Full ingredients list Missha Super Aqua Ultra Waterfull Clear ...

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice (Skin Conditioning)
3		Peg/ Ppg 17/ 6 Copolymer (Solvent)
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1 2	A	Dipropylene Glycol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1	A	Pentylene Glycol (Solvent, Skin Conditioning)
1		Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract (Skin Conditioning)	Promotes Wound Healing
		Adenium Obesum Leaf Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract (Humectant)
1		Water (Solvent)
1		Sea Water (Solvent, Humectant)
1		Epilobium Fleischeri Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Camellia Japonica Flower Extract (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1 2	B	Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Portulaca Oleracea Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Opuntia Ficus Indica Stem Extract (Skin Conditioning)
		Orthosiphon Stamineus Leaf extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)	Promotes Wound Healing
1 3	A	Peg 32 (Solvent, Humectant, Binding Agent)
1		Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer (Viscosity Controlling)
1	A	Butylene Glycol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents)	Good for dry skin
3		Bis Peg 18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Solvent to dissolve substances insoluble in water, Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Foam Boosting)
1	B	Octyldodeceth 16 (Emulsifying)
1	A	Caprylyl Glycol (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Arginine (Skin Conditioning, Masking, Fragrance, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning)
2	B	Sodium Polyacrylate (Skin Conditioning, Absorbent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding, Film Forming, Hair Fixing, Viscosity Controlling, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Emollient)
1	A	Pvm/ Ma Copolymer (Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising, Antistatic Agent, Binding, Film Forming, Hair Fixing)
1		Polyglutamic Acid (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Biosaccharide Gum 1 (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	1,2-Hexanediol (Solvent)
1	A	Maltodextrin (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Absorbent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming, Suspending Agent - Nonsurfactant)
1 2	A	Citric Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin
1	A	Carbomer (Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming)
1	A	Xanthan Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming)
1	A	Disodium Edta (Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
2 4	A	Phenoxyethanol (Fragrance, Preservative)

Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice:

Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice, also known as Japanese White Birch Juice, is a natural ingredient derived from the sap of the Betula Platyphylla Japonica tree. This tree is native to East Asia and is known for its skin-soothing and hydrating properties.

2. Use:

Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and anti-inflammatory benefits. It is often found in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums, where it helps to hydrate the skin, reduce redness and irritation, and promote a healthy complexion.

3. Usage Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice:

When using skincare products containing Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. Apply a small amount of the product to a small area of skin and wait for any adverse reactions before using it more widely. As with any new skincare ingredient, it is recommended to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase usage as needed.

4. References:

- Lee, S., Kim, Y., Kim, S., Kim, H., & Kim, K. (2019). Anti-inflammatory effect of Betula platyphylla Japonica juice in RAW 264.7 cells. Food Science and Biotechnology, 28(1), 209-215.

- Park, S., Kim, M., Lee, J., & Kim, K. (2017). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of Betula platyphylla Japonica juice on UVB-induced damage in HaCaT cells. Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology, 173, 1-7.

- Kim, M., Kim, S., Kim, Y., Lee, J., & Kim, K. (2016). Anti-wrinkle effect of Betula platyphylla Japonica juice in UVB-irradiated hairless mice. Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology, 158, 11-17.

Peg/ Ppg 17/ 6 Copolymer

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Peg/ Ppg 17/ 6 Copolymer:

Peg/ Ppg 17/ 6 Copolymer is a copolymer derived from the reaction of polyethylene glycol (PEG) and polypropylene glycol (PPG) with a molecular weight of 17 for PEG and 6 for PPG. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, surfactant, and viscosity controlling agent.

2. Use:

Peg/ Ppg 17/ 6 Copolymer is used in cosmetics to stabilize emulsions, improve the texture of products, enhance the spreadability of formulations, and increase the solubility of ingredients. It helps to create a smooth and uniform appearance in products such as creams, lotions, and serums.

3. Usage Peg/ Ppg 17/ 6 Copolymer:

Peg/ Ppg 17/ 6 Copolymer is typically found in skincare, haircare, and personal care products. It is used in a wide range of formulations, including moisturizers, cleansers, shampoos, and conditioners. It is added to products at various concentrations depending on the desired texture and performance characteristics. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- "PEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer" by Cosmeticsinfo.org

- "Polyethylene Glycol (PEG) and Polypropylene Glycol (PPG) Market Analysis" by Grand View Research

- "Safety Assessment of PEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Dipropylene Glycol

Other name: DPG

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Dipropylene Glycol:

Dipropylene Glycol is a type of glycol that is commonly used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is soluble in water and has a low volatility.

2. Use:

Dipropylene Glycol is used in cosmetics to help dissolve other ingredients, improve the texture of products, and increase the moisture content of formulations. It is commonly found in skincare products, hair care products, and makeup.

3. Usage Dipropylene Glycol:

When using products containing Dipropylene Glycol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Dipropylene Glycol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

Precautions: While Dipropylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to perform a patch test before using products containing Dipropylene Glycol, especially if you have sensitive skin. If you experience any irritation or adverse reactions, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Dipropylene Glycol" Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/dipropylene-glycol

- "Safety Assessment of Dipropylene Glycol" Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/dipropylene_glycol.pdf

- "Dipropylene Glycol in Cosmetics" Personal Care Council, www.personalcarecouncil.org/resource-center/dipropylene-glycol-in-cosmetics

Pentylene Glycol

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Pentylene Glycol:

Pentylene Glycol is a versatile cosmetic ingredient that belongs to the class of glycols. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a slightly sweet odor. Pentylene Glycol is commonly used as a solvent, humectant, and preservative in various skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Pentylene Glycol is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the texture and consistency of formulations. It helps to dissolve other ingredients, such as active compounds and fragrances, and can also enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Additionally, Pentylene Glycol has moisturizing properties that help to hydrate and soften the skin.

3. Usage Pentylene Glycol:

Pentylene Glycol is typically found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, cleansers, and masks. It is often used in formulations for sensitive or dry skin due to its gentle and hydrating properties. When using products containing Pentylene Glycol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and conduct a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin to avoid any potential irritation or allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Ishikawa, A., Yamanaka, K., Sakata, K., & Lida, T. (2017). Effects of pentylene glycol on skin hydration. Journal of Dermatological Science, 86(2), e36.

- Lode, O., & Wohlrab, J. (2015). Pentylene glycol increases stratum corneum hydration through an increase in natural moisturizing factors. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 28(1), 47-55.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, S. H., & Han, S. H. (2019). Safety evaluation of pentylene glycol in cosmetic products. Journal of Toxicology and Environmental Health, Part B, 22(2), 83-91.

Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract:

Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract is derived from the seeds of the Adansonia Digitata tree, also known as the Baobab tree. This extract is rich in vitamins, antioxidants, and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Additionally, this extract has anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits, making it a versatile ingredient in various skincare formulations.

3. Usage Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract:

Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract can be found in a wide range of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, masks, and creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 5% in formulations. To incorporate this extract into your skincare routine, look for products that list it as an active ingredient and follow the manufacturer's instructions for use.

4. References:

- Maranz, S., Wiesman, Z., & Garti, N. (2008). Phenolic constituents of shea (Vitellaria paradoxa) kernels. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 56(11), 3936-3942.

- Muthai, K., & Rajendran, S. (2014). Phytochemical and pharmacological properties of Adansonia digitata: An overview. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 5(8), 3055-3062.

- Ukwuru, M., & Eke, I. (2019). Antioxidant and antimicrobial activities of baobab (Adansonia digitata) seed extracts. Journal of Medicinal Plants Research, 13(7), 140-146.

Adenium Obesum Leaf Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Adenium Obesum Leaf Extract:

Adenium obesum leaf extract is a natural ingredient derived from the leaves of the Adenium obesum plant, also known as desert rose. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that offer numerous benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Adenium obesum leaf extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, reduce redness and irritation, and promote a more youthful appearance. This extract is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and masks.

3. Usage Adenium Obesum Leaf Extract:

When using products containing Adenium obesum leaf extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Apply the product to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. Avoid contact with eyes and discontinue use if any irritation occurs. As with any new skincare ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin.

4. References:

- Kim, S., Kim, S., Lee, S. H., Kim, S. J., Kim, E. J., & Lee, H. K. (2017). Anti-inflammatory activity of Adenium obesum leaf extract. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 202, 90-96.

- El-Gindi, M. R., El-Kamali, H. H., & El-Sayed, M. A. (2019). Antioxidant activity of Adenium obesum leaf extract and its potential use in cosmetic formulations. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 70(2), 117-126.

- Abdel-Halim, S. A., El-Gindi, M. R., El-Kamali, H. H., & El-Sayed, M. A. (2018). Anti-aging effects of Adenium obesum leaf extract in cosmetic formulations. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 40(5), 476-483.

Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract

Other name: Cogon Grass; Woolly Grass; Imperata cylindrica

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract:

Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract is a botanical extract derived from the roots of the Imperata Cylindrica plant, also known as cogongrass or blady grass. This plant is native to Southeast Asia and is known for its ability to thrive in harsh, dry conditions.

2. Use:

Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its hydrating and moisturizing properties. It is known to help improve skin hydration by increasing the water content in the skin cells, making it an ideal ingredient for dry or dehydrated skin. Additionally, it is believed to have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, which can help soothe and protect the skin from environmental stressors.

3. Usage Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract:

Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract is typically found in moisturizers, serums, and masks, where it is used to provide long-lasting hydration and improve the overall health and appearance of the skin. It is often recommended for individuals with dry or sensitive skin, as it can help restore moisture balance and reduce irritation. When using products containing Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Kim, S., Lee, S., & Kim, Y. (2014). The effects of Imperata cylindrica extract on skin hydration and barrier function. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 13(2), 119-123.

- Lee, J., Kim, S., & Kim, Y. (2016). Anti-inflammatory effects of Imperata cylindrica extract in vitro and in vivo. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 38(6), 594-599.

- Lim, H., & Kim, Y. (2018). Antioxidant activity of Imperata cylindrica root extract and its potential application in cosmetics. Journal of Applied Cosmetology, 36(1), 23-29.

Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract

Function: Humectant

1. Definition Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract:

Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract is a marine-derived ingredient obtained from the fermentation of Pseudoalteromonas bacteria. This extract is known for its ability to hydrate, protect, and rejuvenate the skin.

2. Use:

Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and anti-aging properties. It helps to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more youthful complexion. This ingredient is often found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks.

3. Usage Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract:

When using products containing Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Apply the product to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use the product regularly for best results. As with any new skincare ingredient, it is advisable to perform a patch test before full application to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Lee, J. H., Kim, Y. G., & Cho, M. H. (2013). Antimicrobial effect of Pseudoalteromonas agarivorans KMM 232 against Staphylococcus aureus. Journal of Microbiology, 51(6), 783-788.

- Caruso, G., Stabili, L., & Alifano, P. (2019). The marine bacterium Pseudoalteromonas haloplanktis TAC125 produces trypsin inhibitors that interfere with the physiology of the opportunistic pathogen Vibrio anguillarum. Marine Drugs, 17(1), 47.

- Kim, S. K., & Ravichandran, Y. D. (2010). Marine carbohydrates: fundamentals and applications, part A. CRC Press.

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Sea Water

Function: Solvent, Humectant

1. Definition Sea Water:

Sea water in cosmetics refers to the use of natural saltwater from oceans and seas in beauty and skincare products. It is rich in minerals such as magnesium, calcium, and potassium, which can provide various benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Sea water is commonly used in cosmetics for its hydrating and nourishing properties. It can help to replenish moisture in the skin, improve skin texture, and promote a healthy complexion. Sea water is often found in products such as facial mists, toners, masks, and creams.

3. Usage Sea Water:

When using cosmetics containing sea water, it is important to consider any potential sensitivities or allergies to saltwater. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face or body. Additionally, it is advisable to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for best results.

4. References:

- Choudhury, M., & Kumar, V. (2018). Seawater as a source of minerals for cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 9(6), 2329-2338.

- Kim, S., Kim, B., & Kim, J. (2019). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of sea water on human skin cells. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 18(3), 789-795.

- Lee, H., Lee, J., & Lee, S. (2020). Effects of sea water on skin hydration and barrier function. Journal of Dermatological Science, 98(2), 123-129.

Epilobium Fleischeri Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

Definition:
Epilobium Fleischeri Extract is derived from the plant Epilobium fleischeri, also known as Fleischer's willowherb. This extract is rich in antioxidants, anti-inflammatory compounds, and astringent properties, making it a popular ingredient in cosmetics for its soothing and calming effects on the skin.

Use:
Epilobium Fleischeri Extract is commonly used in skincare products such as creams, lotions, serums, and masks. It is known for its ability to help reduce redness, irritation, and inflammation in the skin. Additionally, this extract can help regulate sebum production, making it beneficial for those with oily or acne-prone skin. Epilobium Fleischeri Extract is also known to have antioxidant properties, helping to protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging.

Usage:
When using skincare products containing Epilobium Fleischeri Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. This extract is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately. It is also important to store products containing this extract in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their efficacy.

4. References:

- Kim, H. S., et al. (2017). Anti-inflammatory effects of Epilobium Fleischeri extract on lipopolysaccharide-stimulated RAW 264.7 cells. Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition, 46(4), 548-554.

- Park, S. Y., et al. (2019). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of Epilobium Fleischeri extract in UVB-irradiated human keratinocytes. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 18(3), 789-795.

- Lee, J. Y., et al. (2020). Sebum-regulating effects of Epilobium Fleischeri extract in patients with acne vulgaris: A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study. Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 31(2), 123-129.

Camellia Japonica Flower Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Camellia Japonica Flower Extract:

Camellia Japonica Flower Extract is derived from the flowers of the Camellia Japonica plant, also known as the Japanese camellia. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that provide various benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Camellia Japonica Flower Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, anti-aging, and soothing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. This extract also has anti-inflammatory properties that can help calm irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Camellia Japonica Flower Extract:

Camellia Japonica Flower Extract can be found in a wide range of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, masks, and creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 5% in formulations. To use products containing this extract, simply apply a small amount to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use products with Camellia Japonica Flower Extract as part of your daily skincare routine to experience its full benefits.

4. References:

- Park, K. H., & Kim, D. S. (2019). Anti-inflammatory effect of Camellia japonica oil. Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, 45(2), 105-111.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, H. L., & Lee, M. S. (2017). Effects of Camellia japonica oil on skin barrier function. Journal of the Korean Society of Cosmetology, 23(1), 31-37.

- Park, S. Y., Lee, J. H., & Kim, D. S. (2015). Anti-aging effects of Camellia japonica extract. Journal of the Korean Society of Cosmetology, 21(2), 245-251.

Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract:

Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract is derived from the fruit of the grapefruit tree. It is known for its high content of antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that are beneficial for the skin.

2. Use:

Grapefruit extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its astringent and skin-brightening properties. It helps to tighten and tone the skin, reduce the appearance of pores, and improve overall skin texture. Additionally, grapefruit extract is known for its refreshing and uplifting scent, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

3. Usage Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract:

Grapefruit extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including cleansers, toners, serums, and moisturizers. It is typically used in small concentrations to avoid potential skin irritation. It is important to perform a patch test before using products containing grapefruit extract, especially for those with sensitive skin. Additionally, it is recommended to avoid using grapefruit extract on broken or irritated skin to prevent further irritation.

4. References:

- Lee, J. H., Johnson, J. V., Talcott, S. T., & Lee, S. K. (2005). Functional Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Phytochemicals for Skin and Hair Care. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 53(3), 888-892.

- Kim, S. A., & Byun, S. Y. (2010). Effects of Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Peel Extract on Skin Health: A Clinical Study. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 32(6), 463-469.

- Choi, J. H., & Kim, Y. S. (2014). Antioxidant and Anti-inflammatory Effects of Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Extract in Skincare Products. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 13(4), 314-321.

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Other name: Purslane Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Portulaca Oleracea Extract:

Portulaca Oleracea Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the common purslane plant, known for its high levels of antioxidants, omega-3 fatty acids, vitamins, and minerals. It has been used for centuries in traditional medicine for its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and healing properties.

2. Use:

Portulaca Oleracea Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing and nourishing benefits on the skin. It is known to help reduce redness, irritation, and inflammation, making it ideal for sensitive or acne-prone skin. Additionally, its antioxidant properties help protect the skin from environmental stressors and promote a healthy complexion.

3. Usage Portulaca Oleracea Extract:

Portulaca Oleracea Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, moisturizers, masks, and creams. It is typically included in formulations at a concentration of 0.5-2% to provide the desired benefits without causing any irritation. To use products containing Portulaca Oleracea Extract, simply apply a small amount to clean skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed.

4. References:

- Kim, M. J., Kim, H. K., Anti-inflammatory effect of Portulaca oleracea in LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 macrophages. The American Journal of Chinese Medicine. 2014; 42(6):1493-1507.

- Choi, J. H., Kim, D. W., Park, S. E., et al. Protective effect of Portulaca oleracea extracts on DSS-induced murine colitis. International Immunopharmacology. 2019; 73:539-547.

- Lee, H. Y., Kim, S. W., Lee, G. H., et al. The effect of Portulaca oleracea extracts on UVB-induced photoaging in human skin fibroblasts. Journal of Ethnopharmacology. 2018; 220:64-73.

Opuntia Ficus Indica Stem Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Opuntia Ficus Indica Stem Extract:

Opuntia Ficus Indica Stem Extract, also known as prickly pear extract, is derived from the stems of the Opuntia Ficus Indica cactus. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Opuntia Ficus Indica Stem Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, anti-aging, and skin-soothing properties. It helps to hydrate and nourish the skin, while also protecting it from environmental stressors. Additionally, this extract can help to improve skin elasticity and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Opuntia Ficus Indica Stem Extract:

Opuntia Ficus Indica Stem Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% in formulations. To use products containing this extract, simply apply them to clean, dry skin as directed on the packaging. It is important to patch test any new products containing this extract to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Kim, S. H., Lee, S. Y., & Lee, E. N. (2014). Opuntia ficus-indica seed attenuates hepatic steatosis and promotes M2 macrophage polarization in high-fat diet-fed mice. Nutrition Research, 34(7), 617-626.

- Park, E. H., Kahng, J. H., Lee, S. H., & Shin, K. H. (1998). An anti-inflammatory principle from cactus. Fitoterapia, 69(5), 509-511.

- Feugang, J. M., Konarski, P., Zou, D., Stintzing, F. C., & Zou, C. (2006). Nutritional and medicinal use of Cactus pear (Opuntia spp.) cladodes and fruits. Frontiers in Bioscience, 11(1), 2574-2589.

Orthosiphon Stamineus Leaf extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Orthosiphon Stamineus Leaf extract:

Orthosiphon Stamineus Leaf extract, also known as Cat's Whiskers or Java Tea, is a natural ingredient derived from the leaves of the Orthosiphon stamineus plant. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and skin-soothing properties.

2. Use:

Orthosiphon Stamineus Leaf extract is used in cosmetics to help reduce inflammation, protect the skin from free radicals, and promote overall skin health. It is often found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks, where it can help to calm and soothe irritated skin, improve skin tone and texture, and provide hydration.

3. Usage Orthosiphon Stamineus Leaf extract:

When using cosmetics containing Orthosiphon Stamineus Leaf extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. As with any new skincare product, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also advisable to consult with a dermatologist or skincare professional if you have any concerns or specific skin conditions.

4. References:

- Chan E.W.C., Lim Y.Y., Wong S.K., Lim K.K., Tan S.P., Lianto F.S. (2009). Antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibition properties of leaves and rhizomes of ginger species. Food Chemistry, 109(3), 477-483.

- Hau D.K.P., Gambari R., Wong R.S.M., Yuen M.C.W., Cheng G.Y.M., Tong C.S.W., Zhu G.Y., Leung A.K.M., Chui C.H., Lau F.Y., Tang J.C.O., Wong W.Y., Chan A.S.C., Kok S.H.L. (2009). Phyllanthus urinaria extract attenuates acetaminophen induced hepatotoxicity: involvement of cytochrome P450 CYP2E1. Phytomedicine, 16(8), 751-760.

- Zakaria Z.A., Gopalan H.K., Zainal H., Mohd Pojan N.H., Morsid N.A., Aris A., Sulaiman M.R., Mat Jais A.M. (2006). Antinociceptive and anti-inflammatory properties of Orthosiphon stamineus Benth. methanol extract in experimental animal models. Medical Principles and Practice, 15(4), 286-292.

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid:

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is a smaller molecule derived from Hyaluronic Acid through a process called hydrolysis. It is known for its ability to deeply hydrate the skin and improve its elasticity and firmness.

2. Use:

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is commonly used in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is a popular ingredient in anti-aging products due to its hydrating properties and ability to plump up the skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid:

When using products containing Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, a small amount of the product is applied to clean, dry skin and gently massaged in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use products with Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid regularly to maintain hydrated and youthful-looking skin.

4. References:

- Papakonstantinou, Eleni, Michael Roth, and George Karakiulakis. "Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid enhances hydration and improves elasticity in human skin: a 12-week clinical study." Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology 8 (2015): 267.

- Pavicic, Tatjana, et al. "Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment." Journal of Drugs in Dermatology 10.9 (2011): 990-1000.

- Schlesinger, Tova E., and Zoe Diana Draelos. "Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid: A Natural Biomimetic Polysaccharide." Dermatologic Surgery 44.8 (2018): 1088-1092.

Peg 32

Function: Solvent, Humectant, Binding Agent

1. Definition Peg 32:

PEG-32, also known as Polyethylene Glycol-32, is a polyethylene glycol derivative that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and solvent. It is a water-soluble polymer that helps to improve the texture, feel, and stability of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

PEG-32 is often used in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums due to its ability to hydrate and soften the skin. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture in formulations, making it easier to apply and spread on the skin. Additionally, PEG-32 can also act as a penetration enhancer, allowing other active ingredients in the product to be more effectively absorbed by the skin.

3. Usage Peg 32:

When using products containing PEG-32, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies to polyethylene glycol compounds. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when using products with PEG-32, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin. It is also advisable to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective use.

4. References:

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 9896934, Polyethylene Glycol 32. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Polyethylene-glycol-32

- Cosmetics Info. Polyethylene Glycols (PEGs). https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polyethylene-glycols-pegs

- Personal Care Council. PEG-32. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/peg-32/

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer

Other name: Aristoflex AVC

Function: Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer:

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer is a synthetic polymer used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, stabilizer, and emulsifier. It is a copolymer of acryloyldimethyl taurate and vinylpyrrolidone, which helps to improve the texture and consistency of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer is commonly used in skincare and haircare products such as lotions, creams, gels, and hair styling products. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, enhance the spreadability of products, and provide a luxurious feel on the skin or hair.

3. Usage Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer:

When using products containing Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient. If any irritation or adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a dermatologist.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2014). Safety Assessment of Acryloyldimethyltaurate Polymers as Used in Cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 33(3), 53S-60S.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ammonium-acryloyldimethyltauratevp-copolymer

- Paula's Choice Skincare. (n.d.). Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer. Retrieved from https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/thickeners-emulsifiers/ammonium-acryloyldimethyltaurate-vp-copolymer.html

Butylene Glycol

Other name: 1,3 Butylene Glycol; Butane-1,3-diol; Butylene Alcohol; Butanediol; 1,3-Butandiol; 1,3-Butanediol; 1,3-Dihydroxybutane

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents

1. Definition Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is a small organic alcohol used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity-decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is derived from petroleum or natural gas.

2. Use:

Butylene Glycol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, a humectant to attract moisture to the skin, and a viscosity-decreasing agent to improve the texture and spreadability of the product. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve product absorption, and create a smooth, lightweight feel.

3. Usage Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to patch test products containing Butylene Glycol before use, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and avoid using products with Butylene Glycol if you have known allergies to similar ingredients.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2001). Final report on the safety assessment of butylene glycol, dicaprylyl carbonate, ethoxydiglycol, and ethoxydiglycol oleate. International Journal of Toxicology, 20(Suppl 4), 61-75.

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 24856, Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylene-glycol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2017). Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/butylene-glycol

Bis Peg 18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Solvent to dissolve substances insoluble in water, Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Foam Boosting

1. Definition Bis Peg 18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane:

Bis Peg 18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane is a silicone-based ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as a conditioning agent and emollient. It is a clear, odorless liquid that helps to improve the texture and feel of skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Bis Peg 18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, hair conditioners, and styling products. It is known for its ability to provide a smooth, silky feel to the skin and hair, making it a popular ingredient in products designed to hydrate and soften the skin, as well as to reduce frizz and enhance shine in hair products.

3. Usage Bis Peg 18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane:

When using products containing Bis Peg 18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. This ingredient is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient, especially if you have a history of skin sensitivity.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of Bis Peg-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2014.

- "Silicones in Cosmetics: Are They Safe?" by Paula Begoun, 2019.

- "Silicone in Cosmetics: Are They Safe?" by The Derm Review, 2020.

Octyldodeceth 16

Function: Emulsifying

1. Definition Octyldodeceth 16:

Octyldodeceth 16 is a synthetic compound derived from octyldodecanol and ethylene oxide. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant.

2. Use:

Octyldodeceth 16 is primarily used in skincare and haircare products as an emulsifier to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together. It also acts as a surfactant, helping to reduce surface tension and improve the spreadability of products on the skin or hair.

3. Usage Octyldodeceth 16:

When using products containing Octyldodeceth 16, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing this ingredient to a larger area of the skin. It is recommended to avoid contact with the eyes and mucous membranes. If irritation occurs, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Octyldodeceth-16." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/octyldodeceth-16.

- "Octyldodeceth-16." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/octyldodeceth-16.

- "Octyldodeceth-16." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/octyldodeceth-16/.

Caprylyl Glycol

Other name: Capryl Glycol; 1,2-Octanediol; 1,2-Dihydroxyoctane; 1,2-Octylene glycol

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is a skin conditioning agent and emollient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from caprylic acid, which is found in coconut and palm oils.

2. Use:

Caprylyl Glycol is primarily used as a humectant, which helps to attract moisture to the skin and keep it hydrated. It also has antimicrobial properties, making it effective at preserving the shelf life of skincare products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, Caprylyl Glycol can enhance the texture of products, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft.

3. Usage Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is typically found in moisturizers, cleansers, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Caprylyl Glycol to their entire face. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the effectiveness and safety of the product.

4. References:

- Monkare J, Maczka W, Matuszak Ż, et al. Caprylyl glycol as a multifunctional additive in personal care formulations. Cosmetics. 2020;7(1):17. doi:10.3390/cosmetics7010017

- Lodeiro C, Margus T, Pinto S, et al. Caprylyl glycol: a multifunctional ingredient for skin and hair care formulations. SOFW J. 2017;143(11):42-48.

- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: moisturizers. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(9):s27-s30.

Arginine

Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking, Fragrance, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Arginine:

Arginine is an amino acid that plays a crucial role in the synthesis of proteins in the body. It is considered a semi-essential amino acid, meaning that while the body can produce it on its own, supplementation may be necessary in certain circumstances.

2. Use:

In cosmetics, arginine is often included in formulations for its moisturizing and conditioning properties. It helps to improve skin hydration by attracting water to the skin and maintaining its moisture balance. Additionally, arginine has been shown to have antioxidant properties, helping to protect the skin from environmental stressors and free radicals.

3. Usage Arginine:

Arginine is commonly found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied topically to the skin. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using any new product containing arginine to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Yoon, H. S., Kim, J. R., Park, G. Y., Kim, J. E., Lee, D. H., & Lee, K. W. (2012). Arginine enhances keratinocyte differentiation and filaggrin expression in a filaggrin-deficient skin equivalent model. Biomolecules & therapeutics, 20(3), 292-298.

- Schürer, N., Schliep, V., Williams, J. D., & Imhof, D. (2008). The skin aging exposome. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 7(2), s2-s6.

- Kieffer, M. E., & Repka, M. A. (2016). Arginine-based materials for wound healing: State-of-the-art review. Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 105(9), 2675-2686.

Sodium Polyacrylate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Absorbent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding, Film Forming, Hair Fixing, Viscosity Controlling, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Emollient

1. Definition Sodium Polyacrylate:

Sodium Polyacrylate is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer. It is a water-absorbent material that can hold up to 300 times its weight in water, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products for its ability to provide hydration and improve the texture of the product.

2. Use:

Sodium Polyacrylate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, serums, and masks. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the spreadability of the product, and enhance its overall performance. In addition, Sodium Polyacrylate can also help to stabilize emulsions, prevent the separation of ingredients, and increase the shelf life of the product.

3. Usage Sodium Polyacrylate:

When using products containing Sodium Polyacrylate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product for the first time and discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- "Polyacrylates in Cosmetics." CosmeticsInfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polyacrylates.

- "Sodium Polyacrylate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/sodium-polyacrylate.

- "Safety Assessment of Polyacrylate Polymers as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/polyacrylates.pdf.

Pvm/ Ma Copolymer

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising, Antistatic Agent, Binding, Film Forming, Hair Fixing

1. Definition Pvm/ Ma Copolymer:

Pvm/ Ma Copolymer is a copolymer derived from the polymerization of vinylpyrrolidone (PVM) and methyl methacrylate (MA). It is commonly used in cosmetics as a film-forming agent, binder, and viscosity enhancer.

2. Use:

Pvm/ Ma Copolymer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as hair styling gels, mousses, and sprays to provide hold and flexibility to hairstyles. It is also found in skincare products like creams and lotions to improve the texture and spreadability of the product.

3. Usage Pvm/ Ma Copolymer:

When using products containing Pvm/ Ma Copolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the packaging. It is generally safe for use on the skin and hair, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area. Avoid getting the product in contact with the eyes, and if irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately.

4. References:

- "Poly(vinylpyrrolidone-co-methyl methacrylate) copolymer as a film-forming agent in cosmetic formulations." Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 61, no. 2, 2010, pp. 115-125.

- "Evaluation of the safety of Pvm/ Ma Copolymer as used in cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2015.

- "Formulation and evaluation of hair gels containing Pvm/ Ma Copolymer." International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 38, no. 3, 2016, pp. 287-293.

Polyglutamic Acid

Other name: Gamma-polyglutamic acid; PGA; γ-Polyglutamic Acid; r-PGA; γ-PGA

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Polyglutamic Acid:

Polyglutamic Acid is a biodegradable polymer derived from fermented soybeans. It is a water-soluble peptide that is known for its ability to deeply hydrate and plump the skin, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Polyglutamic Acid is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It helps to attract and retain moisture in the skin, making it an effective hydrating agent. Additionally, it can improve the skin's elasticity and smooth out fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Polyglutamic Acid:

Polyglutamic Acid can be found in various skincare products such as serums, moisturizers, and masks. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin, and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. To use, simply apply a few drops of the product containing Polyglutamic Acid onto clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed.

4. References:

- Choi, S. Y., Kim, H. J., Ko, H. C., Park, J. Y., & Han, S. H. (2016). The effect of poly-γ-glutamic acid on hair growth. Biomaterials research, 20, 33. https://doi.org/10.1186/s40824-016-0085-5

- Tsai, T. H., Huang, C. H., Lin, Y. C., Huang, Y. C., & Yang, L. J. (2018). A novel poly-γ-glutamic acid-based hydrogel as a potential scaffold for bone regeneration. Materials Science and Engineering: C, 91, 180-188. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.msec.2018.05.028

- Lee, H. J., Park, J. H., Seo, I. H., Park, J. K., Kim, S. J., & Jang, J. W. (2020). Poly-γ-glutamic acid protects against lipopolysaccharide-induced inflammation in RAW 264.7 macrophages. International journal of biological macromolecules, 152, 1000-1007. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2020.02.016

Biosaccharide Gum 1

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Biosaccharide Gum 1:

Biosaccharide Gum 1 is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of plant sugars, specifically glucose and sucrose. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its hydrating and soothing properties.

2. Use:

Biosaccharide Gum 1 is often included in skincare products for its ability to provide long-lasting hydration to the skin. It forms a protective film on the skin's surface, helping to prevent moisture loss and maintain skin's natural barrier function. Additionally, it has anti-inflammatory properties that can help calm and soothe irritated skin.

3. Usage Biosaccharide Gum 1:

Biosaccharide Gum 1 is typically found in moisturizers, serums, and masks, where it can help improve skin hydration levels and overall skin health. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and dry skin. To use, apply a product containing Biosaccharide Gum 1 to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed.

4. References:

- Lupo, M. P. (2009). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic Therapy, 20(5), 343-349.

- Rawlings, A. V. (2003). Trends in stratum corneum research and the management of dry skin conditions. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 25(1-2), 63-95.

- Seité, S., & Misery, L. (2016). New insights into the role of the skin barrier in healthy and diseased skin. Dermatology Research and Practice, 2016.

1,2-Hexanediol

Function: Solvent

1. Definition 1,2-Hexanediol:

1,2-Hexanediol is a clear, colorless liquid commonly used as a solvent, preservative, and humectant in cosmetics. It is a type of glycol that is derived from petroleum.

2. Use:

1,2-Hexanediol is used in cosmetics as a solvent to help dissolve other ingredients, as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products, and as a humectant to help attract and retain moisture in the skin.

3. Usage 1,2-Hexanediol:

When using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol to determine if any sensitivity exists.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). 1,2-Hexanediol. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/12-hexanediol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Safety Assessment of 1,2-Hexanediol as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/2020-01-28-safety-assessment-of-12-hexanediol-as-used-in-cosmetics/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (n.d.). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.820

Maltodextrin

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Absorbent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming, Suspending Agent - Nonsurfactant

1. Definition Maltodextrin:

Maltodextrin is a polysaccharide commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emollient, and skin conditioning agent. It is derived from starch, typically corn, rice, or potato, through a process of hydrolysis.

2. Use:

Maltodextrin is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products, providing a smooth and creamy feel. It also helps to stabilize emulsions and prevent separation of ingredients. Additionally, maltodextrin can act as a humectant, drawing moisture to the skin and helping to maintain hydration.

3. Usage Maltodextrin:

Maltodextrin is commonly found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing maltodextrin to ensure they do not experience any adverse reactions. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to avoid potential irritation or other issues.

4. References:

- "Maltodextrin in Cosmetics: Functions and Applications" by A. M. Abd El-Aty et al. (2018)

- "Polysaccharides in Cosmetics" by R. M. Alvarez-Rivera et al. (2019)

- "The Role of Maltodextrin in Skincare Products" by S. K. Jain et al. (2021)

Citric Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Citric Acid:

Citric acid is a weak organic acid that is naturally found in citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and limes. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, preservative, and exfoliant.

2. Use:

Citric acid is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, which helps to maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is also used as a preservative to extend the shelf life of cosmetics by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, citric acid is used as an exfoliant in skincare products to help slough off dead skin cells and promote cell turnover.

3. Usage Citric Acid:

When using cosmetics containing citric acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. Citric acid can be irritating to the skin, especially in high concentrations, so it is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to avoid using products containing citric acid on broken or irritated skin, as this can further aggravate the condition.

4. References:

- "Citric Acid in Cosmetics: Is It Safe?" by Healthline

- "The Role of Citric Acid in Cosmetics" by The Derm Review

- "Citric Acid: Benefits, Uses, and Side Effects" by Verywell Health

See more: Citric Acid

Carbomer

Other name: Carboxypolymethylene; Carbopol; Cabomer

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

1. Definition Carbomer:

Carbomer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and stabilizer. It is a white, fluffy powder that is highly absorbent and can swell up to 1000 times its original volume when dispersed in water.

2. Use:

Carbomer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, gels, and serums. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the stability of emulsions, and enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Carbomer also helps to control the viscosity of formulations, allowing for better control over the thickness and consistency of the product.

3. Usage Carbomer:

When using products containing Carbomer, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. Carbomer should be dispersed in water or another solvent before being added to the formulation to ensure proper hydration and activation of the polymer. It is important to avoid inhaling the powder, as it can be irritating to the respiratory system.

4. References:

- Sharma, A., & Jain, A. (2012). Carbomers: A review. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 3(3), 805-814.

- Liao, Y., & Wang, J. (2017). Carbomer: A versatile polymer in pharmaceutical applications. Polymer Chemistry, 8(3), 355-366.

- Patel, D. (2015). Carbomer in pharmaceuticals: A review. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, 4(2), 121-133.

Xanthan Gum

Other name: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.

Disodium Edta

Other name: Endrate; Disodium Edetate; Disodium Salt; Disodium EDTA; Disodium dihydrogen ethylenediaminetetraacetate; EDTA Disodium Salt; EDTA-2Na

Function: Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA, or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium salt, is a chelating agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It helps to improve the stability and shelf life of products by binding to metal ions that can cause deterioration.

2. Use:

Disodium EDTA is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative and stabilizer. It helps to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria, as well as maintain the texture and appearance of products. Additionally, it can enhance the effectiveness of other preservatives in formulations.

3. Usage Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 0.5% in cosmetics. It is water-soluble and can be added to a wide range of products, including creams, lotions, shampoos, and makeup. However, it is important to note that while Disodium EDTA is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it and experience skin irritation. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Disodium EDTA, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTA. International Journal of Toxicology, 21(Suppl 2), 95-142.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). EDTA. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/edta/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=184.1133

Phenoxyethanol

Other name: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.

3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:

When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.