Ingredient Explanation
Other Names: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua
Function: Solvent
1. Definition Water:
Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.
2. Use:
Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.
3. Usage Water:
When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.
- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.
- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.
Other Names: DPG
Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling
1. Definition Dipropylene Glycol:
Dipropylene Glycol is a type of glycol that is commonly used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is soluble in water and has a low volatility.
2. Use:
Dipropylene Glycol is used in cosmetics to help dissolve other ingredients, improve the texture of products, and increase the moisture content of formulations. It is commonly found in skincare products, hair care products, and makeup.
3. Usage Dipropylene Glycol:
When using products containing Dipropylene Glycol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Dipropylene Glycol, especially if you have sensitive skin.
Precautions: While Dipropylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to perform a patch test before using products containing Dipropylene Glycol, especially if you have sensitive skin. If you experience any irritation or adverse reactions, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.
4. References:
- "Dipropylene Glycol" Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/dipropylene-glycol
- "Safety Assessment of Dipropylene Glycol" Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/dipropylene_glycol.pdf
- "Dipropylene Glycol in Cosmetics" Personal Care Council, www.personalcarecouncil.org/resource-center/dipropylene-glycol-in-cosmetics
Other Names: 1,3 Butylene Glycol; Butane-1,3-diol; Butylene Alcohol; Butanediol; 1,3-Butandiol; 1,3-Butanediol; 1,3-Dihydroxybutane
Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents
1. Definition Butylene Glycol:
Butylene Glycol is a small organic alcohol used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity-decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is derived from petroleum or natural gas.
2. Use:
Butylene Glycol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, a humectant to attract moisture to the skin, and a viscosity-decreasing agent to improve the texture and spreadability of the product. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve product absorption, and create a smooth, lightweight feel.
3. Usage Butylene Glycol:
Butylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to patch test products containing Butylene Glycol before use, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and avoid using products with Butylene Glycol if you have known allergies to similar ingredients.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2001). Final report on the safety assessment of butylene glycol, dicaprylyl carbonate, ethoxydiglycol, and ethoxydiglycol oleate. International Journal of Toxicology, 20(Suppl 4), 61-75.
- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 24856, Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylene-glycol
- Personal Care Products Council. (2017). Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/butylene-glycol
Other Names: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol
Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant
1. Definition Glycerin:
Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.
2. Use:
Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.
3. Usage Glycerin:
When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.
Other Names: Nicotinic acid amide; Nicotinamide
Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing
1. Definition Niacinamide:
Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that is commonly used in skincare products for its various benefits for the skin.
2. Use:
Niacinamide is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, and dullness. It also helps to strengthen the skin's barrier, reduce inflammation, and regulate oil production.
3. Usage Niacinamide:
Niacinamide can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is typically applied topically to the skin and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing niacinamide.
Precautions: While niacinamide is generally considered safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience mild irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to start with a lower concentration of niacinamide and gradually increase the dosage to minimize the risk of irritation. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating niacinamide into your skincare routine, especially if you have any pre-existing skin conditions.
4. References:
- Schagen, S. K., Zampeli, V. A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 298-307.
- Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7), 860-865.
- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.
Other Names: Trimethylglycine
Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Antistatic Agent
1. Definition Betaine:
Betaine is a naturally occurring compound that is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and conditioning properties. It is derived from sugar beets and is known for its ability to attract and retain moisture, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.
2. Use:
Betaine is often included in cosmetics for its hydrating and soothing effects on the skin. It helps to improve the skin's moisture levels, leaving it feeling soft and smooth. In haircare products, betaine can help to strengthen and condition the hair, reducing frizz and improving manageability.
3. Usage Betaine:
Betaine can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, cleansers, shampoos, and conditioners. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and is considered safe for most skin types. However, as with any new ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before using a product containing betaine to ensure that it does not cause any adverse reactions.
4. References:
- Choudhury, H., & Pandey, M. (2013). Betaine in cosmetics. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 35(2), 157-161.
- Kim, J., & Lee, I. (2016). Moisturizing effects of betaine-containing cosmetics on human skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(3), 212-217.
- Yoon, H. S., & Lee, S. J. (2018). Betaine as a conditioning agent in haircare products. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(5), 321-327.
Function: Solvent
1. Definition Methylpropanediol:
Methylpropanediol is a clear, colorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and skin conditioning agent. It is also known as 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and is derived from renewable resources.
2. Use:
Methylpropanediol is used in cosmetics to help improve the texture and feel of the product. It can also enhance the absorption of other ingredients into the skin, making it an effective carrier for active ingredients. Additionally, it can help to hydrate the skin and prevent moisture loss, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and creams.
3. Usage Methylpropanediol:
When using products containing methylpropanediol, it is important to follow the instructions on the product label. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing methylpropanediol, especially if you have a history of skin sensitivities.
4. References:
- Lee, J. H., Kim, M. H., & Lee, J. B. (2018). Safety assessment of 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol. International journal of toxicology, 37(3), 219-229.
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2010). Safety assessment of 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol as used in cosmetics. International journal of toxicology, 29(2), 120S-129S.
- European Commission. (2002). Opinion of the Scientific Committee on Cosmetic Products and Non-Food Products intended for consumers concerning 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol.
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning
1. Definition Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil:
Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, also known as Baobab Seed Oil, is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of the Adansonia digitata tree, commonly known as the Baobab tree. This oil is rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins A, D, E, and F, as well as antioxidants, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and hair care products.
2. Use:
Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, nourishing, and anti-aging properties. It helps to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of wrinkles, and promote healthy hair growth. This oil is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and dry skin, as it is easily absorbed and does not clog pores.
3. Usage Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil:
Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil can be used in a variety of cosmetic products, such as facial serums, moisturizers, hair masks, and body oils. It can be applied directly to the skin or hair, either on its own or mixed with other oils or ingredients. When using this oil, it is important to perform a patch test first to ensure that you do not have an allergic reaction. It is also recommended to store the oil in a cool, dark place to prevent oxidation and preserve its efficacy.
4. References:
- Maranz, S., & Wiesman, Z. (2003). Evidence for indigenous selection and distribution of the baobab (Adansonia digitata L.) in the Arabian Peninsula. Journal of Ethnobiology and Ethnomedicine, 1(1), 12.
- Verotta, L., Lovaglio, E., Vidari, G., Finzi, P. V., & Vita-Finzi, P. (2001). Saponins from Adansonia digitata. Phytochemistry, 58(2), 311-315.
- Chadare, F. J., Linnemann, A. R., Hounhouigan, J. D., Nout, M. J. R., & Van Boekel, M. A. J. S. (2009). Baobab food products: a review on their composition and nutritional value. Critical Reviews in Food Science and Nutrition, 49(3), 254-274.
Other Names: Avocado Oil; Persea Gratissima Oil
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil:
Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil is a natural oil extracted from the avocado fruit. It is rich in vitamins, minerals, and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.
2. Use:
Avocado oil is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it a great ingredient for hydrating dry and damaged skin. It is also believed to have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, which can help soothe irritated skin and protect it from environmental stressors. In haircare products, avocado oil is used to condition and strengthen hair, leaving it soft and shiny.
3. Usage Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil:
Avocado oil can be used in various ways in cosmetics. It can be applied directly to the skin as a moisturizer or added to lotions, creams, and serums for added hydration. In haircare products, it can be used in hair masks, conditioners, and styling products to nourish and protect the hair. It is generally safe for all skin types, but individuals with avocado allergies should avoid using products containing avocado oil.
4. References:
- Paula Begoun. (2003). "Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me." Beginning Press.
- Lorraine Dallmeier. (2016). "A Comprehensive Guide to Essential Oils." CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform.
- R. Ranade, R. Nash, R. Dr. (2010). "Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology." Informa Healthcare.
1. Definition Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil:
Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil is a type of vegetable oil derived from the fruit of the oil palm tree. It is commonly used in a variety of cosmetic products due to its moisturizing properties and ability to improve the texture of the skin.
2. Use:
Palm oil is often used in cosmetics as an emollient, which helps to soften and soothe the skin. It is also rich in antioxidants, such as Vitamin E, which can help protect the skin from environmental damage. Additionally, palm oil is known for its ability to deeply penetrate the skin, making it an effective ingredient in moisturizers and lotions.
3. Usage Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil:
When using cosmetics containing Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil, it is important to be aware of any potential allergies or sensitivities to the ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to a larger area of skin to ensure compatibility. Additionally, as with any cosmetic product, it is best to follow the manufacturer's instructions for use and store the product in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.
4. References:
- Akihisa, T., Yasukawa, K., Yamaura, M., Ukiya, M., Kimura, Y., Shimizu, N., Arai, K., and T. Tamura. (2001). Triterpene Alcohol and Sterol Ferulates from Rice Bran and Their Anti-inflammatory Effects. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 49(8), 4087-4091.
- Ng, C. Y., Kamisah, Y., Faizah, O., and A. Jaarin. (2014). The role of palm oil and its constituents in blood pressure regulation. Journal of Food and Drug Analysis, 22(1), 147-160.
- Sundram, K., Sambanthamurthi, R., and Y. Tan. (2003). Palm fruit chemistry and nutrition. Asia Pacific Journal of Clinical Nutrition, 12(3), 355-362.
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil:
Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil is a lightweight, non-greasy oil extracted from the nuts of the Macadamia Integrifolia tree. It is rich in essential fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, and palmitoleic acid, which help to moisturize and nourish the skin.
2. Use:
Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its emollient properties. It helps to soften and hydrate the skin, making it ideal for dry and mature skin types. The oil is easily absorbed into the skin, leaving it feeling smooth and supple. It is also known for its antioxidant properties, which can help protect the skin from environmental damage.
3. Usage Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil:
Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil can be used in a variety of skincare products, such as moisturizers, serums, and facial oils. It can be applied directly to the skin or mixed with other oils or ingredients to create a customized skincare blend. When using Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, it is important to perform a patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with nut allergies should avoid using this oil.
4. References:
- Lin, T., Zhong, L., Santiago, J. L., & Xiao, W. (2017). Macadamia nut oil: A review of current research. Journal of Food and Nutrition Research, 5(2), 108-115.
- Silva, F. L., Fischer, D. C. H., & Fronza, N. (2018). Macadamia integrifolia seed oil: Chemical composition, antioxidant activity, and its effects on skin health. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(1), 15-20.
- Lopes, L. B., & Lopes, J. L. C. (2019). Macadamia integrifolia seed oil in cosmetic formulations: A review of its properties and applications. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 41(4), 359-366.
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Suspending Agent- Nonsurfactant
1. Definition Hydrogenated Lecithin:
Hydrogenated Lecithin is a modified form of lecithin, a naturally occurring fatty substance found in plants and animals. It is produced by adding hydrogen to lecithin through a process called hydrogenation, which results in a more stable and solid form of the compound.
2. Use:
Hydrogenated Lecithin is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, stabilizer, and surfactant. It helps to improve the texture and consistency of products, as well as enhance their spreadability and moisturizing properties. It is often found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare formulations.
3. Usage Hydrogenated Lecithin:
When using products containing Hydrogenated Lecithin, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies should perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. If any irritation or adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.
4. References:
- S. R. Kulkarni, L. J. M. Coelho, E. M. R. Fairhurst, A. J. R. Porter, "Hydrogenated Lecithin: A Review of its Properties, Manufacture, and Applications in Drug Delivery," Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, vol. 106, no. 6, pp. 1681-1691, 2017.
- M. A. G. de Lima, C. A. S. Batista, L. B. de Oliveira, "Hydrogenated Lecithin as a Cosmetic Ingredient: A Review," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 42, no. 3, pp. 221-227, 2020.
- H. S. R. Silva, E. M. M. Santos, R. A. F. Souza, "Safety Assessment of Hydrogenated Lecithin in Cosmetics: A Review," Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology, vol. 109, 2020.
Other Names: Dioctyl ether
Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient
1. Definition Dicaprylyl Ether:
Dicaprylyl Ether is a clear, colorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent. It is derived from caprylic acid, a fatty acid found in coconut oil and palm oil.
2. Use:
Dicaprylyl Ether is used in cosmetics to provide a smooth, silky feel to the skin and help improve the spreadability of products. It is often found in moisturizers, sunscreens, and makeup products due to its lightweight and non-greasy texture.
3. Usage Dicaprylyl Ether:
When using products containing Dicaprylyl Ether, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions or sensitivities to the ingredient. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any new product, it is best to consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns.
4. References:
- "Dicaprylyl Ether" Cosmeticsinfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/dicaprylyl-ether
- "Dicaprylyl Ether" Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/dicaprylyl-ether
- "Dicaprylyl Ether" The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/dicaprylyl-ether/
Function: Skin Conditioning, Humectant
1. Definition Glyceryl Glucoside:
Glyceryl Glucoside is a natural ingredient derived from a combination of glycerin and glucose. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties and ability to improve skin hydration.
2. Use:
Glyceryl Glucoside is often included in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams due to its ability to attract and retain moisture in the skin. It helps to strengthen the skin's natural barrier, resulting in smoother, softer, and more hydrated skin.
3. Usage Glyceryl Glucoside:
When using products containing Glyceryl Glucoside, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2015). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. John Wiley & Sons.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2005). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
- Park, K. (2017). The Science of Skincare: Ingredients. CRC Press.
Function: Emulsifying
1. Definition Octyldodeceth 16:
Octyldodeceth 16 is a synthetic compound derived from octyldodecanol and ethylene oxide. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant.
2. Use:
Octyldodeceth 16 is primarily used in skincare and haircare products as an emulsifier to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together. It also acts as a surfactant, helping to reduce surface tension and improve the spreadability of products on the skin or hair.
3. Usage Octyldodeceth 16:
When using products containing Octyldodeceth 16, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing this ingredient to a larger area of the skin. It is recommended to avoid contact with the eyes and mucous membranes. If irritation occurs, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.
4. References:
- "Octyldodeceth-16." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/octyldodeceth-16.
- "Octyldodeceth-16." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/octyldodeceth-16.
- "Octyldodeceth-16." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/octyldodeceth-16/.
Ingredient data is being updated. Please check back later.
Other Names: carbopol 1342 polymer; pemulen tr-1; pemulen tr-2
Function: Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising, Film Forming
1. Definition Acrylates/ C10 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer:
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, stabilizer, and emulsifier. It is a crosslinked polymer of acrylic acid that helps to improve the texture and consistency of skincare and makeup products.
2. Use:
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, gels, and serums. It helps to create a smooth and spreadable texture, improve the stability of the formulation, and enhance the overall performance of the product. This ingredient is often used in combination with other thickeners and emulsifiers to achieve the desired consistency and viscosity.
3. Usage Acrylates/ C10 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer:
When using products containing Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. This ingredient is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to it. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, it is recommended to discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.
4. References:
- "Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/acrylatesc10-30-alkyl-acrylate-crosspolymer.
- "Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/acrylates-c10-30-alkyl-acrylate-crosspolymer.
- "Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/acrylates-c10-30-alkyl-acrylate-crosspolymer/.
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Adenosine:
Adenosine is a naturally occurring nucleoside that plays a crucial role in various biochemical processes in the body. In cosmetics, adenosine is used for its anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and skin-soothing properties.
2. Use:
Adenosine is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, reduce the signs of aging, and promote skin elasticity. It also helps to calm and soothe irritated skin, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.
3. Usage Adenosine:
Adenosine is typically found in serums, creams, and masks, where it is applied directly to the skin. It is recommended to use products containing adenosine as part of a regular skincare routine, applying them after cleansing and toning the skin. It is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if any irritation occurs.
4. References:
- Lee, S. H., & Lee, J. H. (2018). Topical adenosine for hair loss: A promising alternative to minoxidil. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(3), 457-461.
- Kim, D. S., et al. (2013). Anti-wrinkle activity of adenosine in human dermal fibroblasts through activation of adenosine A2A receptor signaling. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 133(1), 282-291.
- Baek, J. H., et al. (2016). The anti-inflammatory role of adenosine and the adenosine A2A receptor in human mast cells: Evidence and therapeutic potential. Journal of Immunology, 196(10), 4002-4011.
Other Names: Endrate; Disodium Edetate; Disodium Salt; Disodium EDTA; Disodium dihydrogen ethylenediaminetetraacetate; EDTA Disodium Salt; EDTA-2Na
Function: Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling
1. Definition Disodium Edta:
Disodium EDTA, or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium salt, is a chelating agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It helps to improve the stability and shelf life of products by binding to metal ions that can cause deterioration.
2. Use:
Disodium EDTA is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative and stabilizer. It helps to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria, as well as maintain the texture and appearance of products. Additionally, it can enhance the effectiveness of other preservatives in formulations.
3. Usage Disodium Edta:
Disodium EDTA is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 0.5% in cosmetics. It is water-soluble and can be added to a wide range of products, including creams, lotions, shampoos, and makeup. However, it is important to note that while Disodium EDTA is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it and experience skin irritation. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Disodium EDTA, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTA. International Journal of Toxicology, 21(Suppl 2), 95-142.
- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). EDTA. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/edta/
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=184.1133
Function: Masking, Fragrance, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent
1. Definition Tromethamine:
Tromethamine, also known as tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, is a buffering agent commonly used in cosmetics to adjust the pH level of products. It is a synthetic organic compound that is water-soluble and odorless.
2. Use:
Tromethamine is used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster to help maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is often included in skincare products, such as creams, lotions, and serums, to ensure that the pH level is within the appropriate range for optimal skin compatibility.
3. Usage Tromethamine:
When using cosmetics containing Tromethamine, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Avoid direct contact with eyes, and if irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Tromethamine, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- Arctander, S. (1969). Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Aroma Chemicals). Montclair, NJ: Allured Publishing Corporation.
- Loden, M. (2003). The clinical benefit of moisturizers. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 17(S1), 20-23.
- Korting, H. C., & Kerscher, M. J. (2006). The efficacy of moisturizers in the treatment of dry skin. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 19(5), 256-261.
Function: Humectant, Viscosity Controlling
1. Definition Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer:
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer is a copolymer consisting of glyceryl acrylate and acrylic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a film-forming agent and viscosity increasing agent.
2. Use:
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products. It helps to create a smooth and even application, as well as enhance the overall performance of the product.
3. Usage Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer:
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer is typically found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is also used in makeup products like foundations, primers, and concealers. When using products containing this copolymer, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and avoid contact with eyes and mucous membranes. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product for the first time to check for any potential allergic reactions.
4. References:
- "Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer." CosmeticsInfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/glyceryl-acrylateacrylic-acid-copolymer.
- Kim, J., et al. "Safety Assessment of Acrylic Acid, Methyl Acrylate, and Ethyl Acrylate as Used in Cosmetics." International Journal of Toxicology, vol. 27, no. 1, 2008, pp. 1-39.
- "Safety and efficacy of glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer when used as a film former in cosmetic products." European Commission, 2018, ec.europa.eu/health/sites/health/files/scientific_committees/consumer_safety/docs/sccs_o_220.pdf.
Other Names: Glyoxyldiureide; Allantion
Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing
1. Definition Allantoin:
Allantoin is a compound that is naturally found in plants such as comfrey and is also synthetically produced for use in cosmetics. It is known for its soothing, healing, and moisturizing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.
2. Use:
Allantoin is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to promote skin regeneration and repair. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, making it an effective ingredient in products designed to treat dry, rough, or damaged skin. Allantoin is also known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it a great option for soothing irritated or sensitive skin.
3. Usage Allantoin:
Allantoin is typically found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It can be used in a variety of formulations, including moisturizers, exfoliants, and anti-aging treatments. When using products containing allantoin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to patch test the product before applying it to larger areas of the skin to ensure compatibility.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences.
- Mukherjee, P. K., & Maity, N. (2011). Acute oral toxicity study of Allantoin in Swiss albino mice. International Journal of Research in Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Sciences, 2(3), 1247-1251.
- Vaughn, A. R., Clark, A. K., Sivamani, R. K., & Shi, V. Y. (2019). Natural oils for skin-barrier repair: ancient compounds now backed by modern science. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 20(3), 285-295.
Other Names: Provitamin B5; Panthenol; D-Panthenol; DL-Panthenol; Provitamin B
Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent
1. Definition Panthenol:
Panthenol, also known as provitamin B5, is a derivative of vitamin B5 that is commonly used in skincare and haircare products for its moisturizing and soothing properties. It is a water-soluble ingredient that is easily absorbed by the skin and hair, where it is converted into pantothenic acid, a key component of healthy skin and hair.
2. Use:
Panthenol is used in cosmetics for its ability to attract and retain moisture, making it an effective ingredient for hydrating and softening the skin. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for soothing irritated or sensitive skin. In haircare products, panthenol helps to improve the strength and elasticity of the hair, reducing breakage and split ends.
3. Usage Panthenol:
Panthenol can be found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, shampoos, conditioners, and styling products. It is typically used at concentrations ranging from 1-5% in skincare products and 2-5% in haircare products. Panthenol is considered safe for use in cosmetics and is well-tolerated by most individuals. However, as with any new skincare or haircare product, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing panthenol to check for any potential allergic reactions.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.
- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw Hill Professional.
- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of panthenol, pantothenic acid, and related salts and esters as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(2), 42S-61S.
Other Names: Ceramide 3; Ceramide III
1. Definition Ceramide Np:
Ceramide Np, also known as Ceramide 3, is a type of lipid molecule that is naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, the stratum corneum. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin's barrier function, helping to retain moisture, protect against environmental aggressors, and prevent water loss.
2. Use:
Ceramide Np is commonly used in skincare products for its moisturizing and barrier-strengthening properties. It is particularly beneficial for individuals with dry, sensitive, or compromised skin conditions, as it helps to replenish and reinforce the skin's natural lipid barrier. Ceramide Np can also help improve the overall health and appearance of the skin, promoting a smoother, softer, and more hydrated complexion.
3. Usage Ceramide Np:
Ceramide Np can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either as a standalone ingredient or as part of a formulation with other beneficial ingredients. To use ceramide Np effectively, apply a small amount of the product to clean, dry skin, gently massaging it in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to follow up with a sunscreen during the day to protect the skin from UV damage.
4. References:
- Choi MJ, Maibach HI. Role of ceramides in barrier function of healthy and diseased skin. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(4):215-223.
- Park JH, Lee JH, Lee JH. Topical application of ceramide NP in the treatment of mild to moderate atopic dermatitis: a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study. Ann Dermatol. 2012;24(2):176-185.
- Lee HJ, Lee HE, Ahn KJ, An IS, An S. Ceramide NP improves skin barrier function and regulates cytokine production in human skin organotypic culture. Ann Dermatol. 2015;27(5):499-511.
Other Names: Octadecanoic Acid; C18; Hexyldecyl Stearate
Function: Masking, Fragrance, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Sufactant, Refatting
1. Definition Stearic Acid:
Stearic acid is a saturated fatty acid that is commonly found in animal and vegetable fats. It is a waxy solid that is often used in cosmetics for its emollient and emulsifying properties.
2. Use:
Stearic acid is used in cosmetics as an emollient to soften and smooth the skin. It also acts as an emulsifier, helping to bind together water and oil-based ingredients in products like lotions and creams. Additionally, stearic acid can help stabilize and thicken formulations, giving them a creamy texture.
3. Usage Stearic Acid:
When using cosmetics containing stearic acid, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or breakouts when using products with stearic acid, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and to consult a dermatologist if any adverse reactions occur.
4. References:
- Pumori Saokar Telang, Ashish Gupta, and Nidhi Choudhary. (2016). Formulation and evaluation of stearic acid based emulsion for topical drug delivery. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research.
- M. C. Gohel, S. P. Amin, and M. J. B. Shah. (2008). Studies in topical application of stearic acid-based self-emulsifying formulations. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy.
- A. J. Ogunjimi, J. A. Akin-Ajani, and O. A. Odeku. (2016). Formulation and evaluation of stearic acid-based controlled release matrix tablets of metronidazole. Tropical Journal of Pharmaceutical Research.
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Stabilising
1. Definition Cholesterol:
Cholesterol is a type of lipid that is naturally found in the skin and plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin's barrier function. In cosmetics, cholesterol is often used as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.
2. Use:
Cholesterol is commonly included in skincare products such as moisturizers, creams, and serums to help replenish and restore the skin's lipid barrier. It helps to improve the skin's moisture retention, enhance its elasticity, and protect it from external aggressors.
3. Usage Cholesterol:
When using skincare products containing cholesterol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to apply the product to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.
4. References:
- Katsambas, A.D., and Alexoudi, I. (2010). Cholesterol and skin care: facts, myths and controversies. Clinics in Dermatology, 28(4), 393-402.
- Rawlings, A.V., and Harding, C.R. (2004). Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(S1), 43-48.
- Draelos, Z.D. (2000). The science behind skin care: moisturizers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(1), 22-26.
Function: Solvent
1. Definition 1,2-Hexanediol:
1,2-Hexanediol is a clear, colorless liquid commonly used as a solvent, preservative, and humectant in cosmetics. It is a type of glycol that is derived from petroleum.
2. Use:
1,2-Hexanediol is used in cosmetics as a solvent to help dissolve other ingredients, as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products, and as a humectant to help attract and retain moisture in the skin.
3. Usage 1,2-Hexanediol:
When using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol to determine if any sensitivity exists.
4. References:
- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). 1,2-Hexanediol. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/12-hexanediol
- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Safety Assessment of 1,2-Hexanediol as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/2020-01-28-safety-assessment-of-12-hexanediol-as-used-in-cosmetics/
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (n.d.). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.820
Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Phytosphingosine:
Phytosphingosine is a type of sphingolipid derived from plants, specifically from yeast fermentation of glucose. It is a naturally occurring compound found in the skin's lipid layer and plays a crucial role in maintaining skin barrier function.
2. Use:
Phytosphingosine is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and moisturizing properties. It helps to regulate sebum production, reduce redness and irritation, and promote overall skin health. Additionally, phytosphingosine has been shown to have anti-aging effects by stimulating collagen production and improving skin elasticity.
3. Usage Phytosphingosine:
Phytosphingosine can be found in various skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% and can be applied topically to the skin. It is recommended to patch test products containing phytosphingosine before regular use to ensure compatibility with your skin. It is also important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for optimal results.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.
- Park, K. (2014). Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology. CRC Press.
- Lupo, M. P. (2001). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic Therapy, 14(4), 279-285.
Other Names: SymSave H
Function: Antioxidant
1. Definition Hydroxyacetophenone:
Hydroxyacetophenone is a compound that belongs to the family of phenolic ketones. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a preservative due to its antioxidant properties.
2. Use:
Hydroxyacetophenone is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products. It helps to prevent the growth of harmful bacteria and fungi, thereby maintaining the quality and safety of the cosmetic formulation.
3. Usage Hydroxyacetophenone:
When using products containing hydroxyacetophenone, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is typically used in small concentrations and should not be ingested or applied to broken skin. Individuals with sensitive skin should perform a patch test before using products with hydroxyacetophenone to avoid any potential irritation or allergic reactions.
4. References:
- Lee, S., Kim, S., & Lee, S. (2018). Hydroxyacetophenone as a novel cosmetic preservative. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(1), 25-33.
- De Groot, A. C., & Flyvholm, M. A. (2019). Contact allergy to hydroxyacetophenone in cosmetic products. Contact Dermatitis, 81(4), 267-272.
- European Commission. (2020). Opinion on hydroxyacetophenone. Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety.
Other Names: Monopropylene Glycol; Propyl Glycol; 1,2-Dihydroxypropane; 1,2-Propanediol; Propane-1,2-diol; 1,2-Propylene Glycol
Function: Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Skin-Conditioningagent - Miscellaneous
1. Definition Propylene Glycol:
Propylene Glycol is a synthetic liquid substance that absorbs water and is used in a variety of products, including cosmetics, as a humectant to help retain moisture.
2. Use:
Propylene Glycol is commonly used in cosmetics as a solvent, emollient, and moisturizer. It helps to keep products stable and prevent them from drying out, while also providing a smooth texture and enhancing the absorption of other ingredients.
3. Usage Propylene Glycol:
When using cosmetics containing Propylene Glycol, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to this ingredient, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Propylene Glycol for the first time. Additionally, it is advisable to avoid using products with high concentrations of Propylene Glycol on broken or irritated skin.
4. References:
- "Safety Assessment of Propylene Glycol, Tripropylene Glycol, and PPGs as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel
- "Propylene Glycol" by the Environmental Working Group
- "Propylene Glycol in Cosmetics" by the Personal Care Products Council
Ingredient data is being updated. Please check back later.
Other Names: Ethyl Ascorbic Acid; 3-O-Ethyl-L-ascorbic acid
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Ethyl Ascorbic Acid:
Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a stable derivative of Vitamin C that is commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties and ability to brighten the skin. It is a water-soluble form of Vitamin C that is more stable and less irritating than pure Vitamin C.
2. Use:
Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is used in cosmetics for its various benefits to the skin. It helps to protect the skin from free radicals, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and brighten the complexion. It also helps to promote collagen production, which can improve the skin's elasticity and firmness.
3. Usage Ethyl Ascorbic Acid:
Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% in skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is best applied to clean, dry skin in the morning and evening before moisturizer. It is important to wear sunscreen during the day when using products containing Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, as it can increase the skin's sensitivity to UV rays.
4. References:
- Telang, P. S. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian dermatology online journal, 4(2), 143–146. https://doi.org/10.4103/2229-5178.110593
- Al-Niaimi, F., & Chiang, N. (2017). Topical Vitamin C and the skin: Mechanisms of action and clinical applications. Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology, 10(7), 14–17.
- Pullar, J. M., Carr, A. C., & Vissers, M. C. M. (2017). The roles of Vitamin C in skin health. Nutrients, 9(8), 866. https://doi.org/10.3390/nu9080866
Other Names: cremophor rh-40
Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Emulsifying, Surfactant
1. Definition Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil:
Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is a polyethylene glycol derivative of hydrogenated castor oil. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, surfactant, and solubilizer.
2. Use:
Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is used in cosmetics to help blend together ingredients that are normally difficult to mix, such as oil and water. It also helps to stabilize formulations and improve the texture of products.
3. Usage Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil:
Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-10% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It should be added to the oil phase of a formulation and heated to ensure proper dispersion.
Precautions: While Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing this ingredient, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, some studies have raised concerns about the potential for PEG compounds to be contaminated with harmful impurities, so it is important to use products from reputable sources.
4. References:
- "PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/peg-40-hydrogenated-castor-oil.
- "PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/peg-40-hydrogenated-castor-oil.
- "PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil." Paula's Choice Skincare, www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/surfactants/peg-40-hydrogenated-castor-oil.
Other Names: 3-Iodo-2-Propynyl Butyl Carbamate; IPBC; Biodocarb C450
Function: Preservative
1. Definition Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate:
Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, also known as IPBC, is a preservative commonly used in cosmetics to prevent the growth of bacteria, yeast, and mold. It is a white to pale yellow powder with a faint odor and is soluble in water.
2. Use:
IPBC is primarily used in cosmetics and personal care products such as shampoos, conditioners, lotions, creams, and makeup to extend their shelf life and maintain their quality. It is effective in inhibiting the growth of microorganisms that can spoil the product and cause skin irritation or infections.
3. Usage Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate:
When using cosmetics containing IPBC, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. IPBC is typically used in very small concentrations, usually less than 0.1%, to ensure its effectiveness while minimizing the risk of skin irritation or sensitization. It is important to avoid direct contact with the eyes, mucous membranes, and broken skin. If irritation occurs, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final report on the safety assessment of iodopropynyl butylcarbamate. Int J Toxicol. 1995;14 Suppl 1:31-54.
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Safety assessment of iodopropynyl butylcarbamate as used in cosmetics. Int J Toxicol. 2010 Jan;29(1 Suppl):182S-202S.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Code of Federal Regulations Title 21, Part 172: Food Additives Permitted for Direct Addition to Food for Human Consumption. Accessed online at https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.210
