Full ingredients list Ole Henriksen PHAT Glow Facial

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1	A	Kaolin (Skin Protecting, Opacifying, Abrasive, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Anticaking Agent, Slip Modifier)
1		Gluconolactone (Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant)	Anti Aging
1	A	Gluconic Acid (Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent)	Anti Aging
1	B	Polyglyceryl 10 Stearate (Skin Conditioning, Surfactant, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
2		Propanediol (Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1 2	A	Bentonite (Opacifying, Viscosity Controlling, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Suspending Agent -Nonsurfactant)
1	A	Cetearyl Alcohol (Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous)
1		Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil (Skin Conditioning, Moisturising)
1		Betula Alba Juice (Tonic, Astringent)
1	A	Glyceryl Stearate (Emollient, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1 2		Polyacrylate 13 (Film Forming)
1 4	B	Sodium Hydroxide (Denaturant , pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)
8		Fragrance (Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant)	Good for dry skin
1	A	Pullulan (Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming)
1	A	Polyisobutene (Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming)
2 4	A	Phenoxyethanol (Fragrance, Preservative)
1	A	Caprylyl Glycol (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Xanthan Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming)
2	A	Potassium Sorbate (Fragrance, Preservative)
3	B	Polysorbate 20 (Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	1,2-Hexanediol (Solvent)
1	A	Sorbitan Isostearate (Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Tocopherol	Good for dry skin Anti Aging
1	A	Biotin (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antiseborrhoeic)
1	A	Hyaluronic Acid (Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Moisturising)	Promotes Wound Healing
1	A	Niacinamide (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing)	Anti Aging Brightening
1	A	Panthenol (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)	Good for dry skin Promotes Wound Healing
2	B	Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract (Skin Conditioning, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Occlusive)	Good for sensitive skin Good for dry skin
1 2	B	Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract	Bad for sensitive skin Good for oily skin
5		Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract (Perfuming, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)	Brightening Acne fighting
1		Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract (Skin Conditioning, Moisturising)
1		Santalum Album (Sandalwood) Extract (Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive)
1		Eriophorum Spissum Flower/Stem Extract
3	A	Chlorphenesin (Preservative, Antimicrobial, Cosmetic Biocide)
1		Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate (Antimicrobial, Antidandruff Agent)
2	A	Sorbic Acid (Fragrance, Preservative)
2		Iron Oxides (Colorant, Cosmetic Colorant)
3 5		Citral (Masking, Fragrance, Flavoring Agent)	Allergen
4 5		Limonene (Solvent, Perfuming, Deodorant)	Allergen
3		Linalool (Masking, Deodorant, Fragrance)	Allergen

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Kaolin

Other name: Kaolinite; China clay; Aluminum Silica; White Clay; Kaolin Clay

Function: Skin Protecting, Opacifying, Abrasive, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Anticaking Agent, Slip Modifier

1. Definition Kaolin:

Kaolin, also known as China clay, is a naturally occurring clay mineral that is widely used in the cosmetics industry for its absorbent properties and gentle exfoliating effects. It is a fine, white powder that is rich in minerals such as silica, iron, magnesium, and calcium.

2. Use:

Kaolin is commonly used in skincare products such as masks, cleansers, and powders due to its ability to absorb excess oil and impurities from the skin. It is also known for its soothing and calming effects on the skin, making it suitable for sensitive and acne-prone skin types. Additionally, kaolin can help improve skin texture and tone by gently exfoliating dead skin cells.

3. Usage Kaolin:

Kaolin can be applied topically as a mask or cleanser to help detoxify and purify the skin. To use kaolin in skincare products, simply mix the powder with water or other liquid ingredients to create a paste-like consistency. Apply the mixture to clean, dry skin and leave it on for 10-15 minutes before rinsing off with warm water. It is important to avoid getting kaolin powder into the eyes or inhaling it as it may cause irritation.

4. References:

- Dweck, A. C. (2012). Formulating with kaolin. Personal Care Magazine, 9(3), 25-28.

- Williams, L. B., & Haydel, S. E. (2010). Evaluation of the medicinal use of clay minerals as antibacterial agents. International Geology Review, 52(7/8), 745-770.

- Lin, Y. C., & Lin, J. H. (2008). Kaolin and its industrial uses. Journal of the Chinese Ceramic Society, 36(6), 805-811.

Gluconolactone

Other name: Glucono delta-lactone; D-glucono-1,5-lactone

Function: Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant

1. Definition Gluconolactone:

Gluconolactone is a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that is derived from natural sources such as fruits and honey. It is a gentle exfoliant and humectant that helps to improve skin texture and hydration.

2. Use:

Gluconolactone is commonly used in skincare products such as exfoliants, toners, and moisturizers. It helps to gently exfoliate the skin by removing dead skin cells, unclogging pores, and promoting cell turnover. Additionally, it has hydrating properties that help to attract and retain moisture, making it suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin.

3. Usage Gluconolactone:

When using skincare products containing Gluconolactone, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to start with a lower concentration to assess skin tolerance and gradually increase the frequency of use as needed. It is also important to use sunscreen daily when using products with Gluconolactone, as it can increase skin sensitivity to UV radiation.

4. References:

- Bhatia, A., & Maisuria, V. (2016). Polyhydroxy acids: A new generation of hydroxy acids. International Journal of Research in Cosmetic Science, 6(1), 1-5.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.

- Obagi, Z. E., & Obagi, S. (2003). Chemical peeling and aging skin. Journal of Geriatric Dermatology, 11(2), 67-71.

Gluconic Acid

Function: Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Gluconic Acid:

Gluconic acid is a naturally occurring organic acid derived from glucose through a fermentation process. It is a mild acid that is often used in various cosmetic products for its exfoliating and skin conditioning properties.

2. Use:

Gluconic acid is commonly used in skincare products such as exfoliants, toners, and moisturizers. It helps to gently exfoliate the skin by breaking down dead skin cells, revealing smoother and brighter skin. Additionally, gluconic acid is known for its ability to improve skin hydration and texture, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging and hydrating formulations.

3. Usage Gluconic Acid:

When using skincare products containing gluconic acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is recommended to start with a lower concentration of gluconic acid to allow your skin to acclimate to the ingredient. It is also important to wear sunscreen during the day when using products with gluconic acid, as it can increase sensitivity to the sun.

4. References:

- S. Kaur, G. K. Dhillon, and A. Kumar, "Gluconic acid: Properties, applications and microbial production," Biotechnology Advances, vol. 25, no. 2, pp. 93-112, 2007.

- M. A. Nazzaro, M. M. De Rosa, and A. G. T. Pinto, "Gluconic acid as a multifunctional ingredient in the food industry," Food Science and Technology, vol. 37, no. 1, pp. 1-8, 2017.

- G. S. Kulkarni and S. S. Kaware, "Gluconic acid: Production, properties, applications and microbial fermentation," International Journal of Microbial Resource Technology, vol. 1, no. 1, pp. 1-9, 2012.

Polyglyceryl 10 Stearate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Surfactant, Emulsifying

1. Definition Polyglyceryl 10 Stearate:

Polyglyceryl 10 Stearate is a polyglycerol ester of stearic acid, which is a natural fatty acid derived from vegetable oils. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant.

2. Use:

Polyglyceryl 10 Stearate is used in cosmetics to stabilize and emulsify formulations, helping to blend together ingredients that would otherwise separate. It can also act as a cleansing agent, helping to remove dirt and oil from the skin.

3. Usage Polyglyceryl 10 Stearate:

Polyglyceryl 10 Stearate is typically found in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and cleansers. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient.

Precautions: While Polyglyceryl 10 Stearate is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience mild irritation or allergic reactions. It is always recommended to read product labels and consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns about using products containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- "Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate" - Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polyglyceryl-10-stearate

- "Polyglyceryl Stearates" - Personal Care Council, www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/polyglyceryl-stearates

- "Polyglyceryl Stearate" - Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/polyglyceryl-stearate

Propanediol

Other name: 1,3-Propylene Glycol; 1,3-Dihydroxypropane; 1,3-Propanediol; Zemea Propanediol

Function: Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Propanediol:

Propanediol is a colorless, odorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant, solvent, and emollient. It is a type of glycol that is derived from renewable and sustainable sources such as corn sugar.

2. Use:

Propanediol is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and feel of products. It helps to hydrate the skin by attracting and retaining moisture, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and lotions. Additionally, propanediol can enhance the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products, making them more effective.

3. Usage Propanediol:

Propanediol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow recommended guidelines and precautions. It is recommended to patch test products containing propanediol before applying them to larger areas of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure optimal results and minimize the risk of irritation.

4. References:

- Zhang, X., Qian, H., & Tang, S. (2018). Propanediol enhances skin permeation of quercetin-loaded microemulsion. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy, 44(6), 1010-1016.

- Rigo, L. A., da Silva, D. F., & Sayer, C. (2019). Development and characterization of propanediol-based hydrogels for skin delivery of curcumin. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 132, 73-81.

- Huang, D., Zhang, Y., & Zhang, Z. (2017). Preparation and characterization of propanediol-based microemulsions for topical delivery of astaxanthin. Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology, 38(9), 1317-1323.

Bentonite

Other name: Bentonite Clay; Gelwhite L

Function: Opacifying, Viscosity Controlling, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Suspending Agent -Nonsurfactant

1. Definition Bentonite:

Bentonite is a type of clay derived from volcanic ash deposits and is known for its ability to absorb and remove toxins, impurities, and excess oil from the skin. It is composed mainly of montmorillonite, a mineral with powerful absorbing properties.

2. Use:

Bentonite is commonly used in cosmetics for its purifying and detoxifying properties. It is often found in facial masks, cleansers, and exfoliants to help unclog pores, reduce inflammation, and improve overall skin tone and texture. Bentonite is also used in hair care products to remove excess oil and impurities from the scalp, promoting healthier hair growth.

3. Usage Bentonite:

When using bentonite in cosmetics, it is important to mix it with water or other liquid ingredients to form a paste before applying it to the skin or hair. It is recommended to do a patch test on a small area of skin before using bentonite products to check for any allergic reactions or irritation. Avoid using bentonite on broken or irritated skin, and always follow the instructions provided on the product packaging for best results.

4. References:

- Chauhan, A., & Chauhan, P. (2019). Bentonite Clay as a Natural Remedy: A Brief Review. Journal of Traditional and Complementary Medicine, 9(3), 184-189.

- Williams, L. B., & Haydel, S. E. (2010). Evaluation of the medicinal use of clay minerals as antibacterial agents. International Geology Review, 52(7/8), 745-770.

- Singh, M., & Singh, S. (2017). Bentonite Clay as a Natural Remedy: A Review. Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemistry, 6(1), 295-299.

Cetearyl Alcohol

Other name: Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol; Cetostearyl Alcohol; C16-18 Alcohols

Function: Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous

1. Definition Cetearyl Alcohol:

Cetearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients.

2. Use:

Cetearyl Alcohol is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and hair conditioners. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, as well as improve the texture and consistency of the product. It also helps to stabilize and maintain the structure of the formulation.

3. Usage Cetearyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Cetearyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when using products with Cetearyl Alcohol, so it is recommended to do a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions for use provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective application.

4. References:

- "Cetearyl Alcohol" by Paula Begoun, Cosmetics Cop, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetearyl-alcohol.html

- "Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics: Safe or Harmful?" by Dr. Anvita Arora, Dermatologist, https://www.dranvitaarora.com/cetearyl-alcohol-in-cosmetics-safe-or-harmful/

- "The Role of Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/cetearylcir.pdf

Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning, Moisturising

1. Definition Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil:

Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil, also known as chia seed oil, is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of the chia plant. It is rich in omega-3 fatty acids, antioxidants, and vitamins, making it a popular ingredient in cosmetics for its moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil is commonly used in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams due to its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin. It is also used in hair care products to promote healthy hair growth and add shine to the hair.

3. Usage Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil:

When using Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil in cosmetics, it is important to perform a patch test before applying it to the skin to check for any allergic reactions. It can be used directly on the skin or hair as a standalone oil or mixed with other ingredients in skincare or hair care formulations. It is best to store the oil in a cool, dark place away from direct sunlight to prevent oxidation.

4. References:

- Coelho, S. (2018). Chia Seed Oil: A Comprehensive Review. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 9(10), 4004-4011.

- Gómez-Caravaca, A. M., Segura-Carretero, A., & Fernández-Gutiérrez, A. (2011). Chia Seed (Salvia Hispanica): An Ancient Grain and a New Functional Food. Food Reviews International, 27(4), 394-410.

- Ixtaina, V. Y., Nolasco, S. M., & Tomás, M. C. (2008). Physical properties of chia (Salvia Hispanica L.) seeds. Industrial Crops and Products, 28(3), 286-293.

Betula Alba Juice

Function: Tonic, Astringent

1. Definition Betula Alba Juice:

Betula Alba Juice, also known as birch juice, is a natural extract obtained from the sap of the Betula Alba tree. This tree is native to Europe and parts of Asia and has been used for centuries in traditional medicine for its various health benefits.

2. Use:

Betula Alba Juice is commonly used in cosmetics for its hydrating, soothing, and anti-inflammatory properties. It is rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants that help to nourish and protect the skin. The juice is often included in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and masks to help improve the overall health and appearance of the skin.

3. Usage Betula Alba Juice:

When using cosmetics containing Betula Alba Juice, it is important to follow the product instructions carefully. Apply the product to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. Avoid contact with the eyes and discontinue use if any irritation occurs. It is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Choi, H. S., Kim, S. L., Kim, J. H., & Jeong, S. I. (2019). Anti-inflammatory effects of Betula platyphylla var. japonica juice in RAW 264.7 cells. Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition, 48(6), 611-618.

- Kim, J. H., Kim, S. L., Choi, H. S., & Jeong, S. I. (2019). Protective effects of Betula platyphylla var. japonica juice on UVB-induced photoaging in human dermal fibroblasts. Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition, 48(5), 426-433.

- Lee, J. S., Kim, S. L., Kim, J. H., & Jeong, S. I. (2020). Antioxidant and anti-aging effects of Betula platyphylla var. japonica juice in human dermal fibroblasts. Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition, 49(2), 161-168.

Glyceryl Stearate

Function: Emollient, Emulsifying

1. Definition Glyceryl Stearate:

Glyceryl Stearate is a fatty acid derived from glycerin and stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, improve the texture of the product, and stabilize the formulation.

3. Usage Glyceryl Stearate:

When using products containing Glyceryl Stearate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Glyceryl Stearate, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by The Personal Care Products Council

- "Safety Assessment of Glyceryl Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate SE as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by Paula's Choice Skincare

Polyacrylate 13

Function: Film Forming

1. Definition Polyacrylate 13:

Polyacrylate 13 is a water-soluble polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer. It is a type of acrylate polymer that is derived from acrylic acid.

2. Use:

Polyacrylate 13 is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, serums, and gels. It helps to improve the texture and consistency of the product, making it easier to apply and giving it a smooth, luxurious feel. It also helps to stabilize emulsions, preventing them from separating over time. Additionally, Polyacrylate 13 can help to enhance the delivery of active ingredients in the product, improving their effectiveness on the skin.

3. Usage Polyacrylate 13:

When using products containing Polyacrylate 13, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience sensitivity or irritation to the ingredient. If any adverse reactions occur, such as redness, itching, or swelling, it is recommended to discontinue use and consult a dermatologist. It is also important to store products containing Polyacrylate 13 in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight, to prevent degradation of the ingredient.

4. References:

- Jung, S. Y., Kim, H. J., & Kim, J. H. (2016). Safety assessment of polyacrylate-13 as used in cosmetics. International journal of toxicology, 35(1_suppl), 25S-36S.

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21: Polyacrylate 13. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=73.1250

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2012). Safety assessment of polyacrylate-13. Retrieved from https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/polyacrylate-13.pdf

Sodium Hydroxide

Other name: NaOH

Function: Denaturant , pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Sodium Hydroxide:

Sodium Hydroxide, also known as lye or caustic soda, is a highly alkaline compound that is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, emulsifier, and cleansing agent.

2. Use:

Sodium Hydroxide is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, ensuring that the product is within the desired range for optimal skin compatibility. It is also used as an emulsifier to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together, creating stable and uniform products. Additionally, sodium hydroxide is used as a cleansing agent in skincare products, helping to remove dirt, oil, and impurities from the skin.

3. Usage Sodium Hydroxide:

When using products containing sodium hydroxide, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. Avoid direct contact with the eyes, as it can cause irritation or burns. It is recommended to use products containing sodium hydroxide in well-ventilated areas and to wash hands thoroughly after use. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and seek medical advice.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2013). Final report on the safety assessment of sodium hydroxide. International Journal of Toxicology, 32(1), 59S-80S.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2020). Sodium Hydroxide. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/sodium-hydroxide/

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). Sodium Hydroxide. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Sodium-hydroxide

Fragrance

Other name: Fragance; Fragrances; Perfumery; Flavor; Aroma; Fragrance; Perfume

Function: Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant

1. Definition Fragrance:

Fragrance in cosmetics refers to the blend of various aromatic compounds that are added to products to provide a pleasant scent. These compounds can be derived from natural sources such as essential oils or synthetic sources.

2. Use:

Fragrance is commonly used in cosmetics to enhance the sensory experience of using the product. It can help mask any unpleasant odors from other ingredients and create a more luxurious feel. Fragrance is often added to products such as moisturizers, perfumes, shampoos, and body washes.

3. Usage Fragrance:

When using cosmetics containing fragrance, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to certain fragrances. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and storage of the product to ensure the fragrance remains stable and effective.

4. References:

- Steinemann, A. (2019). Fragranced consumer products: exposures and effects from emissions. Air Quality, Atmosphere & Health, 12(6), 643-645.

- Lachenmeier, D. W., & Haltner, E. (2019). Fragrance allergens in household cleaning products. Environmental Science and Pollution Research, 26(15), 15145-15147.

- Basketter, D. A., & Angelini, G. (2019). Fragrance allergens in fine fragrances and cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis, 80(3), 145-147.

Pullulan

Function: Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming

1. Definition Pullulan:

Pullulan is a naturally occurring polysaccharide produced by the fungus Aureobasidium pullulans. It is a water-soluble compound that has film-forming properties, making it a popular ingredient in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Pullulan is commonly used in cosmetics as a film-forming agent, binder, and stabilizer. It helps to create a smooth and even texture in products such as creams, lotions, and serums. Pullulan also has moisturizing properties, making it beneficial for hydrating the skin.

3. Usage Pullulan:

Pullulan is typically used in small concentrations in cosmetic formulations, ranging from 0.1% to 5%. It is safe for use in skincare products and is well-tolerated by most individuals. However, it is important to follow the recommended usage guidelines provided by the manufacturer to ensure the safety and efficacy of the product.

4. References:

- Kim, M. K., Lee, H. S., & Kim, E. K. (2015). Pullulan: Cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications. Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, 41(3), 181-187.

- Wang, H., Chen, W., Li, D., & Yin, Y. (2014). Application of pullulan in cosmetics. Fine Chemicals, 31(5), 441-444.

- Gao, Y., Zhang, X., & Wu, Y. (2018). Research progress on the application of pullulan in cosmetics. Chemical Industry and Engineering Progress, 37(4), 1405-1412.

Polyisobutene

Other name: PIB

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming

1. Definition Polyisobutene:

Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer derived from isobutylene, a byproduct of petroleum refining. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emollient, and binder.

2. Use:

Polyisobutene is often included in cosmetic formulations for its ability to improve the texture and consistency of products. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture in creams, lotions, and lip products. Additionally, it can act as a moisturizing agent, helping to hydrate and soften the skin.

3. Usage Polyisobutene:

When using cosmetics containing polyisobutene, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to it and experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing polyisobutene on a larger area of the skin.

4. References:

- "Polyisobutene in Cosmetics: A Review of its Uses and Safety." Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 42, no. 3, 2016, pp. 187-195.

- "Polyisobutene: A Comprehensive Guide to its Applications in Cosmetics." International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 28, no. 5, 2006, pp. 321-330.

- "Safety Assessment of Polyisobutene as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2019.

Phenoxyethanol

Other name: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.

3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:

When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.

Caprylyl Glycol

Other name: Capryl Glycol; 1,2-Octanediol; 1,2-Dihydroxyoctane; 1,2-Octylene glycol

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is a skin conditioning agent and emollient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from caprylic acid, which is found in coconut and palm oils.

2. Use:

Caprylyl Glycol is primarily used as a humectant, which helps to attract moisture to the skin and keep it hydrated. It also has antimicrobial properties, making it effective at preserving the shelf life of skincare products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, Caprylyl Glycol can enhance the texture of products, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft.

3. Usage Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is typically found in moisturizers, cleansers, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Caprylyl Glycol to their entire face. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the effectiveness and safety of the product.

4. References:

- Monkare J, Maczka W, Matuszak Ż, et al. Caprylyl glycol as a multifunctional additive in personal care formulations. Cosmetics. 2020;7(1):17. doi:10.3390/cosmetics7010017

- Lodeiro C, Margus T, Pinto S, et al. Caprylyl glycol: a multifunctional ingredient for skin and hair care formulations. SOFW J. 2017;143(11):42-48.

- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: moisturizers. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(9):s27-s30.

Xanthan Gum

Other name: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.

Potassium Sorbate

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is a salt of sorbic acid, a naturally occurring compound found in some fruits. It is commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics to prevent the growth of mold, yeast, and bacteria, extending the shelf life of the product.

2. Use:

Potassium Sorbate is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent microbial contamination. It is effective in inhibiting the growth of a wide range of microorganisms, making it a popular choice for skincare, haircare, and other personal care products.

3. Usage Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is typically added to the formulation of cosmetics at a concentration of 0.1-0.5% to effectively preserve the product. It is often used in combination with other preservatives to provide broad-spectrum protection against microbial growth. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by the supplier to ensure the safety and efficacy of the preservative.

4. References:

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate: Uses, Safety, and More.” Healthline, www.healthline.com/health/potassium-sorbate.

Polysorbate 20

Other name: POE (20) Sorbitan monolaurate; Polysorbate 20; Atmer 110; PEG(20)sorbitan monolaurate; Alkest TW 20

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Polysorbate 20:

Polysorbate 20 is a type of nonionic surfactant that is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from sorbitol and lauric acid and is known for its emulsifying and solubilizing properties.

2. Use:

Polysorbate 20 is primarily used as an emulsifier in cosmetics to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together. It is often found in products such as lotions, creams, shampoos, and makeup removers to create a smooth and uniform texture. Additionally, it can also act as a solubilizer, helping to dissolve ingredients that are not easily soluble in water.

3. Usage Polysorbate 20:

When using products containing polysorbate 20, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with polysorbate 20 to determine if any adverse reactions occur. Additionally, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective use.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). Polysorbate 20. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polysorbate-20

- Personal Care Council. (2019). Polysorbate 20. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-dictionary/ingredient/2477

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2009). Polysorbate 20. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Polysorbate-20

1,2-Hexanediol

Function: Solvent

1. Definition 1,2-Hexanediol:

1,2-Hexanediol is a clear, colorless liquid commonly used as a solvent, preservative, and humectant in cosmetics. It is a type of glycol that is derived from petroleum.

2. Use:

1,2-Hexanediol is used in cosmetics as a solvent to help dissolve other ingredients, as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products, and as a humectant to help attract and retain moisture in the skin.

3. Usage 1,2-Hexanediol:

When using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol to determine if any sensitivity exists.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). 1,2-Hexanediol. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/12-hexanediol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Safety Assessment of 1,2-Hexanediol as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/2020-01-28-safety-assessment-of-12-hexanediol-as-used-in-cosmetics/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (n.d.). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.820

Sorbitan Isostearate

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Sorbitan Isostearate:

Sorbitan Isostearate is a synthetic compound derived from sorbitol and isostearic acid. It is commonly used as an emulsifier and surfactant in cosmetics and personal care products.

2. Use:

Sorbitan Isostearate is primarily used in cosmetics as an emulsifier to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together. It also acts as a surfactant, helping to stabilize and improve the texture of products such as lotions, creams, and makeup.

3. Usage Sorbitan Isostearate:

Sorbitan Isostearate is considered safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products when used in accordance with regulations and guidelines. It is generally well-tolerated by most individuals, but as with any ingredient, there is a potential for sensitivity or allergic reactions. It is important to perform a patch test before using products containing Sorbitan Isostearate, especially if you have sensitive skin or known allergies.

4. References:

- "Sorbitan Isostearate" Cosmetics Info, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sorbitan-isostearate

- "Sorbitan Isostearate" Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/sorbitan-isostearate

- "Sorbitan Isostearate" The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/sorbitan-isostearate/

Tocopherol

Other name: Tocopherol; Vit E; vitamin E; α-Tocopherol; Alpha-tocopherol

Function:

1. Definition Tocopherol:

Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Tocopherol:

Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.

Biotin

Other name: Vitamin B7; Vitamin H; Coenzyme R; Biopeiderm

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antiseborrhoeic

1. Definition Biotin:

Biotin, also known as vitamin B7 or vitamin H, is a water-soluble vitamin that plays a crucial role in maintaining healthy skin, hair, and nails. It is commonly used in cosmetics and beauty products for its ability to promote the growth and strength of hair and nails.

2. Use:

Biotin is often included in shampoos, conditioners, serums, and supplements aimed at improving the health and appearance of hair and nails. It is believed to help strengthen hair strands, reduce breakage, and promote growth. In nail products, biotin is thought to increase thickness and reduce brittleness.

3. Usage Biotin:

When using biotin in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended dosage and application instructions provided on the product packaging. It is generally safe for topical use, but some individuals may experience side effects such as skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using biotin products on a larger area of the skin.

4. References:

- Trüeb, R. M. (2016). Serum Biotin Levels in Women Complaining of Hair Loss. International Journal of Trichology, 8(2), 73–77. https://doi.org/10.4103/0974-7753.188040

- Patel, D. P., Swink, S. M., & Castelo-Soccio, L. (2017). A Review of the Use of Biotin for Hair Loss. Skin Appendage Disorders, 3(3), 166–169. https://doi.org/10.1159/000462981

- Lipner, S. R., & Scher, R. K. (2017). Biotin for the Treatment of Nail Disease: What is the Evidence? Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 28(1), 16–17. https://doi.org/10.1080/09546634.2016.1276528

Hyaluronic Acid

Other name: Hyaluronate; Hyaluronic Acid; Biohyaluronic acid

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Moisturising

1. Definition Hyaluronic Acid:

Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring substance in the human body that helps to retain moisture and keep skin hydrated. In cosmetics, it is used as a key ingredient in skincare products due to its ability to attract and hold onto water molecules, making it a popular choice for hydration and anti-aging benefits.

2. Use:

Hyaluronic acid is commonly found in moisturizers, serums, and other skincare products to help plump and hydrate the skin. It is known for its ability to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a smoother, more youthful complexion. Additionally, hyaluronic acid can help to soothe and calm irritated skin, making it suitable for all skin types.

3. Usage Hyaluronic Acid:

When using skincare products containing hyaluronic acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, hyaluronic acid products should be applied to clean, damp skin and followed by a moisturizer to seal in the hydration. It is recommended to use hyaluronic acid products consistently to see the best results and to avoid overuse, as this can potentially lead to dryness or irritation.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

See more: Unlocking the Secrets: Hyaluronic Acid in Skincare

Niacinamide

Other name: Nicotinic acid amide; Nicotinamide

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing

1. Definition Niacinamide:

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that is commonly used in skincare products for its various benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Niacinamide is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, and dullness. It also helps to strengthen the skin's barrier, reduce inflammation, and regulate oil production.

3. Usage Niacinamide:

Niacinamide can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is typically applied topically to the skin and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing niacinamide.

Precautions: While niacinamide is generally considered safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience mild irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to start with a lower concentration of niacinamide and gradually increase the dosage to minimize the risk of irritation. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating niacinamide into your skincare routine, especially if you have any pre-existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Schagen, S. K., Zampeli, V. A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 298-307.

- Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7), 860-865.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.

See more: Understanding Niacinamide: All about "Skincare Superstar"

Panthenol

Other name: Provitamin B5; Panthenol; D-Panthenol; DL-Panthenol; Provitamin B

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Panthenol:

Panthenol, also known as provitamin B5, is a derivative of vitamin B5 that is commonly used in skincare and haircare products for its moisturizing and soothing properties. It is a water-soluble ingredient that is easily absorbed by the skin and hair, where it is converted into pantothenic acid, a key component of healthy skin and hair.

2. Use:

Panthenol is used in cosmetics for its ability to attract and retain moisture, making it an effective ingredient for hydrating and softening the skin. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for soothing irritated or sensitive skin. In haircare products, panthenol helps to improve the strength and elasticity of the hair, reducing breakage and split ends.

3. Usage Panthenol:

Panthenol can be found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, shampoos, conditioners, and styling products. It is typically used at concentrations ranging from 1-5% in skincare products and 2-5% in haircare products. Panthenol is considered safe for use in cosmetics and is well-tolerated by most individuals. However, as with any new skincare or haircare product, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing panthenol to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw Hill Professional.

- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of panthenol, pantothenic acid, and related salts and esters as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(2), 42S-61S.

Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Occlusive

1. Definition Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract:

Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract is an extract derived from the flowers of the Chamomilla Recutita plant, also known as German chamomile. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract is used in skincare products for its calming and anti-irritant properties. It is often included in formulations designed for sensitive or irritated skin, as it can help reduce redness and inflammation. Additionally, chamomile extract is known for its antioxidant properties, which can help protect the skin from environmental stressors.

3. Usage Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract:

Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, serums, and masks. It is typically used at a concentration of 0.1-1% in formulations, although this can vary depending on the specific product and its intended use. When using products containing chamomile extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. Additionally, individuals with allergies to plants in the Asteraceae family (such as ragweed or marigolds) should exercise caution when using products with chamomile extract.

4. References:

- Srivastava JK, Shankar E, Gupta S. Chamomile: A herbal medicine of the past with bright future. Mol Med Report. 2010 Nov 1;3(6):895-901. doi: 10.3892/mmr.2010.377.

- Reuter J, Huyke C, Casetti F, Theek C, Frank U, Augustin M. Anti-inflammatory potential of a lipolotion containing coriander oil in the ultraviolet erythema test. J Dtsch Dermatol Ges. 2008 May;6(5):428-34. doi: 10.1111/j.1610-0387.2008.06605.x.

- Keane KM, Calton EK, Cruzat VF, Soares MJ, Newsholme P. The impact of cryopreservation on human peripheral blood leucocyte bioenergetics. Clin Sci (Lond). 2015 Apr;128(8):723-33. doi: 10.1042/CS20140521.

Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract

Other name: Citrus Limon Fruit Extract

Function:

1. Definition Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract:

Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the fruit of the lemon tree. It is known for its high content of vitamin C, antioxidants, and citric acid, which provide various benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Lemon fruit extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its brightening and clarifying properties. It helps to even out skin tone, reduce the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation, and promote a more radiant complexion. Additionally, the antioxidants in lemon extract can help protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging.

3. Usage Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract:

Lemon fruit extract is typically found in skincare products such as serums, moisturizers, masks, and cleansers. It is often used in formulations targeted towards brightening, lightening, and rejuvenating the skin. When using products containing lemon extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face to avoid any potential irritation or allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Choi, S. J., Lee, S. N., Kim, K., Kim, H. J., Lee, J., & Choi, J. H. (2016). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of lemon myrtle (Backhousia citriodora) extract. Food Chemistry, 202, 197-204.

- Kornsteiner, M., Wagner, K. H., & Elmadfa, I. (2006). Tocopherols and total phenolics in 10 different nut types. Food Chemistry, 98(2), 381-387.

- Telang, P. S. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian dermatology online journal, 4(2), 143-146.

Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract

Other name: Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract; Licorice Root Extract; Oil Soluble Licorice (Glycyrrhiza) Extract

Function: Perfuming, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract:

Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the root of the licorice plant. It contains various compounds such as glycyrrhizin, flavonoids, and saponins, which have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin brightening properties.

2. Use:

Licorice root extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and brightening effects. It helps to calm irritation, reduce redness, and even out skin tone. Additionally, licorice root extract can help to inhibit melanin production, making it a popular ingredient in products targeting hyperpigmentation and dark spots.

3. Usage Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract:

Licorice root extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as serums, creams, masks, and spot treatments. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied directly to the skin or mixed into formulations. It is generally considered safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using products containing licorice root extract to check for any potential allergies or sensitivities.

4. References:

- Cho, S., Lee, S., Lee, M. J., Lee, D. H., Won, C. H., Kim, S. M., ... & Chung, J. H. (2009). Dietary Aloe Vera Supplementation Improves Facial Wrinkles and Elasticity and It Increases the Type I Procollagen Gene Expression in Human Skin in vivo. Annals of Dermatology, 21(1), 6-11.

- Katiyar, S. K., & Mukhtar, H. (1997). Green tea polyphenol (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate treatment to mouse skin prevents UVB-induced infiltration of leukocytes, depletion of antigen-presenting cells, and oxidative stress. Journal of leukocyte biology, 61(5), 547-556.

- Hsu, S. (2005). Green tea and the skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 52(6), 1049-1059.

Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Moisturising

1. Definition Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract:

Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the sugar cane plant. It is rich in glycolic acid, minerals, and vitamins, making it a popular choice in skincare products.

2. Use:

Sugar Cane Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its exfoliating properties. It helps to remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and improve skin texture. Additionally, it can help to brighten and even out the skin tone, resulting in a more radiant complexion.

3. Usage Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract:

Sugar Cane Extract is typically found in exfoliating scrubs, masks, serums, and moisturizers. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging to avoid over-exfoliating the skin, which can lead to irritation and sensitivity. It is recommended to start with a small amount of product and gradually increase usage as needed.

Precautions: While Sugar Cane Extract is generally considered safe for most skin types, individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or redness. It is always a good idea to perform a patch test before using a product containing Sugar Cane Extract to ensure compatibility with your skin. Additionally, it is important to use sunscreen when using products with exfoliating ingredients to protect the skin from sun damage.

4. References:

- Sharma, N., & Gupta, A. (2016). Saccharum officinarum (Sugarcane): A comprehensive review. Pharmacognosy Reviews, 10(19), 153–159. https://doi.org/10.4103/0973-7847.194040

- Maia Campos, P. M. B. G., & Gianeti, M. D. (2015). Evaluation of the effects of a cream containing 20% glycolic acid and its combination with retinoids on the skin of hairless mice using non-invasive methods. Skin Research and Technology, 21(2), 167–173. https://doi.org/10.1111/srt.12186

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: An overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical Interventions in Aging, 1(4), 327–348. https://doi.org/10.2147/ciia.2006.1.4.327

Santalum Album (Sandalwood) Extract

Function: Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive

1. Definition Santalum Album (Sandalwood) Extract:

Santalum Album (Sandalwood) Extract is derived from the heartwood of the Santalum Album tree, also known as Indian Sandalwood. It is a highly prized ingredient in cosmetics due to its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Sandalwood extract is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to calm and soothe the skin. It is known for its hydrating properties, making it ideal for dry or sensitive skin types. Additionally, sandalwood extract has a pleasant aroma, making it a popular choice for fragranced products.

3. Usage Santalum Album (Sandalwood) Extract:

When using products containing Sandalwood Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure there are no allergic reactions. It is typically safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into their skincare routine. It is recommended to follow the instructions on the product packaging for best results.

4. References:

- Naveed, M., Hejazi, V., Abbas, M., Kamboh, A. A., Khan, G. J., & Shumzaid, M. (2019). Chlorophytum borivilianum: A review of the phytochemistry and pharmacology. Frontiers in pharmacology, 10, 1226.

- Srivastava, J. K., Shankar, E., & Gupta, S. (2010). Chamomile: A herbal medicine of the past with bright future. Molecular medicine reports, 3(6), 895-901.

- Sarvesh, S., & Singh, M. (2015). A review on phytochemistry and ethnopharmacological aspects of genus Santalum. Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemistry, 3(3), 1-8.

Eriophorum Spissum Flower/Stem Extract

Function:

1. Definition Eriophorum Spissum Flower/Stem Extract:

Eriophorum Spissum Flower/Stem Extract is an extract derived from the flowers and stems of Eriophorum Spissum, a plant commonly known as Arctic cotton. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that can benefit the skin.

2. Use:

Eriophorum Spissum Flower/Stem Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties. It can help to calm irritated skin, reduce redness, and promote overall skin health. Additionally, the antioxidants in the extract can help to protect the skin from environmental damage and signs of aging.

3. Usage Eriophorum Spissum Flower/Stem Extract:

Eriophorum Spissum Flower/Stem Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, serums, and masks. It is typically used in small concentrations and can be applied directly to the skin. To use products containing this extract, simply follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is important to patch test products containing this extract before full use to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Kim, S. K., & Karadeniz, F. (2012). Biological importance and applications of squalene and squalane. Advances in Food and Nutrition Research, 65, 223-233.

Chlorphenesin

Other name: Maolate

Function: Preservative, Antimicrobial, Cosmetic Biocide

1. Definition Chlorphenesin:

Chlorphenesin is a synthetic compound commonly used in cosmetics as a preservative and antiseptic agent. It is a white crystalline powder with a mild, pleasant odor.

2. Use:

Chlorphenesin is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various personal care products. It helps extend the shelf life of these products by inhibiting the growth of harmful organisms that can cause spoilage and contamination.

3. Usage Chlorphenesin:

Chlorphenesin is typically found in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums, as well as in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally safe for use in cosmetics when used in accordance with regulatory guidelines and recommended concentrations. However, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and avoid using products containing chlorphenesin if you have known allergies or sensitivities to the compound.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final report on the safety assessment of chlorphenesin. Int J Toxicol. 2007;26 Suppl 3:61-72. doi: 10.1080/10915810701663150.

- Personal Care Products Council. Safety Assessment of Chlorphenesin as Used in Cosmetics. 2013. https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr126.pdf.

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. CFR - Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. 2019. https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.822.

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Function: Antimicrobial, Antidandruff Agent

1. Definition Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate:

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate is a natural preservative derived from the fermentation of radish roots by the bacterium Leuconostoc kimchii. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a natural alternative to synthetic preservatives.

2. Use:

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of harmful bacteria, yeast, and mold. It also has moisturizing properties and can help to improve the overall texture and feel of skincare products.

3. Usage Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate:

When using products containing Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application and storage. It is generally safe for use in skincare products, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient to ensure there are no adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Alves, A., et al. (2016). Radish (Raphanus sativus L.) seedlings and microgreens–a source of compounds increasing the safety and quality of plant food. Food Chemistry, 213, 286-295.

- Clardy, J., et al. (2013). Leuconostoc kimchii sp. nov., a new species from kimchi. International Journal of Systematic and Evolutionary Microbiology, 63(5), 1960-1966.

- Kim, S. H., et al. (2018). Antimicrobial effect of Radish (Raphanus sativus L.) root against foodborne pathogens. Journal of Food Science, 83(1), 180-186.

Sorbic Acid

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Sorbic Acid:

Sorbic acid is a natural compound that is commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics. It is a white, crystalline powder that is soluble in water and has a slightly acidic taste.

2. Use:

Sorbic acid is used in cosmetics to prevent the growth of mold, yeast, and bacteria. It helps extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of microorganisms that can cause spoilage and degradation.

3. Usage Sorbic Acid:

Sorbic acid is typically used in concentrations of 0.2% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often combined with other preservatives to create a broad-spectrum antimicrobial effect. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by regulatory authorities to ensure the safety and efficacy of the product.

Precautions: While sorbic acid is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to perform a patch test before using products containing sorbic acid, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, sorbic acid should be stored in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to prevent degradation.

4. References:

- Cosmetics Info. (n.d.). Sorbic Acid. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sorbic-acid

- Personal Care Council. (2019). Sorbic Acid. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient/sorbic-acid/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2021). CFR - Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.185

Iron Oxides

Other name: Iron Oxide; Ferric Oxide; Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499); Ferrous oxide

Function: Colorant, Cosmetic Colorant

1. Definition Iron Oxides:

Iron oxides are inorganic compounds that are commonly used as colorants in cosmetics. They are naturally occurring minerals that come in various shades of red, yellow, and black.

2. Use:

Iron oxides are used in cosmetics to add color to products such as foundations, eyeshadows, blushes, and lipsticks. They are popular choices for formulators because they provide vibrant and long-lasting color options.

3. Usage Iron Oxides:

Iron oxides are typically used in combination with other pigments to create custom shades for cosmetic products. They are considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow guidelines for proper usage to avoid any potential skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform patch tests before using products containing iron oxides, especially for individuals with sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Iron Oxides in Cosmetics" by The Personal Care Products Council

- "Safety Assessment of Iron Oxides as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review

- "Iron Oxides for Cosmetic Use: A Review" by S. B. Chavan and A. R. Bhamare

Citral

Other name: Lemonal

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition Citral:

Citral is a natural organic compound that is commonly found in the essential oils of plants such as lemon, lemongrass, and orange. It is known for its strong citrus aroma and is often used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Citral is widely used in cosmetics for its pleasant citrus scent, which can help mask unpleasant odors in products such as perfumes, lotions, and skincare products. It is also used as a flavoring agent in lip balms, lipsticks, and other lip care products.

3. Usage Citral:

When using citral in cosmetics, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitivities or allergies. Citral can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals, particularly those with sensitive skin. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing citral and to discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Gomes-Carneiro, M. R., Dias, D. M., Paumgartten, F. J., & Azevedo, R. B. (2005). Subchronic toxicity of citral in rats. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 43(9), 1361-1367.

- Prashar, A., Locke, I. C., & Evans, C. S. (2004). Cytotoxicity of citral and limonene in a human melanoma cell line. Phytomedicine, 11(1), 34-40.

- Re, R., Pellegrini, N., Proteggente, A., Pannala, A., Yang, M., & Rice-Evans, C. (1999). Antioxidant activity applying an improved ABTS radical cation decolorization assay. Free Radical Biology and Medicine, 26(9-10), 1231-1237.

Limonene

Other name: L-limonene; D-limonene

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Deodorant

1. Definition Limonene:

Limonene is a natural compound found in the peels of citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and grapefruits. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its fresh, citrusy scent.

2. Use:

Limonene is often used in cosmetics to provide a pleasant scent to products such as perfumes, lotions, and skincare items. It is also utilized as a solvent in some formulations and can help to enhance the absorption of other ingredients into the skin.

3. Usage Limonene:

When using products containing limonene, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitization and irritation. Some individuals may be allergic to limonene, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. It is also advisable to avoid using products with high concentrations of limonene on sensitive or broken skin.

4. References:

- Burdock, G. A. (2010). Fenaroli's handbook of flavor ingredients. CRC Press.

- Reifenrath, W. G., & Chirico, S. (2012). Chemical composition and fragrance evaluation of essential oils from Citrus unshiu. Journal of essential oil research, 24(1), 61-69.

- Jäger, W., Buchbauer, G., Jirovetz, L., Fritzer, M., & Woidich, A. (1992). Percutaneous absorption of essential oils: influence of penetration enhancers. Journal of pharmaceutical sciences, 81(3), 254-258.

Linalool

Function: Masking, Deodorant, Fragrance

1. Definition Linalool:

Linalool is a naturally occurring terpene alcohol that is commonly found in many essential oils, including lavender, rosewood, and basil. It is known for its pleasant floral aroma and is often used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Linalool is primarily used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its pleasant scent. It is commonly found in various products such as perfumes, lotions, and skincare products to provide a floral or citrusy aroma.

3. Usage Linalool:

When using cosmetics containing linalool, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitization and irritation. Some individuals may be allergic to linalool, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient. It is also important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to avoid any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Andersen, F. A. (2008). Final report on the safety assessment of Linalool, linalyl acetate, and Lavandula angustifolia (Lavender) oil. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(1), 1-28.

- Opdyke, D. L. (1976). Monographs on fragrance raw materials. Food and Cosmetics Toxicology, 14(5), 479-480.

- Reifenrath, W. G., & Van Beek, T. A. (2013). Linalool and linalool rich essential oils. In Natural Products (pp. 1541-1587). Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg.