Dermaceutic Activ Retinol 1% - Ingredient Explanation
Water
Other Names: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua
Function: Solvent
1. Definition Water:
Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.
2. Use:
Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.
3. Usage Water:
When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.
- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.
- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.
Diglycerin
Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Humectant
1. Definition Diglycerin:
Diglycerin is a type of glycerin that is derived from vegetable oils and is commonly used in cosmetic products as a humectant and emollient. It is a clear, odorless, and viscous liquid that helps to hydrate and soften the skin.
2. Use:
Diglycerin is used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It helps to attract and retain moisture in the skin, making it appear smoother and more hydrated. Diglycerin is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and lotions.
3. Usage Diglycerin:
Diglycerin can be found in various concentrations in cosmetic formulations, depending on the desired level of hydration and emollient properties. It is typically safe for use on all skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing diglycerin to ensure there are no adverse reactions.
Precautions: While diglycerin is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience allergic reactions or skin irritation. It is always recommended to read the ingredient list of products carefully and consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns about using diglycerin-containing products.
4. References:
- Sharma, A., Bhatia, A., & Singh, S. (2019). A comprehensive review on natural glycerin and its applications. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 10(5), 2117-2125.
- Draelos, Z. D. (2016). Cosmeceuticals: Procedures in Cosmetic Dermatology Series. Elsevier Health Sciences.
- Kadam, V. J., & Jadhav, S. M. (2018). Handbook of industrial chemistry: Organic chemicals. Springer.
Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Other Names: cremophor rh-40
Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Emulsifying, Surfactant
1. Definition Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil:
Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is a polyethylene glycol derivative of hydrogenated castor oil. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, surfactant, and solubilizer.
2. Use:
Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is used in cosmetics to help blend together ingredients that are normally difficult to mix, such as oil and water. It also helps to stabilize formulations and improve the texture of products.
3. Usage Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil:
Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-10% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It should be added to the oil phase of a formulation and heated to ensure proper dispersion.
Precautions: While Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing this ingredient, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, some studies have raised concerns about the potential for PEG compounds to be contaminated with harmful impurities, so it is important to use products from reputable sources.
4. References:
- "PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/peg-40-hydrogenated-castor-oil.
- "PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/peg-40-hydrogenated-castor-oil.
- "PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil." Paula's Choice Skincare, www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/surfactants/peg-40-hydrogenated-castor-oil.
Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene
Other Names: SolaStay S1
Function: Uv Absorber
1. Definition Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene:
Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene is a chemical compound used in sunscreens and other cosmetic products as a photostabilizer. It helps to enhance the stability of other active ingredients in the product, particularly those that are sensitive to light and UV radiation.
2. Use:
Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene is commonly used in sunscreen formulations to provide broad-spectrum UV protection. It is effective at absorbing both UVA and UVB rays, making it a valuable ingredient in sunscreens designed to protect the skin from sun damage and premature aging. Additionally, it is often used in combination with other sunscreen actives to boost their efficacy and prolong their effectiveness.
3. Usage Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene:
When using products containing Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Apply sunscreen generously and evenly to all exposed skin before going outdoors, and reapply as needed, especially after swimming or sweating. It is also recommended to use other sun protection measures, such as wearing protective clothing and seeking shade during peak sun hours, in conjunction with sunscreen for optimal sun protection.
4. References:
- Lutz, L. (2013). Sunscreens: Regulations and commercial development. CRC Press.
- Wang, S. Q., & Lim, H. W. (2007). Sunscreen application and reapplication: a review. J Am Acad Dermatol, 57(4), 589-598.
- Matta, M. K., Florian, J., Zusterzeel, R., Pilli, N. R., Patel, V., Volpe, D. A., ... & Nair, J. (2019). Effect of sunscreen application under maximal use conditions on plasma concentration of sunscreen active ingredients: A randomized clinical trial. JAMA, 321(21), 2082-2091.
Panthenol
Other Names: Provitamin B5; Panthenol; D-Panthenol; DL-Panthenol; Provitamin B
Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent
1. Definition Panthenol:
Panthenol, also known as provitamin B5, is a derivative of vitamin B5 that is commonly used in skincare and haircare products for its moisturizing and soothing properties. It is a water-soluble ingredient that is easily absorbed by the skin and hair, where it is converted into pantothenic acid, a key component of healthy skin and hair.
2. Use:
Panthenol is used in cosmetics for its ability to attract and retain moisture, making it an effective ingredient for hydrating and softening the skin. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for soothing irritated or sensitive skin. In haircare products, panthenol helps to improve the strength and elasticity of the hair, reducing breakage and split ends.
3. Usage Panthenol:
Panthenol can be found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, shampoos, conditioners, and styling products. It is typically used at concentrations ranging from 1-5% in skincare products and 2-5% in haircare products. Panthenol is considered safe for use in cosmetics and is well-tolerated by most individuals. However, as with any new skincare or haircare product, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing panthenol to check for any potential allergic reactions.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.
- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw Hill Professional.
- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of panthenol, pantothenic acid, and related salts and esters as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(2), 42S-61S.
Retinol
Other Names: Vitamin A1
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Retinol:
Retinol is a form of vitamin A that is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties. It is a potent ingredient that can help improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more youthful complexion.
2. Use:
Retinol is commonly used in anti-aging skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is known for its ability to increase cell turnover, stimulate collagen production, and improve skin tone and texture. Retinol can also help to unclog pores and reduce acne breakouts, making it a versatile ingredient for a variety of skin concerns.
3. Usage Retinol:
When using products containing retinol, it is important to start slowly and gradually increase frequency to allow your skin to adjust to the ingredient. Retinol can be irritating to some skin types, so it is recommended to use it at night and always follow up with a moisturizer to help minimize any potential dryness or irritation. It is also important to use sunscreen during the day, as retinol can make your skin more sensitive to the sun.
4. References:
- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348.
- Kong, R., Cui, Y., Fisher, G. J., & Wang, X. (2016). The role of retinoids in the treatment of photoaging. Molecules, 21(8), 100.
- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348.
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
Other Names: VC-IP; Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate; Vitamin C Tetraisopalmitate
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antioxidant
1. Definition Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate:
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is a stable, oil-soluble derivative of Vitamin C that is commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties and ability to brighten the skin.
2. Use:
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is used in cosmetics and skincare products to help protect the skin from free radicals, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and improve overall skin tone and texture. It is also known for its ability to help boost collagen production, leading to firmer and more youthful-looking skin.
3. Usage Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate:
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is typically found in serums, creams, and lotions, where it can be applied directly to the skin. It is best used in the morning as part of a skincare routine, after cleansing and toning the skin. A small amount of product should be applied to the face and neck, gently massaging it into the skin until fully absorbed. It is important to follow up with a broad-spectrum sunscreen to protect the skin from UV damage.
4. References:
- Choi, S. Y., Lee, S. N., Lee, M. J., Kim, Y. C., & Choe, Y. B. (2009). Anti-inflammatory and skin-morphology-improving effects of topical application of a preparation containing asiaticoside, madecassoside, and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate in hairless mice. Annals of dermatology, 21(1), 70-77.
- Lin, F. H., Lin, J. Y., Gupta, R. D., Tournas, J. A., Burch, J. A., Selim, M. A., ... & Fisher, G. J. (2005). Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skin. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 125(4), 826-832.
- Telang, P. S. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian dermatology online journal, 4(2), 143.
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Other Names: Ascorbyl Pamitate
Function: Masking, Antioxidant
1. Definition Ascorbyl Palmitate:
Ascorbyl Palmitate is a synthetic compound derived from ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) and palmitic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties and ability to boost collagen production.
2. Use:
Ascorbyl Palmitate is used in skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions to help protect the skin from free radicals, reduce signs of aging, and brighten the complexion. It is often included in formulations targeting hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and dullness.
3. Usage Ascorbyl Palmitate:
Ascorbyl Palmitate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.3% to 3%. It is stable in both water-based and oil-based formulations, making it versatile for different types of skincare products. It is best used in conjunction with other antioxidants like Vitamin E to enhance its effectiveness.
Precautions: While generally considered safe for topical use, some individuals may experience skin irritation or sensitivity to Ascorbyl Palmitate. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is important to store products with Ascorbyl Palmitate in a cool, dark place to prevent degradation and maintain potency.
4. References:
- Telang, P. S. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian dermatology online journal, 4(2), 143–146.
- Pullar, J. M., Carr, A. C., & Vissers, M. C. M. (2017). The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients, 9(8), 866.
- Campos, P. M. B. G. M., & Gonçalves, G. M. (2008). Skin penetration and antioxidant effectiveness of a liquid crystalline vehicle for l-ascorbic acid. International journal of cosmetic science, 30(6), 413–421.
Tocopherol
Other Names: Tocopherol; Vit E; vitamin E; α-Tocopherol; Alpha-tocopherol
1. Definition Tocopherol:
Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.
2. Use:
Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.
3. Usage Tocopherol:
Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.
4. References:
- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.
Allantoin
Other Names: Glyoxyldiureide; Allantion
Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing
1. Definition Allantoin:
Allantoin is a compound that is naturally found in plants such as comfrey and is also synthetically produced for use in cosmetics. It is known for its soothing, healing, and moisturizing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.
2. Use:
Allantoin is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to promote skin regeneration and repair. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, making it an effective ingredient in products designed to treat dry, rough, or damaged skin. Allantoin is also known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it a great option for soothing irritated or sensitive skin.
3. Usage Allantoin:
Allantoin is typically found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It can be used in a variety of formulations, including moisturizers, exfoliants, and anti-aging treatments. When using products containing allantoin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to patch test the product before applying it to larger areas of the skin to ensure compatibility.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences.
- Mukherjee, P. K., & Maity, N. (2011). Acute oral toxicity study of Allantoin in Swiss albino mice. International Journal of Research in Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Sciences, 2(3), 1247-1251.
- Vaughn, A. R., Clark, A. K., Sivamani, R. K., & Shi, V. Y. (2019). Natural oils for skin-barrier repair: ancient compounds now backed by modern science. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 20(3), 285-295.
Cholesterol
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Stabilising
1. Definition Cholesterol:
Cholesterol is a type of lipid that is naturally found in the skin and plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin's barrier function. In cosmetics, cholesterol is often used as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.
2. Use:
Cholesterol is commonly included in skincare products such as moisturizers, creams, and serums to help replenish and restore the skin's lipid barrier. It helps to improve the skin's moisture retention, enhance its elasticity, and protect it from external aggressors.
3. Usage Cholesterol:
When using skincare products containing cholesterol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to apply the product to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.
4. References:
- Katsambas, A.D., and Alexoudi, I. (2010). Cholesterol and skin care: facts, myths and controversies. Clinics in Dermatology, 28(4), 393-402.
- Rawlings, A.V., and Harding, C.R. (2004). Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(S1), 43-48.
- Draelos, Z.D. (2000). The science behind skin care: moisturizers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(1), 22-26.
Zinc Pca
Other Names: Zinc Complex L-PCA; Zn PCA; Zinc L-2-Pyrrolidone-5-Carboxylate
Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Zinc Pca:
Zinc Pca (Zinc Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid) is a compound that combines Zinc with L-Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and sebum-regulating properties.
2. Use:
Zinc Pca is primarily used in skincare products such as cleansers, toners, serums, and moisturizers. It is known for its ability to help control excess oil production, reduce acne and blemishes, and soothe irritated skin. Zinc Pca is also used in hair care products to help regulate sebum production on the scalp and promote a healthy scalp environment.
3. Usage Zinc Pca:
When using products containing Zinc Pca, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to do a patch test before applying it to their face or body. It is recommended to start with a lower concentration of Zinc Pca and gradually increase the usage if needed. Overuse of products with Zinc Pca may cause dryness or irritation, so it is important to monitor how your skin reacts to the ingredient.
4. References:
- Draelos ZD. Essential fatty acids in dermatology. J Drugs Dermatol. 2010;9(6): 669-673.
- Pazyar N, Yaghoobi R, Rafiee E, Mehrabian A, Feily A. Skin wound healing and phytomedicine: a review. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014;27(6):303-310.
- Brandt S. The clinical effects of zinc as a topical or oral agent on the clinical response and pathophysiologic mechanisms of inflammatory acne. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(5):542-545.
Manganese Pca
Function: Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Moisturising
1. Definition Manganese Pca:
Manganese PCA is a compound that combines manganese with pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, a natural moisturizing factor found in the skin. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties and ability to help improve skin texture and tone.
2. Use:
Manganese PCA is often included in skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions to help protect the skin from environmental stressors and free radicals. It can also help to promote collagen production and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
3. Usage Manganese Pca:
When using cosmetics containing Manganese PCA, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, these products are applied to clean, dry skin and massaged in gently until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use sunscreen during the day when using products with Manganese PCA to protect the skin from UV damage.
Precautions: While Manganese PCA is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using products with Manganese PCA on a larger area of the skin. If any adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a dermatologist.
4. References:
- https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6380979/
- https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28429679/
- https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0023643817306832
Magnesium Pca
Function: Skin Conditioning, Humectant
1. Definition Magnesium Pca:
Magnesium Pca is a compound that combines magnesium with the amino acid derivative L-pyroglutamic acid. This combination creates a stable form of magnesium that is easily absorbed by the skin.
2. Use:
Magnesium Pca is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to help maintain healthy skin by promoting collagen production, improving skin elasticity, and reducing inflammation. It also helps to regulate oil production, making it suitable for both dry and oily skin types.
3. Usage Magnesium Pca:
Magnesium Pca is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions. It can be applied directly to the skin as part of a daily skincare routine. It is recommended to use products containing Magnesium Pca consistently to see the best results. However, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to avoid any potential allergic reactions.
4. References:
- L. A. Leite-Silva et al. "Comparison of the effects of topical application of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium PCA on the skin." European Journal of Pharmaceutics and Biopharmaceutics, vol. 69, no. 3, 2008, pp. 948-953.
- K. S. Lee et al. "Effects of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium PCA on the skin hydration and barrier function in healthy human volunteers." Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, vol. 7, no. 1, 2008, pp. 27-31.
- M. S. Lee et al. "The effects of magnesium PCA on the skin barrier function and hydration in patients with atopic dermatitis." Journal of Dermatological Science, vol. 56, no. 2, 2009, pp. 106-111.
Sodium Pca
Other Names: Na-PCA; NaPCA; PCA-Na; Sodium Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid; Sodium Pyrrolidone Carboxylate; Sodium L-2-Pyrrolidone-5-Carboxylate; Sodium DL-Pyrrolidone Carboxylate
Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent
1. Definition Sodium Pca:
Sodium PCA, or sodium pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, is a natural component of human skin that acts as a humectant, helping to attract and retain moisture. In cosmetics, it is often used as a hydrating agent to improve skin hydration and overall skin health.
2. Use:
Sodium PCA is commonly used in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and lotions due to its ability to attract and hold moisture in the skin. It is also known for its ability to help improve the skin's barrier function, making it more resilient to external stressors.
3. Usage Sodium Pca:
When using products containing Sodium PCA, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is recommended to use products containing Sodium PCA consistently for best results.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2015). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw-Hill.
Sphingolipids
Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient
1. Definition Sphingolipids:
Sphingolipids are a class of lipids that contain a sphingoid base, a fatty acid, and a polar head group. They are essential components of cell membranes and play a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier function.
2. Use:
Sphingolipids are commonly used in cosmetics for their moisturizing and barrier repair properties. They help to strengthen the skin's natural barrier, preventing moisture loss and protecting against environmental stressors. Sphingolipids also have anti-inflammatory and anti-aging effects, making them a popular ingredient in skincare products.
3. Usage Sphingolipids:
Sphingolipids can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and creams. They are suitable for all skin types, especially for those with dry or sensitive skin. When using products containing sphingolipids, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face to avoid any potential allergic reactions.
4. References:
- Hannun YA, Obeid LM. Principles of bioactive lipid signalling: lessons from sphingolipids. Nat Rev Mol Cell Biol. 2008;9(2):139-150. doi:10.1038/nrm2329
- Uchida Y. Ceramide signaling in mammalian epidermis. Biochim Biophys Acta. 2014;1841(3):453-462. doi:10.1016/j.bbalip.2013.09.011
- Motta S, Monti M, Sesana S, Caputo R, Carelli S, Ghidoni R. Ceramide composition of the psoriatic scale. Biochim Biophys Acta. 1993;1182(2):147-151. doi:10.1016/0005-2760(93)90122-v
Phospholipids
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Phospholipids:
Phospholipids are a class of lipids that are essential components of cell membranes. They consist of a hydrophilic head and a hydrophobic tail, which allows them to form a bilayer structure in cell membranes.
2. Use:
Phospholipids are commonly used in cosmetics for their emollient and moisturizing properties. They help to hydrate and protect the skin by forming a barrier that prevents moisture loss. Additionally, phospholipids can improve the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products.
3. Usage Phospholipids:
When using cosmetics containing phospholipids, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also advisable to consult with a dermatologist if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions.
4. References:
- Rawlings, A. V. (2006). Trends in stratum corneum research and the management of dry skin conditions. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 28(3), 167-173.
- Kim, S., Kim, H. J., Park, H. J., & Kim, S. Y. (2014). Phospholipids in cosmetic: Friends or foes. Korean Journal of Chemical Engineering, 31(10), 1739-1748.
- Bouwstra, J. A., & Ponec, M. (2006). The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state. Biochimica et Biophysica Acta (BBA) - Biomembranes, 1758(12), 2080-2095.
Lecithin
Other Names: phosphatidylcholine; Lecithin; Lecithins; Soy Lecithin; Soybean Lecithin; Soya Lecithin
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant
1. Definition Lecithin:
Lecithin is a naturally occurring fatty substance that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and emulsifier. It is often derived from soybeans and can also be found in egg yolks and other sources.
2. Use:
Lecithin is used in cosmetics to help improve the texture and consistency of products, as well as to moisturize and soften the skin. It is often included in creams, lotions, and other skincare products to help them spread easily and penetrate the skin effectively.
3. Usage Lecithin:
When using products containing lecithin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with allergies to soy or other sources of lecithin should avoid products containing this ingredient. It is also recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions.
4. References:
- Magdassi, S., & Garti, N. (1999). Lecithin-based emulsions. Current Opinion in Colloid & Interface Science, 4(5), 311-316.
- Barauskas, J., & Nylander, T. (2005). Lecithin-based microemulsions. Langmuir, 21(2), 597-601.
- Komaiko, J. S., & McClements, D. J. (2016). Low-energy formation of edible nanoemulsions: Factors influencing droplet size produced by emulsion phase inversion. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, 434, 8-20.
Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient
1. Definition Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate:
Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate is a mixture of esters derived from hydrogenated palm oil and citric acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and surfactant.
2. Use:
Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate is used in various cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup to improve the texture and consistency of the product. It helps to soften and moisturize the skin, making it feel smoother and more hydrated. Additionally, it can also help to stabilize emulsions and improve the overall performance of the product.
3. Usage Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate:
Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate is typically used in cosmetic formulations at concentrations ranging from 1-5%. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of skin to ensure compatibility. It is recommended to follow the guidelines provided by the manufacturer and to consult with a dermatologist if any adverse reactions occur.
4. References:
- "Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate." CosmeticsInfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/hydrogenated-palm-glycerides-citrate.
- "Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/hydrogenated-palm-glycerides-citrate/.
- "Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/hydrogenated-palm-glycerides-citrate.
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer 6
Function: Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising
1. Definition Polyacrylate Crosspolymer 6:
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer 6 is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer. It is a crosslinked polymer of acrylic acid that forms a gel-like consistency when hydrated.
2. Use:
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer 6 is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, gels, and serums. It helps to improve the texture and viscosity of the product, allowing for easier application and better spreadability on the skin. Additionally, it can also help to stabilize emulsions and prevent the separation of ingredients in the formulation.
3. Usage Polyacrylate Crosspolymer 6:
When using products containing Polyacrylate Crosspolymer 6, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient to ensure compatibility with your skin. If any adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.
4. References:
- "Polyacrylate Crosspolymer 6" in CosmeticsInfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polyacrylate-crosspolymer-6
- "Polyacrylate Crosspolymer 6: Functions and Applications" in Personal Care Magazine, https://www.personalcaremagazine.com/story/18674/polyacrylate-crosspolymer-6-functions-and-applications
- "Safety Assessment of Polyacrylate Crosspolymer 6" in the International Journal of Toxicology, https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/1091581818783125
Trideceth 9
Function: Surfactant, Emulsifying
1. Definition Trideceth 9:
Trideceth-9 is a polyethylene glycol ether of tridecyl alcohol, commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products as an emulsifier, surfactant, and cleansing agent. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a mild odor.
2. Use:
Trideceth-9 is often included in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and cleansers to help emulsify ingredients, improve the texture of the product, and enhance its cleansing properties. It is also used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners to help distribute the active ingredients evenly and improve the overall performance of the product.
3. Usage Trideceth 9:
Trideceth-9 is considered safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products when used in accordance with the concentration limits set by regulatory agencies. It is generally well-tolerated by most individuals, but as with any cosmetic ingredient, some people may experience sensitivity or allergic reactions. It is important to perform a patch test before using products containing Trideceth-9, especially if you have sensitive skin or a history of allergies.
4. References:
- "Trideceth-9." Cosmeticsinfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/trideceth-9.
- "Trideceth-9." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/trideceth-9.
- "Safety Assessment of Trideceth-9." Cosmetics & Toiletries, www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/category/skincare/Safety-Assessment-of-Trideceth-9-572905031.html.
Phenoxyethanol
Other Names: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE
Function: Fragrance, Preservative
1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:
Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.
2. Use:
Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.
3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:
When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.
Polysorbate 20
Other Names: POE (20) Sorbitan monolaurate; Polysorbate 20; Atmer 110; PEG(20)sorbitan monolaurate; Alkest TW 20
Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant
1. Definition Polysorbate 20:
Polysorbate 20 is a type of nonionic surfactant that is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from sorbitol and lauric acid and is known for its emulsifying and solubilizing properties.
2. Use:
Polysorbate 20 is primarily used as an emulsifier in cosmetics to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together. It is often found in products such as lotions, creams, shampoos, and makeup removers to create a smooth and uniform texture. Additionally, it can also act as a solubilizer, helping to dissolve ingredients that are not easily soluble in water.
3. Usage Polysorbate 20:
When using products containing polysorbate 20, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with polysorbate 20 to determine if any adverse reactions occur. Additionally, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective use.
4. References:
- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). Polysorbate 20. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polysorbate-20
- Personal Care Council. (2019). Polysorbate 20. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-dictionary/ingredient/2477
- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2009). Polysorbate 20. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Polysorbate-20
Ethylhexylglycerin
Other Names: Octoxyglycerin
Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:
Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.
2. Use:
Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.
3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:
Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.
4. References:
- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.
- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.
- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.
Propanediol
Other Names: 1,3-Propylene Glycol; 1,3-Dihydroxypropane; 1,3-Propanediol; Zemea Propanediol
Function: Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling
1. Definition Propanediol:
Propanediol is a colorless, odorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant, solvent, and emollient. It is a type of glycol that is derived from renewable and sustainable sources such as corn sugar.
2. Use:
Propanediol is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and feel of products. It helps to hydrate the skin by attracting and retaining moisture, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and lotions. Additionally, propanediol can enhance the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products, making them more effective.
3. Usage Propanediol:
Propanediol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow recommended guidelines and precautions. It is recommended to patch test products containing propanediol before applying them to larger areas of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure optimal results and minimize the risk of irritation.
4. References:
- Zhang, X., Qian, H., & Tang, S. (2018). Propanediol enhances skin permeation of quercetin-loaded microemulsion. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy, 44(6), 1010-1016.
- Rigo, L. A., da Silva, D. F., & Sayer, C. (2019). Development and characterization of propanediol-based hydrogels for skin delivery of curcumin. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 132, 73-81.
- Huang, D., Zhang, Y., & Zhang, Z. (2017). Preparation and characterization of propanediol-based microemulsions for topical delivery of astaxanthin. Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology, 38(9), 1317-1323.
Disodium Edta
Other Names: Endrate; Disodium Edetate; Disodium Salt; Disodium EDTA; Disodium dihydrogen ethylenediaminetetraacetate; EDTA Disodium Salt; EDTA-2Na
Function: Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling
1. Definition Disodium Edta:
Disodium EDTA, or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium salt, is a chelating agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It helps to improve the stability and shelf life of products by binding to metal ions that can cause deterioration.
2. Use:
Disodium EDTA is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative and stabilizer. It helps to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria, as well as maintain the texture and appearance of products. Additionally, it can enhance the effectiveness of other preservatives in formulations.
3. Usage Disodium Edta:
Disodium EDTA is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 0.5% in cosmetics. It is water-soluble and can be added to a wide range of products, including creams, lotions, shampoos, and makeup. However, it is important to note that while Disodium EDTA is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it and experience skin irritation. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Disodium EDTA, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTA. International Journal of Toxicology, 21(Suppl 2), 95-142.
- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). EDTA. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/edta/
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=184.1133
T Butyl Alcohol
Other Names: Tert-Butyl alcohol; 2-methylpropan-2-ol
Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Denaturant
1. Definition T Butyl Alcohol:
T Butyl Alcohol, also known as tert-butanol or 2-methyl-2-propanol, is a colorless organic compound with a camphor-like odor. It is a tertiary alcohol with the molecular formula C4H10O.
2. Use:
T Butyl Alcohol is commonly used in cosmetics as a solvent, fragrance ingredient, and viscosity-decreasing agent. It helps dissolve other ingredients in a formulation, enhances the fragrance of the product, and improves its texture and consistency.
3. Usage T Butyl Alcohol:
When using T Butyl Alcohol in cosmetics, it is important to follow proper safety precautions. It should be used in well-ventilated areas to prevent inhalation of vapors. Avoid contact with skin and eyes, as it can cause irritation. In case of accidental ingestion, seek medical attention immediately. Store T Butyl Alcohol in a cool, dry place away from heat and flame.
4. References:
- "Safety Assessment of Tertiary-Butyl Alcohol as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel
- "Tertiary-Butyl Alcohol" by the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health
- "Tert-Butyl Alcohol" by PubChem, National Library of Medicine
Bht
Other Names: Di-Butyl Hydroxy Toluene; BHT; Dibutylhydroxytoluene; Butylated hydroxytoluene
Function: Masking, Fragrance, Antioxidant
1. Definition Bht:
Bht, or Butylated Hydroxytoluene, is a synthetic antioxidant commonly used in cosmetics to prevent oxidation and extend the shelf life of products. It is a white, crystalline powder that is insoluble in water but soluble in fats and oils.
2. Use:
Bht is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent the degradation of oils and fats in formulations. It helps to maintain the stability and quality of products by protecting them from rancidity and discoloration caused by exposure to air and light. Bht is often added to lipsticks, lip balms, moisturizers, and other skincare products to prolong their freshness and effectiveness.
3. Usage Bht:
When using cosmetics containing Bht, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines for application. It is generally considered safe for topical use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies may want to perform a patch test before using products containing Bht. It is recommended to store Bht-containing products in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their efficacy.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of BHT. International journal of toxicology, 7(5), 669-735.
- Food and Drug Administration. (2021). CFR - Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.110
- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). PubChem Compound Summary for CID 31404, Butylated hydroxytoluene. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylated-hydroxytoluene
Potassium Sorbate
Function: Fragrance, Preservative
1. Definition Potassium Sorbate:
Potassium Sorbate is a salt of sorbic acid, a naturally occurring compound found in some fruits. It is commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics to prevent the growth of mold, yeast, and bacteria, extending the shelf life of the product.
2. Use:
Potassium Sorbate is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent microbial contamination. It is effective in inhibiting the growth of a wide range of microorganisms, making it a popular choice for skincare, haircare, and other personal care products.
3. Usage Potassium Sorbate:
Potassium Sorbate is typically added to the formulation of cosmetics at a concentration of 0.1-0.5% to effectively preserve the product. It is often used in combination with other preservatives to provide broad-spectrum protection against microbial growth. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by the supplier to ensure the safety and efficacy of the preservative.
4. References:
- “Potassium Sorbate.” Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/potassium-sorbate.
- “Potassium Sorbate.” Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/potassium-sorbate.
- “Potassium Sorbate: Uses, Safety, and More.” Healthline, www.healthline.com/health/potassium-sorbate.
Other Names: Salicylates; 2-hydroxybenzoic; Salicylic Acid; Beta Hydroxy Acid
Function: Masking, Antioxidant
1. Definition Bha:
BHA, or beta hydroxy acid, is a type of chemical exfoliant commonly used in skincare products. It is oil-soluble, making it ideal for penetrating deep into the pores to unclog them and exfoliate dead skin cells.
2. Use:
BHA is primarily used in cosmetics and skincare products to treat acne, blackheads, and other skin concerns related to clogged pores. It is also known for its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, making it effective in reducing redness and inflammation associated with acne.
3. Usage Bha:
When using products containing BHA, it is important to start with a lower concentration to avoid potential irritation, especially for those with sensitive skin. BHA can increase sun sensitivity, so it is essential to use sunscreen daily when incorporating BHA into your skincare routine. It is recommended to use BHA products in the evening to allow for maximum effectiveness without the risk of increased sun sensitivity.
4. References:
- Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 455-461.
- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical Interventions in Aging, 1(4), 327-348.
- Kornhauser, A., Coelho, S. G., & Hearing, V. J. (2010). Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 3, 135-142.
CI 14700
Other Names: FD&C Red No.4; FD&C Red #4; Food Red 1; Red No.4; Red #4; Ponceau sx
Function: Cosmetic Colorant
1. Definition CI 14700:
CI 14700, also known as Red 4, is a synthetic dye commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products to impart a red or pink color to the product.
2. Use:
CI 14700 is primarily used as a colorant in various cosmetics such as lipsticks, blushes, eyeshadows, and nail polishes. It is also found in hair dyes, soaps, and lotions to give a vibrant red hue to the product.
3. Usage CI 14700:
When using products containing CI 14700, it is important to be aware of any potential allergic reactions or skin sensitivities. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with CI 14700 to ensure there are no adverse reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin or allergies should consult with a dermatologist before using products containing this dye.
4. References:
- "Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final report on the safety assessment of Red 4 (CI 14700)." International Journal of Toxicology 24.Suppl 2 (2005): 1-15.
- "European Commission. CosIng - Cosmetics - GROWTH - European Commission." https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/index.cfm?fuseaction=search.details_v2&id=10050. Accessed 15 Nov. 2021.
- "Personal Care Products Council. Color Additives - Personal Care Products Council." https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/resource/color-additives/. Accessed 15 Nov. 2021.
CI 60730
Other Names: Acid violet 43; Ext. Violet 2
Function: Cosmetic Colorant
1. Definition CI 60730:
CI 60730, also known as Ext. D&C Violet 2, is a synthetic colorant commonly used in cosmetics to provide a purple or violet hue to various products.
2. Use:
CI 60730 is primarily used in cosmetics such as lipsticks, eyeshadows, blushes, and nail polishes to add a vibrant purple color to the products. It is also commonly used in hair dyes to achieve shades of purple or violet.
3. Usage CI 60730:
When using cosmetics containing CI 60730, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines for application. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product to check for any allergic reactions or sensitivities. Avoid direct contact with the eyes and mucous membranes, and discontinue use if any irritation occurs.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2008). Final report on the safety assessment of Ext. D&C Violet No. 2. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(1), 1-21.
- Food and Drug Administration. (2018). Color Additives Permitted for Use in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/color-additives-permitted-use-cosmetics
- European Commission. (2019). CosIng - Cosmetic Ingredients Database. Retrieved from https://ec.europa.eu/growth/sectors/cosmetics/cosing_en