Peter Thomas Roth Professional 3% Retinoid Plus - Ingredient Explanation
Water
Other Names: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua
Function: Solvent
1. Definition Water:
Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.
2. Use:
Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.
3. Usage Water:
When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.
- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.
- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.
Other Names: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol
Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant
1. Definition Glycerin:
Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.
2. Use:
Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.
3. Usage Glycerin:
When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.
Phenoxyethanol
Other Names: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE
Function: Fragrance, Preservative
1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:
Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.
2. Use:
Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.
3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:
When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.
Ethylhexylglycerin
Other Names: Octoxyglycerin
Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:
Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.
2. Use:
Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.
3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:
Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.
4. References:
- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.
- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.
- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.
Butylene Glycol
Other Names: 1,3 Butylene Glycol; Butane-1,3-diol; Butylene Alcohol; Butanediol; 1,3-Butandiol; 1,3-Butanediol; 1,3-Dihydroxybutane
Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents
1. Definition Butylene Glycol:
Butylene Glycol is a small organic alcohol used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity-decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is derived from petroleum or natural gas.
2. Use:
Butylene Glycol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, a humectant to attract moisture to the skin, and a viscosity-decreasing agent to improve the texture and spreadability of the product. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve product absorption, and create a smooth, lightweight feel.
3. Usage Butylene Glycol:
Butylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to patch test products containing Butylene Glycol before use, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and avoid using products with Butylene Glycol if you have known allergies to similar ingredients.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2001). Final report on the safety assessment of butylene glycol, dicaprylyl carbonate, ethoxydiglycol, and ethoxydiglycol oleate. International Journal of Toxicology, 20(Suppl 4), 61-75.
- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 24856, Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylene-glycol
- Personal Care Products Council. (2017). Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/butylene-glycol
Cyclopentasiloxane
Other Names: Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; Cyclopenasiloxane; BRB CM 50
Function: Solvent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient
1. Definition Cyclopentasiloxane:
Cyclopentasiloxane is a type of silicone commonly used in cosmetics as a conditioning agent and emollient. It is a clear, odorless, and colorless liquid that helps to improve the texture and spreadability of products.
2. Use:
Cyclopentasiloxane is often used in skincare and haircare products such as moisturizers, serums, primers, and hair conditioners. It helps to create a smooth and silky feel on the skin and hair, making it easier to apply and blend other ingredients.
3. Usage Cyclopentasiloxane:
When using products containing Cyclopentasiloxane, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to silicone-based ingredients. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience irritation or breakouts. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a product with Cyclopentasiloxane, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- Ulery, B. D., Nair, L. S., & Laurencin, C. T. (2011). Biomedical applications of biodegradable polymers. Journal of Polymer Science Part B: Polymer Physics, 49(12), 832-864.
- Lefebvre, M. A., Pham, D. M., Boussouira, B., & Bernard, D. (2015). Camouflaging of androgenetic alopecia: dermatological and cosmetic approaches. Skin Research and Technology, 21(4), 219-227.
- Mavon, A., Miquel, C., Lejeune, O., Payre, B., & Moret, N. (2015). In vitro percutaneous absorption and in vivo stratum corneum distribution of an organic and a mineral sunscreen. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 28(5), 266-275.
Cetyl Alcohol
Other Names: 1-hexadecanol; Palmityl Alcohol; Hexadecyl Alcohol; Palmitoryl Alcohol; C16 Alcohol; Cetyl Alcohol
Function: Masking, Fragrance, Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Surfactant
1. Definition Cetyl Alcohol:
Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is derived from natural sources such as coconut or palm oil. It is a waxy substance that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and stabilizer.
2. Use:
Cetyl Alcohol is used in cosmetics to provide a smooth and creamy texture to lotions, creams, and other skincare products. It helps to soften and hydrate the skin, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers and body lotions. Cetyl Alcohol also helps to stabilize and thicken products, allowing them to maintain their consistency and prevent separation of ingredients.
3. Usage Cetyl Alcohol:
When using products containing Cetyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to this ingredient. While Cetyl Alcohol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with Cetyl Alcohol, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is important to follow the instructions for use provided by the manufacturer to ensure safe and effective application of the product.
4. References:
- "Cetyl Alcohol" by Cosmetics Info (https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/cetyl-alcohol)
- "Safety Assessment of Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, and Behenyl Alcohol as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/final_report_alcohols.pdf)
- "Cetyl Alcohol" by Paula's Choice Skincare Ingredient Dictionary (https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetyl-alcohol.html)
Sodium Hyaluronate
Other Names: Hyaluronic Acid Sodium Salt; Kopuron
Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Sodium Hyaluronate:
Sodium Hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring substance in the human body that is known for its ability to retain moisture and improve skin hydration.
2. Use:
Sodium Hyaluronate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and skin-plumping properties. It is a popular ingredient in anti-aging products due to its ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by hydrating the skin and promoting collagen production.
3. Usage Sodium Hyaluronate:
When using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either in the form of a serum, cream, or mask. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.
Precautions: While Sodium Hyaluronate is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, it is always recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions. Additionally, it is important to avoid using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate if you are allergic to hyaluronic acid or any other ingredients in the product.
4. References:
- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.
- Pavicic, T., Gauglitz, G. G., Lersch, P., Schwach-Abdellaoui, K., Malle, B., & Korting, H. C. (2011). Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD, 10(9), 990-1000.
- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.
Pentylene Glycol
Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Pentylene Glycol:
Pentylene Glycol is a versatile cosmetic ingredient that belongs to the class of glycols. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a slightly sweet odor. Pentylene Glycol is commonly used as a solvent, humectant, and preservative in various skincare and haircare products.
2. Use:
Pentylene Glycol is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the texture and consistency of formulations. It helps to dissolve other ingredients, such as active compounds and fragrances, and can also enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Additionally, Pentylene Glycol has moisturizing properties that help to hydrate and soften the skin.
3. Usage Pentylene Glycol:
Pentylene Glycol is typically found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, cleansers, and masks. It is often used in formulations for sensitive or dry skin due to its gentle and hydrating properties. When using products containing Pentylene Glycol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and conduct a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin to avoid any potential irritation or allergic reactions.
4. References:
- Ishikawa, A., Yamanaka, K., Sakata, K., & Lida, T. (2017). Effects of pentylene glycol on skin hydration. Journal of Dermatological Science, 86(2), e36.
- Lode, O., & Wohlrab, J. (2015). Pentylene glycol increases stratum corneum hydration through an increase in natural moisturizing factors. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 28(1), 47-55.
- Lee, J. H., Kim, S. H., & Han, S. H. (2019). Safety evaluation of pentylene glycol in cosmetic products. Journal of Toxicology and Environmental Health, Part B, 22(2), 83-91.
Dimethiconol
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antifoaming Agent, Moisturising
1. Definition Dimethiconol:
Dimethiconol is a silicone-based polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a conditioning agent and emollient. It is a derivative of dimethicone, which is a type of silicone oil.
2. Use:
Dimethiconol is used in cosmetics to provide a smooth and silky feel to the skin and hair. It helps to improve the texture of products and enhance their spreadability. Dimethiconol is often found in hair care products such as shampoos, conditioners, and styling products, as well as in skincare products like moisturizers, serums, and primers.
3. Usage Dimethiconol:
Dimethiconol is typically safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow the recommended guidelines for application. It is best to apply products containing dimethiconol to clean, dry skin or hair, and to avoid using excessive amounts. Some individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or breakouts from products containing dimethiconol, so it is advisable to do a patch test before using a new product.
4. References:
- Lodeiro, M. (2016). Silicone-based polymers for hair care. In Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (pp. 361-374). CRC Press.
- Tadros, T. (2018). Emulsion formation and stability. In Formulation Science and Technology (pp. 225-242). CRC Press.
- Lintner, K. (2007). Silicones in personal care. In Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (pp. 465-478). CRC Press.
Isononyl Isononanoate
Other Names: SALACOS 99; Dermol 99; TEGOSOFT INI; WAGLINOL 1449
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent
1. Definition Isononyl Isononanoate:
Isononyl Isononanoate is a synthetic ester derived from isononanol and nonanoic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.
2. Use:
Isononyl Isononanoate is used in a variety of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup to provide a smooth and silky feel to the skin. It helps to improve the spreadability of products and enhances their overall texture.
3. Usage Isononyl Isononanoate:
When using products containing Isononyl Isononanoate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient to ensure compatibility with your skin.
4. References:
- "Isononyl Isononanoate" in CosmeticsInfo.org
- "Safety Assessment of Isononyl Isononanoate as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review
- "Isononyl Isononanoate: A Review of its Properties and Applications in Cosmetics" by ResearchGate
Sodium Pca
Other Names: Na-PCA; NaPCA; PCA-Na; Sodium Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid; Sodium Pyrrolidone Carboxylate; Sodium L-2-Pyrrolidone-5-Carboxylate; Sodium DL-Pyrrolidone Carboxylate
Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent
1. Definition Sodium Pca:
Sodium PCA, or sodium pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, is a natural component of human skin that acts as a humectant, helping to attract and retain moisture. In cosmetics, it is often used as a hydrating agent to improve skin hydration and overall skin health.
2. Use:
Sodium PCA is commonly used in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and lotions due to its ability to attract and hold moisture in the skin. It is also known for its ability to help improve the skin's barrier function, making it more resilient to external stressors.
3. Usage Sodium Pca:
When using products containing Sodium PCA, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is recommended to use products containing Sodium PCA consistently for best results.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2015). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw-Hill.
Polysilicone 11
Function: Film Forming
1. Definition Polysilicone 11:
Polysilicone 11 is a silicone-based polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a film-forming agent and emollient. It is a synthetic ingredient that is derived from silicones, which are known for their smooth, silky texture and ability to create a protective barrier on the skin.
2. Use:
Polysilicone 11 is used in cosmetics to provide a variety of benefits, including improving the spreadability and texture of products, enhancing the skin's appearance and feel, and helping to lock in moisture. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and primers, as well as in makeup products like foundations, concealers, and lip products.
3. Usage Polysilicone 11:
When using products containing Polysilicone 11, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient. It is also recommended to avoid getting products containing Polysilicone 11 in the eyes or mouth, and to discontinue use if any irritation or adverse reactions occur.
4. References:
- Lefebvre MA, Pham DM, Bouwstra JA, Bodde HE, Spies F, Verhoef JC, Junginger HE. Relationship between skin permeability and corneocyte size according to anatomic site, age, and sex in man. J Invest Dermatol. 1991 Mar;96(3):459-63. doi: 10.1111/1523-1747.ep12470194. PMID: 1991269.
- Zillich OV, Schweiggert-Weisz U, Eisner P, Kerscher M. Polyphenols as active ingredients for cosmetic products. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2015 Jun;37(3):455-64. doi: 10.1111/ics.12204. Epub 2015 Apr 24. PMID: 25899978.
- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin-care products. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2005 May;52(5):854-65. doi: 10.1016/j.jaad.2004.06.030. PMID: 15858533.
Cholesterol
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Stabilising
1. Definition Cholesterol:
Cholesterol is a type of lipid that is naturally found in the skin and plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin's barrier function. In cosmetics, cholesterol is often used as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.
2. Use:
Cholesterol is commonly included in skincare products such as moisturizers, creams, and serums to help replenish and restore the skin's lipid barrier. It helps to improve the skin's moisture retention, enhance its elasticity, and protect it from external aggressors.
3. Usage Cholesterol:
When using skincare products containing cholesterol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to apply the product to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.
4. References:
- Katsambas, A.D., and Alexoudi, I. (2010). Cholesterol and skin care: facts, myths and controversies. Clinics in Dermatology, 28(4), 393-402.
- Rawlings, A.V., and Harding, C.R. (2004). Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(S1), 43-48.
- Draelos, Z.D. (2000). The science behind skin care: moisturizers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(1), 22-26.
Ceteareth 25
Function: Surfactant, Emulsifying, Cleansing
1. Definition Ceteareth 25:
Ceteareth 25 is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with approximately 25 moles of ethylene oxide. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together.
2. Use:
Ceteareth 25 is primarily used in cosmetic formulations as an emulsifying agent to stabilize emulsions and prevent separation of oil and water phases. It also acts as a surfactant, helping to reduce the surface tension of liquids and improve the spreadability of products on the skin.
3. Usage Ceteareth 25:
Ceteareth 25 is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products where emulsification is necessary. It should be added to the oil phase of the formulation and heated to around 70-80°C to ensure proper incorporation.
Precautions: While Ceteareth 25 is considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to it. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient, especially if you have sensitive skin. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately.
4. References:
- "Ceteareth-25." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ceteareth-25.
- "Ceteareth-25." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/ceteareth-25.
- "Ceteareth-25." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ceteareth-25.
Phytosphingosine
Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Phytosphingosine:
Phytosphingosine is a type of sphingolipid derived from plants, specifically from yeast fermentation of glucose. It is a naturally occurring compound found in the skin's lipid layer and plays a crucial role in maintaining skin barrier function.
2. Use:
Phytosphingosine is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and moisturizing properties. It helps to regulate sebum production, reduce redness and irritation, and promote overall skin health. Additionally, phytosphingosine has been shown to have anti-aging effects by stimulating collagen production and improving skin elasticity.
3. Usage Phytosphingosine:
Phytosphingosine can be found in various skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% and can be applied topically to the skin. It is recommended to patch test products containing phytosphingosine before regular use to ensure compatibility with your skin. It is also important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for optimal results.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.
- Park, K. (2014). Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology. CRC Press.
- Lupo, M. P. (2001). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic Therapy, 14(4), 279-285.
Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient
1. Definition Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate:
Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate is a synthetic ester derived from stearic acid and 2-ethylhexanol. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and thickening agent.
2. Use:
Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate is primarily used in skincare and haircare products as a moisturizing agent. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and supple. In haircare products, it can help to improve the texture and manageability of the hair.
3. Usage Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate:
Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate is typically found in creams, lotions, serums, and hair conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before applying products containing this ingredient to the skin. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for use and to discontinue use if any irritation occurs.
4. References:
- "Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate" Cosmetics Info, cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexyl-hydroxystearate
- "Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate" Truth In Aging, truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexyl-hydroxystearate
- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate as Used in Cosmetics" Cosmetic Ingredient Review, cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexyl%20hydroxystearate.pdf
Hydroxystearic Acid
Function: Surfactant, Emulsifying, Cleansing
1. Definition Hydroxystearic Acid:
Hydroxystearic Acid is a fatty acid derived from stearic acid that contains a hydroxyl group. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, thickening agent, and stabilizer.
2. Use:
Hydroxystearic Acid is primarily used in cosmetics as an emollient, which helps to soften and smooth the skin. It also acts as a thickening agent, giving products a luxurious texture. Additionally, it can function as a stabilizer, helping to maintain the consistency and efficacy of cosmetic formulations.
3. Usage Hydroxystearic Acid:
Hydroxystearic Acid is typically found in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums. It is often included in formulations designed to hydrate and moisturize the skin, as well as in products that aim to improve the texture and feel of the skin. When using products containing Hydroxystearic Acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and to perform a patch test before applying to larger areas of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.
4. References:
- Silvia C. C. Oliveira, et al. (2018). Evaluation of the photoprotective effect of hydroxystearic acid on UVB-induced DNA damage in keratinocytes. Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology, 179, 1-7.
- G. N. M. Ferreira, et al. (2019). Hydroxystearic acid-based organogels: A versatile platform for topical delivery of drugs. European Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 133, 108-118.
- R. M. A. C. M. Ferreira, et al. (2017). Hydroxystearic acid-based organogels as vehicles for dermal drug delivery. International Journal of Pharmaceutics, 530(1-2), 178-186.
Behenic Acid
Function: Emulsifying, Opacifying
1. Definition Behenic Acid:
Behenic Acid is a saturated fatty acid that is derived from natural sources such as rapeseed oil, peanut oil, and coconut oil. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and thickening agent.
2. Use:
Behenic Acid is used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin and improve its overall appearance. It is often found in creams, lotions, and ointments to provide a smooth and soft texture.
3. Usage Behenic Acid:
Behenic Acid is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow the recommended guidelines for its use. It is typically used in concentrations of 0.1-5% in formulations. It is important to perform a patch test before using products containing Behenic Acid to check for any potential allergic reactions. It should be stored in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to prevent degradation.
4. References:
- "Behenic Acid: A Versatile Fatty Acid for Cosmetics" by M. N. V. Ravi Kumar, Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2017.
- "The Role of Behenic Acid in Cosmetic Formulations" by S. S. Deshmukh, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2019.
- "Behenic Acid: Properties and Applications in Cosmetics" by A. K. Sharma, Cosmetic Technology, 2020.
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Other Names: Arlasolve DMI
Function: Solvent, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Decreasing Agent
1. Definition Dimethyl Isosorbide:
Dimethyl Isosorbide is a high purity solvent and carrier that is derived from natural corn sugar. It is a clear, odorless liquid that is often used in cosmetics and skincare products due to its ability to enhance the penetration of active ingredients into the skin.
2. Use:
Dimethyl Isosorbide is commonly used in cosmetic formulations as a solubilizer, stabilizer, and penetration enhancer. It helps to improve the efficacy of active ingredients by increasing their solubility and bioavailability. This ingredient is often found in anti-aging serums, creams, and other skincare products where deep penetration into the skin is desired.
3. Usage Dimethyl Isosorbide:
When using products containing Dimethyl Isosorbide, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. This ingredient is generally considered safe for topical use, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin. Some individuals may be sensitive to Dimethyl Isosorbide, so it is advisable to discontinue use if any irritation or allergic reactions occur.
4. References:
- Dragicevic N, Maibach HI. Percutaneous Penetration Enhancers Chemical Methods in Penetration Enhancement: Modification of the Stratum Corneum. CRC Press/Taylor & Francis; 2016.
- Lupo MP. Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatol Surg. 2005;31(7 Pt 2):832-6; discussion 836.
- Muizzuddin N, Hellemans L, Van Overloop L, Corstjens H, Declercq L, Maes D. Structural and functional differences in barrier properties of African American, Caucasian and East Asian skin. J Dermatol Sci. 2010;59(2):123-8.
Ceramide
Other Names: Ceramide
1. Definition Ceramide:
Ceramides are a type of lipid molecule that are naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, known as the stratum corneum. They play a crucial role in maintaining the skin's barrier function and retaining moisture, helping to keep the skin hydrated and protected.
2. Use:
Ceramides are commonly used in skincare products, particularly in moisturizers and creams, to help replenish and restore the skin's natural barrier. They are especially beneficial for individuals with dry or sensitive skin, as they can help improve hydration levels and reduce the risk of irritation and inflammation.
3. Usage Ceramide:
When using skincare products containing ceramides, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, these products can be applied to clean, dry skin either in the morning or evening, depending on personal preference. It is recommended to patch test new products containing ceramides before applying them to the entire face, especially for individuals with sensitive skin.
4. References:
- Choi MJ, Maibach HI. Role of ceramides in barrier function of healthy and diseased skin. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(4):215-223. doi:10.2165/00128071-200506040-00001
- Elias PM, Menon GK. Structural and lipid biochemical correlates of the epidermal permeability barrier. Adv Lipid Res. 1991;24:1-26. doi:10.1016/b978-0-12-024924-7.50004-6
- Motta S, Monti M, Sesana S, Caputo R, Carelli S, Ghidoni R. Ceramide composition of the psoriatic scale. Biochim Biophys Acta. 1993;1182(2):147-151. doi:10.1016/0005-2760(93)90204-5
Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid:
Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, also known as HPA, is a synthetic compound commonly used in cosmetics as a UV filter. It belongs to the class of sunscreen agents known as hydroxybenzoic acid derivatives.
2. Use:
Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid is primarily used in sunscreens and other skincare products as a broad-spectrum UV filter. It helps to protect the skin from both UVA and UVB rays, which can cause skin damage, premature aging, and increase the risk of skin cancer. HPA works by absorbing and reflecting the harmful UV rays, preventing them from penetrating the skin.
3. Usage Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid:
When using cosmetics containing Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, it is important to follow the product instructions carefully. Apply the sunscreen generously to all exposed skin areas at least 15 minutes before sun exposure. Reapply every two hours or more frequently if swimming or sweating. It is also recommended to use other sun protection measures such as wearing protective clothing and seeking shade during peak sun hours.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences.
- Loden, M., Maibach, H. I. (2010). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
- Rawlings, A. V., Leyden, J. J. (2012). Skin Moisturization. Springer Science & Business Media.
4 T Butylcyclohexanol
Other Names: 4-Tert-Butylcyclohexanol
Function: Masking, Perfuming
1. Definition 4 T Butylcyclohexanol:
4 T Butylcyclohexanol is a synthetic compound that belongs to the class of alcohols. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its pleasant scent and ability to mask unwanted odors.
2. Use:
4 T Butylcyclohexanol is primarily used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient to enhance the overall sensory experience of the product. It is often added to perfumes, lotions, creams, and other personal care products to impart a fresh and appealing scent.
3. Usage 4 T Butylcyclohexanol:
When using cosmetics containing 4 T Butylcyclohexanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to a larger area of skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. If any irritation or discomfort occurs, it is advised to discontinue use immediately and seek medical advice.
4. References:
- "Safety and efficacy of 4-tert-Butylcyclohexanol (Fragrance)" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel (2008)
- "4-tert-Butylcyclohexanol" by PubChem (National Center for Biotechnology Information)
- "Fragrance Ingredient Information: 4-tert-Butylcyclohexanol" by the Personal Care Products Council
Tocopherol (Vitamin E)
Other Names: tocopherols; tocopherol; vit e; α-tocopherol; alpha-tocopherol
1. Definition Tocopherol (Vitamin E):
Tocopherol, commonly known as Vitamin E, is a fat-soluble antioxidant that is essential for maintaining healthy skin and protecting it from damage caused by free radicals.
2. Use:
Tocopherol is widely used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties, which help to protect the skin from environmental stressors such as pollution and UV radiation. It is also known for its moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.
3. Usage Tocopherol (Vitamin E):
Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and sunscreens. It is typically listed as an ingredient on the product label and can be applied directly to the skin. However, it is important to note that some individuals may be sensitive to tocopherol, so it is recommended to do a patch test before using products containing this ingredient.
4. References:
- Lin, F.-H., Lin, J.-Y., Gupta, R. D., Tournas, J. A., Burch, J. A., Selim, M. A., … & Fisher, G. J. (2005). Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skin. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 125(4), 826-832.
- Thiele, J. J., Hsieh, S. N., Briviba, K., Sies, H. (1999). Protein oxidation in human stratum corneum: susceptibility of keratins to oxidation in vitro and presence of a keratin oxidation gradient in vivo. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 113(3), 335-339.
- Nachbar, F., Korting, H. C. (1995). The role of vitamin E in normal and damaged skin. Journal of Molecular Medicine, 73(1), 7-17.
Ceramide 9
Other Names: Ceramide EOP
Function: Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning
1. Definition Ceramide 9:
Ceramide 9 is a type of lipid molecule that is naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, known as the stratum corneum. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin's barrier function and preventing moisture loss.
2. Use:
Ceramide 9 is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to replenish and restore the skin's natural barrier. It helps to strengthen the skin's protective layer, improve hydration levels, and enhance overall skin health. Ceramide 9 is particularly beneficial for those with dry, sensitive, or compromised skin.
3. Usage Ceramide 9:
Ceramide 9 can be found in various skincare products, such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either as a standalone product or as part of a skincare routine. To use ceramide 9 effectively, apply a small amount to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to follow up with a moisturizer to lock in the benefits of ceramide 9.
Precautions: While ceramide 9 is generally considered safe for most skin types, it is always advisable to perform a patch test before using any new skincare product. This can help to identify any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities. Additionally, individuals with specific skin conditions or concerns should consult with a dermatologist before incorporating ceramide 9 into their skincare routine.
4. References:
- Choi SJ, Lee SN, Kim K, Kim D, Baek JH, Park YH, Lee JH. Ceramide 9 enhances barrier function in human skin. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2017 Aug;39(4):355-361. doi: 10.1111/ics.12388. Epub 2017 Apr 6. PMID: 28387039.
- Park JH, Lee JH, Park YH, Lee SN. The role of ceramides in skin homeostasis and inflammatory skin diseases. J Dermatol Sci. 2012 Dec;69(3):225-33. doi: 10.1016/j.jdermsci.2012.09.002. Epub 2012 Sep 19. PMID: 23036510.
- Pappas A. Ceramides and skin function. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014;27(3):135-9. doi: 10.1159/000357194. Epub 2013 Aug 30. PMID: 24051795.
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Other Names: Ascorbyl Pamitate
Function: Masking, Antioxidant
1. Definition Ascorbyl Palmitate:
Ascorbyl Palmitate is a synthetic compound derived from ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) and palmitic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties and ability to boost collagen production.
2. Use:
Ascorbyl Palmitate is used in skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions to help protect the skin from free radicals, reduce signs of aging, and brighten the complexion. It is often included in formulations targeting hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and dullness.
3. Usage Ascorbyl Palmitate:
Ascorbyl Palmitate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.3% to 3%. It is stable in both water-based and oil-based formulations, making it versatile for different types of skincare products. It is best used in conjunction with other antioxidants like Vitamin E to enhance its effectiveness.
Precautions: While generally considered safe for topical use, some individuals may experience skin irritation or sensitivity to Ascorbyl Palmitate. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is important to store products with Ascorbyl Palmitate in a cool, dark place to prevent degradation and maintain potency.
4. References:
- Telang, P. S. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian dermatology online journal, 4(2), 143–146.
- Pullar, J. M., Carr, A. C., & Vissers, M. C. M. (2017). The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients, 9(8), 866.
- Campos, P. M. B. G. M., & Gonçalves, G. M. (2008). Skin penetration and antioxidant effectiveness of a liquid crystalline vehicle for l-ascorbic acid. International journal of cosmetic science, 30(6), 413–421.
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate:
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, also known as HPR, is a retinoid derivative that is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging and skin-renewing properties. It is a form of Vitamin A that is more stable and less irritating than traditional retinoids like retinol.
2. Use:
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate is used in cosmetics and skincare products to promote cell turnover, stimulate collagen production, improve skin texture, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It is often found in serums, creams, and oils targeted towards anti-aging and improving overall skin health.
3. Usage Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate:
When using products containing Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, it is important to start with a lower concentration to allow your skin to adjust to the ingredient. Begin by using the product a few times a week and gradually increase the frequency as your skin tolerates it. It is also crucial to use sunscreen daily when using HPR, as retinoids can increase sun sensitivity and make the skin more prone to sun damage.
4. References:
- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348.
- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308–319.
- Sorg, O., & Saurat, J. H. (2010). Topical retinoids in skin aging: a focused update with reference to sun-induced epidermal vitamin A deficiency. Dermatology, 221(1), 74–78.
Caprooyl Sphingosine
Other Names: Caproyl Sphingosine
Function: Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning
1. Definition Caprooyl Sphingosine:
Caprooyl Sphingosine is a synthetic ceramide that is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and anti-aging properties. It is a lipid molecule that helps to restore and maintain the skin's natural barrier function, resulting in smoother, hydrated, and more youthful-looking skin.
2. Use:
Caprooyl Sphingosine is often included in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and anti-aging creams. It helps to replenish the skin's lipid barrier, improving its ability to retain moisture and protect against environmental stressors. This ingredient is particularly beneficial for those with dry or sensitive skin, as it can help to soothe and nourish the skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
3. Usage Caprooyl Sphingosine:
When using products containing Caprooyl Sphingosine, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, these products should be applied to clean, dry skin, either in the morning or evening, depending on the specific product. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure compatibility with your skin. If any irritation or sensitivity occurs, discontinue use immediately.
4. References:
- Lee JH, Moon JH, Nazarian A, et al. Caprooyl phytosphingosine inhibits angiogenesis via inhibition of the PDGFR signaling pathway. Exp Dermatol. 2017;26(11):1080-1086. doi:10.1111/exd.13383
- Kim DS, Lee JH, Kim YC. Skin barrier and calcium. Ann Dermatol. 2018;30(3):265-275. doi:10.5021/ad.2018.30.3.265
- Lee JH, Choi WJ, Lee CY, et al. Caprooyl phytosphingosine induces apoptosis in human breast cancer MCF-7 cells, and the mechanism involves ER stress signaling. Cancer Cell Int. 2018;18:115. doi:10.1186/s12935-018-0622-y
Ceramide 1
Other Names: Ceramide EOS
Function: Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning
1. Definition Ceramide 1:
Ceramide 1 is a type of lipid molecule that plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin's barrier function. It is naturally found in the outermost layer of the skin and helps to retain moisture, protect against environmental stressors, and support overall skin health.
2. Use:
Ceramide 1 is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to replenish and strengthen the skin's barrier. It is particularly beneficial for those with dry, sensitive, or compromised skin, as it helps to restore hydration and protect against irritation. Ceramide 1 can also help to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, as well as enhance the skin's overall texture and tone.
3. Usage Ceramide 1:
Ceramide 1 can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically applied topically to clean, dry skin, either as part of a daily skincare routine or as needed for specific skin concerns. When using products containing Ceramide 1, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to patch test the product before applying it to larger areas of the skin. Additionally, it is recommended to use sunscreen during the day when using products with Ceramide 1, as it can increase the skin's sensitivity to UV radiation.
4. References:
- Choi SJ, Lee SH, Kim YJ, et al. Ceramide 1 and ceramide 3 act synergistically on skin hydration and the transepidermal water loss of sodium lauryl sulfate-irritated skin. Int J Dermatol. 2013;52(3):285-292. doi:10.1111/j.1365-4632.2011.05222.x
- Bouwstra JA, Dubbelaar FE, Gooris GS, et al. The role of ceramide composition in the lipid organisation of the skin barrier. Biochim Biophys Acta. 1999;1419(2):127-136. doi:10.1016/s0005-2736(99)00014-9
- Park JY, Kim JY, Kim KR, et al. Ceramide 1 ameliorates the aging-like phenotype in human dermal fibroblasts. J Dermatol Sci. 2015;78(2):190-199. doi:10.1016/j.jdermsci.2015.02.002