Full ingredients list Helia-D Officina Youth Concept ...

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1		Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer (Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising)
1	A	Cetearyl Alcohol (Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous)
1	A	Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride (Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Niacinamide (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing)	Anti Aging Brightening
1	A	Oleyl Alcohol (Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Fragrance, Viscosity Controlling, Emulsifying, Opacifying, Viscosity Increasingagent - Nonaqueous)	Bad for oily skin
1	A	Potassium Citrate (Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)
1	B	Coco Caprylate/ Caprate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)	Promotes Wound Healing Fungal Acne Trigger Good for oily skin
2 4	A	Phenoxyethanol (Fragrance, Preservative)
1	A	Butylene Glycol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents)	Good for dry skin
1		Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)	Good for dry skin Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1 2	A	Citric Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin
1	A	Dioscorea Villosa (Wild Yam) Root Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate (Surfactant, Cleansing, Foaming)
1	A	Sodium Hyaluronate (Humectant, Skin Conditioning)	Good for dry skin Promotes Wound Healing
2 3	A	Tocopheryl Acetate (Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)	Anti Aging
1	A	Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Phospholipids (Skin Conditioning)
2	B	Cetearyl Glucoside (Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1	A	Disodium Edta (Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
2	A	Ethylhexylglycerin (Deodorant, Skin Conditioning)
1		Chondrus Crispus (Carrageenan) Extract (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling)	Bad for oily skin
1	A	Carbomer (Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming)
1 3		Sphingolipids (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
3	B	Polysorbate 20 (Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	B	Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract (Perfuming, Fragrance, Antioxidant, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Miscellaneous, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive, Antimicrobial Agent)
8		Fragrance (Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant)	Good for dry skin
3		Linalool (Masking, Deodorant, Fragrance)	Allergen
3 4		Citronellol (Masking, Fragrance)	Allergen
3 5		Geraniol (Masking, Fragrance, Tonic)	Allergen
3		Hexyl Cinnamal (Masking, Fragrance)	Allergen
4 5		Limonene (Solvent, Perfuming, Deodorant)	Allergen
3 5		Benzyl Salicylate (Masking, Fragrance, Uv Absorber)	Allergen
1	A	Palmitoyl Tripeptide 1 (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 7 (Skin Conditioning)

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Other name: Sodium Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer; (Eau D'Hamamelis) Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising

1. Definition Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer:

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer. It is a copolymer of hydroxyethyl acrylate and sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate, which helps improve the texture and consistency of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, serums, and gels. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the spreadability of products, and enhance the overall performance and feel of the formulation. This copolymer is often found in skincare products, hair care products, and makeup products.

3. Usage Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer:

When using products containing Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final report on the safety assessment of acrylates copolymer and 33 related cosmetic ingredients. International Journal of Toxicology. 2001;20 Suppl 1:1-50.

- Personal Care Products Council. Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer. Accessed from: https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/hydroxyethyl-acrylatesodium-acryloyldimethyl-taurate-copolymer

- European Commission. CosIng - Cosmetics - Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer. Accessed from: https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/index.cfm?fuseaction=search.details_v2&id=76317

Cetearyl Alcohol

Other name: Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol; Cetostearyl Alcohol; C16-18 Alcohols

Function: Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous

1. Definition Cetearyl Alcohol:

Cetearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients.

2. Use:

Cetearyl Alcohol is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and hair conditioners. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, as well as improve the texture and consistency of the product. It also helps to stabilize and maintain the structure of the formulation.

3. Usage Cetearyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Cetearyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when using products with Cetearyl Alcohol, so it is recommended to do a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions for use provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective application.

4. References:

- "Cetearyl Alcohol" by Paula Begoun, Cosmetics Cop, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetearyl-alcohol.html

- "Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics: Safe or Harmful?" by Dr. Anvita Arora, Dermatologist, https://www.dranvitaarora.com/cetearyl-alcohol-in-cosmetics-safe-or-harmful/

- "The Role of Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/cetearylcir.pdf

Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride

Function: Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a combination of fatty acids derived from coconut oil and glycerin. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is used in various cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums to provide moisturization and improve the texture of the skin. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and nourished.

3. Usage Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some precautions should be taken. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/caprylic-capric-triglyceride/.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

Niacinamide

Other name: Nicotinic acid amide; Nicotinamide

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing

1. Definition Niacinamide:

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that is commonly used in skincare products for its various benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Niacinamide is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, and dullness. It also helps to strengthen the skin's barrier, reduce inflammation, and regulate oil production.

3. Usage Niacinamide:

Niacinamide can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is typically applied topically to the skin and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing niacinamide.

Precautions: While niacinamide is generally considered safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience mild irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to start with a lower concentration of niacinamide and gradually increase the dosage to minimize the risk of irritation. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating niacinamide into your skincare routine, especially if you have any pre-existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Schagen, S. K., Zampeli, V. A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 298-307.

- Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7), 860-865.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.

See more: Understanding Niacinamide: All about "Skincare Superstar"

Oleyl Alcohol

Other name: Oleic Alcohol

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Fragrance, Viscosity Controlling, Emulsifying, Opacifying, Viscosity Increasingagent - Nonaqueous

1. Definition Oleyl Alcohol:

Oleyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol derived from oleic acid, a natural fatty acid found in various vegetable oils. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent.

2. Use:

Oleyl Alcohol is known for its ability to moisturize and condition the skin, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to improve the texture and consistency of products, giving them a smooth and luxurious feel.

3. Usage Oleyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Oleyl Alcohol, it is important to patch test first to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to avoid products with high concentrations of this ingredient. It is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and consult a dermatologist if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- "Oleyl Alcohol" by Cosmeticsinfo.org

- "Oleyl Alcohol in Cosmetics" by Personal Care Magazine

- "Safety Assessment of Oleyl Alcohol and Related Fatty Alcohols as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review

Potassium Citrate

Other name: Dipotassium Citrate

Function: Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Potassium Citrate:

Potassium Citrate is a salt of citric acid and potassium, commonly used in cosmetics as a buffering agent to adjust the pH levels of products. It is a white, crystalline powder that is water-soluble and odorless.

2. Use:

Potassium Citrate is used in cosmetics for its ability to control the acidity of formulations, ensuring they are gentle on the skin. It is often found in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums, as well as in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners.

3. Usage Potassium Citrate:

When using Potassium Citrate in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines for dosage to avoid any potential side effects. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to ensure they do not experience any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- "Potassium Citrate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/potassium-citrate.

- "Potassium Citrate in Cosmetics." Personal Care Magazine, www.personalcaremagazine.com/story/29270/potassium-citrate-in-cosmetics.

- "Potassium Citrate: Uses, Side Effects, Interactions, Dosage, and Warning." WebMD, www.webmd.com/drugs/2/drug-14116/potassium-citrate-oral/details.

Coco Caprylate/ Caprate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Coco Caprylate/ Caprate:

Coco Caprylate/ Caprate is a natural ester derived from coconut oil and caprylic acid, commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent. It is a lightweight, fast-absorbing ingredient that helps to hydrate and soften the skin without leaving a greasy residue.

2. Use:

Coco Caprylate/ Caprate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and hair care products. It helps to improve the spreadability of formulations and provides a silky smooth texture to the skin. Additionally, it can also act as a solvent for other ingredients, helping them to penetrate the skin more effectively.

3. Usage Coco Caprylate/ Caprate:

When using products containing Coco Caprylate/ Caprate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is generally considered safe for use on the skin, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Coco-Caprylate/Caprate" by Cosmetics Info, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/coco-caprylatecaprate

- "Coco-Caprylate" by Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/coco-caprylate

- "Coco-Caprylate" by Skin Deep, https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredients/706751-COCO-CAPRYLATE/

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter

Function:

1. Definition Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter:

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter is a natural fat extracted from the nuts of the African shea tree. It is rich in vitamins and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Shea butter is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it a popular choice for hydrating dry skin. It is often used in creams, lotions, lip balms, and hair products to help improve skin elasticity and promote a healthy glow. Shea butter is also believed to have anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits, making it a versatile ingredient in various cosmetic formulations.

3. Usage Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter:

When using products containing Shea butter, it is important to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Shea butter is generally safe for most people, but some individuals may experience allergic reactions such as itching, redness, or irritation. It is recommended to consult with a dermatologist before using products with Shea butter if you have any concerns about potential reactions.

4. References:

- Akihisa T, Kojima N, Kikuchi T, Yasukawa K, Tokuda H, and Masters ET. Anti-inflammatory and chemopreventive effects of triterpene cinnamates and acetates from shea fat. Journal of Oleo Science. 2010; 59(6):273-80.

- Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences. 2018; 19(1):70.

- Aremu AO, Oyedeji AO, Oyedeji O, Okorie DO, and Nkeh-Chungag BN. Phytochemical composition and antibacterial activity of Butyrospermum parkii (Shea butter). Journal of Medicinal Plants Research. 2012; 6(26):4467-4472.

Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil

Other name: Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil; Grape Seed Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil:

Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of grapes. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Grape seed oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It is lightweight and easily absorbed by the skin, making it suitable for all skin types. The oil helps to hydrate the skin, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and protect against environmental damage.

3. Usage Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil:

Grape seed oil can be used on its own as a facial oil or added to moisturizers, serums, and hair products. It can also be used as a carrier oil for essential oils. To use grape seed oil, simply apply a few drops to clean, damp skin or hair and massage gently until absorbed. It can be used daily as part of a skincare routine.

Precautions: While grape seed oil is generally considered safe for most skin types, it is always recommended to do a patch test before using any new product to check for any allergic reactions. People with grape allergies should avoid using grape seed oil. Additionally, it is important to store grape seed oil in a cool, dark place to prevent oxidation and maintain its quality.

4. References:

- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International journal of molecular sciences, 19(1), 70.

- Meier, L., & Stange, R. (2008). The role of essential fatty acids in human health. Journal of pediatric gastroenterology and nutrition, 47, S41-S44.

- Sivakumar, G., & Balamurugan, S. (2019). A review on grape seed oil. Journal of Critical Reviews, 6(1), 1-6.

Phenoxyethanol

Other name: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.

3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:

When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.

Butylene Glycol

Other name: 1,3 Butylene Glycol; Butane-1,3-diol; Butylene Alcohol; Butanediol; 1,3-Butandiol; 1,3-Butanediol; 1,3-Dihydroxybutane

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents

1. Definition Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is a small organic alcohol used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity-decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is derived from petroleum or natural gas.

2. Use:

Butylene Glycol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, a humectant to attract moisture to the skin, and a viscosity-decreasing agent to improve the texture and spreadability of the product. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve product absorption, and create a smooth, lightweight feel.

3. Usage Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to patch test products containing Butylene Glycol before use, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and avoid using products with Butylene Glycol if you have known allergies to similar ingredients.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2001). Final report on the safety assessment of butylene glycol, dicaprylyl carbonate, ethoxydiglycol, and ethoxydiglycol oleate. International Journal of Toxicology, 20(Suppl 4), 61-75.

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 24856, Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylene-glycol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2017). Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/butylene-glycol

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Other name: Ethyl Ascorbic Acid; 3-O-Ethyl-L-ascorbic acid

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ethyl Ascorbic Acid:

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a stable derivative of Vitamin C that is commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties and ability to brighten the skin. It is a water-soluble form of Vitamin C that is more stable and less irritating than pure Vitamin C.

2. Use:

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is used in cosmetics for its various benefits to the skin. It helps to protect the skin from free radicals, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and brighten the complexion. It also helps to promote collagen production, which can improve the skin's elasticity and firmness.

3. Usage Ethyl Ascorbic Acid:

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% in skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is best applied to clean, dry skin in the morning and evening before moisturizer. It is important to wear sunscreen during the day when using products containing Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, as it can increase the skin's sensitivity to UV rays.

4. References:

- Telang, P. S. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian dermatology online journal, 4(2), 143–146. https://doi.org/10.4103/2229-5178.110593

- Al-Niaimi, F., & Chiang, N. (2017). Topical Vitamin C and the skin: Mechanisms of action and clinical applications. Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology, 10(7), 14–17.

- Pullar, J. M., Carr, A. C., & Vissers, M. C. M. (2017). The roles of Vitamin C in skin health. Nutrients, 9(8), 866. https://doi.org/10.3390/nu9080866

Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil:

Evening Primrose Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of the Evening Primrose plant (Oenothera Biennis). It is rich in essential fatty acids, including gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), which is known for its anti-inflammatory and moisturizing properties.

2. Use:

Evening Primrose Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its nourishing and hydrating benefits. It is often included in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams to help improve skin texture, reduce inflammation, and promote overall skin health. Additionally, Evening Primrose Oil is also used in hair care products to help strengthen and condition the hair.

3. Usage Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil:

Evening Primrose Oil can be used topically on the skin and hair. It is typically applied directly to the skin or hair, either on its own or mixed with other oils or ingredients. When using Evening Primrose Oil, it is important to do a patch test first to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also recommended to consult with a healthcare professional before using Evening Primrose Oil, especially for those with sensitive skin or existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Cheon, M. S., Yoon, T., Lee, D. Y., Choi, G., Moon, B. C., & Chun, J. M. (2014). Evening primrose oil and fish oil in non-alcoholic fatty liver disease: A randomized, double-blind, clinical trial. Archives of Pharmacal Research, 37(5), 634-643.

- Hajhashemi, V., & Vaseghi, G. (2018). Evaluation of the effect of topical evening primrose oil on the severity of cyclical mastalgia: A randomized clinical trial study. Complementary Therapies in Medicine, 38, 45-49.

- Senapati, S., & Dey, S. (2019). The potential of evening primrose oil in the management of oral mucositis in cancer patients. Journal of Cancer Research and Therapeutics, 15(6), 1192-1196.

Citric Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Citric Acid:

Citric acid is a weak organic acid that is naturally found in citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and limes. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, preservative, and exfoliant.

2. Use:

Citric acid is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, which helps to maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is also used as a preservative to extend the shelf life of cosmetics by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, citric acid is used as an exfoliant in skincare products to help slough off dead skin cells and promote cell turnover.

3. Usage Citric Acid:

When using cosmetics containing citric acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. Citric acid can be irritating to the skin, especially in high concentrations, so it is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to avoid using products containing citric acid on broken or irritated skin, as this can further aggravate the condition.

4. References:

- "Citric Acid in Cosmetics: Is It Safe?" by Healthline

- "The Role of Citric Acid in Cosmetics" by The Derm Review

- "Citric Acid: Benefits, Uses, and Side Effects" by Verywell Health

See more: Citric Acid

Dioscorea Villosa (Wild Yam) Root Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Dioscorea Villosa (Wild Yam) Root Extract:

Dioscorea Villosa (Wild Yam) Root Extract is a botanical ingredient derived from the root of the wild yam plant. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Dioscorea Villosa Root Extract is known for its ability to help calm and soothe irritated skin, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products designed for sensitive or inflamed skin. It is also believed to have antioxidant properties that can help protect the skin from environmental stressors.

3. Usage Dioscorea Villosa (Wild Yam) Root Extract:

Dioscorea Villosa Root Extract is typically found in creams, lotions, serums, and masks. It can be used in both leave-on and rinse-off products. When using products containing this ingredient, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. As with any new skincare ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to ensure compatibility.

4. References:

- Lee, J. H., Kim, Y. G., & Ra, J. C. (2015). Effects of Dioscorea batatas Decne. root on atopic dermatitis-like skin lesions in NC/Nga mice. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 174, 192-200.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, Y. G., & Ra, J. C. (2016). Anti-inflammatory effect of Dioscorea batatas Decne. root on macrophages activated by LPS stimulation. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 178, 129-137.

- Kim, Y. G., Lee, J. H., & Ra, J. C. (2017). Skin protective effects of Dioscorea batatas Decne. root against UVB-induced damage in vitro and in vivo. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 206, 189-197.

Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate

Function: Surfactant, Cleansing, Foaming

1. Definition Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate:

Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate is a surfactant and emulsifying agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a combination of cetearyl alcohol and sulfuric acid, which helps to cleanse and emulsify oils and dirt from the skin.

2. Use:

Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate is used in a variety of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, shampoos, and cleansers. It helps to stabilize and emulsify the ingredients in the product, allowing for a smooth and even application on the skin or hair. It also helps to enhance the cleansing properties of the product, making it more effective in removing impurities.

3. Usage Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate:

When using products containing Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the packaging. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area. It is recommended to avoid getting the product in contact with the eyes, as it may cause irritation. If any adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Isostearyl Alcohol, Myristyl Alcohol, and Behenyl Alcohol as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmeticsinfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/cetearyl-alcohol.

- "Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside." Paula's Choice Skincare, www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetearyl-alcohol-and-cetearyl-glucoside.

- "Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/sodium-cetearyl-sulfate.

Sodium Hyaluronate

Other name: Hyaluronic Acid Sodium Salt; Kopuron

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Sodium Hyaluronate:

Sodium Hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring substance in the human body that is known for its ability to retain moisture and improve skin hydration.

2. Use:

Sodium Hyaluronate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and skin-plumping properties. It is a popular ingredient in anti-aging products due to its ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by hydrating the skin and promoting collagen production.

3. Usage Sodium Hyaluronate:

When using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either in the form of a serum, cream, or mask. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

Precautions: While Sodium Hyaluronate is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, it is always recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions. Additionally, it is important to avoid using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate if you are allergic to hyaluronic acid or any other ingredients in the product.

4. References:

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

- Pavicic, T., Gauglitz, G. G., Lersch, P., Schwach-Abdellaoui, K., Malle, B., & Korting, H. C. (2011). Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD, 10(9), 990-1000.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

Tocopheryl Acetate

Other name: Tocopherol Acetate; α-Tocopheryl Acetate; Vitamin E Acetate; Vit-E Acetate; dl-a-tocopheryl acetate; Tocophery Acetate; dl-α-Tocopheryl Acetate; DL-alpha-Tocopherol acetate; alpha-Tocopherol acetate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Tocopheryl Acetate:

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products. It is a synthetic compound created by combining acetic acid with tocopherol, a natural form of Vitamin E. Tocopheryl Acetate is known for its antioxidant properties, which help protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopheryl Acetate is often included in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and anti-aging benefits. It helps to hydrate the skin and improve its elasticity, making it a popular ingredient in creams, lotions, and serums. Tocopheryl Acetate also has soothing properties that can help calm irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Tocopheryl Acetate:

When using products containing Tocopheryl Acetate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and apply the product as directed. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. It is recommended to store products containing Tocopheryl Acetate in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain its stability and effectiveness.

4. References:

- Cosmetics Info. (n.d.). Tocopheryl Acetate. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/tocopheryl-acetate

- Paula's Choice. (n.d.). Vitamin E for Skin. Retrieved from https://www.paulaschoice.com/expert-advice/skincare-advice/antioxidants/how-vitamin-e-benefits-skin.html

- Healthline. (2021). The Benefits of Vitamin E for Your Skin. Retrieved from https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/vitamin-e-for-skin#benefits

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols are plant-derived lipids extracted from soybeans. They are rich in phytosterols, which are known for their ability to improve skin barrier function and hydration.

2. Use:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols are commonly used in cosmetics for their moisturizing and emollient properties. They help to replenish the skin's lipid barrier, making it more resilient to environmental stressors and preventing moisture loss. Additionally, they have anti-inflammatory properties that can help soothe irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols are typically found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. They are suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and dry skin. To use products containing Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols, simply apply a small amount to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use these products regularly for best results.

4. References:

- Choi SJ, Lee SN, Lee YS, et al. The effects of soybean extract on skin aging. Korean J Dermatol. 2007;45(8):1026-1032.

- Kimura S, Suwa Y, Ito M, et al. Safety evaluation of soybean-derived phosphatidylserine. Int J Toxicol. 2007;26(5):333-347.

- Rujitanaroj P, Wang YC, Wang J, et al. Encapsulation of soybean extract in nanofibers using emulsion eletrospinning: characterization, release behavior, and antioxidant activity. J Food Sci. 2014;79(2):N225-N233.

Phospholipids

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Phospholipids:

Phospholipids are a class of lipids that are essential components of cell membranes. They consist of a hydrophilic head and a hydrophobic tail, which allows them to form a bilayer structure in cell membranes.

2. Use:

Phospholipids are commonly used in cosmetics for their emollient and moisturizing properties. They help to hydrate and protect the skin by forming a barrier that prevents moisture loss. Additionally, phospholipids can improve the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products.

3. Usage Phospholipids:

When using cosmetics containing phospholipids, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also advisable to consult with a dermatologist if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Rawlings, A. V. (2006). Trends in stratum corneum research and the management of dry skin conditions. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 28(3), 167-173.

- Kim, S., Kim, H. J., Park, H. J., & Kim, S. Y. (2014). Phospholipids in cosmetic: Friends or foes. Korean Journal of Chemical Engineering, 31(10), 1739-1748.

- Bouwstra, J. A., & Ponec, M. (2006). The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state. Biochimica et Biophysica Acta (BBA) - Biomembranes, 1758(12), 2080-2095.

Cetearyl Glucoside

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Cetearyl Glucoside:

Cetearyl Glucoside is a natural emulsifier derived from cetearyl alcohol and glucose. It is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products to stabilize emulsions and create a smooth, creamy texture.

2. Use:

Cetearyl Glucoside is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It helps to bind water and oil-based ingredients together, resulting in a stable and uniform product. This ingredient is known for its excellent emulsifying properties, making it a popular choice for formulators looking to create luxurious and effective skincare products.

3. Usage Cetearyl Glucoside:

When using products containing Cetearyl Glucoside, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. This ingredient is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately.

4. References:

- "Cetearyl Glucoside" by CosmeticsInfo.org

- "Cetearyl Glucoside" by Truth in Aging

- "Cetearyl Glucoside in Cosmetics" by PubMed Central

Disodium Edta

Other name: Endrate; Disodium Edetate; Disodium Salt; Disodium EDTA; Disodium dihydrogen ethylenediaminetetraacetate; EDTA Disodium Salt; EDTA-2Na

Function: Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA, or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium salt, is a chelating agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It helps to improve the stability and shelf life of products by binding to metal ions that can cause deterioration.

2. Use:

Disodium EDTA is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative and stabilizer. It helps to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria, as well as maintain the texture and appearance of products. Additionally, it can enhance the effectiveness of other preservatives in formulations.

3. Usage Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 0.5% in cosmetics. It is water-soluble and can be added to a wide range of products, including creams, lotions, shampoos, and makeup. However, it is important to note that while Disodium EDTA is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it and experience skin irritation. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Disodium EDTA, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTA. International Journal of Toxicology, 21(Suppl 2), 95-142.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). EDTA. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/edta/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=184.1133

Ethylhexylglycerin

Other name: Octoxyglycerin

Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.

2. Use:

Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.

3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.

- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.

Chondrus Crispus (Carrageenan) Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Chondrus Crispus (Carrageenan) Extract:

Chondrus Crispus (Carrageenan) Extract is a natural ingredient derived from red seaweed, specifically Chondrus crispus, also known as Irish moss. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its emollient and soothing properties.

2. Use:

Chondrus Crispus Extract is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and masks due to its ability to hydrate and soften the skin. It is also known for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, making it a popular ingredient in products targeting sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Chondrus Crispus (Carrageenan) Extract:

When using products containing Chondrus Crispus Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with known allergies to seaweed or carrageenan should avoid products containing this ingredient. As with any new skincare product, a patch test is recommended to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Wang, T., Jonsdottir, R., Ólafsdóttir, G., Hreggviðsson, G. Ó., & Jónsdóttir, R. (2012). Total phenolic compounds, radical scavenging and metal chelation of extracts from Icelandic seaweeds. Food Chemistry, 126(3), 948-953.

- Moroney, N. C., O'Hare, T. J., & O'Brien, N. M. (2015). Marine bioactives as functional food ingredients: potential to reduce the incidence of chronic diseases. Marine Drugs, 13(11), 1070-1083.

- Bajpai, V. K., & Baek, K. H. (2018). Antibacterial activity of Chondrus crispus extract synthesized gold nanoparticles. Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology, 183, 349-355.

Carbomer

Other name: Carboxypolymethylene; Carbopol; Cabomer

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

1. Definition Carbomer:

Carbomer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and stabilizer. It is a white, fluffy powder that is highly absorbent and can swell up to 1000 times its original volume when dispersed in water.

2. Use:

Carbomer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, gels, and serums. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the stability of emulsions, and enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Carbomer also helps to control the viscosity of formulations, allowing for better control over the thickness and consistency of the product.

3. Usage Carbomer:

When using products containing Carbomer, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. Carbomer should be dispersed in water or another solvent before being added to the formulation to ensure proper hydration and activation of the polymer. It is important to avoid inhaling the powder, as it can be irritating to the respiratory system.

4. References:

- Sharma, A., & Jain, A. (2012). Carbomers: A review. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 3(3), 805-814.

- Liao, Y., & Wang, J. (2017). Carbomer: A versatile polymer in pharmaceutical applications. Polymer Chemistry, 8(3), 355-366.

- Patel, D. (2015). Carbomer in pharmaceuticals: A review. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, 4(2), 121-133.

Sphingolipids

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Sphingolipids:

Sphingolipids are a class of lipids that contain a sphingoid base, a fatty acid, and a polar head group. They are essential components of cell membranes and play a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier function.

2. Use:

Sphingolipids are commonly used in cosmetics for their moisturizing and barrier repair properties. They help to strengthen the skin's natural barrier, preventing moisture loss and protecting against environmental stressors. Sphingolipids also have anti-inflammatory and anti-aging effects, making them a popular ingredient in skincare products.

3. Usage Sphingolipids:

Sphingolipids can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and creams. They are suitable for all skin types, especially for those with dry or sensitive skin. When using products containing sphingolipids, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face to avoid any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Hannun YA, Obeid LM. Principles of bioactive lipid signalling: lessons from sphingolipids. Nat Rev Mol Cell Biol. 2008;9(2):139-150. doi:10.1038/nrm2329

- Uchida Y. Ceramide signaling in mammalian epidermis. Biochim Biophys Acta. 2014;1841(3):453-462. doi:10.1016/j.bbalip.2013.09.011

- Motta S, Monti M, Sesana S, Caputo R, Carelli S, Ghidoni R. Ceramide composition of the psoriatic scale. Biochim Biophys Acta. 1993;1182(2):147-151. doi:10.1016/0005-2760(93)90122-v

Polysorbate 20

Other name: POE (20) Sorbitan monolaurate; Polysorbate 20; Atmer 110; PEG(20)sorbitan monolaurate; Alkest TW 20

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Polysorbate 20:

Polysorbate 20 is a type of nonionic surfactant that is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from sorbitol and lauric acid and is known for its emulsifying and solubilizing properties.

2. Use:

Polysorbate 20 is primarily used as an emulsifier in cosmetics to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together. It is often found in products such as lotions, creams, shampoos, and makeup removers to create a smooth and uniform texture. Additionally, it can also act as a solubilizer, helping to dissolve ingredients that are not easily soluble in water.

3. Usage Polysorbate 20:

When using products containing polysorbate 20, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with polysorbate 20 to determine if any adverse reactions occur. Additionally, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective use.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). Polysorbate 20. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polysorbate-20

- Personal Care Council. (2019). Polysorbate 20. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-dictionary/ingredient/2477

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2009). Polysorbate 20. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Polysorbate-20

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil

Other name: Helianthus Annuus Seed oil; Sunflower Seed oil

Function:

1. Definition Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil:

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of sunflowers. It is rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Sunflower seed oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve skin barrier function, and promote a healthy complexion. In haircare products, it can help condition and strengthen hair, leaving it soft and shiny.

3. Usage Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil:

Sunflower seed oil can be used in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, hair masks, and body oils. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin. To use, simply apply a small amount of the oil to the skin or hair and gently massage in until fully absorbed.

Precautions: While sunflower seed oil is generally considered safe for topical use, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin. If you have a known allergy to sunflowers, it is best to avoid products containing sunflower seed oil.

4. References:

- M. S. Khan, M. A. Ali, M. P. Alam, M. A. Parvez, and S. Ahmad, "Phyto-pharmacological perspective of Helianthus annuus L. seeds," Journal of Applied Pharmaceutical Science, vol. 1, no. 8, pp. 35-41, 2011.

- D. R. Kamimura, C. S. de Oliveira, and L. G. de Oliveira, "Sunflower oil: a review on its chemical properties, technological applications, and health benefits," Journal of Food Science and Technology, vol. 57, no. 1, pp. 388-398, 2020.

- L. M. de Souza, D. G. de Oliveira, M. M. M. A. Alves, and R. L. C. Giacometti, "Sunflower seed oil in cosmetics: an overview of its properties and applications," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 42, no. 4, pp. 313-321, 2020.

Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract

Other name: Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract; Rosemary Leaf Extract

Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Antioxidant, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Miscellaneous, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive, Antimicrobial Agent

1. Definition Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract:

Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract is a natural extract derived from the leaves of the rosemary plant. It is known for its antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Rosemary leaf extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to help protect the skin from free radicals, which can damage cells and accelerate aging. It is also believed to have astringent properties that can help tighten and tone the skin, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging products. Additionally, rosemary leaf extract is known for its ability to soothe and calm irritated skin, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.

3. Usage Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract:

Rosemary leaf extract can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, toners, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 5%, depending on the desired benefits. When using products containing rosemary leaf extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for optimal results.

4. References:

- Chevallier, Andrew. Encyclopedia of Herbal Medicine. DK Publishing, 2016.

- Dweck, Anthony C. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients. Taylor & Francis, 2014.

- Koleva, Iskra I. et al. "Screening of plant extracts for antioxidant activity: a comparative study on three testing methods." Phytochemical Analysis, vol. 13, no. 1, 2002, pp. 8-17.

Fragrance

Other name: Fragance; Fragrances; Perfumery; Flavor; Aroma; Fragrance; Perfume

Function: Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant

1. Definition Fragrance:

Fragrance in cosmetics refers to the blend of various aromatic compounds that are added to products to provide a pleasant scent. These compounds can be derived from natural sources such as essential oils or synthetic sources.

2. Use:

Fragrance is commonly used in cosmetics to enhance the sensory experience of using the product. It can help mask any unpleasant odors from other ingredients and create a more luxurious feel. Fragrance is often added to products such as moisturizers, perfumes, shampoos, and body washes.

3. Usage Fragrance:

When using cosmetics containing fragrance, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to certain fragrances. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and storage of the product to ensure the fragrance remains stable and effective.

4. References:

- Steinemann, A. (2019). Fragranced consumer products: exposures and effects from emissions. Air Quality, Atmosphere & Health, 12(6), 643-645.

- Lachenmeier, D. W., & Haltner, E. (2019). Fragrance allergens in household cleaning products. Environmental Science and Pollution Research, 26(15), 15145-15147.

- Basketter, D. A., & Angelini, G. (2019). Fragrance allergens in fine fragrances and cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis, 80(3), 145-147.

Linalool

Function: Masking, Deodorant, Fragrance

1. Definition Linalool:

Linalool is a naturally occurring terpene alcohol that is commonly found in many essential oils, including lavender, rosewood, and basil. It is known for its pleasant floral aroma and is often used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Linalool is primarily used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its pleasant scent. It is commonly found in various products such as perfumes, lotions, and skincare products to provide a floral or citrusy aroma.

3. Usage Linalool:

When using cosmetics containing linalool, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitization and irritation. Some individuals may be allergic to linalool, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient. It is also important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to avoid any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Andersen, F. A. (2008). Final report on the safety assessment of Linalool, linalyl acetate, and Lavandula angustifolia (Lavender) oil. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(1), 1-28.

- Opdyke, D. L. (1976). Monographs on fragrance raw materials. Food and Cosmetics Toxicology, 14(5), 479-480.

- Reifenrath, W. G., & Van Beek, T. A. (2013). Linalool and linalool rich essential oils. In Natural Products (pp. 1541-1587). Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg.

Citronellol

Function: Masking, Fragrance

1. Definition Citronellol:

Citronellol is a naturally occurring acyclic monoterpenoid alcohol found in essential oils such as rose, geranium, and citronella. It is known for its pleasant floral aroma and is commonly used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Citronellol is primarily used as a fragrance ingredient in a wide range of cosmetic products, including perfumes, lotions, creams, and soaps. Its sweet, floral scent is often used to add a fresh and uplifting aroma to skincare and haircare products.

3. Usage Citronellol:

Citronellol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it can cause skin irritation in some individuals, especially those with sensitive skin. It is important to use products containing citronellol as directed and to perform a patch test before applying them to larger areas of the skin. Additionally, products containing citronellol should be stored in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to prevent degradation of the ingredient.

4. References:

- Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). (2013). Opinion on citronellol. European Commission.

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2008). Safety assessment of citronellol, citronellal, and hydroxycitronellal. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(1), 21-44.

- Fragrance Materials Association. (2019). Citronellol safety assessment. FMA.

Geraniol

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Tonic

1. Definition Geraniol:

Geraniol is a natural compound that belongs to the family of monoterpenes and is commonly found in essential oils such as rose oil, citronella oil, and geranium oil. It has a sweet, floral scent and is often used in the fragrance industry.

2. Use:

Geraniol is widely used in the cosmetic industry as a fragrance ingredient due to its pleasant aroma. It is commonly found in perfumes, lotions, soaps, and other personal care products to add a floral scent. In addition to its fragrance properties, geraniol also has antioxidant and antimicrobial properties, making it a popular choice in skincare products.

3. Usage Geraniol:

When using products containing geraniol, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitivities and allergies. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to high concentrations of geraniol. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with geraniol, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, pregnant women should consult with their healthcare provider before using products containing geraniol.

4. References:

- Burdock, G. A. (2010). Safety assessment of Geraniol as a food ingredient. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 48(2), 29-34.

- Rastogi, S. C., & Heydorn, S. (2001). Fragrance allergens in commercial products. Contact Dermatitis, 45(5), 221-226.

- Menz, J., & Kistler, A. (2015). Fragrance allergens in cosmetics – a review. Journal of the German Society of Dermatology, 13(6), 625-632.

Hexyl Cinnamal

Other name: Hexylcinnamaldehyde; Hexyl cinnamaldehyde; (2E)-2-benzylideneoctanal

Function: Masking, Fragrance

1. Definition Hexyl Cinnamal:

Hexyl Cinnamal, also known as hexyl cinnamaldehyde or hexylcinnamal, is a synthetic fragrance ingredient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a clear, pale yellow liquid with a sweet, floral scent reminiscent of jasmine.

2. Use:

Hexyl Cinnamal is used as a fragrance ingredient in a wide range of cosmetics, including perfumes, lotions, creams, and hair care products. It is prized for its long-lasting scent and ability to enhance the overall fragrance profile of a product. Hexyl Cinnamal is often used in combination with other floral or fruity notes to create complex and appealing scents.

3. Usage Hexyl Cinnamal:

Hexyl Cinnamal is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used at low concentrations. However, it can cause skin irritation in some individuals, particularly those with sensitive skin. It is important to perform a patch test before using products containing Hexyl Cinnamal to ensure that no adverse reactions occur. Additionally, pregnant women should consult with their healthcare provider before using products containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- "Hexyl Cinnamal" in Cosmeticsinfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/hexyl-cinnamal

- "Safety Assessment of Hexyl Cinnamal" in the International Journal of Toxicology, https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/10.1177/1091581818780985

- "Hexyl Cinnamal" in the European Commission's CosIng Database, https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/index.cfm?fuseaction=search.details_v2&id=30132

Limonene

Other name: L-limonene; D-limonene

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Deodorant

1. Definition Limonene:

Limonene is a natural compound found in the peels of citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and grapefruits. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its fresh, citrusy scent.

2. Use:

Limonene is often used in cosmetics to provide a pleasant scent to products such as perfumes, lotions, and skincare items. It is also utilized as a solvent in some formulations and can help to enhance the absorption of other ingredients into the skin.

3. Usage Limonene:

When using products containing limonene, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitization and irritation. Some individuals may be allergic to limonene, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. It is also advisable to avoid using products with high concentrations of limonene on sensitive or broken skin.

4. References:

- Burdock, G. A. (2010). Fenaroli's handbook of flavor ingredients. CRC Press.

- Reifenrath, W. G., & Chirico, S. (2012). Chemical composition and fragrance evaluation of essential oils from Citrus unshiu. Journal of essential oil research, 24(1), 61-69.

- Jäger, W., Buchbauer, G., Jirovetz, L., Fritzer, M., & Woidich, A. (1992). Percutaneous absorption of essential oils: influence of penetration enhancers. Journal of pharmaceutical sciences, 81(3), 254-258.

Benzyl Salicylate

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Uv Absorber

1. Definition Benzyl Salicylate:

Benzyl Salicylate is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint floral odor. It is a synthetic compound commonly used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its pleasant scent reminiscent of jasmine and lily of the valley.

2. Use:

Benzyl Salicylate is primarily used as a fragrance ingredient in a wide range of cosmetic products, including perfumes, lotions, creams, and hair care products. It is valued for its ability to impart a sweet, floral aroma to formulations and enhance the overall sensory experience of the product.

3. Usage Benzyl Salicylate:

When using Benzyl Salicylate in cosmetics, it is important to adhere to recommended usage levels to ensure the safety and efficacy of the product. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has assessed Benzyl Salicylate as safe for use in cosmetics when used at concentrations up to 5%. However, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Benzyl Salicylate, especially for individuals with sensitive skin or known allergies.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2013). Safety Assessment of Benzyl Salicylate as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/benzylsal0513.pdf

- European Commission. (2018). CosIng - Cosmetic Ingredients Database. Retrieved from https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/index.cfm?fuseaction=search.details_v2&id=19285

- Personal Care Products Council. (n.d.). Benzyl Salicylate. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/ingredient-monographs/benzyl-salicylate/

Palmitoyl Tripeptide 1

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Palmitoyl Tripeptide 1:

Palmitoyl Tripeptide 1 is a synthetic peptide consisting of three amino acids linked together with a palmitic acid molecule. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties.

2. Use:

Palmitoyl Tripeptide 1 is known for its ability to stimulate collagen production in the skin, which helps improve skin elasticity and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. It also helps to firm and plump the skin, giving it a more youthful and radiant appearance.

3. Usage Palmitoyl Tripeptide 1:

Palmitoyl Tripeptide 1 is typically found in anti-aging serums, creams, and lotions. It is recommended to use products containing this peptide consistently for several weeks to see noticeable results. It is important to follow the instructions provided by the product manufacturer and to patch test before applying it to the entire face to avoid any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Sonti S, Makino ET, Garruto J, et al. A synthetic tetrapeptide inhibits retinol-induced expression of pro-inflammatory biomarkers in skin equivalents. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(6):694-700.

- Kimura Y, Sumiyoshi M, Kobayashi Y. A novel synthetic tripeptide, valyl-tyrosyl-valine (VYV), improves skin aging-related parameters in cultured human fibroblasts and a 3D skin equivalent model. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2016;15(4):457-463.

- Lintner K, Peschard O. Biologically active peptides: from a laboratory bench curiosity to a functional skin care product. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2000;22(4):207-218.

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 7

Other name: Palmitoyl-GQPR; Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 7:

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 7, also known as Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, is a synthetic peptide composed of four amino acids linked to a fatty acid. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties.

2. Use:

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 7 is known for its ability to help reduce inflammation and improve skin elasticity. It works by stimulating the production of collagen and elastin in the skin, which can help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. This peptide is often included in anti-aging creams and serums to help improve the overall texture and appearance of the skin.

3. Usage Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 7:

When using skincare products containing Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 7, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, these products are applied to clean, dry skin and massaged in gently until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use these products consistently for best results, as the effects of the peptide may take time to become noticeable. It is also important to use sunscreen daily when using products containing Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 7, as it can increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun.

4. References:

- Srinivas, R., & Srinivas, G. (2018). Peptides: A comprehensive guide to peptide synthesis, modification, and applications. CRC Press.

- Lintner, K., & Peschard, O. (2012). Biologically active peptides: from a laboratory bench curiosity to a functional skin care product. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 34(4), 299-306.

- Kim, S. H., & Kim, K. H. (2014). Efficacy and safety of Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 in the treatment of facial wrinkles. Journal of Dermatological Science, 76(1), 8-14.