PAPA RECIPE Trouble AC Toner - Ingredient Explanation
Water
Other Names: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua
Function: Solvent
1. Definition Water:
Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.
2. Use:
Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.
3. Usage Water:
When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.
- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.
- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.
Other Names: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol
Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant
1. Definition Glycerin:
Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.
2. Use:
Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.
3. Usage Glycerin:
When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.
Butylene Glycol
Other Names: 1,3 Butylene Glycol; Butane-1,3-diol; Butylene Alcohol; Butanediol; 1,3-Butandiol; 1,3-Butanediol; 1,3-Dihydroxybutane
Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents
1. Definition Butylene Glycol:
Butylene Glycol is a small organic alcohol used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity-decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is derived from petroleum or natural gas.
2. Use:
Butylene Glycol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, a humectant to attract moisture to the skin, and a viscosity-decreasing agent to improve the texture and spreadability of the product. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve product absorption, and create a smooth, lightweight feel.
3. Usage Butylene Glycol:
Butylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to patch test products containing Butylene Glycol before use, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and avoid using products with Butylene Glycol if you have known allergies to similar ingredients.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2001). Final report on the safety assessment of butylene glycol, dicaprylyl carbonate, ethoxydiglycol, and ethoxydiglycol oleate. International Journal of Toxicology, 20(Suppl 4), 61-75.
- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 24856, Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylene-glycol
- Personal Care Products Council. (2017). Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/butylene-glycol
Propylene Glycol
Other Names: Monopropylene Glycol; Propyl Glycol; 1,2-Dihydroxypropane; 1,2-Propanediol; Propane-1,2-diol; 1,2-Propylene Glycol
Function: Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Skin-Conditioningagent - Miscellaneous
1. Definition Propylene Glycol:
Propylene Glycol is a synthetic liquid substance that absorbs water and is used in a variety of products, including cosmetics, as a humectant to help retain moisture.
2. Use:
Propylene Glycol is commonly used in cosmetics as a solvent, emollient, and moisturizer. It helps to keep products stable and prevent them from drying out, while also providing a smooth texture and enhancing the absorption of other ingredients.
3. Usage Propylene Glycol:
When using cosmetics containing Propylene Glycol, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to this ingredient, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Propylene Glycol for the first time. Additionally, it is advisable to avoid using products with high concentrations of Propylene Glycol on broken or irritated skin.
4. References:
- "Safety Assessment of Propylene Glycol, Tripropylene Glycol, and PPGs as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel
- "Propylene Glycol" by the Environmental Working Group
- "Propylene Glycol in Cosmetics" by the Personal Care Products Council
Propanediol
Other Names: 1,3-Propylene Glycol; 1,3-Dihydroxypropane; 1,3-Propanediol; Zemea Propanediol
Function: Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling
1. Definition Propanediol:
Propanediol is a colorless, odorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant, solvent, and emollient. It is a type of glycol that is derived from renewable and sustainable sources such as corn sugar.
2. Use:
Propanediol is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and feel of products. It helps to hydrate the skin by attracting and retaining moisture, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and lotions. Additionally, propanediol can enhance the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products, making them more effective.
3. Usage Propanediol:
Propanediol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow recommended guidelines and precautions. It is recommended to patch test products containing propanediol before applying them to larger areas of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure optimal results and minimize the risk of irritation.
4. References:
- Zhang, X., Qian, H., & Tang, S. (2018). Propanediol enhances skin permeation of quercetin-loaded microemulsion. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy, 44(6), 1010-1016.
- Rigo, L. A., da Silva, D. F., & Sayer, C. (2019). Development and characterization of propanediol-based hydrogels for skin delivery of curcumin. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 132, 73-81.
- Huang, D., Zhang, Y., & Zhang, Z. (2017). Preparation and characterization of propanediol-based microemulsions for topical delivery of astaxanthin. Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology, 38(9), 1317-1323.
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract
Function: Skin Conditioning, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Occlusive
1. Definition Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract:
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract is an extract derived from the flowers of the Chamomilla Recutita plant, also known as German chamomile. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.
2. Use:
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract is used in skincare products for its calming and anti-irritant properties. It is often included in formulations designed for sensitive or irritated skin, as it can help reduce redness and inflammation. Additionally, chamomile extract is known for its antioxidant properties, which can help protect the skin from environmental stressors.
3. Usage Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract:
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, serums, and masks. It is typically used at a concentration of 0.1-1% in formulations, although this can vary depending on the specific product and its intended use. When using products containing chamomile extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. Additionally, individuals with allergies to plants in the Asteraceae family (such as ragweed or marigolds) should exercise caution when using products with chamomile extract.
4. References:
- Srivastava JK, Shankar E, Gupta S. Chamomile: A herbal medicine of the past with bright future. Mol Med Report. 2010 Nov 1;3(6):895-901. doi: 10.3892/mmr.2010.377.
- Reuter J, Huyke C, Casetti F, Theek C, Frank U, Augustin M. Anti-inflammatory potential of a lipolotion containing coriander oil in the ultraviolet erythema test. J Dtsch Dermatol Ges. 2008 May;6(5):428-34. doi: 10.1111/j.1610-0387.2008.06605.x.
- Keane KM, Calton EK, Cruzat VF, Soares MJ, Newsholme P. The impact of cryopreservation on human peripheral blood leucocyte bioenergetics. Clin Sci (Lond). 2015 Apr;128(8):723-33. doi: 10.1042/CS20140521.
Allantoin
Other Names: Glyoxyldiureide; Allantion
Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing
1. Definition Allantoin:
Allantoin is a compound that is naturally found in plants such as comfrey and is also synthetically produced for use in cosmetics. It is known for its soothing, healing, and moisturizing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.
2. Use:
Allantoin is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to promote skin regeneration and repair. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, making it an effective ingredient in products designed to treat dry, rough, or damaged skin. Allantoin is also known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it a great option for soothing irritated or sensitive skin.
3. Usage Allantoin:
Allantoin is typically found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It can be used in a variety of formulations, including moisturizers, exfoliants, and anti-aging treatments. When using products containing allantoin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to patch test the product before applying it to larger areas of the skin to ensure compatibility.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences.
- Mukherjee, P. K., & Maity, N. (2011). Acute oral toxicity study of Allantoin in Swiss albino mice. International Journal of Research in Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Sciences, 2(3), 1247-1251.
- Vaughn, A. R., Clark, A. K., Sivamani, R. K., & Shi, V. Y. (2019). Natural oils for skin-barrier repair: ancient compounds now backed by modern science. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 20(3), 285-295.
Glyceryl Caprylate
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant
1. Definition Glyceryl Caprylate:
Glyceryl Caprylate is a multifunctional ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and preservative. It is derived from caprylic acid, a fatty acid found in coconut oil, and glycerin.
2. Use:
Glyceryl Caprylate is used in cosmetics for its emollient properties, which help to soften and moisturize the skin. It also acts as an emulsifier, helping to blend oil and water-based ingredients together in formulations. Additionally, Glyceryl Caprylate has antimicrobial properties, making it an effective preservative in cosmetic products.
3. Usage Glyceryl Caprylate:
Glyceryl Caprylate is commonly found in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums. It is used in concentrations typically ranging from 0.5% to 2%. When using products containing Glyceryl Caprylate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and patch test the product on a small area of skin before applying it to a larger area to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.
4. References:
- "Glyceryl Caprylate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/glyceryl-caprylate.
- "Glyceryl Caprylate." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/glyceryl-caprylate/.
- "Glyceryl Caprylate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/glyceryl-caprylate.
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil
Other Names: melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil; melaleuca alternifolia oil; tea tree leaf oil; tea tree essential oil
Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Antioxidant
1. Definition Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil:
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil is a natural essential oil derived from the leaves of the Tea Tree plant. It is known for its antibacterial, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory properties.
2. Use:
Tea Tree Leaf Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to treat various skin conditions such as acne, eczema, and psoriasis. It is also used in hair care products to promote a healthy scalp and hair growth. Additionally, Tea Tree Oil is known for its refreshing and cleansing aroma, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.
3. Usage Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil:
When using Tea Tree Leaf Oil in cosmetics, it is important to dilute it properly as it can be irritating to the skin when used in high concentrations. It is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to the skin to check for any allergic reactions. Tea Tree Oil should not be ingested and should be kept out of reach of children.
4. References:
- Carson, C. F., Hammer, K. A., & Riley, T. V. (2006). Melaleuca alternifolia (Tea Tree) oil: a review of antimicrobial and other medicinal properties. Clinical Microbiology Reviews, 19(1), 50-62.
- Hammer, K. A., Carson, C. F., & Riley, T. V. (2012). Antifungal activity of the components of Melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree) oil. Journal of Applied Microbiology, 95(4), 853-860.
- Pazyar, N., Yaghoobi, R., Bagherani, N., & Kazerouni, A. (2013). A review of applications of tea tree oil in dermatology. International Journal of Dermatology, 52(7), 784-790.
Other Names: Salicylates; 2-hydroxybenzoic; Salicylic Acid; Beta Hydroxy Acid
Function: Masking, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Denaturant , Preservative, Skin Conditioning, Exfoliant, Antidandruff Agent, Antiacne Agent, Keratolytic, Corn/Callus/Wart Remover
1. Definition Salicylic Acid:
Salicylic Acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that is commonly used in skincare products for its exfoliating and anti-inflammatory properties. It works by penetrating the pores and breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells, helping to unclog pores and prevent acne breakouts.
2. Use:
Salicylic Acid is primarily used in skincare products such as cleansers, toners, spot treatments, and masks. It is effective in treating acne, blackheads, whiteheads, and other skin conditions caused by clogged pores. Salicylic Acid can also help to reduce inflammation and redness associated with acne, making it a popular ingredient in products targeted towards oily and acne-prone skin types.
3. Usage Salicylic Acid:
When using products containing Salicylic Acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration to avoid potential irritation or drying out of the skin. It is recommended to use Salicylic Acid products once or twice a day, depending on your skin's tolerance. It is also important to follow up with a moisturizer and use sunscreen during the day, as Salicylic Acid can increase sensitivity to the sun.
4. References:
- Kornhauser, A., Coelho, S. G., & Hearing, V. J. (2010). Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 3, 135–142. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S9042
- Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 455–461. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S84765
- Chien, A. L., Qi, J., Rainer, B., & Sachs, D. L. (2018). Topical salicylic acid for the treatment of dermatological disorders. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 17(6), 725–730. https://jddonline.com/articles/dermatology/S1545961618P0725X/1
Peg 60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Function: Fragrance, Surfactant, Sufactant
1. Definition Peg 60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil:
Peg 60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is a polyethylene glycol derivative of hydrogenated castor oil. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, surfactant, and solubilizer.
2. Use:
Peg 60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is primarily used in skincare and haircare products as an emulsifier to help mix oil and water-based ingredients. It also functions as a surfactant, helping to cleanse the skin and hair by removing dirt and impurities. Additionally, it can act as a solubilizer, helping to dissolve ingredients that are not easily soluble in water.
3. Usage Peg 60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil:
Peg 60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil should be used in accordance with the recommended guidelines provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience sensitivity or allergic reactions to this ingredient. It is important to perform a patch test before using products containing Peg 60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil to ensure compatibility with your skin.
4. References:
- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). Polyethylene glycols. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polyethylene-glycols
- Personal Care Council. (2019). Hydrogenated Castor Oil. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/hydrogenated-castor-oil/
- The Dermatology Review. (n.d.). Castor Oil in Skin Care: Benefits and Uses. https://thedermreview.com/castor-oil-in-skin-care/
Other Names: Hydroxyacetic acid
Function: pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Exfoliant
1. Definition Glycolic Acid:
Glycolic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugar cane. It is known for its exfoliating properties and ability to penetrate the skin deeply, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.
2. Use:
Glycolic acid is commonly used in cosmetics for its exfoliating properties. It helps to remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and improve the overall texture and tone of the skin. It is often found in products such as cleansers, toners, serums, and peels.
3. Usage Glycolic Acid:
When using products containing glycolic acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration to avoid irritation. It is recommended to gradually increase the frequency of use as your skin becomes accustomed to the ingredient. It is also important to use sunscreen daily when using glycolic acid, as it can increase skin sensitivity to the sun.
Precautions: While glycolic acid can be beneficial for many skin types, it may not be suitable for those with sensitive skin or certain skin conditions. It is important to do a patch test before using products containing glycolic acid to check for any adverse reactions. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating glycolic acid into your skincare routine.
4. References:
- Ditre, C. M., Griffin, T. D., Murphy, G. F., Sueki, H., & Telegan, B. (1996). Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: a pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 34(2), 187-195.
- Kornhauser, A., Coelho, S. G., & Hearing, V. J. (2010). Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 3, 135-142.
- Sharad, J. (2013). Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 6, 281-288.
Ammonium Hydroxide
Function: pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Denaturant
1. Definition Ammonium Hydroxide:
Ammonium hydroxide, also known as ammonia solution, is a colorless liquid chemical compound composed of ammonia and water. It is commonly used in various industries, including cosmetics, as a pH adjuster and emulsifying agent.
2. Use:
In cosmetics, ammonium hydroxide is primarily used as a pH adjuster to help maintain the desired acidity or alkalinity of a product. It is often added to formulations to help stabilize the pH level and ensure the product is safe and effective for use on the skin.
3. Usage Ammonium Hydroxide:
When using cosmetics containing ammonium hydroxide, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. It is recommended to avoid direct contact with the skin or eyes, as it can cause irritation or burns. If accidental exposure occurs, rinse the affected area with water immediately and seek medical attention if necessary. It is also important to store products containing ammonium hydroxide in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to prevent degradation of the compound.
4. References:
- "Ammonium Hydroxide." CosmeticsInfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ammonium-hydroxide.
- "Ammonium Hydroxide." Personal Care Council, www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-ammonium-hydroxide/.
- "Ammonium Hydroxide." Environmental Working Group, www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredients/702159-AMMONIUM_HYDROXIDE/.
Beta Glucan
Other Names: β-Glucans; 1,3-Glucan,1,6-Glucan; Beta-Glucan; β-Glucan
Function: Skin Conditioning, Bulking Agent
1. Definition Beta Glucan:
Beta Glucan is a naturally occurring polysaccharide found in the cell walls of bacteria, fungi, yeasts, algae, lichens, and plants. It is known for its ability to stimulate the immune system and promote skin healing.
2. Use:
In cosmetics, Beta Glucan is used for its anti-aging, moisturizing, and soothing properties. It helps to improve the skin's elasticity, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and hydrate the skin. Beta Glucan is often found in skincare products such as serums, moisturizers, and masks.
3. Usage Beta Glucan:
When using cosmetics containing Beta Glucan, it is important to patch test the product first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. It is generally safe for most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always best to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating any new ingredient into your skincare routine. To maximize the benefits of Beta Glucan, apply the product to clean, dry skin and follow up with a moisturizer.
4. References:
- Choi, J. K., Kim, S. H. (2018). Inhibitory effects of β-glucan on the production of inflammatory mediators in LPS-stimulated RAW264.7 macrophages. The Journal of Nutritional Biochemistry, 54, 72-80.
- Kim, H. S., Hong, J. T., Kim, Y., Han, S. B. (2016). Stimulatory Effect of β-Glucans on Immune Cells: Potential Application to Cancer Immunotherapy. Anti-Cancer Agents in Medicinal Chemistry, 16(1), 30-37.
- Zykova, T. A., Zhu, F., Zhai, X., Ma, W. Y., Ermakova, S. P., Lee, K. W., Bode, A. M., Dong, Z. (2005). Resveratrol directly targets COX-2 to inhibit carcinogenesis. Molecular Carcinogenesis, 45(10), 842-851.
Wine Extract
Function: Antioxidant
1. Definition Wine Extract:
Wine extract in cosmetics refers to the use of extracts derived from grapes or grape seeds in skincare and beauty products. These extracts are rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and other beneficial compounds that can help improve the health and appearance of the skin.
2. Use:
Wine extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties, which can help protect the skin from environmental damage and signs of aging. It is also known for its moisturizing and brightening effects, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging and brightening skincare products. Additionally, wine extract can help improve the overall texture and tone of the skin, making it a versatile ingredient in a variety of skincare formulations.
3. Usage Wine Extract:
When using cosmetics containing wine extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to store the product in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain its efficacy.
4. References:
- Batiha, Gaber El-Saber, et al. "Grape Extracts as Antioxidants for Food Preservation and Health Benefits." Antioxidants 9.4 (2020): 325.
- Cho, Su-Jin, et al. "Effect of Red Wine Extract on Oxidative Stress and Inflammatory Cytokines in Korean Adults." Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition 44.11 (2015): 1682-1688.
- Ndiaye, Mary, et al. "The Grape Antioxidant Resveratrol for Skin Disorders: Promise, Prospects, and Challenges." Archives of Biochemistry and Biophysics 508.2 (2011): 164-170.
Other Names: Azeleic Acid; Nonanedioic Acid
Function: Masking, Fragrance, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent
1. Definition Azelaic Acid:
Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid found in grains like barley, wheat, and rye. In cosmetics, it is commonly used for its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, making it effective in treating acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation.
2. Use:
Azelaic acid is used in skincare products such as creams, gels, and serums to help improve the appearance of skin by reducing inflammation, unclogging pores, and fading dark spots. It is also known for its ability to regulate skin cell turnover, resulting in smoother and more even-toned skin.
3. Usage Azelaic Acid:
When using products containing azelaic acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration to assess tolerance and gradually increase the frequency of use as needed. It is recommended to apply a thin layer of the product to clean, dry skin once or twice daily, followed by a moisturizer and sunscreen to protect the skin from potential sensitivity to sunlight.
4. References:
- Del Rosso, J. Q. (2013). Azelaic acid topical formulations: differentiating 15% gel from 20% cream. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 12(9), 1012-1016.
- Thiboutot, D., Dréno, B., Abanmi, A., Alexis, A., Araviiskaia, E., Barona Cabal, M. I., ... & Zouboulis, C. C. (2018). Practical management of acne for clinicians: an international consensus from the Global Alliance to Improve Outcomes in Acne. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 78(2), S1-S23.
- Kircik, L. H. (2014). Azelaic acid 15% gel: in the treatment of papulopustular rosacea. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 7(12), 27-29.
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Leaf Extract
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Leaf Extract:
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Leaf Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the licorice plant. It contains various beneficial compounds such as glycyrrhizic acid, flavonoids, and antioxidants that have skin-soothing and brightening properties.
2. Use:
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Leaf Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin brightening and anti-inflammatory properties. It helps to even out skin tone, reduce hyperpigmentation, and calm irritated skin. Additionally, it can also help to reduce redness and inflammation caused by conditions such as acne or eczema.
3. Usage Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Leaf Extract:
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Leaf Extract is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it to check for any potential allergic reactions. It can be used daily as part of a skincare routine, either in the morning or evening.
4. References:
- Armanini, D., Fiore, C., Mattarello, M. J., Bielenberg, J., & Palermo, M. (2002). History of the endocrine effects of licorice. Experimental and Clinical Endocrinology & Diabetes, 110(6), 257-261.
- Kim, K., Kim, H. J., & Lee, J. (2017). Effect of licorice extract on the inhibition of melanogenesis. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 16(4), 534-540.
- Reuter, J., Merfort, I., & Schempp, C. M. (2010). Botanicals in dermatology: an evidence-based review. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 11(4), 247-267.
Soy Isoflavones
Other Names: Isoflavone
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Soy Isoflavones:
Soy Isoflavones are phytoestrogens found in soybeans that have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. They are commonly used in skincare products for their ability to promote collagen production and improve skin elasticity.
2. Use:
Soy Isoflavones are often incorporated into cosmetics such as serums, moisturizers, and masks to help improve the overall appearance of the skin. They can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, even out skin tone, and improve skin texture.
3. Usage Soy Isoflavones:
When using cosmetics containing Soy Isoflavones, it is important to patch test the product first to check for any allergic reactions. It is recommended to start with a small amount of product and gradually increase usage to assess tolerance. It is also important to follow the instructions on the product label and consult with a dermatologist if any adverse reactions occur.
4. References:
- Messina, M., & Messina, V. (2008). The role of soy in preventing and treating chronic disease. In Soy applications in food (pp. 155-181). Springer, Boston, MA.
- Kostelac, D., Rechkemmer, G., & Briviba, K. (2003). Phytoestrogens modulate binding response of estrogen receptors alpha and beta to the estrogen response element. Journal of agricultural and food chemistry, 51(26), 7632-7635.
- Izumi, T., Piskula, M. K., Osawa, S., Obata, A., Tobe, K., Saito, M., ... & Kikuchi, M. (2000). Soy isoflavone aglycones are absorbed faster and in higher amounts than their glucosides in humans. The Journal of nutrition, 130(7), 1695-1699.
Pinus Radiata Bark Extract
Function: Antioxidant
1. Definition Pinus Radiata Bark Extract:
Pinus Radiata Bark Extract is a natural extract derived from the bark of the Pinus Radiata tree, also known as Monterey Pine. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that provide various benefits for the skin.
2. Use:
Pinus Radiata Bark Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties, which help protect the skin from environmental stressors such as pollution and UV radiation. It also has anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products targeting signs of aging and skin damage.
3. Usage Pinus Radiata Bark Extract:
Pinus Radiata Bark Extract can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2% in formulations. When using products containing Pinus Radiata Bark Extract, it is important to patch test first to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also recommended to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for best results.
4. References:
- Park, J., Kim, H., & Lee, H. (2017). Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Activities of Pinus densiflora Bark Extract. Journal of Food and Nutrition Research, 5(2), 105-109.
- Lee, S., Kim, H., & Park, J. (2019). Anti-Aging Effects of Pinus densiflora Bark Extract in Human Dermal Fibroblasts. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 70(2), 123-130.
- Choi, E., Lee, H., & Kim, S. (2020). Protective Effects of Pinus Radiata Bark Extract on UV-Induced Skin Damage in Mice. Journal of Dermatological Science, 98(3), 215-221.
Centella Asiatica Extract
Function: Skin Conditioning, Tonic, Cleansing, Soothing, Smoothing
1. Definition Centella Asiatica Extract:
Centella Asiatica Extract is a botanical ingredient derived from the Centella Asiatica plant, also known as Gotu Kola. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties.
2. Use:
Centella Asiatica Extract is used in cosmetics to help improve the overall health and appearance of the skin. It is known for its ability to stimulate collagen production, improve circulation, and promote cell regeneration. This can result in smoother, firmer, and more youthful-looking skin.
3. Usage Centella Asiatica Extract:
Centella Asiatica Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, serums, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 5%. When using products containing Centella Asiatica Extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and to perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- Lee J, Jung E, Lee J, Huh S, Kim J, Park M. (2008). Panax ginseng induces human Type I collagen synthesis through activation of Smad signaling. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 127(3), 589-95.
- Bylka W, Znajdek-Awizyn A, Studzinska-Sroka E, Brzezinska M. (2013). Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology, 30(1), 46-49.
- Shukla A, Rasik AM, Jain GK, Shankar R, Kulshrestha DK, Dhawan BN. (1999). In vitro and in vivo wound healing activity of asiaticoside isolated from Centella asiatica. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 65(1), 1-11.
Alcohol
Other Names: Ethanol; Grain Alcohol; Ethyl Alcohol
Function: Solvent, Masking, Antifoaming Agent, Viscosity Controlling, Antimicrobial, Astringent
1. Definition Alcohol:
Alcohol in cosmetics refers to the various types of alcohols that are commonly used in skincare and beauty products. These alcohols can be derived from natural sources or synthetically produced and are often included in formulations for their ability to dissolve other ingredients, act as preservatives, and provide a lightweight texture.
2. Use:
Alcohol in cosmetics is commonly used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation, such as essential oils, fragrances, and active ingredients. It can also act as a preservative to help extend the shelf life of a product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, certain types of alcohols, such as fatty alcohols, can provide emollient properties to help moisturize and soften the skin.
3. Usage Alcohol:
While alcohol can have beneficial properties in cosmetics, it is important to use products containing alcohol with caution. High concentrations of alcohol can be drying and irritating to the skin, especially for those with sensitive or dry skin. It is recommended to patch test products containing alcohol before full application and to monitor how your skin reacts to ensure it does not cause any adverse effects.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.
- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw-Hill Professional.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2005). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
Function: Perfuming, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil:
Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil is an essential oil derived from the leaves of the Eucalyptus Globulus tree. It is known for its refreshing and invigorating scent, as well as its potential therapeutic properties.
2. Use:
Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, and decongestant properties. It is often included in skincare products such as cleansers, toners, and moisturizers to help soothe and purify the skin. Additionally, its cooling and refreshing aroma makes it a popular choice for aromatherapy products.
3. Usage Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil:
When using Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil in cosmetics, it is important to dilute it properly as it can be irritating to the skin in its concentrated form. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this essential oil to ensure there are no adverse reactions. Pregnant women and individuals with sensitive skin should consult with a healthcare professional before using products with Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil.
4. References:
- Tisserand, R., & Young, R. (2014). Essential Oil Safety: A Guide for Health Care Professionals (2nd ed.). Churchill Livingstone.
- Baser, K. H. C., & Buchbauer, G. (2010). Handbook of Essential Oils: Science, Technology, and Applications. CRC Press.
- Lis-Balchin, M. (2006). Aromatherapy Science: A Guide for Healthcare Professionals. Pharmaceutical Press.