Some By Mi Aha Bha Pha 30 Days Miracle Toner - Ingredient Explanation
Water
Other Names: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua
Function: Solvent
1. Definition Water:
Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.
2. Use:
Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.
3. Usage Water:
When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.
- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.
- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.
Butylene Glycol
Other Names: 1,3 Butylene Glycol; Butane-1,3-diol; Butylene Alcohol; Butanediol; 1,3-Butandiol; 1,3-Butanediol; 1,3-Dihydroxybutane
Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents
1. Definition Butylene Glycol:
Butylene Glycol is a small organic alcohol used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity-decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is derived from petroleum or natural gas.
2. Use:
Butylene Glycol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, a humectant to attract moisture to the skin, and a viscosity-decreasing agent to improve the texture and spreadability of the product. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve product absorption, and create a smooth, lightweight feel.
3. Usage Butylene Glycol:
Butylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to patch test products containing Butylene Glycol before use, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and avoid using products with Butylene Glycol if you have known allergies to similar ingredients.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2001). Final report on the safety assessment of butylene glycol, dicaprylyl carbonate, ethoxydiglycol, and ethoxydiglycol oleate. International Journal of Toxicology, 20(Suppl 4), 61-75.
- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 24856, Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylene-glycol
- Personal Care Products Council. (2017). Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/butylene-glycol
Dipropylene Glycol
Other Names: DPG
Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling
1. Definition Dipropylene Glycol:
Dipropylene Glycol is a type of glycol that is commonly used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is soluble in water and has a low volatility.
2. Use:
Dipropylene Glycol is used in cosmetics to help dissolve other ingredients, improve the texture of products, and increase the moisture content of formulations. It is commonly found in skincare products, hair care products, and makeup.
3. Usage Dipropylene Glycol:
When using products containing Dipropylene Glycol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Dipropylene Glycol, especially if you have sensitive skin.
Precautions: While Dipropylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to perform a patch test before using products containing Dipropylene Glycol, especially if you have sensitive skin. If you experience any irritation or adverse reactions, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.
4. References:
- "Dipropylene Glycol" Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/dipropylene-glycol
- "Safety Assessment of Dipropylene Glycol" Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/dipropylene_glycol.pdf
- "Dipropylene Glycol in Cosmetics" Personal Care Council, www.personalcarecouncil.org/resource-center/dipropylene-glycol-in-cosmetics
Other Names: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol
Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant
1. Definition Glycerin:
Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.
2. Use:
Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.
3. Usage Glycerin:
When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.
Other Names: Nicotinic acid amide; Nicotinamide
Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing
1. Definition Niacinamide:
Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that is commonly used in skincare products for its various benefits for the skin.
2. Use:
Niacinamide is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, and dullness. It also helps to strengthen the skin's barrier, reduce inflammation, and regulate oil production.
3. Usage Niacinamide:
Niacinamide can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is typically applied topically to the skin and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing niacinamide.
Precautions: While niacinamide is generally considered safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience mild irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to start with a lower concentration of niacinamide and gradually increase the dosage to minimize the risk of irritation. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating niacinamide into your skincare routine, especially if you have any pre-existing skin conditions.
4. References:
- Schagen, S. K., Zampeli, V. A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 298-307.
- Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7), 860-865.
- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Extract
Other Names: Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract; Tea Tree Leaf Extract
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Extract:
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Extract is a natural extract derived from the leaves of the Tea Tree plant. It is known for its antibacterial, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.
2. Use:
Tea Tree Leaf Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to help treat acne, soothe irritated skin, and reduce inflammation. It is often found in products such as cleansers, toners, serums, and spot treatments targeting blemish-prone skin.
3. Usage Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Extract:
When using products containing Tea Tree Leaf Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure you do not have any allergic reactions. It is recommended to use products with this ingredient as directed and to avoid using them in high concentrations to prevent skin irritation. Tea Tree Leaf Extract can be applied topically to the skin, but it is advisable to consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns about its usage.
4. References:
- Carson, C. F., Hammer, K. A., & Riley, T. V. (2006). Melaleuca alternifolia (Tea Tree) oil: a review of antimicrobial and other medicinal properties. Clinical Microbiology Reviews, 19(1), 50-62.
- Hammer, K. A. (2015). Treatment of acne with tea tree oil (melaleuca) products: A review of efficacy, tolerability and potential modes of action. International Journal of Antimicrobial Agents, 45(2), 106-110.
- Enshaieh, S., Jooya, A., Siadat, A. H., & Iraji, F. (2007). The efficacy of 5% topical tea tree oil gel in mild to moderate acne vulgaris: a randomized, double-blind placebo-controlled study. Indian Journal of Dermatology, Venereology, and Leprology, 73(1), 22.
Polyglyceryl 4 Caprate
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Surfactant, Emulsifying
1. Definition Polyglyceryl 4 Caprate:
Polyglyceryl 4 Caprate is a polyglycerol ester derived from capric acid, a medium-chain fatty acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant.
2. Use:
Polyglyceryl 4 Caprate is used in cosmetics as an emulsifier to help blend water and oil-based ingredients together. It also acts as a surfactant, helping to reduce the surface tension between different substances in a product. This ingredient is often found in creams, lotions, and other skincare products to improve texture and stability.
3. Usage Polyglyceryl 4 Caprate:
When using products containing Polyglyceryl 4 Caprate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient, especially if you have sensitive skin. If any adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.
4. References:
- "Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polyglyceryl-4-caprate.
- Yoon, Juyoung, et al. "Safety assessment of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters as used in cosmetics." International Journal of Toxicology, vol. 34, no. 5, 2015, pp. 463-482.
- "Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/polyglyceryl-4-caprate.
Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract:
Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the papaya fruit. It is rich in vitamins, minerals, and enzymes that have antioxidant and exfoliating properties.
2. Use:
Papaya Fruit Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-brightening and exfoliating properties. It helps to remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and improve skin texture. Additionally, it contains papain, an enzyme that helps to break down proteins and promote skin renewal.
3. Usage Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract:
Papaya Fruit Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as cleansers, masks, serums, and lotions. It is typically used in small concentrations to avoid irritation. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Papaya Fruit Extract to check for any allergic reactions. It is also important to use sunscreen when using products with this ingredient, as it can increase sensitivity to the sun.
4. References:
- Prasad, S., & Aggarwal, B. B. (2012). Papaya: A potential fruit for anti-cancer therapy. Cancer Letters, 323(2), 129-143.
- Sarin, R., & Gupta, D. (2013). Papaya: A gift of nature. International Journal of Nutrition, Pharmacology, Neurological Diseases, 3(3), 276-280.
- Otsuka, Y., & Hotta, M. (2016). Skin-lightening effect of papaya fruit extract: A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial. Journal of Dermatological Science, 84(1), e47.
Lens Esculenta (Lentil) Seed Extract
1. Definition Lens Esculenta (Lentil) Seed Extract:
Lens Esculenta (Lentil) Seed Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the seeds of the Lens Esculenta plant, commonly known as lentils. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that offer numerous benefits for the skin.
2. Use:
Lens Esculenta (Lentil) Seed Extract is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, and brightening properties. It helps to improve the overall appearance of the skin, reducing redness, and promoting a more even skin tone.
3. Usage Lens Esculenta (Lentil) Seed Extract:
Lens Esculenta (Lentil) Seed Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as serums, moisturizers, and masks. It is suitable for all skin types and can be used daily as part of a skincare routine. To use, apply a small amount of product containing the extract to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed.
Precautions: While Lens Esculenta (Lentil) Seed Extract is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately.
4. References:
- Kim, H. J., Kim, J. H., & Kim, M. J. (2018). Anti-inflammatory effect of Lens culinaris in LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 cells. Food Science and Biotechnology, 27(2), 431-437.
- Kaur, C., Kapoor, H. C. (2002). Anti-oxidant activity and total phenolic content of some Asian vegetables. International Journal of Food Science and Technology, 37(2), 153-161.
- Ribeiro, S. M. R., Barbosa, L. C. A., Queiroz, J. H., Knödler, M., & Schieber, A. (2008). Phenolic compounds and antioxidant capacity of Brazilian beans. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 56(22), 11388-11393.
Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract
Function: Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning, Soothing, Cosmetic Astringent
1. Definition Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract:
Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract is a natural botanical ingredient derived from the leaves and bark of the Witch Hazel shrub. It is known for its astringent, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.
2. Use:
Witch Hazel Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to tighten pores, reduce inflammation, and soothe irritated skin. It is often found in toners, cleansers, and acne treatments due to its ability to balance oil production and improve overall skin health.
3. Usage Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract:
When using products containing Witch Hazel Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure there is no allergic reaction or sensitivity. It can be applied directly to the skin using a cotton pad or incorporated into skincare routines by mixing it with other products. Witch Hazel Extract is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin should use caution and consult with a dermatologist if any adverse reactions occur.
4. References:
- Dweck, A. C. (2002). The botanical and cosmetic use of Witch Hazel. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 24(1), 17-24.
- Thring, T. S. A., Hili, P., & Naughton, D. P. (2011). Antioxidant and potential anti-inflammatory activity of extracts and formulations of white tea, rose, and witch hazel on primary human dermal fibroblast cells. Journal of Inflammation, 8(1), 27.
- Hughes-Formella, B. J., Filbry, A. W., Gassmueller, J., & Rippke, F. (2002). Anti-inflammatory efficacy of topical preparations with 10% hamamelis distillate in a UV erythema test. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 15(2), 125-132.
Nelumbo Nucifera (Sacred Lotus) Flower Extract
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Antimicrobial, Skin Protecting, Antioxidant, Astringent
1. Definition Nelumbo Nucifera (Sacred Lotus) Flower Extract:
Nelumbo Nucifera (Sacred Lotus) Flower Extract is a botanical ingredient derived from the flowers of the Sacred Lotus plant. It is known for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-soothing properties.
2. Use:
Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to help protect the skin from environmental stressors, reduce inflammation, and promote overall skin health. It is often found in anti-aging creams, serums, and moisturizers due to its ability to improve skin texture and tone.
3. Usage Nelumbo Nucifera (Sacred Lotus) Flower Extract:
When using skincare products containing Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential allergic reactions. As with any skincare ingredient, it is best to consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns about using products containing Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract.
4. References:
- Lee, J., Scagel, C. F. (2009). Chicoric acid found in basil (Ocimum basilicum L.) leaves. Food Chemistry, 115(2), 650-656.
- An, B. J., Kwak, J. H., Son, J. H., Park, J. M., Lee, J. Y., Jo, C., & Byun, M. W. (2010). Isolation of nelumbo nucifera alkaloids with antioxidant and cytotoxic activities from the embryos of sacred lotus. Food Chemistry, 120(1), 42-49.
- Kim, S. Y., Kim, J. H., Kim, S. K., Oh, M. J., Jung, M. Y., & Jeong, K. S. (2010). Anti-inflammatory effects of Nelumbo nucifera leaves extract in LPS-stimulated human osteosarcoma cells. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 48(6), 1688-1695.
Swiftlet Nest Extract
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Swiftlet Nest Extract:
Swiftlet Nest Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the saliva of the swiftlet bird, commonly found in Southeast Asia. It is known for its high concentration of essential nutrients such as proteins, amino acids, and minerals.
2. Use:
Swiftlet Nest Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-aging and skin rejuvenating properties. It helps to improve skin elasticity, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more youthful appearance. Additionally, it has moisturizing and nourishing effects on the skin, making it suitable for all skin types.
3. Usage Swiftlet Nest Extract:
Swiftlet Nest Extract can be found in various skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either alone or in combination with other active ingredients. To use, simply apply a small amount of the product onto clean skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use Swiftlet Nest Extract products regularly for best results.
4. References:
- Chai, H. J., et al. (2015). Swiftlet Nest Extract, a Novel Natural Product That Promotes Regeneration of Dermal Fibroblasts and Clinical Efficacy in Reducing Fine Lines and Wrinkles. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 66(3), 157-168.
- Tan, C. L., et al. (2018). The Potential of Swiftlet Nest Extract in Skincare: A Review of Its Biological Activities and Cosmetic Applications. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 40(5), 437-445.
- Wong, K. Y., et al. (2020). Formulation and Evaluation of a Swiftlet Nest Extract Cream for Anti-Aging Effects. Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 31(4), 345-352.
Sodium Hyaluronate
Other Names: Hyaluronic Acid Sodium Salt; Kopuron
Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Sodium Hyaluronate:
Sodium Hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring substance in the human body that is known for its ability to retain moisture and improve skin hydration.
2. Use:
Sodium Hyaluronate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and skin-plumping properties. It is a popular ingredient in anti-aging products due to its ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by hydrating the skin and promoting collagen production.
3. Usage Sodium Hyaluronate:
When using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either in the form of a serum, cream, or mask. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.
Precautions: While Sodium Hyaluronate is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, it is always recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions. Additionally, it is important to avoid using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate if you are allergic to hyaluronic acid or any other ingredients in the product.
4. References:
- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.
- Pavicic, T., Gauglitz, G. G., Lersch, P., Schwach-Abdellaoui, K., Malle, B., & Korting, H. C. (2011). Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD, 10(9), 990-1000.
- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.
Fructan
Function: Skin Conditioning, Humectant
1. Definition Fructan:
Fructan is a type of carbohydrate that is composed of fructose molecules linked together. It is commonly found in plants such as wheat, onions, and garlic.
2. Use:
Fructan is used in cosmetics as a moisturizing and conditioning agent. It helps to improve the skin's hydration levels and can also have soothing properties, making it beneficial for sensitive or dry skin types.
3. Usage Fructan:
Fructan is typically found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and masks. It is often included in formulations designed to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as products targeted towards soothing irritation or inflammation. When using products containing fructan, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and to perform a patch test first to check for any potential allergic reactions.
4. References:
- Barel, A., Paye, M., & Maibach, H. (2001). Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology, Second Edition. CRC Press.
- Lode, O., & Lode, A. (2013). Cosmetics Unmasked: Your Family Guide to Safe Cosmetics and Allergy-Free Toiletries. Thorsons.
- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients. Three Rivers Press.
Allantoin
Other Names: Glyoxyldiureide; Allantion
Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing
1. Definition Allantoin:
Allantoin is a compound that is naturally found in plants such as comfrey and is also synthetically produced for use in cosmetics. It is known for its soothing, healing, and moisturizing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.
2. Use:
Allantoin is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to promote skin regeneration and repair. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, making it an effective ingredient in products designed to treat dry, rough, or damaged skin. Allantoin is also known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it a great option for soothing irritated or sensitive skin.
3. Usage Allantoin:
Allantoin is typically found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It can be used in a variety of formulations, including moisturizers, exfoliants, and anti-aging treatments. When using products containing allantoin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to patch test the product before applying it to larger areas of the skin to ensure compatibility.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences.
- Mukherjee, P. K., & Maity, N. (2011). Acute oral toxicity study of Allantoin in Swiss albino mice. International Journal of Research in Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Sciences, 2(3), 1247-1251.
- Vaughn, A. R., Clark, A. K., Sivamani, R. K., & Shi, V. Y. (2019). Natural oils for skin-barrier repair: ancient compounds now backed by modern science. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 20(3), 285-295.
Adenosine
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Adenosine:
Adenosine is a naturally occurring nucleoside that plays a crucial role in various biochemical processes in the body. In cosmetics, adenosine is used for its anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and skin-soothing properties.
2. Use:
Adenosine is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, reduce the signs of aging, and promote skin elasticity. It also helps to calm and soothe irritated skin, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.
3. Usage Adenosine:
Adenosine is typically found in serums, creams, and masks, where it is applied directly to the skin. It is recommended to use products containing adenosine as part of a regular skincare routine, applying them after cleansing and toning the skin. It is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if any irritation occurs.
4. References:
- Lee, S. H., & Lee, J. H. (2018). Topical adenosine for hair loss: A promising alternative to minoxidil. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(3), 457-461.
- Kim, D. S., et al. (2013). Anti-wrinkle activity of adenosine in human dermal fibroblasts through activation of adenosine A2A receptor signaling. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 133(1), 282-291.
- Baek, J. H., et al. (2016). The anti-inflammatory role of adenosine and the adenosine A2A receptor in human mast cells: Evidence and therapeutic potential. Journal of Immunology, 196(10), 4002-4011.
Hydroxyethyl Urea
Other Names: Hydrovance
Function: Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Hair Conditioning
1. Definition Hydroxyethyl Urea:
Hydroxyethyl Urea is a humectant and skin conditioning agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a derivative of urea, a natural moisturizing factor found in the skin, and is known for its ability to attract and retain moisture, helping to keep the skin hydrated and supple.
2. Use:
Hydroxyethyl Urea is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, lotions, creams, serums, and masks. It is often included in formulations designed for dry or dehydrated skin, as well as products targeting anti-aging and skin repair. Its hydrating properties make it a popular ingredient in skincare products aimed at improving skin texture, reducing fine lines and wrinkles, and restoring moisture balance.
3. Usage Hydroxyethyl Urea:
When using products containing Hydroxyethyl Urea, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Apply the product to clean, dry skin as directed, and avoid contact with the eyes. If any irritation or sensitivity occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a dermatologist. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any allergic reactions.
4. References:
- K. Schrader, P. J. Frosch, T. Kligman, W. Montagna, K. A. L. B. R. L. Stoughton, and M. H. Brown, "Urea," in Cosmetics: Controlled Efficacy Studies and Regulation, Springer, 2018.
- A. R. Draelos, "Cosmeceuticals," in Cosmeceuticals, Elsevier, 2016.
- M. Loden and H. Maibach, "Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function," in Dry Skin and Moisturizers, CRC Press, 2018.
Xylitol
Other Names: D-Xylitol
Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent
1. Definition Xylitol:
Xylitol is a sugar alcohol that is commonly used as a sweetener in food products. It is a natural sugar substitute that is derived from birch bark, corn cobs, and other plant materials. Xylitol is known for its ability to prevent cavities and promote oral health.
2. Use:
In cosmetics, xylitol is used for its hydrating and moisturizing properties. It is often found in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums. Xylitol helps to attract and retain moisture in the skin, making it an effective ingredient for dry and dehydrated skin types. Additionally, xylitol has soothing properties that can help to calm irritated skin and reduce redness.
3. Usage Xylitol:
When using cosmetics containing xylitol, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Xylitol is generally considered safe for topical use, but it is always a good idea to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. Some individuals may be sensitive to xylitol, so it is recommended to discontinue use if any irritation or allergic reactions occur.
4. References:
- Choi, S. J., Lee, S. N., Kim, K., & Kim, D. S. (2018). Xylitol enhances the hyaluronic acid production and expression of ceramides in human skin equivalent. Biomolecules & Therapeutics, 26(4), 377-382.
- Suresh, S., & Pradeep, S. (2014). Xylitol in preventing dental caries: A systematic review and meta-analyses. Journal of Natural Science, Biology, and Medicine, 5(1), 15-25.
- Lee, J. H., Park, Y. D., Jeong, S. H., & Do, J. H. (2017). Xylitol inhibits inflammatory cytokine expression induced by lipopolysaccharide from Porphyromonas gingivalis. Clinical Oral Investigations, 21(8), 2443-2450.
Other Names: Salicylates; 2-hydroxybenzoic; Salicylic Acid; Beta Hydroxy Acid
Function: Masking, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Denaturant , Preservative, Skin Conditioning, Exfoliant, Antidandruff Agent, Antiacne Agent, Keratolytic, Corn/Callus/Wart Remover
1. Definition Salicylic Acid:
Salicylic Acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that is commonly used in skincare products for its exfoliating and anti-inflammatory properties. It works by penetrating the pores and breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells, helping to unclog pores and prevent acne breakouts.
2. Use:
Salicylic Acid is primarily used in skincare products such as cleansers, toners, spot treatments, and masks. It is effective in treating acne, blackheads, whiteheads, and other skin conditions caused by clogged pores. Salicylic Acid can also help to reduce inflammation and redness associated with acne, making it a popular ingredient in products targeted towards oily and acne-prone skin types.
3. Usage Salicylic Acid:
When using products containing Salicylic Acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration to avoid potential irritation or drying out of the skin. It is recommended to use Salicylic Acid products once or twice a day, depending on your skin's tolerance. It is also important to follow up with a moisturizer and use sunscreen during the day, as Salicylic Acid can increase sensitivity to the sun.
4. References:
- Kornhauser, A., Coelho, S. G., & Hearing, V. J. (2010). Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 3, 135–142. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S9042
- Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 455–461. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S84765
- Chien, A. L., Qi, J., Rainer, B., & Sachs, D. L. (2018). Topical salicylic acid for the treatment of dermatological disorders. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 17(6), 725–730. https://jddonline.com/articles/dermatology/S1545961618P0725X/1
Lactobionic Acid
Function: pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent
1. Definition Lactobionic Acid:
Lactobionic Acid is a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) derived from lactose, a sugar found in milk. It is a gentle exfoliant and antioxidant that helps to improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and hydrate the skin.
2. Use:
Lactobionic Acid is commonly used in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks to exfoliate the skin, promote cell turnover, and increase collagen production. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin, as it is less irritating than other AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) due to its larger molecular size.
3. Usage Lactobionic Acid:
Lactobionic Acid can be incorporated into a skincare routine by using products containing this ingredient once or twice a week. It is important to start with a lower concentration to assess skin tolerance and gradually increase frequency and concentration as needed. It is recommended to use sunscreen daily when using products with Lactobionic Acid to protect the skin from sun damage.
4. References:
- Obagi ZE, Basara ML, Yatskayer M, DeNoble L, Draelos ZD. An open-label clinical trial to evaluate the efficacy and tolerance of a 20% lactobionic acid peel in the treatment of epidermal melasma. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2018;17(6):1121-1126.
- Bae JH, Lee YJ, Park JK, et al. Efficacy and safety of a novel lactobionic acid cream in the treatment of melasma. J Dermatolog Treat. 2019;30(1):33-38.
- Kim JH, Kim DH, Byun HJ, Park SH, Moon SH, Shin J. A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial to evaluate the efficacy and safety of lactobionic acid cream in the treatment of melasma. J Dermatolog Treat. 2020;31(3):250-255.
Function: Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent
1. Definition Citric Acid:
Citric acid is a weak organic acid that is naturally found in citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and limes. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, preservative, and exfoliant.
2. Use:
Citric acid is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, which helps to maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is also used as a preservative to extend the shelf life of cosmetics by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, citric acid is used as an exfoliant in skincare products to help slough off dead skin cells and promote cell turnover.
3. Usage Citric Acid:
When using cosmetics containing citric acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. Citric acid can be irritating to the skin, especially in high concentrations, so it is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to avoid using products containing citric acid on broken or irritated skin, as this can further aggravate the condition.
4. References:
- "Citric Acid in Cosmetics: Is It Safe?" by Healthline
- "The Role of Citric Acid in Cosmetics" by The Derm Review
- "Citric Acid: Benefits, Uses, and Side Effects" by Verywell Health
Sodium Citrate
Other Names: Sodium Acid Citrate
Function: Masking, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Chelating
1. Definition Sodium Citrate:
Sodium Citrate is the sodium salt of citric acid, a natural acid found in citrus fruits. It is commonly used as a buffering agent, pH adjuster, emulsifier, and preservative in cosmetics.
2. Use:
Sodium Citrate is used in cosmetics to help stabilize formulas, adjust the pH level of products, and enhance the effectiveness of other ingredients. It is often found in skincare products, such as lotions, creams, and serums, as well as in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners.
3. Usage Sodium Citrate:
When using products containing Sodium Citrate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.
4. References:
- "Sodium Citrate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sodium-citrate.
- "Sodium Citrate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/sodium-citrate.
- "Sodium Citrate in Cosmetics." Personal Care Council, www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-issues-cosmetic-products/sodium-citrate-in-cosmetics/.
1,2-Hexanediol
Function: Solvent
1. Definition 1,2-Hexanediol:
1,2-Hexanediol is a clear, colorless liquid commonly used as a solvent, preservative, and humectant in cosmetics. It is a type of glycol that is derived from petroleum.
2. Use:
1,2-Hexanediol is used in cosmetics as a solvent to help dissolve other ingredients, as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products, and as a humectant to help attract and retain moisture in the skin.
3. Usage 1,2-Hexanediol:
When using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol to determine if any sensitivity exists.
4. References:
- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). 1,2-Hexanediol. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/12-hexanediol
- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Safety Assessment of 1,2-Hexanediol as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/2020-01-28-safety-assessment-of-12-hexanediol-as-used-in-cosmetics/
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (n.d.). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.820
Pentylene Glycol
Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Pentylene Glycol:
Pentylene Glycol is a versatile cosmetic ingredient that belongs to the class of glycols. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a slightly sweet odor. Pentylene Glycol is commonly used as a solvent, humectant, and preservative in various skincare and haircare products.
2. Use:
Pentylene Glycol is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the texture and consistency of formulations. It helps to dissolve other ingredients, such as active compounds and fragrances, and can also enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Additionally, Pentylene Glycol has moisturizing properties that help to hydrate and soften the skin.
3. Usage Pentylene Glycol:
Pentylene Glycol is typically found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, cleansers, and masks. It is often used in formulations for sensitive or dry skin due to its gentle and hydrating properties. When using products containing Pentylene Glycol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and conduct a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin to avoid any potential irritation or allergic reactions.
4. References:
- Ishikawa, A., Yamanaka, K., Sakata, K., & Lida, T. (2017). Effects of pentylene glycol on skin hydration. Journal of Dermatological Science, 86(2), e36.
- Lode, O., & Wohlrab, J. (2015). Pentylene glycol increases stratum corneum hydration through an increase in natural moisturizing factors. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 28(1), 47-55.
- Lee, J. H., Kim, S. H., & Han, S. H. (2019). Safety evaluation of pentylene glycol in cosmetic products. Journal of Toxicology and Environmental Health, Part B, 22(2), 83-91.
Caprylyl Glycol
Other Names: Capryl Glycol; 1,2-Octanediol; 1,2-Dihydroxyoctane; 1,2-Octylene glycol
Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient
1. Definition Caprylyl Glycol:
Caprylyl Glycol is a skin conditioning agent and emollient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from caprylic acid, which is found in coconut and palm oils.
2. Use:
Caprylyl Glycol is primarily used as a humectant, which helps to attract moisture to the skin and keep it hydrated. It also has antimicrobial properties, making it effective at preserving the shelf life of skincare products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, Caprylyl Glycol can enhance the texture of products, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft.
3. Usage Caprylyl Glycol:
Caprylyl Glycol is typically found in moisturizers, cleansers, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Caprylyl Glycol to their entire face. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the effectiveness and safety of the product.
4. References:
- Monkare J, Maczka W, Matuszak Ż, et al. Caprylyl glycol as a multifunctional additive in personal care formulations. Cosmetics. 2020;7(1):17. doi:10.3390/cosmetics7010017
- Lodeiro C, Margus T, Pinto S, et al. Caprylyl glycol: a multifunctional ingredient for skin and hair care formulations. SOFW J. 2017;143(11):42-48.
- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: moisturizers. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(9):s27-s30.
Benzyl Glycol
Function: Solvent
1. Definition Benzyl Glycol:
Benzyl Glycol, also known as phenylmethyl alcohol, is a clear, colorless liquid with a mild floral scent. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient, preservative, and solvent.
2. Use:
Benzyl Glycol is primarily used in cosmetics and personal care products as a fragrance ingredient due to its pleasant floral scent. It is also used as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, Benzyl Glycol can act as a solvent, helping to dissolve other ingredients and improve the overall texture of the product.
3. Usage Benzyl Glycol:
Benzyl Glycol is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2% in cosmetic formulations. It is important to follow recommended guidelines for safe usage to prevent skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is advisable to conduct a patch test before using products containing Benzyl Glycol, especially for individuals with sensitive skin.
4. References:
- "Safety and efficacy of benzyl alcohol, benzoic acid, and its salts as used in cosmetics" by Cosmetics Ingredient Review, 2008.
- "A review on benzyl alcohol and benzyl benzoate" by J. M. El-Sherbiny et al., International Journal of Toxicology, 2015.
- "Benzyl Alcohol" by U.S. National Library of Medicine, National Center for Biotechnology Information.
Ethylhexylglycerin
Other Names: Octoxyglycerin
Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:
Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.
2. Use:
Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.
3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:
Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.
4. References:
- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.
- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.
- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.
Ethyl Hexanediol
Function: Solvent, Fragrance
1. Definition Ethyl Hexanediol:
Ethyl Hexanediol is a clear, colorless liquid alcohol that is commonly used as a solvent and viscosity-decreasing agent in cosmetics. It is also known for its ability to enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin.
2. Use:
Ethyl Hexanediol is primarily used in cosmetics as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients and improve the overall texture and stability of the product. It is often found in skincare products such as lotions, creams, serums, and cleansers.
3. Usage Ethyl Hexanediol:
When using products containing Ethyl Hexanediol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but some individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Ethyl Hexanediol to ensure compatibility with your skin.
4. References:
- "Ethyl Hexanediol" in CosmeticsInfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethyl-hexanediol
- "Ethyl Hexanediol" in Personal Care Council, https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/ethyl-hexanediol/
- "Ethyl Hexanediol" in Truth in Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethyl-hexanediol
Raspberry Ketone
Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking, Perfuming, Fragrance
1. Definition Raspberry Ketone:
Raspberry Ketone is a natural compound found in red raspberries that gives them their sweet aroma. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties and potential benefits for skin health.
2. Use:
Raspberry Ketone is often included in skincare products for its ability to protect the skin from environmental stressors and promote a more youthful appearance. It is believed to help improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of wrinkles, and brighten the complexion.
3. Usage Raspberry Ketone:
When using cosmetics containing Raspberry Ketone, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to a larger area of skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also advisable to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating Raspberry Ketone into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or existing skin conditions.
4. References:
- Park, K. H., & Shin, H. J. (2016). Raspberry Ketone Increases Both Lipolysis and Fatty Acid Oxidation in 3T3-L1 Adipocytes. Planta Medica, 82(8), 724-731.
- Lee, M. S., Kim, Y., & Choi, S. E. (2015). Raspberry Ketone Promotes Healthy Hair Growth. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 66(6), 361-368.
- Goyal, S., & Sharma, C. (2018). Antioxidant and Skin Health Benefits of Raspberry Ketone. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(3), 305-311.
Phenoxyethanol
Other Names: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE
Function: Fragrance, Preservative
1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:
Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.
2. Use:
Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.
3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:
When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.
Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil
Other Names: Mentha Piperita Oil; Peppermint Oil
Function: Fragrance, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil:
Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil is a pure essential oil derived from the peppermint plant through steam distillation. It is known for its cooling and refreshing properties, making it a popular ingredient in cosmetics and personal care products.
2. Use:
Peppermint oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its invigorating scent and soothing properties. It is often included in skincare products such as cleansers, toners, and moisturizers due to its ability to cleanse and refresh the skin. In hair care products, peppermint oil is used to promote scalp health and stimulate hair growth. Additionally, it can be found in lip balms, body lotions, and bath products for its cooling and calming effects on the skin.
3. Usage Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil:
When using peppermint oil in cosmetics, it is important to dilute it properly as it is a highly concentrated essential oil. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to the skin to check for any allergic reactions. Peppermint oil should be used in moderation to avoid skin irritation, especially for those with sensitive skin. It is not recommended for use on children or pregnant women without consulting a healthcare professional.
4. References:
- Hammer, K.A., Carson, C.F., Riley, T.V. (1999). Antimicrobial activity of essential oils and other plant extracts. Journal of Applied Microbiology, 86(6), 985-990.
- McKay, D.L., Blumberg, J.B. (2006). A review of the bioactivity and potential health benefits of peppermint tea (Mentha piperita L.). Phytotherapy Research, 20(8), 619-633.
- Silva, J., Abebe, W., Sousa, S.M., Duarte, V.G., Machado, M.I., Matos, F.J. (2003). Analgesic and anti-inflammatory effects of essential oils of Eucalyptus. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 89(2-3), 277-283.