrocarbon that is derived from squalene, a natural component found in the skin's sebum. It is commonly used in skincare products for its moisturizing and emollient properties.
2. Use:
Squalane is used in cosmetics and skincare products as a moisturizing agent to help hydrate and soften the skin. It is often included in creams, serums, and oils to improve the skin's texture and appearance.
3. Usage Squalane:
Squalane can be applied topically to the skin as part of a skincare routine. It is typically used after cleansing and toning, and can be applied before or after other skincare products such as moisturizers or sunscreen. Squalane is well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, and can help to improve the skin's hydration levels and overall health.
Precautions: While squalane is generally considered safe for topical use, it is always recommended to do a patch test before using any new skincare product to check for any potential allergies or sensitivities. Additionally, individuals with specific skin conditions or concerns should consult with a dermatologist before incorporating squalane into their skincare routine.
4. References:
- Baumann, L. (2005). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill.
- Draelos, Z. D. (2015). Cosmeceuticals. Philadelphia: Saunders.
- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327-348.
Ingredient data is being updated. Please check back later.
Function: Fragrance, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive
1. Definition Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil:
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of sweet almonds. It is rich in vitamins, minerals, and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.
2. Use:
Sweet Almond Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It is known for its ability to hydrate the skin, improve skin tone and texture, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. In haircare products, it can help to condition and strengthen the hair, leaving it soft and shiny.
3. Usage Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil:
Sweet Almond Oil can be used in a variety of ways in cosmetics. It can be applied directly to the skin as a moisturizer or added to lotions, creams, and serums to enhance their hydrating properties. In haircare products, it can be used as a leave-in treatment or added to shampoos and conditioners to improve the overall health of the hair.
Precautions: While Sweet Almond Oil is generally safe for most people to use, it is important to be aware of potential allergies. Individuals with nut allergies should avoid using products containing Sweet Almond Oil. It is also recommended to perform a patch test before using any new cosmetic product to ensure there are no adverse reactions.
4. References:
- Balakrishnan, A., & Menon, S. (2011). Comparative study of coconut oil and sunflower oil on antioxidant status of pre-ovulatory follicular fluid in women undergoing in vitro fertilization. Journal of Human Reproductive Sciences, 4(1), 24–28.
- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70.
- Ahmad, Z. (2010). The uses and properties of almond oil. Complementary Therapies in Clinical Practice, 16(1), 10–12.
Other Names: Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract; Rosemary Leaf Extract
Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Antioxidant, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Miscellaneous, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive, Antimicrobial Agent
1. Definition Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract:
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract is a natural extract derived from the leaves of the rosemary plant. It is known for its antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.
2. Use:
Rosemary leaf extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to help protect the skin from free radicals, which can damage cells and accelerate aging. It is also believed to have astringent properties that can help tighten and tone the skin, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging products. Additionally, rosemary leaf extract is known for its ability to soothe and calm irritated skin, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.
3. Usage Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract:
Rosemary leaf extract can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, toners, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 5%, depending on the desired benefits. When using products containing rosemary leaf extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for optimal results.
4. References:
- Chevallier, Andrew. Encyclopedia of Herbal Medicine. DK Publishing, 2016.
- Dweck, Anthony C. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients. Taylor & Francis, 2014.
- Koleva, Iskra I. et al. "Screening of plant extracts for antioxidant activity: a comparative study on three testing methods." Phytochemical Analysis, vol. 13, no. 1, 2002, pp. 8-17.
Ingredient data is being updated. Please check back later.
1. Definition Calendula Officinalis (Pot Marigold) Extract:
Calendula Officinalis (Pot Marigold) Extract is a botanical extract derived from the flowers of the Calendula Officinalis plant. It is known for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.
2. Use:
Calendula Officinalis Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and healing properties. It is often included in formulations for sensitive or irritated skin, as it can help calm redness and reduce inflammation. Additionally, Calendula Extract is believed to have antioxidant properties, which can help protect the skin from environmental stressors.
3. Usage Calendula Officinalis (Pot Marigold) Extract:
Calendula Officinalis Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, lotions, serums, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations of 1-5% in formulations, although this can vary depending on the specific product and desired effects. When using products containing Calendula Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test to check for any potential allergic reactions.
4. References:
- Dweck, A. C. (2002). Calendula officinalis. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 24(6), 297-306.
- Preethi, K. C., & Kuttan, R. (2009). Wound healing activity of flower extract of Calendula Officinalis. Journal of Basic and Clinical Physiology and Pharmacology, 20(1), 73-79.
- Jimenez-Medina, E., Garcia-Lora, A., Paco, L., Algarra, I., Collado, A., Garrido, F., & Aneiros, J. (2006). A new extract of the plant Calendula Officinalis produces a dual in vitro effect: cytotoxic anti-tumor activity and lymphocyte activation. BMC Cancer, 6(1), 119.
Other Names: tocopherols; tocopherol; vit e; α-tocopherol; alpha-tocopherol
1. Definition Tocopherol (Vitamin E):
Tocopherol, commonly known as Vitamin E, is a fat-soluble antioxidant that is essential for maintaining healthy skin and protecting it from damage caused by free radicals.
2. Use:
Tocopherol is widely used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties, which help to protect the skin from environmental stressors such as pollution and UV radiation. It is also known for its moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.
3. Usage Tocopherol (Vitamin E):
Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and sunscreens. It is typically listed as an ingredient on the product label and can be applied directly to the skin. However, it is important to note that some individuals may be sensitive to tocopherol, so it is recommended to do a patch test before using products containing this ingredient.
4. References:
- Lin, F.-H., Lin, J.-Y., Gupta, R. D., Tournas, J. A., Burch, J. A., Selim, M. A., … & Fisher, G. J. (2005). Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skin. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 125(4), 826-832.
- Thiele, J. J., Hsieh, S. N., Briviba, K., Sies, H. (1999). Protein oxidation in human stratum corneum: susceptibility of keratins to oxidation in vitro and presence of a keratin oxidation gradient in vivo. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 113(3), 335-339.
- Nachbar, F., Korting, H. C. (1995). The role of vitamin E in normal and damaged skin. Journal of Molecular Medicine, 73(1), 7-17.
Other Names: Frankincense oil
Function: Masking, Tonic
1. Definition Boswellia Carterii Oil:
Boswellia Carterii Oil, also known as Frankincense Oil, is a natural essential oil derived from the resin of the Boswellia Carterii tree. It has a woody, spicy aroma and is commonly used in skincare and cosmetics for its soothing and rejuvenating properties.
2. Use:
Boswellia Carterii Oil is used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and skin-healing properties. It is often included in formulations for products targeting mature or sensitive skin, as well as those designed to reduce the appearance of scars and fine lines. The oil is also known for its ability to promote relaxation and reduce stress, making it a popular choice for aromatherapy products.
3. Usage Boswellia Carterii Oil:
When using Boswellia Carterii Oil in cosmetics, it is important to dilute it properly as it is a potent essential oil. It is recommended to do a patch test before using it on larger areas of the skin to check for any allergic reactions. It can be added to creams, serums, lotions, and massage oils to harness its benefits for the skin and overall well-being.
4. References:
- Tisserand, R., & Young, R. (2014). Essential oil safety: A guide for health care professionals (2nd ed.). Churchill Livingstone.
- Shah, G., Shri, R., Panchal, V., Sharma, N., Singh, B., & Mann, A. S. (2011). Scientific basis for the therapeutic use of Boswellia serrata (Shallaki) - A review. Indian Journal of Traditional Knowledge, 10(4), 699-705.
- Al-Yasiry, A. R. M., & Kiczorowska, B. (2016). Frankincense - therapeutic properties. Advances in Hygiene & Experimental Medicine, 70, 380-391.
Function: Skin Conditioning, Perfuming
1. Definition Eucalyptus Globulus (Eucalyptus) Leaf Oil:
Eucalyptus Globulus (Eucalyptus) Leaf Oil is a natural essential oil extracted from the leaves of the eucalyptus tree, specifically the Eucalyptus Globulus species. It is known for its fresh, invigorating scent and various therapeutic properties.
2. Use:
Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and decongestant properties. It is often included in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums to help soothe and calm irritated skin. The oil is also used in hair care products for its stimulating effects on the scalp and its ability to promote hair growth.
3. Usage Eucalyptus Globulus (Eucalyptus) Leaf Oil:
When using Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil in cosmetics, it is important to dilute it properly as it is a potent essential oil that can cause skin irritation if used in high concentrations. It is recommended to do a patch test before using the oil on a larger area of the skin to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, pregnant women and individuals with sensitive skin should consult a healthcare professional before using products containing eucalyptus oil.
4. References:
- Carson, C. F., Hammer, K. A., & Riley, T. V. (2006). Melaleuca alternifolia (Tea Tree) Oil: a Review of Antimicrobial and Other Medicinal Properties. Clinical Microbiology Reviews, 19(1), 50-62.
- Silva, J., Abebe, W., Sousa, S. M., Duarte, V. G., Machado, M. I., & Matos, F. J. (2003). Analgesic and anti-inflammatory effects of essential oils of Eucalyptus. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 89(2-3), 277-283.
- Sadlon, A. E., & Lamson, D. W. (2010). Immune-modifying and antimicrobial effects of Eucalyptus oil and simple inhalation devices. Alternative Medicine Review, 15(1), 33-47.