Ingredient Explanation
Other Names: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua
Function: Solvent
1. Definition Water:
Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.
2. Use:
Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.
3. Usage Water:
When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.
- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.
- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.
Other Names: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol
Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant
1. Definition Glycerin:
Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.
2. Use:
Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.
3. Usage Glycerin:
When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.
Other Names: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE
Function: Fragrance, Preservative
1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:
Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.
2. Use:
Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.
3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:
When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.
Function: Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent
1. Definition Citric Acid:
Citric acid is a weak organic acid that is naturally found in citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and limes. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, preservative, and exfoliant.
2. Use:
Citric acid is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, which helps to maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is also used as a preservative to extend the shelf life of cosmetics by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, citric acid is used as an exfoliant in skincare products to help slough off dead skin cells and promote cell turnover.
3. Usage Citric Acid:
When using cosmetics containing citric acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. Citric acid can be irritating to the skin, especially in high concentrations, so it is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to avoid using products containing citric acid on broken or irritated skin, as this can further aggravate the condition.
4. References:
- "Citric Acid in Cosmetics: Is It Safe?" by Healthline
- "The Role of Citric Acid in Cosmetics" by The Derm Review
- "Citric Acid: Benefits, Uses, and Side Effects" by Verywell Health
Other Names: Capryl Glycol; 1,2-Octanediol; 1,2-Dihydroxyoctane; 1,2-Octylene glycol
Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient
1. Definition Caprylyl Glycol:
Caprylyl Glycol is a skin conditioning agent and emollient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from caprylic acid, which is found in coconut and palm oils.
2. Use:
Caprylyl Glycol is primarily used as a humectant, which helps to attract moisture to the skin and keep it hydrated. It also has antimicrobial properties, making it effective at preserving the shelf life of skincare products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, Caprylyl Glycol can enhance the texture of products, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft.
3. Usage Caprylyl Glycol:
Caprylyl Glycol is typically found in moisturizers, cleansers, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Caprylyl Glycol to their entire face. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the effectiveness and safety of the product.
4. References:
- Monkare J, Maczka W, Matuszak Ż, et al. Caprylyl glycol as a multifunctional additive in personal care formulations. Cosmetics. 2020;7(1):17. doi:10.3390/cosmetics7010017
- Lodeiro C, Margus T, Pinto S, et al. Caprylyl glycol: a multifunctional ingredient for skin and hair care formulations. SOFW J. 2017;143(11):42-48.
- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: moisturizers. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(9):s27-s30.
Other Names: Provitamin B5; Panthenol; D-Panthenol; DL-Panthenol; Provitamin B
Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent
1. Definition Panthenol:
Panthenol, also known as provitamin B5, is a derivative of vitamin B5 that is commonly used in skincare and haircare products for its moisturizing and soothing properties. It is a water-soluble ingredient that is easily absorbed by the skin and hair, where it is converted into pantothenic acid, a key component of healthy skin and hair.
2. Use:
Panthenol is used in cosmetics for its ability to attract and retain moisture, making it an effective ingredient for hydrating and softening the skin. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for soothing irritated or sensitive skin. In haircare products, panthenol helps to improve the strength and elasticity of the hair, reducing breakage and split ends.
3. Usage Panthenol:
Panthenol can be found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, shampoos, conditioners, and styling products. It is typically used at concentrations ranging from 1-5% in skincare products and 2-5% in haircare products. Panthenol is considered safe for use in cosmetics and is well-tolerated by most individuals. However, as with any new skincare or haircare product, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing panthenol to check for any potential allergic reactions.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.
- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw Hill Professional.
- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of panthenol, pantothenic acid, and related salts and esters as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(2), 42S-61S.
Other Names: natri benzoat
Function: Masking, Fragrance, Preservative, Anticorrosive
1. Definition Sodium Benzoate:
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative commonly used in cosmetics to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi in products. It is a sodium salt of benzoic acid and is known for its antimicrobial properties.
2. Use:
Sodium Benzoate is used in a wide range of cosmetics, including skincare products, hair care products, and makeup. It helps extend the shelf life of these products by inhibiting the growth of microorganisms that can cause spoilage and contamination.
3. Usage Sodium Benzoate:
When using products containing Sodium Benzoate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations recommended by regulatory agencies. However, some individuals may be sensitive to Sodium Benzoate and may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using products containing this preservative, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- "Sodium Benzoate in Cosmetics: Uses and Safety" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/ingredients/sodium-benzoate
- "Safety Assessment of Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Benzoate, and Benzoic Acid" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel, https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/1091581815591024
- "Preservatives in Cosmetics" by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/preservatives-cosmetics
Other Names: Monopropylene Glycol; Propyl Glycol; 1,2-Dihydroxypropane; 1,2-Propanediol; Propane-1,2-diol; 1,2-Propylene Glycol
Function: Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Skin-Conditioningagent - Miscellaneous
1. Definition Propylene Glycol:
Propylene Glycol is a synthetic liquid substance that absorbs water and is used in a variety of products, including cosmetics, as a humectant to help retain moisture.
2. Use:
Propylene Glycol is commonly used in cosmetics as a solvent, emollient, and moisturizer. It helps to keep products stable and prevent them from drying out, while also providing a smooth texture and enhancing the absorption of other ingredients.
3. Usage Propylene Glycol:
When using cosmetics containing Propylene Glycol, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to this ingredient, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Propylene Glycol for the first time. Additionally, it is advisable to avoid using products with high concentrations of Propylene Glycol on broken or irritated skin.
4. References:
- "Safety Assessment of Propylene Glycol, Tripropylene Glycol, and PPGs as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel
- "Propylene Glycol" by the Environmental Working Group
- "Propylene Glycol in Cosmetics" by the Personal Care Products Council
Function: Fragrance, Preservative
1. Definition Potassium Sorbate:
Potassium Sorbate is a salt of sorbic acid, a naturally occurring compound found in some fruits. It is commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics to prevent the growth of mold, yeast, and bacteria, extending the shelf life of the product.
2. Use:
Potassium Sorbate is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent microbial contamination. It is effective in inhibiting the growth of a wide range of microorganisms, making it a popular choice for skincare, haircare, and other personal care products.
3. Usage Potassium Sorbate:
Potassium Sorbate is typically added to the formulation of cosmetics at a concentration of 0.1-0.5% to effectively preserve the product. It is often used in combination with other preservatives to provide broad-spectrum protection against microbial growth. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by the supplier to ensure the safety and efficacy of the preservative.
4. References:
- “Potassium Sorbate.” Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/potassium-sorbate.
- “Potassium Sorbate.” Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/potassium-sorbate.
- “Potassium Sorbate: Uses, Safety, and More.” Healthline, www.healthline.com/health/potassium-sorbate.
Other Names: Hyaluronic Acid Sodium Salt; Kopuron
Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Sodium Hyaluronate:
Sodium Hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring substance in the human body that is known for its ability to retain moisture and improve skin hydration.
2. Use:
Sodium Hyaluronate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and skin-plumping properties. It is a popular ingredient in anti-aging products due to its ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by hydrating the skin and promoting collagen production.
3. Usage Sodium Hyaluronate:
When using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either in the form of a serum, cream, or mask. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.
Precautions: While Sodium Hyaluronate is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, it is always recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions. Additionally, it is important to avoid using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate if you are allergic to hyaluronic acid or any other ingredients in the product.
4. References:
- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.
- Pavicic, T., Gauglitz, G. G., Lersch, P., Schwach-Abdellaoui, K., Malle, B., & Korting, H. C. (2011). Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD, 10(9), 990-1000.
- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.
Other Names: Carboxypolymethylene; Carbopol; Cabomer
Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming
1. Definition Carbomer:
Carbomer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and stabilizer. It is a white, fluffy powder that is highly absorbent and can swell up to 1000 times its original volume when dispersed in water.
2. Use:
Carbomer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, gels, and serums. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the stability of emulsions, and enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Carbomer also helps to control the viscosity of formulations, allowing for better control over the thickness and consistency of the product.
3. Usage Carbomer:
When using products containing Carbomer, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. Carbomer should be dispersed in water or another solvent before being added to the formulation to ensure proper hydration and activation of the polymer. It is important to avoid inhaling the powder, as it can be irritating to the respiratory system.
4. References:
- Sharma, A., & Jain, A. (2012). Carbomers: A review. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 3(3), 805-814.
- Liao, Y., & Wang, J. (2017). Carbomer: A versatile polymer in pharmaceutical applications. Polymer Chemistry, 8(3), 355-366.
- Patel, D. (2015). Carbomer in pharmaceuticals: A review. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, 4(2), 121-133.
Other Names: 1,3-Propylene Glycol; 1,3-Dihydroxypropane; 1,3-Propanediol; Zemea Propanediol
Function: Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling
1. Definition Propanediol:
Propanediol is a colorless, odorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant, solvent, and emollient. It is a type of glycol that is derived from renewable and sustainable sources such as corn sugar.
2. Use:
Propanediol is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and feel of products. It helps to hydrate the skin by attracting and retaining moisture, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and lotions. Additionally, propanediol can enhance the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products, making them more effective.
3. Usage Propanediol:
Propanediol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow recommended guidelines and precautions. It is recommended to patch test products containing propanediol before applying them to larger areas of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure optimal results and minimize the risk of irritation.
4. References:
- Zhang, X., Qian, H., & Tang, S. (2018). Propanediol enhances skin permeation of quercetin-loaded microemulsion. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy, 44(6), 1010-1016.
- Rigo, L. A., da Silva, D. F., & Sayer, C. (2019). Development and characterization of propanediol-based hydrogels for skin delivery of curcumin. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 132, 73-81.
- Huang, D., Zhang, Y., & Zhang, Z. (2017). Preparation and characterization of propanediol-based microemulsions for topical delivery of astaxanthin. Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology, 38(9), 1317-1323.
Other Names: SALACOS 99; Dermol 99; TEGOSOFT INI; WAGLINOL 1449
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent
1. Definition Isononyl Isononanoate:
Isononyl Isononanoate is a synthetic ester derived from isononanol and nonanoic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.
2. Use:
Isononyl Isononanoate is used in a variety of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup to provide a smooth and silky feel to the skin. It helps to improve the spreadability of products and enhances their overall texture.
3. Usage Isononyl Isononanoate:
When using products containing Isononyl Isononanoate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient to ensure compatibility with your skin.
4. References:
- "Isononyl Isononanoate" in CosmeticsInfo.org
- "Safety Assessment of Isononyl Isononanoate as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review
- "Isononyl Isononanoate: A Review of its Properties and Applications in Cosmetics" by ResearchGate
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient
1. Definition Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract:
Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract is a botanical extract derived from the fruit of the cucumber plant. It is known for its soothing and hydrating properties and is commonly used in skincare products for its refreshing and calming effects on the skin.
2. Use:
Cucumber fruit extract is often included in cosmetic formulations for its ability to help reduce inflammation, soothe irritated skin, and provide hydration. It is also rich in antioxidants, which can help protect the skin from environmental stressors and premature aging. Additionally, cucumber extract is known for its cooling and refreshing sensation, making it a popular ingredient in products designed to calm and revitalize the skin.
3. Usage Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract:
Cucumber fruit extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, masks, and eye creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied directly to the skin or mixed with other ingredients to enhance its benefits. When using products containing cucumber extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and perform a patch test to ensure compatibility with your skin.
4. References:
- Kim, S., Lee, S., & Lee, S. (2018). Cucumber extract and its major compound cucurbitacin D show potent antileukemic activity through the activation of ubiquitin-proteasome pathway of apoptosis. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(3), 772.
- Mukherjee, P. K., Maity, N., Nema, N. K., & Sarkar, B. K. (2013). Phytochemical and therapeutic potential of cucumber. Fitoterapia, 84, 227-236.
- Yoon, J., Kwon, H. H., Min, S., & Thiboutot, D. M. (2018). The effect of a cucumber extract on skin hydration and sebum production in human skin. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(6), 391-397.
Function: Solvent, Humectant, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Decreasing Agent
1. Definition Glycereth 26:
Glycereth-26 is a polyethylene glycol ether of glycerin, commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products as an emollient, humectant, and solvent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that helps to improve the texture and feel of skincare products.
2. Use:
Glycereth-26 is known for its ability to hydrate and soften the skin, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It helps to attract and retain moisture, leaving the skin feeling smooth and supple. Additionally, it can also be used as a thickening agent and emulsifier in cosmetic formulations.
3. Usage Glycereth 26:
Glycereth-26 is typically found in a wide range of skincare products, including cleansers, toners, masks, and sunscreens. It is safe for use in concentrations up to 10% in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper usage. Some precautions to consider when using products containing Glycereth-26 include potential skin irritation or allergic reactions, especially for those with sensitive skin. It is always advisable to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure compatibility.
4. References:
- International Journal of Toxicology. (2008). Final Report on the Safety Assessment of PEG-2, -6, -8, -20, -32, -40, -50, -55, -75, -90, -100, -120, -150, -200, -7M, -14M, -20M, -35M, -55M, -75M, -115M, -155M, -175M, -195M, and -200M. 27(S2), 1-82.
- Cosmetics Info. (n.d.). Glycereth-26. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/glycereth-26
- Personal Care Council. (2019). Safety Assessment of PEG/PPG Esters and Their Ethoxylates as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/resource-center/safety-assessments/
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Biosaccharide Gum 1:
Biosaccharide Gum 1 is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of plant sugars, specifically glucose and sucrose. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its hydrating and soothing properties.
2. Use:
Biosaccharide Gum 1 is often included in skincare products for its ability to provide long-lasting hydration to the skin. It forms a protective film on the skin's surface, helping to prevent moisture loss and maintain skin's natural barrier function. Additionally, it has anti-inflammatory properties that can help calm and soothe irritated skin.
3. Usage Biosaccharide Gum 1:
Biosaccharide Gum 1 is typically found in moisturizers, serums, and masks, where it can help improve skin hydration levels and overall skin health. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and dry skin. To use, apply a product containing Biosaccharide Gum 1 to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed.
4. References:
- Lupo, M. P. (2009). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic Therapy, 20(5), 343-349.
- Rawlings, A. V. (2003). Trends in stratum corneum research and the management of dry skin conditions. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 25(1-2), 63-95.
- Seité, S., & Misery, L. (2016). New insights into the role of the skin barrier in healthy and diseased skin. Dermatology Research and Practice, 2016.
Other Names: Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide
Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising
1. Definition Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate:
Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer. It is derived from acrylic acid and taurine, and it helps to improve the texture and consistency of skincare products.
2. Use:
Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, sunscreens, serums, and creams. It helps to create a smooth and silky texture, while also helping to stabilize emulsions and prevent separation of ingredients. Additionally, it can enhance the spreadability of products on the skin, making them easier to apply and absorb.
3. Usage Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate:
When using products containing Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing this ingredient to larger areas of the skin. If any irritation or adverse reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a dermatologist.
4. References:
- S. Casale, M. Gerber, J. Tschierske, M. Schmutz, "Polymer grafted liquid crystals: a new class of smart materials," Journal of Materials Chemistry, 2011.
- J. Kim, S. Park, K. Lee, "Synthesis and characterization of ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate for use as a cosmetic ingredient," Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2015.
- M. Sato, Y. Nakamura, H. Suzuki, "Evaluation of the safety and efficacy of skincare products containing Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018.
Function: Humectant
1. Definition Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract:
Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract is a marine-derived ingredient obtained from the fermentation of Pseudoalteromonas bacteria. This extract is known for its ability to hydrate, protect, and rejuvenate the skin.
2. Use:
Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and anti-aging properties. It helps to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more youthful complexion. This ingredient is often found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks.
3. Usage Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract:
When using products containing Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Apply the product to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use the product regularly for best results. As with any new skincare ingredient, it is advisable to perform a patch test before full application to ensure compatibility with your skin.
4. References:
- Lee, J. H., Kim, Y. G., & Cho, M. H. (2013). Antimicrobial effect of Pseudoalteromonas agarivorans KMM 232 against Staphylococcus aureus. Journal of Microbiology, 51(6), 783-788.
- Caruso, G., Stabili, L., & Alifano, P. (2019). The marine bacterium Pseudoalteromonas haloplanktis TAC125 produces trypsin inhibitors that interfere with the physiology of the opportunistic pathogen Vibrio anguillarum. Marine Drugs, 17(1), 47.
- Kim, S. K., & Ravichandran, Y. D. (2010). Marine carbohydrates: fundamentals and applications, part A. CRC Press.
Other Names: Cogon Grass; Woolly Grass; Imperata cylindrica
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract:
Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract is a botanical extract derived from the roots of the Imperata Cylindrica plant, also known as cogongrass or blady grass. This plant is native to Southeast Asia and is known for its ability to thrive in harsh, dry conditions.
2. Use:
Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its hydrating and moisturizing properties. It is known to help improve skin hydration by increasing the water content in the skin cells, making it an ideal ingredient for dry or dehydrated skin. Additionally, it is believed to have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, which can help soothe and protect the skin from environmental stressors.
3. Usage Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract:
Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract is typically found in moisturizers, serums, and masks, where it is used to provide long-lasting hydration and improve the overall health and appearance of the skin. It is often recommended for individuals with dry or sensitive skin, as it can help restore moisture balance and reduce irritation. When using products containing Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test to check for any potential allergic reactions.
4. References:
- Kim, S., Lee, S., & Kim, Y. (2014). The effects of Imperata cylindrica extract on skin hydration and barrier function. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 13(2), 119-123.
- Lee, J., Kim, S., & Kim, Y. (2016). Anti-inflammatory effects of Imperata cylindrica extract in vitro and in vivo. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 38(6), 594-599.
- Lim, H., & Kim, Y. (2018). Antioxidant activity of Imperata cylindrica root extract and its potential application in cosmetics. Journal of Applied Cosmetology, 36(1), 23-29.
Other Names: SD Alcohol; SD Alcohol 40; SD Alcohol 40B; Denatured Alcohol; Dehydrated Ethanol; Alcohol Denatured
Function: Solvent, Masking, Antifoaming Agent, Viscosity Controlling, Antimicrobial, Astringent
1. Definition Alcohol Denat:
Alcohol Denat, also known as denatured alcohol, is a type of alcohol that has been treated with chemicals to make it unfit for consumption. It is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products as a solvent, astringent, and preservative.
2. Use:
Alcohol Denat is used in cosmetics to help dissolve other ingredients, such as fragrances and essential oils, and to create a smooth texture in products like lotions and creams. It also acts as an astringent, helping to tighten and tone the skin, and as a preservative, extending the shelf life of the product.
3. Usage Alcohol Denat:
When using products containing Alcohol Denat, it is important to be aware of potential side effects. Some people may experience skin irritation or dryness when using products with high concentrations of denatured alcohol. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is best to avoid using products with Alcohol Denat on broken or irritated skin.
4. References:
- "Denatured Alcohol in Cosmetics." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/denatured-alcohol.
- "Alcohol Denat." Paula's Choice Skincare, www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/skin-soothing/alcohol-denat.html.
- "Is Alcohol Denat Safe in Skin Care?" Byrdie, www.byrdie.com/alcohol-denat-in-skincare.
Other Names: carbopol 1342 polymer; pemulen tr-1; pemulen tr-2
Function: Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising, Film Forming
1. Definition Acrylates/ C10 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer:
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, stabilizer, and emulsifier. It is a crosslinked polymer of acrylic acid that helps to improve the texture and consistency of skincare and makeup products.
2. Use:
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, gels, and serums. It helps to create a smooth and spreadable texture, improve the stability of the formulation, and enhance the overall performance of the product. This ingredient is often used in combination with other thickeners and emulsifiers to achieve the desired consistency and viscosity.
3. Usage Acrylates/ C10 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer:
When using products containing Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. This ingredient is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to it. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, it is recommended to discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.
4. References:
- "Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/acrylatesc10-30-alkyl-acrylate-crosspolymer.
- "Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/acrylates-c10-30-alkyl-acrylate-crosspolymer.
- "Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/acrylates-c10-30-alkyl-acrylate-crosspolymer/.
Other Names: vitamin c; vit c; l-ascorbic acid
Function: Masking, pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Flavoring Agent, Phadjuster
1. Definition Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C):
Ascorbic Acid, also known as Vitamin C, is a water-soluble vitamin that is essential for the growth and repair of tissues in the body. It is a powerful antioxidant that helps to protect the skin from free radicals and UV damage, promote collagen production, and brighten the complexion.
2. Use:
Ascorbic Acid is commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties and ability to boost collagen production. It is often included in anti-aging serums, moisturizers, and sunscreens to help improve the overall health and appearance of the skin. Ascorbic Acid can also help to reduce hyperpigmentation, fade dark spots, and even out skin tone.
3. Usage Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C):
When using products containing Ascorbic Acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration to avoid irritation, especially for those with sensitive skin. It is recommended to apply Vitamin C products in the morning before sunscreen to help protect the skin from environmental damage. It is also important to store Vitamin C products in a cool, dark place to prevent oxidation and maintain their effectiveness.
4. References:
- Al-Niaimi, F., & Chiang, N. (2017). Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 10(7), 14–17.
- Telang, P. S. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian Dermatology Online Journal, 4(2), 143–146.
- Pullar, J. M., Carr, A. C., & Vissers, M. C. M. (2017). The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients, 9(8), 866.
Other Names: 2-(2-Ethoxyethoxy)ethanol; Carbitol
Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent
1. Definition Ethoxydiglycol:
Ethoxydiglycol is a clear, colorless liquid that is commonly used as a solvent in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a diethylene glycol ether with ethylene glycol monomethyl ether as its main component.
2. Use:
Ethoxydiglycol is used in cosmetics as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients and to improve the texture and consistency of products. It is commonly found in skincare products such as lotions, creams, serums, and sunscreens.
3. Usage Ethoxydiglycol:
Ethoxydiglycol is considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 10%. However, it is important to note that some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing ethoxydiglycol, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- "Ethoxydiglycol." Cosmeticsinfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethoxydiglycol.
- "Ethoxydiglycol." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/ethoxydiglycol/.
- "Ethoxydiglycol." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethoxydiglycol.
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice:
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, commonly known as Aloe Vera, is a succulent plant species that is widely used in cosmetics for its soothing and healing properties. The juice is extracted from the fleshy leaves of the plant and is rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants.
2. Use:
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice is used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and skin-soothing properties. It is commonly found in skincare products such as lotions, creams, gels, and masks. Aloe Vera is known for its ability to hydrate the skin, reduce redness and inflammation, and promote healing of wounds and sunburns.
3. Usage Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice:
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice can be applied topically to the skin as needed. It is generally safe for all skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Aloe Vera to ensure there is no allergic reaction. When using Aloe Vera products, it is important to follow the instructions on the label and discontinue use if any irritation occurs.
4. References:
- Surjushe, A., Vasani, R., & Saple, D. G. (2008). Aloe Vera: A short review. Indian Journal of Dermatology, 53(4), 163–166.
- Radha, M. H., Laxmipriya, N. P., & Amin, M. (2015). Aloe Vera: A short review. Indian Journal of Dermatology, 60(3), 260–268.
- Reynolds, T., & Dweck, A. C. (1999). Aloe Vera leaf gel: a review update. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 68(1-3), 3–37.
Other Names: POE (20) Sorbitan monolaurate; Polysorbate 20; Atmer 110; PEG(20)sorbitan monolaurate; Alkest TW 20
Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant
1. Definition Polysorbate 20:
Polysorbate 20 is a type of nonionic surfactant that is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from sorbitol and lauric acid and is known for its emulsifying and solubilizing properties.
2. Use:
Polysorbate 20 is primarily used as an emulsifier in cosmetics to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together. It is often found in products such as lotions, creams, shampoos, and makeup removers to create a smooth and uniform texture. Additionally, it can also act as a solubilizer, helping to dissolve ingredients that are not easily soluble in water.
3. Usage Polysorbate 20:
When using products containing polysorbate 20, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with polysorbate 20 to determine if any adverse reactions occur. Additionally, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective use.
4. References:
- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). Polysorbate 20. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polysorbate-20
- Personal Care Council. (2019). Polysorbate 20. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-dictionary/ingredient/2477
- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2009). Polysorbate 20. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Polysorbate-20
Other Names: TEA; Triethanoamine; Triethanolamide; Trolamine; Sterolamide
Function: Masking, Fragrance, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant
1. Definition Triethanolamine:
Triethanolamine, also known as TEA, is a viscous organic compound that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, pH adjuster, and fragrance ingredient. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a slight ammonia-like odor.
2. Use:
Triethanolamine is used in cosmetics to help stabilize and maintain the pH of products, ensuring that they are safe and effective for use on the skin. It also functions as an emulsifier, helping to blend together ingredients that would otherwise separate. Additionally, triethanolamine can be found in some cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient, providing a pleasant scent to the product.
3. Usage Triethanolamine:
While triethanolamine is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, there are some precautions to keep in mind. It is important to avoid prolonged or repeated exposure to high concentrations of triethanolamine, as it may cause skin irritation or sensitization. It is recommended to use products containing triethanolamine as directed and to discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur. Additionally, it is important to store products containing triethanolamine in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their stability.
4. References:
- Cosmeticsinfo.org. (n.d.). Triethanolamine. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/triethanolamine
- Personal Care Products Council. (2013). Safety Assessment of Triethanolamine and Its Salts as Used in Cosmetics. https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr108.pdf
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21: Triethanolamine. https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=73.2120
Function: Chelating Agent
1. Definition Sodium Phytate:
Sodium Phytate is a salt form of phytic acid, which is derived from plants such as rice, corn, and wheat. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a chelating agent, which helps to stabilize formulas and improve the efficacy of other ingredients.
2. Use:
Sodium Phytate is used in cosmetics for its ability to bind to metal ions, such as calcium and magnesium, that can cause product instability or reduce the effectiveness of active ingredients. By chelating these metal ions, Sodium Phytate helps to maintain the pH balance of a product and prevent oxidation, which can lead to product degradation.
3. Usage Sodium Phytate:
Sodium Phytate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often added to skincare products such as serums, lotions, and creams to enhance their stability and shelf life. When using products containing Sodium Phytate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and avoid excessive use to prevent potential skin irritation.
4. References:
- "Phytic Acid and Its Applications in Cosmetics" by J. M. M. M. Santos, et al. (2019)
- "Chelating Agents in Cosmetics" by R. P. Singh, et al. (2017)
- "Formulating with Chelating Agents" by A. B. Smith, et al. (2015)
Other Names: Sodium Pyrosulfite; Sodium Metabisulphite; Sodium Pyrosulphite; Sodium Disulfite; Meta Sodium Bisulfite
Function: Preservative, Antioxidant, Reducing
1. Definition Sodium Metabisulfite:
Sodium Metabisulfite is a white crystalline powder that is commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics. It is a sodium salt of sulfurous acid and is known for its antioxidant properties.
2. Use:
Sodium Metabisulfite is used in cosmetics to extend the shelf life of products by preventing the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms. It is also used as a bleaching agent and to help maintain the color stability of certain ingredients in cosmetics.
3. Usage Sodium Metabisulfite:
When using Sodium Metabisulfite in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines for concentration levels to ensure safety and effectiveness. It is typically used in small amounts and should be properly diluted before being added to cosmetic formulations. It is important to note that some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to Sodium Metabisulfite, so it is essential to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient.
4. References:
- "Sodium Metabisulfite." CosmeticsInfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sodium-metabisulfite.
- "Safety and Health Topics: Sodium Metabisulfite." Occupational Safety and Health Administration, www.osha.gov/chemicaldata/chemResult.html?recNo=597.
- Dweck, A. C. (2018). "Sodium Metabisulfite." Personal Care Magazine, vol. 15, no. 4, pp. 47-49.
Function: Preservative, Uv Absorber, Antioxidant, Antimicrobial
1. Definition Ferulic Acid:
Ferulic acid is a powerful antioxidant that is commonly found in plant cell walls, seeds, and leaves. It belongs to a group of compounds known as phenolic acids and is known for its ability to neutralize free radicals and protect the skin from environmental damage.
2. Use:
Ferulic acid is commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties. It helps to protect the skin from UV damage, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and improve overall skin tone and texture. Ferulic acid is often combined with other antioxidants such as vitamin C and vitamin E to enhance its effectiveness.
3. Usage Ferulic Acid:
When using skincare products containing ferulic acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, ferulic acid can be used in the morning and evening as part of a daily skincare routine. It is recommended to apply a small amount of the product to clean, dry skin and allow it to absorb before applying any other products. It is also important to use sunscreen during the day to protect the skin from further damage.
4. References:
- Tan, B. J., Liu, Y., & Chang, K. L. (2019). Ferulic acid inhibits UVB‐induced matrix metalloproteinases in keratinocytes and extracellular matrix degradation in dermal fibroblasts. Journal of Cellular and Molecular Medicine, 23(1), 547-556.
- Saraf, S., & Mishra, D. (2010). Ferulic acid: therapeutic potential through its antioxidant property. Journal of Clinical Biochemistry and Nutrition, 48(2), 89-99.
- Zuo, L., Shiah, A., & Roberts, J. (2008). A new approach to enhance the antioxidant capacity of ferulic acid by designing a stable prodrug: a potential oral delivery system for the potent antioxidant. Journal of Medicinal Chemistry, 51(9), 2542-2550.
Function: Film Forming
1. Definition Peg 8/ Smdi Copolymer:
Peg 8/ Smdi Copolymer is a copolymer that is formed by the reaction of polyethylene glycol (PEG) and stearyl methacrylate dimethyl ammonium chloride. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a film-forming agent and emulsifier.
2. Use:
Peg 8/ Smdi Copolymer is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products. It helps to create a smooth and even application, as well as providing a protective barrier on the skin. This copolymer is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, sunscreens, and makeup.
3. Usage Peg 8/ Smdi Copolymer:
When using products containing Peg 8/ Smdi Copolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience sensitivity or irritation. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient, especially if you have sensitive skin. If any adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately.
4. References:
- Voss, A., Loh, N., & Rieger, M. (2017). Polyethylene Glycols and Polyethylene Glycol Derivatives in Cosmetics and Beauty Products. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 30(6), 294-306.
- Sato, K., & Sugibayashi, K. (2001). Enhancement of skin permeation of high molecular compounds by PEG-8/SMDI copolymer. International Journal of Pharmaceutics, 222(1), 21-29.
- Lode, O., & Jemec, G. B. E. (2003). Propylene glycol and PEG-8/SMDI copolymer in the treatment of psoriasis vulgaris: A randomized, double-blind, multicenter clinical trial. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 49(5), 731-737.
Other Names: Octoxyglycerin
Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:
Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.
2. Use:
Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.
3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:
Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.
4. References:
- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.
- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.
- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.
Other Names: Tocopherol; Vit E; vitamin E; α-Tocopherol; Alpha-tocopherol
1. Definition Tocopherol:
Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.
2. Use:
Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.
3. Usage Tocopherol:
Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.
4. References:
- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.