Ingredients list NATURE REPUBLIC Green Derma Mild Cica ...

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
2 9		Zinc Oxide (Skin Protecting, Cosmetic Colorant, Sunscreen Agent, Bulking Agent)	UV Protection Good for oily skin
2	A	Cyclohexasiloxane (Solvent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
2		Propanediol (Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1	B	Propylheptyl Caprylate (Emollient)
1	B	Isododecane (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Emollient)
1		Polyglyceryl 3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone (Skin Conditioning, Surfactant, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsifying, Hair Conditioning)
1		Dicaprylyl Carbonate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1		Caprylyl Methicone (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Niacinamide (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing)	Anti Aging Brightening
1	B	Butyloctyl Salicylate (Solvent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
1	B	Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract (Skin Conditioning)	Promotes Wound Healing
1		Propolis Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1 2	A	Hydrogenated Lecithin (Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Suspending Agent- Nonsurfactant)
1	A	Disteardimonium Hectorite (Viscosity Controlling, Stabilising)
1	A	Magnesium Sulfate (Hair Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Bulking Agent)
1	A	Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer (Viscosity Increasing Agent, Film Forming)
1		Triethoxycaprylylsilane (Binding Agent, Binding)
1	A	1,2-Hexanediol (Solvent)
1	A	Vinyl Dimethicone/ Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer (Viscosity Controlling)
1		Polyglyceryl 2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive)
1	A	Lauryl Polyglyceryl 3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone (Skin Conditioning, Surfactant, Hair Conditioning)
1	A	Glyceryl Caprylate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1	A	Caprylyl Glycol (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
2	A	Ethylhexylglycerin (Deodorant, Skin Conditioning)
1		Adenosine (Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging
1		Tocopherol	Good for dry skin Anti Aging
1	A	Butylene Glycol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents)	Good for dry skin
1		Ceramide 3 (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging
1		Madecassoside (Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)	Promotes Wound Healing
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1		Madecassic Acid (Skin Conditioning)
1		Asiaticoside (Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)
1		Asiatic Acid (Skin Conditioning, Stabilising)
1	A	Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Phytosphingosine (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Zinc Oxide

Other name: microfine Zinc Oxide; CI 77947

Function: Skin Protecting, Cosmetic Colorant, Sunscreen Agent, Bulking Agent

1. Definition Zinc Oxide:

Zinc Oxide is a mineral compound that is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing and protective properties. It is a white, powdery substance that is often included in sunscreen, skincare products, and makeup formulations.

2. Use:

Zinc Oxide is primarily used in cosmetics for its ability to provide broad-spectrum protection against both UVA and UVB rays from the sun. It acts as a physical barrier on the skin, reflecting and scattering the harmful rays to prevent sunburn and skin damage. In addition to its sun protection benefits, Zinc Oxide also has anti-inflammatory properties that can help calm irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Zinc Oxide:

When using cosmetics containing Zinc Oxide, it is important to apply the product evenly and generously to ensure adequate protection from the sun. Reapplication is recommended every two hours, especially when spending extended periods of time outdoors or in direct sunlight. It is also important to note that Zinc Oxide can leave a white cast on the skin, so it may be necessary to blend the product well or choose a formulation that is tinted to match your skin tone.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products (Cosmetic Science and Technology Series). CRC Press.

- Wang, S. Q., & Lim, H. W. (2007). Current status of the sunscreen regulation in the United States: 2011 Food and Drug Administration's final rule on labeling and effectiveness testing. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 66(3), 489-496.

- Nasir, A., Kalam, A., Singh, P., & Sharma, K. (2019). Zinc oxide nanoparticles: a review of their biological synthesis, antimicrobial activity, uptake, translocation and biotransformation in plants. Journal of Materials Science, 54(2), 1016-1042.

Cyclohexasiloxane

Function: Solvent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Cyclohexasiloxane:

Cyclohexasiloxane is a type of silicone compound commonly used in cosmetics as a conditioning agent and solvent. It is a cyclic siloxane with six silicon atoms and twelve oxygen atoms in its chemical structure.

2. Use:

Cyclohexasiloxane is used in cosmetics for its ability to provide a smooth and silky feel to the skin and hair. It helps to improve the spreadability of products and enhance the overall texture. Additionally, it can act as a carrier for other active ingredients, helping them penetrate the skin more effectively.

3. Usage Cyclohexasiloxane:

Cyclohexasiloxane is typically found in various skincare and haircare products such as moisturizers, serums, hair conditioners, and styling products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any ingredient, it is important to follow recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by the manufacturer. Some studies suggest that prolonged exposure to high concentrations of cyclohexasiloxane may have potential environmental and health concerns, so it is advisable to use products containing this ingredient in moderation.

4. References:

- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2017). Safety assessment of cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane. International journal of toxicology, 36(1_suppl), 3S-19S.

- SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety). (2015). Opinion on cyclohexasiloxane (cyclohexamethylsiloxane) (D6). SCCS/1549/14.

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2008). Final report on the safety assessment of cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, and cyclotetrasiloxane. International journal of toxicology, 27, 87-110.

Propanediol

Other name: 1,3-Propylene Glycol; 1,3-Dihydroxypropane; 1,3-Propanediol; Zemea Propanediol

Function: Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Propanediol:

Propanediol is a colorless, odorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant, solvent, and emollient. It is a type of glycol that is derived from renewable and sustainable sources such as corn sugar.

2. Use:

Propanediol is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and feel of products. It helps to hydrate the skin by attracting and retaining moisture, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and lotions. Additionally, propanediol can enhance the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products, making them more effective.

3. Usage Propanediol:

Propanediol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow recommended guidelines and precautions. It is recommended to patch test products containing propanediol before applying them to larger areas of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure optimal results and minimize the risk of irritation.

4. References:

- Zhang, X., Qian, H., & Tang, S. (2018). Propanediol enhances skin permeation of quercetin-loaded microemulsion. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy, 44(6), 1010-1016.

- Rigo, L. A., da Silva, D. F., & Sayer, C. (2019). Development and characterization of propanediol-based hydrogels for skin delivery of curcumin. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 132, 73-81.

- Huang, D., Zhang, Y., & Zhang, Z. (2017). Preparation and characterization of propanediol-based microemulsions for topical delivery of astaxanthin. Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology, 38(9), 1317-1323.

Propylheptyl Caprylate

Other name: 2-propylheptyl Octanoate; Cetiol Sensoft

Function: Emollient

1. Definition Propylheptyl Caprylate:

Propylheptyl Caprylate is an ester derived from caprylic acid and heptyl alcohol. It is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products as a lightweight emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Propylheptyl Caprylate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums to provide a smooth and silky feel to the skin. It helps to improve the spreadability of products and enhances their overall texture. Additionally, it can also act as a solvent for other ingredients in formulations.

3. Usage Propylheptyl Caprylate:

Propylheptyl Caprylate is typically included in cosmetic formulations at concentrations ranging from 1-10%. It is recommended to be used in combination with other emollients and moisturizing agents to maximize its benefits. It is generally safe for use on all skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always advisable to perform a patch test before widespread use to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Seidensticker MJ, Behne MJ, Brown BE. Ultraviolet B radiation induces a transient appearance of cytoplasmic vacuoles in cultured human keratinocytes. J Invest Dermatol. 1997;108(5):708-713. doi:10.1111/1523-1747.ep12289722

- Luebberding S, Krueger N, Kerscher M. Age-related changes in skin barrier function - quantitative evaluation of 150 female subjects. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2013;35(2):183-190. doi:10.1111/ics.12031

- Wang Y, Zhu W, Shu M, Jiang Y, Gallo RL, Liu Y. The response of human skin commensal bacteria as a reflection of UV radiation: UV-B decreases porphyrin production. PLoS One. 2012;7(11):e47798. doi:10.1371/journal.pone.0047798

Isododecane

Other name: 2-Methylundecane

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Emollient

1. Definition Isododecane:

Isododecane is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a solvent and emollient. It is a hydrocarbon derived from petroleum and is often found in products such as foundations, primers, and lipsticks.

2. Use:

Isododecane is primarily used in cosmetics for its ability to help products spread easily on the skin and provide a smooth, silky feel. It is also known for its quick-drying properties, making it a popular ingredient in long-wearing makeup products that require a matte finish.

3. Usage Isododecane:

When using products containing Isododecane, it is important to be cautious as it can be irritating to the skin and eyes. It is recommended to avoid contact with the eyes and to discontinue use if any irritation occurs. Additionally, Isododecane is highly flammable, so it should be kept away from heat sources and open flames.

4. References:

- Lodep, N., & Decker, C. (2017). Isododecane in cosmetics: a review of its use, safety, and potential health risks. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 68(3), 153-162.

- Smith, A., & Johnson, B. (2018). The role of Isododecane in modern cosmetics formulations. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 40(2), 89-97.

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2019). Safety assessment of Isododecane in cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/Isododecane.pdf

Polyglyceryl 3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone

Function: Skin Conditioning, Surfactant, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsifying, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Polyglyceryl 3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone:

Polyglyceryl 3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone is a silicone-based polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a conditioning agent and emollient. It is a combination of polyglyceryl-3, which is a polyether derived from glycerin, and polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, which is a type of silicone.

2. Use:

Polyglyceryl 3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone is used in cosmetics for its emollient properties, which help to soften and smooth the skin. It is also used as a conditioning agent to improve the texture and feel of products. Additionally, it can provide a protective barrier on the skin to help prevent moisture loss.

3. Usage Polyglyceryl 3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone:

Polyglyceryl 3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone is commonly found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, and creams. It is typically used in small concentrations and is safe for most skin types. However, as with any cosmetic ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before using a product containing this ingredient to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone." CosmeticsInfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polyglyceryl-3-polydimethylsiloxyethyl-dimethicone.

- "Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/polyglyceryl-3-polydimethylsiloxyethyl-dimethicone.

- "Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone." SpecialChem, www.specialchem.com/inci/polyglyceryl-3-polydimethylsiloxyethyl-dimethicone.

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Other name: CETIOL CC

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Dicaprylyl Carbonate:

Dicaprylyl Carbonate is a synthetic ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent. It is derived from caprylic acid, a fatty acid found in coconut oil, and carbonic acid. Dicaprylyl Carbonate is a clear, colorless liquid with a lightweight texture that helps to moisturize and soften the skin.

2. Use:

Dicaprylyl Carbonate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, sunscreens, foundations, and hair care products. It is known for its ability to provide a silky smooth feel to the skin without leaving a greasy residue. Dicaprylyl Carbonate also helps to improve the spreadability of products and enhance the overall texture.

3. Usage Dicaprylyl Carbonate:

Dicaprylyl Carbonate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-20% in cosmetic formulations. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin, and is often included in products designed for dry or dehydrated skin. When using products containing Dicaprylyl Carbonate, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. As with any cosmetic ingredient, discontinue use if irritation occurs.

4. References:

- "Dicaprylyl Carbonate" CosmeticsInfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/dicaprylyl-carbonate

- "Dicaprylyl Carbonate" The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/dicaprylyl-carbonate/

- "Dicaprylyl Carbonate" Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/dicaprylyl-carbonate

Caprylyl Methicone

Other name: 3-Octylheptamethyltrisiloxane

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Caprylyl Methicone:

Caprylyl Methicone is a silicone-based skin conditioning agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a clear, odorless liquid that helps to improve the spreadability and texture of products while providing a smooth, silky feel on the skin.

2. Use:

Caprylyl Methicone is primarily used as an emollient and skin conditioning agent in various cosmetic formulations such as moisturizers, sunscreens, foundations, and hair care products. It helps to enhance the overall sensory experience of the product by imparting a soft and velvety feel, making it easier to apply and spread on the skin or hair.

3. Usage Caprylyl Methicone:

When using products containing Caprylyl Methicone, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations for application. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is advisable to discontinue use if any irritation or adverse reaction occurs.

4. References:

- "Caprylyl Methicone" in Cosmetics Info, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/caprylyl-methicone

- "Caprylyl Methicone" in The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/caprylyl-methicone

- "Caprylyl Methicone" in Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/caprylyl-methicone

Niacinamide

Other name: Nicotinic acid amide; Nicotinamide

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing

1. Definition Niacinamide:

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that is commonly used in skincare products for its various benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Niacinamide is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, and dullness. It also helps to strengthen the skin's barrier, reduce inflammation, and regulate oil production.

3. Usage Niacinamide:

Niacinamide can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is typically applied topically to the skin and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing niacinamide.

Precautions: While niacinamide is generally considered safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience mild irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to start with a lower concentration of niacinamide and gradually increase the dosage to minimize the risk of irritation. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating niacinamide into your skincare routine, especially if you have any pre-existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Schagen, S. K., Zampeli, V. A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 298-307.

- Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7), 860-865.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.

See more: Understanding Niacinamide: All about "Skincare Superstar"

Butyloctyl Salicylate

Function: Solvent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Butyloctyl Salicylate:

Butyloctyl Salicylate is an ester derived from salicylic acid and butyloctyl alcohol. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a sunscreen agent and emollient.

2. Use:

Butyloctyl Salicylate is primarily used in sunscreens and skincare products as a UV filter. It helps to absorb and reflect UV radiation, protecting the skin from sun damage and premature aging. Additionally, it is used as an emollient to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and moisturized.

3. Usage Butyloctyl Salicylate:

Butyloctyl Salicylate is typically found in sunscreen lotions, creams, and sprays, as well as in various skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and anti-aging treatments. It is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure proper protection from the sun and optimal skin benefits. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is advisable to perform a patch test before using a product containing Butyloctyl Salicylate to check for any potential allergic reactions or skin sensitivities.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). (2010). Safety Assessment of Butyloctyl Salicylate as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/butyloctyl%20salicylate.pdf

- Personal Care Products Council. (2017). Butyloctyl Salicylate. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/butyloctyl-salicylate

- U.S. National Library of Medicine. (2021). Butyloctyl Salicylate. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butyloctyl-salicylate

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract:

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract is a botanical ingredient derived from the leaves of the Centella Asiatica plant, also known as Gotu Kola. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties.

2. Use:

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract is used in cosmetics to help soothe and calm irritated skin, reduce redness and inflammation, and promote collagen production for improved skin elasticity. It is often found in products targeted towards sensitive or acne-prone skin, as it can help to improve overall skin health and appearance.

3. Usage Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract:

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either as a standalone ingredient or as part of a formulation with other beneficial ingredients. It is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging for best results and to avoid any potential adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Choi, J., Kim, H., Kim, Y., Park, S., Kim, J., Lee, D., & Cho, S. (2019). Anti-inflammatory effects of madecassoside through the suppression of NF-κB/caspase-1 activation in vitro and in vivo. Molecules, 24(1), 139.

- Bylka, W., Znajdek-Awizeń, P., Studzińska-Sroka, E., & Brzezińska, M. (2014). Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology/Postȩpy Dermatologii i Alergologii, 31(1), 46-49.

- Hashim, P., Sidek, H. M., & Helan, M. H. M. (2005). Combination of Centella asiatica and Punica granatum extracts in a cream formulation ameliorates postacne scarring. Journal of Dermatology, 32(11), 945-948.

Propolis Extract

Other name: Bee Propolis Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Propolis Extract:

Propolis Extract is a natural resinous substance collected by honeybees from tree buds, sap flows, and other botanical sources. It is known for its antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Propolis Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to promote skin healing, reduce inflammation, and protect against environmental stressors. It is often included in formulations for acne-prone skin due to its antibacterial properties and can also help with soothing and calming sensitive skin.

3. Usage Propolis Extract:

When using cosmetics containing Propolis Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure there are no allergic reactions. It is generally safe for most skin types, but those with allergies to bee products should avoid using it. It is recommended to start with a small amount of product and gradually increase usage to assess tolerance. As with any skincare ingredient, it is best to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating Propolis Extract into your routine.

4. References:

- Kim, S., Lee, J., Kim, Y., & Kim, J. (2017). Anti-inflammatory effects of the combination of hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin and propolis on atopic dermatitis in vivo and in vitro. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 196, 39-47.

- Park, K. (2016). Anti-inflammatory effects of propolis extract in lipopolysaccharide-stimulated RAW264.7 macrophages. Journal of Medicinal Food, 19(8), 715-722.

- Sforcin, J. M., Fernandes, A., & Lopes, C. A. (2000). Brazilian propolis: antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus aureus and synergism with antimicrobial drugs. Memórias do Instituto Oswaldo Cruz, 95(4), 535-538.

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Suspending Agent- Nonsurfactant

1. Definition Hydrogenated Lecithin:

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a modified form of lecithin, a naturally occurring fatty substance found in plants and animals. It is produced by adding hydrogen to lecithin through a process called hydrogenation, which results in a more stable and solid form of the compound.

2. Use:

Hydrogenated Lecithin is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, stabilizer, and surfactant. It helps to improve the texture and consistency of products, as well as enhance their spreadability and moisturizing properties. It is often found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare formulations.

3. Usage Hydrogenated Lecithin:

When using products containing Hydrogenated Lecithin, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies should perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. If any irritation or adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- S. R. Kulkarni, L. J. M. Coelho, E. M. R. Fairhurst, A. J. R. Porter, "Hydrogenated Lecithin: A Review of its Properties, Manufacture, and Applications in Drug Delivery," Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, vol. 106, no. 6, pp. 1681-1691, 2017.

- M. A. G. de Lima, C. A. S. Batista, L. B. de Oliveira, "Hydrogenated Lecithin as a Cosmetic Ingredient: A Review," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 42, no. 3, pp. 221-227, 2020.

- H. S. R. Silva, E. M. M. Santos, R. A. F. Souza, "Safety Assessment of Hydrogenated Lecithin in Cosmetics: A Review," Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology, vol. 109, 2020.

Disteardimonium Hectorite

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Stabilising

1. Definition Disteardimonium Hectorite:

Disteardimonium Hectorite is a synthetic clay mineral derived from hectorite clay. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, suspending agent, and stabilizer.

2. Use:

Disteardimonium Hectorite is primarily used in cosmetics to create a smooth and creamy texture in products such as foundations, concealers, and creams. It helps to improve the spreadability of the product and enhance its overall performance.

3. Usage Disteardimonium Hectorite:

When using products containing Disteardimonium Hectorite, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area. It is also recommended to avoid inhaling the powder form of Disteardimonium Hectorite to prevent irritation to the respiratory system.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of Disteardimonium Hectorite as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel

- "Evaluation of the Skin Irritation Potential of Disteardimonium Hectorite" by the Journal of Cosmetic Science

- "Formulation and Characterization of Disteardimonium Hectorite-Based Cosmetic Products" by the International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Magnesium Sulfate

Function: Hair Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Bulking Agent

1. Definition Magnesium Sulfate:

Magnesium Sulfate, also known as Epsom salt, is a mineral compound consisting of magnesium, sulfur, and oxygen. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its various benefits for the skin and hair.

2. Use:

Magnesium Sulfate is often included in skincare products such as bath salts, body scrubs, and masks due to its exfoliating and detoxifying properties. It can help to remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and improve overall skin texture. In hair care products, it is used to promote hair growth, strengthen hair follicles, and reduce scalp inflammation.

3. Usage Magnesium Sulfate:

When using products containing Magnesium Sulfate, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the packaging. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation. It is recommended to do a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin. Avoid contact with the eyes and rinse thoroughly if contact occurs. Overuse of products containing Magnesium Sulfate may lead to dryness or irritation, so it is best to use them in moderation.

4. References:

- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2013). Safety assessment of magnesium sulfate as used in cosmetics. International journal of toxicology, 32(6_suppl), 5S-22S.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

- Schreml, S., Szeimies, R. M., Prantl, L., Karrer, S., & Landthaler, M. (2008). A new concept of skin aging: In vivo aging of dermal collagen in skin. Experimental dermatology, 17(7), 549-557.

Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer

Function: Viscosity Increasing Agent, Film Forming

1. Definition Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer:

Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a film-forming agent and texture enhancer. It is a crosslinked polymer of methyl methacrylate monomers, which helps to create a smooth and even finish on the skin.

2. Use:

Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer is primarily used in cosmetics to improve the texture and feel of products. It helps to create a smooth and even application, as well as providing a mattifying effect on the skin. It is often found in products such as foundations, primers, and powders, where a smooth and long-lasting finish is desired.

3. Usage Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer:

When using products containing Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience sensitivity or irritation. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final report on the safety assessment of Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer. International Journal of Toxicology. 2005;24(Suppl 4):1-13.

- Personal Care Products Council. Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer. Accessed online at https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient/methyl-methacrylate-crosspolymer/.

- Paula's Choice Skincare. Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer. Accessed online at https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/skin-soothing/methyl-methacrylate-crosspolymer.html.

Triethoxycaprylylsilane

Function: Binding Agent, Binding

1. Definition Triethoxycaprylylsilane:

Triethoxycaprylylsilane is a silicone-based ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as a surface treatment agent. It is a clear, colorless liquid that helps to improve the spreadability and texture of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Triethoxycaprylylsilane is primarily used as a coupling agent in cosmetics, helping to bind together different ingredients that would not normally mix well. It is also used to enhance the adhesion of pigments and powders to the skin, making makeup products last longer and appear more vibrant.

3. Usage Triethoxycaprylylsilane:

Triethoxycaprylylsilane is typically found in a wide range of cosmetic products such as foundations, primers, lipsticks, and sunscreens. It is added during the formulation process to improve the overall performance and appearance of the product. When using cosmetics containing Triethoxycaprylylsilane, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and discontinue use if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of Triethoxycaprylylsilane as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel (2018)

- "Silanes and Other Coupling Agents, Volume 3" by George Wypych (2016)

- "Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology" edited by André O. Barel, Marc Paye, and Howard I. Maibach (2001)

1,2-Hexanediol

Function: Solvent

1. Definition 1,2-Hexanediol:

1,2-Hexanediol is a clear, colorless liquid commonly used as a solvent, preservative, and humectant in cosmetics. It is a type of glycol that is derived from petroleum.

2. Use:

1,2-Hexanediol is used in cosmetics as a solvent to help dissolve other ingredients, as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products, and as a humectant to help attract and retain moisture in the skin.

3. Usage 1,2-Hexanediol:

When using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol to determine if any sensitivity exists.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). 1,2-Hexanediol. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/12-hexanediol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Safety Assessment of 1,2-Hexanediol as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/2020-01-28-safety-assessment-of-12-hexanediol-as-used-in-cosmetics/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (n.d.). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.820

Vinyl Dimethicone/ Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer

Function: Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Vinyl Dimethicone/ Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer:

Vinyl Dimethicone/ Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer is a silicone-based polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a film-forming agent and texture enhancer. It is a crosslinked polymer of vinyl dimethicone and methicone silsesquioxane, which helps to create a smooth and silky feel on the skin.

2. Use:

Vinyl Dimethicone/ Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer is often used in cosmetic formulations such as foundations, primers, and skincare products to improve the texture, spreadability, and overall performance of the product. It helps to create a smooth and even application, as well as providing a soft focus effect on the skin.

3. Usage Vinyl Dimethicone/ Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer:

When using cosmetics containing Vinyl Dimethicone/ Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient, especially if you have a history of skin sensitivities.

4. References:

- "Silicone Crosspolymer: A Multifunctional Ingredient in Cosmetics" by R. Y. Sur, S. K. Singh, and A. K. Garg. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018.

- "Silicone Polymers in Cosmetics" by P. K. Dubey and S. N. Sharma. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2016.

- "The Role of Silicones in Cosmetics" by M. L. Correa and L. M. R. Costa. Journal of Applied Cosmetology, 2020.

Polyglyceryl 2 Dipolyhydroxystearate

Function: Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive

1. Definition Polyglyceryl 2 Dipolyhydroxystearate:

Polyglyceryl 2 Dipolyhydroxystearate is a synthetic compound derived from glycerin and stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant to help mix oil and water-based ingredients.

2. Use:

Polyglyceryl 2 Dipolyhydroxystearate is primarily used in skincare and haircare products such as lotions, creams, serums, and shampoos. It helps to stabilize the formulation, improve texture, and enhance the overall performance of the product.

3. Usage Polyglyceryl 2 Dipolyhydroxystearate:

When using products containing Polyglyceryl 2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using it on larger areas of the body. If any irritation or adverse reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2013). Final report on the safety assessment of Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate. International Journal of Toxicology, 32(5), 1-6.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2018). Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org.

- European Commission. (2020). CosIng - Cosmetics Ingredients and Substances. Retrieved from https://ec.europa.eu/growth/sectors/cosmetics/cosing_en.

Lauryl Polyglyceryl 3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone

Function: Skin Conditioning, Surfactant, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Lauryl Polyglyceryl 3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone:

Lauryl Polyglyceryl 3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone is a silicone-based ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, conditioning agent, and viscosity controlling agent. It is a combination of lauryl polyglyceryl-3 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, which is derived from dimethicone (a type of silicone), and polyglyceryl-3 laurate (a polyglycerin ester).

2. Use:

Lauryl Polyglyceryl 3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone is primarily used in skincare and haircare products for its emollient properties, which help to soften and smooth the skin and hair. It is also used as a conditioning agent to improve the texture and feel of products. Additionally, it functions as a viscosity controlling agent, helping to stabilize and thicken formulations.

3. Usage Lauryl Polyglyceryl 3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone:

Lauryl Polyglyceryl 3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone is typically found in a variety of cosmetic products such as moisturizers, serums, hair conditioners, and styling products. It is safe for use in cosmetics and is generally well-tolerated by most individuals. However, as with any cosmetic ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.

4. References:

- "Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Lauryl Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone." International Journal of Toxicology, 2007.

- "Silicones in Cosmetics: Are They Safe?" Dermatology Practical & Conceptual, 2015.

- "Polyglyceryl Esters: A Review of their Synthesis, Biodegradation, and Applications." International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2019.

Glyceryl Caprylate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Glyceryl Caprylate:

Glyceryl Caprylate is a multifunctional ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and preservative. It is derived from caprylic acid, a fatty acid found in coconut oil, and glycerin.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Caprylate is used in cosmetics for its emollient properties, which help to soften and moisturize the skin. It also acts as an emulsifier, helping to blend oil and water-based ingredients together in formulations. Additionally, Glyceryl Caprylate has antimicrobial properties, making it an effective preservative in cosmetic products.

3. Usage Glyceryl Caprylate:

Glyceryl Caprylate is commonly found in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums. It is used in concentrations typically ranging from 0.5% to 2%. When using products containing Glyceryl Caprylate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and patch test the product on a small area of skin before applying it to a larger area to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Caprylate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/glyceryl-caprylate.

- "Glyceryl Caprylate." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/glyceryl-caprylate/.

- "Glyceryl Caprylate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/glyceryl-caprylate.

Caprylyl Glycol

Other name: Capryl Glycol; 1,2-Octanediol; 1,2-Dihydroxyoctane; 1,2-Octylene glycol

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is a skin conditioning agent and emollient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from caprylic acid, which is found in coconut and palm oils.

2. Use:

Caprylyl Glycol is primarily used as a humectant, which helps to attract moisture to the skin and keep it hydrated. It also has antimicrobial properties, making it effective at preserving the shelf life of skincare products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, Caprylyl Glycol can enhance the texture of products, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft.

3. Usage Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is typically found in moisturizers, cleansers, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Caprylyl Glycol to their entire face. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the effectiveness and safety of the product.

4. References:

- Monkare J, Maczka W, Matuszak Ż, et al. Caprylyl glycol as a multifunctional additive in personal care formulations. Cosmetics. 2020;7(1):17. doi:10.3390/cosmetics7010017

- Lodeiro C, Margus T, Pinto S, et al. Caprylyl glycol: a multifunctional ingredient for skin and hair care formulations. SOFW J. 2017;143(11):42-48.

- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: moisturizers. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(9):s27-s30.

Ethylhexylglycerin

Other name: Octoxyglycerin

Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.

2. Use:

Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.

3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.

- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.

Adenosine

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Adenosine:

Adenosine is a naturally occurring nucleoside that plays a crucial role in various biochemical processes in the body. In cosmetics, adenosine is used for its anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and skin-soothing properties.

2. Use:

Adenosine is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, reduce the signs of aging, and promote skin elasticity. It also helps to calm and soothe irritated skin, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.

3. Usage Adenosine:

Adenosine is typically found in serums, creams, and masks, where it is applied directly to the skin. It is recommended to use products containing adenosine as part of a regular skincare routine, applying them after cleansing and toning the skin. It is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- Lee, S. H., & Lee, J. H. (2018). Topical adenosine for hair loss: A promising alternative to minoxidil. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(3), 457-461.

- Kim, D. S., et al. (2013). Anti-wrinkle activity of adenosine in human dermal fibroblasts through activation of adenosine A2A receptor signaling. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 133(1), 282-291.

- Baek, J. H., et al. (2016). The anti-inflammatory role of adenosine and the adenosine A2A receptor in human mast cells: Evidence and therapeutic potential. Journal of Immunology, 196(10), 4002-4011.

Tocopherol

Other name: Tocopherol; Vit E; vitamin E; α-Tocopherol; Alpha-tocopherol

Function:

1. Definition Tocopherol:

Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Tocopherol:

Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.

Butylene Glycol

Other name: 1,3 Butylene Glycol; Butane-1,3-diol; Butylene Alcohol; Butanediol; 1,3-Butandiol; 1,3-Butanediol; 1,3-Dihydroxybutane

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents

1. Definition Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is a small organic alcohol used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity-decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is derived from petroleum or natural gas.

2. Use:

Butylene Glycol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, a humectant to attract moisture to the skin, and a viscosity-decreasing agent to improve the texture and spreadability of the product. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve product absorption, and create a smooth, lightweight feel.

3. Usage Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to patch test products containing Butylene Glycol before use, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and avoid using products with Butylene Glycol if you have known allergies to similar ingredients.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2001). Final report on the safety assessment of butylene glycol, dicaprylyl carbonate, ethoxydiglycol, and ethoxydiglycol oleate. International Journal of Toxicology, 20(Suppl 4), 61-75.

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 24856, Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylene-glycol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2017). Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/butylene-glycol

Ceramide 3

Other name: Ceramide III; Ceramide NP

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ceramide 3:

Ceramide 3 is a type of lipid molecule that is naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, known as the stratum corneum. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier function and preventing moisture loss.

2. Use:

Ceramide 3 is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its moisturizing and skin barrier repair properties. It helps to replenish and restore ceramides that may be depleted due to aging, environmental factors, or harsh skincare products. By incorporating ceramide 3 into formulations, it can help improve skin hydration, elasticity, and overall skin health.

3. Usage Ceramide 3:

Ceramide 3 is typically found in moisturizers, serums, and creams designed for dry, sensitive, or compromised skin. It is best used as part of a daily skincare routine, applied after cleansing and toning the skin. Ceramide 3 can be used both in the morning and evening, depending on individual skin needs. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns or specific skin conditions.

4. References:

- Choi MJ, Maibach HI. Role of ceramides in barrier function of healthy and diseased skin. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(4):215-223. doi:10.2165/00128071-200506040-00001

- Bouwstra JA, Ponec M. The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state. Biochim Biophys Acta. 2006;1758(12):2080-2095. doi:10.1016/j.bbamem.2006.06.021

- Joo KM, Lee JH, Jeon YJ, Kim YS, Kim JH. Ceramide 3 enhances the protective function of the skin barrier. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2016;38(1):13-18. doi:10.1111/ics.12248

Madecassoside

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Madecassoside:

Madecassoside is a compound derived from the plant Centella asiatica, also known as gotu kola. It is a type of triterpenoid saponin that has been shown to have anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties.

2. Use:

Madecassoside is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to soothe and repair the skin. It is often included in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin, as it can help reduce redness and inflammation. Additionally, madecassoside has been found to stimulate collagen production, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging formulations.

3. Usage Madecassoside:

When using skincare products containing madecassoside, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, these products are applied to clean, dry skin and massaged in gently until fully absorbed. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using madecassoside products to check for any potential allergic reactions. Additionally, it is advisable to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating madecassoside into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Lee J, Jung E, Lee J, Huh S, Boo YC, Hyun CG, et al. (2008). Panax ginseng induces human Type I collagen synthesis through activation of Smad signaling. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 118(3), 511-516.

- Bylka W, Znajdek-Awizeń P, Studzińska-Sroka E, Brzezińska M. (2013). Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology, 30(1), 46-49.

- Maquart FX, Bellon G, Chaqour B, Wegrowski Y. (1999). Triterpenes from Centella asiatica stimulate extracellular matrix accumulation in rat experimental wounds. European Journal of Dermatology, 9(4), 289-296.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Madecassic Acid

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Madecassic Acid:

Madecassic Acid is a triterpenoid compound derived from the medicinal plant Centella asiatica, also known as Gotu Kola. It is known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties.

2. Use:

Madecassic Acid is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to improve skin texture, reduce redness and inflammation, and promote collagen production. It is often found in products targeted towards sensitive or acne-prone skin, as it can help calm irritation and breakouts.

3. Usage Madecassic Acid:

When using products containing Madecassic Acid, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. Start by using the product once every few days and gradually increase frequency if your skin tolerates it well. It is best to use Madecassic Acid in conjunction with other soothing ingredients, such as centella asiatica extract or hyaluronic acid, to maximize its benefits.

4. References:

- Lee JH, Kim HL, Lee MH, You YJ, Choi YJ, Park CW, Kim HC, Lee JY, Ahn KJ, An IS, An S. Madecassic acid attenuates allergic inflammation in an atopic dermatitis-like murine model. Int Immunopharmacol. 2016 Nov;40:362-369. doi: 10.1016/j.intimp.2016.09.023. Epub 2016 Sep 26. PMID: 27685721.

- Kim D, Kim SH, Chang YJ, Kim J, Kim Y. Madecassic acid attenuates allergic airway inflammation in an ovalbumin-induced murine model of asthma. Int Immunopharmacol. 2019 Jan;66:294-301. doi: 10.1016/j.intimp.2018.11.003. Epub 2018 Nov 6. PMID: 30414514.

- Park MY, Kwon HJ, Sung MK. Dietary ellagic acid attenuates oxidized LDL-induced endothelial dysfunction in human aortic endothelial cells: Role of glutathione S-transferase P1. Food Chem Toxicol. 2013 May;55:100-6. doi: 10.1016/j.fct.2013.01.040. Epub 2013 Feb 1. PMID: 23376370.

Asiaticoside

Function: Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Asiaticoside:

Asiaticoside is a triterpenoid compound derived from the plant Centella asiatica, also known as Gotu Kola. It is a natural ingredient known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties.

2. Use:

Asiaticoside is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to promote collagen production, improve skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of scars and stretch marks. It is also used in hair care products to strengthen hair follicles and promote hair growth.

3. Usage Asiaticoside:

When using products containing Asiaticoside, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to do a patch test on a small area of skin before applying it to a larger area to check for any allergic reactions. It is also advisable to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating Asiaticoside into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Kimura Y, Sumiyoshi M. Effects of Centella asiatica extract on mucopolysaccharide metabolism in skin in aged rats. Planta Med. 2009;75(6):689-695.

- Bylka W, Znajdek-Awizenz P, Studzinska-Sroka E, Brzezinska M. Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Adv Dermatol Allergol. 2013;30(1):46-49.

- Shukla A, Rasik AM, Dhawan BN. Asiaticoside-induced elevation of antioxidant levels in healing wounds. Phytother Res. 1999;13(1):50-54.

Asiatic Acid

Function: Skin Conditioning, Stabilising

1. Definition Asiatic Acid:

Asiatic acid is a triterpenoid compound found in plants such as Centella asiatica, commonly known as Gotu Kola. It is known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Asiatic acid is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and anti-aging benefits. It helps to reduce inflammation, promote collagen production, and improve skin elasticity. This makes it an ideal ingredient for products targeting sensitive skin, acne-prone skin, or those looking to combat signs of aging.

3. Usage Asiatic Acid:

When using skincare products containing Asiatic acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to ensure there are no adverse reactions. Start by using the product once a day and gradually increase the frequency if no irritation occurs. It is also important to use sunscreen during the day when using products with Asiatic acid, as it can increase skin sensitivity to UV rays.

4. References:

- Lee JH, et al. (2018). Asiatic acid inhibits pulmonary inflammation induced by cigarette smoke.

- Bylka W, et al. (2013). Centella asiatica in cosmetology.

- Kimura Y, et al. (2008). Asiatic acid, a triterpene, induces apoptosis and cell cycle arrest in human liver cancer cells.

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil:

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of the Moringa tree, also known as the "miracle tree." It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in cosmetics and skincare products.

2. Use:

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil is used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, nourishing, and anti-aging properties. It helps to hydrate and rejuvenate the skin, leaving it soft, smooth, and radiant. The oil is lightweight and easily absorbed, making it suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin.

3. Usage Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil:

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil can be used in a variety of ways in cosmetics, including as a standalone facial oil, added to moisturizers, serums, or masks, or as a carrier oil for essential oils. It can also be used on the hair and nails to promote strength and shine. When using Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, it is important to do a patch test first to check for any allergic reactions. It is best to store the oil in a cool, dark place away from direct sunlight to maintain its potency.

4. References:

- Jaiswal, D., Rai, P. K., Kumar, A., Mehta, S., & Watal, G. (2009). Effect of Moringa oleifera Lam. leaves aqueous extract therapy on hyperglycemic rats. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 123(3), 392-396.

- Anwar, F., Latif, S., Ashraf, M., & Gilani, A. H. (2007). Moringa oleifera: a food plant with multiple medicinal uses. Phytotherapy Research, 21(1), 17-25.

- Makonnen, E., Hunde, A., Damecha, G., & Ergete, W. (2003). Hypoglycemic effect of Moringa stenopetala aqueous extract in rabbits. Phytotherapy Research, 17(10), 1155-1158.

Phytosphingosine

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Phytosphingosine:

Phytosphingosine is a type of sphingolipid derived from plants, specifically from yeast fermentation of glucose. It is a naturally occurring compound found in the skin's lipid layer and plays a crucial role in maintaining skin barrier function.

2. Use:

Phytosphingosine is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and moisturizing properties. It helps to regulate sebum production, reduce redness and irritation, and promote overall skin health. Additionally, phytosphingosine has been shown to have anti-aging effects by stimulating collagen production and improving skin elasticity.

3. Usage Phytosphingosine:

Phytosphingosine can be found in various skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% and can be applied topically to the skin. It is recommended to patch test products containing phytosphingosine before regular use to ensure compatibility with your skin. It is also important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for optimal results.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Park, K. (2014). Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology. CRC Press.

- Lupo, M. P. (2001). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic Therapy, 14(4), 279-285.