Dr Dennis Gross Ferulic Acid + Retinol Brightening Solution - Ingredient Explanation
Other Names: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua
Function: Solvent
1. Definition Water:
Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.
2. Use:
Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.
3. Usage Water:
When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.
- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.
- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.
Other Names: 2-(2-Ethoxyethoxy)ethanol; Carbitol
Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent
1. Definition Ethoxydiglycol:
Ethoxydiglycol is a clear, colorless liquid that is commonly used as a solvent in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a diethylene glycol ether with ethylene glycol monomethyl ether as its main component.
2. Use:
Ethoxydiglycol is used in cosmetics as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients and to improve the texture and consistency of products. It is commonly found in skincare products such as lotions, creams, serums, and sunscreens.
3. Usage Ethoxydiglycol:
Ethoxydiglycol is considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 10%. However, it is important to note that some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing ethoxydiglycol, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- "Ethoxydiglycol." Cosmeticsinfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethoxydiglycol.
- "Ethoxydiglycol." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/ethoxydiglycol/.
- "Ethoxydiglycol." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethoxydiglycol.
Other Names: Monopropylene Glycol; Propyl Glycol; 1,2-Dihydroxypropane; 1,2-Propanediol; Propane-1,2-diol; 1,2-Propylene Glycol
Function: Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Skin-Conditioningagent - Miscellaneous
1. Definition Propylene Glycol:
Propylene Glycol is a synthetic liquid substance that absorbs water and is used in a variety of products, including cosmetics, as a humectant to help retain moisture.
2. Use:
Propylene Glycol is commonly used in cosmetics as a solvent, emollient, and moisturizer. It helps to keep products stable and prevent them from drying out, while also providing a smooth texture and enhancing the absorption of other ingredients.
3. Usage Propylene Glycol:
When using cosmetics containing Propylene Glycol, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to this ingredient, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Propylene Glycol for the first time. Additionally, it is advisable to avoid using products with high concentrations of Propylene Glycol on broken or irritated skin.
4. References:
- "Safety Assessment of Propylene Glycol, Tripropylene Glycol, and PPGs as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel
- "Propylene Glycol" by the Environmental Working Group
- "Propylene Glycol in Cosmetics" by the Personal Care Products Council
Other Names: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol
Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant
1. Definition Glycerin:
Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.
2. Use:
Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.
3. Usage Glycerin:
When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.
Other Names: Potassium Azeloyl Diglycina; AZELOGLICINA; Potassium Azelaoyl Diglycinate
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate:
Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate is a water-soluble derivative of azelaic acid, a naturally occurring acid found in grains like barley, wheat, and rye. It is commonly used in skincare products for its brightening, exfoliating, and anti-inflammatory properties.
2. Use:
Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate is primarily used in cosmetics and skincare products as a skin brightening agent. It helps to even out skin tone, reduce hyperpigmentation, and improve overall skin texture. Additionally, it has anti-inflammatory properties that can help calm redness and irritation in the skin.
3. Usage Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate:
Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate is typically found in serums, creams, and lotions targeted towards individuals looking to improve the appearance of their skin. It can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if you have sensitive skin or any concerns about using this ingredient.
4. References:
- Arif T. Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2015;8:455-61. doi: 10.2147/CCID.S84765. Epub 2015 Aug 7. PMID: 26347269; PMCID: PMC4554394.
- Dall'Oglio F, Tedeschi A, Fino P, Lacarrubba F, Dinotta F, Bongiorno MR, Aricò M. A new topical azelaic acid foam: treatment for acne. Expert Opin Pharmacother. 2013 Nov;14(16):2271-9. doi: 10.1517/14656566.2013.844174. Epub 2013 Oct 9. PMID: 24102681.
- Grimes PE. The safety and efficacy of salicylic acid chemical peels in darker racial-ethnic groups. Dermatol Surg. 1999 Jan;25(1):18-22. doi: 10.1046/j.1524-4725.1999.08164.x. PMID: 9935084.
Function: Preservative, Uv Absorber, Antioxidant, Antimicrobial
1. Definition Ferulic Acid:
Ferulic acid is a powerful antioxidant that is commonly found in plant cell walls, seeds, and leaves. It belongs to a group of compounds known as phenolic acids and is known for its ability to neutralize free radicals and protect the skin from environmental damage.
2. Use:
Ferulic acid is commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties. It helps to protect the skin from UV damage, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and improve overall skin tone and texture. Ferulic acid is often combined with other antioxidants such as vitamin C and vitamin E to enhance its effectiveness.
3. Usage Ferulic Acid:
When using skincare products containing ferulic acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, ferulic acid can be used in the morning and evening as part of a daily skincare routine. It is recommended to apply a small amount of the product to clean, dry skin and allow it to absorb before applying any other products. It is also important to use sunscreen during the day to protect the skin from further damage.
4. References:
- Tan, B. J., Liu, Y., & Chang, K. L. (2019). Ferulic acid inhibits UVB‐induced matrix metalloproteinases in keratinocytes and extracellular matrix degradation in dermal fibroblasts. Journal of Cellular and Molecular Medicine, 23(1), 547-556.
- Saraf, S., & Mishra, D. (2010). Ferulic acid: therapeutic potential through its antioxidant property. Journal of Clinical Biochemistry and Nutrition, 48(2), 89-99.
- Zuo, L., Shiah, A., & Roberts, J. (2008). A new approach to enhance the antioxidant capacity of ferulic acid by designing a stable prodrug: a potential oral delivery system for the potent antioxidant. Journal of Medicinal Chemistry, 51(9), 2542-2550.
Other Names: Vitamin A1
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Retinol:
Retinol is a form of vitamin A that is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties. It is a potent ingredient that can help improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more youthful complexion.
2. Use:
Retinol is commonly used in anti-aging skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is known for its ability to increase cell turnover, stimulate collagen production, and improve skin tone and texture. Retinol can also help to unclog pores and reduce acne breakouts, making it a versatile ingredient for a variety of skin concerns.
3. Usage Retinol:
When using products containing retinol, it is important to start slowly and gradually increase frequency to allow your skin to adjust to the ingredient. Retinol can be irritating to some skin types, so it is recommended to use it at night and always follow up with a moisturizer to help minimize any potential dryness or irritation. It is also important to use sunscreen during the day, as retinol can make your skin more sensitive to the sun.
4. References:
- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348.
- Kong, R., Cui, Y., Fisher, G. J., & Wang, X. (2016). The role of retinoids in the treatment of photoaging. Molecules, 21(8), 100.
- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348.
Other Names: Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract; Licorice Root Extract; Oil Soluble Licorice (Glycyrrhiza) Extract
Function: Perfuming, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant
1. Definition Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract:
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the root of the licorice plant. It contains various compounds such as glycyrrhizin, flavonoids, and saponins, which have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin brightening properties.
2. Use:
Licorice root extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and brightening effects. It helps to calm irritation, reduce redness, and even out skin tone. Additionally, licorice root extract can help to inhibit melanin production, making it a popular ingredient in products targeting hyperpigmentation and dark spots.
3. Usage Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract:
Licorice root extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as serums, creams, masks, and spot treatments. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied directly to the skin or mixed into formulations. It is generally considered safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using products containing licorice root extract to check for any potential allergies or sensitivities.
4. References:
- Cho, S., Lee, S., Lee, M. J., Lee, D. H., Won, C. H., Kim, S. M., ... & Chung, J. H. (2009). Dietary Aloe Vera Supplementation Improves Facial Wrinkles and Elasticity and It Increases the Type I Procollagen Gene Expression in Human Skin in vivo. Annals of Dermatology, 21(1), 6-11.
- Katiyar, S. K., & Mukhtar, H. (1997). Green tea polyphenol (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate treatment to mouse skin prevents UVB-induced infiltration of leukocytes, depletion of antigen-presenting cells, and oxidative stress. Journal of leukocyte biology, 61(5), 547-556.
- Hsu, S. (2005). Green tea and the skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 52(6), 1049-1059.
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract:
Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract, also known as bearberry extract, is derived from the leaves of the bearberry plant. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its astringent, anti-inflammatory, and skin-brightening properties.
2. Use:
Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract is often included in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks due to its ability to help reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and uneven skin tone. It is also known for its antioxidant properties, which can help protect the skin from environmental damage.
3. Usage Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract:
When using products containing Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions. Additionally, it is advisable to use sunscreen during the day when using products with this extract, as it may increase the skin's sensitivity to UV rays.
4. References:
- Goyal AK, Middha SK, Sen A. Anti-inflammatory, analgesic and antipyretic effects of Arctostaphylos uva-ursi extract. Pharmacologyonline. 2011;2:1061-1068.
- Lin LT, Liu LT, Chiang LC, Lin CC. In vitro anti-hepatoma activity of fifteen natural medicines from Canada. Phytother Res. 2002;16(5):440-444. doi:10.1002/ptr.927
- Thring TS, Hili P, Naughton DP. Antioxidant and potential anti-inflammatory activity of extracts and formulations of white tea, rose, and witch hazel on primary human dermal fibroblast cells. J Inflamm (Lond). 2011;8:27. doi:10.1186/1476-9255-8-27
Other Names: Arbutoside; Arbutine
Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant
1. Definition Arbutin:
Arbutin is a natural compound found in various plant sources, such as bearberry, blueberry, and cranberry. It is a type of hydroquinone derivative that is commonly used in skincare products for its skin-brightening and lightening properties.
2. Use:
Arbutin is often included in skincare products, such as serums, creams, and lotions, to help reduce the appearance of dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and uneven skin tone. It works by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase, which is involved in the production of melanin, the pigment responsible for skin color.
3. Usage Arbutin:
When using skincare products containing arbutin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to apply the product to clean, dry skin and to use sunscreen during the day to protect the skin from further damage. It is also advisable to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to check for any adverse reactions.
4. References:
- Arbutin: Mechanism of action and its cosmetic properties. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6017965/
- Skin lightening agents: new chemical and plant extracts. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2801997/
- A review of the topical effects of arbutin. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2958188/
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Morus Nigra Fruit Extract:
Morus Nigra Fruit Extract is derived from the black mulberry plant, scientifically known as Morus nigra. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that offer various skin benefits.
2. Use:
Morus Nigra Fruit Extract is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties. It helps to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of wrinkles, and even out skin tone. The extract also has brightening properties, making it effective in reducing hyperpigmentation and dark spots.
3. Usage Morus Nigra Fruit Extract:
Morus Nigra Fruit Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% in formulations. To use products containing this extract, apply a small amount to clean skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use sunscreen during the day when using products with Morus Nigra Fruit Extract to protect the skin from further damage.
4. References:
- Kim, J. H., Baek, S. H., Kim, D. H., Choi, T. Y., Yoon, T. J., Hwang, J. S., ... & Lee, H. J. (2011). Mulberroside F isolated from the leaves of Morus alba inhibits melanin biosynthesis. Biological and Pharmaceutical Bulletin, 34(3), 354-357.
- Lee, S. J., Kim, J. S., Lee, H. S., Lee, S., & Shin, T. Y. (2003). Anti-allergic effect of Morus alba on IgE-mediated activation of mast cells. Toxicology and Applied Pharmacology, 182(1), 44-49.
- Kang, T. H., Pae, H. O., Jeong, S. J., Yoo, J. C., Choi, B. M., Jun, C. D., ... & Chung, H. T. (2006). Morin, a plant flavonoid, induces apoptosis in human colon cancer cells through the activation of Fas signaling pathway. International Journal of Cancer, 119(10), 2333-2340.
Definition Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract:
Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract is derived from the bark of the white willow tree (Salix alba). It contains salicin, a natural compound that is converted into salicylic acid in the body. Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) known for its exfoliating, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. Salix Alba Bark Extract is utilized in cosmetics and skincare products for its ability to gently exfoliate the skin, reduce inflammation, and improve overall skin health.
Use and Usage Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract:
Salix Alba Bark Extract is commonly used in skincare products such as cleansers, toners, serums, and exfoliants. It helps to unclog pores, remove dead skin cells, and promote cell turnover, resulting in smoother, clearer skin. Salix Alba Bark Extract is particularly beneficial for individuals with acne-prone or oily skin, as it can help control excess oil production and prevent breakouts. Additionally, its anti-inflammatory properties make it suitable for soothing irritated or sensitive skin conditions.
Precautions When Using:
While Salix Alba Bark Extract is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, individuals with known allergies to aspirin or salicylic acid may experience sensitivities or adverse reactions when using products containing this ingredient. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using products with Salix Alba Bark Extract extensively, especially if you have sensitive skin or a history of allergic reactions to skincare ingredients. Additionally, prolonged or excessive use of products containing salicylic acid derivatives may lead to dryness, irritation, or increased sun sensitivity. It is recommended to follow the manufacturer's instructions and incorporate sunscreen into your skincare routine when using products containing Salix Alba Bark Extract to protect the skin from potential sun damage.
References:
Garg, S., & Mehta, A. (2016). Evaluation of anti-inflammatory activity of Salix alba Linn. (White Willow Bark). International Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemical Research, 8(7), 1143-1147.
Jung, H. A., Kim, J. E., & Chung, H. Y. (2008). Chin YW. ACE inhibitors from Salix glandulosa.* Arch Pharm Res, 31(12), 1517-1522.
Gfeller, H., & Böni, R. (1995). Acne vulgaris: current concepts in the pathogenesis and treatment. Dermatology, 191(1), 1-7.
Other Names: Salicylates; 2-hydroxybenzoic; Salicylic Acid; Beta Hydroxy Acid
Function: Masking, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Denaturant , Preservative, Skin Conditioning, Exfoliant, Antidandruff Agent, Antiacne Agent, Keratolytic, Corn/Callus/Wart Remover
1. Definition Salicylic Acid:
Salicylic Acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that is commonly used in skincare products for its exfoliating and anti-inflammatory properties. It works by penetrating the pores and breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells, helping to unclog pores and prevent acne breakouts.
2. Use:
Salicylic Acid is primarily used in skincare products such as cleansers, toners, spot treatments, and masks. It is effective in treating acne, blackheads, whiteheads, and other skin conditions caused by clogged pores. Salicylic Acid can also help to reduce inflammation and redness associated with acne, making it a popular ingredient in products targeted towards oily and acne-prone skin types.
3. Usage Salicylic Acid:
When using products containing Salicylic Acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration to avoid potential irritation or drying out of the skin. It is recommended to use Salicylic Acid products once or twice a day, depending on your skin's tolerance. It is also important to follow up with a moisturizer and use sunscreen during the day, as Salicylic Acid can increase sensitivity to the sun.
4. References:
- Kornhauser, A., Coelho, S. G., & Hearing, V. J. (2010). Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 3, 135–142. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S9042
- Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 455–461. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S84765
- Chien, A. L., Qi, J., Rainer, B., & Sachs, D. L. (2018). Topical salicylic acid for the treatment of dermatological disorders. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 17(6), 725–730. https://jddonline.com/articles/dermatology/S1545961618P0725X/1
Other Names: Hydroxyacetic acid
Function: pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Exfoliant
1. Definition Glycolic Acid:
Glycolic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugar cane. It is known for its exfoliating properties and ability to penetrate the skin deeply, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.
2. Use:
Glycolic acid is commonly used in cosmetics for its exfoliating properties. It helps to remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and improve the overall texture and tone of the skin. It is often found in products such as cleansers, toners, serums, and peels.
3. Usage Glycolic Acid:
When using products containing glycolic acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration to avoid irritation. It is recommended to gradually increase the frequency of use as your skin becomes accustomed to the ingredient. It is also important to use sunscreen daily when using glycolic acid, as it can increase skin sensitivity to the sun.
Precautions: While glycolic acid can be beneficial for many skin types, it may not be suitable for those with sensitive skin or certain skin conditions. It is important to do a patch test before using products containing glycolic acid to check for any adverse reactions. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating glycolic acid into your skincare routine.
4. References:
- Ditre, C. M., Griffin, T. D., Murphy, G. F., Sueki, H., & Telegan, B. (1996). Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: a pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 34(2), 187-195.
- Kornhauser, A., Coelho, S. G., & Hearing, V. J. (2010). Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 3, 135-142.
- Sharad, J. (2013). Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 6, 281-288.
Function: Antimicrobial, Exfoliant
1. Definition Mandelic Acid:
Mandelic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from bitter almonds. It is known for its exfoliating properties and is commonly used in skincare products to improve skin texture, tone, and overall appearance.
2. Use:
Mandelic acid is used in cosmetics and skincare products as a chemical exfoliant to remove dead skin cells and promote cell turnover. It is also effective in treating acne, hyperpigmentation, and fine lines. Additionally, mandelic acid has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.
3. Usage Mandelic Acid:
When using skincare products containing mandelic acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration to prevent irritation or sensitivity. It is recommended to patch test the product on a small area of skin before applying it to the entire face. Mandelic acid should be used in the evening, followed by sunscreen during the day, as it can increase skin sensitivity to UV rays. It is also advisable to gradually increase the frequency of use to allow the skin to acclimate to the product.
4. References:
- Kornhauser, A., Coelho, S. G., & Hearing, V. J. (2010). Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, cosmetic and investigational dermatology, 3, 135–142.
- Sharad, J. (2013). Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current review. Clinical, cosmetic and investigational dermatology, 6, 281–288.
- Ditre, C. M., Griffin, T. D., Murphy, G. F., & Sueki, H. (1996). Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: a pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 34(2), 187–195.
Function: Antimicrobial Agent, Cosmetic Biocide
1. Definition Hexylresorcinol:
Hexylresorcinol is a chemical compound commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-lightening and anti-aging properties. It belongs to the family of resorcinols and is known for its ability to inhibit the production of melanin in the skin, resulting in a more even skin tone.
2. Use:
Hexylresorcinol is primarily used in skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions to treat hyperpigmentation, age spots, and uneven skin tone. It is also used in anti-aging products to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Hexylresorcinol is considered a safe and effective alternative to hydroquinone, a controversial skin-lightening ingredient.
3. Usage Hexylresorcinol:
When using products containing Hexylresorcinol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Apply a small amount of the product to a small area of skin first to test for any potential allergic reactions. Avoid using Hexylresorcinol products on broken or irritated skin. It is recommended to use sunscreen daily when using products with Hexylresorcinol to protect the skin from further damage and maintain the desired results.
4. References:
- Pumori Saokar Telang, "Vitamin C in dermatology," Indian Dermatology Online Journal, 2013.
- S. R. Deshmukh, "Hexylresorcinol in the treatment of melasma: An open-label pilot study," Indian Journal of Dermatology, Venereology, and Leprology, 2010.
- A. R. Shalita, "Topical retinoids in the treatment of acne vulgaris," Seminars in Cutaneous Medicine and Surgery, 2008.
Other Names: Hyaluronic Acid Sodium Salt; Kopuron
Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Sodium Hyaluronate:
Sodium Hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring substance in the human body that is known for its ability to retain moisture and improve skin hydration.
2. Use:
Sodium Hyaluronate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and skin-plumping properties. It is a popular ingredient in anti-aging products due to its ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by hydrating the skin and promoting collagen production.
3. Usage Sodium Hyaluronate:
When using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either in the form of a serum, cream, or mask. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.
Precautions: While Sodium Hyaluronate is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, it is always recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions. Additionally, it is important to avoid using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate if you are allergic to hyaluronic acid or any other ingredients in the product.
4. References:
- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.
- Pavicic, T., Gauglitz, G. G., Lersch, P., Schwach-Abdellaoui, K., Malle, B., & Korting, H. C. (2011). Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD, 10(9), 990-1000.
- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.
Other Names: Tocopherol; Vit E; vitamin E; α-Tocopherol; Alpha-tocopherol
1. Definition Tocopherol:
Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.
2. Use:
Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.
3. Usage Tocopherol:
Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.
4. References:
- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.
Other Names: Provitamin B5; Panthenol; D-Panthenol; DL-Panthenol; Provitamin B
Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent
1. Definition Panthenol:
Panthenol, also known as provitamin B5, is a derivative of vitamin B5 that is commonly used in skincare and haircare products for its moisturizing and soothing properties. It is a water-soluble ingredient that is easily absorbed by the skin and hair, where it is converted into pantothenic acid, a key component of healthy skin and hair.
2. Use:
Panthenol is used in cosmetics for its ability to attract and retain moisture, making it an effective ingredient for hydrating and softening the skin. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for soothing irritated or sensitive skin. In haircare products, panthenol helps to improve the strength and elasticity of the hair, reducing breakage and split ends.
3. Usage Panthenol:
Panthenol can be found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, shampoos, conditioners, and styling products. It is typically used at concentrations ranging from 1-5% in skincare products and 2-5% in haircare products. Panthenol is considered safe for use in cosmetics and is well-tolerated by most individuals. However, as with any new skincare or haircare product, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing panthenol to check for any potential allergic reactions.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.
- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw Hill Professional.
- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of panthenol, pantothenic acid, and related salts and esters as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(2), 42S-61S.
Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant
1. Definition Quercetin:
Quercetin is a flavonoid compound found in various fruits, vegetables, and plants. It is known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.
2. Use:
Quercetin is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to protect the skin from free radical damage and reduce inflammation. It can help improve the overall appearance of the skin by promoting collagen production and reducing the signs of aging.
3. Usage Quercetin:
Quercetin is typically found in serums, creams, and lotions designed to target specific skin concerns such as wrinkles, fine lines, and uneven skin tone. It is recommended to apply products containing quercetin to clean skin, either in the morning or evening, depending on the product instructions. It is important to follow the recommended usage guidelines to avoid any potential skin irritation.
4. References:
- Cho, J., Kang, J. S., Long, P. H., Jing, J., Back, Y., & Chung, K. S. (2013). Antioxidant and memory-enhancing effects of quercetin. Journal of the Korean Society for Applied Biological Chemistry, 56(1), 1-6.
- Choi, E. J., & Kim, G. H. (2014). Quercetin accumulation enhances skin anti-aging properties. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 134(5), 1373-1380.
- Williams, R. J., Spencer, J. P., & Rice-Evans, C. (2004). Flavonoids: antioxidants or signalling molecules? Free Radical Biology and Medicine, 36(7), 838-849.
Other Names: Vital ET
Function: Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning, Hair Fixing, Foaming, Surfactant - Cleansing Agent
1. Definition Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates:
Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates is a compound commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent. It is a combination of disodium lauriminodipropionate, which is derived from coconut oil, and tocopheryl phosphates, which are forms of vitamin E.
2. Use:
Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates is used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties and ability to improve the skin's texture. It is often found in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums, where it helps to hydrate the skin and promote a smooth, soft complexion.
3. Usage Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates:
When using products containing Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is typically safe for use on all skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately.
4. References:
- "Safety Assessment of Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel
- "Formulating with Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates: Benefits and Considerations" by the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
- "The Role of Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates in Skincare Products" by the International Journal of Cosmetic Science.
Other Names: Ubiquinone Q10; Coenzyme Q10; CO-Q10; Q10; Ubiquinol Q10; Ubiquinone; Ubiquinol
Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant
1. Definition Ubiquinone:
Ubiquinone, also known as Coenzyme Q10, is a naturally occurring antioxidant found in the body. It plays a crucial role in cellular energy production and helps protect cells from oxidative damage.
2. Use:
Ubiquinone is commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties. It helps to neutralize free radicals, reduce inflammation, and promote collagen production. This can result in firmer, smoother, and more youthful-looking skin.
3. Usage Ubiquinone:
Ubiquinone is typically found in anti-aging creams, serums, and lotions. It is suitable for all skin types and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. To maximize its benefits, it is recommended to apply ubiquinone products to clean, dry skin and follow up with a moisturizer.
Precautions: While ubiquinone is generally considered safe for topical use, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to perform a patch test before using ubiquinone products on the face or body. Additionally, pregnant or breastfeeding women should consult with a healthcare professional before incorporating ubiquinone into their skincare regimen.
4. References:
- Katsiki, N., & Banach, M. (2018). Coenzyme Q10 and cardiovascular risk. A review. Journal of the American College of Cardiology, 71(16), 1696-1708.
- Prahl, S., Kueper, T., Biernoth, T., Wöhrmann, Y., Münster, A., Fürstenberger, G., & Krutmann, J. (2006). Aging skin is functionally anaerobic: importance of coenzyme Q10 for anti aging skin care. BioFactors, 32(1-4), 245-255.
- Blatt, T., Littarru, G. P., & Biochemistry, C. (1995). Biochemical rationale and experimental data on the antiaging properties of CoQ 10 at skin level. Biofactors, 6(3), 229-234.
Other Names: phosphatidylcholine; Lecithin; Lecithins; Soy Lecithin; Soybean Lecithin; Soya Lecithin
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant
1. Definition Lecithin:
Lecithin is a naturally occurring fatty substance that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and emulsifier. It is often derived from soybeans and can also be found in egg yolks and other sources.
2. Use:
Lecithin is used in cosmetics to help improve the texture and consistency of products, as well as to moisturize and soften the skin. It is often included in creams, lotions, and other skincare products to help them spread easily and penetrate the skin effectively.
3. Usage Lecithin:
When using products containing lecithin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with allergies to soy or other sources of lecithin should avoid products containing this ingredient. It is also recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions.
4. References:
- Magdassi, S., & Garti, N. (1999). Lecithin-based emulsions. Current Opinion in Colloid & Interface Science, 4(5), 311-316.
- Barauskas, J., & Nylander, T. (2005). Lecithin-based microemulsions. Langmuir, 21(2), 597-601.
- Komaiko, J. S., & McClements, D. J. (2016). Low-energy formation of edible nanoemulsions: Factors influencing droplet size produced by emulsion phase inversion. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, 434, 8-20.
Other Names: Endrate; Disodium Edetate; Disodium Salt; Disodium EDTA; Disodium dihydrogen ethylenediaminetetraacetate; EDTA Disodium Salt; EDTA-2Na
Function: Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling
1. Definition Disodium Edta:
Disodium EDTA, or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium salt, is a chelating agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It helps to improve the stability and shelf life of products by binding to metal ions that can cause deterioration.
2. Use:
Disodium EDTA is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative and stabilizer. It helps to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria, as well as maintain the texture and appearance of products. Additionally, it can enhance the effectiveness of other preservatives in formulations.
3. Usage Disodium Edta:
Disodium EDTA is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 0.5% in cosmetics. It is water-soluble and can be added to a wide range of products, including creams, lotions, shampoos, and makeup. However, it is important to note that while Disodium EDTA is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it and experience skin irritation. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Disodium EDTA, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTA. International Journal of Toxicology, 21(Suppl 2), 95-142.
- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). EDTA. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/edta/
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=184.1133
Function: Viscosity Controlling, Binding, Film Forming
1. Definition Pvm/ Ma Decadiene Crosspolymer:
Pvm/ Ma Decadiene Crosspolymer is a polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and film-former. It is a crosslinked copolymer of polyvinylpyrrolidone (Pvm) and maleic anhydride (Ma) with decadiene as the crosslinking agent.
2. Use:
Pvm/ Ma Decadiene Crosspolymer is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products. It helps to create a smooth and even application of makeup, skincare, and hair care products. It also helps to enhance the longevity of the product on the skin or hair by forming a thin film that adheres to the surface.
3. Usage Pvm/ Ma Decadiene Crosspolymer:
Pvm/ Ma Decadiene Crosspolymer is typically used in small concentrations in cosmetic formulations, ranging from 0.1% to 5%. It is compatible with a wide range of ingredients commonly found in cosmetics, such as water, oils, and emollients. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the desired texture and performance of the product.
Precautions: While Pvm/ Ma Decadiene Crosspolymer is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing this ingredient, especially if you have sensitive skin. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.
4. References:
- De Groot, A. C. (2016). Patch Testing and Prick Testing: A Practical Guide Official Publication of the ICDRG. Springer.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2016). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
- Winter, R. D. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.
Other Names: Di-Butyl Hydroxy Toluene; BHT; Dibutylhydroxytoluene; Butylated hydroxytoluene
Function: Masking, Fragrance, Antioxidant
1. Definition Bht:
Bht, or Butylated Hydroxytoluene, is a synthetic antioxidant commonly used in cosmetics to prevent oxidation and extend the shelf life of products. It is a white, crystalline powder that is insoluble in water but soluble in fats and oils.
2. Use:
Bht is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent the degradation of oils and fats in formulations. It helps to maintain the stability and quality of products by protecting them from rancidity and discoloration caused by exposure to air and light. Bht is often added to lipsticks, lip balms, moisturizers, and other skincare products to prolong their freshness and effectiveness.
3. Usage Bht:
When using cosmetics containing Bht, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines for application. It is generally considered safe for topical use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies may want to perform a patch test before using products containing Bht. It is recommended to store Bht-containing products in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their efficacy.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of BHT. International journal of toxicology, 7(5), 669-735.
- Food and Drug Administration. (2021). CFR - Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.110
- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). PubChem Compound Summary for CID 31404, Butylated hydroxytoluene. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylated-hydroxytoluene
Other Names: Carbonyl diamide; Carbamide
Function: Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Antistatic Agent, pH adjusting agent
1. Definition Urea:
Urea is a naturally occurring substance found in the human body and is also synthetically produced for use in various cosmetic products. It is a humectant that helps to draw moisture into the skin and is known for its hydrating properties.
2. Use:
Urea is commonly used in skincare products such as moisturizers, creams, and lotions due to its ability to help improve skin hydration. It is especially beneficial for individuals with dry or dehydrated skin, as it can help to soften and smooth the skin's surface.
3. Usage Urea:
When using skincare products containing urea, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is recommended to start with a small amount of product and gradually increase the frequency of use to prevent any potential skin irritation. Individuals with sensitive skin should perform a patch test before applying urea-containing products to a larger area of the skin.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences.
- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic dermatology: principles and practice. McGraw-Hill Medical.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2005). Dry skin and moisturizers: chemistry and function. CRC Press.
Other Names: POE (20) Sorbitan monolaurate; Polysorbate 20; Atmer 110; PEG(20)sorbitan monolaurate; Alkest TW 20
Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant
1. Definition Polysorbate 20:
Polysorbate 20 is a type of nonionic surfactant that is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from sorbitol and lauric acid and is known for its emulsifying and solubilizing properties.
2. Use:
Polysorbate 20 is primarily used as an emulsifier in cosmetics to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together. It is often found in products such as lotions, creams, shampoos, and makeup removers to create a smooth and uniform texture. Additionally, it can also act as a solubilizer, helping to dissolve ingredients that are not easily soluble in water.
3. Usage Polysorbate 20:
When using products containing polysorbate 20, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with polysorbate 20 to determine if any adverse reactions occur. Additionally, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective use.
4. References:
- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). Polysorbate 20. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polysorbate-20
- Personal Care Council. (2019). Polysorbate 20. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-dictionary/ingredient/2477
- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2009). Polysorbate 20. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Polysorbate-20
Other Names: KOH; Potassium Hydrate; Potash lye
Function: pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent
1. Definition Potassium Hydroxide:
Potassium Hydroxide, also known as caustic potash, is a strong alkaline compound that is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster and emulsifying agent.
2. Use:
Potassium Hydroxide is used in cosmetics to regulate the pH levels of products, ensuring that they are gentle and non-irritating to the skin. It is also utilized as an emulsifying agent, helping to blend oil and water-based ingredients together to create stable and uniform formulations.
3. Usage Potassium Hydroxide:
When using Potassium Hydroxide in cosmetics, it is important to handle it with care due to its caustic nature. Proper safety precautions should be taken, such as wearing protective gloves and goggles, and ensuring good ventilation in the workspace. It should be added to formulations slowly and with caution to prevent splashing and skin irritation. Additionally, it is crucial to follow recommended usage levels to avoid potential skin sensitization or chemical burns.
4. References:
- "Potassium Hydroxide." Cosmetics Info, cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/potassium-hydroxide.
- "Potassium Hydroxide in Cosmetics." Truth In Aging, truthinaging.com/ingredients/potassium-hydroxide.
- "Safety Assessment of Potassium Hydroxide as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/potassium.pdf.
Other Names: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE
Function: Fragrance, Preservative
1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:
Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.
2. Use:
Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.
3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:
When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.
