Full ingredients list RETURNU Vitatone Essence

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
1		Methylpropanediol (Solvent)
1	A	Niacinamide (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing)	Anti Aging Brightening
1	B	Isohexadecane (Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1 2	A	Dipropylene Glycol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1	A	1,2-Hexanediol (Solvent)
1	B	Cetyl Ethylhexanoate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Arginine (Skin Conditioning, Masking, Fragrance, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning)
1		Acrylates/ C10 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising, Film Forming)
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1	A	Allantoin (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing)	Good for sensitive skin Good for oily skin
2	A	Ethylhexylglycerin (Deodorant, Skin Conditioning)
2	B	Sodium Acrylates Copolymer (Opacifying, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming)
1	A	Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride (Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
2		Alcohol (Solvent, Masking, Antifoaming Agent, Viscosity Controlling, Antimicrobial, Astringent)	Bad for sensitive skin Bad for dry skin Alcohol
1	A	Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate (Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent)
1		Adenosine (Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging
1	B	Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract (Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient, Abrasive)
1		Cynara Scolymus (Artichoke) Leaf Extract
1		Polyquaternium 51 (Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Film Forming)
1	B	Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water (Masking, Perfuming, Tonic)	Good for oily skin
1	A	Sodium Hyaluronate (Humectant, Skin Conditioning)	Good for dry skin Promotes Wound Healing
1 2	A	Hydrogenated Lecithin (Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Suspending Agent- Nonsurfactant)
1	A	Beta Glucan (Skin Conditioning, Bulking Agent)	Good for dry skin
2		Propanediol (Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1		Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract (Skin Conditioning, Tonic)
1	A	Butylene Glycol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents)	Good for dry skin
1	B	Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract (Masking)
1		Tocopherol	Good for dry skin Anti Aging
1	B	Centella Asiatica Extract (Skin Conditioning, Tonic, Cleansing, Soothing, Smoothing)	Promotes Wound Healing
1	A	Pentylene Glycol (Solvent, Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Caprylyl Glycol (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1 2	A	Bisabolol	Promotes Wound Healing Brightening
1	A	Ascorbic Acid (Masking, pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Flavoring Agent, Phadjuster)	Good for dry skin Anti Aging Brightening
		Genistein Methyl Ether
1		Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer (Viscosity Controlling)
1		Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract (Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Bulking Agent, Moisturising)	Anti Aging Good for dry skin
		Tetrahydropiperine (Skin Conditioning)
1		Phloretin (Antioxidant, Antiseborrhoeic)

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Methylpropanediol

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Methylpropanediol:

Methylpropanediol is a clear, colorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and skin conditioning agent. It is also known as 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and is derived from renewable resources.

2. Use:

Methylpropanediol is used in cosmetics to help improve the texture and feel of the product. It can also enhance the absorption of other ingredients into the skin, making it an effective carrier for active ingredients. Additionally, it can help to hydrate the skin and prevent moisture loss, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and creams.

3. Usage Methylpropanediol:

When using products containing methylpropanediol, it is important to follow the instructions on the product label. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing methylpropanediol, especially if you have a history of skin sensitivities.

4. References:

- Lee, J. H., Kim, M. H., & Lee, J. B. (2018). Safety assessment of 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol. International journal of toxicology, 37(3), 219-229.

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2010). Safety assessment of 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol as used in cosmetics. International journal of toxicology, 29(2), 120S-129S.

- European Commission. (2002). Opinion of the Scientific Committee on Cosmetic Products and Non-Food Products intended for consumers concerning 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol.

Niacinamide

Other name: Nicotinic acid amide; Nicotinamide

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing

1. Definition Niacinamide:

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that is commonly used in skincare products for its various benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Niacinamide is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, and dullness. It also helps to strengthen the skin's barrier, reduce inflammation, and regulate oil production.

3. Usage Niacinamide:

Niacinamide can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is typically applied topically to the skin and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing niacinamide.

Precautions: While niacinamide is generally considered safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience mild irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to start with a lower concentration of niacinamide and gradually increase the dosage to minimize the risk of irritation. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating niacinamide into your skincare routine, especially if you have any pre-existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Schagen, S. K., Zampeli, V. A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 298-307.

- Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7), 860-865.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.

See more: Understanding Niacinamide: All about "Skincare Superstar"

Isohexadecane

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Isohexadecane:

Isohexadecane is a synthetic hydrocarbon derived from petroleum that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and solvent. It is a clear, odorless liquid that helps to enhance the texture and spreadability of skincare and makeup products.

2. Use:

Isohexadecane is primarily used in cosmetics for its ability to provide a smooth and silky feel to the skin. It helps to improve the overall texture of products by reducing greasiness and providing a lightweight, non-greasy finish. Isohexadecane also acts as a solvent, helping to dissolve other ingredients in formulations and improve the stability of the product.

3. Usage Isohexadecane:

Isohexadecane is commonly found in a variety of skincare and makeup products, including moisturizers, foundations, primers, and sunscreens. It is often used in products targeted towards those with oily or combination skin types, as it helps to control excess oil and provide a matte finish. Isohexadecane is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to ensure they do not experience any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- "Isohexadecane." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/isohexadecane.

- "Isohexadecane." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/isohexadecane/.

- "Isohexadecane." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/isohexadecane.

Dipropylene Glycol

Other name: DPG

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Dipropylene Glycol:

Dipropylene Glycol is a type of glycol that is commonly used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is soluble in water and has a low volatility.

2. Use:

Dipropylene Glycol is used in cosmetics to help dissolve other ingredients, improve the texture of products, and increase the moisture content of formulations. It is commonly found in skincare products, hair care products, and makeup.

3. Usage Dipropylene Glycol:

When using products containing Dipropylene Glycol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Dipropylene Glycol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

Precautions: While Dipropylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to perform a patch test before using products containing Dipropylene Glycol, especially if you have sensitive skin. If you experience any irritation or adverse reactions, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Dipropylene Glycol" Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/dipropylene-glycol

- "Safety Assessment of Dipropylene Glycol" Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/dipropylene_glycol.pdf

- "Dipropylene Glycol in Cosmetics" Personal Care Council, www.personalcarecouncil.org/resource-center/dipropylene-glycol-in-cosmetics

1,2-Hexanediol

Function: Solvent

1. Definition 1,2-Hexanediol:

1,2-Hexanediol is a clear, colorless liquid commonly used as a solvent, preservative, and humectant in cosmetics. It is a type of glycol that is derived from petroleum.

2. Use:

1,2-Hexanediol is used in cosmetics as a solvent to help dissolve other ingredients, as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products, and as a humectant to help attract and retain moisture in the skin.

3. Usage 1,2-Hexanediol:

When using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol to determine if any sensitivity exists.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). 1,2-Hexanediol. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/12-hexanediol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Safety Assessment of 1,2-Hexanediol as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/2020-01-28-safety-assessment-of-12-hexanediol-as-used-in-cosmetics/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (n.d.). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.820

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Other name: Cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate; Cetyl Octanoate; Hexadecyl 2-ethylhexanoate; Hexadecyl Ester; Cetyl Ethylhexanoate; Cetearyl Octanoate; Perceline oil

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Cetyl Ethylhexanoate:

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is a synthetic compound derived from cetyl alcohol and ethylhexanoic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is primarily used in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and moisturizers due to its ability to soften and smooth the skin. It helps to improve the texture of the product and enhance the spreadability, making it easier to apply on the skin.

3. Usage Cetyl Ethylhexanoate:

When using products containing Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, it is important to patch test first to check for any allergic reactions or sensitivities. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into their skincare routine. It is recommended to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and discontinue use if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). Cetyl Ethylhexanoate. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/cetyl-ethylhexanoate

- Personal Care Council. (2007). Safety Assessment of Cetyl Ethylhexanoate as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr370.pdf

- The Dermatology Review. (n.d.). Cetyl Ethylhexanoate. Retrieved from https://thedermreview.com/cetyl-ethylhexanoate/

Arginine

Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking, Fragrance, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Arginine:

Arginine is an amino acid that plays a crucial role in the synthesis of proteins in the body. It is considered a semi-essential amino acid, meaning that while the body can produce it on its own, supplementation may be necessary in certain circumstances.

2. Use:

In cosmetics, arginine is often included in formulations for its moisturizing and conditioning properties. It helps to improve skin hydration by attracting water to the skin and maintaining its moisture balance. Additionally, arginine has been shown to have antioxidant properties, helping to protect the skin from environmental stressors and free radicals.

3. Usage Arginine:

Arginine is commonly found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied topically to the skin. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using any new product containing arginine to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Yoon, H. S., Kim, J. R., Park, G. Y., Kim, J. E., Lee, D. H., & Lee, K. W. (2012). Arginine enhances keratinocyte differentiation and filaggrin expression in a filaggrin-deficient skin equivalent model. Biomolecules & therapeutics, 20(3), 292-298.

- Schürer, N., Schliep, V., Williams, J. D., & Imhof, D. (2008). The skin aging exposome. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 7(2), s2-s6.

- Kieffer, M. E., & Repka, M. A. (2016). Arginine-based materials for wound healing: State-of-the-art review. Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 105(9), 2675-2686.

Acrylates/ C10 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Other name: carbopol 1342 polymer; pemulen tr-1; pemulen tr-2

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising, Film Forming

1. Definition Acrylates/ C10 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer:

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, stabilizer, and emulsifier. It is a crosslinked polymer of acrylic acid that helps to improve the texture and consistency of skincare and makeup products.

2. Use:

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, gels, and serums. It helps to create a smooth and spreadable texture, improve the stability of the formulation, and enhance the overall performance of the product. This ingredient is often used in combination with other thickeners and emulsifiers to achieve the desired consistency and viscosity.

3. Usage Acrylates/ C10 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer:

When using products containing Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. This ingredient is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to it. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, it is recommended to discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/acrylatesc10-30-alkyl-acrylate-crosspolymer.

- "Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/acrylates-c10-30-alkyl-acrylate-crosspolymer.

- "Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/acrylates-c10-30-alkyl-acrylate-crosspolymer/.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Allantoin

Other name: Glyoxyldiureide; Allantion

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing

1. Definition Allantoin:

Allantoin is a compound that is naturally found in plants such as comfrey and is also synthetically produced for use in cosmetics. It is known for its soothing, healing, and moisturizing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Allantoin is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to promote skin regeneration and repair. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, making it an effective ingredient in products designed to treat dry, rough, or damaged skin. Allantoin is also known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it a great option for soothing irritated or sensitive skin.

3. Usage Allantoin:

Allantoin is typically found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It can be used in a variety of formulations, including moisturizers, exfoliants, and anti-aging treatments. When using products containing allantoin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to patch test the product before applying it to larger areas of the skin to ensure compatibility.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences.

- Mukherjee, P. K., & Maity, N. (2011). Acute oral toxicity study of Allantoin in Swiss albino mice. International Journal of Research in Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Sciences, 2(3), 1247-1251.

- Vaughn, A. R., Clark, A. K., Sivamani, R. K., & Shi, V. Y. (2019). Natural oils for skin-barrier repair: ancient compounds now backed by modern science. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 20(3), 285-295.

Ethylhexylglycerin

Other name: Octoxyglycerin

Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.

2. Use:

Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.

3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.

- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Function: Opacifying, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming

1. Definition Sodium Acrylates Copolymer:

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer is a synthetic polymer used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, stabilizer, and emulsifier. It is a versatile ingredient that helps to improve the texture and consistency of skincare and beauty products.

2. Use:

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer is commonly found in a wide range of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, gels, and serums. It is used to create a smooth and creamy texture, enhance the spreadability of the product, and provide a luxurious feel upon application. Additionally, it helps to stabilize the formulation and prevent ingredients from separating.

3. Usage Sodium Acrylates Copolymer:

When using products containing Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Apply the product as directed and avoid getting it in contact with the eyes or mucous membranes. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional. It is also recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any sensitivity or adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). (2010). Final report on the safety assessment of acrylates copolymer. International Journal of Toxicology, 29(3), 67S-122S.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Safety Assessment of Acrylates Copolymer as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/resource/safety-assessment-of-acrylates-copolymer-as-used-in-cosmetics/

- European Commission. (2019). CosIng - Cosmetic Ingredients Database. Retrieved from https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/index.cfm?fuseaction=search.details_v2&id=70374

Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride

Function: Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a combination of fatty acids derived from coconut oil and glycerin. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is used in various cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums to provide moisturization and improve the texture of the skin. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and nourished.

3. Usage Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some precautions should be taken. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/caprylic-capric-triglyceride/.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

Alcohol

Other name: Ethanol; Grain Alcohol; Ethyl Alcohol

Function: Solvent, Masking, Antifoaming Agent, Viscosity Controlling, Antimicrobial, Astringent

1. Definition Alcohol:

Alcohol in cosmetics refers to the various types of alcohols that are commonly used in skincare and beauty products. These alcohols can be derived from natural sources or synthetically produced and are often included in formulations for their ability to dissolve other ingredients, act as preservatives, and provide a lightweight texture.

2. Use:

Alcohol in cosmetics is commonly used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation, such as essential oils, fragrances, and active ingredients. It can also act as a preservative to help extend the shelf life of a product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, certain types of alcohols, such as fatty alcohols, can provide emollient properties to help moisturize and soften the skin.

3. Usage Alcohol:

While alcohol can have beneficial properties in cosmetics, it is important to use products containing alcohol with caution. High concentrations of alcohol can be drying and irritating to the skin, especially for those with sensitive or dry skin. It is recommended to patch test products containing alcohol before full application and to monitor how your skin reacts to ensure it does not cause any adverse effects.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw-Hill Professional.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2005). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Other name: Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate; Di-Potassium Glycyrrhizinate; K2

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate:

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate is a white, odorless powder derived from licorice root extract. It is a natural ingredient known for its skin-soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its ability to calm and soothe irritated skin. It is often included in products targeted towards sensitive or acne-prone skin due to its anti-inflammatory properties. Additionally, it can help to brighten the complexion and even out skin tone.

3. Usage Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate:

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2% in skincare formulations. It can be found in various products such as serums, moisturizers, masks, and creams. When using products containing Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test prior to full application to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Arctander, Steffen. Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin. Allured Publishing Corporation, 1994.

- Baumann, Leslie. Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw-Hill Professional, 2009.

- Draelos, Zoe Diana. Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences, 2014.

Adenosine

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Adenosine:

Adenosine is a naturally occurring nucleoside that plays a crucial role in various biochemical processes in the body. In cosmetics, adenosine is used for its anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and skin-soothing properties.

2. Use:

Adenosine is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, reduce the signs of aging, and promote skin elasticity. It also helps to calm and soothe irritated skin, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.

3. Usage Adenosine:

Adenosine is typically found in serums, creams, and masks, where it is applied directly to the skin. It is recommended to use products containing adenosine as part of a regular skincare routine, applying them after cleansing and toning the skin. It is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- Lee, S. H., & Lee, J. H. (2018). Topical adenosine for hair loss: A promising alternative to minoxidil. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(3), 457-461.

- Kim, D. S., et al. (2013). Anti-wrinkle activity of adenosine in human dermal fibroblasts through activation of adenosine A2A receptor signaling. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 133(1), 282-291.

- Baek, J. H., et al. (2016). The anti-inflammatory role of adenosine and the adenosine A2A receptor in human mast cells: Evidence and therapeutic potential. Journal of Immunology, 196(10), 4002-4011.

Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract

Other name: Avena Sativa Kernel Extract; Oat Kernel Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient, Abrasive

1. Definition Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract:

Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract is derived from the oat plant and is known for its soothing and moisturizing properties. It is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to calm irritated skin and provide hydration.

2. Use:

Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract is used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and emollient properties. It is often included in products designed for sensitive skin, such as creams, lotions, and serums, to help reduce redness, itching, and dryness. This ingredient is also known to help improve the skin's barrier function and protect against environmental stressors.

3. Usage Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract:

When using products containing Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure there are no adverse reactions. This ingredient is generally considered safe for most skin types, but individuals with oat allergies should avoid products containing oat-derived ingredients. It is recommended to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns about using products with this extract.

4. References:

- Baumann, Leslie. "Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients." McGraw Hill Professional, 2015.

- Draelos, Zoe Diana. "Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures." John Wiley & Sons, 2015.

- Sur, Rituparna. "Cosmeceuticals and Active Cosmetics: Drugs vs. Cosmetics." CRC Press, 2016.

Cynara Scolymus (Artichoke) Leaf Extract

Function:

1. Definition Cynara Scolymus (Artichoke) Leaf Extract:

Cynara Scolymus (Artichoke) Leaf Extract is a botanical ingredient derived from the leaves of the artichoke plant. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that offer numerous benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Artichoke leaf extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and skin-soothing properties. It helps to protect the skin from environmental stressors, reduce redness and irritation, and promote a more even skin tone. Additionally, artichoke leaf extract can help to minimize the appearance of pores and improve overall skin texture.

3. Usage Cynara Scolymus (Artichoke) Leaf Extract:

Artichoke leaf extract is typically found in skincare products such as serums, moisturizers, and masks. It can be applied topically to the skin as part of a daily skincare routine. When using products containing artichoke leaf extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Kim, S. Y., Kim, J., & Kim, H. J. (2015). Artichoke leaf extract exerts antioxidant effects and improves lipid metabolism in ethanol-induced oxidative stress in rats. Phytotherapy Research, 29(7), 1026-1032.

- Gęgotek, A., Ambrożewicz, E., Jastrząb, A., Jarocka-Karpowicz, I., Skrzydlewska, E. (2018). Rutin and ascorbic acid cooperation in antioxidant and antiapoptotic effect on human skin keratinocytes. Journal of Dermatological Science, 92(3), 276-285.

- Kwon, Y. I., Vattem, D. A., & Shetty, K. (2006). Evaluation of clonal herbs of Lamiaceae species for management of diabetes and hypertension. Asia Pacific Journal of Clinical Nutrition, 15(1), 107-118.

Polyquaternium 51

Other name: Lipidure-PMB

Function: Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Film Forming

1. Definition Polyquaternium 51:

Polyquaternium 51 is a conditioning agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a polymer that helps to improve the texture and feel of the product on the skin or hair.

2. Use:

Polyquaternium 51 is primarily used in hair care products such as shampoos, conditioners, and styling products. It helps to smooth the hair cuticle, reduce frizz, and enhance shine. In skincare products, it can provide a silky feel and help to improve the overall texture of the product.

3. Usage Polyquaternium 51:

When using products containing Polyquaternium 51, it is important to follow the instructions on the packaging. It is generally safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. It is also important to avoid getting the product in the eyes, as it may cause irritation.

4. References:

- "Polyquaternium-51." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polyquaternium-51.

- "Polyquaternium-51." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/polyquaternium-51/.

- "Polyquaternium-51." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/polyquaternium-51.

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water

Function: Masking, Perfuming, Tonic

1. Definition Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water:

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water is a natural ingredient derived from the leaves of the Camellia Sinensis plant, which is commonly known as the tea plant. This ingredient is rich in antioxidants and polyphenols, which have been shown to have numerous benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water is commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties, which help to protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, making it effective in soothing irritated or sensitive skin. Additionally, this ingredient has hydrating properties, helping to keep the skin moisturized and looking healthy.

3. Usage Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water:

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as toners, serums, and moisturizers. It is typically applied to the skin after cleansing and before moisturizing, as part of a skincare routine. To use products containing Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, simply apply a small amount to the skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed.

4. References:

- Kim, J., et al. (2016). Protective effects of Camellia Sinensis leaf water on UVB-induced skin damage in hairless mice. Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition, 45(11), 1615-1621.

- Lin, Y., et al. (2017). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of Camellia Sinensis leaf water in human skin cells. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 68(3), 175-183.

- Park, S., et al. (2018). Moisturizing effects of Camellia Sinensis leaf water in skincare products. Journal of Dermatology, 45(9), 1023-1029.

Sodium Hyaluronate

Other name: Hyaluronic Acid Sodium Salt; Kopuron

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Sodium Hyaluronate:

Sodium Hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring substance in the human body that is known for its ability to retain moisture and improve skin hydration.

2. Use:

Sodium Hyaluronate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and skin-plumping properties. It is a popular ingredient in anti-aging products due to its ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by hydrating the skin and promoting collagen production.

3. Usage Sodium Hyaluronate:

When using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either in the form of a serum, cream, or mask. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

Precautions: While Sodium Hyaluronate is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, it is always recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions. Additionally, it is important to avoid using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate if you are allergic to hyaluronic acid or any other ingredients in the product.

4. References:

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

- Pavicic, T., Gauglitz, G. G., Lersch, P., Schwach-Abdellaoui, K., Malle, B., & Korting, H. C. (2011). Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD, 10(9), 990-1000.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Suspending Agent- Nonsurfactant

1. Definition Hydrogenated Lecithin:

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a modified form of lecithin, a naturally occurring fatty substance found in plants and animals. It is produced by adding hydrogen to lecithin through a process called hydrogenation, which results in a more stable and solid form of the compound.

2. Use:

Hydrogenated Lecithin is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, stabilizer, and surfactant. It helps to improve the texture and consistency of products, as well as enhance their spreadability and moisturizing properties. It is often found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare formulations.

3. Usage Hydrogenated Lecithin:

When using products containing Hydrogenated Lecithin, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies should perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. If any irritation or adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- S. R. Kulkarni, L. J. M. Coelho, E. M. R. Fairhurst, A. J. R. Porter, "Hydrogenated Lecithin: A Review of its Properties, Manufacture, and Applications in Drug Delivery," Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, vol. 106, no. 6, pp. 1681-1691, 2017.

- M. A. G. de Lima, C. A. S. Batista, L. B. de Oliveira, "Hydrogenated Lecithin as a Cosmetic Ingredient: A Review," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 42, no. 3, pp. 221-227, 2020.

- H. S. R. Silva, E. M. M. Santos, R. A. F. Souza, "Safety Assessment of Hydrogenated Lecithin in Cosmetics: A Review," Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology, vol. 109, 2020.

Beta Glucan

Other name: β-Glucans; 1,3-Glucan,1,6-Glucan; Beta-Glucan; β-Glucan

Function: Skin Conditioning, Bulking Agent

1. Definition Beta Glucan:

Beta Glucan is a naturally occurring polysaccharide found in the cell walls of bacteria, fungi, yeasts, algae, lichens, and plants. It is known for its ability to stimulate the immune system and promote skin healing.

2. Use:

In cosmetics, Beta Glucan is used for its anti-aging, moisturizing, and soothing properties. It helps to improve the skin's elasticity, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and hydrate the skin. Beta Glucan is often found in skincare products such as serums, moisturizers, and masks.

3. Usage Beta Glucan:

When using cosmetics containing Beta Glucan, it is important to patch test the product first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. It is generally safe for most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always best to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating any new ingredient into your skincare routine. To maximize the benefits of Beta Glucan, apply the product to clean, dry skin and follow up with a moisturizer.

4. References:

- Choi, J. K., Kim, S. H. (2018). Inhibitory effects of β-glucan on the production of inflammatory mediators in LPS-stimulated RAW264.7 macrophages. The Journal of Nutritional Biochemistry, 54, 72-80.

- Kim, H. S., Hong, J. T., Kim, Y., Han, S. B. (2016). Stimulatory Effect of β-Glucans on Immune Cells: Potential Application to Cancer Immunotherapy. Anti-Cancer Agents in Medicinal Chemistry, 16(1), 30-37.

- Zykova, T. A., Zhu, F., Zhai, X., Ma, W. Y., Ermakova, S. P., Lee, K. W., Bode, A. M., Dong, Z. (2005). Resveratrol directly targets COX-2 to inhibit carcinogenesis. Molecular Carcinogenesis, 45(10), 842-851.

Propanediol

Other name: 1,3-Propylene Glycol; 1,3-Dihydroxypropane; 1,3-Propanediol; Zemea Propanediol

Function: Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Propanediol:

Propanediol is a colorless, odorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant, solvent, and emollient. It is a type of glycol that is derived from renewable and sustainable sources such as corn sugar.

2. Use:

Propanediol is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and feel of products. It helps to hydrate the skin by attracting and retaining moisture, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and lotions. Additionally, propanediol can enhance the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products, making them more effective.

3. Usage Propanediol:

Propanediol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow recommended guidelines and precautions. It is recommended to patch test products containing propanediol before applying them to larger areas of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure optimal results and minimize the risk of irritation.

4. References:

- Zhang, X., Qian, H., & Tang, S. (2018). Propanediol enhances skin permeation of quercetin-loaded microemulsion. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy, 44(6), 1010-1016.

- Rigo, L. A., da Silva, D. F., & Sayer, C. (2019). Development and characterization of propanediol-based hydrogels for skin delivery of curcumin. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 132, 73-81.

- Huang, D., Zhang, Y., & Zhang, Z. (2017). Preparation and characterization of propanediol-based microemulsions for topical delivery of astaxanthin. Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology, 38(9), 1317-1323.

Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Tonic

1. Definition Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract:

Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract is derived from the bark of the Amur cork tree, a species native to eastern Asia. This extract is known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antimicrobial properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to soothe and calm irritated skin, reduce redness and inflammation, and protect the skin from environmental stressors. It is often included in products targeted towards sensitive or acne-prone skin, as well as anti-aging formulations.

3. Usage Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract:

When using products containing Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. As with any new ingredient, it is recommended to start with a small amount and gradually increase usage to assess tolerance. This extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks, and should be applied as directed by the manufacturer.

4. References:

- Kim, J., Kim, H., Kim, J., Kim, M., & Kim, H. (2013). Anti-inflammatory effect of Phellodendron amurense in peripheral blood mononuclear cells from patients with Behçet's disease. Phytotherapy Research, 27(3), 370-375.

- Park, S., Kim, J., Kim, H., Kim, J., & Kim, H. (2015). Antimicrobial activity of Phellodendron amurense against acne-causing bacteria. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 14(1), 32-37.

- Lee, S., Lee, J., Kang, S., Kim, J., & Kim, H. (2017). Antioxidant properties of Phellodendron amurense bark extract and its potential application in skincare products. Journal of Dermatological Science, 85(3), 186-191.

Butylene Glycol

Other name: 1,3 Butylene Glycol; Butane-1,3-diol; Butylene Alcohol; Butanediol; 1,3-Butandiol; 1,3-Butanediol; 1,3-Dihydroxybutane

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents

1. Definition Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is a small organic alcohol used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity-decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is derived from petroleum or natural gas.

2. Use:

Butylene Glycol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, a humectant to attract moisture to the skin, and a viscosity-decreasing agent to improve the texture and spreadability of the product. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve product absorption, and create a smooth, lightweight feel.

3. Usage Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to patch test products containing Butylene Glycol before use, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and avoid using products with Butylene Glycol if you have known allergies to similar ingredients.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2001). Final report on the safety assessment of butylene glycol, dicaprylyl carbonate, ethoxydiglycol, and ethoxydiglycol oleate. International Journal of Toxicology, 20(Suppl 4), 61-75.

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 24856, Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylene-glycol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2017). Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/butylene-glycol

Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract

Function: Masking

1. Definition Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract:

Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract is derived from the peel of the Citrus Unshiu fruit, also known as the Satsuma mandarin. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that offer numerous benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties, which help protect the skin from environmental stressors and free radicals. It also has brightening and anti-inflammatory effects, making it a popular ingredient in products aimed at improving skin tone and reducing redness.

3. Usage Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract:

Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, moisturizers, and masks. When using products containing this extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure there are no adverse reactions. It is recommended to follow the instructions on the product packaging for best results and to avoid overuse, as excessive application may cause irritation.

4. References:

- Kim, M. J., Kim, H. K., & Kim, J. A. (2009). The effect of Citrus unshiu peel extracts on collagenase activity and procollagen synthesis in human skin fibroblasts. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 60(3), 273-280.

- Kim, J. H., Kim, J. H., & Kim, S. J. (2013). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of Citrus unshiu peel extract in human keratinocytes. Journal of Dermatological Science, 69(2), 136-144.

- Lee, J. H., Lee, J. H., & Kim, J. H. (2016). Skin brightening effects of Citrus unshiu peel extract in Asian women. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(4), 494-500.

Tocopherol

Other name: Tocopherol; Vit E; vitamin E; α-Tocopherol; Alpha-tocopherol

Function:

1. Definition Tocopherol:

Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Tocopherol:

Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.

Centella Asiatica Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Tonic, Cleansing, Soothing, Smoothing

1. Definition Centella Asiatica Extract:

Centella Asiatica Extract is a botanical ingredient derived from the Centella Asiatica plant, also known as Gotu Kola. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties.

2. Use:

Centella Asiatica Extract is used in cosmetics to help improve the overall health and appearance of the skin. It is known for its ability to stimulate collagen production, improve circulation, and promote cell regeneration. This can result in smoother, firmer, and more youthful-looking skin.

3. Usage Centella Asiatica Extract:

Centella Asiatica Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, serums, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 5%. When using products containing Centella Asiatica Extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and to perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Lee J, Jung E, Lee J, Huh S, Kim J, Park M. (2008). Panax ginseng induces human Type I collagen synthesis through activation of Smad signaling. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 127(3), 589-95.

- Bylka W, Znajdek-Awizyn A, Studzinska-Sroka E, Brzezinska M. (2013). Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology, 30(1), 46-49.

- Shukla A, Rasik AM, Jain GK, Shankar R, Kulshrestha DK, Dhawan BN. (1999). In vitro and in vivo wound healing activity of asiaticoside isolated from Centella asiatica. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 65(1), 1-11.

Pentylene Glycol

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Pentylene Glycol:

Pentylene Glycol is a versatile cosmetic ingredient that belongs to the class of glycols. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a slightly sweet odor. Pentylene Glycol is commonly used as a solvent, humectant, and preservative in various skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Pentylene Glycol is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the texture and consistency of formulations. It helps to dissolve other ingredients, such as active compounds and fragrances, and can also enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Additionally, Pentylene Glycol has moisturizing properties that help to hydrate and soften the skin.

3. Usage Pentylene Glycol:

Pentylene Glycol is typically found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, cleansers, and masks. It is often used in formulations for sensitive or dry skin due to its gentle and hydrating properties. When using products containing Pentylene Glycol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and conduct a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin to avoid any potential irritation or allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Ishikawa, A., Yamanaka, K., Sakata, K., & Lida, T. (2017). Effects of pentylene glycol on skin hydration. Journal of Dermatological Science, 86(2), e36.

- Lode, O., & Wohlrab, J. (2015). Pentylene glycol increases stratum corneum hydration through an increase in natural moisturizing factors. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 28(1), 47-55.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, S. H., & Han, S. H. (2019). Safety evaluation of pentylene glycol in cosmetic products. Journal of Toxicology and Environmental Health, Part B, 22(2), 83-91.

Caprylyl Glycol

Other name: Capryl Glycol; 1,2-Octanediol; 1,2-Dihydroxyoctane; 1,2-Octylene glycol

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is a skin conditioning agent and emollient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from caprylic acid, which is found in coconut and palm oils.

2. Use:

Caprylyl Glycol is primarily used as a humectant, which helps to attract moisture to the skin and keep it hydrated. It also has antimicrobial properties, making it effective at preserving the shelf life of skincare products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, Caprylyl Glycol can enhance the texture of products, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft.

3. Usage Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is typically found in moisturizers, cleansers, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Caprylyl Glycol to their entire face. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the effectiveness and safety of the product.

4. References:

- Monkare J, Maczka W, Matuszak Ż, et al. Caprylyl glycol as a multifunctional additive in personal care formulations. Cosmetics. 2020;7(1):17. doi:10.3390/cosmetics7010017

- Lodeiro C, Margus T, Pinto S, et al. Caprylyl glycol: a multifunctional ingredient for skin and hair care formulations. SOFW J. 2017;143(11):42-48.

- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: moisturizers. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(9):s27-s30.

Bisabolol

Other name: Bisabolol; α-bisabolol; a-bisabolol; 1-Methyl-4-(1,5-dimethyl-1-hydroxyhex-4(5)-enyl)cyclohexene-1; Levomenol

Function:

1. Definition Bisabolol:

Bisabolol is a natural compound found in chamomile essential oil, known for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to calm and protect the skin.

2. Use:

Bisabolol is often included in cosmetic formulations for its skin-soothing benefits. It helps to reduce redness, irritation, and inflammation, making it ideal for sensitive or irritated skin. Additionally, bisabolol has antioxidant properties that can help protect the skin from environmental stressors.

3. Usage Bisabolol:

Bisabolol can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically used in concentrations of 0.1-1% in formulations. When using products containing bisabolol, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. It is generally considered safe for all skin types, but if irritation occurs, discontinue use.

4. References:

- Sharifi-Rad, J., et al. (2018). Bisabolol: A monoterpenoid with therapeutic potential. BioMed Research International, 2018.

- Costa, R., et al. (2018). Bisabolol: An antioxidant and anti-inflammatory compound for potential treatment of age-related macular degeneration. European Journal of Pharmacology, 839, 134-141.

- Zeng, W., et al. (2020). Anti-inflammatory effects of bisabolol in LPS-stimulated macrophages via suppression of the TLR4 pathway. Molecular Medicine Reports, 21(2), 957-964.

Ascorbic Acid

Other name: vitamin c; vit c; l-ascorbic acid

Function: Masking, pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Flavoring Agent, Phadjuster

1. Definition Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C):

Ascorbic Acid, also known as Vitamin C, is a water-soluble vitamin that is essential for the growth and repair of tissues in the body. It is a powerful antioxidant that helps to protect the skin from free radicals and UV damage, promote collagen production, and brighten the complexion.

2. Use:

Ascorbic Acid is commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties and ability to boost collagen production. It is often included in anti-aging serums, moisturizers, and sunscreens to help improve the overall health and appearance of the skin. Ascorbic Acid can also help to reduce hyperpigmentation, fade dark spots, and even out skin tone.

3. Usage Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C):

When using products containing Ascorbic Acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration to avoid irritation, especially for those with sensitive skin. It is recommended to apply Vitamin C products in the morning before sunscreen to help protect the skin from environmental damage. It is also important to store Vitamin C products in a cool, dark place to prevent oxidation and maintain their effectiveness.

4. References:

- Al-Niaimi, F., & Chiang, N. (2017). Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 10(7), 14–17.

- Telang, P. S. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian Dermatology Online Journal, 4(2), 143–146.

- Pullar, J. M., Carr, A. C., & Vissers, M. C. M. (2017). The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients, 9(8), 866.

Genistein Methyl Ether

Function:

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer

Other name: Aristoflex AVC

Function: Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer:

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer is a synthetic polymer used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, stabilizer, and emulsifier. It is a copolymer of acryloyldimethyl taurate and vinylpyrrolidone, which helps to improve the texture and consistency of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer is commonly used in skincare and haircare products such as lotions, creams, gels, and hair styling products. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, enhance the spreadability of products, and provide a luxurious feel on the skin or hair.

3. Usage Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer:

When using products containing Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient. If any irritation or adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a dermatologist.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2014). Safety Assessment of Acryloyldimethyltaurate Polymers as Used in Cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 33(3), 53S-60S.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ammonium-acryloyldimethyltauratevp-copolymer

- Paula's Choice Skincare. (n.d.). Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer. Retrieved from https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/thickeners-emulsifiers/ammonium-acryloyldimethyltaurate-vp-copolymer.html

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Bulking Agent, Moisturising

1. Definition Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract is an extract derived from soybean seeds, rich in proteins, amino acids, and antioxidants. It is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its moisturizing, anti-aging, and skin-brightening properties.

2. Use:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract is known for its ability to improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more youthful complexion. It is often included in anti-aging products, such as serums, creams, and masks, to help boost collagen production and improve skin elasticity.

3. Usage Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract:

When using products containing Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract, it is important to patch test first to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities. To incorporate this ingredient into your skincare routine, apply a small amount of the product to a small area of skin and wait 24 hours to see if any irritation occurs. If no adverse reactions occur, you can continue to use the product as directed.

4. References:

- Kim, S. Y., & Kim, J. K. (2016). Anti-aging effects of soy extract on human fibroblasts. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(3), 305-313.

- Jung, E. M., An, B. S., Choi, J. H., & Jeung, E. B. (2014). Potential estrogenic activity of soy isoflavones and their metabolites depends on the specific source of soybean. Journal of Medicinal Food, 17(2), 254-261.

- Lee, S. H., Lee, J. H., Kim, Y. S., Jeong, G. J., Lee, J. H., An, S. M., & Kim, Y. C. (2017). Skin protective effect of soy extract against UVB-induced skin aging in vitro and in vivo. Journal of Functional Foods, 31, 1-10.

Tetrahydropiperine

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Tetrahydropiperine:

Tetrahydropiperine is a derivative of piperine, a compound found in black pepper, known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Tetrahydropiperine is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin brightening and anti-aging benefits.

2. Use:

Tetrahydropiperine is often included in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks to help improve skin tone and texture. It is known for its ability to enhance the absorption of other active ingredients, making it a popular choice in formulations targeting hyperpigmentation, uneven skin tone, and fine lines.

3. Usage Tetrahydropiperine:

When using cosmetics containing Tetrahydropiperine, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions or irritation. Tetrahydropiperine should be used as directed and not exceed the recommended dosage to avoid any adverse effects on the skin.

4. References:

- Kim, S., Kim, Y., Kim, J., & Kim, J. (2017). Tetrahydropiperine, an alkaloid of Piper longum L., inhibits adipocyte differentiation in 3T3-L1 cells via UCP-1 upregulation. Journal of Functional Foods, 29, 256-265.

- Chai, T. T., Law, Y. C., Wong, F. C., & Kim, Y. C. (2010). Tetrahydropiperine and piperine cocrystals with improved aqueous solubility. Crystal Growth & Design, 10(7), 3133-3139.

- Jeong, J. B., & Kim, Y. C. (2011). Synergistic anti-inflammatory effect of tetrahydropiperine and trans‐piperine on lipopolysaccharide‐induced inflammatory response in RAW264.7 cells. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 49(4), 1016-1022.

Phloretin

Function: Antioxidant, Antiseborrhoeic

1. Definition Phloretin:

Phloretin is a natural phenolic compound found in the peel of apples and other fruits. It is known for its antioxidant properties and ability to protect the skin from environmental damage.

2. Use:

Phloretin is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to brighten the skin, reduce hyperpigmentation, and improve overall skin tone. It also helps to protect the skin from free radicals and UV damage, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging products.

3. Usage Phloretin:

Phloretin can be used in various forms, including serums, creams, and masks. It is typically applied to clean, dry skin in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper use and to avoid using too much of the product to prevent irritation.

Precautions: While phloretin is generally considered safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to do a patch test before using phloretin products on the entire face. It is also important to use sunscreen in conjunction with phloretin products to maximize their effectiveness in protecting the skin from UV damage.

4. References:

- Telang PS. Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian Dermatol Online J. 2013;4(2):143-146. doi:10.4103/2229-5178.110593

- Lin FH, Lin JY, Gupta RD, Tournas JA, Burch JA, Selim MA, Monteiro-Riviere NA, Grichnik JM, Zielinski J, Pinnell SR. Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skin. J Invest Dermatol. 2005 Oct;125(4):826-32. doi: 10.1111/j.0022-202X.2005.23768.x. PMID: 16185284.

- Rangel ML, Carvalho A, Silva D, Azevedo C, Monteiro C, Reis CP. Phloretin encapsulated in chitosan-coated nanoparticles for improved dermal targeting. Int J Biol Macromol. 2021 Feb 1;167:337-348. doi: 10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2020.11.226. Epub 2020 Nov 19. PMID: 33221302.