Ingredients list St. Botanica Vitamin C, E & Hyaluronic Acid ...

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Mineral Water
		Light Kaolin
1	B	Isopropyl Palmitate (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Binding Agent, Binding)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
3	B	Propylene Glycol (Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Skin-Conditioningagent - Miscellaneous)	Good for dry skin
1 2	A	Bentonite (Opacifying, Viscosity Controlling, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Suspending Agent -Nonsurfactant)
1	A	Cetearyl Alcohol (Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous)
4	A	Emulsifying Wax
1	B	Isoamyl Laurate (Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1 3		Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Gel (Skin Conditioning)
8		Fragrance (Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant)	Good for dry skin
1	A	Carbomer (Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming)
1		Vitamin C (Antioxidant, Moisturising, Smoothing, Skin Bleaching Agent)	Good for dry skin Bad for sensitive skin Bad for oily skin Brightening
1		Vitamin B3 (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)
2 9		Zinc Oxide (Skin Protecting, Cosmetic Colorant, Sunscreen Agent, Bulking Agent)	UV Protection Good for oily skin
4 6	A	Benzyl Alcohol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Preservative, External Analgesic )	Allergen
		Matrixyl 3000
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1		Water (Solvent)
1	A	Butylene Glycol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents)	Good for dry skin
3	B	Polysorbate 20 (Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Palmitoyl Tripeptide 1 (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 7 (Skin Conditioning)
		Calendula Oil
1		Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (Skin Conditioning)
3	A	Chlorphenesin (Preservative, Antimicrobial, Cosmetic Biocide)
1	A	Hyaluronic Acid (Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Moisturising)	Promotes Wound Healing
		Alpha Glucosyl Hesperidin
1		Glucosyl Hesperidin (Skin Conditioning, Humectant)
1	A	Allantoin (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing)	Good for sensitive skin Good for oily skin
1	A	Disodium Edta (Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
2	A	Edta (Chelating Agent)
9		Retinol (Vitamin A) (Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin Brightening Acne fighting
		Khus (Vetiveria Zizanioides) Oil
1		Menthol (Masking, Fragrance, Denaturant , External Analgesic , Soothing, Flavoring Agent, Refreshing)	Bad for sensitive skin Bad for dry skin Good for oily skin
1		Arbutin (Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)	Good for dry skin Brightening
		Cucumber Extract
		Vitamin E (Skin Conditioning)	Good for dry skin Anti Aging
1 2		Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Extract (Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Protecting, Uv Absorber, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient, Antimicrobial, Astringent, Tonic, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Miscellaneous)
2	B	Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract (Skin Conditioning, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Occlusive)	Good for sensitive skin Good for dry skin
1	B	Sodium Pca (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)	Good for dry skin
5		Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract (Perfuming, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)	Brightening Acne fighting
		White Mulberry (Morus Alba) Extract
5	B	Triethanolamine (Masking, Fragrance, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
3		CI 14700 (Cosmetic Colorant)
3		CI 19140 (Colorant, Cosmetic Colorant)
1		CI 15985 (Cosmetic Colorant)

Mineral Water

Function:

1. Definition Mineral Water:

Mineral water in cosmetics refers to water sourced from natural mineral springs that contains various minerals and trace elements beneficial for the skin.

2. Use:

Mineral water is commonly used in cosmetics as a hydrating and refreshing ingredient. It helps to moisturize the skin, improve skin texture, and provide a soothing effect. Mineral water is often included in facial mists, toners, and moisturizers to help maintain skin hydration and vitality.

3. Usage Mineral Water:

Mineral water can be used in various ways in skincare routines. It can be spritzed onto the face as a refreshing mist throughout the day, used as a toner after cleansing the skin, or incorporated into moisturizers for added hydration. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin, and can be used daily as part of a skincare regimen.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic dermatology: principles and practice. McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2012). Dry skin and moisturizers: chemistry and function. CRC Press.

Light Kaolin

Function:

Isopropyl Palmitate

Other name: IPP

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Binding Agent, Binding

1. Definition Isopropyl Palmitate:

Isopropyl Palmitate is a synthetic compound commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and thickening agent. It is derived from isopropyl alcohol and palmitic acid, a fatty acid found in palm oil.

2. Use:

Isopropyl Palmitate is used in cosmetics for its ability to moisturize and soften the skin. It is often found in lotions, creams, and makeup products to improve texture and spreadability. Additionally, it can help to enhance the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare formulations.

3. Usage Isopropyl Palmitate:

Isopropyl Palmitate is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it may cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals, especially those with sensitive skin. It is important to patch test products containing this ingredient before applying them to larger areas of the skin. Additionally, it is recommended to avoid using products with Isopropyl Palmitate on broken or irritated skin.

4. References:

- "Isopropyl Palmitate" Cosmeticsinfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/isopropyl-palmitate

- "Isopropyl Palmitate" Paula's Choice Skincare Ingredient Dictionary, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/skin-soothing/isopropyl-palmitate.html

- "Isopropyl Palmitate" The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/isopropyl-palmitate/

Propylene Glycol

Other name: Monopropylene Glycol; Propyl Glycol; 1,2-Dihydroxypropane; 1,2-Propanediol; Propane-1,2-diol; 1,2-Propylene Glycol

Function: Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Skin-Conditioningagent - Miscellaneous

1. Definition Propylene Glycol:

Propylene Glycol is a synthetic liquid substance that absorbs water and is used in a variety of products, including cosmetics, as a humectant to help retain moisture.

2. Use:

Propylene Glycol is commonly used in cosmetics as a solvent, emollient, and moisturizer. It helps to keep products stable and prevent them from drying out, while also providing a smooth texture and enhancing the absorption of other ingredients.

3. Usage Propylene Glycol:

When using cosmetics containing Propylene Glycol, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to this ingredient, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Propylene Glycol for the first time. Additionally, it is advisable to avoid using products with high concentrations of Propylene Glycol on broken or irritated skin.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of Propylene Glycol, Tripropylene Glycol, and PPGs as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel

- "Propylene Glycol" by the Environmental Working Group

- "Propylene Glycol in Cosmetics" by the Personal Care Products Council

Bentonite

Other name: Bentonite Clay; Gelwhite L

Function: Opacifying, Viscosity Controlling, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Suspending Agent -Nonsurfactant

1. Definition Bentonite:

Bentonite is a type of clay derived from volcanic ash deposits and is known for its ability to absorb and remove toxins, impurities, and excess oil from the skin. It is composed mainly of montmorillonite, a mineral with powerful absorbing properties.

2. Use:

Bentonite is commonly used in cosmetics for its purifying and detoxifying properties. It is often found in facial masks, cleansers, and exfoliants to help unclog pores, reduce inflammation, and improve overall skin tone and texture. Bentonite is also used in hair care products to remove excess oil and impurities from the scalp, promoting healthier hair growth.

3. Usage Bentonite:

When using bentonite in cosmetics, it is important to mix it with water or other liquid ingredients to form a paste before applying it to the skin or hair. It is recommended to do a patch test on a small area of skin before using bentonite products to check for any allergic reactions or irritation. Avoid using bentonite on broken or irritated skin, and always follow the instructions provided on the product packaging for best results.

4. References:

- Chauhan, A., & Chauhan, P. (2019). Bentonite Clay as a Natural Remedy: A Brief Review. Journal of Traditional and Complementary Medicine, 9(3), 184-189.

- Williams, L. B., & Haydel, S. E. (2010). Evaluation of the medicinal use of clay minerals as antibacterial agents. International Geology Review, 52(7/8), 745-770.

- Singh, M., & Singh, S. (2017). Bentonite Clay as a Natural Remedy: A Review. Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemistry, 6(1), 295-299.

Cetearyl Alcohol

Other name: Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol; Cetostearyl Alcohol; C16-18 Alcohols

Function: Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous

1. Definition Cetearyl Alcohol:

Cetearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients.

2. Use:

Cetearyl Alcohol is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and hair conditioners. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, as well as improve the texture and consistency of the product. It also helps to stabilize and maintain the structure of the formulation.

3. Usage Cetearyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Cetearyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when using products with Cetearyl Alcohol, so it is recommended to do a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions for use provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective application.

4. References:

- "Cetearyl Alcohol" by Paula Begoun, Cosmetics Cop, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetearyl-alcohol.html

- "Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics: Safe or Harmful?" by Dr. Anvita Arora, Dermatologist, https://www.dranvitaarora.com/cetearyl-alcohol-in-cosmetics-safe-or-harmful/

- "The Role of Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/cetearylcir.pdf

Emulsifying Wax

Other name: Emulsifying Wax; COSMOWAX P; HallStar NCD-20; Cosmowax D; Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20

Function:

1. Definition Emulsifying Wax:

Emulsifying wax is a type of cosmetic ingredient that helps to blend oil and water-based ingredients together to create a stable emulsion in skincare products. It is typically derived from plant-based sources such as coconut or palm oil.

2. Use:

Emulsifying wax is commonly used in the formulation of lotions, creams, and other skincare products to prevent the separation of oil and water-based ingredients. It acts as a binding agent, allowing for a smooth and uniform texture in the final product.

3. Usage Emulsifying Wax:

When using emulsifying wax in skincare formulations, it is important to follow the recommended usage guidelines provided by the manufacturer. It is typically added to the oil phase of the formulation and heated until fully melted before incorporating the water phase. Overheating or using too much emulsifying wax can result in a greasy or sticky texture, so it is important to measure accurately and monitor the temperature during the mixing process.

4. References:

- "Emulsifying Wax: What It Is and How to Use It in DIY Recipes" by Humblebee & Me

- "Emulsifiers in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Science Technology

- "Understanding Emulsifying Wax and How to Use It in Homemade Lotions" by DIY Natural

Isoamyl Laurate

Function: Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Isoamyl Laurate:

Isoamyl Laurate is a natural ester derived from isoamyl alcohol and lauric acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Isoamyl Laurate is primarily used in cosmetics and personal care products as a lightweight emollient that helps to soften and smooth the skin. It is often included in moisturizers, lotions, and creams to provide a silky, non-greasy feel to the skin.

3. Usage Isoamyl Laurate:

Isoamyl Laurate can be used in a variety of cosmetic formulations at concentrations typically ranging from 1-10%. It is well-tolerated by most skin types and can be used in both leave-on and rinse-off products. However, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using any new product containing Isoamyl Laurate to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Isoamyl Laurate" - Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/isoamyl-laurate

- "Isoamyl Laurate" - The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/isoamyl-laurate

- "Isoamyl Laurate in Cosmetics" - Personal Care Magazine, www.personalcaremagazine.com/story/21423/isoamyl-laurate-in-cosmetics

Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Gel

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Gel:

Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Gel is a clear, gel-like substance extracted from the leaves of the Aloe Vera plant. It is known for its soothing and healing properties and is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Aloe Vera gel is used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and healing properties. It is often included in products such as lotions, creams, serums, and masks to help hydrate the skin, reduce redness and inflammation, and promote healing of minor skin irritations.

3. Usage Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Gel:

Aloe Vera gel can be applied directly to the skin or mixed with other ingredients to create homemade skincare products. It is gentle enough for daily use and is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. When using Aloe Vera gel, it is important to perform a patch test first to check for any allergic reactions. It should be stored in a cool, dry place and kept away from direct sunlight to maintain its effectiveness.

4. References:

- Surjushe, A., Vasani, R., & Saple, D. G. (2008). Aloe Vera: A short review. Indian Journal of Dermatology, 53(4), 163–166. https://doi.org/10.4103/0019-5154.44785

- Radha, M. H., & Laxmipriya, N. P. (2015). Evaluation of biological properties and clinical effectiveness of Aloe Vera: A systematic review. Journal of Traditional and Complementary Medicine, 5(1), 21–26. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jtcme.2014.10.006

- Reynolds, T. (2004). The compounds in Aloe Vera that contribute to its healing properties. International Immunopharmacology, 4(2), 175–182. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.intimp.2003.12.023

Fragrance

Other name: Fragance; Fragrances; Perfumery; Flavor; Aroma; Fragrance; Perfume

Function: Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant

1. Definition Fragrance:

Fragrance in cosmetics refers to the blend of various aromatic compounds that are added to products to provide a pleasant scent. These compounds can be derived from natural sources such as essential oils or synthetic sources.

2. Use:

Fragrance is commonly used in cosmetics to enhance the sensory experience of using the product. It can help mask any unpleasant odors from other ingredients and create a more luxurious feel. Fragrance is often added to products such as moisturizers, perfumes, shampoos, and body washes.

3. Usage Fragrance:

When using cosmetics containing fragrance, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to certain fragrances. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and storage of the product to ensure the fragrance remains stable and effective.

4. References:

- Steinemann, A. (2019). Fragranced consumer products: exposures and effects from emissions. Air Quality, Atmosphere & Health, 12(6), 643-645.

- Lachenmeier, D. W., & Haltner, E. (2019). Fragrance allergens in household cleaning products. Environmental Science and Pollution Research, 26(15), 15145-15147.

- Basketter, D. A., & Angelini, G. (2019). Fragrance allergens in fine fragrances and cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis, 80(3), 145-147.

Carbomer

Other name: Carboxypolymethylene; Carbopol; Cabomer

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

1. Definition Carbomer:

Carbomer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and stabilizer. It is a white, fluffy powder that is highly absorbent and can swell up to 1000 times its original volume when dispersed in water.

2. Use:

Carbomer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, gels, and serums. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the stability of emulsions, and enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Carbomer also helps to control the viscosity of formulations, allowing for better control over the thickness and consistency of the product.

3. Usage Carbomer:

When using products containing Carbomer, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. Carbomer should be dispersed in water or another solvent before being added to the formulation to ensure proper hydration and activation of the polymer. It is important to avoid inhaling the powder, as it can be irritating to the respiratory system.

4. References:

- Sharma, A., & Jain, A. (2012). Carbomers: A review. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 3(3), 805-814.

- Liao, Y., & Wang, J. (2017). Carbomer: A versatile polymer in pharmaceutical applications. Polymer Chemistry, 8(3), 355-366.

- Patel, D. (2015). Carbomer in pharmaceuticals: A review. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, 4(2), 121-133.

Vitamin C

Function: Antioxidant, Moisturising, Smoothing, Skin Bleaching Agent

1. Definition Vitamin C:

Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, is a powerful antioxidant that helps to protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage. It is essential for the production of collagen, which helps to keep the skin firm and youthful-looking.

2. Use:

Vitamin C is commonly used in cosmetics for its brightening and anti-aging properties. It can help to even out skin tone, reduce the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation, and improve the overall texture of the skin. Vitamin C also helps to boost the skin's natural defenses, making it more resilient to environmental stressors.

3. Usage Vitamin C:

Vitamin C can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks. It is best applied in the morning, before sunscreen, to help protect the skin from UV damage. When using Vitamin C products, it is important to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase the strength to avoid irritation. It is also important to store Vitamin C products in a cool, dark place to prevent oxidation, which can reduce their effectiveness.

4. References:

- Telang, P. S. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian dermatology online journal, 4(2), 143–146. https://doi.org/10.4103/2229-5178.110593

- Pullar, J. M., Carr, A. C., & Vissers, M. C. (2017). The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients, 9(8), 866. https://doi.org/10.3390/nu9080866

- Al-Niaimi, F., & Chiang, N. (2017). Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 10(7), 14–17.

See more: Exploring Vitamin C in Skincare: A Beginner's Guide to its Benefits and Uses

Vitamin B3

Other name: Nicotinic Acid; Niacin

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Vitamin B3:

Vitamin B3, also known as niacinamide, is a water-soluble vitamin that belongs to the B-complex group. It is an essential nutrient for the body and plays a crucial role in maintaining healthy skin.

2. Use:

Vitamin B3 is commonly used in cosmetics for its various benefits for the skin. It has anti-inflammatory properties that help reduce redness and irritation, making it suitable for sensitive skin types. Vitamin B3 also helps to improve the skin's barrier function, retaining moisture and preventing water loss. Additionally, it can help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, as well as hyperpigmentation.

3. Usage Vitamin B3:

Vitamin B3 can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, moisturizers, and creams. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either as a standalone product or as part of a skincare routine. When using products containing Vitamin B3, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Schagen, S. K., Zampeli, V. A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 298-307.

- Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31, 860-865.

- Draelos, Z. D., & Matsubara, A. (2006). The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production. Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy, 8(2), 96-101.

Zinc Oxide

Other name: microfine Zinc Oxide; CI 77947

Function: Skin Protecting, Cosmetic Colorant, Sunscreen Agent, Bulking Agent

1. Definition Zinc Oxide:

Zinc Oxide is a mineral compound that is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing and protective properties. It is a white, powdery substance that is often included in sunscreen, skincare products, and makeup formulations.

2. Use:

Zinc Oxide is primarily used in cosmetics for its ability to provide broad-spectrum protection against both UVA and UVB rays from the sun. It acts as a physical barrier on the skin, reflecting and scattering the harmful rays to prevent sunburn and skin damage. In addition to its sun protection benefits, Zinc Oxide also has anti-inflammatory properties that can help calm irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Zinc Oxide:

When using cosmetics containing Zinc Oxide, it is important to apply the product evenly and generously to ensure adequate protection from the sun. Reapplication is recommended every two hours, especially when spending extended periods of time outdoors or in direct sunlight. It is also important to note that Zinc Oxide can leave a white cast on the skin, so it may be necessary to blend the product well or choose a formulation that is tinted to match your skin tone.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products (Cosmetic Science and Technology Series). CRC Press.

- Wang, S. Q., & Lim, H. W. (2007). Current status of the sunscreen regulation in the United States: 2011 Food and Drug Administration's final rule on labeling and effectiveness testing. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 66(3), 489-496.

- Nasir, A., Kalam, A., Singh, P., & Sharma, K. (2019). Zinc oxide nanoparticles: a review of their biological synthesis, antimicrobial activity, uptake, translocation and biotransformation in plants. Journal of Materials Science, 54(2), 1016-1042.

Benzyl Alcohol

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Preservative, External Analgesic

1. Definition Benzyl Alcohol:

Benzyl Alcohol is a clear, colorless liquid with a mild, pleasant aroma. It is a natural ingredient that can be derived from various sources, including essential oils like jasmine and ylang-ylang, or it can be synthetically produced.

2. Use:

Benzyl Alcohol is commonly used in cosmetics as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria, yeast, and mold. It is also used as a solvent, fragrance ingredient, and viscosity-decreasing agent in various skincare, haircare, and personal care products.

3. Usage Benzyl Alcohol:

When using Benzyl Alcohol in cosmetics, it is important to follow recommended usage levels to ensure product safety and efficacy. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has deemed Benzyl Alcohol safe for use in cosmetics at concentrations up to 1%, with some exceptions. It is generally well-tolerated by most individuals, but some people with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Benzyl Alcohol, especially if you have a history of skin sensitivities.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2008). Final report on the safety assessment of Benzyl Alcohol, Benzoic Acid, and Sodium Benzoate. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(1), 1-23.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Benzyl Alcohol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/benzyl-alcohol

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). PubChem Compound Summary for CID 244, Benzyl Alcohol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Benzyl-alcohol

Matrixyl 3000

Function:

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Butylene Glycol

Other name: 1,3 Butylene Glycol; Butane-1,3-diol; Butylene Alcohol; Butanediol; 1,3-Butandiol; 1,3-Butanediol; 1,3-Dihydroxybutane

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents

1. Definition Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is a small organic alcohol used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity-decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is derived from petroleum or natural gas.

2. Use:

Butylene Glycol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, a humectant to attract moisture to the skin, and a viscosity-decreasing agent to improve the texture and spreadability of the product. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve product absorption, and create a smooth, lightweight feel.

3. Usage Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to patch test products containing Butylene Glycol before use, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and avoid using products with Butylene Glycol if you have known allergies to similar ingredients.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2001). Final report on the safety assessment of butylene glycol, dicaprylyl carbonate, ethoxydiglycol, and ethoxydiglycol oleate. International Journal of Toxicology, 20(Suppl 4), 61-75.

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 24856, Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylene-glycol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2017). Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/butylene-glycol

Polysorbate 20

Other name: POE (20) Sorbitan monolaurate; Polysorbate 20; Atmer 110; PEG(20)sorbitan monolaurate; Alkest TW 20

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Polysorbate 20:

Polysorbate 20 is a type of nonionic surfactant that is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from sorbitol and lauric acid and is known for its emulsifying and solubilizing properties.

2. Use:

Polysorbate 20 is primarily used as an emulsifier in cosmetics to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together. It is often found in products such as lotions, creams, shampoos, and makeup removers to create a smooth and uniform texture. Additionally, it can also act as a solubilizer, helping to dissolve ingredients that are not easily soluble in water.

3. Usage Polysorbate 20:

When using products containing polysorbate 20, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with polysorbate 20 to determine if any adverse reactions occur. Additionally, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective use.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). Polysorbate 20. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polysorbate-20

- Personal Care Council. (2019). Polysorbate 20. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-dictionary/ingredient/2477

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2009). Polysorbate 20. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Polysorbate-20

Palmitoyl Tripeptide 1

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Palmitoyl Tripeptide 1:

Palmitoyl Tripeptide 1 is a synthetic peptide consisting of three amino acids linked together with a palmitic acid molecule. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties.

2. Use:

Palmitoyl Tripeptide 1 is known for its ability to stimulate collagen production in the skin, which helps improve skin elasticity and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. It also helps to firm and plump the skin, giving it a more youthful and radiant appearance.

3. Usage Palmitoyl Tripeptide 1:

Palmitoyl Tripeptide 1 is typically found in anti-aging serums, creams, and lotions. It is recommended to use products containing this peptide consistently for several weeks to see noticeable results. It is important to follow the instructions provided by the product manufacturer and to patch test before applying it to the entire face to avoid any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Sonti S, Makino ET, Garruto J, et al. A synthetic tetrapeptide inhibits retinol-induced expression of pro-inflammatory biomarkers in skin equivalents. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(6):694-700.

- Kimura Y, Sumiyoshi M, Kobayashi Y. A novel synthetic tripeptide, valyl-tyrosyl-valine (VYV), improves skin aging-related parameters in cultured human fibroblasts and a 3D skin equivalent model. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2016;15(4):457-463.

- Lintner K, Peschard O. Biologically active peptides: from a laboratory bench curiosity to a functional skin care product. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2000;22(4):207-218.

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 7

Other name: Palmitoyl-GQPR; Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 7:

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 7, also known as Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, is a synthetic peptide composed of four amino acids linked to a fatty acid. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties.

2. Use:

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 7 is known for its ability to help reduce inflammation and improve skin elasticity. It works by stimulating the production of collagen and elastin in the skin, which can help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. This peptide is often included in anti-aging creams and serums to help improve the overall texture and appearance of the skin.

3. Usage Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 7:

When using skincare products containing Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 7, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, these products are applied to clean, dry skin and massaged in gently until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use these products consistently for best results, as the effects of the peptide may take time to become noticeable. It is also important to use sunscreen daily when using products containing Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 7, as it can increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun.

4. References:

- Srinivas, R., & Srinivas, G. (2018). Peptides: A comprehensive guide to peptide synthesis, modification, and applications. CRC Press.

- Lintner, K., & Peschard, O. (2012). Biologically active peptides: from a laboratory bench curiosity to a functional skin care product. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 34(4), 299-306.

- Kim, S. H., & Kim, K. H. (2014). Efficacy and safety of Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 in the treatment of facial wrinkles. Journal of Dermatological Science, 76(1), 8-14.

Calendula Oil

Function:

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Other name: Ethyl Ascorbic Acid; 3-O-Ethyl-L-ascorbic acid

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ethyl Ascorbic Acid:

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a stable derivative of Vitamin C that is commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties and ability to brighten the skin. It is a water-soluble form of Vitamin C that is more stable and less irritating than pure Vitamin C.

2. Use:

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is used in cosmetics for its various benefits to the skin. It helps to protect the skin from free radicals, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and brighten the complexion. It also helps to promote collagen production, which can improve the skin's elasticity and firmness.

3. Usage Ethyl Ascorbic Acid:

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% in skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is best applied to clean, dry skin in the morning and evening before moisturizer. It is important to wear sunscreen during the day when using products containing Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, as it can increase the skin's sensitivity to UV rays.

4. References:

- Telang, P. S. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian dermatology online journal, 4(2), 143–146. https://doi.org/10.4103/2229-5178.110593

- Al-Niaimi, F., & Chiang, N. (2017). Topical Vitamin C and the skin: Mechanisms of action and clinical applications. Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology, 10(7), 14–17.

- Pullar, J. M., Carr, A. C., & Vissers, M. C. M. (2017). The roles of Vitamin C in skin health. Nutrients, 9(8), 866. https://doi.org/10.3390/nu9080866

Chlorphenesin

Other name: Maolate

Function: Preservative, Antimicrobial, Cosmetic Biocide

1. Definition Chlorphenesin:

Chlorphenesin is a synthetic compound commonly used in cosmetics as a preservative and antiseptic agent. It is a white crystalline powder with a mild, pleasant odor.

2. Use:

Chlorphenesin is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various personal care products. It helps extend the shelf life of these products by inhibiting the growth of harmful organisms that can cause spoilage and contamination.

3. Usage Chlorphenesin:

Chlorphenesin is typically found in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums, as well as in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally safe for use in cosmetics when used in accordance with regulatory guidelines and recommended concentrations. However, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and avoid using products containing chlorphenesin if you have known allergies or sensitivities to the compound.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final report on the safety assessment of chlorphenesin. Int J Toxicol. 2007;26 Suppl 3:61-72. doi: 10.1080/10915810701663150.

- Personal Care Products Council. Safety Assessment of Chlorphenesin as Used in Cosmetics. 2013. https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr126.pdf.

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. CFR - Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. 2019. https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.822.

Hyaluronic Acid

Other name: Hyaluronate; Hyaluronic Acid; Biohyaluronic acid

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Moisturising

1. Definition Hyaluronic Acid:

Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring substance in the human body that helps to retain moisture and keep skin hydrated. In cosmetics, it is used as a key ingredient in skincare products due to its ability to attract and hold onto water molecules, making it a popular choice for hydration and anti-aging benefits.

2. Use:

Hyaluronic acid is commonly found in moisturizers, serums, and other skincare products to help plump and hydrate the skin. It is known for its ability to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a smoother, more youthful complexion. Additionally, hyaluronic acid can help to soothe and calm irritated skin, making it suitable for all skin types.

3. Usage Hyaluronic Acid:

When using skincare products containing hyaluronic acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, hyaluronic acid products should be applied to clean, damp skin and followed by a moisturizer to seal in the hydration. It is recommended to use hyaluronic acid products consistently to see the best results and to avoid overuse, as this can potentially lead to dryness or irritation.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

See more: Unlocking the Secrets: Hyaluronic Acid in Skincare

Alpha Glucosyl Hesperidin

Function:

Glucosyl Hesperidin

Function: Skin Conditioning, Humectant

1. Definition Glucosyl Hesperidin:

Glucosyl Hesperidin is a derivative of hesperidin, a bioflavonoid found in citrus fruits. It is a water-soluble ingredient that is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-brightening and antioxidant properties.

2. Use:

Glucosyl Hesperidin is known for its ability to improve the appearance of uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation. It works by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase, which is responsible for the production of melanin in the skin. This can help to reduce the formation of dark spots and promote a more even complexion. Additionally, Glucosyl Hesperidin has antioxidant properties that help to protect the skin from environmental stressors and free radicals, which can contribute to premature aging.

3. Usage Glucosyl Hesperidin:

Glucosyl Hesperidin is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is recommended to use products containing Glucosyl Hesperidin consistently to see the best results. When using products with this ingredient, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to patch test on a small area of skin before applying it to the entire face to check for any potential irritation or allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Kim YJ, Uyama H. Tyrosinase inhibitors from natural and synthetic sources: structure, inhibition mechanism and perspective for the future. Cell Mol Life Sci. 2005;62(15):1707-23. doi: 10.1007/s00018-005-5112-3. PMID: 15971057.

- Kawaii S, Tomono Y, Katase E, Ogawa K, Yano M. Antiproliferative activity of flavonoids on several cancer cell lines. Biosci Biotechnol Biochem. 1999;63(5):896-9. doi: 10.1271/bbb.63.896. PMID: 10380606.

- Morley KL, Ferguson PJ, Koropatnick J. Tangeretin and nobiletin induce G1 cell cycle arrest but not apoptosis in human breast and colon cancer cells. Cancer Lett. 2007;251(1):168-78. doi: 10.1016/j.canlet.2006.11.004. Epub 2006 Dec 26. PMID: 17187921.

Allantoin

Other name: Glyoxyldiureide; Allantion

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing

1. Definition Allantoin:

Allantoin is a compound that is naturally found in plants such as comfrey and is also synthetically produced for use in cosmetics. It is known for its soothing, healing, and moisturizing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Allantoin is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to promote skin regeneration and repair. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, making it an effective ingredient in products designed to treat dry, rough, or damaged skin. Allantoin is also known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it a great option for soothing irritated or sensitive skin.

3. Usage Allantoin:

Allantoin is typically found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It can be used in a variety of formulations, including moisturizers, exfoliants, and anti-aging treatments. When using products containing allantoin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to patch test the product before applying it to larger areas of the skin to ensure compatibility.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences.

- Mukherjee, P. K., & Maity, N. (2011). Acute oral toxicity study of Allantoin in Swiss albino mice. International Journal of Research in Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Sciences, 2(3), 1247-1251.

- Vaughn, A. R., Clark, A. K., Sivamani, R. K., & Shi, V. Y. (2019). Natural oils for skin-barrier repair: ancient compounds now backed by modern science. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 20(3), 285-295.

Disodium Edta

Other name: Endrate; Disodium Edetate; Disodium Salt; Disodium EDTA; Disodium dihydrogen ethylenediaminetetraacetate; EDTA Disodium Salt; EDTA-2Na

Function: Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA, or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium salt, is a chelating agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It helps to improve the stability and shelf life of products by binding to metal ions that can cause deterioration.

2. Use:

Disodium EDTA is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative and stabilizer. It helps to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria, as well as maintain the texture and appearance of products. Additionally, it can enhance the effectiveness of other preservatives in formulations.

3. Usage Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 0.5% in cosmetics. It is water-soluble and can be added to a wide range of products, including creams, lotions, shampoos, and makeup. However, it is important to note that while Disodium EDTA is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it and experience skin irritation. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Disodium EDTA, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTA. International Journal of Toxicology, 21(Suppl 2), 95-142.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). EDTA. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/edta/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=184.1133

Edta

Other name: Ethylene Diamine Tetraacetic Acid; Edetic acid; Edetate; EDTA; Titriplex 3; Titriplex III

Function: Chelating Agent

1. Definition Edta:

EDTA, or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, is a synthetic compound commonly used in cosmetics as a chelating agent. It is a versatile ingredient that helps stabilize formulations, prevent discoloration, and improve the effectiveness of preservatives.

2. Use:

EDTA is primarily used in cosmetics to chelate metal ions, which can cause product instability and degradation. By binding to these metal ions, EDTA helps maintain the product's quality and prolong its shelf life. Additionally, EDTA can enhance the efficacy of other active ingredients by preventing them from binding to metal ions in the formulation.

3. Usage Edta:

When using cosmetics containing EDTA, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. EDTA is generally considered safe for topical use in cosmetics, but it is recommended to perform a patch test before regular use to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to avoid using products with EDTA on broken or irritated skin, as it may cause further irritation.

4. References:

- Loden M, Buraczewska I, Edlund F. Irritation potential of EDTA in a hand dishwashing detergent. Acta Derm Venereol. 1999;79(5):371-4.

- Guo M, Zhang G, Zhang X, et al. Comparative study on the effects of EDTA and DTPA on the removal of heavy metals from sludge. Water Sci Technol. 2018;77(4):1102-1109.

- Bhatia R, Sharma K, Sharma A. Ethylenediaminetetraacetic Acid (EDTA) in endodontics. J Clin Diagn Res. 2014;8(7):ZE13-5.

Retinol (Vitamin A)

Other name: Form of Retinoids; Vitamin A

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Retinol (Vitamin A):

Retinol, also known as Vitamin A1, is a type of retinoid that is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties. It is a form of vitamin A that is easily absorbed by the skin and has been proven to improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin tone.

2. Use:

Retinol is primarily used in cosmetics and skincare products for its ability to promote cell turnover and stimulate collagen production. It can help to reduce the appearance of wrinkles, improve skin texture, and even out skin tone. Retinol is also effective in treating acne and reducing the appearance of acne scars.

3. Usage Retinol (Vitamin A):

When using products containing retinol, it is important to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase the strength as your skin becomes more tolerant. Retinol can cause skin irritation, redness, and peeling, especially when first starting out. It is recommended to use retinol products at night and always follow up with a moisturizer and sunscreen during the day to protect your skin from sun damage.

4. References:

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348. https://doi.org/10.2147/ciia.2006.1.4.327

- Kang, S., Duell, E. A., Fisher, G. J., Datta, S. C., Wang, Z. Q., Reddy, A. P., & Voorhees, J. J. (1995). Application of retinol to human skin in vivo induces epidermal hyperplasia and cellular retinoid binding proteins characteristic of retinoic acid but without measurable retinoic acid levels or irritation. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 105(4), 549–556. https://doi.org/10.1111/1523-1747.ep12323560

Khus (Vetiveria Zizanioides) Oil

Function:

Menthol

Other name: L-Menthol; DL-Menthol; Mentholum

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Denaturant , External Analgesic , Soothing, Flavoring Agent, Refreshing

1. Definition Menthol:

Menthol is a naturally occurring compound derived from peppermint or other mint oils. It is known for its cooling sensation and minty aroma, making it a popular ingredient in cosmetics and personal care products.

2. Use:

Menthol is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing and cooling properties. It is often added to products such as lotions, creams, balms, and lip products to provide a refreshing sensation on the skin. Menthol can also help to relieve minor skin irritations and itching.

3. Usage Menthol:

When using cosmetics containing menthol, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Menthol can cause skin irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product. Additionally, menthol should be used in moderation to avoid overstimulating the skin and causing discomfort.

4. References:

- Yosipovitch, G., & Maibach, H. I. (1998). Sensitive Skin Syndrome. CRC Press.

- Rawlings, A. V., & Leyden, J. J. (2004). Skin Moisturization. CRC Press.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

Arbutin

Other name: Arbutoside; Arbutine

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Arbutin:

Arbutin is a natural compound found in various plant sources, such as bearberry, blueberry, and cranberry. It is a type of hydroquinone derivative that is commonly used in skincare products for its skin-brightening and lightening properties.

2. Use:

Arbutin is often included in skincare products, such as serums, creams, and lotions, to help reduce the appearance of dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and uneven skin tone. It works by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase, which is involved in the production of melanin, the pigment responsible for skin color.

3. Usage Arbutin:

When using skincare products containing arbutin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to apply the product to clean, dry skin and to use sunscreen during the day to protect the skin from further damage. It is also advisable to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to check for any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Arbutin: Mechanism of action and its cosmetic properties. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6017965/

- Skin lightening agents: new chemical and plant extracts. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2801997/

- A review of the topical effects of arbutin. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2958188/

See more: Arbutin

Cucumber Extract

Function:

Vitamin E

Other name: Tocopherol; Vit E; vitamin E; α-Tocopherol; Alpha-tocopherol

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Vitamin E:

Vitamin E is a fat-soluble antioxidant that helps protect skin cells from damage caused by free radicals and UV radiation. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and anti-aging properties.

2. Use:

Vitamin E is often included in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums to help hydrate and nourish the skin. It is also used in hair care products to promote healthy hair growth and prevent split ends. In addition, Vitamin E can help improve the appearance of scars and stretch marks by promoting skin regeneration.

3. Usage Vitamin E:

When using Vitamin E in cosmetics, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to do a patch test before using Vitamin E products on a larger area of the skin. Additionally, Vitamin E should be stored in a cool, dark place to prevent oxidation and maintain its efficacy.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Farris, P. K. (2007). Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Practice. Hoboken, NJ: Wiley-Blackwell.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.

Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Extract

Other name: Green Tea Extract Powder; Green Tea Extract; Camellia Sinensis Extract

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Protecting, Uv Absorber, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient, Antimicrobial, Astringent, Tonic, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Miscellaneous

1. Definition Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Extract:

Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Extract is derived from the leaves of the Camellia Sinensis plant, which is the same plant used to produce green tea. It is rich in antioxidants, particularly catechins, which help to protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging.

2. Use:

Green tea extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties, which can help to reduce inflammation, protect against UV damage, and improve overall skin health. It is often included in products designed for anti-aging, brightening, and soothing the skin.

3. Usage Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Extract:

Green tea extract can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including serums, moisturizers, masks, and cleansers. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either on its own or as part of a formulation with other beneficial ingredients. It is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and to perform a patch test before using a new product containing green tea extract to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Yoon HS, Kim JR, Park GY, Kim JY, Won YJ, Kim HR, Kim BJ. Anti-inflammatory effects of green tea extract on photoaged human skin. J Dermatol Sci. 2016 Oct;84(1):74-83. doi: 10.1016/j.jdermsci.2016.06.016. Epub 2016 Jul 1. PMID: 27422719.

- Chiu AE, Chan JL, Kern DG, Kohler S, Rehmus WE, Kimball AB. Double-blinded, placebo-controlled trial of green tea extracts in the clinical and histologic appearance of photoaging skin. Dermatol Surg. 2005 Jul;31(7 Pt 2):855-60; discussion 860. doi: 10.1097/00042728-200507000-00011. PMID: 16029678.

- Zhou B, Wu LM, Yang L, Liu ZL. Evidence for alpha-bisabolol as a natural antioxidant. J Agric Food Chem. 2007 Aug 8;55(16):6302-6306. doi: 10.1021/jf070477y. Epub 2007 Jul 11. PMID: 17625876.

Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Occlusive

1. Definition Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract:

Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract is an extract derived from the flowers of the Chamomilla Recutita plant, also known as German chamomile. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract is used in skincare products for its calming and anti-irritant properties. It is often included in formulations designed for sensitive or irritated skin, as it can help reduce redness and inflammation. Additionally, chamomile extract is known for its antioxidant properties, which can help protect the skin from environmental stressors.

3. Usage Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract:

Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, serums, and masks. It is typically used at a concentration of 0.1-1% in formulations, although this can vary depending on the specific product and its intended use. When using products containing chamomile extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. Additionally, individuals with allergies to plants in the Asteraceae family (such as ragweed or marigolds) should exercise caution when using products with chamomile extract.

4. References:

- Srivastava JK, Shankar E, Gupta S. Chamomile: A herbal medicine of the past with bright future. Mol Med Report. 2010 Nov 1;3(6):895-901. doi: 10.3892/mmr.2010.377.

- Reuter J, Huyke C, Casetti F, Theek C, Frank U, Augustin M. Anti-inflammatory potential of a lipolotion containing coriander oil in the ultraviolet erythema test. J Dtsch Dermatol Ges. 2008 May;6(5):428-34. doi: 10.1111/j.1610-0387.2008.06605.x.

- Keane KM, Calton EK, Cruzat VF, Soares MJ, Newsholme P. The impact of cryopreservation on human peripheral blood leucocyte bioenergetics. Clin Sci (Lond). 2015 Apr;128(8):723-33. doi: 10.1042/CS20140521.

Sodium Pca

Other name: Na-PCA; NaPCA; PCA-Na; Sodium Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid; Sodium Pyrrolidone Carboxylate; Sodium L-2-Pyrrolidone-5-Carboxylate; Sodium DL-Pyrrolidone Carboxylate

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Sodium Pca:

Sodium PCA, or sodium pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, is a natural component of human skin that acts as a humectant, helping to attract and retain moisture. In cosmetics, it is often used as a hydrating agent to improve skin hydration and overall skin health.

2. Use:

Sodium PCA is commonly used in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and lotions due to its ability to attract and hold moisture in the skin. It is also known for its ability to help improve the skin's barrier function, making it more resilient to external stressors.

3. Usage Sodium Pca:

When using products containing Sodium PCA, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is recommended to use products containing Sodium PCA consistently for best results.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2015). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw-Hill.

Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract

Other name: Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract; Licorice Root Extract; Oil Soluble Licorice (Glycyrrhiza) Extract

Function: Perfuming, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract:

Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the root of the licorice plant. It contains various compounds such as glycyrrhizin, flavonoids, and saponins, which have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin brightening properties.

2. Use:

Licorice root extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and brightening effects. It helps to calm irritation, reduce redness, and even out skin tone. Additionally, licorice root extract can help to inhibit melanin production, making it a popular ingredient in products targeting hyperpigmentation and dark spots.

3. Usage Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract:

Licorice root extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as serums, creams, masks, and spot treatments. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied directly to the skin or mixed into formulations. It is generally considered safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using products containing licorice root extract to check for any potential allergies or sensitivities.

4. References:

- Cho, S., Lee, S., Lee, M. J., Lee, D. H., Won, C. H., Kim, S. M., ... & Chung, J. H. (2009). Dietary Aloe Vera Supplementation Improves Facial Wrinkles and Elasticity and It Increases the Type I Procollagen Gene Expression in Human Skin in vivo. Annals of Dermatology, 21(1), 6-11.

- Katiyar, S. K., & Mukhtar, H. (1997). Green tea polyphenol (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate treatment to mouse skin prevents UVB-induced infiltration of leukocytes, depletion of antigen-presenting cells, and oxidative stress. Journal of leukocyte biology, 61(5), 547-556.

- Hsu, S. (2005). Green tea and the skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 52(6), 1049-1059.

White Mulberry (Morus Alba) Extract

Function:

Triethanolamine

Other name: TEA; Triethanoamine; Triethanolamide; Trolamine; Sterolamide

Function: Masking, Fragrance, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Triethanolamine:

Triethanolamine, also known as TEA, is a viscous organic compound that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, pH adjuster, and fragrance ingredient. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a slight ammonia-like odor.

2. Use:

Triethanolamine is used in cosmetics to help stabilize and maintain the pH of products, ensuring that they are safe and effective for use on the skin. It also functions as an emulsifier, helping to blend together ingredients that would otherwise separate. Additionally, triethanolamine can be found in some cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient, providing a pleasant scent to the product.

3. Usage Triethanolamine:

While triethanolamine is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, there are some precautions to keep in mind. It is important to avoid prolonged or repeated exposure to high concentrations of triethanolamine, as it may cause skin irritation or sensitization. It is recommended to use products containing triethanolamine as directed and to discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur. Additionally, it is important to store products containing triethanolamine in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their stability.

4. References:

- Cosmeticsinfo.org. (n.d.). Triethanolamine. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/triethanolamine

- Personal Care Products Council. (2013). Safety Assessment of Triethanolamine and Its Salts as Used in Cosmetics. https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr108.pdf

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21: Triethanolamine. https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=73.2120

CI 14700

Other name: FD&C Red No.4; FD&C Red #4; Food Red 1; Red No.4; Red #4; Ponceau sx

Function: Cosmetic Colorant

1. Definition CI 14700:

CI 14700, also known as Red 4, is a synthetic dye commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products to impart a red or pink color to the product.

2. Use:

CI 14700 is primarily used as a colorant in various cosmetics such as lipsticks, blushes, eyeshadows, and nail polishes. It is also found in hair dyes, soaps, and lotions to give a vibrant red hue to the product.

3. Usage CI 14700:

When using products containing CI 14700, it is important to be aware of any potential allergic reactions or skin sensitivities. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with CI 14700 to ensure there are no adverse reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin or allergies should consult with a dermatologist before using products containing this dye.

4. References:

- "Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final report on the safety assessment of Red 4 (CI 14700)." International Journal of Toxicology 24.Suppl 2 (2005): 1-15.

- "European Commission. CosIng - Cosmetics - GROWTH - European Commission." https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/index.cfm?fuseaction=search.details_v2&id=10050. Accessed 15 Nov. 2021.

- "Personal Care Products Council. Color Additives - Personal Care Products Council." https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/resource/color-additives/. Accessed 15 Nov. 2021.

CI 19140

Other name: Food yellow 4; CI 19140; Tartrazine; FD&C Yellow #5; Yellow 5

Function: Colorant, Cosmetic Colorant

1. Definition CI 19140:

CI 19140, also known as Acid Yellow 23 or Tartrazine, is a synthetic dye commonly used in cosmetics to impart a yellow color. It is water-soluble and belongs to the class of azo dyes.

2. Use:

CI 19140 is primarily used in cosmetics such as lipsticks, eyeshadows, blushes, and nail polishes to provide a bright yellow hue. It can also be found in hair dyes, soaps, and skincare products.

3. Usage CI 19140:

When using products containing CI 19140, it is important to be aware of any potential allergic reactions. Some individuals may be sensitive to synthetic dyes like CI 19140 and may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions upon contact. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this dye, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Cosmeticsinfo.org. (n.d.). Tartrazine. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/tartrazine

- Personal Care Council. (2019). Color Additives Fact Sheet. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/resource/color-additives-fact-sheet/

- FDA. (2018). Color Additives Permitted for Use in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/color-additives-permitted-use-cosmetics

CI 15985

Other name: CI15985; CI 15985; Sunset Yellow FCF; FD&C Yellow #6

Function: Cosmetic Colorant

1. Definition CI 15985:

CI 15985, also known as Yellow 6, is a synthetic dye commonly used in cosmetics to impart a yellow color to various products.

2. Use:

CI 15985 is primarily used as a coloring agent in cosmetics such as lipsticks, eyeshadows, blushes, and nail polishes. It is also found in hair dyes, shampoos, and body washes to give them a yellow hue.

3. Usage CI 15985:

When using products containing CI 15985, it is important to be aware of any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities to the dye. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions when coming into contact with products containing CI 15985. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with CI 15985 to check for any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of CI 15985 (Yellow 6) as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel

- "Color Additives Permitted for Use in Cosmetics" by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration

- "Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist" by Health Canada