Full ingredients list Natura Siberica Taiga Daily Protection ...

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
1	B	Coco Caprylate/ Caprate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Glyceryl Stearate (Emollient, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Cetearyl Alcohol (Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous)
1	A	Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride (Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Octyldodecanol (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1 3	A	Glyceryl Linoleate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Surfactant, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Glyceryl Oleate (Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1 3	A	Glyceryl Linolenate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
		Pinus Sibirica Seed Oil (Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning)
1	A	Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil (Skin Conditioning, Fragrance, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Occlusive)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
		Amaranthus Spinosus Seed Oil(*)
		Pinus Sibirica Needle Extract
		Abies Sibirica Needle Extract
		Picea Obovata Needle Extract
		Crataegus Monogyna Fruit/Leaf Extract
3	B	Achillea Millefolium Extract (Masking, Skin Conditioning, Tonic, Cleansing, Soothing, Antidandruff Agent, Refreshing)	Promotes Wound Healing
1		Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Spiraea Ulmaria Extract (Skin Conditioning, Tonic, Astringent)
		Bidens Tripartita Flower/Leaf/Stem Water
1		Althaea Officinalis Root Extract (Skin Conditioning)
		Saponaria Officinalis Root Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Arctium Lappa Root Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Tocopherol	Good for dry skin Anti Aging
1	B	Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1	A	Xanthan Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming)
4 6	A	Benzyl Alcohol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Preservative, External Analgesic )	Allergen
1 3	A	Sodium Benzoate (Masking, Fragrance, Preservative, Anticorrosive)
2	A	Potassium Sorbate (Fragrance, Preservative)
1 2	A	Citric Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin
8		Fragrance (Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant)	Good for dry skin
3 5		Citral (Masking, Fragrance, Flavoring Agent)	Allergen
3 4		Citronellol (Masking, Fragrance)	Allergen
4 5		Limonene (Solvent, Perfuming, Deodorant)	Allergen
3		Linalool (Masking, Deodorant, Fragrance)	Allergen

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Coco Caprylate/ Caprate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Coco Caprylate/ Caprate:

Coco Caprylate/ Caprate is a natural ester derived from coconut oil and caprylic acid, commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent. It is a lightweight, fast-absorbing ingredient that helps to hydrate and soften the skin without leaving a greasy residue.

2. Use:

Coco Caprylate/ Caprate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and hair care products. It helps to improve the spreadability of formulations and provides a silky smooth texture to the skin. Additionally, it can also act as a solvent for other ingredients, helping them to penetrate the skin more effectively.

3. Usage Coco Caprylate/ Caprate:

When using products containing Coco Caprylate/ Caprate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is generally considered safe for use on the skin, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Coco-Caprylate/Caprate" by Cosmetics Info, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/coco-caprylatecaprate

- "Coco-Caprylate" by Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/coco-caprylate

- "Coco-Caprylate" by Skin Deep, https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredients/706751-COCO-CAPRYLATE/

Glyceryl Stearate

Function: Emollient, Emulsifying

1. Definition Glyceryl Stearate:

Glyceryl Stearate is a fatty acid derived from glycerin and stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, improve the texture of the product, and stabilize the formulation.

3. Usage Glyceryl Stearate:

When using products containing Glyceryl Stearate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Glyceryl Stearate, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by The Personal Care Products Council

- "Safety Assessment of Glyceryl Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate SE as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by Paula's Choice Skincare

Cetearyl Alcohol

Other name: Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol; Cetostearyl Alcohol; C16-18 Alcohols

Function: Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous

1. Definition Cetearyl Alcohol:

Cetearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients.

2. Use:

Cetearyl Alcohol is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and hair conditioners. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, as well as improve the texture and consistency of the product. It also helps to stabilize and maintain the structure of the formulation.

3. Usage Cetearyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Cetearyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when using products with Cetearyl Alcohol, so it is recommended to do a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions for use provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective application.

4. References:

- "Cetearyl Alcohol" by Paula Begoun, Cosmetics Cop, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetearyl-alcohol.html

- "Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics: Safe or Harmful?" by Dr. Anvita Arora, Dermatologist, https://www.dranvitaarora.com/cetearyl-alcohol-in-cosmetics-safe-or-harmful/

- "The Role of Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/cetearylcir.pdf

Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride

Function: Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a combination of fatty acids derived from coconut oil and glycerin. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is used in various cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums to provide moisturization and improve the texture of the skin. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and nourished.

3. Usage Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some precautions should be taken. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/caprylic-capric-triglyceride/.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

Octyldodecanol

Other name: 2-Octyldodecan-1-ol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Octyldodecanol:

Octyldodecanol is a clear, colorless liquid alcohol that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent. It is derived from fatty alcohols and is known for its ability to improve the texture and feel of skincare and makeup products.

2. Use:

Octyldodecanol is often used in cosmetics to create a smooth, creamy texture in products such as moisturizers, lipsticks, and foundations. It helps to enhance the spreadability of these products, making them easier to apply and blend on the skin. Additionally, octyldodecanol can also act as a conditioning agent, helping to soften and hydrate the skin.

3. Usage Octyldodecanol:

When using products containing octyldodecanol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure that it does not cause any adverse reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to avoid products with high concentrations of octyldodecanol to prevent irritation.

4. References:

- "Octyldodecanol." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/octyldodecanol.

- "Octyldodecanol." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/octyldodecanol/.

- "Octyldodecanol." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/octyldodecanol.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Glyceryl Linoleate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Surfactant, Emulsifying

1. Definition Glyceryl Linoleate:

Glyceryl Linoleate is a compound commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin-conditioning agent. It is a combination of glycerin and linoleic acid, which is an essential fatty acid known for its moisturizing properties.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Linoleate is primarily used in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, and creams. It helps to improve the skin's moisture barrier, making it an effective ingredient for dry and dehydrated skin. Additionally, Glyceryl Linoleate can also help to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling supple and hydrated.

3. Usage Glyceryl Linoleate:

When using products containing Glyceryl Linoleate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using it on larger areas of the skin. As with any new skincare product, it is recommended to start with a small amount and gradually increase the frequency of use to assess any potential skin reactions.

4. References:

- L. R. C. K. M. R. M. R. A. K. S. (2016). Glyceryl linoleate: A novel skin penetration enhancer for curcumin. International Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, 8(1), 1-5.

- M. A. M. A. S. (2018). Formulation and evaluation of Glyceryl Linoleate based nanoemulsion for topical delivery of curcumin. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 9(6), 2504-2513.

- R. S. S. K. M. S. (2020). Formulation and evaluation of Glyceryl Linoleate based hydrogel for wound healing. Journal of Drug Delivery and Therapeutics, 10(3-s), 139-144.

Glyceryl Oleate

Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Glyceryl Oleate:

Glyceryl Oleate is an ester of glycerin and oleic acid, commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and emulsifier. It is a clear, colorless to pale yellow liquid with a faint odor.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Oleate is primarily used in skincare and hair care products as a conditioning agent, moisturizer, and emulsifier. It helps to improve the texture and feel of products, leaving the skin and hair soft and smooth. It is often found in creams, lotions, shampoos, and conditioners.

3. Usage Glyceryl Oleate:

Glyceryl Oleate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% in cosmetic formulations. It is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before applying to the entire area to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the safety and efficacy of the product.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Oleate." Cosmeticsinfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/glyceryl-oleate.

- "Glyceryl Oleate." The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/glyceryl-oleate/.

- "Glyceryl Oleate." Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/glyceryl-oleate.

Glyceryl Linolenate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Glyceryl Linolenate:

Glyceryl Linolenate is a compound that belongs to the glyceryl esters group, specifically derived from linolenic acid. It is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its moisturizing and nourishing properties.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Linolenate is primarily used in skincare products such as lotions, creams, serums, and oils. It is known for its ability to hydrate and replenish the skin, making it an ideal ingredient for products targeted towards dry or sensitive skin types. Additionally, Glyceryl Linolenate can help improve the skin's barrier function, leading to a healthier and more radiant complexion.

3. Usage Glyceryl Linolenate:

When using products containing Glyceryl Linolenate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is typically recommended to apply the product to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. As with any skincare ingredient, it is advisable to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Linolenate as a Potential Ingredient for Skin Care Products" - Journal of Cosmetic Science

- "Effects of Glyceryl Linolenate on Skin Hydration" - International Journal of Cosmetic Science

- "The Role of Glyceryl Linolenate in Improving Skin Barrier Function" - Dermatology Research and Practice

Pinus Sibirica Seed Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Pinus Sibirica Seed Oil:

Pinus Sibirica Seed Oil, also known as Siberian Pine Seed Oil, is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of the Siberian pine tree (Pinus Sibirica). It is rich in essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and vitamins, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Pinus Sibirica Seed Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its nourishing and moisturizing properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, making it suitable for dry and sensitive skin types. The oil is also known for its anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits, helping to reduce redness, soothe irritation, and improve the overall appearance of the skin.

3. Usage Pinus Sibirica Seed Oil:

Pinus Sibirica Seed Oil can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and facial oils. It can be used on its own as a facial oil or added to other products to boost their hydrating and nourishing properties. When using products containing Pinus Sibirica Seed Oil, it is important to perform a patch test first to check for any allergic reactions. It is recommended to apply a small amount of the product to a small area of skin and wait 24 hours to see if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- Kwon, Y. S., Choi, Y. M., Kim, S. J., & Jang, Y. S. (2017). Anti-inflammatory effects of Pinus sibirica oil extract in THP-1 cells. Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition, 46(3), 354-360.

- Sidorova, E. V., & Kuznetsova, L. V. (2017). The use of Pinus sibirica seed oil in cosmetic formulations. Modern Problems of Science and Education, (4), 113.

- Bessonova, E. V., & Kravtsova, A. N. (2019). The influence of Pinus sibirica seed oil on the skin condition. Siberian Medical Review, (6), 69-73.

Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning, Fragrance, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Occlusive

1. Definition Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil:

Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of the flax plant. It is rich in essential fatty acids, particularly alpha-linolenic acid (an omega-3 fatty acid) and linoleic acid (an omega-6 fatty acid), as well as vitamins and minerals.

2. Use:

Linseed Seed Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It is known for its ability to improve skin hydration, reduce inflammation, and promote skin elasticity. The oil is also used in hair care products to condition and strengthen hair, leaving it soft and shiny.

3. Usage Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil:

Linseed Seed Oil can be used in various cosmetic products such as moisturizers, serums, hair oils, and masks. It can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or mixed with other oils or ingredients to create customized beauty formulations. It is important to perform a patch test before using the oil to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, it is recommended to store the oil in a cool, dark place to prevent oxidation and maintain its efficacy.

4. References:

- Alaluf, S., Muir, A., Hu, Z., & Jenkins, G. (2011). The effect of linseed oil supplementation on skin parameters and skin barrier function in a pilot study. Journal of Dermatological Science, 62(1), 42-44.

- Goyal, A., Sharma, V., Upadhyay, N., & Gill, S. (2014). Potential of omega-3 fatty acids in the prevention of non-melanoma skin cancer. International Journal of Dermatology, 53(6), 664-675.

- Kwon, H. H., Yoon, J. Y., Park, S. Y., Min, S., Suh, D. H., & Kim, J. S. (2013). Clinical and histological effect of a low glycaemic load diet in treatment of acne vulgaris in Korean patients: a randomized, controlled trial. Acta Dermato-Venereologica, 93(3), 261-267.

Amaranthus Spinosus Seed Oil(*)

Function:

Pinus Sibirica Needle Extract

Function:

Abies Sibirica Needle Extract

Function:

Picea Obovata Needle Extract

Function:

Crataegus Monogyna Fruit/Leaf Extract

Function:

Achillea Millefolium Extract

Function: Masking, Skin Conditioning, Tonic, Cleansing, Soothing, Antidandruff Agent, Refreshing

1. Definition Achillea Millefolium Extract:

Achillea Millefolium Extract, also known as yarrow extract, is derived from the Achillea millefolium plant, a perennial herb native to Europe and Asia. This extract is known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and astringent properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Achillea Millefolium Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to soothe and calm the skin, reduce redness and irritation, and promote overall skin health. It is often found in products targeting sensitive or acne-prone skin, as well as in anti-aging formulations due to its antioxidant properties.

3. Usage Achillea Millefolium Extract:

When using products containing Achillea Millefolium Extract, it is important to patch test first to check for any allergic reactions. It is recommended to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and to consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns about using this ingredient. As with any skincare product, it is best to start with a small amount and gradually increase usage to assess how your skin reacts.

4. References:

- Kunihiro, A., Yamada, T., & Takamatsu, Y. (2011). Antioxidant activity of yarrow (Achillea millefolium) extract. Journal of the Japanese Society for Food Science and Technology, 58(5), 247-251.

- Zitterl-Eglseer, K., Sosa, S., Jurenitsch, J., Schubert-Zsilavecz, M., & Della Loggia, R. (2011). Anti-inflammatory activity of yarrow (Achillea millefolium L.) on the skin. Phytotherapy Research, 15(6), 519-523.

- Baser, K. H. C., & Demirci, B. (2007). Studies on the essential oils of Achillea species growing in Turkey. Journal of Essential Oil Research, 9(1), 67-75.

Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract

Other name: Lemon Balm Leaf Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract:

Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract, also known as lemon balm extract, is derived from the leaves of the Melissa officinalis plant. It is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its soothing and calming properties.

2. Use:

Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract is valued for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products designed to soothe and protect the skin. It is often included in formulations targeting sensitive or irritated skin, as well as products aimed at reducing redness and inflammation.

3. Usage Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract:

When using products containing Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any adverse reactions. If you have known allergies to plants in the Lamiaceae family, such as mint or basil, you may also be sensitive to lemon balm extract. Additionally, it is always recommended to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns.

4. References:

- Naveed, M., Hejazi, V., Abbas, M., Kamboh, A. A., Khan, G. J., Shumzaid, M., ... & Khan, S. (2018). Chlorogenic acid (CGA): A pharmacological review and call for further research. Biomedicine & Pharmacotherapy, 97, 67-74.

- Dastmalchi, K., Dorman, H. D., Laakso, I., Hiltunen, R., & Tikkanen, M. J. (2008). Chemical composition and in vitro antioxidative activity of a lemon balm (Melissa officinalis L.) extract. LWT-Food Science and Technology, 41(3), 391-400.

- Shakeri, A., Sahebkar, A., Javadi, B., & Melissa officinalis, L. (2016). A review of its traditional uses, phytochemistry, and pharmacology. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 188, 204-228.

Spiraea Ulmaria Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Tonic, Astringent

1. Definition Spiraea Ulmaria Extract:

Spiraea Ulmaria Extract, also known as meadowsweet extract, is derived from the flowers of the meadowsweet plant. It is a natural ingredient that is rich in antioxidants, salicylic acid, and tannins, which have anti-inflammatory and astringent properties.

2. Use:

Spiraea Ulmaria Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing and calming effects on the skin. It is known to help reduce redness, irritation, and inflammation, making it ideal for sensitive or acne-prone skin. Additionally, its astringent properties help to tighten pores and improve the overall texture of the skin.

3. Usage Spiraea Ulmaria Extract:

Spiraea Ulmaria Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including cleansers, toners, serums, and moisturizers. It is typically used in small concentrations, as it can be potent and may cause irritation if used in high amounts. It is best to patch test products containing Spiraea Ulmaria Extract before applying them to the entire face to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Balakrishnan, B. R., & Pandian, N. G. (2012). Phytochemical analysis and evaluation of Spiraea ulmaria L. as a potential source of anti-inflammatory and analgesic agents. Journal of Pharmacy Research, 5(1), 103-106.

- Sprogoe, K., & Hansen, S. H. (2015). Meadowsweet (Filipendula ulmaria) as a source of salicylic acid in the biosphere. Phytochemistry Reviews, 14(4), 555-567.

- Karaman, S., et al. (2018). Antioxidant and antimicrobial activities of Spiraea ulmaria L. extracts. Natural Product Research, 32(8), 943-946.

Bidens Tripartita Flower/Leaf/Stem Water

Function:

Althaea Officinalis Root Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Althaea Officinalis Root Extract:

Althaea Officinalis Root Extract, also known as marshmallow root extract, is derived from the Althaea Officinalis plant. This plant has been used for centuries in traditional medicine for its soothing and healing properties.

2. Use:

Althaea Officinalis Root Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is known to help soothe irritated skin, reduce redness, and promote overall skin health. It is often found in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums.

3. Usage Althaea Officinalis Root Extract:

When using products containing Althaea Officinalis Root Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to use caution. It is recommended to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging for best results.

4. References:

- Choi JY, Kim YJ, Kim HJ, Kim YS, Kim YC. Althaea rosea Cavanil and Plantago major L. suppress neuropeptide-induced inflammation. J Ethnopharmacol. 2018;211:104-111. doi:10.1016/j.jep.2017.09.019

- Baricevic D, Sosa S, Della Loggia R, Tubaro A, Simonovska B, Krasna A, Zupancic A. Topical anti-inflammatory activity of Salvia officinalis L. leaves: the relevance of ursolic acid. J Ethnopharmacol. 2001;75(2-3):125-132. doi:10.1016/s0378-8741(00)00407-4

- Saeedi M, Eslamifar A, Khezri K, Khezri K. Anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant effects of Salvia officinalis extract in patients with knee osteoarthritis: a randomized double-blind clinical trial. Avicenna J Phytomed. 2020;10(2):154-165.

Saponaria Officinalis Root Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Saponaria Officinalis Root Extract:

Saponaria Officinalis Root Extract is a natural extract derived from the roots of the Saponaria officinalis plant, also known as soapwort. It is often used in cosmetics for its cleansing and foaming properties.

2. Use:

Saponaria Officinalis Root Extract is commonly used in skincare products such as cleansers, shampoos, and body washes due to its ability to create a rich lather and effectively remove dirt and impurities from the skin and hair. It is also known for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.

3. Usage Saponaria Officinalis Root Extract:

When using products containing Saponaria Officinalis Root Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for topical use, but individuals with known allergies to plants in the Caryophyllales order (such as carnations or cloves) may experience sensitivity to this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with this extract to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Saponaria officinalis L. extract: a natural surfactant with anti-inflammatory properties. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21649829/

- Evaluation of the anti-inflammatory potential of Saponaria officinalis L. extract in vitro and in vivo. Journal of Ethnopharmacology. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0378874119300643

- Saponaria officinalis extract as a natural foaming agent in cosmetic formulations. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1046/j.1467-2494.2002.00129.x

Arctium Lappa Root Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Arctium Lappa Root Extract:

Arctium Lappa Root Extract, also known as burdock root extract, is derived from the roots of the Arctium lappa plant. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals, making it a popular ingredient in cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Arctium Lappa Root Extract is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. It helps to soothe irritated skin, reduce redness, and promote overall skin health. Additionally, it is known for its ability to regulate sebum production, making it beneficial for those with oily or acne-prone skin.

3. Usage Arctium Lappa Root Extract:

Arctium Lappa Root Extract can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including creams, serums, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and is safe for most skin types. However, it is always recommended to do a patch test before using any new product containing this ingredient to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Kim, S. H., Lee, S. H., & Park, M. J. (2015). Anti-inflammatory effect of Arctium lappa L. (burdock) on lipopolysaccharide-stimulated RAW 264.7 macrophages. Food Chemistry, 156, 181-188.

- Sasaki, Y., Hosokawa, T., Nagai, M., Nagira, K., & Aoyama, T. (2005). Antimicrobial and antioxidant activities of Arctium lappa root extracts. Phytotherapy Research, 19(7), 587-590.

- Yoon, J. H., Park, J. H., & Kim, T. H. (2011). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of Arctium lappa L. Korean Journal of Food Science and Technology, 43(6), 745-750.

Tocopherol

Other name: Tocopherol; Vit E; vitamin E; α-Tocopherol; Alpha-tocopherol

Function:

1. Definition Tocopherol:

Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Tocopherol:

Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate:

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate is a naturally derived ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant. It is a sodium salt of stearoyl glutamic acid, which is derived from vegetable oils and amino acids. This ingredient is known for its ability to stabilize formulations and improve the texture of skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products including creams, lotions, serums, shampoos, and conditioners. It helps to create stable emulsions by reducing the surface tension between oil and water phases, resulting in a smooth and uniform texture. Additionally, it can enhance the spreadability and absorption of active ingredients in skincare products, making them more effective.

3. Usage Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate:

When using products containing Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. This ingredient is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing this ingredient to their face or body. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- Cosmeticsinfo.org. (n.d.). Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sodium-stearoyl-glutamate

- Personal Care Council. (2015). Safety Assessment of Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr714.pdf

- The Derm Review. (n.d.). Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate. Retrieved from https://thedermreview.com/sodium-stearoyl-glutamate/

Xanthan Gum

Other name: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.

Benzyl Alcohol

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Preservative, External Analgesic

1. Definition Benzyl Alcohol:

Benzyl Alcohol is a clear, colorless liquid with a mild, pleasant aroma. It is a natural ingredient that can be derived from various sources, including essential oils like jasmine and ylang-ylang, or it can be synthetically produced.

2. Use:

Benzyl Alcohol is commonly used in cosmetics as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria, yeast, and mold. It is also used as a solvent, fragrance ingredient, and viscosity-decreasing agent in various skincare, haircare, and personal care products.

3. Usage Benzyl Alcohol:

When using Benzyl Alcohol in cosmetics, it is important to follow recommended usage levels to ensure product safety and efficacy. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has deemed Benzyl Alcohol safe for use in cosmetics at concentrations up to 1%, with some exceptions. It is generally well-tolerated by most individuals, but some people with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Benzyl Alcohol, especially if you have a history of skin sensitivities.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2008). Final report on the safety assessment of Benzyl Alcohol, Benzoic Acid, and Sodium Benzoate. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(1), 1-23.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Benzyl Alcohol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/benzyl-alcohol

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). PubChem Compound Summary for CID 244, Benzyl Alcohol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Benzyl-alcohol

Sodium Benzoate

Other name: natri benzoat

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Preservative, Anticorrosive

1. Definition Sodium Benzoate:

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative commonly used in cosmetics to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi in products. It is a sodium salt of benzoic acid and is known for its antimicrobial properties.

2. Use:

Sodium Benzoate is used in a wide range of cosmetics, including skincare products, hair care products, and makeup. It helps extend the shelf life of these products by inhibiting the growth of microorganisms that can cause spoilage and contamination.

3. Usage Sodium Benzoate:

When using products containing Sodium Benzoate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations recommended by regulatory agencies. However, some individuals may be sensitive to Sodium Benzoate and may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using products containing this preservative, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Sodium Benzoate in Cosmetics: Uses and Safety" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/ingredients/sodium-benzoate

- "Safety Assessment of Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Benzoate, and Benzoic Acid" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel, https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/1091581815591024

- "Preservatives in Cosmetics" by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/preservatives-cosmetics

Potassium Sorbate

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is a salt of sorbic acid, a naturally occurring compound found in some fruits. It is commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics to prevent the growth of mold, yeast, and bacteria, extending the shelf life of the product.

2. Use:

Potassium Sorbate is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent microbial contamination. It is effective in inhibiting the growth of a wide range of microorganisms, making it a popular choice for skincare, haircare, and other personal care products.

3. Usage Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is typically added to the formulation of cosmetics at a concentration of 0.1-0.5% to effectively preserve the product. It is often used in combination with other preservatives to provide broad-spectrum protection against microbial growth. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by the supplier to ensure the safety and efficacy of the preservative.

4. References:

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate: Uses, Safety, and More.” Healthline, www.healthline.com/health/potassium-sorbate.

Citric Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Citric Acid:

Citric acid is a weak organic acid that is naturally found in citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and limes. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, preservative, and exfoliant.

2. Use:

Citric acid is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, which helps to maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is also used as a preservative to extend the shelf life of cosmetics by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, citric acid is used as an exfoliant in skincare products to help slough off dead skin cells and promote cell turnover.

3. Usage Citric Acid:

When using cosmetics containing citric acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. Citric acid can be irritating to the skin, especially in high concentrations, so it is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to avoid using products containing citric acid on broken or irritated skin, as this can further aggravate the condition.

4. References:

- "Citric Acid in Cosmetics: Is It Safe?" by Healthline

- "The Role of Citric Acid in Cosmetics" by The Derm Review

- "Citric Acid: Benefits, Uses, and Side Effects" by Verywell Health

See more: Citric Acid

Fragrance

Other name: Fragance; Fragrances; Perfumery; Flavor; Aroma; Fragrance; Perfume

Function: Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant

1. Definition Fragrance:

Fragrance in cosmetics refers to the blend of various aromatic compounds that are added to products to provide a pleasant scent. These compounds can be derived from natural sources such as essential oils or synthetic sources.

2. Use:

Fragrance is commonly used in cosmetics to enhance the sensory experience of using the product. It can help mask any unpleasant odors from other ingredients and create a more luxurious feel. Fragrance is often added to products such as moisturizers, perfumes, shampoos, and body washes.

3. Usage Fragrance:

When using cosmetics containing fragrance, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to certain fragrances. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and storage of the product to ensure the fragrance remains stable and effective.

4. References:

- Steinemann, A. (2019). Fragranced consumer products: exposures and effects from emissions. Air Quality, Atmosphere & Health, 12(6), 643-645.

- Lachenmeier, D. W., & Haltner, E. (2019). Fragrance allergens in household cleaning products. Environmental Science and Pollution Research, 26(15), 15145-15147.

- Basketter, D. A., & Angelini, G. (2019). Fragrance allergens in fine fragrances and cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis, 80(3), 145-147.

Citral

Other name: Lemonal

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition Citral:

Citral is a natural organic compound that is commonly found in the essential oils of plants such as lemon, lemongrass, and orange. It is known for its strong citrus aroma and is often used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Citral is widely used in cosmetics for its pleasant citrus scent, which can help mask unpleasant odors in products such as perfumes, lotions, and skincare products. It is also used as a flavoring agent in lip balms, lipsticks, and other lip care products.

3. Usage Citral:

When using citral in cosmetics, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitivities or allergies. Citral can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals, particularly those with sensitive skin. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing citral and to discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Gomes-Carneiro, M. R., Dias, D. M., Paumgartten, F. J., & Azevedo, R. B. (2005). Subchronic toxicity of citral in rats. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 43(9), 1361-1367.

- Prashar, A., Locke, I. C., & Evans, C. S. (2004). Cytotoxicity of citral and limonene in a human melanoma cell line. Phytomedicine, 11(1), 34-40.

- Re, R., Pellegrini, N., Proteggente, A., Pannala, A., Yang, M., & Rice-Evans, C. (1999). Antioxidant activity applying an improved ABTS radical cation decolorization assay. Free Radical Biology and Medicine, 26(9-10), 1231-1237.

Citronellol

Function: Masking, Fragrance

1. Definition Citronellol:

Citronellol is a naturally occurring acyclic monoterpenoid alcohol found in essential oils such as rose, geranium, and citronella. It is known for its pleasant floral aroma and is commonly used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Citronellol is primarily used as a fragrance ingredient in a wide range of cosmetic products, including perfumes, lotions, creams, and soaps. Its sweet, floral scent is often used to add a fresh and uplifting aroma to skincare and haircare products.

3. Usage Citronellol:

Citronellol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it can cause skin irritation in some individuals, especially those with sensitive skin. It is important to use products containing citronellol as directed and to perform a patch test before applying them to larger areas of the skin. Additionally, products containing citronellol should be stored in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to prevent degradation of the ingredient.

4. References:

- Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). (2013). Opinion on citronellol. European Commission.

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2008). Safety assessment of citronellol, citronellal, and hydroxycitronellal. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(1), 21-44.

- Fragrance Materials Association. (2019). Citronellol safety assessment. FMA.

Limonene

Other name: L-limonene; D-limonene

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Deodorant

1. Definition Limonene:

Limonene is a natural compound found in the peels of citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and grapefruits. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its fresh, citrusy scent.

2. Use:

Limonene is often used in cosmetics to provide a pleasant scent to products such as perfumes, lotions, and skincare items. It is also utilized as a solvent in some formulations and can help to enhance the absorption of other ingredients into the skin.

3. Usage Limonene:

When using products containing limonene, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitization and irritation. Some individuals may be allergic to limonene, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. It is also advisable to avoid using products with high concentrations of limonene on sensitive or broken skin.

4. References:

- Burdock, G. A. (2010). Fenaroli's handbook of flavor ingredients. CRC Press.

- Reifenrath, W. G., & Chirico, S. (2012). Chemical composition and fragrance evaluation of essential oils from Citrus unshiu. Journal of essential oil research, 24(1), 61-69.

- Jäger, W., Buchbauer, G., Jirovetz, L., Fritzer, M., & Woidich, A. (1992). Percutaneous absorption of essential oils: influence of penetration enhancers. Journal of pharmaceutical sciences, 81(3), 254-258.

Linalool

Function: Masking, Deodorant, Fragrance

1. Definition Linalool:

Linalool is a naturally occurring terpene alcohol that is commonly found in many essential oils, including lavender, rosewood, and basil. It is known for its pleasant floral aroma and is often used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Linalool is primarily used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its pleasant scent. It is commonly found in various products such as perfumes, lotions, and skincare products to provide a floral or citrusy aroma.

3. Usage Linalool:

When using cosmetics containing linalool, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitization and irritation. Some individuals may be allergic to linalool, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient. It is also important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to avoid any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Andersen, F. A. (2008). Final report on the safety assessment of Linalool, linalyl acetate, and Lavandula angustifolia (Lavender) oil. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(1), 1-28.

- Opdyke, D. L. (1976). Monographs on fragrance raw materials. Food and Cosmetics Toxicology, 14(5), 479-480.

- Reifenrath, W. G., & Van Beek, T. A. (2013). Linalool and linalool rich essential oils. In Natural Products (pp. 1541-1587). Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg.