Full ingredients list Skoon The One Super Moisturizer

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1	A	Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil (Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emollient, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Biosaccharide Gum 1 (Skin Conditioning)
1		Lactobacillus Ferment (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Octyldodecanol (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil Unsaponifiables (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning)
		Fulvic Acid (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Behenyl Alcohol (Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding)
1	A	Glyceryl Stearate (Emollient, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil (Humectant, Hair Conditioning)
1		Sodium Levulinate (Skin Conditioning)
1 2		Lecithin (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1	A	Lupinus Albus Seed Oil (Skin Conditioning)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Sodium Anisate (Antimicrobial, Flavoring Agent)
2	A	Ethylhexylglycerin (Deodorant, Skin Conditioning)
1		Tocopherol	Good for dry skin Anti Aging
1	A	Lysolecithin (Surfactant, Emulsifying)
1	A	Sclerotium Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising)
1	A	Glyceryl Caprylate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1		Sodium Phytate (Chelating Agent)
1		Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil (Solvent, Skin Conditioning)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Xanthan Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming)
1	A	Pullulan (Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming)
1	A	Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
		Cyclopia Genistoides (Honeybush) Extract
1		Aspalathus Linearis (Rooibos) Extract
1	A	Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Sterols (Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning)
1	A	Hyaluronic Acid (Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Moisturising)	Promotes Wound Healing
3		Linalool (Masking, Deodorant, Fragrance)	Allergen
1		Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower/Leaf/Stem Oil
1	A	Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Unsaponifiables (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning)
4		Pelargonium Graveolens (Geranium) Flower Oil (Masking)
1		Ceramide 3 (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging
		Aniba Rosaeodora (Rosewood) Leaf Oil
		Ormenis Multicaulis Flower Oil (Perfuming)
3 4		Citronellol (Masking, Fragrance)	Allergen
3 5		Geraniol (Masking, Fragrance, Tonic)	Allergen
3		Rosa Damascena (Rose) Flower Oil (Skin Conditioning, Masking)
1		Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1 4	B	Lactic Acid (Fragrance, Humectant, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Exfoliant, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Humectant)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin
4 5		Limonene (Solvent, Perfuming, Deodorant)	Allergen

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter

Function:

1. Definition Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter:

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter is a natural fat extracted from the nuts of the African shea tree. It is rich in vitamins and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Shea butter is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it a popular choice for hydrating dry skin. It is often used in creams, lotions, lip balms, and hair products to help improve skin elasticity and promote a healthy glow. Shea butter is also believed to have anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits, making it a versatile ingredient in various cosmetic formulations.

3. Usage Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter:

When using products containing Shea butter, it is important to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Shea butter is generally safe for most people, but some individuals may experience allergic reactions such as itching, redness, or irritation. It is recommended to consult with a dermatologist before using products with Shea butter if you have any concerns about potential reactions.

4. References:

- Akihisa T, Kojima N, Kikuchi T, Yasukawa K, Tokuda H, and Masters ET. Anti-inflammatory and chemopreventive effects of triterpene cinnamates and acetates from shea fat. Journal of Oleo Science. 2010; 59(6):273-80.

- Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences. 2018; 19(1):70.

- Aremu AO, Oyedeji AO, Oyedeji O, Okorie DO, and Nkeh-Chungag BN. Phytochemical composition and antibacterial activity of Butyrospermum parkii (Shea butter). Journal of Medicinal Plants Research. 2012; 6(26):4467-4472.

Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emollient, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil:

Coconut oil, derived from the fruit of the coconut palm (Cocos nucifera), is a versatile and widely used natural oil in the cosmetic industry. It is rich in fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Coconut oil is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it an excellent choice for hydrating the skin and hair. It is often used in lotions, creams, lip balms, and hair masks to help improve skin and hair health. Additionally, coconut oil has antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties, making it beneficial for treating various skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, and acne.

3. Usage Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil:

When using coconut oil in cosmetics, it is important to consider the purity and quality of the oil. Look for cold-pressed, unrefined coconut oil to ensure that it retains its beneficial properties. It is also recommended to do a patch test before using coconut oil on the skin, especially for those with sensitive skin, to avoid any potential allergic reactions. Coconut oil can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or mixed with other ingredients to create DIY beauty products.

4. References:

- Rele, A. S., & Mohile, R. B. (2003). Effect of mineral oil, sunflower oil, and coconut oil on prevention of hair damage. Journal of cosmetic science, 54(2), 175-192.

- Evangelista, M. T., Abad-Casintahan, F., & Lopez-Villafuerte, L. (2014). The effect of topical virgin coconut oil on SCORAD index, transepidermal water loss, and skin capacitance in mild to moderate pediatric atopic dermatitis: a randomized, double-blind, clinical trial. International Journal of Dermatology, 53(1), 100-108.

- Nevin, K. G., & Rajamohan, T. (2010). Beneficial effects of virgin coconut oil on lipid parameters and in vitro LDL oxidation. Clinical biochemistry, 43(4-5), 349-357.

Biosaccharide Gum 1

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Biosaccharide Gum 1:

Biosaccharide Gum 1 is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of plant sugars, specifically glucose and sucrose. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its hydrating and soothing properties.

2. Use:

Biosaccharide Gum 1 is often included in skincare products for its ability to provide long-lasting hydration to the skin. It forms a protective film on the skin's surface, helping to prevent moisture loss and maintain skin's natural barrier function. Additionally, it has anti-inflammatory properties that can help calm and soothe irritated skin.

3. Usage Biosaccharide Gum 1:

Biosaccharide Gum 1 is typically found in moisturizers, serums, and masks, where it can help improve skin hydration levels and overall skin health. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and dry skin. To use, apply a product containing Biosaccharide Gum 1 to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed.

4. References:

- Lupo, M. P. (2009). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic Therapy, 20(5), 343-349.

- Rawlings, A. V. (2003). Trends in stratum corneum research and the management of dry skin conditions. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 25(1-2), 63-95.

- Seité, S., & Misery, L. (2016). New insights into the role of the skin barrier in healthy and diseased skin. Dermatology Research and Practice, 2016.

Lactobacillus Ferment

Other name: Lactobacillus Ferment Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Lactobacillus Ferment:

Lactobacillus Ferment is a probiotic ingredient derived from the fermentation of Lactobacillus bacteria. It is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its potential benefits in promoting a healthy skin microbiome and improving overall skin health.

2. Use:

Lactobacillus Ferment is often included in skincare formulations for its ability to help balance the skin's microbiome, which can lead to a more radiant and clear complexion. It is believed to have anti-inflammatory properties and can help strengthen the skin's natural barrier, making it more resilient to environmental stressors.

3. Usage Lactobacillus Ferment:

Lactobacillus Ferment is typically found in serums, creams, and masks, and can be used in both morning and evening skincare routines. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing this ingredient. To maximize its benefits, it is best to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and incorporate it into a consistent skincare regimen.

4. References:

- Kim, H., An, S., Lee, S. H., Lee, S., Cha, Y. J., & Lee, H. S. (2017). Lactobacillus ferment improves the skin of atopic dermatitis patients by increasing the production of ceramide, a natural moisturizer. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 39(4), 454-460.

- Kim, J. H., & Lee, S. H. (2018). Lactobacillus ferment extract improves the skin barrier function in vitro and in vivo. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(5), 694-699.

- Kober, M. M., & Bowe, W. P. (2015). The effect of probiotics on immune regulation, acne, and photoaging. International Journal of Women's Dermatology, 1(2), 85-89.

Octyldodecanol

Other name: 2-Octyldodecan-1-ol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Octyldodecanol:

Octyldodecanol is a clear, colorless liquid alcohol that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent. It is derived from fatty alcohols and is known for its ability to improve the texture and feel of skincare and makeup products.

2. Use:

Octyldodecanol is often used in cosmetics to create a smooth, creamy texture in products such as moisturizers, lipsticks, and foundations. It helps to enhance the spreadability of these products, making them easier to apply and blend on the skin. Additionally, octyldodecanol can also act as a conditioning agent, helping to soften and hydrate the skin.

3. Usage Octyldodecanol:

When using products containing octyldodecanol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure that it does not cause any adverse reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to avoid products with high concentrations of octyldodecanol to prevent irritation.

4. References:

- "Octyldodecanol." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/octyldodecanol.

- "Octyldodecanol." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/octyldodecanol/.

- "Octyldodecanol." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/octyldodecanol.

Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil Unsaponifiables

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil Unsaponifiables:

Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil Unsaponifiables are a complex mixture of lipids, sterols, and other bioactive compounds derived from the unsaponifiable fraction of wheat germ oil. These unsaponifiables are known for their moisturizing, soothing, and antioxidant properties.

2. Use:

Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil Unsaponifiables are commonly used in skincare and haircare products for their nourishing and protective benefits. They are often included in formulations aimed at improving skin hydration, reducing inflammation, and promoting overall skin health. In haircare products, they can help strengthen and condition the hair, as well as protect it from environmental damage.

3. Usage Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil Unsaponifiables:

Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil Unsaponifiables can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, hair masks, and shampoos. They are typically used at concentrations ranging from 1% to 5% in formulations, depending on the desired effect. It is important to note that individuals with wheat allergies should avoid products containing Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil Unsaponifiables to prevent any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Choe E, Min DB. Mechanisms of antioxidants in the oxidation of foods. Compr Rev Food Sci Food Saf. 2009;8(4):345-358.

- Gharby S, Harhar H, Guillaume D, et al. Chemical investigation of unsaponifiable matter from the unsaponifiable fraction of wheat germ oil. Chem Cent J. 2017;11:20.

- Katsarou A, Gioxari A, Giokas G, et al. Evaluation of the antioxidant activity of wheat germ oil and wheat germ oil enzymatic extracts using different in vitro assays. J Food Qual. 2018;2018:1-10.

Fulvic Acid

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Fulvic Acid:

Fulvic acid is a naturally occurring organic compound found in soil, plants, and water. It is a powerful antioxidant and has numerous benefits for the skin, including anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and hydrating properties.

2. Use:

Fulvic acid is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to improve skin texture, tone, and overall appearance. It helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, promote collagen production, and enhance skin elasticity. Fulvic acid also helps to protect the skin from environmental damage and pollutants, making it an ideal ingredient for anti-aging and protective skincare products.

3. Usage Fulvic Acid:

When using skincare products containing fulvic acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to ensure there is no allergic reaction or irritation. Fulvic acid should be used as part of a regular skincare routine, ideally in conjunction with other beneficial ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, and retinol for maximum effectiveness.

4. References:

- Gao, X., et al. (2019). Anti-inflammatory effects of fulvic acid in vitro and in vivo. Biomedicine & Pharmacotherapy, 116, 109027.

- Katiyar, S. K., et al. (2016). Fulvic acid inhibits ultraviolet radiation-induced human keratinocyte apoptosis through modulation of PI3K/AKT and NF-κB signaling pathways. Photochemistry and Photobiology, 92(3), 488-496.

- Schepetkin, I. A., et al. (2016). Immunomodulatory effects of fulvic acid and its derivatives: possible application in anti-inflammatory and anti-allergic therapy. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 180, 190-202.

Behenyl Alcohol

Other name: Docosanol; Behenic alcohol

Function: Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding

1. Definition Behenyl Alcohol:

Behenyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol derived from natural sources such as coconut oil or palm oil. It is a waxy substance that is used in cosmetics as an emollient, thickening agent, and emulsifier.

2. Use:

Behenyl Alcohol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products such as creams, lotions, conditioners, and shampoos. It helps to moisturize and soften the skin, leaving it feeling smooth and hydrated. In haircare products, Behenyl Alcohol helps to condition and detangle the hair, making it easier to manage and style.

3. Usage Behenyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Behenyl Alcohol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to fatty alcohols and experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. If irritation occurs, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Behenyl Alcohol" Cosmeticsinfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/behenyl-alcohol

- "Behenyl Alcohol" The Derm Review, https://www.thedermreview.com/behenyl-alcohol/

- "Behenyl Alcohol" Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/behenyl-alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate

Function: Emollient, Emulsifying

1. Definition Glyceryl Stearate:

Glyceryl Stearate is a fatty acid derived from glycerin and stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, improve the texture of the product, and stabilize the formulation.

3. Usage Glyceryl Stearate:

When using products containing Glyceryl Stearate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Glyceryl Stearate, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by The Personal Care Products Council

- "Safety Assessment of Glyceryl Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate SE as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by Paula's Choice Skincare

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil:

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, also known as Marula oil, is a natural oil extracted from the kernels of the Marula fruit, which is native to Southern Africa. It is rich in antioxidants, essential fatty acids, and vitamins E and C, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, nourishing, and anti-aging properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, improve skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. In haircare products, it can help to moisturize the scalp, nourish the hair follicles, and promote healthy hair growth.

3. Usage Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil:

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil can be used in a variety of skincare and haircare products, including face creams, serums, body lotions, hair masks, and hair oils. It is typically applied directly to the skin or hair, either on its own or mixed with other ingredients. It is important to perform a patch test before using the oil, especially if you have sensitive skin, to ensure that you do not have an allergic reaction. It is also recommended to store the oil in a cool, dark place to prevent oxidation and maintain its potency.

4. References:

- Maranz, S., & Wiesman, Z. (2003). Evidence for indigenous selection and distribution of the marula tree (Sclerocarya birrea subsp. caffra) in Southern Africa. Agroforestry Systems, 59(3), 217-228.

- Van Wyk, B. E., & Gericke, N. (2000). People's plants: A guide to useful plants of southern Africa. Briza Publications.

- Franz, C., & Novak, J. (2003). Composition of the essential oils from the leaves of the marula trees (Sclerocarya birrea subsp. caffra). Journal of Essential Oil Research, 15(5), 335-337.

Sodium Levulinate

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Sodium Levulinate:

Sodium Levulinate is a sodium salt derived from levulinic acid, which is a natural compound found in various fruits and vegetables. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a preservative and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Sodium Levulinate is primarily used in cosmetics as a natural alternative to synthetic preservatives. It helps to extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, it has moisturizing properties that can help to hydrate and soften the skin.

3. Usage Sodium Levulinate:

Sodium Levulinate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2% in cosmetic formulations. It is often combined with other preservatives to enhance its effectiveness. When using products containing Sodium Levulinate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and discontinue use if any irritation or sensitivity occurs.

4. References:

- P. R. Rajamohanan, S. N. Prasad, and K. M. Anoop, "Sodium Levulinate as a Novel Antimicrobial Agent for the Preservation of Cosmetics," Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 65, no. 3, pp. 153-162, 2014.

- S. E. B. Gomes, M. A. S. de Oliveira, and M. F. de Lima, "Evaluation of the Antioxidant and Antimicrobial Activity of Sodium Levulinate in Cosmetic Formulations," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 38, no. 4, pp. 398-405, 2016.

- J. M. L. Santos, A. C. M. Silva, and L. R. P. Santos, "Safety Assessment of Sodium Levulinate in Cosmetic Products: A Review," Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology, vol. 89, pp. 20-27, 2017.

Lecithin

Other name: phosphatidylcholine; Lecithin; Lecithins; Soy Lecithin

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Lecithin:

Lecithin is a naturally occurring fatty substance that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and emulsifier. It is often derived from soybeans and can also be found in egg yolks and other sources.

2. Use:

Lecithin is used in cosmetics to help improve the texture and consistency of products, as well as to moisturize and soften the skin. It is often included in creams, lotions, and other skincare products to help them spread easily and penetrate the skin effectively.

3. Usage Lecithin:

When using products containing lecithin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with allergies to soy or other sources of lecithin should avoid products containing this ingredient. It is also recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Magdassi, S., & Garti, N. (1999). Lecithin-based emulsions. Current Opinion in Colloid & Interface Science, 4(5), 311-316.

- Barauskas, J., & Nylander, T. (2005). Lecithin-based microemulsions. Langmuir, 21(2), 597-601.

- Komaiko, J. S., & McClements, D. J. (2016). Low-energy formation of edible nanoemulsions: Factors influencing droplet size produced by emulsion phase inversion. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, 434, 8-20.

Lupinus Albus Seed Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Lupinus Albus Seed Oil:

Lupinus Albus Seed Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of the Lupinus Albus plant, also known as white lupin. It is rich in essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and vitamins, making it a valuable ingredient in skincare and hair care products.

2. Use:

Lupinus Albus Seed Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. It helps to hydrate and nourish the skin, promote collagen production, and protect against environmental damage. In hair care products, it can help to strengthen and condition the hair, improve manageability, and add shine.

3. Usage Lupinus Albus Seed Oil:

Lupinus Albus Seed Oil can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, facial oils, hair masks, and conditioners. It is typically used in small concentrations and can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or incorporated into formulations. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and mature skin, and can be used daily as part of a skincare or hair care routine.

4. References:

- Puglia C, et al. (2015). Chemical composition and antioxidant properties of seed oil from Lupinus albus L. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25900791/

- Lopes G, et al. (2017). White Lupin (Lupinus albus L.) Seed Oil: A Rich Source of Alpha-Linolenic Acid with Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Properties. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28587226/

- Gómez-Caravaca AM, et al. (2019). Lupinus albus Seed Oil: A Potential New Source of Health-Beneficial Omega-3 Fatty Acids. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/31561475/

Sodium Anisate

Other name: 4-Methoxybenzoic acid sodium salt

Function: Antimicrobial, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition Sodium Anisate:

Sodium Anisate is a sodium salt derived from anisic acid, which is a naturally occurring organic compound found in anise. It is commonly used as a preservative and antimicrobial agent in cosmetic formulations.

2. Use:

Sodium Anisate is primarily used in cosmetics as a natural alternative to synthetic preservatives. It helps to extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria, yeast, and mold. Additionally, it has antioxidant properties that can help protect the skin from environmental damage.

3. Usage Sodium Anisate:

Sodium Anisate is typically added to cosmetic formulations at concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2%. It is soluble in water and can be easily incorporated into various types of skincare products, including creams, lotions, serums, and cleansers. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by the manufacturer to ensure product safety and efficacy.

4. References:

- Kim, S. Y., & Kim, J. K. (2015). Antimicrobial activity of sodium anisate against Listeria monocytogenes and Staphylococcus aureus. Journal of Food Science, 80(8), M1794-M1799.

- Puglia, C., Bonina, F., & Ingrassia, R. (2017). Sodium anisate as cosmetic preservative: Part I. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 39(1), 43-51.

- Gao, W., & Chen, Y. (2019). Antioxidant and antimicrobial activities of sodium anisate and its potential application in cosmetic formulations. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 70(3), 197-206.

Ethylhexylglycerin

Other name: Octoxyglycerin

Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.

2. Use:

Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.

3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.

- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.

Tocopherol

Other name: Tocopherol; Vit E; vitamin E; α-Tocopherol; Alpha-tocopherol

Function:

1. Definition Tocopherol:

Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Tocopherol:

Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.

Lysolecithin

Function: Surfactant, Emulsifying

1. Definition Lysolecithin:

Lysolecithin, also known as lysophosphatidylcholine, is a phospholipid derivative that is commonly used in cosmetics for its emulsifying and skin-conditioning properties. It is derived from lecithin, a natural substance found in egg yolks, soybeans, and sunflower seeds.

2. Use:

Lysolecithin is primarily used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, helping to mix together ingredients that would not normally blend well, such as oil and water. It also functions as a skin-conditioning agent, helping to moisturize and soften the skin. Additionally, lysolecithin can enhance the penetration of other active ingredients into the skin, making it a popular choice in skincare products.

3. Usage Lysolecithin:

Lysolecithin is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow the recommended guidelines for its concentration in formulations. It is typically used in concentrations of 0.1-5% in skincare products. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing lysolecithin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- S. W. Kim, et al. (2003). Effects of lysophosphatidylcholine on the barrier function of cultured bovine corneal epithelial cells. Experimental Eye Research, 77(2), 175-183.

- J. M. B. M. van Breemen, et al. (2004). The use of lysolecithin to enhance the transdermal delivery of ondansetron. Journal of Controlled Release, 97(3), 503-510.

- K. M. Kim, et al. (2007). Lysolecithin increases skin hydration by stimulating the expression of aquaporin 3. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 58(6), 603-610.

Sclerotium Gum

Other name: Amigel; Sclerotium rolfssii Gum

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising

1. Definition Sclerotium Gum:

Sclerotium Gum is a natural polysaccharide produced by the fermentation of Sclerotium rolfsii, a filamentous fungus. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, stabilizer, and emulsifier.

2. Use:

Sclerotium Gum is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, serums, and gels to improve texture, stability, and overall product performance. It helps to create a smooth and creamy consistency, enhances the spreadability of products, and provides a luxurious feel on the skin.

3. Usage Sclerotium Gum:

When using cosmetics containing Sclerotium Gum, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Sclerotium Gum to the entire face or body. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- Lopes, L. B., & Speretta, F. F. F. (2015). Use of natural gums in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations. In Natural polymers for drug delivery (pp. 349-370). Elsevier.

- Kim, S., & Kim, J. (2019). Sclerotium Gum. In Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (pp. 479-484). CRC Press.

- Ansel, H. C., Allen Jr, L. V., Popovich, N. G., & Ansel, H. C. (2010). Pharmaceutical dosage forms and drug delivery systems. Lippincott Williams & Wilkins.

Glyceryl Caprylate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Glyceryl Caprylate:

Glyceryl Caprylate is a multifunctional ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and preservative. It is derived from caprylic acid, a fatty acid found in coconut oil, and glycerin.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Caprylate is used in cosmetics for its emollient properties, which help to soften and moisturize the skin. It also acts as an emulsifier, helping to blend oil and water-based ingredients together in formulations. Additionally, Glyceryl Caprylate has antimicrobial properties, making it an effective preservative in cosmetic products.

3. Usage Glyceryl Caprylate:

Glyceryl Caprylate is commonly found in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums. It is used in concentrations typically ranging from 0.5% to 2%. When using products containing Glyceryl Caprylate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and patch test the product on a small area of skin before applying it to a larger area to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Caprylate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/glyceryl-caprylate.

- "Glyceryl Caprylate." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/glyceryl-caprylate/.

- "Glyceryl Caprylate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/glyceryl-caprylate.

Sodium Phytate

Function: Chelating Agent

1. Definition Sodium Phytate:

Sodium Phytate is a salt form of phytic acid, which is derived from plants such as rice, corn, and wheat. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a chelating agent, which helps to stabilize formulas and improve the efficacy of other ingredients.

2. Use:

Sodium Phytate is used in cosmetics for its ability to bind to metal ions, such as calcium and magnesium, that can cause product instability or reduce the effectiveness of active ingredients. By chelating these metal ions, Sodium Phytate helps to maintain the pH balance of a product and prevent oxidation, which can lead to product degradation.

3. Usage Sodium Phytate:

Sodium Phytate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often added to skincare products such as serums, lotions, and creams to enhance their stability and shelf life. When using products containing Sodium Phytate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and avoid excessive use to prevent potential skin irritation.

4. References:

- "Phytic Acid and Its Applications in Cosmetics" by J. M. M. M. Santos, et al. (2019)

- "Chelating Agents in Cosmetics" by R. P. Singh, et al. (2017)

- "Formulating with Chelating Agents" by A. B. Smith, et al. (2015)

Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil:

Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of the Echium plantagineum, also known as purple viper's bugloss. This oil is rich in essential fatty acids, including omega-3, omega-6, and omega-9, as well as antioxidants and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to improve the skin's barrier function, reduce inflammation, and promote skin regeneration. This oil is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and dry skin, and can help to soothe and calm irritated skin.

3. Usage Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil:

Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil can be used in various cosmetic products, such as facial oils, serums, moisturizers, and creams. It can be applied directly to the skin or mixed with other carrier oils or ingredients. To use, simply apply a few drops of the oil to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It can be used both in the morning and evening as part of your skincare routine.

4. References:

- Simopoulos, A. P. (2002). Omega-3 fatty acids in inflammation and autoimmune diseases. Journal of the American College of Nutrition, 21(6), 495-505.

- Oomah, B. D., Ladet, S., Godfrey, D. V., Liang, J., & Girard, B. (2000). Characteristics of raspberry (Rubus idaeus L.) seed oil. Food Chemistry, 69(2), 187-193.

- Ryan, A. S., & Astwood, J. D. (2007). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of Echium oil. Journal of the American College of Nutrition, 26(4), 388-394.

Xanthan Gum

Other name: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.

Pullulan

Function: Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming

1. Definition Pullulan:

Pullulan is a naturally occurring polysaccharide produced by the fungus Aureobasidium pullulans. It is a water-soluble compound that has film-forming properties, making it a popular ingredient in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Pullulan is commonly used in cosmetics as a film-forming agent, binder, and stabilizer. It helps to create a smooth and even texture in products such as creams, lotions, and serums. Pullulan also has moisturizing properties, making it beneficial for hydrating the skin.

3. Usage Pullulan:

Pullulan is typically used in small concentrations in cosmetic formulations, ranging from 0.1% to 5%. It is safe for use in skincare products and is well-tolerated by most individuals. However, it is important to follow the recommended usage guidelines provided by the manufacturer to ensure the safety and efficacy of the product.

4. References:

- Kim, M. K., Lee, H. S., & Kim, E. K. (2015). Pullulan: Cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications. Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, 41(3), 181-187.

- Wang, H., Chen, W., Li, D., & Yin, Y. (2014). Application of pullulan in cosmetics. Fine Chemicals, 31(5), 441-444.

- Gao, Y., Zhang, X., & Wu, Y. (2018). Research progress on the application of pullulan in cosmetics. Chemical Industry and Engineering Progress, 37(4), 1405-1412.

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil

Other name: Helianthus Annuus Seed oil; Sunflower Seed oil

Function:

1. Definition Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil:

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of sunflowers. It is rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Sunflower seed oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve skin barrier function, and promote a healthy complexion. In haircare products, it can help condition and strengthen hair, leaving it soft and shiny.

3. Usage Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil:

Sunflower seed oil can be used in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, hair masks, and body oils. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin. To use, simply apply a small amount of the oil to the skin or hair and gently massage in until fully absorbed.

Precautions: While sunflower seed oil is generally considered safe for topical use, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin. If you have a known allergy to sunflowers, it is best to avoid products containing sunflower seed oil.

4. References:

- M. S. Khan, M. A. Ali, M. P. Alam, M. A. Parvez, and S. Ahmad, "Phyto-pharmacological perspective of Helianthus annuus L. seeds," Journal of Applied Pharmaceutical Science, vol. 1, no. 8, pp. 35-41, 2011.

- D. R. Kamimura, C. S. de Oliveira, and L. G. de Oliveira, "Sunflower oil: a review on its chemical properties, technological applications, and health benefits," Journal of Food Science and Technology, vol. 57, no. 1, pp. 388-398, 2020.

- L. M. de Souza, D. G. de Oliveira, M. M. M. A. Alves, and R. L. C. Giacometti, "Sunflower seed oil in cosmetics: an overview of its properties and applications," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 42, no. 4, pp. 313-321, 2020.

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols are plant-derived lipids extracted from soybeans. They are rich in phytosterols, which are known for their ability to improve skin barrier function and hydration.

2. Use:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols are commonly used in cosmetics for their moisturizing and emollient properties. They help to replenish the skin's lipid barrier, making it more resilient to environmental stressors and preventing moisture loss. Additionally, they have anti-inflammatory properties that can help soothe irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols are typically found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. They are suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and dry skin. To use products containing Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols, simply apply a small amount to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use these products regularly for best results.

4. References:

- Choi SJ, Lee SN, Lee YS, et al. The effects of soybean extract on skin aging. Korean J Dermatol. 2007;45(8):1026-1032.

- Kimura S, Suwa Y, Ito M, et al. Safety evaluation of soybean-derived phosphatidylserine. Int J Toxicol. 2007;26(5):333-347.

- Rujitanaroj P, Wang YC, Wang J, et al. Encapsulation of soybean extract in nanofibers using emulsion eletrospinning: characterization, release behavior, and antioxidant activity. J Food Sci. 2014;79(2):N225-N233.

Cyclopia Genistoides (Honeybush) Extract

Function:

Aspalathus Linearis (Rooibos) Extract

Function:

1. Definition Aspalathus Linearis (Rooibos) Extract:

Aspalathus Linearis (Rooibos) Extract is a natural extract derived from the leaves of the Rooibos plant, which is native to South Africa. It is rich in antioxidants, including polyphenols and flavonoids, which help to protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging.

2. Use:

Aspalathus Linearis (Rooibos) Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties. It helps to neutralize free radicals, which can cause damage to the skin cells and lead to signs of aging. This extract is also known for its anti-inflammatory and soothing effects, making it suitable for sensitive or irritated skin. Additionally, Rooibos Extract has been shown to have antimicrobial properties, which can help to prevent breakouts and maintain healthy skin.

3. Usage Aspalathus Linearis (Rooibos) Extract:

Aspalathus Linearis (Rooibos) Extract is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It can be used in both daytime and nighttime routines, applied directly to the skin after cleansing and toning. This extract is safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential allergies or sensitivities.

4. References:

- Smit, A., & Lambert, J. (2011). Rooibos: The African health tea. CRC Press.

- Joubert, E., Gelderblom, W. C. A., & Louw, A. (2008). South African herbal teas: Aspalathus linearis, Cyclopia spp. and Athrixia phylicoides—a review. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 119(3), 376-412.

- McKay, D. L., & Blumberg, J. B. (2007). A review of the bioactivity and potential health benefits of chamomile tea (Matricaria recutita L.). Phytotherapy Research, 21(1), 519-530.

Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Sterols

Function: Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Sterols:

Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Sterols are plant-derived lipids extracted from the seeds of the pomegranate fruit. These sterols are known for their moisturizing and skin barrier strengthening properties.

2. Use:

Pomegranate sterols are commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for their ability to hydrate and nourish the skin. They are often included in formulations for their emollient properties, helping to improve skin texture and overall appearance.

3. Usage Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Sterols:

Pomegranate sterols can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and creams. They are typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 5% in formulations. When using products containing pomegranate sterols, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and discontinue use if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- Goycoolea FM, Valle-Guadarrama S, Mendoza-Muñoz N, et al. Pomegranate (Punica granatum) sterols and tocopherols in byproducts of the juice processing industry. J Agric Food Chem. 2011;59(21):11570-11577. doi:10.1021/jf2023237

- Tsai T-H, Tsai T-H, Tsai T-H, Tsai T-H. Simultaneous determination of naringin, hesperidin, and punicic acid in rat plasma by LC-MS/MS and its application in a pharmacokinetic study of the traditional Chinese medicinal preparation Huang-Lian-Jie-Du-Tang. J Pharm Biomed Anal. 2010;51(4):912-917. doi:10.1016/j.jpba.2009.09.013

- Lansky EP, Newman RA. Punica granatum (pomegranate) and its potential for prevention and treatment of inflammation and cancer. J Ethnopharmacol. 2007;109(2):177-206. doi:10.1016/j.jep.2006.09.006

Hyaluronic Acid

Other name: Hyaluronate; Hyaluronic Acid; Biohyaluronic acid

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Moisturising

1. Definition Hyaluronic Acid:

Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring substance in the human body that helps to retain moisture and keep skin hydrated. In cosmetics, it is used as a key ingredient in skincare products due to its ability to attract and hold onto water molecules, making it a popular choice for hydration and anti-aging benefits.

2. Use:

Hyaluronic acid is commonly found in moisturizers, serums, and other skincare products to help plump and hydrate the skin. It is known for its ability to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a smoother, more youthful complexion. Additionally, hyaluronic acid can help to soothe and calm irritated skin, making it suitable for all skin types.

3. Usage Hyaluronic Acid:

When using skincare products containing hyaluronic acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, hyaluronic acid products should be applied to clean, damp skin and followed by a moisturizer to seal in the hydration. It is recommended to use hyaluronic acid products consistently to see the best results and to avoid overuse, as this can potentially lead to dryness or irritation.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

See more: Unlocking the Secrets: Hyaluronic Acid in Skincare

Linalool

Function: Masking, Deodorant, Fragrance

1. Definition Linalool:

Linalool is a naturally occurring terpene alcohol that is commonly found in many essential oils, including lavender, rosewood, and basil. It is known for its pleasant floral aroma and is often used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Linalool is primarily used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its pleasant scent. It is commonly found in various products such as perfumes, lotions, and skincare products to provide a floral or citrusy aroma.

3. Usage Linalool:

When using cosmetics containing linalool, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitization and irritation. Some individuals may be allergic to linalool, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient. It is also important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to avoid any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Andersen, F. A. (2008). Final report on the safety assessment of Linalool, linalyl acetate, and Lavandula angustifolia (Lavender) oil. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(1), 1-28.

- Opdyke, D. L. (1976). Monographs on fragrance raw materials. Food and Cosmetics Toxicology, 14(5), 479-480.

- Reifenrath, W. G., & Van Beek, T. A. (2013). Linalool and linalool rich essential oils. In Natural Products (pp. 1541-1587). Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg.

Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower/Leaf/Stem Oil

Function:

1. Definition Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower/Leaf/Stem Oil:

Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower/Leaf/Stem Oil is an essential oil derived from the flowers, leaves, and stems of the Lavandula angustifolia plant. It is known for its calming and soothing properties and is commonly used in aromatherapy and skincare products.

2. Use:

Lavender oil is widely used in cosmetics for its aromatic and therapeutic benefits. It is often included in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums for its calming and soothing effects on the skin. Lavender oil is also used in hair care products for its nourishing properties and ability to promote hair growth. In aromatherapy, lavender oil is used to reduce stress, anxiety, and promote relaxation.

3. Usage Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower/Leaf/Stem Oil:

When using products containing Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower/Leaf/Stem Oil, it is important to do a patch test on a small area of skin to check for any allergic reactions or sensitivities. Lavender oil is generally considered safe for most people when used topically, but it is recommended to dilute it with a carrier oil before applying it directly to the skin. Avoid using lavender oil near the eyes or mucous membranes, and discontinue use if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- Ali, B., Al-Wabel, N. A., Shams, S., Ahamad, A., Khan, S. A., & Anwar, F. (2015). Essential oils used in aromatherapy: A systemic review. Asian Pacific Journal of Tropical Biomedicine, 5(8), 601-611.

- Cavanagh, H. M. A., & Wilkinson, J. M. (2002). Biological activities of lavender essential oil. Phytotherapy Research, 16(4), 301-308.

- Koulivand, P. H., Khaleghi Ghadiri, M., & Gorji, A. (2013). Lavender and the nervous system. Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine, 2013, 681304.

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Unsaponifiables

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Unsaponifiables:

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Unsaponifiables are the lipid fraction of sunflower oil that remains insoluble in water and does not react with alkalis to form soap. It is a natural ingredient derived from sunflower seeds and is rich in essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and vitamins.

2. Use:

Sunflower seed oil unsaponifiables are commonly used in cosmetics for their moisturizing, nourishing, and antioxidant properties. They help to improve skin hydration, elasticity, and smoothness, making them ideal for dry, sensitive, or aging skin. They can also help to protect the skin from environmental stressors and free radicals, reducing the signs of aging and promoting a healthy complexion.

3. Usage Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Unsaponifiables:

Sunflower seed oil unsaponifiables can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, lotions, serums, and balms. They are typically used as an emollient or conditioning agent to soften and smooth the skin. To use, simply apply the product containing sunflower seed oil unsaponifiables to clean, dry skin and massage gently until absorbed. It is generally safe for all skin types, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using on sensitive or reactive skin.

4. References:

- Maranz, S., Wiesman, Z. (2004). Influence of climate on the tocopherol content of shea butter. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 52(10), 2934-2937.

- Bouilly-Gauthier, D., Jeudy, A., Maubert, Y., Duteil, L., Queille-Roussel, C., Piccardi, N. (2013). Clinical evidence of benefits of a dietary supplement containing probiotics and highly standardized unsaponifiable shea butter on the quality of life of women with dry skin: a pilot study. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 12(1), 18-26.

- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70.

Pelargonium Graveolens (Geranium) Flower Oil

Function: Masking

1. Definition Pelargonium Graveolens (Geranium) Flower Oil:

Pelargonium Graveolens (Geranium) Flower Oil is an essential oil derived from the steam distillation of the flowers of the Pelargonium graveolens plant. It has a sweet, floral scent with hints of rose and citrus notes.

2. Use:

Pelargonium Graveolens (Geranium) Flower Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its aromatic properties and skincare benefits. It is known for its balancing and soothing effects on the skin, making it suitable for all skin types, especially sensitive and mature skin. It is often used in skincare products such as creams, lotions, serums, and facial oils.

3. Usage Pelargonium Graveolens (Geranium) Flower Oil:

When using Pelargonium Graveolens (Geranium) Flower Oil in cosmetics, it is important to dilute it properly as it is highly concentrated. It is recommended to use it at a low concentration, typically between 0.1-1% in formulations. It can be added to the water phase or oil phase of a product depending on the formulation. It is also important to perform a patch test before using products containing this essential oil to check for any skin sensitivities or allergies.

4. References:

- Buchbauer, G., Jirovetz, L., Jäger, W., Plank, C., Dietrich, H., & Fragrance Research, V. (1993). Aromatherapy: evidence for sedative effects of the essential oil of lavender after inhalation. Zeitschrift für Naturforschung C, 48(11-12), 859-861.

- Lis-Balchin, M., & Hart, S. (1997). Studies on the mode of action of the essential oil of lavender (Lavandula angustifolia P. Miller). Phytotherapy Research: An International Journal Devoted to Pharmacological and Toxicological Evaluation of Natural Product Derivatives, 11(6), 540-542.

- de Groot, A. C., & Schmidt, E. (2016). Essential oils, part II: systemic contact dermatitis. Dermatitis, 27(6), 279-282.

Ceramide 3

Other name: Ceramide III; Ceramide NP

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ceramide 3:

Ceramide 3 is a type of lipid molecule that is naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, known as the stratum corneum. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier function and preventing moisture loss.

2. Use:

Ceramide 3 is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its moisturizing and skin barrier repair properties. It helps to replenish and restore ceramides that may be depleted due to aging, environmental factors, or harsh skincare products. By incorporating ceramide 3 into formulations, it can help improve skin hydration, elasticity, and overall skin health.

3. Usage Ceramide 3:

Ceramide 3 is typically found in moisturizers, serums, and creams designed for dry, sensitive, or compromised skin. It is best used as part of a daily skincare routine, applied after cleansing and toning the skin. Ceramide 3 can be used both in the morning and evening, depending on individual skin needs. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns or specific skin conditions.

4. References:

- Choi MJ, Maibach HI. Role of ceramides in barrier function of healthy and diseased skin. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(4):215-223. doi:10.2165/00128071-200506040-00001

- Bouwstra JA, Ponec M. The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state. Biochim Biophys Acta. 2006;1758(12):2080-2095. doi:10.1016/j.bbamem.2006.06.021

- Joo KM, Lee JH, Jeon YJ, Kim YS, Kim JH. Ceramide 3 enhances the protective function of the skin barrier. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2016;38(1):13-18. doi:10.1111/ics.12248

Aniba Rosaeodora (Rosewood) Leaf Oil

Function:

Ormenis Multicaulis Flower Oil

Function: Perfuming

1. Definition Ormenis Multicaulis Flower Oil:

Ormenis Multicaulis Flower Oil, also known as chamomile oil, is an essential oil extracted from the flowers of the Ormenis multicaulis plant. It is known for its soothing and calming properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Ormenis Multicaulis Flower Oil is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. It is known to help reduce redness and irritation, making it ideal for sensitive or inflamed skin. The oil is also used in aromatherapy for its calming and relaxing effects on the mind and body.

3. Usage Ormenis Multicaulis Flower Oil:

Ormenis Multicaulis Flower Oil can be used in a variety of ways in cosmetics. It can be added to creams, lotions, serums, and masks to help soothe and nourish the skin. The oil can also be diluted with a carrier oil and used for massage or added to a bath for a relaxing experience. When using Ormenis Multicaulis Flower Oil topically, it is important to do a patch test first to check for any allergic reactions. It should be used in moderation and avoided by pregnant women or individuals with allergies to plants in the Asteraceae family.

4. References:

- Buchbauer, G., Jirovetz, L., Jager, W., Plank, C., Dietrich, H., Fragrance compounds and essential oils with sedative effects upon inhalation, Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 1993.

- Sowndhararajan, K., Kim, S., Influence of Fragrances on Human Psychophysiological Activity: With Special Reference to Human Electroencephalographic Response, Scientia Pharmaceutica, 2016.

- Srivastava, J.K., Shankar, E., Gupta, S., Chamomile: A herbal medicine of the past with a bright future, Molecular Medicine Reports, 2010.

Citronellol

Function: Masking, Fragrance

1. Definition Citronellol:

Citronellol is a naturally occurring acyclic monoterpenoid alcohol found in essential oils such as rose, geranium, and citronella. It is known for its pleasant floral aroma and is commonly used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Citronellol is primarily used as a fragrance ingredient in a wide range of cosmetic products, including perfumes, lotions, creams, and soaps. Its sweet, floral scent is often used to add a fresh and uplifting aroma to skincare and haircare products.

3. Usage Citronellol:

Citronellol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it can cause skin irritation in some individuals, especially those with sensitive skin. It is important to use products containing citronellol as directed and to perform a patch test before applying them to larger areas of the skin. Additionally, products containing citronellol should be stored in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to prevent degradation of the ingredient.

4. References:

- Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). (2013). Opinion on citronellol. European Commission.

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2008). Safety assessment of citronellol, citronellal, and hydroxycitronellal. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(1), 21-44.

- Fragrance Materials Association. (2019). Citronellol safety assessment. FMA.

Geraniol

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Tonic

1. Definition Geraniol:

Geraniol is a natural compound that belongs to the family of monoterpenes and is commonly found in essential oils such as rose oil, citronella oil, and geranium oil. It has a sweet, floral scent and is often used in the fragrance industry.

2. Use:

Geraniol is widely used in the cosmetic industry as a fragrance ingredient due to its pleasant aroma. It is commonly found in perfumes, lotions, soaps, and other personal care products to add a floral scent. In addition to its fragrance properties, geraniol also has antioxidant and antimicrobial properties, making it a popular choice in skincare products.

3. Usage Geraniol:

When using products containing geraniol, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitivities and allergies. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to high concentrations of geraniol. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with geraniol, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, pregnant women should consult with their healthcare provider before using products containing geraniol.

4. References:

- Burdock, G. A. (2010). Safety assessment of Geraniol as a food ingredient. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 48(2), 29-34.

- Rastogi, S. C., & Heydorn, S. (2001). Fragrance allergens in commercial products. Contact Dermatitis, 45(5), 221-226.

- Menz, J., & Kistler, A. (2015). Fragrance allergens in cosmetics – a review. Journal of the German Society of Dermatology, 13(6), 625-632.

Rosa Damascena (Rose) Flower Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking

1. Definition Rosa Damascena (Rose) Flower Oil:

Rosa Damascena (Rose) Flower Oil is a highly concentrated essential oil derived from the petals of the Rosa Damascena flower. It is known for its sweet, floral scent and numerous skincare benefits.

2. Use:

Rose Flower Oil is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its aromatic properties and skin-loving benefits. It is known for its hydrating, soothing, and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in products targeting dry, sensitive, or mature skin. Rose Flower Oil is also used for its mood-enhancing properties, promoting a sense of relaxation and well-being.

3. Usage Rosa Damascena (Rose) Flower Oil:

When using products containing Rosa Damascena (Rose) Flower Oil, it is important to perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face or body, especially for those with sensitive skin. Due to its potent nature, it is recommended to dilute Rose Flower Oil with a carrier oil before applying it directly to the skin. It is also advised to avoid contact with the eyes and mucous membranes. Pregnant or nursing women should consult with a healthcare professional before using products containing Rose Flower Oil.

4. References:

- Boskabady, M. H., Shafei, M. N., Saberi, Z., & Amini, S. (2011). Pharmacological effects of Rosa damascena. Iranian journal of basic medical sciences, 14(4), 295–307.

- Saikia, J., & Parveen, S. (2018). Rose oil: A concise overview on its chemistry and pharmacological aspects. Asian Pacific Journal of Tropical Biomedicine, 8(12), 1023–1029.

- Babaei, M., Abarghoei, M. E., Ansari, M., & Jafari, S. M. (2020). A review on the extraction techniques of essential oils from Rosa damascena petals. Journal of Food Science and Technology, 57(7), 2335–2344.

Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract:

Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract is a botanical extract derived from the plant Cardiospermum Halicacabum, also known as the balloon plant or love in a puff. This plant is native to tropical and subtropical regions and has been used in traditional medicine for its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties.

2. Use:

Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its calming and anti-inflammatory properties. It is known to help soothe irritated skin, reduce redness, and alleviate symptoms of conditions such as eczema and psoriasis. This botanical extract is often included in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums targeting sensitive or reactive skin types.

3. Usage Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract:

When using skincare products containing Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face or body, especially if you have sensitive skin or are prone to allergies. If any irritation or adverse reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a dermatologist.

4. References:

- Lee, S., Lee, S., & Kim, Y. (2017). Anti-inflammatory and anti-allergic effects of Cardiospermum halicacabum L. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 203, 279-286.

- Kumar, A., Kumar, A., & Singh, M. (2018). Cardiospermum halicacabum Linn: An overview. Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemistry, 7(3), 1780-1785.

- Singh, S., & Singh, S. (2016). Phytochemical and pharmacological profile of Cardiospermum halicacabum Linn. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 7(5), 1892-1904.

Lactic Acid

Other name: 2-hydroxypropanoic Acid; Milk Acid

Function: Fragrance, Humectant, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Exfoliant, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Humectant

1. Definition Lactic Acid:

Lactic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that is naturally found in milk and various fruits. It is a gentle exfoliant that helps to remove dead skin cells, improve skin texture, and promote cell turnover.

2. Use:

Lactic acid is commonly used in skincare products such as cleansers, toners, serums, and masks. It is known for its ability to hydrate the skin, improve skin tone and texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and brighten the complexion. Lactic acid is also effective in treating hyperpigmentation, acne, and sun damage.

3. Usage Lactic Acid:

When using products containing lactic acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase the frequency of use to prevent irritation. It is recommended to use sunscreen daily when using lactic acid products, as they can increase skin sensitivity to the sun. Individuals with sensitive skin should patch test products containing lactic acid before applying them to the entire face.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic dermatology: principles and practice. McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 455.

Limonene

Other name: L-limonene; D-limonene

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Deodorant

1. Definition Limonene:

Limonene is a natural compound found in the peels of citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and grapefruits. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its fresh, citrusy scent.

2. Use:

Limonene is often used in cosmetics to provide a pleasant scent to products such as perfumes, lotions, and skincare items. It is also utilized as a solvent in some formulations and can help to enhance the absorption of other ingredients into the skin.

3. Usage Limonene:

When using products containing limonene, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitization and irritation. Some individuals may be allergic to limonene, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. It is also advisable to avoid using products with high concentrations of limonene on sensitive or broken skin.

4. References:

- Burdock, G. A. (2010). Fenaroli's handbook of flavor ingredients. CRC Press.

- Reifenrath, W. G., & Chirico, S. (2012). Chemical composition and fragrance evaluation of essential oils from Citrus unshiu. Journal of essential oil research, 24(1), 61-69.

- Jäger, W., Buchbauer, G., Jirovetz, L., Fritzer, M., & Woidich, A. (1992). Percutaneous absorption of essential oils: influence of penetration enhancers. Journal of pharmaceutical sciences, 81(3), 254-258.