Full ingredients list Revive Skincare Rescue Balm Overnight ...

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water/Aqua/Eau (Solvent)
2		Propanediol (Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1	A	Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Octyldodecanol (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Cetearyl Alcohol (Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous)
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1	B	Cetearyl Olivate (Hair Conditioning)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Sorbitan Olivate (Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	B	Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning)
2	A	Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Jojoba Esters (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Soothing, Moisturising)
1	A	Palmitic Acid (Fragrance, Opacifying, Emollient, Sufactant)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1 3	A	Urea (Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Antistatic Agent, pH adjusting agent)
1	B	Isododecane (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Emollient)
1		Hexapeptide 9 (Skin Conditioning)
1		Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Extract
		Ceramide Ns
		Ceramide NG
1		Ceramide Np	Anti Aging
1	A	Squalane (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Refatting)
1		Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract (Skin Conditioning, Humectant)
	B	Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice (Skin Conditioning)	Good for sensitive skin
1		Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Extract (Fragrance)
1		Papaver Rhoeas Flower Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax
		Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax/Candelilla Cera/Cire De Candelilla
		Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba Wax/Cera Carnauba/Cire De Carnauba)
1		Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Skin Protecting)
1		Lentinus Edodes Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Trametes Versicolor Extract (Hair Conditioning)
1		Crithmum Maritimum Extract (Skin Conditioning, Tonic)
1	A	Stearic Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Sufactant, Refatting)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1	B	Isopropyl Myristate (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Binding Agent, Binding)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	1,2-Hexanediol (Solvent)
1	A	Caprylyl Glycol (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
2	B	Cetearyl Glucoside (Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1	A	Maltodextrin (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Absorbent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming, Suspending Agent - Nonsurfactant)
3	B	Peg 10 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
1	A	Butylene Glycol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents)	Good for dry skin
1	A	Disodium Edta (Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1		Gluconolactone (Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant)	Anti Aging
2 3	A	Tocopheryl Acetate (Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)	Anti Aging
1		Polyglycerin 3 (Humectant)
1	A	Xanthan Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming)
1 3	A	Glyceryl Behenate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	B	Polyglyceryl 4 Isostearate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Surfactant, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1 2		Lecithin (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1	A	Myristic Acid (Perfuming, Fragrance, Opacifying, Emulsifying, Sufactant)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
		Amidinobenzyl Benzylsulfonyl D-Seryl Homophenylalaninamide Acetate
1		Tocopherol	Good for dry skin Anti Aging
1		Linoleic Acid (Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Sufactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Oleic Acid (Fragrance, Emollient, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Beta Sitosterol (Masking, Skin Conditioning, Emulsion Stabilising, Stabilising)
1		Linolenic Acid (Perfuming, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Sufactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1 2	A	Citric Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin
1 4	B	Sodium Hydroxide (Denaturant , pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)
2	A	Potassium Sorbate (Fragrance, Preservative)
1 3	A	Sodium Benzoate (Masking, Fragrance, Preservative, Anticorrosive)
2	A	Ethylhexylglycerin (Deodorant, Skin Conditioning)
2 4	A	Phenoxyethanol (Fragrance, Preservative)
8		Fragrance (Parfum) (Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant)	Good for dry skin
		Red 33 (Ci 17200)
		Ext. Violet 2 (Ci 60730)
3 5		Benzyl Salicylate (Masking, Fragrance, Uv Absorber)	Allergen
4 5		Limonene (Solvent, Perfuming, Deodorant)	Allergen

Water/Aqua/Eau

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Propanediol

Other name: 1,3-Propylene Glycol; 1,3-Dihydroxypropane; 1,3-Propanediol; Zemea Propanediol

Function: Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Propanediol:

Propanediol is a colorless, odorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant, solvent, and emollient. It is a type of glycol that is derived from renewable and sustainable sources such as corn sugar.

2. Use:

Propanediol is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and feel of products. It helps to hydrate the skin by attracting and retaining moisture, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and lotions. Additionally, propanediol can enhance the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products, making them more effective.

3. Usage Propanediol:

Propanediol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow recommended guidelines and precautions. It is recommended to patch test products containing propanediol before applying them to larger areas of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure optimal results and minimize the risk of irritation.

4. References:

- Zhang, X., Qian, H., & Tang, S. (2018). Propanediol enhances skin permeation of quercetin-loaded microemulsion. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy, 44(6), 1010-1016.

- Rigo, L. A., da Silva, D. F., & Sayer, C. (2019). Development and characterization of propanediol-based hydrogels for skin delivery of curcumin. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 132, 73-81.

- Huang, D., Zhang, Y., & Zhang, Z. (2017). Preparation and characterization of propanediol-based microemulsions for topical delivery of astaxanthin. Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology, 38(9), 1317-1323.

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter

Function:

1. Definition Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter:

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter is a natural fat extracted from the nuts of the African shea tree. It is rich in vitamins and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Shea butter is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it a popular choice for hydrating dry skin. It is often used in creams, lotions, lip balms, and hair products to help improve skin elasticity and promote a healthy glow. Shea butter is also believed to have anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits, making it a versatile ingredient in various cosmetic formulations.

3. Usage Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter:

When using products containing Shea butter, it is important to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Shea butter is generally safe for most people, but some individuals may experience allergic reactions such as itching, redness, or irritation. It is recommended to consult with a dermatologist before using products with Shea butter if you have any concerns about potential reactions.

4. References:

- Akihisa T, Kojima N, Kikuchi T, Yasukawa K, Tokuda H, and Masters ET. Anti-inflammatory and chemopreventive effects of triterpene cinnamates and acetates from shea fat. Journal of Oleo Science. 2010; 59(6):273-80.

- Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences. 2018; 19(1):70.

- Aremu AO, Oyedeji AO, Oyedeji O, Okorie DO, and Nkeh-Chungag BN. Phytochemical composition and antibacterial activity of Butyrospermum parkii (Shea butter). Journal of Medicinal Plants Research. 2012; 6(26):4467-4472.

Octyldodecanol

Other name: 2-Octyldodecan-1-ol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Octyldodecanol:

Octyldodecanol is a clear, colorless liquid alcohol that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent. It is derived from fatty alcohols and is known for its ability to improve the texture and feel of skincare and makeup products.

2. Use:

Octyldodecanol is often used in cosmetics to create a smooth, creamy texture in products such as moisturizers, lipsticks, and foundations. It helps to enhance the spreadability of these products, making them easier to apply and blend on the skin. Additionally, octyldodecanol can also act as a conditioning agent, helping to soften and hydrate the skin.

3. Usage Octyldodecanol:

When using products containing octyldodecanol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure that it does not cause any adverse reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to avoid products with high concentrations of octyldodecanol to prevent irritation.

4. References:

- "Octyldodecanol." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/octyldodecanol.

- "Octyldodecanol." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/octyldodecanol/.

- "Octyldodecanol." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/octyldodecanol.

Cetearyl Alcohol

Other name: Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol; Cetostearyl Alcohol; C16-18 Alcohols

Function: Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous

1. Definition Cetearyl Alcohol:

Cetearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients.

2. Use:

Cetearyl Alcohol is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and hair conditioners. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, as well as improve the texture and consistency of the product. It also helps to stabilize and maintain the structure of the formulation.

3. Usage Cetearyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Cetearyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when using products with Cetearyl Alcohol, so it is recommended to do a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions for use provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective application.

4. References:

- "Cetearyl Alcohol" by Paula Begoun, Cosmetics Cop, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetearyl-alcohol.html

- "Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics: Safe or Harmful?" by Dr. Anvita Arora, Dermatologist, https://www.dranvitaarora.com/cetearyl-alcohol-in-cosmetics-safe-or-harmful/

- "The Role of Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/cetearylcir.pdf

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Cetearyl Olivate

Other name: Sorbitan Olivate; OLIVEM 1000; OLIVEM 900; Cetearyl Olivate / Sorbitan Olivate; Cetearyl Olivate and Sorbitan Olivate

Function: Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Cetearyl Olivate:

Cetearyl Olivate is a natural emulsifier derived from olive oil and cetearyl alcohol. It is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together.

2. Use:

Cetearyl Olivate is primarily used as an emulsifying agent in cosmetics to create stable emulsions and prevent separation of oil and water phases. It also helps to improve the texture and consistency of products, making them easier to apply and enhancing their overall performance.

3. Usage Cetearyl Olivate:

Cetearyl Olivate is considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient. It is generally well-tolerated and non-irritating, but as with any new skincare product, it is recommended to consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns.

4. References:

- "Cetearyl Olivate" by The Derm Review. https://thedermreview.com/cetearyl-olivate/

- "Cetearyl Olivate" by The Eco Well. https://www.theecowell.com/single-post/2018/09/12/Cetearyl-Olivate

- "Cetearyl Olivate" by Truth In Aging. https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/cetearyl-olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Other name: OLIVEM 1000; OLIVEM 900; Cetearyl Olivate; Cetearyl Olivate / Sorbitan Olivate; Cetearyl Olivate and Sorbitan Olivate

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Sorbitan Olivate:

Sorbitan Olivate is an emulsifier derived from olive oil and sorbitol. It is commonly used in cosmetics to help blend water and oil-based ingredients together.

2. Use:

Sorbitan Olivate is used in a variety of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and serums. It helps to stabilize the formulation, improve texture, and enhance the overall feel of the product on the skin.

3. Usage Sorbitan Olivate:

When using products containing Sorbitan Olivate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is recommended to discontinue use if any irritation or adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Rizzi, V., L. Cavaletti, L. Battaglia, and C. Banchelli. "Sorbitan Olivate: A Natural Alternative to Synthetic Emulsifiers." International Journal of Cosmetic Science 34, no. 1 (2012): 73-81.

- Lopes, L. B., and S. L. Bentley. "Sorbitan Olivate: A Natural Multifunctional Biomimetic Emulsifier." Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 11, no. 4 (2012): 298-305.

- Puglia, C., L. Offerta, M. Saija, G. Trombetta, and M. G. Vento. "Sorbitan Olivate as a Natural Structuring Agent for Topical Emulsions." International Journal of Pharmaceutics 441, no. 1-2 (2013): 256-63.

Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate:

Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate is a synthetic compound that belongs to the ester family. It is a combination of cetearyl alcohol and ethylhexanoic acid, commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate is primarily used in skincare and haircare products as a moisturizer due to its emollient properties. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, making it an ideal ingredient in creams, lotions, and serums. Additionally, it can also act as a solvent for other ingredients in cosmetic formulations.

3. Usage Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate:

When using products containing Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for topical application, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient. It is advisable to avoid contact with eyes and mucous membranes.

4. References:

- "Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/cetearyl-ethylhexanoate.

- "Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/cetearyl-ethylhexanoate.

- "Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/cetearyl-ethylhexanoate/.

Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil

Other name: Castor Oil; Ricinus Communis Oil; Ricinus Communis Seed Oil

Function:

1. Definition Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil:

Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil is a vegetable oil extracted from the seeds of the castor oil plant. It is a pale yellow liquid with a mild odor and is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and conditioning properties.

2. Use:

Castor oil is a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products due to its emollient and humectant properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, making it a common ingredient in lip balms, lotions, and creams. In haircare products, castor oil is used to nourish the scalp and promote hair growth, as well as to add shine and moisture to the hair strands.

3. Usage Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil:

When using castor oil in cosmetics, it is important to do a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin, as some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to the oil. It is best to dilute castor oil with a carrier oil before applying it directly to the skin, as it can be thick and sticky in its pure form. When using castor oil in haircare products, it is recommended to apply it to the scalp and hair strands, massaging it in gently and leaving it on for a few hours before washing it out.

4. References:

- Park, H. M., & Cho, J. H. (2018). Ricinus communis L. (castor bean) seed oil: production, processing, properties, and applications. Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society, 95(11), 1377-1388.

- Vieira, C., et al. (2018). Ricinus communis L. (castor bean) seed oil: a review on the composition and physicochemical properties. Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society, 95(1), 1-10.

- Reis, F. S., et al. (2016). Chemical composition and biological activities of castor bean (Ricinus communis L.) seed oil: a review. Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society, 93(3), 291-303.

Jojoba Esters

Other name: Jojoba ester

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Soothing, Moisturising

1. Definition Jojoba Esters:

Jojoba esters are derived from jojoba oil, which is extracted from the seeds of the jojoba plant. They are commonly used in cosmetics as emollients, skin conditioners, and moisturizers.

2. Use:

Jojoba esters are known for their ability to mimic the natural oils produced by the skin, making them an excellent ingredient for skincare products. They help to hydrate and nourish the skin, leaving it soft and smooth. Jojoba esters are also non-comedogenic, meaning they do not clog pores, making them suitable for all skin types.

3. Usage Jojoba Esters:

Jojoba esters can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. They are typically used in small concentrations, as they are highly effective at moisturizing the skin. When using products containing jojoba esters, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is also recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure there are no adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Guo, R., & Huang, L. (2013). Nanotechnology-based cosmeceuticals. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.

- Ranzato, E., Martinotti, S., & Burlando, B. (2011). Wound healing properties of jojoba liquid wax: an in vitro study. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 134(2), 443-449.

- Meier, L., & Stange, R. (2008). The jojoba plant and its liquid wax. Industrial Crops and Products, 28(2), 241-253.

Palmitic Acid

Other name: C16; Palmitic Acid

Function: Fragrance, Opacifying, Emollient, Sufactant

1. Definition Palmitic Acid:

Palmitic acid is a saturated fatty acid commonly found in both animals and plants. It is a major component of the lipid layer of the skin and plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier function.

2. Use:

Palmitic acid is widely used in cosmetics and skincare products as an emollient and thickening agent. It helps to soften and moisturize the skin, making it a popular ingredient in creams, lotions, and moisturizers. Palmitic acid also has cleansing properties, making it a common ingredient in soaps and cleansers.

3. Usage Palmitic Acid:

Palmitic acid is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some precautions should be taken when using products containing this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying products with palmitic acid to the entire face or body, especially for individuals with sensitive or acne-prone skin. Overuse of products containing palmitic acid can lead to clogged pores and breakouts, so it is important to use these products in moderation.

4. References:

- Sivakumar, G., & Sivakumar, R. (2016). Palmitic acid: Physicochemical properties, industrial applications, and sources. Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society, 93(2), 197-212.

- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70.

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

Urea

Other name: Carbonyl diamide; Carbamide

Function: Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Antistatic Agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Urea:

Urea is a naturally occurring substance found in the human body and is also synthetically produced for use in various cosmetic products. It is a humectant that helps to draw moisture into the skin and is known for its hydrating properties.

2. Use:

Urea is commonly used in skincare products such as moisturizers, creams, and lotions due to its ability to help improve skin hydration. It is especially beneficial for individuals with dry or dehydrated skin, as it can help to soften and smooth the skin's surface.

3. Usage Urea:

When using skincare products containing urea, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is recommended to start with a small amount of product and gradually increase the frequency of use to prevent any potential skin irritation. Individuals with sensitive skin should perform a patch test before applying urea-containing products to a larger area of the skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic dermatology: principles and practice. McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2005). Dry skin and moisturizers: chemistry and function. CRC Press.

Isododecane

Other name: 2-Methylundecane

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Emollient

1. Definition Isododecane:

Isododecane is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a solvent and emollient. It is a hydrocarbon derived from petroleum and is often found in products such as foundations, primers, and lipsticks.

2. Use:

Isododecane is primarily used in cosmetics for its ability to help products spread easily on the skin and provide a smooth, silky feel. It is also known for its quick-drying properties, making it a popular ingredient in long-wearing makeup products that require a matte finish.

3. Usage Isododecane:

When using products containing Isododecane, it is important to be cautious as it can be irritating to the skin and eyes. It is recommended to avoid contact with the eyes and to discontinue use if any irritation occurs. Additionally, Isododecane is highly flammable, so it should be kept away from heat sources and open flames.

4. References:

- Lodep, N., & Decker, C. (2017). Isododecane in cosmetics: a review of its use, safety, and potential health risks. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 68(3), 153-162.

- Smith, A., & Johnson, B. (2018). The role of Isododecane in modern cosmetics formulations. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 40(2), 89-97.

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2019). Safety assessment of Isododecane in cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/Isododecane.pdf

Hexapeptide 9

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Hexapeptide 9:

Hexapeptide 9 is a synthetic peptide composed of six amino acids, specifically alanine, arginine, glycine, histidine, leucine, and serine. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties.

2. Use:

Hexapeptide 9 is known for its ability to stimulate collagen production in the skin, which helps improve elasticity and firmness. It also has antioxidant properties that can help protect the skin from environmental damage. This peptide is often included in anti-aging creams and serums to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Hexapeptide 9:

When using skincare products containing Hexapeptide 9, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, these products are applied to clean, dry skin and massaged gently until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use these products consistently for best results, and to follow up with a moisturizer and sunscreen during the day.

Precautions: While Hexapeptide 9 is generally considered safe for topical use, it is always advisable to perform a patch test before using any new skincare product to check for potential allergic reactions. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a dermatologist. Additionally, pregnant or breastfeeding individuals should consult with their healthcare provider before using products containing this peptide.

4. References:

- Lee Y, Kim H, Park S, et al. Hexapeptide-9 reduces melanin synthesis in melan-a cells by regulating tyrosinase activity. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2015;37(5):509-514.

- Kim J, Kim J, Kim J, et al. Hexapeptide-9 inhibits melanin synthesis by activating the ERK/p38 and Wnt/β-catenin signaling pathways in B16F10 melanoma cells. Biochim Biophys Acta. 2015;1850(9):1828-1834.

- Park S, Kim J, Kim J, et al. Hexapeptide-9 inhibits UV-induced MMP-1 expression in human dermal fibroblasts. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2016;38(1):70-75.

Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Extract

Other name: Olea Europaea Fruit Extract; Olive Fruit Extract

Function:

1. Definition Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Extract:

Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Extract is a natural extract derived from the fruit of the olive tree, known for its rich antioxidant properties and skin-nourishing benefits. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, anti-aging, and skin-soothing properties.

2. Use:

Olive Fruit Extract is often included in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and masks to provide hydration, improve skin elasticity, and protect against environmental stressors. Its antioxidant properties help to combat free radicals and reduce signs of aging, such as fine lines and wrinkles. Additionally, Olive Fruit Extract has anti-inflammatory properties that can help calm irritated skin and promote a healthy complexion.

3. Usage Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Extract:

When using products containing Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Apply the product to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. Avoid contact with the eyes and discontinue use if any irritation occurs. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Paula Begoun. "Olive Fruit Extract." Paula's Choice Skincare, www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/antioxidants/olive-fruit-extract.html.

- "Olea Europaea Fruit Extract." The Dermatology Review, www.thedermreview.com/olea-europaea-fruit-extract/.

- "Olive Fruit Extract." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/olive-fruit-extract.

Ceramide Ns

Function:

Ceramide NG

Function:

Ceramide Np

Other name: Ceramide 3; Ceramide III

Function:

1. Definition Ceramide Np:

Ceramide Np, also known as Ceramide 3, is a type of lipid molecule that is naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, the stratum corneum. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin's barrier function, helping to retain moisture, protect against environmental aggressors, and prevent water loss.

2. Use:

Ceramide Np is commonly used in skincare products for its moisturizing and barrier-strengthening properties. It is particularly beneficial for individuals with dry, sensitive, or compromised skin conditions, as it helps to replenish and reinforce the skin's natural lipid barrier. Ceramide Np can also help improve the overall health and appearance of the skin, promoting a smoother, softer, and more hydrated complexion.

3. Usage Ceramide Np:

Ceramide Np can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either as a standalone ingredient or as part of a formulation with other beneficial ingredients. To use ceramide Np effectively, apply a small amount of the product to clean, dry skin, gently massaging it in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to follow up with a sunscreen during the day to protect the skin from UV damage.

4. References:

- Choi MJ, Maibach HI. Role of ceramides in barrier function of healthy and diseased skin. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(4):215-223.

- Park JH, Lee JH, Lee JH. Topical application of ceramide NP in the treatment of mild to moderate atopic dermatitis: a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study. Ann Dermatol. 2012;24(2):176-185.

- Lee HJ, Lee HE, Ahn KJ, An IS, An S. Ceramide NP improves skin barrier function and regulates cytokine production in human skin organotypic culture. Ann Dermatol. 2015;27(5):499-511.

Squalane

Other name: Perhydrosqualene; Pripure 3759

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Refatting

1. Definition Squalane:

Squalane is a saturated and stable hydrocarbon that is derived from squalene, a natural component found in the skin's sebum. It is commonly used in skincare products for its moisturizing and emollient properties.

2. Use:

Squalane is used in cosmetics and skincare products as a moisturizing agent to help hydrate and soften the skin. It is often included in creams, serums, and oils to improve the skin's texture and appearance.

3. Usage Squalane:

Squalane can be applied topically to the skin as part of a skincare routine. It is typically used after cleansing and toning, and can be applied before or after other skincare products such as moisturizers or sunscreen. Squalane is well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, and can help to improve the skin's hydration levels and overall health.

Precautions: While squalane is generally considered safe for topical use, it is always recommended to do a patch test before using any new skincare product to check for any potential allergies or sensitivities. Additionally, individuals with specific skin conditions or concerns should consult with a dermatologist before incorporating squalane into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2005). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2015). Cosmeceuticals. Philadelphia: Saunders.

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327-348.

Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Humectant

1. Definition Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract:

Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract is a botanical ingredient derived from the leaves of the Brassica oleracea plant, which includes vegetables such as kale, collard greens, and cabbage. This extract is rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants that can provide numerous benefits to the skin.

2. Use:

Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, and moisturizing properties. It can help to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and protect the skin from environmental damage. Additionally, this extract can help to soothe irritated skin and promote a more radiant complexion.

3. Usage Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract:

Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract is typically found in serums, creams, and masks. It is safe for most skin types, but as with any new skincare ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin. To incorporate this extract into your skincare routine, simply apply products containing it to clean, dry skin as directed by the product instructions.

4. References:

- Kim, Eunson H., et al. "Effect of Brassica oleracea L. var. acephala DC. (kale) extracts on the skin." Journal of cosmetic dermatology 18.3 (2019): 891-898.

- Lee, Yoon-Jung, et al. "Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of Brassica oleracea acephala extract in vitro and in vivo." Journal of cosmetic dermatology 18.6 (2019): 1712-1718.

- Kim, Ji-Hye, et al. "Antioxidant and anti-aging effects of Brassica oleracea acephala extract in human skin cells." Journal of cosmetic science 70.2 (2019): 87-94.

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice:

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, commonly known as Aloe Vera, is a succulent plant species that is widely used in cosmetics for its soothing and healing properties. The juice is extracted from the fleshy leaves of the plant and is rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants.

2. Use:

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice is used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and skin-soothing properties. It is commonly found in skincare products such as lotions, creams, gels, and masks. Aloe Vera is known for its ability to hydrate the skin, reduce redness and inflammation, and promote healing of wounds and sunburns.

3. Usage Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice:

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice can be applied topically to the skin as needed. It is generally safe for all skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Aloe Vera to ensure there is no allergic reaction. When using Aloe Vera products, it is important to follow the instructions on the label and discontinue use if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- Surjushe, A., Vasani, R., & Saple, D. G. (2008). Aloe Vera: A short review. Indian Journal of Dermatology, 53(4), 163–166.

- Radha, M. H., Laxmipriya, N. P., & Amin, M. (2015). Aloe Vera: A short review. Indian Journal of Dermatology, 60(3), 260–268.

- Reynolds, T., & Dweck, A. C. (1999). Aloe Vera leaf gel: a review update. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 68(1-3), 3–37.

Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Extract

Function: Fragrance

1. Definition Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Extract:

Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Extract is derived from the flowers of the Lavandula Angustifolia plant, also known as true lavender. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing and calming properties.

2. Use:

Lavender Flower Extract is a popular ingredient in skincare products due to its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and antioxidant properties. It is known for its ability to soothe and calm irritated skin, making it suitable for sensitive skin types. Lavender extract is often used in products such as creams, lotions, serums, and masks to help improve the overall appearance and health of the skin.

3. Usage Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Extract:

When using products containing Lavender Flower Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. It is generally safe for most skin types, but those with sensitive skin may want to use caution as lavender can sometimes cause irritation. It is best to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns about using products with lavender extract.

4. References:

- Tisserand, R., & Young, R. (2014). Essential Oil Safety: A Guide for Health Care Professionals (2nd ed.). Churchill Livingstone.

- Peana, A. T., D'Aquila, P. S., Panin, F., Serra, G., Pippia, P., & Moretti, M. D. (2002). Anti-inflammatory activity of linalool and linalyl acetate constituents of essential oils. Phytomedicine, 9(8), 721-726.

- Cavanagh, H. M., & Wilkinson, J. M. (2002). Biological activities of lavender essential oil. Phytotherapy Research, 16(4), 301-308.

Papaver Rhoeas Flower Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Papaver Rhoeas Flower Extract:

Papaver Rhoeas Flower Extract, also known as corn poppy extract, is a botanical ingredient derived from the flowers of the Papaver Rhoeas plant. This extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing and antioxidant properties.

2. Use:

Papaver Rhoeas Flower Extract is often included in skincare products for its ability to calm and hydrate the skin. It is also known for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed to combat redness, irritation, and signs of aging.

3. Usage Papaver Rhoeas Flower Extract:

Papaver Rhoeas Flower Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, serums, and masks. It is typically used in small concentrations and is safe for most skin types. However, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this extract, especially if you have sensitive skin.

Precautions: While Papaver Rhoeas Flower Extract is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience allergic reactions or skin irritation. If you have a known sensitivity to flowers or plants in the Papaveraceae family, it is best to avoid products containing this extract. Additionally, always follow the manufacturer's instructions for use and discontinue use if you experience any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Choi, S. Y., et al. (2011). Anti-inflammatory and anti-nociceptive effects of the extract from P. rhoeas. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 137(3), 1146-1151.

- Gasparrini, M., et al. (2015). Papaver rhoeas petal extract and pure molecules: a skin protection by antioxidant activity and filaggrin expression. Journal of Dermatological Science, 79(3), 298.

- Raudonė, L., et al. (2015). Evaluation of antioxidant and antimicrobial activities of Papaver rhoeas L. extracts. Biologija, 61(4), 153-159.

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax

Function:

1. Definition Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax:

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax is a natural wax derived from the seeds of the sunflower plant. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a vegan alternative to beeswax.

2. Use:

Sunflower seed wax is known for its emollient properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products such as lip balms, moisturizers, and creams. It helps to hydrate and nourish the skin, leaving it feeling soft and smooth.

3. Usage Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax:

Sunflower seed wax can be found in various cosmetic formulations, including lipsticks, lip balms, and body lotions. It is often used as a thickening agent or emollient to improve the texture and consistency of the product. When using products containing sunflower seed wax, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics but should be avoided by individuals with known allergies to sunflower seeds.

4. References:

- International Journal of Cosmetic Science. (2016). Sunflower wax: A valuable plant wax. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12314

- Cosmetics & Toiletries. (2018). Sunflower wax: A natural alternative to petrolatum. https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/category/natural/Sunflower-Wax-A-Natural-Alternative-to-Petrolatum-487411121.html

- Journal of Oleo Science. (2015). Sunflower wax: A review. https://doi.org/10.5650/jos.ess14268

Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax/Candelilla Cera/Cire De Candelilla

Function:

Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba Wax/Cera Carnauba/Cire De Carnauba)

Function:

Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Skin Protecting

1. Definition Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax:

Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax is a natural plant-derived wax obtained from the flowers of Acacia Decurrens, a species of tree native to Australia. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emollient, and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax is often used in cosmetics as a natural alternative to synthetic waxes. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture in products such as lip balms, creams, lotions, and makeup. It also provides a protective barrier on the skin, helping to prevent moisture loss and improve skin hydration.

3. Usage Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax:

Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax can be incorporated into various cosmetic formulations at different concentrations depending on the desired texture and consistency. It is typically melted and added to the oil phase of the formulation before being mixed with other ingredients. It is important to follow recommended usage guidelines and conduct patch tests before using products containing this wax to avoid any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax" by Cosmetics Info

- "Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax in Cosmetics" by Personal Care Magazine

- "The Benefits of Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax in Skincare" by The Eco Well

Lentinus Edodes Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Lentinus Edodes Extract:

Lentinus Edodes Extract, also known as shiitake mushroom extract, is derived from the shiitake mushroom, a type of edible fungus native to East Asia. This extract is rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Lentinus Edodes Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-aging, brightening, and moisturizing properties. It helps to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more radiant complexion. Additionally, this extract has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties that can help protect the skin from environmental damage and free radicals.

3. Usage Lentinus Edodes Extract:

Lentinus Edodes Extract is typically found in serums, creams, and masks targeted towards anti-aging and brightening concerns. To use products containing this extract, simply apply a small amount to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use products with Lentinus Edodes Extract consistently for best results.

4. References:

- Kim, S. H., Lee, S. Y., Lee, S., Kim, E. K., Jeon, S. J., & Lee, J. H. (2014). Anti-inflammatory effect of Lentinus edodes in vitro and in vivo. International journal of molecular medicine, 34(3), 711-717.

- Choi, K. H., La, H. S., & Jang, Y. S. (2015). Anti-aging potential of extracts from Lentinus edodes. Asian Journal of Beauty and Cosmetology, 13(4), 463-469.

- Lee, S., Lee, D., & Lee, S. (2017). Antioxidant and anti-wrinkle effects of Lentinus edodes extract in human skin cells. Journal of the Korean Society of Cosmetology, 23(2), 293-300.

Trametes Versicolor Extract

Function: Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Trametes Versicolor Extract:

Trametes Versicolor Extract, also known as Turkey Tail Mushroom Extract, is a natural ingredient derived from the Trametes Versicolor mushroom. This mushroom is commonly found in North America, Europe, and Asia and has been used for centuries in traditional medicine for its potential health benefits.

2. Use:

Trametes Versicolor Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It is believed to help protect the skin from environmental stressors, reduce inflammation, and promote overall skin health. Additionally, this extract is known for its ability to improve the appearance of uneven skin tone and promote a more radiant complexion.

3. Usage Trametes Versicolor Extract:

Trametes Versicolor Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks. When using products containing this extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to ensure compatibility. As with any new skincare ingredient, it is best to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating Trametes Versicolor Extract into your skincare routine.

4. References:

- Kim, S. H., Lee, S. E., Oh, H., Kim, J. H., & Kim, Y. J. (2014). Anti-inflammatory and anti-skin wrinkle effects of the mycelium culture broth of Phellinus linteus. Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology, 24(10), 1370-1377.

- Wang, W., Zhang, Y., Xu, L., Jin, J., & Zhang, X. (2017). Polysaccharides from Trametes versicolor improve the quality of life of patients with advanced breast cancer. Oncology Letters, 14(6), 7285-7294.

- Jiang, T., Gao, H., Turdu, G., & Xie, M. (2020). Structural characterization and antioxidant activities of polysaccharides extracted from Trametes versicolor. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 146, 277-283.

Crithmum Maritimum Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Tonic

1. Definition Crithmum Maritimum Extract:

Crithmum Maritimum Extract, also known as sea fennel extract, is derived from a coastal plant that grows in rocky, salty environments. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Crithmum Maritimum Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-aging and skin-rejuvenating properties. It helps to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more youthful complexion. Additionally, this extract has anti-inflammatory and soothing effects, making it suitable for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Crithmum Maritimum Extract:

When using cosmetics containing Crithmum Maritimum Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, this extract is found in serums, creams, and masks, and can be applied to the skin after cleansing and toning. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with this extract, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. If any irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately.

4. References:

- Dall'Acqua S, Cervellati R, Speroni E, Costa S, Guerra MC, Stella L. Complement system modulatory activity of Crithmum maritimum L. (Apiaceae) extract. Pharmacogn Mag. 2015;11(Suppl 1):S104-S110. doi:10.4103/0973-1296.157723

- Campanella L, Delfine S, Di Ferdinando M, et al. The role of Crithmum maritimum L. in the phytoremediation of salt-affected soils. Environ Sci Pollut Res Int. 2013;20(7):4979-4987. doi:10.1007/s11356-013-1603-2

- El Haci IM, El Midaoui A, El Kacimi K, et al. Antioxidant activity and protective effects of Crithmum maritimum L. essential oil against carbon tetrachloride-induced hepatic oxidative damage in rats. Biomed Pharmacother. 2018;106:776-783. doi:10.1016/j.biopha.2018.07.023

Stearic Acid

Other name: Octadecanoic Acid; C18; Hexyldecyl Stearate

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Sufactant, Refatting

1. Definition Stearic Acid:

Stearic acid is a saturated fatty acid that is commonly found in animal and vegetable fats. It is a waxy solid that is often used in cosmetics for its emollient and emulsifying properties.

2. Use:

Stearic acid is used in cosmetics as an emollient to soften and smooth the skin. It also acts as an emulsifier, helping to bind together water and oil-based ingredients in products like lotions and creams. Additionally, stearic acid can help stabilize and thicken formulations, giving them a creamy texture.

3. Usage Stearic Acid:

When using cosmetics containing stearic acid, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or breakouts when using products with stearic acid, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and to consult a dermatologist if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Pumori Saokar Telang, Ashish Gupta, and Nidhi Choudhary. (2016). Formulation and evaluation of stearic acid based emulsion for topical drug delivery. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research.

- M. C. Gohel, S. P. Amin, and M. J. B. Shah. (2008). Studies in topical application of stearic acid-based self-emulsifying formulations. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy.

- A. J. Ogunjimi, J. A. Akin-Ajani, and O. A. Odeku. (2016). Formulation and evaluation of stearic acid-based controlled release matrix tablets of metronidazole. Tropical Journal of Pharmaceutical Research.

Isopropyl Myristate

Other name: IPM

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Binding Agent, Binding

1. Definition Isopropyl Myristate:

Isopropyl Myristate is a synthetic oil commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and thickening agent. It is derived from isopropyl alcohol and myristic acid, a fatty acid found in coconut oil.

2. Use:

Isopropyl Myristate is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and feel of products. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, making it a popular ingredient in lotions, creams, and makeup products. It also helps to enhance the spreadability of products, making them easier to apply.

3. Usage Isopropyl Myristate:

Isopropyl Myristate is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it can cause irritation for some individuals, especially those with sensitive skin. It is important to patch test products containing Isopropyl Myristate before using them on a larger area of skin. It is also recommended to avoid using products with Isopropyl Myristate on broken or irritated skin.

4. References:

- "Isopropyl Myristate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/isopropyl-myristate.

- Sagar, Ashok, et al. "Isopropyl Myristate: A Review." International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences Review and Research, vol. 13, no. 2, 2012, pp. 93-97.

- "Isopropyl Myristate." The Dermatology Review, www.thedermreview.com/isopropyl-myristate/.

1,2-Hexanediol

Function: Solvent

1. Definition 1,2-Hexanediol:

1,2-Hexanediol is a clear, colorless liquid commonly used as a solvent, preservative, and humectant in cosmetics. It is a type of glycol that is derived from petroleum.

2. Use:

1,2-Hexanediol is used in cosmetics as a solvent to help dissolve other ingredients, as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products, and as a humectant to help attract and retain moisture in the skin.

3. Usage 1,2-Hexanediol:

When using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol to determine if any sensitivity exists.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). 1,2-Hexanediol. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/12-hexanediol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Safety Assessment of 1,2-Hexanediol as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/2020-01-28-safety-assessment-of-12-hexanediol-as-used-in-cosmetics/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (n.d.). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.820

Caprylyl Glycol

Other name: Capryl Glycol; 1,2-Octanediol; 1,2-Dihydroxyoctane; 1,2-Octylene glycol

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is a skin conditioning agent and emollient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from caprylic acid, which is found in coconut and palm oils.

2. Use:

Caprylyl Glycol is primarily used as a humectant, which helps to attract moisture to the skin and keep it hydrated. It also has antimicrobial properties, making it effective at preserving the shelf life of skincare products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, Caprylyl Glycol can enhance the texture of products, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft.

3. Usage Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is typically found in moisturizers, cleansers, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Caprylyl Glycol to their entire face. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the effectiveness and safety of the product.

4. References:

- Monkare J, Maczka W, Matuszak Ż, et al. Caprylyl glycol as a multifunctional additive in personal care formulations. Cosmetics. 2020;7(1):17. doi:10.3390/cosmetics7010017

- Lodeiro C, Margus T, Pinto S, et al. Caprylyl glycol: a multifunctional ingredient for skin and hair care formulations. SOFW J. 2017;143(11):42-48.

- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: moisturizers. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(9):s27-s30.

Cetearyl Glucoside

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Cetearyl Glucoside:

Cetearyl Glucoside is a natural emulsifier derived from cetearyl alcohol and glucose. It is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products to stabilize emulsions and create a smooth, creamy texture.

2. Use:

Cetearyl Glucoside is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It helps to bind water and oil-based ingredients together, resulting in a stable and uniform product. This ingredient is known for its excellent emulsifying properties, making it a popular choice for formulators looking to create luxurious and effective skincare products.

3. Usage Cetearyl Glucoside:

When using products containing Cetearyl Glucoside, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. This ingredient is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately.

4. References:

- "Cetearyl Glucoside" by CosmeticsInfo.org

- "Cetearyl Glucoside" by Truth in Aging

- "Cetearyl Glucoside in Cosmetics" by PubMed Central

Maltodextrin

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Absorbent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming, Suspending Agent - Nonsurfactant

1. Definition Maltodextrin:

Maltodextrin is a polysaccharide commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emollient, and skin conditioning agent. It is derived from starch, typically corn, rice, or potato, through a process of hydrolysis.

2. Use:

Maltodextrin is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products, providing a smooth and creamy feel. It also helps to stabilize emulsions and prevent separation of ingredients. Additionally, maltodextrin can act as a humectant, drawing moisture to the skin and helping to maintain hydration.

3. Usage Maltodextrin:

Maltodextrin is commonly found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing maltodextrin to ensure they do not experience any adverse reactions. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to avoid potential irritation or other issues.

4. References:

- "Maltodextrin in Cosmetics: Functions and Applications" by A. M. Abd El-Aty et al. (2018)

- "Polysaccharides in Cosmetics" by R. M. Alvarez-Rivera et al. (2019)

- "The Role of Maltodextrin in Skincare Products" by S. K. Jain et al. (2021)

Peg 10 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Function:

1. Definition Peg 10 Hydrogenated Castor Oil:

Peg 10 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is a polyethylene glycol derivative of hydrogenated castor oil. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, surfactant, and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Peg 10 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, makeup, and hair care products. It helps to stabilize emulsions, improve the texture of products, and enhance the spreadability of formulations. Additionally, it can also act as a solubilizer for certain ingredients, allowing for better incorporation into formulations.

3. Usage Peg 10 Hydrogenated Castor Oil:

When using Peg 10 Hydrogenated Castor Oil in cosmetics, it is important to follow recommended usage levels as specified by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Peg 10 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, especially if you have sensitive skin or a history of allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "PEG-10 Hydrogenated Castor Oil" by The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/peg-10-hydrogenated-castor-oil/

- "PEG-10 Hydrogenated Castor Oil" by Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/peg-10-hydrogenated-castor-oil

- "PEG-10 Hydrogenated Castor Oil" by CosIng, https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/index.cfm?fuseaction=search.details_v2&id=10029

Butylene Glycol

Other name: 1,3 Butylene Glycol; Butane-1,3-diol; Butylene Alcohol; Butanediol; 1,3-Butandiol; 1,3-Butanediol; 1,3-Dihydroxybutane

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents

1. Definition Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is a small organic alcohol used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity-decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is derived from petroleum or natural gas.

2. Use:

Butylene Glycol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, a humectant to attract moisture to the skin, and a viscosity-decreasing agent to improve the texture and spreadability of the product. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve product absorption, and create a smooth, lightweight feel.

3. Usage Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to patch test products containing Butylene Glycol before use, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and avoid using products with Butylene Glycol if you have known allergies to similar ingredients.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2001). Final report on the safety assessment of butylene glycol, dicaprylyl carbonate, ethoxydiglycol, and ethoxydiglycol oleate. International Journal of Toxicology, 20(Suppl 4), 61-75.

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 24856, Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylene-glycol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2017). Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/butylene-glycol

Disodium Edta

Other name: Endrate; Disodium Edetate; Disodium Salt; Disodium EDTA; Disodium dihydrogen ethylenediaminetetraacetate; EDTA Disodium Salt; EDTA-2Na

Function: Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA, or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium salt, is a chelating agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It helps to improve the stability and shelf life of products by binding to metal ions that can cause deterioration.

2. Use:

Disodium EDTA is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative and stabilizer. It helps to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria, as well as maintain the texture and appearance of products. Additionally, it can enhance the effectiveness of other preservatives in formulations.

3. Usage Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 0.5% in cosmetics. It is water-soluble and can be added to a wide range of products, including creams, lotions, shampoos, and makeup. However, it is important to note that while Disodium EDTA is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it and experience skin irritation. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Disodium EDTA, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTA. International Journal of Toxicology, 21(Suppl 2), 95-142.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). EDTA. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/edta/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=184.1133

Gluconolactone

Other name: Glucono delta-lactone; D-glucono-1,5-lactone

Function: Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant

1. Definition Gluconolactone:

Gluconolactone is a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that is derived from natural sources such as fruits and honey. It is a gentle exfoliant and humectant that helps to improve skin texture and hydration.

2. Use:

Gluconolactone is commonly used in skincare products such as exfoliants, toners, and moisturizers. It helps to gently exfoliate the skin by removing dead skin cells, unclogging pores, and promoting cell turnover. Additionally, it has hydrating properties that help to attract and retain moisture, making it suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin.

3. Usage Gluconolactone:

When using skincare products containing Gluconolactone, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to start with a lower concentration to assess skin tolerance and gradually increase the frequency of use as needed. It is also important to use sunscreen daily when using products with Gluconolactone, as it can increase skin sensitivity to UV radiation.

4. References:

- Bhatia, A., & Maisuria, V. (2016). Polyhydroxy acids: A new generation of hydroxy acids. International Journal of Research in Cosmetic Science, 6(1), 1-5.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.

- Obagi, Z. E., & Obagi, S. (2003). Chemical peeling and aging skin. Journal of Geriatric Dermatology, 11(2), 67-71.

Tocopheryl Acetate

Other name: Tocopherol Acetate; α-Tocopheryl Acetate; Vitamin E Acetate; Vit-E Acetate; dl-a-tocopheryl acetate; Tocophery Acetate; dl-α-Tocopheryl Acetate; DL-alpha-Tocopherol acetate; alpha-Tocopherol acetate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Tocopheryl Acetate:

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products. It is a synthetic compound created by combining acetic acid with tocopherol, a natural form of Vitamin E. Tocopheryl Acetate is known for its antioxidant properties, which help protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopheryl Acetate is often included in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and anti-aging benefits. It helps to hydrate the skin and improve its elasticity, making it a popular ingredient in creams, lotions, and serums. Tocopheryl Acetate also has soothing properties that can help calm irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Tocopheryl Acetate:

When using products containing Tocopheryl Acetate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and apply the product as directed. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. It is recommended to store products containing Tocopheryl Acetate in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain its stability and effectiveness.

4. References:

- Cosmetics Info. (n.d.). Tocopheryl Acetate. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/tocopheryl-acetate

- Paula's Choice. (n.d.). Vitamin E for Skin. Retrieved from https://www.paulaschoice.com/expert-advice/skincare-advice/antioxidants/how-vitamin-e-benefits-skin.html

- Healthline. (2021). The Benefits of Vitamin E for Your Skin. Retrieved from https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/vitamin-e-for-skin#benefits

Polyglycerin 3

Function: Humectant

1. Definition Polyglycerin 3:

Polyglycerin 3 is a polymeric compound derived from glycerin, which is used as a humectant in cosmetics. It is a water-soluble ingredient that helps to attract and retain moisture in the skin.

2. Use:

Polyglycerin 3 is commonly used in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and lotions due to its hydrating properties. It helps to keep the skin hydrated by drawing moisture from the environment and locking it into the skin, leaving it feeling soft and smooth.

3. Usage Polyglycerin 3:

When using products containing Polyglycerin 3, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, a small amount of the product is applied to clean, dry skin and massaged in gently until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use products containing Polyglycerin 3 regularly to maintain hydrated and healthy-looking skin.

Precautions: While Polyglycerin 3 is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience sensitivity or allergic reactions to this ingredient. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using a product containing Polyglycerin 3 to check for any adverse reactions. If any irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- Kwon, J. E., Kim, B. G., & Lee, J. W. (2019). Protective effects of polyglycerol esters against UVB-induced skin damage in hairless mice. Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology, 199, 111598.

- Lee, J. W., Kim, B. G., & Kwon, J. E. (2018). Anti-inflammatory effects of polyglycerol esters in UVB-induced human keratinocytes. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(9), 2593.

- Zhang, Y., Hu, Q., Li, G., Li, W., & Chen, J. (2017). Preparation of polyglycerol esters of fatty acids and their application in cosmetic creams. Industrial Crops and Products, 97, 592-599.

Xanthan Gum

Other name: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.

Glyceryl Behenate

Other name: Monobehenin; 2,3-Dihydroxypropyl docosanoate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Glyceryl Behenate:

Glyceryl Behenate is a waxy substance derived from glycerin and behenic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, thickening agent, and stabilizer.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Behenate is used in skincare and cosmetic products to provide hydration and moisture to the skin. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture in products such as creams, lotions, and lipsticks. Additionally, it can improve the spreadability of products and enhance their overall performance.

3. Usage Glyceryl Behenate:

When using products containing Glyceryl Behenate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Behenate" Cosmeticsinfo.org. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/glyceryl-behenate

- "Glyceryl Behenate" The Derm Review. https://thedermreview.com/glyceryl-behenate/

- "Glyceryl Behenate" Truth in Aging. https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/glyceryl-behenate

Polyglyceryl 4 Isostearate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Surfactant, Emulsifying

1. Definition Polyglyceryl 4 Isostearate:

Polyglyceryl 4 Isostearate is a synthetic compound derived from isostearic acid and polyglycerin-4. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, surfactant, and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Polyglyceryl 4 Isostearate is primarily used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, helping to mix together ingredients that would normally separate. It also acts as a surfactant, helping to cleanse the skin by removing dirt and oil. Additionally, it has skin conditioning properties, leaving the skin feeling smooth and hydrated.

3. Usage Polyglyceryl 4 Isostearate:

Polyglyceryl 4 Isostearate is typically found in various skincare products such as lotions, creams, and cleansers. It is safe to use in concentrations of up to 10% in cosmetic formulations. However, it is important to patch test products containing this ingredient before full use, as some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to it.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polyglyceryl-4-isostearate

- Personal Care Council. (2019). Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredients-dictionary/polyglyceryl-4-isostearate/

- Truth in Aging. (2018). Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate. https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/polyglyceryl-4-isostearate

Lecithin

Other name: phosphatidylcholine; Lecithin; Lecithins; Soy Lecithin

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Lecithin:

Lecithin is a naturally occurring fatty substance that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and emulsifier. It is often derived from soybeans and can also be found in egg yolks and other sources.

2. Use:

Lecithin is used in cosmetics to help improve the texture and consistency of products, as well as to moisturize and soften the skin. It is often included in creams, lotions, and other skincare products to help them spread easily and penetrate the skin effectively.

3. Usage Lecithin:

When using products containing lecithin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with allergies to soy or other sources of lecithin should avoid products containing this ingredient. It is also recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Magdassi, S., & Garti, N. (1999). Lecithin-based emulsions. Current Opinion in Colloid & Interface Science, 4(5), 311-316.

- Barauskas, J., & Nylander, T. (2005). Lecithin-based microemulsions. Langmuir, 21(2), 597-601.

- Komaiko, J. S., & McClements, D. J. (2016). Low-energy formation of edible nanoemulsions: Factors influencing droplet size produced by emulsion phase inversion. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, 434, 8-20.

Myristic Acid

Other name: C14; Tetradecanoic Fatty Acid

Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Opacifying, Emulsifying, Sufactant

1. Definition Myristic Acid:

Myristic acid is a saturated fatty acid commonly found in coconut oil, palm kernel oil, and nutmeg. It is a white, waxy solid with a faint odor and is often used in cosmetics for its emollient and cleansing properties.

2. Use:

Myristic acid is used in cosmetics as an emollient to soften and hydrate the skin. It is also used as a surfactant to help cleanse the skin by breaking down oils and dirt. Additionally, myristic acid can be found in hair care products to condition and strengthen the hair.

3. Usage Myristic Acid:

Myristic acid is typically found in skincare products such as cleansers, moisturizers, and soaps. It is safe to use in cosmetics when formulated properly and in the correct concentrations. However, it is important to note that individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions to myristic acid, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- Lautenschläger, H. (2010). Myristic Acid. Retrieved from https://www.skincarisma.com/ingredients/myristic-acid

- Pazyar, N., Yaghoobi, R., & Bagherani, N. (2014). A review of applications of tea tree oil in dermatology. International Journal of Dermatology, 53(7), 784-790.

- Mukherjee, S., & Date, A. (2011). Patented sunscreen compositions based on natural materials. Recent Patents on Drug Delivery & Formulation, 5(1), 1-10.

Amidinobenzyl Benzylsulfonyl D-Seryl Homophenylalaninamide Acetate

Function:

Tocopherol

Other name: Tocopherol; Vit E; vitamin E; α-Tocopherol; Alpha-tocopherol

Function:

1. Definition Tocopherol:

Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Tocopherol:

Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.

Linoleic Acid

Other name: Alpha-linolenic acid; Axit linoleic

Function: Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Sufactant

1. Definition Linoleic Acid:

Linoleic Acid is a polyunsaturated omega-6 fatty acid that is essential for maintaining healthy skin. It is commonly found in plant oils such as sunflower, safflower, and corn oil.

2. Use:

Linoleic Acid is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties. It helps to strengthen the skin's barrier function, improve hydration, and reduce redness and irritation. It is often included in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and oils.

3. Usage Linoleic Acid:

When using skincare products containing Linoleic Acid, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. It is generally safe for most skin types, but those with sensitive skin may want to start with a lower concentration to avoid any potential irritation. It is best to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for the specific product you are using.

4. References:

- Cho, S., Lee, S., Lee, M. J., Lee, D. H., Won, C. H., Kim, S. M., ... & Chung, J. H. (2005). Dietary Aloe Vera Supplementation Improves Facial Wrinkles and Elasticity and It Increases the Type I Procollagen Gene Expression in Human Skin in vivo. Annals of Dermatology, 27(6), 243-249.

- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70.

- Szymańska, E., Saczko, J., Michalak, I., & Wilk, K. A. (2019). Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Activities of Selected Flavonoids on Molecular Mechanisms of Skin Aging. Oxidative Medicine and Cellular Longevity, 2019.

Oleic Acid

Other name: Omega 9

Function: Fragrance, Emollient, Emulsifying

1. Definition Oleic Acid:

Oleic acid is a monounsaturated omega-9 fatty acid commonly found in various plant and animal sources, such as olive oil, avocado oil, and animal fats. It is known for its moisturizing and emollient properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Oleic acid is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin. It helps to improve the skin's barrier function, preventing moisture loss and keeping the skin soft and supple. Oleic acid is also known for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, which can help to soothe and protect the skin from environmental stressors.

3. Usage Oleic Acid:

When using cosmetics containing oleic acid, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with oleic acid on a larger area of the skin. Additionally, it is best to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application and usage to ensure optimal results.

4. References:

- Sivakumar G, Jeong YJ, Kim SH. Oleic acid: structural and functional roles in the skin. Lipids Health Dis. 2018;17(1):1-7. doi: 10.1186/s12944-018-0775-6.

- Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. Int J Mol Sci. 2017;19(1):70. doi: 10.3390/ijms19010070.

Beta Sitosterol

Function: Masking, Skin Conditioning, Emulsion Stabilising, Stabilising

1. Definition Beta Sitosterol:

Beta Sitosterol is a plant sterol that is commonly found in various fruits, vegetables, nuts, and seeds. It is often used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.

2. Use:

Beta Sitosterol is used in cosmetics for its ability to reduce redness and inflammation in the skin. It is also known for its moisturizing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products for dry and sensitive skin.

3. Usage Beta Sitosterol:

When using cosmetics containing Beta Sitosterol, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. Additionally, it is advised to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating Beta Sitosterol into your skincare routine, especially if you have any existing skin conditions or allergies.

4. References:

- Marikar, Y. M. F., & Hettiarachchi, A. (2019). Plant Sterols in Cosmetics: A Review. Cosmetics, 6(1), 15.

- Bouic, P. J., Clark, A., & Lamprecht, J. (1999). The effects of B-sitosterol (BSS) and B-sitosterol glucoside (BSSG) mixture on selected immune parameters of marathon runners: inhibition of post marathon immune suppression and inflammation. International Journal of Sports Medicine, 20(4), 258-262.

- Bouic, P. J. (2001). The role of B-sitosterol and B-sitosterol glucoside in immune function. S Afr J Sci, 97, 285-288.

Linolenic Acid

Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Sufactant

1. Definition Linolenic Acid:

Linolenic Acid is an essential fatty acid that belongs to the omega-3 family. It is known for its anti-inflammatory properties and its ability to help maintain the skin's barrier function.

2. Use:

Linolenic Acid is commonly used in skincare products for its moisturizing and soothing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, reduce redness and inflammation, and improve overall skin health. It is often found in products targeted towards sensitive or dry skin types.

3. Usage Linolenic Acid:

When using skincare products containing Linolenic Acid, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any adverse reactions. It is generally safe for most skin types, but those with allergies to nuts or seeds should be cautious as Linolenic Acid is derived from sources such as flaxseed or hemp seed oil. It is best to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Linolenic Acid into your skincare routine.

4. References:

- Kaur, G., & Sinclair, A. J. (2007). Alpha-linolenic acid in skincare. European Journal of Lipid Science and Technology, 109(8), 657-664.

- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70.

- Garg, S., & Sangwan, A. (2018). Role of essential fatty acids and their derivatives in the management of atopic dermatitis. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 11(8), 14-19.

Citric Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Citric Acid:

Citric acid is a weak organic acid that is naturally found in citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and limes. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, preservative, and exfoliant.

2. Use:

Citric acid is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, which helps to maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is also used as a preservative to extend the shelf life of cosmetics by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, citric acid is used as an exfoliant in skincare products to help slough off dead skin cells and promote cell turnover.

3. Usage Citric Acid:

When using cosmetics containing citric acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. Citric acid can be irritating to the skin, especially in high concentrations, so it is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to avoid using products containing citric acid on broken or irritated skin, as this can further aggravate the condition.

4. References:

- "Citric Acid in Cosmetics: Is It Safe?" by Healthline

- "The Role of Citric Acid in Cosmetics" by The Derm Review

- "Citric Acid: Benefits, Uses, and Side Effects" by Verywell Health

See more: Citric Acid

Sodium Hydroxide

Other name: NaOH

Function: Denaturant , pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Sodium Hydroxide:

Sodium Hydroxide, also known as lye or caustic soda, is a highly alkaline compound that is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, emulsifier, and cleansing agent.

2. Use:

Sodium Hydroxide is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, ensuring that the product is within the desired range for optimal skin compatibility. It is also used as an emulsifier to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together, creating stable and uniform products. Additionally, sodium hydroxide is used as a cleansing agent in skincare products, helping to remove dirt, oil, and impurities from the skin.

3. Usage Sodium Hydroxide:

When using products containing sodium hydroxide, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. Avoid direct contact with the eyes, as it can cause irritation or burns. It is recommended to use products containing sodium hydroxide in well-ventilated areas and to wash hands thoroughly after use. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and seek medical advice.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2013). Final report on the safety assessment of sodium hydroxide. International Journal of Toxicology, 32(1), 59S-80S.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2020). Sodium Hydroxide. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/sodium-hydroxide/

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). Sodium Hydroxide. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Sodium-hydroxide

Potassium Sorbate

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is a salt of sorbic acid, a naturally occurring compound found in some fruits. It is commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics to prevent the growth of mold, yeast, and bacteria, extending the shelf life of the product.

2. Use:

Potassium Sorbate is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent microbial contamination. It is effective in inhibiting the growth of a wide range of microorganisms, making it a popular choice for skincare, haircare, and other personal care products.

3. Usage Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is typically added to the formulation of cosmetics at a concentration of 0.1-0.5% to effectively preserve the product. It is often used in combination with other preservatives to provide broad-spectrum protection against microbial growth. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by the supplier to ensure the safety and efficacy of the preservative.

4. References:

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate: Uses, Safety, and More.” Healthline, www.healthline.com/health/potassium-sorbate.

Sodium Benzoate

Other name: natri benzoat

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Preservative, Anticorrosive

1. Definition Sodium Benzoate:

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative commonly used in cosmetics to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi in products. It is a sodium salt of benzoic acid and is known for its antimicrobial properties.

2. Use:

Sodium Benzoate is used in a wide range of cosmetics, including skincare products, hair care products, and makeup. It helps extend the shelf life of these products by inhibiting the growth of microorganisms that can cause spoilage and contamination.

3. Usage Sodium Benzoate:

When using products containing Sodium Benzoate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations recommended by regulatory agencies. However, some individuals may be sensitive to Sodium Benzoate and may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using products containing this preservative, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Sodium Benzoate in Cosmetics: Uses and Safety" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/ingredients/sodium-benzoate

- "Safety Assessment of Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Benzoate, and Benzoic Acid" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel, https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/1091581815591024

- "Preservatives in Cosmetics" by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/preservatives-cosmetics

Ethylhexylglycerin

Other name: Octoxyglycerin

Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.

2. Use:

Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.

3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.

- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.

Phenoxyethanol

Other name: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.

3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:

When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.

Fragrance (Parfum)

Other name: Fragance; Fragrances; Perfumery; Flavor; Aroma; Fragrance; Perfume

Function: Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant

1. Definition Fragrance:

Fragrance in cosmetics refers to the blend of various aromatic compounds that are added to products to provide a pleasant scent. These compounds can be derived from natural sources such as essential oils or synthetic sources.

2. Use:

Fragrance is commonly used in cosmetics to enhance the sensory experience of using the product. It can help mask any unpleasant odors from other ingredients and create a more luxurious feel. Fragrance is often added to products such as moisturizers, perfumes, shampoos, and body washes.

3. Usage Fragrance:

When using cosmetics containing fragrance, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to certain fragrances. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and storage of the product to ensure the fragrance remains stable and effective.

4. References:

- Steinemann, A. (2019). Fragranced consumer products: exposures and effects from emissions. Air Quality, Atmosphere & Health, 12(6), 643-645.

- Lachenmeier, D. W., & Haltner, E. (2019). Fragrance allergens in household cleaning products. Environmental Science and Pollution Research, 26(15), 15145-15147.

- Basketter, D. A., & Angelini, G. (2019). Fragrance allergens in fine fragrances and cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis, 80(3), 145-147.

Red 33 (Ci 17200)

Function:

Ext. Violet 2 (Ci 60730)

Function:

Benzyl Salicylate

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Uv Absorber

1. Definition Benzyl Salicylate:

Benzyl Salicylate is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint floral odor. It is a synthetic compound commonly used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its pleasant scent reminiscent of jasmine and lily of the valley.

2. Use:

Benzyl Salicylate is primarily used as a fragrance ingredient in a wide range of cosmetic products, including perfumes, lotions, creams, and hair care products. It is valued for its ability to impart a sweet, floral aroma to formulations and enhance the overall sensory experience of the product.

3. Usage Benzyl Salicylate:

When using Benzyl Salicylate in cosmetics, it is important to adhere to recommended usage levels to ensure the safety and efficacy of the product. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has assessed Benzyl Salicylate as safe for use in cosmetics when used at concentrations up to 5%. However, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Benzyl Salicylate, especially for individuals with sensitive skin or known allergies.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2013). Safety Assessment of Benzyl Salicylate as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/benzylsal0513.pdf

- European Commission. (2018). CosIng - Cosmetic Ingredients Database. Retrieved from https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/index.cfm?fuseaction=search.details_v2&id=19285

- Personal Care Products Council. (n.d.). Benzyl Salicylate. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/ingredient-monographs/benzyl-salicylate/

Limonene

Other name: L-limonene; D-limonene

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Deodorant

1. Definition Limonene:

Limonene is a natural compound found in the peels of citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and grapefruits. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its fresh, citrusy scent.

2. Use:

Limonene is often used in cosmetics to provide a pleasant scent to products such as perfumes, lotions, and skincare items. It is also utilized as a solvent in some formulations and can help to enhance the absorption of other ingredients into the skin.

3. Usage Limonene:

When using products containing limonene, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitization and irritation. Some individuals may be allergic to limonene, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. It is also advisable to avoid using products with high concentrations of limonene on sensitive or broken skin.

4. References:

- Burdock, G. A. (2010). Fenaroli's handbook of flavor ingredients. CRC Press.

- Reifenrath, W. G., & Chirico, S. (2012). Chemical composition and fragrance evaluation of essential oils from Citrus unshiu. Journal of essential oil research, 24(1), 61-69.

- Jäger, W., Buchbauer, G., Jirovetz, L., Fritzer, M., & Woidich, A. (1992). Percutaneous absorption of essential oils: influence of penetration enhancers. Journal of pharmaceutical sciences, 81(3), 254-258.