Caudalie Caudalie Premier Cru The Cream

1. Definition Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a combination of fatty acids derived from coconut oil and glycerin. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is used in various cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums to provide moisturization and improve the texture of the skin. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and nourished.

3. Usage Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some precautions should be taken. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/caprylic-capric-triglyceride/.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

1. Definition Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate:

Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate is a derivative of olive oil that has been hydrogenated to increase its stability and shelf life. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate is used in a variety of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and serums to provide hydration and improve the texture of the skin. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling moisturized and supple.

3. Usage Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate:

When using products containing Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.

4. References:

- "Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/hydrogenated-ethylhexyl-olivate.

- "Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/hydrogenated-ethylhexyl-olivate.

- "Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate in Cosmetics: Benefits and Uses." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/hydrogenated-ethylhexyl-olivate/.

1. Definition Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables:

Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables are a mixture of compounds derived from olive oil that have been hydrogenated to improve their stability and shelf life. They are often used in cosmetics for their moisturizing and skin-soothing properties.

2. Use:

Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables are commonly used in skincare products such as moisturizers, creams, and lotions due to their ability to hydrate and nourish the skin. They are also known for their anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, making them beneficial for soothing irritated or sensitive skin.

3. Usage Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables:

When using products containing Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Follow the instructions provided on the product packaging for best results, and discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Marzocchi, A., et al. (2017). Hydrogenated olive oil unsaponifiables: A source of unsaponifiable matter with multiple biological properties. Journal of Functional Foods, 35, 441-449.

- Schmitt, M., et al. (2015). Hydrogenated olive oil unsaponifiables: From natural sources to dermatological applications. European Journal of Lipid Science and Technology, 117(1), 1-9.

- Gómez-Caravaca, A. M., et al. (2018). Hydrogenated olive oil unsaponifiables as a potential functional ingredient in food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic applications. Food Chemistry, 261, 282-289.

1. Definition Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil:

Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of grapes. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Grape seed oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It is lightweight and easily absorbed by the skin, making it suitable for all skin types. The oil helps to hydrate the skin, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and protect against environmental damage.

3. Usage Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil:

Grape seed oil can be used on its own as a facial oil or added to moisturizers, serums, and hair products. It can also be used as a carrier oil for essential oils. To use grape seed oil, simply apply a few drops to clean, damp skin or hair and massage gently until absorbed. It can be used daily as part of a skincare routine.

Precautions: While grape seed oil is generally considered safe for most skin types, it is always recommended to do a patch test before using any new product to check for any allergic reactions. People with grape allergies should avoid using grape seed oil. Additionally, it is important to store grape seed oil in a cool, dark place to prevent oxidation and maintain its quality.

4. References:

- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International journal of molecular sciences, 19(1), 70.

- Meier, L., & Stange, R. (2008). The role of essential fatty acids in human health. Journal of pediatric gastroenterology and nutrition, 47, S41-S44.

- Sivakumar, G., & Balamurugan, S. (2019). A review on grape seed oil. Journal of Critical Reviews, 6(1), 1-6.

1. Definition Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil:

Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of the sesame plant. It is rich in essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and vitamins, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and hair care products.

2. Use:

Sesame Seed Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, nourishing, and anti-inflammatory properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, improve skin elasticity, and protect against environmental damage. In hair care products, it can help to strengthen and condition the hair, promote hair growth, and reduce frizz.

3. Usage Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil:

Sesame Seed Oil can be used in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, hair oils, and massage oils. It can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or mixed with other ingredients to create customized formulations. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on a larger area to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Saeedi M, Morteza-Semnani K, Ghoreishi MR. The treatment of atopic dermatitis with licorice gel. Journal of Dermatological Treatment. 2003;14(3):153-157.

- Ahmad Z. The uses and properties of almond oil. Complementary Therapies in Clinical Practice. 2010;16(1):10-12.

- Parveen A, Parveen B, Parveen R, Ahmad S. Medicinal and cosmetic uses of sesame: A review. International Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemical Research. 2014;6(3):677-681.

1. Definition Hydrogenated Apricot Kernel Oil:

Hydrogenated Apricot Kernel Oil is a derivative of apricot kernel oil that has undergone a hydrogenation process, resulting in a more stable and solid form. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its emollient and moisturizing properties.

2. Use:

Hydrogenated Apricot Kernel Oil is used in a variety of cosmetic products, including lotions, creams, lip balms, and hair care products. It is known for its ability to hydrate and soften the skin, making it a popular ingredient in skincare formulations. Additionally, it helps to improve the texture of products, providing a smooth and luxurious feel.

3. Usage Hydrogenated Apricot Kernel Oil:

When using products containing Hydrogenated Apricot Kernel Oil, it is important to be aware of any potential allergies or sensitivities to apricot kernel oil. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure compatibility with your skin. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is best to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper usage and storage to maintain the efficacy of the product.

4. References:

- "Hydrogenated Apricot Kernel Oil" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2019.

- "Apricot Kernel Oil: Properties and Uses in Cosmetics" by International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2017.

- "Formulation and Evaluation of Herbal Lip Balm Containing Hydrogenated Apricot Kernel Oil" by Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2020.

1. Definition Ethylhexyl Palmitate:

Ethylhexyl Palmitate is a synthetic ester derived from palm oil and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin-conditioning agent and emollient. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a light, non-greasy texture.

2. Use:

Ethylhexyl Palmitate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as moisturizers, sunscreens, foundations, and lipsticks. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, making it smooth and easy to apply. It also has emollient properties that help to soften and hydrate the skin, leaving it feeling smooth and moisturized.

3. Usage Ethylhexyl Palmitate:

When using products containing Ethylhexyl Palmitate, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience irritation or breakouts when using products with this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is advisable to consult with a dermatologist if you have sensitive skin or a history of skin reactions to certain ingredients.

4. References:

- Ethylhexyl Palmitate. (n.d.). Cosmetics Info. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexyl-palmitate

- Guo, L., & Lai, W. (2012). Ethylhexyl Palmitate. In Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (pp. 193-200). CRC Press.

- Ethylhexyl Palmitate. (n.d.). The Derm Review. https://thedermreview.com/ethylhexyl-palmitate/

1. Definition Peg 20 Stearate:

Peg 20 Stearate is a polyethylene glycol derivative of stearic acid, commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant. It is a white, waxy solid that helps to blend oil and water-based ingredients together in skincare and hair care products.

2. Use:

Peg 20 Stearate is used in a variety of cosmetic formulations such as creams, lotions, and serums. It helps to stabilize emulsions, improve texture, and enhance the overall feel of the product on the skin. Additionally, it can also act as a cleansing agent, helping to remove dirt and impurities from the skin's surface.

3. Usage Peg 20 Stearate:

When using products containing Peg 20 Stearate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if irritation occurs, discontinue use and consult a dermatologist.

4. References:

- "PEG-20 Stearate" by Cosmetics Info, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/peg-20-stearate

- "Polyethylene Glycols (PEGs)" by Environmental Working Group, https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredients/706623-polyethylene-glycols-pegs/

- "PEG-20 Stearate" by Truth in Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/peg-20-stearate

1. Definition C12 15 Alkyl Benzoate:

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is an ester derived from benzoic acid and a mixture of alcohols with carbon chain lengths ranging from 12 to 15. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, skin conditioning agent, and solvent.

2. Use:

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is utilized in various cosmetic formulations such as sunscreens, moisturizers, and makeup products. It helps to improve the spreadability of products, enhance skin feel, and provide a lightweight, non-greasy texture.

3. Usage C12 15 Alkyl Benzoate:

When using products containing C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines and apply as directed on the product packaging. It is generally considered safe for topical application, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before widespread use to ensure compatibility.

Precautions: While C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. If any adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional. It is recommended to avoid contact with eyes and mucous membranes.

4. References:

- "C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate" in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 14th Edition.

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2003). Final report on the safety assessment of C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). CIR Expert Panel Reaffirms Safety of C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate in Cosmetics.

1. Definition Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract:

Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract is a botanical extract derived from the roots of the Imperata Cylindrica plant, also known as cogongrass or blady grass. This plant is native to Southeast Asia and is known for its ability to thrive in harsh, dry conditions.

2. Use:

Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its hydrating and moisturizing properties. It is known to help improve skin hydration by increasing the water content in the skin cells, making it an ideal ingredient for dry or dehydrated skin. Additionally, it is believed to have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, which can help soothe and protect the skin from environmental stressors.

3. Usage Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract:

Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract is typically found in moisturizers, serums, and masks, where it is used to provide long-lasting hydration and improve the overall health and appearance of the skin. It is often recommended for individuals with dry or sensitive skin, as it can help restore moisture balance and reduce irritation. When using products containing Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Kim, S., Lee, S., & Kim, Y. (2014). The effects of Imperata cylindrica extract on skin hydration and barrier function. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 13(2), 119-123.

- Lee, J., Kim, S., & Kim, Y. (2016). Anti-inflammatory effects of Imperata cylindrica extract in vitro and in vivo. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 38(6), 594-599.

- Lim, H., & Kim, Y. (2018). Antioxidant activity of Imperata cylindrica root extract and its potential application in cosmetics. Journal of Applied Cosmetology, 36(1), 23-29.

1. Definition Palmitoyl Grape Seed Extract:

Palmitoyl Grape Seed Extract is a cosmetic ingredient derived from grape seeds that has been modified with palmitic acid. It is known for its antioxidant properties and ability to protect the skin from environmental stressors.

2. Use:

Palmitoyl Grape Seed Extract is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging benefits. It helps to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of wrinkles, and promote a more youthful complexion. Additionally, it can help to brighten the skin and even out skin tone.

3. Usage Palmitoyl Grape Seed Extract:

Palmitoyl Grape Seed Extract can be found in various skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied to the skin both in the morning and evening. It is important to patch test products containing Palmitoyl Grape Seed Extract before full application to ensure no adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Saliou, C., Rimbach, G., Moini, H., McLaughlin, L., Hosseini, S., Lee, J., ... & Packer, L. (2001). Solar ultraviolet-induced erythema in human skin and nuclear factor-kappa-B-dependent gene expression in keratinocytes are modulated by a French maritime pine bark extract. Free Radical Biology and Medicine, 30(2), 154-160.

- Bagchi, D., Garg, A., Krohn, R. L., Bagchi, M., Bagchi, D. J., Balmoori, J., ... & Stohs, S. J. (1998). Protective effects of grape seed proanthocyanidins and selected antioxidants against TPA-induced hepatic and brain lipid peroxidation and DNA fragmentation, and peritoneal macrophage activation in mice. General Pharmacology: The Vascular System, 30(5), 771-776.

- Park, Y. S., Kim, J. S., Kang, M. H., & Kang, S. N. (2008). Grape seed extract 1. Improving the antioxidant activity of grape seed extract by bioprocess. Journal of the Science of Food and Agriculture, 88(3), 384-391.

1. Definition Dimethicone:

Dimethicone is a type of silicone oil that is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and emollient. It is a clear, odorless, and non-toxic substance that helps to improve the texture and feel of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Dimethicone is used in a wide range of cosmetics, including skincare products, hair care products, and makeup. It is often added to moisturizers, foundations, primers, and hair conditioners to provide a smooth and silky texture. Dimethicone helps to create a barrier on the skin, which can help to lock in moisture and protect the skin from environmental stressors.

3. Usage Dimethicone:

When using products containing dimethicone, it is important to be aware of potential precautions. While dimethicone is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing dimethicone, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, some people may find that dimethicone can clog pores and exacerbate acne, so it is important to monitor your skin for any changes when using products with this ingredient.

4. References:

- Lanigan, R. S., & Yamarik, T. A. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of dimethicone, dimethiconol, and related ingredients. International journal of toxicology, 21(1), 7-41.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic vehicle efficacy. Dermatologic therapy, 23(4), 314-317.

- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of dimethicone crosspolymers as used in cosmetics. International journal of toxicology, 35(1_suppl), 5S-24S.

1. Definition Tribehenin:

Tribehenin is a natural lipid derived from the seeds of the plant, Shorea Stenoptera. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and thickening agent due to its ability to improve the texture and consistency of skincare products.

2. Use:

Tribehenin is often included in cosmetic formulations such as lipsticks, lip balms, and moisturizers to provide hydration and nourishment to the skin. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, making it easier to apply the product evenly onto the skin.

3. Usage Tribehenin:

When using products containing Tribehenin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately.

4. References:

- Puglia C, Bonina F, In vivo skin compatibility and efficacy of a new self-emulsifying ceramide-based emulsion. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2005;27(2):99-109.

- Kaur CD, Saraf S. In vitro sun protection factor determination of herbal oils used in cosmetics. Pharmacognosy Research. 2010;2(1):22-25.

- Lupo MP. Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic Therapy. 2007;20(5):343-349.

1. Definition Carbomer:

Carbomer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and stabilizer. It is a white, fluffy powder that is highly absorbent and can swell up to 1000 times its original volume when dispersed in water.

2. Use:

Carbomer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, gels, and serums. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the stability of emulsions, and enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Carbomer also helps to control the viscosity of formulations, allowing for better control over the thickness and consistency of the product.

3. Usage Carbomer:

When using products containing Carbomer, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. Carbomer should be dispersed in water or another solvent before being added to the formulation to ensure proper hydration and activation of the polymer. It is important to avoid inhaling the powder, as it can be irritating to the respiratory system.

4. References:

- Sharma, A., & Jain, A. (2012). Carbomers: A review. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 3(3), 805-814.

- Liao, Y., & Wang, J. (2017). Carbomer: A versatile polymer in pharmaceutical applications. Polymer Chemistry, 8(3), 355-366.

- Patel, D. (2015). Carbomer in pharmaceuticals: A review. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, 4(2), 121-133.

1. Definition Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is a skin conditioning agent and emollient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from caprylic acid, which is found in coconut and palm oils.

2. Use:

Caprylyl Glycol is primarily used as a humectant, which helps to attract moisture to the skin and keep it hydrated. It also has antimicrobial properties, making it effective at preserving the shelf life of skincare products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, Caprylyl Glycol can enhance the texture of products, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft.

3. Usage Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is typically found in moisturizers, cleansers, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Caprylyl Glycol to their entire face. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the effectiveness and safety of the product.

4. References:

- Monkare J, Maczka W, Matuszak Ż, et al. Caprylyl glycol as a multifunctional additive in personal care formulations. Cosmetics. 2020;7(1):17. doi:10.3390/cosmetics7010017

- Lodeiro C, Margus T, Pinto S, et al. Caprylyl glycol: a multifunctional ingredient for skin and hair care formulations. SOFW J. 2017;143(11):42-48.

- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: moisturizers. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(9):s27-s30.

1. Definition Fragrance:

Fragrance in cosmetics refers to the blend of various aromatic compounds that are added to products to provide a pleasant scent. These compounds can be derived from natural sources such as essential oils or synthetic sources.

2. Use:

Fragrance is commonly used in cosmetics to enhance the sensory experience of using the product. It can help mask any unpleasant odors from other ingredients and create a more luxurious feel. Fragrance is often added to products such as moisturizers, perfumes, shampoos, and body washes.

3. Usage Fragrance:

When using cosmetics containing fragrance, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to certain fragrances. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and storage of the product to ensure the fragrance remains stable and effective.

4. References:

- Steinemann, A. (2019). Fragranced consumer products: exposures and effects from emissions. Air Quality, Atmosphere & Health, 12(6), 643-645.

- Lachenmeier, D. W., & Haltner, E. (2019). Fragrance allergens in household cleaning products. Environmental Science and Pollution Research, 26(15), 15145-15147.

- Basketter, D. A., & Angelini, G. (2019). Fragrance allergens in fine fragrances and cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis, 80(3), 145-147.

1. Definition Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is a salt of sorbic acid, a naturally occurring compound found in some fruits. It is commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics to prevent the growth of mold, yeast, and bacteria, extending the shelf life of the product.

2. Use:

Potassium Sorbate is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent microbial contamination. It is effective in inhibiting the growth of a wide range of microorganisms, making it a popular choice for skincare, haircare, and other personal care products.

3. Usage Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is typically added to the formulation of cosmetics at a concentration of 0.1-0.5% to effectively preserve the product. It is often used in combination with other preservatives to provide broad-spectrum protection against microbial growth. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by the supplier to ensure the safety and efficacy of the preservative.

4. References:

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate: Uses, Safety, and More.” Healthline, www.healthline.com/health/potassium-sorbate.

1. Definition Palmitoyl Grapevine Shoot Extract:

Palmitoyl Grapevine Shoot Extract is a skincare ingredient derived from grapevine shoots. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and polyphenols that help protect the skin from environmental damage and promote a youthful complexion.

2. Use:

Palmitoyl Grapevine Shoot Extract is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties. It helps to improve skin firmness, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more radiant complexion. Additionally, it has soothing and hydrating properties that can help calm irritated skin and improve overall skin health.

3. Usage Palmitoyl Grapevine Shoot Extract:

Palmitoyl Grapevine Shoot Extract is typically found in serums, creams, and masks designed to target signs of aging and improve skin texture. It is best applied to clean, dry skin after cleansing and toning. Gently massage the product into the skin until fully absorbed. It is recommended to follow up with a moisturizer and sunscreen during the day to protect the skin from further damage.

4. References:

- Bonté F, Girard D. The Biological Properties of Palmitoyl Grapevine Shoot Extract for Cosmetic Applications. Cosmetics. 2018;5(4):58. doi:10.3390/cosmetics5040058

- Park YJ, Kim JH, Kim YJ, Lee SK. Inhibitory effects of grapevine shoot extract on UVB-induced melanogenesis in HRM-2 hairless mice. Biomed Dermatol. 2019;3:11. doi:10.1186/s41702-019-0042-9

- Działo M, Mierziak J, Korzun U, Preisner M, Szopa J, Kulma A. The Potential of Plant Phenolics in Prevention and Therapy of Skin Disorders. Int J Mol Sci. 2016;17(2):160. doi:10.3390/ijms17020160

1. Definition Tocopherol:

Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Tocopherol:

Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.

1. Definition Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide:

Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide is a natural ingredient derived from the seeds of the Cassia Angustifolia plant, also known as Indian Senna. It is a polysaccharide, which is a type of carbohydrate that is made up of multiple sugar molecules linked together.

2. Use:

Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide is commonly used in cosmetics for its hydrating and skin-soothing properties. It is known to help improve the skin's moisture levels, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and other skincare products. Additionally, it has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, making it beneficial for calming and protecting the skin.

3. Usage Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide:

Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide can be found in various skincare products, including creams, lotions, and masks. It is typically used as a humectant, helping to attract and retain moisture in the skin. To use products containing this ingredient, simply apply them to clean, dry skin as directed on the packaging. It is generally safe for most skin types, but as with any new skincare product, it is recommended to perform a patch test before regular use to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- S. G. Kakade, S. S. Sathe, and W. E. R. C. Fahey, "Composition of Cassia Seed Polysaccharide," Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, vol. 25, no. 1, pp. 116-123, 1977.

- K. R. Kirtikar and B. D. Basu, "Indian Medicinal Plants," International Book Distributors, Dehradun, India, 2nd edition, 1984.

- A. Sharma, R. K. Sharma, and S. K. Sharma, "Pharmacological Properties of Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide," International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, vol. 6, no. 3, pp. 876-881, 2015.

1. Definition Lecithin:

Lecithin is a naturally occurring fatty substance that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and emulsifier. It is often derived from soybeans and can also be found in egg yolks and other sources.

2. Use:

Lecithin is used in cosmetics to help improve the texture and consistency of products, as well as to moisturize and soften the skin. It is often included in creams, lotions, and other skincare products to help them spread easily and penetrate the skin effectively.

3. Usage Lecithin:

When using products containing lecithin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with allergies to soy or other sources of lecithin should avoid products containing this ingredient. It is also recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Magdassi, S., & Garti, N. (1999). Lecithin-based emulsions. Current Opinion in Colloid & Interface Science, 4(5), 311-316.

- Barauskas, J., & Nylander, T. (2005). Lecithin-based microemulsions. Langmuir, 21(2), 597-601.

- Komaiko, J. S., & McClements, D. J. (2016). Low-energy formation of edible nanoemulsions: Factors influencing droplet size produced by emulsion phase inversion. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, 434, 8-20.

1. Definition Ceramide 2:

Ceramide 2 is a type of lipid molecule that is naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, known as the stratum corneum. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin's barrier function, helping to retain moisture and protect against environmental aggressors.

2. Use:

Ceramide 2 is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its moisturizing and skin-replenishing properties. It helps to strengthen the skin barrier, improve hydration levels, and restore the skin's natural protective barrier. This can result in smoother, softer, and more supple skin.

3. Usage Ceramide 2:

Ceramide 2 is typically incorporated into various skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and dry skin. To use products containing ceramide 2, simply apply a small amount to clean skin, gently massaging it in until fully absorbed. It can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine.

4. References:

- Choi MJ, Maibach HI. Role of ceramides in barrier function of healthy and diseased skin. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(4):215-223. doi:10.2165/00128071-200506040-00001

- Park JH, Lee JH, Park EK, et al. A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study of the effect of wheat extract and ceramide containing lotion on improving striae gravidarum. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2012;34(3):233-238. doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00694.x

- Joo KM, Park KY, Kim BJ, Kim MN. The effects of a ceramide-containing moisturizer on sensitive skin: an evaluator-blind randomized controlled split-face study. Ann Dermatol. 2014;26(4):477-486. doi:10.5021/ad.2014.26.4.477

1. Definition Silica Dimethyl Silylate:

Silica Dimethyl Silylate is a type of silicone-based ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and emollient. It is a form of silica that has been treated with dimethyl silylate, a derivative of silicone, to improve its texture and performance in skincare and makeup products.

2. Use:

Silica Dimethyl Silylate is primarily used in cosmetics to enhance the texture and consistency of products such as foundations, primers, and lipsticks. Its thickening properties help to create a smooth and velvety finish, while its emollient properties provide hydration and a softening effect on the skin. Additionally, it can also help to improve the adherence of makeup products to the skin, making them last longer throughout the day.

3. Usage Silica Dimethyl Silylate:

When using products containing Silica Dimethyl Silylate, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to silicone-based ingredients. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient on their face. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is recommended to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Silica Dimethyl Silylate. (n.d.). Cosmeticsinfo.org. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/silica-dimethyl-silylate

- Lode, O., & Maibach, H. I. (2019). Silicone in cosmetics: A review. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 18(5), 1223-1231. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.13049

- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., Marks Jr, J. G., Shank, R. C., Slaga, T. J., Snyder, P. W., & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of silica and related ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(2S), 46S-102S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581816641573

1. Definition Adenosine:

Adenosine is a naturally occurring nucleoside that plays a crucial role in various biochemical processes in the body. In cosmetics, adenosine is used for its anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and skin-soothing properties.

2. Use:

Adenosine is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, reduce the signs of aging, and promote skin elasticity. It also helps to calm and soothe irritated skin, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.

3. Usage Adenosine:

Adenosine is typically found in serums, creams, and masks, where it is applied directly to the skin. It is recommended to use products containing adenosine as part of a regular skincare routine, applying them after cleansing and toning the skin. It is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- Lee, S. H., & Lee, J. H. (2018). Topical adenosine for hair loss: A promising alternative to minoxidil. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(3), 457-461.

- Kim, D. S., et al. (2013). Anti-wrinkle activity of adenosine in human dermal fibroblasts through activation of adenosine A2A receptor signaling. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 133(1), 282-291.

- Baek, J. H., et al. (2016). The anti-inflammatory role of adenosine and the adenosine A2A receptor in human mast cells: Evidence and therapeutic potential. Journal of Immunology, 196(10), 4002-4011.

1. Definition Polysorbate 20:

Polysorbate 20 is a type of nonionic surfactant that is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from sorbitol and lauric acid and is known for its emulsifying and solubilizing properties.

2. Use:

Polysorbate 20 is primarily used as an emulsifier in cosmetics to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together. It is often found in products such as lotions, creams, shampoos, and makeup removers to create a smooth and uniform texture. Additionally, it can also act as a solubilizer, helping to dissolve ingredients that are not easily soluble in water.

3. Usage Polysorbate 20:

When using products containing polysorbate 20, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with polysorbate 20 to determine if any adverse reactions occur. Additionally, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective use.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). Polysorbate 20. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polysorbate-20

- Personal Care Council. (2019). Polysorbate 20. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-dictionary/ingredient/2477

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2009). Polysorbate 20. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Polysorbate-20

1. Definition Sodium Hydroxide:

Sodium Hydroxide, also known as lye or caustic soda, is a highly alkaline compound that is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, emulsifier, and cleansing agent.

2. Use:

Sodium Hydroxide is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, ensuring that the product is within the desired range for optimal skin compatibility. It is also used as an emulsifier to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together, creating stable and uniform products. Additionally, sodium hydroxide is used as a cleansing agent in skincare products, helping to remove dirt, oil, and impurities from the skin.

3. Usage Sodium Hydroxide:

When using products containing sodium hydroxide, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. Avoid direct contact with the eyes, as it can cause irritation or burns. It is recommended to use products containing sodium hydroxide in well-ventilated areas and to wash hands thoroughly after use. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and seek medical advice.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2013). Final report on the safety assessment of sodium hydroxide. International Journal of Toxicology, 32(1), 59S-80S.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2020). Sodium Hydroxide. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/sodium-hydroxide/

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). Sodium Hydroxide. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Sodium-hydroxide

1. Definition Pentylene Glycol:

Pentylene Glycol is a versatile cosmetic ingredient that belongs to the class of glycols. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a slightly sweet odor. Pentylene Glycol is commonly used as a solvent, humectant, and preservative in various skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Pentylene Glycol is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the texture and consistency of formulations. It helps to dissolve other ingredients, such as active compounds and fragrances, and can also enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Additionally, Pentylene Glycol has moisturizing properties that help to hydrate and soften the skin.

3. Usage Pentylene Glycol:

Pentylene Glycol is typically found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, cleansers, and masks. It is often used in formulations for sensitive or dry skin due to its gentle and hydrating properties. When using products containing Pentylene Glycol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and conduct a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin to avoid any potential irritation or allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Ishikawa, A., Yamanaka, K., Sakata, K., & Lida, T. (2017). Effects of pentylene glycol on skin hydration. Journal of Dermatological Science, 86(2), e36.

- Lode, O., & Wohlrab, J. (2015). Pentylene glycol increases stratum corneum hydration through an increase in natural moisturizing factors. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 28(1), 47-55.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, S. H., & Han, S. H. (2019). Safety evaluation of pentylene glycol in cosmetic products. Journal of Toxicology and Environmental Health, Part B, 22(2), 83-91.

1. Definition Sodium Hyaluronate:

Sodium Hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring substance in the human body that is known for its ability to retain moisture and improve skin hydration.

2. Use:

Sodium Hyaluronate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and skin-plumping properties. It is a popular ingredient in anti-aging products due to its ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by hydrating the skin and promoting collagen production.

3. Usage Sodium Hyaluronate:

When using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either in the form of a serum, cream, or mask. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

Precautions: While Sodium Hyaluronate is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, it is always recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions. Additionally, it is important to avoid using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate if you are allergic to hyaluronic acid or any other ingredients in the product.

4. References:

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

- Pavicic, T., Gauglitz, G. G., Lersch, P., Schwach-Abdellaoui, K., Malle, B., & Korting, H. C. (2011). Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD, 10(9), 990-1000.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

1. Definition Acrylates/ C10 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer:

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, stabilizer, and emulsifier. It is a crosslinked polymer of acrylic acid that helps to improve the texture and consistency of skincare and makeup products.

2. Use:

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, gels, and serums. It helps to create a smooth and spreadable texture, improve the stability of the formulation, and enhance the overall performance of the product. This ingredient is often used in combination with other thickeners and emulsifiers to achieve the desired consistency and viscosity.

3. Usage Acrylates/ C10 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer:

When using products containing Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. This ingredient is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to it. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, it is recommended to discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/acrylatesc10-30-alkyl-acrylate-crosspolymer.

- "Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/acrylates-c10-30-alkyl-acrylate-crosspolymer.

- "Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/acrylates-c10-30-alkyl-acrylate-crosspolymer/.

1. Definition Palmitoyl Oligopeptide:

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide is a synthetic peptide consisting of a fatty acid (palmitic acid) attached to an oligopeptide chain. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties.

2. Use:

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide is known for its ability to stimulate collagen production in the skin, helping to improve skin firmness and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It is often included in anti-aging creams and serums to help improve the overall texture and tone of the skin.

3. Usage Palmitoyl Oligopeptide:

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide should be used as directed by the manufacturer, typically applied to clean, dry skin once or twice daily. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and to avoid using it in combination with other active ingredients that may cause irritation or sensitivity. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to ensure compatibility.

4. References:

- Kim JH, Park SG, Kim JH. Palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 effects on the proteolytic activities of MMP-1, MMP-2, and MMP-9 in UV-irradiated human fibroblasts. J Biochem Mol Biol. 2007;40(6):1062-1067.

- Lupo MP. Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatol Surg. 2005;31(7 Pt 2):832-836; discussion 836.

- Schagen SK. Topical peptide treatments with effective anti-aging results. Cosmetics. 2017;4(2):16.

1. Definition Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 7:

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 7, also known as Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, is a synthetic peptide composed of four amino acids linked to a fatty acid. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties.

2. Use:

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 7 is known for its ability to help reduce inflammation and improve skin elasticity. It works by stimulating the production of collagen and elastin in the skin, which can help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. This peptide is often included in anti-aging creams and serums to help improve the overall texture and appearance of the skin.

3. Usage Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 7:

When using skincare products containing Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 7, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, these products are applied to clean, dry skin and massaged in gently until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use these products consistently for best results, as the effects of the peptide may take time to become noticeable. It is also important to use sunscreen daily when using products containing Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 7, as it can increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun.

4. References:

- Srinivas, R., & Srinivas, G. (2018). Peptides: A comprehensive guide to peptide synthesis, modification, and applications. CRC Press.

- Lintner, K., & Peschard, O. (2012). Biologically active peptides: from a laboratory bench curiosity to a functional skin care product. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 34(4), 299-306.

- Kim, S. H., & Kim, K. H. (2014). Efficacy and safety of Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 in the treatment of facial wrinkles. Journal of Dermatological Science, 76(1), 8-14.

1. Definition Geraniol:

Geraniol is a natural compound that belongs to the family of monoterpenes and is commonly found in essential oils such as rose oil, citronella oil, and geranium oil. It has a sweet, floral scent and is often used in the fragrance industry.

2. Use:

Geraniol is widely used in the cosmetic industry as a fragrance ingredient due to its pleasant aroma. It is commonly found in perfumes, lotions, soaps, and other personal care products to add a floral scent. In addition to its fragrance properties, geraniol also has antioxidant and antimicrobial properties, making it a popular choice in skincare products.

3. Usage Geraniol:

When using products containing geraniol, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitivities and allergies. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to high concentrations of geraniol. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with geraniol, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, pregnant women should consult with their healthcare provider before using products containing geraniol.

4. References:

- Burdock, G. A. (2010). Safety assessment of Geraniol as a food ingredient. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 48(2), 29-34.

- Rastogi, S. C., & Heydorn, S. (2001). Fragrance allergens in commercial products. Contact Dermatitis, 45(5), 221-226.

- Menz, J., & Kistler, A. (2015). Fragrance allergens in cosmetics – a review. Journal of the German Society of Dermatology, 13(6), 625-632.

1. Definition Linalool:

Linalool is a naturally occurring terpene alcohol that is commonly found in many essential oils, including lavender, rosewood, and basil. It is known for its pleasant floral aroma and is often used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Linalool is primarily used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its pleasant scent. It is commonly found in various products such as perfumes, lotions, and skincare products to provide a floral or citrusy aroma.

3. Usage Linalool:

When using cosmetics containing linalool, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitization and irritation. Some individuals may be allergic to linalool, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient. It is also important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to avoid any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Andersen, F. A. (2008). Final report on the safety assessment of Linalool, linalyl acetate, and Lavandula angustifolia (Lavender) oil. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(1), 1-28.

- Opdyke, D. L. (1976). Monographs on fragrance raw materials. Food and Cosmetics Toxicology, 14(5), 479-480.

- Reifenrath, W. G., & Van Beek, T. A. (2013). Linalool and linalool rich essential oils. In Natural Products (pp. 1541-1587). Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg.

1. Definition Citronellol:

Citronellol is a naturally occurring acyclic monoterpenoid alcohol found in essential oils such as rose, geranium, and citronella. It is known for its pleasant floral aroma and is commonly used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Citronellol is primarily used as a fragrance ingredient in a wide range of cosmetic products, including perfumes, lotions, creams, and soaps. Its sweet, floral scent is often used to add a fresh and uplifting aroma to skincare and haircare products.

3. Usage Citronellol:

Citronellol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it can cause skin irritation in some individuals, especially those with sensitive skin. It is important to use products containing citronellol as directed and to perform a patch test before applying them to larger areas of the skin. Additionally, products containing citronellol should be stored in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to prevent degradation of the ingredient.

4. References:

- Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). (2013). Opinion on citronellol. European Commission.

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2008). Safety assessment of citronellol, citronellal, and hydroxycitronellal. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(1), 21-44.

- Fragrance Materials Association. (2019). Citronellol safety assessment. FMA.