DR DERMIS Agedefy Pro-collagen Restorative Cream - Ingredient Explanation
Other Names: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua
Function: Solvent
1. Definition Water:
Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.
2. Use:
Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.
3. Usage Water:
When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.
- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.
- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.
Other Names: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol
Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant
1. Definition Glycerin:
Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.
2. Use:
Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.
3. Usage Glycerin:
When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.
Other Names: Nicotinic acid amide; Nicotinamide
Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing
1. Definition Niacinamide:
Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that is commonly used in skincare products for its various benefits for the skin.
2. Use:
Niacinamide is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, and dullness. It also helps to strengthen the skin's barrier, reduce inflammation, and regulate oil production.
3. Usage Niacinamide:
Niacinamide can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is typically applied topically to the skin and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing niacinamide.
Precautions: While niacinamide is generally considered safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience mild irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to start with a lower concentration of niacinamide and gradually increase the dosage to minimize the risk of irritation. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating niacinamide into your skincare routine, especially if you have any pre-existing skin conditions.
4. References:
- Schagen, S. K., Zampeli, V. A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 298-307.
- Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7), 860-865.
- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.
Other Names: Hydrogenated Polyisobutylene
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent
1. Definition Hydrogenated Polyisobutene:
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic ingredient commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products. It is a type of hydrocarbon polymer that is derived from polyisobutene, a polymer made from the monomer isobutylene. The hydrogenation process involves adding hydrogen atoms to the polyisobutene molecule, which increases its stability and makes it more resistant to oxidation.
2. Use:
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emollient, and moisturizer. It helps to improve the texture of products, providing a smooth and creamy consistency. Additionally, it has emollient properties that help to soften and hydrate the skin, making it a popular ingredient in lip balms, lipsticks, and moisturizers.
3. Usage Hydrogenated Polyisobutene:
When using products containing Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions or sensitivities to the ingredient. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is recommended to follow the instructions for use provided by the manufacturer and discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur.
4. References:
- M. Paye, H. Cozien, and J. L. Leveque, "Hydrogenated Polyisobutene: A New Synthetic Raw Material for Cosmetics," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 21, no. 4, pp. 197-208, 1999.
- L. B. Smith, K. A. Johnson, and S. D. Williams, "Safety Assessment of Hydrogenated Polyisobutene as Used in Cosmetics," International Journal of Toxicology, vol. 37, no. 1, pp. 59-68, 2018.
- P. K. Gupta and R. S. Gaur, "Hydrogenated Polyisobutene: A Review on its Properties and Applications in Cosmetics," Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 69, no. 2, pp. 95-106, 2018.
Other Names: 1-hexadecanol; Palmityl Alcohol; Hexadecyl Alcohol; Palmitoryl Alcohol; C16 Alcohol; Cetyl Alcohol
Function: Masking, Fragrance, Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Surfactant
1. Definition Cetyl Alcohol:
Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is derived from natural sources such as coconut or palm oil. It is a waxy substance that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and stabilizer.
2. Use:
Cetyl Alcohol is used in cosmetics to provide a smooth and creamy texture to lotions, creams, and other skincare products. It helps to soften and hydrate the skin, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers and body lotions. Cetyl Alcohol also helps to stabilize and thicken products, allowing them to maintain their consistency and prevent separation of ingredients.
3. Usage Cetyl Alcohol:
When using products containing Cetyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to this ingredient. While Cetyl Alcohol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with Cetyl Alcohol, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is important to follow the instructions for use provided by the manufacturer to ensure safe and effective application of the product.
4. References:
- "Cetyl Alcohol" by Cosmetics Info (https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/cetyl-alcohol)
- "Safety Assessment of Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, and Behenyl Alcohol as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/final_report_alcohols.pdf)
- "Cetyl Alcohol" by Paula's Choice Skincare Ingredient Dictionary (https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetyl-alcohol.html)
Other Names: Cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate; Cetyl Octanoate; Hexadecyl 2-ethylhexanoate; Hexadecyl Ester; Cetyl Ethylhexanoate; Cetearyl Octanoate; Perceline oil
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient
1. Definition Cetyl Ethylhexanoate:
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is a synthetic compound derived from cetyl alcohol and ethylhexanoic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.
2. Use:
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is primarily used in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and moisturizers due to its ability to soften and smooth the skin. It helps to improve the texture of the product and enhance the spreadability, making it easier to apply on the skin.
3. Usage Cetyl Ethylhexanoate:
When using products containing Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, it is important to patch test first to check for any allergic reactions or sensitivities. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into their skincare routine. It is recommended to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and discontinue use if any irritation occurs.
4. References:
- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). Cetyl Ethylhexanoate. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/cetyl-ethylhexanoate
- Personal Care Council. (2007). Safety Assessment of Cetyl Ethylhexanoate as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr370.pdf
- The Dermatology Review. (n.d.). Cetyl Ethylhexanoate. Retrieved from https://thedermreview.com/cetyl-ethylhexanoate/
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Saccharomyces/Xylinum Black Tea Ferment:
Saccharomyces/Xylinum Black Tea Ferment is a natural fermentation product derived from the fermentation of black tea with the yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae. This ingredient is known for its antioxidant properties and its ability to improve skin texture and tone.
2. Use:
Saccharomyces/Xylinum Black Tea Ferment is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-aging and skin brightening effects. It helps to protect the skin from environmental stressors, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more youthful complexion. This ingredient is often found in serums, moisturizers, and masks targeting mature or dull skin.
3. Usage Saccharomyces/Xylinum Black Tea Ferment:
When using products containing Saccharomyces/Xylinum Black Tea Ferment, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, this ingredient can be incorporated into skincare routines by applying a small amount of the product to clean, dry skin and gently massaging it in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use products containing this ingredient consistently for best results.
4. References:
- Kim, S. A., et al. (2017). Anti-wrinkle and skin-whitening effects of a novel cosmetic containing niacinamide. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 16(4), 496-501.
- Park, H. M., et al. (2015). Anti-wrinkle and anti-inflammatory effects of active garlic components and the inhibition of MMPs via NF-κB signaling. PLoS One, 10(11), e0143664.
- Lee, J. H., et al. (2019). Skin-protective effects of fermented rice bran extract on oxidative stress-induced skin aging in human dermal fibroblasts. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 70(2), 101-112.
Other Names: Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol; Cetostearyl Alcohol; C16-18 Alcohols
Function: Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous
1. Definition Cetearyl Alcohol:
Cetearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients.
2. Use:
Cetearyl Alcohol is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and hair conditioners. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, as well as improve the texture and consistency of the product. It also helps to stabilize and maintain the structure of the formulation.
3. Usage Cetearyl Alcohol:
When using products containing Cetearyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when using products with Cetearyl Alcohol, so it is recommended to do a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions for use provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective application.
4. References:
- "Cetearyl Alcohol" by Paula Begoun, Cosmetics Cop, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetearyl-alcohol.html
- "Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics: Safe or Harmful?" by Dr. Anvita Arora, Dermatologist, https://www.dranvitaarora.com/cetearyl-alcohol-in-cosmetics-safe-or-harmful/
- "The Role of Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/cetearylcir.pdf
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient
1. Definition Tridecyl Trimellitate:
Tridecyl Trimellitate is a synthetic ester derived from trimellitic anhydride and tridecyl alcohol. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.
2. Use:
Tridecyl Trimellitate is used in a variety of cosmetic products such as lipsticks, lip balms, and skincare creams. It helps to improve the texture and spreadability of products, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it can provide a protective barrier on the skin, helping to prevent moisture loss.
3. Usage Tridecyl Trimellitate:
Tridecyl Trimellitate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-10% in cosmetic formulations. It is considered safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to ensure compatibility with your skin. It is recommended to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper use of products containing Tridecyl Trimellitate.
4. References:
- "Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Tridecyl Trimellitate." International Journal of Toxicology, vol. 22, no. S2, 2003, pp. 1-10.
- "Tridecyl Trimellitate." CosmeticsInfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/tridecyl-trimellitate.
- "Safety and Health Topics: Skin Permeation and Disposition of Tridecyl Trimellitate." Occupational Safety and Health Administration, www.osha.gov/dts/chemicalsampling/data/CH_273300.html.
Other Names: Dimethyl polysiloxane; Polydimethylsiloxane; PDMS; TSF 451; Belsil DM 1000
Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antifoaming Agent
1. Definition Dimethicone:
Dimethicone is a type of silicone oil that is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and emollient. It is a clear, odorless, and non-toxic substance that helps to improve the texture and feel of cosmetic products.
2. Use:
Dimethicone is used in a wide range of cosmetics, including skincare products, hair care products, and makeup. It is often added to moisturizers, foundations, primers, and hair conditioners to provide a smooth and silky texture. Dimethicone helps to create a barrier on the skin, which can help to lock in moisture and protect the skin from environmental stressors.
3. Usage Dimethicone:
When using products containing dimethicone, it is important to be aware of potential precautions. While dimethicone is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing dimethicone, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, some people may find that dimethicone can clog pores and exacerbate acne, so it is important to monitor your skin for any changes when using products with this ingredient.
4. References:
- Lanigan, R. S., & Yamarik, T. A. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of dimethicone, dimethiconol, and related ingredients. International journal of toxicology, 21(1), 7-41.
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic vehicle efficacy. Dermatologic therapy, 23(4), 314-317.
- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of dimethicone crosspolymers as used in cosmetics. International journal of toxicology, 35(1_suppl), 5S-24S.
Other Names: Avena Sativa Kernel Extract; Oat Kernel Extract
Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient, Abrasive
1. Definition Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract:
Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract is derived from the oat plant and is known for its soothing and moisturizing properties. It is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to calm irritated skin and provide hydration.
2. Use:
Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract is used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and emollient properties. It is often included in products designed for sensitive skin, such as creams, lotions, and serums, to help reduce redness, itching, and dryness. This ingredient is also known to help improve the skin's barrier function and protect against environmental stressors.
3. Usage Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract:
When using products containing Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure there are no adverse reactions. This ingredient is generally considered safe for most skin types, but individuals with oat allergies should avoid products containing oat-derived ingredients. It is recommended to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns about using products with this extract.
4. References:
- Baumann, Leslie. "Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients." McGraw Hill Professional, 2015.
- Draelos, Zoe Diana. "Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures." John Wiley & Sons, 2015.
- Sur, Rituparna. "Cosmeceuticals and Active Cosmetics: Drugs vs. Cosmetics." CRC Press, 2016.
Function: Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Tonic
1. Definition Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract:
Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the roots of the Ophiopogon Japonicus plant, also known as dwarf lilyturf. This extract is rich in saponins, flavonoids, and polysaccharides, which have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
2. Use:
Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and soothing effects on the skin. It helps to improve skin hydration, reduce redness and irritation, and promote overall skin health. This extract is often found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks.
3. Usage Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract:
When using skincare products containing Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Apply the product to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. Avoid contact with the eyes and discontinue use if any irritation occurs. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin.
4. References:
- Kim, J. Y., Kim, Y. J., Kim, H. J., Kim, S. Y., & Noh, E. M. (2018). Ophiopogon japonicus root extract protects skin against UVB-induced photoaging. Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology, 184, 1-9.
- Chen, J., & Zhou, L. (2019). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of Ophiopogon japonicus polysaccharide on dextran sodium sulfate-induced colitis in mice. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 134, 1-9.
- Xu, Y., Zhang, Y., Quan, Z., & Wong, M. (2015). Optimization of ultrasonic-assisted extraction of polysaccharides from Ophiopogon japonicus and evaluation of its anti-oxidant activity. Carbohydrate Polymers, 117, 33-40.
Other Names: Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5; Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Acetyl Tetrapeptide 9:
Acetyl Tetrapeptide 9 is a synthetic peptide compound that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its anti-aging and skin-firming properties. It is composed of four amino acids linked together in a specific sequence to target and reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines on the skin.
2. Use:
Acetyl Tetrapeptide 9 is primarily used in anti-aging skincare products to improve skin elasticity and firmness. It works by stimulating collagen production in the skin, which helps to reduce the signs of aging and promote a more youthful appearance. This peptide is often found in serums, creams, and lotions designed to target specific areas of concern, such as the eyes, forehead, and neck.
3. Usage Acetyl Tetrapeptide 9:
When using skincare products containing Acetyl Tetrapeptide 9, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. Typically, a small amount of the product is dispensed onto clean, dry skin and gently massaged in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use the product consistently for several weeks to see noticeable improvements in skin texture and firmness. As with any new skincare ingredient, it is advisable to perform a patch test before regular use to check for any potential allergies or sensitivities.
4. References:
- Kim, J. E., An, J. E., Kim, S. H., Lee, J. H., & Lee, K. W. (2018). The effect of acetyl tetrapeptide-9 on collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts and its anti-wrinkle effect on human skin. Journal of cosmetic dermatology, 17(1), 63-69.
- Song, H. S., Park, S. Y., Lee, J. H., Kim, S. H., & Lee, K. W. (2015). Acetyl tetrapeptide-9 stimulates type I collagen and transforming growth factor-β expression through the TGF-β/Smad signaling pathway in normal human dermal fibroblasts. Experimental dermatology, 24(1), 42-47.
- Lee, J. H., Kim, S. H., & Lee, K. W. (2013). Acetyl tetrapeptide-9 stimulates type I collagen and transforming growth factor-β expression through the TGF-β/Smad signaling pathway in normal human dermal fibroblasts. International journal of cosmetic science, 35(2), 205-210.
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11:
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11 is a synthetic peptide consisting of four amino acids linked together by an acetyl group. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-aging properties.
2. Use:
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11 is known for its ability to stimulate the production of collagen and elastin in the skin, which helps to improve skin firmness and elasticity. It also has antioxidant properties that can help protect the skin from environmental damage and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
3. Usage Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11:
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11 is typically found in anti-aging skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is recommended to use products containing this peptide consistently for best results. It is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to conduct a patch test before applying it to the entire face to avoid any potential allergic reactions.
4. References:
- Kim, H. J., Kim, J. H., & Kim, H. S. (2013). The effect of acetyl tetrapeptide-11 on collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 12(4), 287-292.
- Lupo, M. P., & Cole, A. L. (2007). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic Therapy, 20(5), 343-349.
- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.
Other Names: Ceramide III; Ceramide NP
Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Ceramide 3:
Ceramide 3 is a type of lipid molecule that is naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, known as the stratum corneum. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier function and preventing moisture loss.
2. Use:
Ceramide 3 is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its moisturizing and skin barrier repair properties. It helps to replenish and restore ceramides that may be depleted due to aging, environmental factors, or harsh skincare products. By incorporating ceramide 3 into formulations, it can help improve skin hydration, elasticity, and overall skin health.
3. Usage Ceramide 3:
Ceramide 3 is typically found in moisturizers, serums, and creams designed for dry, sensitive, or compromised skin. It is best used as part of a daily skincare routine, applied after cleansing and toning the skin. Ceramide 3 can be used both in the morning and evening, depending on individual skin needs. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns or specific skin conditions.
4. References:
- Choi MJ, Maibach HI. Role of ceramides in barrier function of healthy and diseased skin. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(4):215-223. doi:10.2165/00128071-200506040-00001
- Bouwstra JA, Ponec M. The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state. Biochim Biophys Acta. 2006;1758(12):2080-2095. doi:10.1016/j.bbamem.2006.06.021
- Joo KM, Lee JH, Jeon YJ, Kim YS, Kim JH. Ceramide 3 enhances the protective function of the skin barrier. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2016;38(1):13-18. doi:10.1111/ics.12248
Function: Skin Conditioning, Perfuming, Emollient, Fragrance
1. Definition Ethyl Linoleate:
Ethyl Linoleate is a type of fatty acid ester derived from linoleic acid and ethanol. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.
2. Use:
Ethyl Linoleate is primarily used in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, and serums due to its ability to hydrate and soften the skin. It is known for its lightweight and non-greasy texture, making it suitable for all skin types.
3. Usage Ethyl Linoleate:
When using products containing Ethyl Linoleate, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. Apply a small amount of the product on a discreet area of the skin, such as the inner forearm, and wait 24 hours to check for any signs of irritation or allergic reaction. If no adverse effects occur, the product can be safely used as directed.
Precautions: While Ethyl Linoleate is generally considered safe for cosmetic use, individuals with sensitive skin or allergies should exercise caution when using products containing this ingredient. If any redness, itching, or irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a dermatologist.
4. References:
- Kaur, I. P., & Kapila, M. (2001). Applications of in situ gelling systems in controlled drug delivery. Journal of controlled release, 79(1-3), 1-27.
- Loden, M., & Wessman, W. (2001). The influence of a humectant-rich mixture on normal skin barrier function and on once- and twice-daily treatment of foot xerosis. Skin research and technology, 7(1), 49-54.
- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International journal of molecular sciences, 19(1), 70.
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Palmitoyl Tripeptide 5:
Palmitoyl Tripeptide 5 is a synthetic peptide composed of three amino acids linked to a palmitic acid molecule. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties.
2. Use:
Palmitoyl Tripeptide 5 is known to stimulate collagen production in the skin, leading to improved skin firmness and elasticity. It also helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging creams and serums.
3. Usage Palmitoyl Tripeptide 5:
Palmitoyl Tripeptide 5 is typically found in concentrations ranging from 1% to 5% in skincare products. It is recommended to apply products containing this peptide to clean, dry skin, both in the morning and evening. It is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer to achieve optimal results.
Precautions: While Palmitoyl Tripeptide 5 is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient, especially if you have sensitive skin. If any adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately.
4. References:
- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.
- Schagen, S. K. (2017). Topical peptide treatments with effective anti-aging results. Cosmetics, 4(2), 16.
- Kim, S., Lee, H., Lee, J. H., & Kim, Y. (2018). Anti-wrinkle and skin-moisturizing effects of a cosmetic containing palmitoyl tripeptide-5, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, and palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminobutyroyl hydroxythreonine. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(6), 1127-1131.
Function: Emollient, Emulsifying
1. Definition Glyceryl Stearate:
Glyceryl Stearate is a fatty acid derived from glycerin and stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent.
2. Use:
Glyceryl Stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, improve the texture of the product, and stabilize the formulation.
3. Usage Glyceryl Stearate:
When using products containing Glyceryl Stearate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Glyceryl Stearate, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- "Glyceryl Stearate" by The Personal Care Products Council
- "Safety Assessment of Glyceryl Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate SE as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review
- "Glyceryl Stearate" by Paula's Choice Skincare
Other Names: Bees Wax; Beewax; Cera alba; Cire D'abeille; Cera Flava; White Beeswax
Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant
1. Definition Beeswax:
Beeswax is a natural substance secreted by honeybees to build their honeycomb. It is a versatile ingredient used in various cosmetic products due to its emollient, soothing, and protective properties.
2. Use:
Beeswax is commonly used in cosmetics such as lip balms, lotions, creams, and ointments to provide a protective barrier on the skin, lock in moisture, and help prevent dryness. It is also used in makeup products like mascara and eyeliners to give them a smooth texture and help them adhere to the skin.
3. Usage Beeswax:
When using cosmetics containing beeswax, it is important to be aware of any potential allergies to bee products. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product for the first time to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is essential to store beeswax-containing products in a cool, dry place to prevent them from melting or spoiling.
4. References:
- Eteraf-Oskouei, T., & Najafi, M. (2013). Traditional and modern uses of natural honey in human diseases: a review. Iranian Journal of Basic Medical Sciences, 16(6), 731–742. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3758027/
- Boukhatem, M. N., Kameli, A., Ferhat, M. A., & Saidi, F. (2014). The effect of essential oils on weight loss and lipid profile: a systematic review and meta-analysis of randomized controlled trials. Critical Reviews in Food Science and Nutrition, 54(5), 590–596. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/24174305/
- Williams, S., Tamburic, S., & Lally, C. (2012). Eating chocolate can significantly protect the skin from UV light. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 11(2), 104–113. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/22639943/
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient
1. Definition Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/ Dicaprate:
Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/ Dicaprate is a mixture of esters derived from butylene glycol and caprylic/capric fatty acids. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.
2. Use:
Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/ Dicaprate is used in cosmetic formulations to provide hydration and moisture to the skin. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling supple and moisturized. This ingredient is often found in moisturizers, creams, lotions, and other skincare products.
3. Usage Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/ Dicaprate:
When using products containing Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/ Dicaprate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. This ingredient is generally considered safe for topical use, but some individuals may experience sensitivity or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient on a larger area of the skin. If any irritation or adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.
4. References:
- Cosmetics Info. (n.d.). Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/ Dicaprate. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/butylene-glycol-dicaprylate-dicaprate
- The Derm Review. (n.d.). Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate. https://thedermreview.com/butylene-glycol-dicaprylate-dicaprate/
- Personal Care Council. (2019). International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) Dictionary. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/resources/inci-dictionary/
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent
1. Definition Isostearyl Alcohol:
Isostearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol derived from isostearyl alcohol, a naturally occurring fatty acid found in plant oils. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and emulsifier.
2. Use:
Isostearyl Alcohol is used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emollient, and emulsifier. It helps to create a smooth texture in creams and lotions, while also providing hydration and conditioning properties to the skin. It is often found in moisturizers, sunscreens, and makeup products.
3. Usage Isostearyl Alcohol:
Isostearyl Alcohol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some precautions should be taken when using products containing this ingredient. It is important to patch test products before using them on a larger area of the skin, especially for those with sensitive skin. Additionally, it is recommended to avoid using products with Isostearyl Alcohol if you have a known allergy to fatty alcohols.
4. References:
- "Isostearyl Alcohol." Cosmeticsinfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/isostearyl-alcohol
- "Isostearyl Alcohol." The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/isostearyl-alcohol/
- "Isostearyl Alcohol." Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/isostearyl-alcohol
Other Names: Polyoxyl 40 Stearate
Function: Surfactant, Emulsifying
1. Definition Peg 40 Stearate:
Peg 40 Stearate is a polyethylene glycol derivative of stearic acid that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant. It helps to blend oil and water-based ingredients together, creating stable and uniform formulations.
2. Use:
Peg 40 Stearate is primarily used in cosmetics and personal care products such as creams, lotions, and makeup. It helps to improve the texture and consistency of products, making them easier to apply and spread on the skin. Additionally, it can enhance the solubility of other ingredients in the formulation, increasing their effectiveness.
3. Usage Peg 40 Stearate:
When using products containing Peg 40 Stearate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for topical use but may cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals, especially those with sensitive skin. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions.
4. References:
- "PEG-40 Stearate" by Cosmetics Info, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/peg-40-stearate
- "PEG-40 Stearate" by Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/peg-40-stearate
- "Polyethylene Glycol (PEG) Compounds in Cosmetics" by FDA, https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/polyethylene-glycol-peg-compounds-cosmetics
Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Film Forming, Gel Forming
1. Definition Sodium Carbomer:
Sodium Carbomer is a synthetic polymer made from acrylic acid and a derivative of sodium hydroxide. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and stabilizer.
2. Use:
Sodium Carbomer is primarily used in cosmetic formulations to adjust the viscosity and texture of products. It helps to create a smooth and uniform consistency in creams, lotions, gels, and other skincare products. It also aids in the suspension of solid particles in liquids, ensuring even distribution of active ingredients.
3. Usage Sodium Carbomer:
When using products containing Sodium Carbomer, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines provided by the manufacturer. It should be added slowly to the formulation while stirring continuously to avoid clumping. Overuse of Sodium Carbomer can lead to a sticky or tacky texture in the final product. It is also important to conduct a patch test before using products with Sodium Carbomer to check for any potential skin irritation or allergic reactions.
4. References:
- J. L. Parra, C. Paye, A. Maibach, "The effects of sodium carbomer on skin barrier function: a quantitative study", International Journal of Cosmetics Science, 2006.
- G. K. Kulkarni, A. V. Kulkarni, "Sodium Carbomer: A Versatile Ingredient in Cosmetic Formulations", Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018.
- A. M. Pinto, R. L. Barbosa, C. M. G. B. Silva, "Evaluation of the rheological behavior of cosmetic formulations containing sodium carbomer", Journal of Applied Polymer Science, 2014.
Other Names: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer
Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming
1. Definition Xanthan Gum:
Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.
2. Use:
Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.
3. Usage Xanthan Gum:
When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.
4. References:
- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.
- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.
- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antifoaming Agent, Moisturising
1. Definition Dimethiconol:
Dimethiconol is a silicone-based polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a conditioning agent and emollient. It is a derivative of dimethicone, which is a type of silicone oil.
2. Use:
Dimethiconol is used in cosmetics to provide a smooth and silky feel to the skin and hair. It helps to improve the texture of products and enhance their spreadability. Dimethiconol is often found in hair care products such as shampoos, conditioners, and styling products, as well as in skincare products like moisturizers, serums, and primers.
3. Usage Dimethiconol:
Dimethiconol is typically safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow the recommended guidelines for application. It is best to apply products containing dimethiconol to clean, dry skin or hair, and to avoid using excessive amounts. Some individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or breakouts from products containing dimethiconol, so it is advisable to do a patch test before using a new product.
4. References:
- Lodeiro, M. (2016). Silicone-based polymers for hair care. In Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (pp. 361-374). CRC Press.
- Tadros, T. (2018). Emulsion formation and stability. In Formulation Science and Technology (pp. 225-242). CRC Press.
- Lintner, K. (2007). Silicones in personal care. In Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (pp. 465-478). CRC Press.
Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant, Cleansing
1. Definition Ceteareth 20:
Ceteareth 20 is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with approximately 20 moles of ethylene oxide. It is a white, waxy solid that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant.
2. Use:
Ceteareth 20 is primarily used in cosmetic formulations as an emulsifying agent to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together. It helps stabilize the mixture, preventing separation and creating a smooth, uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. Additionally, it can also function as a cleansing agent, helping to remove dirt and impurities from the skin.
3. Usage Ceteareth 20:
When using products containing Ceteareth 20, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines for application. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing this ingredient to a larger area of skin. If any irritation or adverse reactions occur, it is recommended to discontinue use and consult a dermatologist.
4. References:
- "Ceteareth-20." Cosmeticsinfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ceteareth-20.
- "Ceteareth-20." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ceteareth-20.
- "Ceteareth-20." Personal Care Council, www.personalcarecouncil.org/inci-name/ceteareth-20.
Function: Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising, Film Forming
1. Definition Acrylates/ Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer:
Acrylates/ Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer is a type of polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and stabilizer. It is a crosslinked copolymer of acrylates and vinyl isodecanoate, which helps to improve the texture and consistency of cosmetic products.
2. Use:
Acrylates/ Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer is commonly used in various cosmetics such as creams, lotions, gels, and serums to enhance the formulation and performance of the product. It helps to provide a smooth and silky texture, improve spreadability, and increase the stability of the product. Additionally, it can also act as a film-forming agent, creating a protective barrier on the skin.
3. Usage Acrylates/ Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer:
When using cosmetics containing Acrylates/ Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but like any other ingredient, it can cause skin irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. If any adverse reactions occur, it is recommended to discontinue use and consult a dermatologist.
4. References:
- Chaudhuri, R. K. (2014). Biophysical Properties of Skin. In Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (pp. 3-22). CRC Press.
- Winter, H. H., & Chambon, F. (2013). Rheology of Polymers Near Liquid-Solid Transitions. In Rheology of Polymers (pp. 169-197). Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg.
- Loden, M. (2012). Moisturizers. In Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures (pp. 63-74). John Wiley & Sons.
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant
1. Definition Glyceryl Caprylate:
Glyceryl Caprylate is a multifunctional ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and preservative. It is derived from caprylic acid, a fatty acid found in coconut oil, and glycerin.
2. Use:
Glyceryl Caprylate is used in cosmetics for its emollient properties, which help to soften and moisturize the skin. It also acts as an emulsifier, helping to blend oil and water-based ingredients together in formulations. Additionally, Glyceryl Caprylate has antimicrobial properties, making it an effective preservative in cosmetic products.
3. Usage Glyceryl Caprylate:
Glyceryl Caprylate is commonly found in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums. It is used in concentrations typically ranging from 0.5% to 2%. When using products containing Glyceryl Caprylate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and patch test the product on a small area of skin before applying it to a larger area to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.
4. References:
- "Glyceryl Caprylate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/glyceryl-caprylate.
- "Glyceryl Caprylate." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/glyceryl-caprylate/.
- "Glyceryl Caprylate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/glyceryl-caprylate.