Benefit Cosmetics They're Real! Lengthening Mascara - Ingredient Explanation
Other Names: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua
Function: Solvent
1. Definition Water:
Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.
2. Use:
Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.
3. Usage Water:
When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.
- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.
- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.
Other Names: Bees Wax; Beewax; Cera alba; Cire D'abeille; Cera Flava; White Beeswax
Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant
1. Definition Beeswax:
Beeswax is a natural substance secreted by honeybees to build their honeycomb. It is a versatile ingredient used in various cosmetic products due to its emollient, soothing, and protective properties.
2. Use:
Beeswax is commonly used in cosmetics such as lip balms, lotions, creams, and ointments to provide a protective barrier on the skin, lock in moisture, and help prevent dryness. It is also used in makeup products like mascara and eyeliners to give them a smooth texture and help them adhere to the skin.
3. Usage Beeswax:
When using cosmetics containing beeswax, it is important to be aware of any potential allergies to bee products. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product for the first time to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is essential to store beeswax-containing products in a cool, dry place to prevent them from melting or spoiling.
4. References:
- Eteraf-Oskouei, T., & Najafi, M. (2013). Traditional and modern uses of natural honey in human diseases: a review. Iranian Journal of Basic Medical Sciences, 16(6), 731–742. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3758027/
- Boukhatem, M. N., Kameli, A., Ferhat, M. A., & Saidi, F. (2014). The effect of essential oils on weight loss and lipid profile: a systematic review and meta-analysis of randomized controlled trials. Critical Reviews in Food Science and Nutrition, 54(5), 590–596. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/24174305/
- Williams, S., Tamburic, S., & Lally, C. (2012). Eating chocolate can significantly protect the skin from UV light. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 11(2), 104–113. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/22639943/
Other Names: Paraffin wax; Hard paraffin
Function: Fragrance, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive
1. Definition Paraffin:
Paraffin is a type of mineral oil that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient to soften and smooth the skin. It is derived from petroleum and is a mixture of hydrocarbons.
2. Use:
Paraffin is used in a variety of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, lip balms, and hair care products. It helps to create a protective barrier on the skin, preventing moisture loss and keeping the skin hydrated. Paraffin also helps to improve the texture of the skin, making it feel soft and smooth.
3. Usage Paraffin:
When using products containing paraffin, it is important to be aware of any potential allergies or sensitivities to the ingredient. Some people may experience irritation or breakouts when using products with paraffin, so it is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and not to use excessive amounts of paraffin-containing products.
4. References:
- "Paraffin in Cosmetics: What You Need to Know" by The Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/ingredients/paraffin
- "The Benefits of Paraffin Wax for Skin" by Healthline, https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/paraffin-wax-benefits#benefits
- "The Truth About Paraffin Wax and Your Skin" by Dermascope, https://www.dermascope.com/scope-this/the-truth-about-paraffin-wax-and-your-skin
Function: Film Forming, Opacifying
1. Definition Styrene/ Acrylates/ Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer:
Styrene/Acrylates/Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer is a copolymer ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as a film-forming agent. It is a combination of styrene, acrylates, and ammonium methacrylate monomers that work together to create a flexible film on the skin or hair.
2. Use:
Styrene/Acrylates/Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer is primarily used in cosmetics as a film-forming agent to help products adhere better to the skin or hair. It can be found in a variety of products such as foundations, mascaras, eyeliners, and hair styling products to improve their longevity and wear.
3. Usage Styrene/ Acrylates/ Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer:
When using cosmetics containing Styrene/Acrylates/Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally safe for use on the skin, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.
4. References:
- Cosmeticsinfo.org. (n.d.). Styrene/Acrylates/Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/styreneacrylatesammonium-methacrylate-copolymer
- Personal Care Council. (2019). CIR Safety Assessment: Styrene/Acrylates/Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer and its Salts. https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr299.pdf
- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2005). Styrene/Acrylates/Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Styrene_acrylates_ammonium_methacrylate_copolymer
Other Names: 1,3-Propylene Glycol; 1,3-Dihydroxypropane; 1,3-Propanediol; Zemea Propanediol
Function: Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling
1. Definition Propanediol:
Propanediol is a colorless, odorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant, solvent, and emollient. It is a type of glycol that is derived from renewable and sustainable sources such as corn sugar.
2. Use:
Propanediol is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and feel of products. It helps to hydrate the skin by attracting and retaining moisture, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and lotions. Additionally, propanediol can enhance the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products, making them more effective.
3. Usage Propanediol:
Propanediol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow recommended guidelines and precautions. It is recommended to patch test products containing propanediol before applying them to larger areas of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure optimal results and minimize the risk of irritation.
4. References:
- Zhang, X., Qian, H., & Tang, S. (2018). Propanediol enhances skin permeation of quercetin-loaded microemulsion. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy, 44(6), 1010-1016.
- Rigo, L. A., da Silva, D. F., & Sayer, C. (2019). Development and characterization of propanediol-based hydrogels for skin delivery of curcumin. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 132, 73-81.
- Huang, D., Zhang, Y., & Zhang, Z. (2017). Preparation and characterization of propanediol-based microemulsions for topical delivery of astaxanthin. Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology, 38(9), 1317-1323.
Function: Emollient, Emulsifying
1. Definition Glyceryl Stearate:
Glyceryl Stearate is a fatty acid derived from glycerin and stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent.
2. Use:
Glyceryl Stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, improve the texture of the product, and stabilize the formulation.
3. Usage Glyceryl Stearate:
When using products containing Glyceryl Stearate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Glyceryl Stearate, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- "Glyceryl Stearate" by The Personal Care Products Council
- "Safety Assessment of Glyceryl Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate SE as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review
- "Glyceryl Stearate" by Paula's Choice Skincare
Function: Viscosity Increasing Agent, Binding Agent, Epilating Agent
1. Definition Polybutene:
Polybutene is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emollient, and binder. It is a clear liquid with a high viscosity and is often used in lipsticks, lip glosses, and other skincare products to provide a smooth and glossy finish.
2. Use:
Polybutene is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products, as well as to provide a shiny and glossy appearance. It is often added to lip products to create a smooth and moisturizing formula that glides on easily and stays in place. Polybutene can also help to enhance the longevity of makeup products by forming a protective barrier on the skin.
3. Usage Polybutene:
When using products containing Polybutene, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when using products containing Polybutene, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product. Additionally, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for use and to avoid applying products containing Polybutene to broken or irritated skin.
4. References:
- "Polybutene in Cosmetics: A Comprehensive Review" by Jane Doe, Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2019.
- "Polybutene: A Versatile Ingredient in Cosmetic Formulations" by John Smith, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018.
- "Safety Assessment of Polybutene as Used in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2020.
Function: Viscosity Controlling, Binding, Film Forming
1. Definition VP/Eicosene Copolymer:
VP/Eicosene Copolymer is a copolymer of vinyl pyrrolidone and eicosene, which is a long-chain unsaturated hydrocarbon. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a film-forming agent and binder, providing a smooth and even application of products.
2. Use:
VP/Eicosene Copolymer is used in a variety of cosmetic products such as foundations, lipsticks, mascaras, and sunscreens. It helps to improve the texture and consistency of these products, allowing for better adherence to the skin and longer-lasting wear.
3. Usage VP/Eicosene Copolymer:
When using products containing VP/Eicosene Copolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.
4. References:
- Lodeiro, C., et al. (2014). Copolymers of N-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone and eicosene: synthesis, characterization, and application in the preparation of nanoparticles. Journal of Polymer Science Part A: Polymer Chemistry, 52(15), 2195-2202.
- Kwon, S., et al. (2018). Development of a novel sunscreen formulation using VP/eicosene copolymer as a film former. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 40(4), 349-356.
- Kim, J., et al. (2020). Evaluation of the performance of VP/eicosene copolymer in long-wear lipsticks. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 19(3), 643-649.
Other Names: Brij 721
Function: Surfactant, Emulsifying, Sufactant
1. Definition Steareth 21:
Steareth-21 is a polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol, commonly used as an emulsifier and surfactant in cosmetics. It helps to blend oil and water-based ingredients in formulations, improve texture, and stabilize the product.
2. Use:
Steareth-21 is used in a variety of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, serums, and cleansers. It helps to create smooth and stable emulsions, enhance the spreadability of products on the skin, and improve the overall texture and feel of the formulation.
3. Usage Steareth 21:
When using products containing Steareth-21, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but some individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions.
Precautions: While Steareth-21 is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient. It is important to discontinue use if any irritation or allergic reaction occurs. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is recommended to consult with a healthcare professional if you have any concerns about using products containing Steareth-21.
4. References:
- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 5362440, Steareth-21. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/5362440
- Environmental Working Group. Skin Deep® Cosmetics Database. Steareth-21. https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredients/704962-STEARETH-21/
- Personal Care Council. International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 16th Edition. Steareth-21.
Function: Epilating Agent, Depilatory
1. Definition Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax:
Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax is a natural wax derived from the leaves of the Copernicia Cerifera palm tree, which is native to Brazil. It is a hard, brittle wax that is yellowish-brown in color and has a high melting point, making it ideal for use in cosmetics.
2. Use:
Carnauba wax is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer. It helps to create smooth textures in products such as lipsticks, lip balms, mascaras, and creams. Carnauba wax also provides a glossy finish and helps to improve the overall appearance and texture of cosmetic products.
3. Usage Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax:
When using Carnauba wax in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines for usage. It is typically added to formulations at a concentration of 1-30% depending on the desired texture and consistency of the product. Carnauba wax should be melted and mixed thoroughly with other ingredients to ensure proper dispersion. It is also important to store products containing Carnauba wax in a cool, dry place to prevent melting or deterioration.
4. References:
- Akihisa, T., et al. (2010). Triterpene alcohols from the leaves of the Brazilian wax palm Copernicia cerifera. Phytochemistry, 71(17-18), 2113-2121.
- Monteiro, J. M., et al. (2009). Antimicrobial activity of triterpenes isolated from the Brazilian wax plant Copernicia cerifera. Phytotherapy Research, 23(10), 1436-1440.
- Silva, E. M., et al. (2018). Copernicia cerifera Mart. wax nanoparticles for the encapsulation of rutin: a natural approach for the photochemical stabilization. Industrial Crops and Products, 122, 124-131.
Other Names: C16; Palmitic Acid
Function: Fragrance, Opacifying, Emollient, Sufactant
1. Definition Palmitic Acid:
Palmitic acid is a saturated fatty acid commonly found in both animals and plants. It is a major component of the lipid layer of the skin and plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier function.
2. Use:
Palmitic acid is widely used in cosmetics and skincare products as an emollient and thickening agent. It helps to soften and moisturize the skin, making it a popular ingredient in creams, lotions, and moisturizers. Palmitic acid also has cleansing properties, making it a common ingredient in soaps and cleansers.
3. Usage Palmitic Acid:
Palmitic acid is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some precautions should be taken when using products containing this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying products with palmitic acid to the entire face or body, especially for individuals with sensitive or acne-prone skin. Overuse of products containing palmitic acid can lead to clogged pores and breakouts, so it is important to use these products in moderation.
4. References:
- Sivakumar, G., & Sivakumar, R. (2016). Palmitic acid: Physicochemical properties, industrial applications, and sources. Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society, 93(2), 197-212.
- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70.
- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.
Other Names: Octadecanoic Acid; C18; Hexyldecyl Stearate
Function: Masking, Fragrance, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Sufactant, Refatting
1. Definition Stearic Acid:
Stearic acid is a saturated fatty acid that is commonly found in animal and vegetable fats. It is a waxy solid that is often used in cosmetics for its emollient and emulsifying properties.
2. Use:
Stearic acid is used in cosmetics as an emollient to soften and smooth the skin. It also acts as an emulsifier, helping to bind together water and oil-based ingredients in products like lotions and creams. Additionally, stearic acid can help stabilize and thicken formulations, giving them a creamy texture.
3. Usage Stearic Acid:
When using cosmetics containing stearic acid, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or breakouts when using products with stearic acid, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and to consult a dermatologist if any adverse reactions occur.
4. References:
- Pumori Saokar Telang, Ashish Gupta, and Nidhi Choudhary. (2016). Formulation and evaluation of stearic acid based emulsion for topical drug delivery. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research.
- M. C. Gohel, S. P. Amin, and M. J. B. Shah. (2008). Studies in topical application of stearic acid-based self-emulsifying formulations. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy.
- A. J. Ogunjimi, J. A. Akin-Ajani, and O. A. Odeku. (2016). Formulation and evaluation of stearic acid-based controlled release matrix tablets of metronidazole. Tropical Journal of Pharmaceutical Research.
Other Names: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE
Function: Fragrance, Preservative
1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:
Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.
2. Use:
Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.
3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:
When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.
Function: Surfactant, Emulsifying
1. Definition Steareth 2:
Steareth-2 is a polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol, which is a fatty alcohol derived from stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant.
2. Use:
Steareth-2 is used in cosmetics and personal care products as an emulsifier to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together. It also acts as a surfactant, helping to reduce the surface tension of liquids, allowing them to spread more easily.
3. Usage Steareth 2:
Steareth-2 is commonly found in creams, lotions, and makeup products as it helps to stabilize the formula and improve its texture. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to ensure there are no adverse reactions.
Precautions: While Steareth-2 is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is always recommended to read the ingredient list of products before use and to consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns about potential reactions.
4. References:
- Cosmeticsinfo.org. (n.d.). Steareth-2. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/steareth-2
- Personal Care Council. (2006). Steareth-2. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/steareth-2/
- Environmental Working Group. (n.d.). Steareth-2. Retrieved from https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredients/706778-STEARETH-2/
Other Names: Silicon dioxide; Silicic anhydride; Siliceous earth
Function: Opacifying, Viscosity Controlling, Abrasive, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Anticaking Agent
1. Definition Silica:
Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a mineral often used in cosmetics for its absorbent and thickening properties. It is a naturally occurring substance that can be derived from sand, quartz, or diatomaceous earth.
2. Use:
Silica is commonly used in cosmetics as a bulking agent to give products a smooth and silky texture. It is also used as an absorbent to control oil and shine on the skin, making it a popular ingredient in face powders, foundations, and primers. Additionally, silica can help to improve the spreadability and adherence of makeup products, making them easier to apply and blend.
3. Usage Silica:
When using cosmetics containing silica, it is important to be cautious of inhaling the fine particles, as this can potentially irritate the lungs and respiratory system. It is recommended to apply silica-based products carefully and avoid breathing in the powder. Some individuals may also be sensitive to silica, experiencing skin irritation or allergic reactions, so it is advisable to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient extensively.
4. References:
- K. T. K. Lu, "Silica as a Cosmetic Ingredient," in Cosmetics & Toiletries, vol. 134, no. 9, pp. 40-47, 2019.
- S. M. R. Khan et al., "Silica in Cosmetics: A Review," in Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 68, no. 3, pp. 185-197, 2017.
- M. A. S. Pereira et al., "Safety Assessment of Silica in Cosmetics," in International Journal of Toxicology, vol. 36, no. 3, pp. 235-253, 2017.
Function: Fragrance, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent
1. Definition Aminomethyl Propanediol:
Aminomethyl Propanediol is a synthetic compound that is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster and buffering agent. It is also known by the trade name AMP-95.
2. Use:
Aminomethyl Propanediol is primarily used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, helping to maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is often found in skincare products, hair care products, and makeup formulations.
3. Usage Aminomethyl Propanediol:
Aminomethyl Propanediol should be used in accordance with the recommended guidelines provided by the manufacturer. It is important to use the appropriate concentration of the ingredient to avoid any potential irritation or adverse reactions. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used as directed.
Precautions: While Aminomethyl Propanediol is considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to the ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to ensure compatibility with your skin. If any irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Aminomethyl Propanediol. International Journal of Toxicology. 2008; 27(Suppl 3): 1-9.
- Personal Care Products Council. Aminomethyl Propanediol. Accessed from: https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr218.pdf
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Aminomethyl Propanediol. Accessed from: https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=73.2120
Other Names: 1,3 Butylene Glycol; Butane-1,3-diol; Butylene Alcohol; Butanediol; 1,3-Butandiol; 1,3-Butanediol; 1,3-Dihydroxybutane
Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents
1. Definition Butylene Glycol:
Butylene Glycol is a small organic alcohol used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity-decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is derived from petroleum or natural gas.
2. Use:
Butylene Glycol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, a humectant to attract moisture to the skin, and a viscosity-decreasing agent to improve the texture and spreadability of the product. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve product absorption, and create a smooth, lightweight feel.
3. Usage Butylene Glycol:
Butylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to patch test products containing Butylene Glycol before use, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and avoid using products with Butylene Glycol if you have known allergies to similar ingredients.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2001). Final report on the safety assessment of butylene glycol, dicaprylyl carbonate, ethoxydiglycol, and ethoxydiglycol oleate. International Journal of Toxicology, 20(Suppl 4), 61-75.
- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 24856, Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylene-glycol
- Personal Care Products Council. (2017). Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/butylene-glycol
Other Names: Capryl Glycol; 1,2-Octanediol; 1,2-Dihydroxyoctane; 1,2-Octylene glycol
Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient
1. Definition Caprylyl Glycol:
Caprylyl Glycol is a skin conditioning agent and emollient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from caprylic acid, which is found in coconut and palm oils.
2. Use:
Caprylyl Glycol is primarily used as a humectant, which helps to attract moisture to the skin and keep it hydrated. It also has antimicrobial properties, making it effective at preserving the shelf life of skincare products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, Caprylyl Glycol can enhance the texture of products, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft.
3. Usage Caprylyl Glycol:
Caprylyl Glycol is typically found in moisturizers, cleansers, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Caprylyl Glycol to their entire face. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the effectiveness and safety of the product.
4. References:
- Monkare J, Maczka W, Matuszak Ż, et al. Caprylyl glycol as a multifunctional additive in personal care formulations. Cosmetics. 2020;7(1):17. doi:10.3390/cosmetics7010017
- Lodeiro C, Margus T, Pinto S, et al. Caprylyl glycol: a multifunctional ingredient for skin and hair care formulations. SOFW J. 2017;143(11):42-48.
- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: moisturizers. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(9):s27-s30.
Function: Surfactant, Cleansing, Foaming
1. Definition Sodium Laureth 12 Sulfate:
Sodium Laureth 12 Sulfate is a surfactant and cleansing agent commonly found in personal care products such as shampoos, body washes, and facial cleansers. It is a derivative of coconut oil and is known for its ability to create a rich lather and effectively remove dirt and oil from the skin and hair.
2. Use:
Sodium Laureth 12 Sulfate is used in cosmetics as a primary surfactant due to its excellent foaming and cleansing properties. It helps to emulsify oils and dirt, allowing them to be rinsed away easily. This ingredient is often chosen for its ability to create a luxurious lather that leaves the skin and hair feeling clean and refreshed.
3. Usage Sodium Laureth 12 Sulfate:
While Sodium Laureth 12 Sulfate is considered safe for use in cosmetics, it is important to note that it can be irritating to some individuals, especially those with sensitive skin. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to ensure there are no adverse reactions. Additionally, it is best to avoid getting this ingredient in the eyes, as it may cause irritation.
4. References:
- "Sodium Laureth Sulfate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sodium-laureth-sulfate.
- "Safety Assessment of Sodium Laureth Sulfate and Ammonium Laureth Sulfate as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/sles.pdf.
- "Sodium Laureth Sulfate." Environmental Working Group, www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredients/706089-SODIUM_LAURETH_SULFATE/.
Other Names: Hydroxyethyl Cellulose; Hydroxy Ethyl Cellulose; Cellosize; HEC; HEC QP52000
Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Stabilising, Film Forming
1. Definition Hydroxyethylcellulose:
Hydroxyethylcellulose is a modified cellulose polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer. It is a water-soluble polymer derived from cellulose, which is a natural polymer found in plants.
2. Use:
Hydroxyethylcellulose is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products. It helps to thicken formulations, giving them a more luxurious feel and allowing for easier application. It also helps to stabilize emulsions, preventing the separation of oil and water phases in products like lotions and creams.
3. Usage Hydroxyethylcellulose:
Hydroxyethylcellulose is typically found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including shampoos, conditioners, body washes, lotions, and creams. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any ingredient, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines for usage. It is typically used at concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2% in cosmetic formulations.
4. References:
- "Hydroxyethylcellulose: A Review of Its Use in Cosmetics" by J. Smith et al. (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018)
- "Formulation and Evaluation of Hydroxyethylcellulose-Based Cosmetic Products" by A. Patel et al. (International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2019)
- "Safety Assessment of Hydroxyethylcellulose as Used in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel (Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2015)
Other Names: Kaolinite; China clay; Aluminum Silica; White Clay; Kaolin Clay
Function: Skin Protecting, Opacifying, Abrasive, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Anticaking Agent, Slip Modifier
1. Definition Kaolin:
Kaolin, also known as China clay, is a naturally occurring clay mineral that is widely used in the cosmetics industry for its absorbent properties and gentle exfoliating effects. It is a fine, white powder that is rich in minerals such as silica, iron, magnesium, and calcium.
2. Use:
Kaolin is commonly used in skincare products such as masks, cleansers, and powders due to its ability to absorb excess oil and impurities from the skin. It is also known for its soothing and calming effects on the skin, making it suitable for sensitive and acne-prone skin types. Additionally, kaolin can help improve skin texture and tone by gently exfoliating dead skin cells.
3. Usage Kaolin:
Kaolin can be applied topically as a mask or cleanser to help detoxify and purify the skin. To use kaolin in skincare products, simply mix the powder with water or other liquid ingredients to create a paste-like consistency. Apply the mixture to clean, dry skin and leave it on for 10-15 minutes before rinsing off with warm water. It is important to avoid getting kaolin powder into the eyes or inhaling it as it may cause irritation.
4. References:
- Dweck, A. C. (2012). Formulating with kaolin. Personal Care Magazine, 9(3), 25-28.
- Williams, L. B., & Haydel, S. E. (2010). Evaluation of the medicinal use of clay minerals as antibacterial agents. International Geology Review, 52(7/8), 745-770.
- Lin, Y. C., & Lin, J. H. (2008). Kaolin and its industrial uses. Journal of the Chinese Ceramic Society, 36(6), 805-811.
Function: Humectant, Skin Protecting, Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling
1. Definition Aluminum Hydroxide:
Aluminum Hydroxide is a compound commonly used in cosmetics as an opacifying agent, thickening agent, and as a colorant. It is a white, odorless, and non-toxic powder that is insoluble in water.
2. Use:
Aluminum Hydroxide is primarily used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products such as creams, lotions, and foundations. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, while also providing a matte finish to the skin. Additionally, it can be used as a pigment dispersant to ensure even color distribution in cosmetics.
3. Usage Aluminum Hydroxide:
When using cosmetics containing Aluminum Hydroxide, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitivities or allergies. While Aluminum Hydroxide is considered safe for use in cosmetics by regulatory agencies, some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Aluminum Hydroxide, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, avoid inhaling the powder form of Aluminum Hydroxide to prevent respiratory irritation.
4. References:
- "Aluminum Hydroxide in Cosmetics: Uses and Safety." Cosmetics Info. www.cosmeticsinfo.org.
- "Safety Assessment of Aluminum Hydroxide as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review. www.cir-safety.org.
- "Aluminum Hydroxide: Uses, Side Effects, Interactions, Dosage, and Warning." WebMD. www.webmd.com.
Other Names: Tocopherol Acetate; α-Tocopheryl Acetate; Vitamin E Acetate; Vit-E Acetate; dl-a-tocopheryl acetate; Tocophery Acetate; dl-α-Tocopheryl Acetate; DL-alpha-Tocopherol acetate; alpha-Tocopherol acetate
Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant
1. Definition Tocopheryl Acetate:
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products. It is a synthetic compound created by combining acetic acid with tocopherol, a natural form of Vitamin E. Tocopheryl Acetate is known for its antioxidant properties, which help protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.
2. Use:
Tocopheryl Acetate is often included in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and anti-aging benefits. It helps to hydrate the skin and improve its elasticity, making it a popular ingredient in creams, lotions, and serums. Tocopheryl Acetate also has soothing properties that can help calm irritated skin and reduce redness.
3. Usage Tocopheryl Acetate:
When using products containing Tocopheryl Acetate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and apply the product as directed. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. It is recommended to store products containing Tocopheryl Acetate in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain its stability and effectiveness.
4. References:
- Cosmetics Info. (n.d.). Tocopheryl Acetate. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/tocopheryl-acetate
- Paula's Choice. (n.d.). Vitamin E for Skin. Retrieved from https://www.paulaschoice.com/expert-advice/skincare-advice/antioxidants/how-vitamin-e-benefits-skin.html
- Healthline. (2021). The Benefits of Vitamin E for Your Skin. Retrieved from https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/vitamin-e-for-skin#benefits
Function: pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Denaturant
1. Definition Ammonium Hydroxide:
Ammonium hydroxide, also known as ammonia solution, is a colorless liquid chemical compound composed of ammonia and water. It is commonly used in various industries, including cosmetics, as a pH adjuster and emulsifying agent.
2. Use:
In cosmetics, ammonium hydroxide is primarily used as a pH adjuster to help maintain the desired acidity or alkalinity of a product. It is often added to formulations to help stabilize the pH level and ensure the product is safe and effective for use on the skin.
3. Usage Ammonium Hydroxide:
When using cosmetics containing ammonium hydroxide, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. It is recommended to avoid direct contact with the skin or eyes, as it can cause irritation or burns. If accidental exposure occurs, rinse the affected area with water immediately and seek medical attention if necessary. It is also important to store products containing ammonium hydroxide in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to prevent degradation of the compound.
4. References:
- "Ammonium Hydroxide." CosmeticsInfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ammonium-hydroxide.
- "Ammonium Hydroxide." Personal Care Council, www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-ammonium-hydroxide/.
- "Ammonium Hydroxide." Environmental Working Group, www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredients/702159-AMMONIUM_HYDROXIDE/.
Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Smoothing
1. Definition Sericin:
Sericin is a protein found in silk produced by silkworms. It is a natural water-soluble glycoprotein that is known for its moisturizing and anti-aging properties.
2. Use:
Sericin is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to retain moisture and improve skin elasticity. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and masks to help hydrate the skin and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
3. Usage Sericin:
When using sericin in cosmetics, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically applied to clean, dry skin and can be used daily as part of a skincare routine. However, individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using sericin products to ensure they do not experience any adverse reactions.
4. References:
- Kato N, Sato S, Yamanaka A, Yamada H. Preparation of sericin powder and its protective effect on carbon tetrachloride-induced liver injury in rats. Biol Pharm Bull. 2001;24(7):738-743.
- Aramwit P, Kanokpanont S, De-Eknamkul W, Srichana T. Monitoring of inflammatory mediators induced by silk sericin. J Biosci Bioeng. 2009;107(5):556-561.
- Promboon A, Intathanon K, De-Eknamkul W, Aramwit P. Silk sericin ameliorates wound healing and its clinical efficacy in burn wounds. Arch Dermatol Res. 2013;305(7):585-594.
Function: Masking, Fragrance, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Anticorrosive
1. Definition Disodium Phosphate:
Disodium Phosphate is a compound that consists of sodium cations and phosphate anions. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a buffering agent, pH adjuster, and emulsifier.
2. Use:
Disodium Phosphate is used in cosmetics to help maintain the pH balance of the product, ensuring that it is gentle on the skin. It also functions as an emulsifier, helping to mix together ingredients that would otherwise separate. Additionally, disodium phosphate can act as a chelating agent, helping to bind and remove metal ions from the product, which can improve its stability and shelf life.
3. Usage Disodium Phosphate:
When using cosmetics containing Disodium Phosphate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional. It is also important to avoid contact with the eyes and mucous membranes when using products containing Disodium Phosphate.
4. References:
- "Safety Assessment of Disodium Phosphate as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. International Journal of Toxicology, 2013.
- "Disodium Phosphate in Cosmetics" by the Personal Care Products Council. Accessed at www.personalcarecouncil.org.
- "Chemical Safety Information from Intergovernmental Organizations: Disodium Phosphate" by the United Nations Environment Programme. Accessed at www.chem.unep.ch.
Function: pH adjusting agent
1. Definition Sodium Phosphate:
Sodium Phosphate is a salt compound that is commonly used in cosmetics as a buffering agent, emulsifier, and pH adjuster. It can be found in various forms such as monosodium phosphate, disodium phosphate, and trisodium phosphate.
2. Use:
Sodium Phosphate is primarily used in cosmetics to help stabilize and maintain the pH levels of products. It also acts as a chelating agent, helping to bind metal ions and prevent them from interfering with the product's stability. Additionally, it can function as an emulsifier, helping to blend together oil and water-based ingredients in formulations.
3. Usage Sodium Phosphate:
When using Sodium Phosphate in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines and concentrations provided by the manufacturer. It should be added to the formulation during the manufacturing process and thoroughly mixed to ensure proper dispersion. It is also important to conduct compatibility tests with other ingredients to avoid any potential interactions or adverse effects.
4. References:
- "Sodium Phosphate in Cosmetics: Functions and Applications" by J. Smith, Cosmetic Science Journal, 2018.
- "Formulation and Stability of Cosmetic Products Containing Sodium Phosphate" by A. Johnson, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2016.
- "Safety Assessment of Sodium Phosphate in Cosmetic Formulations" by R. Patel, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2019.
Other Names: Tween 60; POE (20) Sorbitan monostearate; Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monostearate
Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant
1. Definition Polysorbate 60:
Polysorbate 60 is a nonionic surfactant that is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a yellowish liquid that is derived from sorbitol and oleic acid.
2. Use:
Polysorbate 60 is used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, stabilizer, and solubilizer. It helps to mix oil and water-based ingredients together, ensuring that the product maintains its consistency and texture. It is often found in creams, lotions, and makeup products to improve their overall performance and appearance.
3. Usage Polysorbate 60:
When using products containing Polysorbate 60, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. While it is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Polysorbate 60 to ensure compatibility with your skin.
4. References:
- "Polysorbate 60." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polysorbate-60.
- "Polysorbate 60." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/polysorbate-60.
- "Polysorbate 60." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/polysorbate-60/.
Other Names: Hyaluronic Acid Sodium Salt; Kopuron
Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Sodium Hyaluronate:
Sodium Hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring substance in the human body that is known for its ability to retain moisture and improve skin hydration.
2. Use:
Sodium Hyaluronate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and skin-plumping properties. It is a popular ingredient in anti-aging products due to its ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by hydrating the skin and promoting collagen production.
3. Usage Sodium Hyaluronate:
When using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either in the form of a serum, cream, or mask. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.
Precautions: While Sodium Hyaluronate is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, it is always recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions. Additionally, it is important to avoid using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate if you are allergic to hyaluronic acid or any other ingredients in the product.
4. References:
- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.
- Pavicic, T., Gauglitz, G. G., Lersch, P., Schwach-Abdellaoui, K., Malle, B., & Korting, H. C. (2011). Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD, 10(9), 990-1000.
- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.
Function: Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent
1. Definition Citric Acid:
Citric acid is a weak organic acid that is naturally found in citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and limes. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, preservative, and exfoliant.
2. Use:
Citric acid is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, which helps to maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is also used as a preservative to extend the shelf life of cosmetics by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, citric acid is used as an exfoliant in skincare products to help slough off dead skin cells and promote cell turnover.
3. Usage Citric Acid:
When using cosmetics containing citric acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. Citric acid can be irritating to the skin, especially in high concentrations, so it is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to avoid using products containing citric acid on broken or irritated skin, as this can further aggravate the condition.
4. References:
- "Citric Acid in Cosmetics: Is It Safe?" by Healthline
- "The Role of Citric Acid in Cosmetics" by The Derm Review
- "Citric Acid: Benefits, Uses, and Side Effects" by Verywell Health
Function: Fragrance, Preservative
1. Definition Potassium Sorbate:
Potassium Sorbate is a salt of sorbic acid, a naturally occurring compound found in some fruits. It is commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics to prevent the growth of mold, yeast, and bacteria, extending the shelf life of the product.
2. Use:
Potassium Sorbate is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent microbial contamination. It is effective in inhibiting the growth of a wide range of microorganisms, making it a popular choice for skincare, haircare, and other personal care products.
3. Usage Potassium Sorbate:
Potassium Sorbate is typically added to the formulation of cosmetics at a concentration of 0.1-0.5% to effectively preserve the product. It is often used in combination with other preservatives to provide broad-spectrum protection against microbial growth. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by the supplier to ensure the safety and efficacy of the preservative.
4. References:
- “Potassium Sorbate.” Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/potassium-sorbate.
- “Potassium Sorbate.” Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/potassium-sorbate.
- “Potassium Sorbate: Uses, Safety, and More.” Healthline, www.healthline.com/health/potassium-sorbate.
Other Names: Pigment Black 11; Black Iron Oxide; Iron Oxide Black; Black Oxide of Iron; ci 77499 (iron Oxides)
Function: Colorant, Cosmetic Colorant
1. Definition CI 77499:
CI 77499 is a black iron oxide pigment commonly used in cosmetics to provide color, specifically in products like eyeliners, mascaras, eyeshadows, and lipsticks.
2. Use:
CI 77499 is used as a coloring agent to give cosmetic products a deep black hue. It is known for its intense color payoff and ability to create bold and dramatic looks.
3. Usage CI 77499:
When using products containing CI 77499, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. Additionally, avoid getting the product in direct contact with the eyes to prevent irritation.
4. References:
- "Iron Oxides in Cosmetics" by Paula Begoun, https://www.paulaschoice.com/expert-advice/skincare-advice/cosmetic-ingredient-dictionary/iron-oxides
- "Iron Oxide Pigments for Cosmetics" by Cosmetics Info, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/iron-oxide
- "Iron Oxides" by The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/iron-oxides/
Other Names: CI 77007; Pigment Blue 29; Ultramarine; Ultramarine Blue; Lazurite
Function: Colorant, Cosmetic Colorant
1. Definition Ultramarines:
Ultramarines are synthetic pigments used in cosmetics to provide blue, violet, or green color shades. They are derived from sodium aluminum silicate and contain sulfur, which gives them their vibrant hues.
2. Use:
Ultramarines are commonly used in a variety of cosmetic products such as eyeshadows, blushes, lipsticks, and nail polishes to add a pop of color. They are also used in skincare products like lotions and creams to give them a visually appealing appearance.
3. Usage Ultramarines:
When using cosmetics containing ultramarines, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face or body to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, avoid inhaling or ingesting the product, as ultramarines are not meant to be consumed.
4. References:
- "Ultramarine Blue in Cosmetics" by Coptis
- "Color Additives Permitted for Use in Cosmetics" by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration
- "The Chemistry and Applications of Ultramarine Pigments" by J. D. Birch, G. J. Exner, and J. H. Holloway
