Fresh Rose Hydrating Gel Moisturiser - Ingredient Explanation
Other Names: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua
Function: Solvent
1. Definition Water:
Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.
2. Use:
Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.
3. Usage Water:
When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.
- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.
- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.
Other Names: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol
Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant
1. Definition Glycerin:
Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.
2. Use:
Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.
3. Usage Glycerin:
When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.
Other Names: TMF-1.5
Function: Solvent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Methyl Trimethicone:
Methyl Trimethicone is a type of silicone-based compound commonly used in cosmetics as a conditioning agent and emollient. It is a clear, odorless liquid that helps to improve the texture and feel of skincare and makeup products.
2. Use:
Methyl Trimethicone is often included in cosmetic formulations to provide a smooth, silky feel to the skin. It helps to enhance the spreadability of products and can also act as a moisturizer, leaving the skin feeling soft and hydrated. Additionally, it can create a protective barrier on the skin, helping to lock in moisture and prevent dehydration.
3. Usage Methyl Trimethicone:
Methyl Trimethicone is typically found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including foundations, primers, moisturizers, and hair care products. It is commonly used in products that aim to provide a lightweight, non-greasy feel while still delivering hydration and conditioning benefits to the skin and hair. When using products containing Methyl Trimethicone, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to perform a patch test on a small area of skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2019). Final report on the safety assessment of Methyl Trimethicone. International Journal of Toxicology, 38(3), 1-14.
- Personal Care Products Council. (2020). Methyl Trimethicone. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient/methyl-trimethicone/
- Farwick, M., et al. (2017). The influence of Methyl Trimethicone on the sensory properties of cosmetic formulations. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 68(2), 113-124.
Function: Viscosity Controlling
1. Definition Dimethicone/ Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer:
Dimethicone/ Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer is a silicone-based polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and texture enhancer. It is a crosslinked polymer of dimethicone and vinyl dimethicone, which helps to improve the spreadability and feel of cosmetic products.
2. Use:
Dimethicone/ Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer is often used in skincare and makeup products such as primers, foundations, lotions, and creams. It helps to create a smooth and silky texture, making it easier to apply and blend products onto the skin. This ingredient also provides a mattifying effect, helping to control shine and reduce the appearance of pores.
3. Usage Dimethicone/ Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer:
When using products containing Dimethicone/ Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions or sensitivities to the ingredient. This ingredient is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience irritation or breakouts. It is recommended to follow the instructions on the product packaging and discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur.
4. References:
- "Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer." Cosmeticsinfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/dimethiconevinyl-dimethicone-crosspolymer
- "Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer." Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/dimethiconevinyl-dimethicone-crosspolymer
- "Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer." The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/dimethicone-vinyl-dimethicone-crosspolymer/
Other Names: Sodium Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer; (Eau D'Hamamelis) Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Function: Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising
1. Definition Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer:
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer. It is a copolymer of hydroxyethyl acrylate and sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate, which helps improve the texture and consistency of cosmetic products.
2. Use:
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, serums, and gels. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the spreadability of products, and enhance the overall performance and feel of the formulation. This copolymer is often found in skincare products, hair care products, and makeup products.
3. Usage Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer:
When using products containing Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final report on the safety assessment of acrylates copolymer and 33 related cosmetic ingredients. International Journal of Toxicology. 2001;20 Suppl 1:1-50.
- Personal Care Products Council. Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer. Accessed from: https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/hydroxyethyl-acrylatesodium-acryloyldimethyl-taurate-copolymer
- European Commission. CosIng - Cosmetics - Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer. Accessed from: https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/index.cfm?fuseaction=search.details_v2&id=76317
Other Names: Dimethyl polysiloxane; Polydimethylsiloxane; PDMS; TSF 451; Belsil DM 1000
Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antifoaming Agent
1. Definition Dimethicone:
Dimethicone is a type of silicone oil that is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and emollient. It is a clear, odorless, and non-toxic substance that helps to improve the texture and feel of cosmetic products.
2. Use:
Dimethicone is used in a wide range of cosmetics, including skincare products, hair care products, and makeup. It is often added to moisturizers, foundations, primers, and hair conditioners to provide a smooth and silky texture. Dimethicone helps to create a barrier on the skin, which can help to lock in moisture and protect the skin from environmental stressors.
3. Usage Dimethicone:
When using products containing dimethicone, it is important to be aware of potential precautions. While dimethicone is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing dimethicone, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, some people may find that dimethicone can clog pores and exacerbate acne, so it is important to monitor your skin for any changes when using products with this ingredient.
4. References:
- Lanigan, R. S., & Yamarik, T. A. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of dimethicone, dimethiconol, and related ingredients. International journal of toxicology, 21(1), 7-41.
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic vehicle efficacy. Dermatologic therapy, 23(4), 314-317.
- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of dimethicone crosspolymers as used in cosmetics. International journal of toxicology, 35(1_suppl), 5S-24S.
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Abrasive
1. Definition Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil Extract:
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil Extract is a natural oil derived from the seeds of the jojoba plant. It is known for its moisturizing and emollient properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and hair care products.
2. Use:
Jojoba Seed Oil Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin. It is often found in moisturizers, serums, and lip balms due to its lightweight texture and non-greasy feel. Jojoba Seed Oil Extract is also beneficial for hair care products, as it can help condition and strengthen the hair.
3. Usage Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil Extract:
When using products containing Jojoba Seed Oil Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. It can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or used as an ingredient in DIY beauty recipes. Jojoba Seed Oil Extract is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with allergies to nuts or seeds should use caution.
4. References:
- Paula Begoun. (2003). "Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me." 7th Edition.
- Dweck, A. C. (2003). "The Jojoba Story." Personal Care Magazine, 4(1), 1-4.
- Meier, L., & Sticher, O. (2004). "Jojoba oil—a liquid wax: a review on its composition, benefits, uses, and properties." Revista Brasileira de Farmacognosia, 14(1), 1-6.
Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking, Skin Protecting
1. Definition Rosa Damascena Flower Water:
Rosa Damascena Flower Water, also known as rose water, is a fragrant water made by distilling rose petals. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing and hydrating properties.
2. Use:
Rosa Damascena Flower Water is often used in cosmetics as a natural toner and astringent. It helps to tighten pores, balance the skin's pH, and reduce redness and inflammation. Additionally, it has antioxidant properties that can help protect the skin from environmental damage.
3. Usage Rosa Damascena Flower Water:
Rosa Damascena Flower Water can be used in a variety of ways in skincare routines. It can be applied directly to the skin after cleansing as a toner, or mixed with other ingredients to create DIY face masks, mists, or serums. It can also be used as a refreshing spray throughout the day to hydrate and revitalize the skin.
Precautions: While Rosa Damascena Flower Water is generally safe for most skin types, it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on the face to check for any potential allergies or sensitivities. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately.
4. References:
- Tabassum, N., & Hamdani, M. (2014). Plants used in cosmetics. Phytopharmacology, 5(2), 133-143.
- Riaz, A., & Rasul, A. (2013). Rose water: a natural gift for skincare. International Journal of Chemical and Biochemical Sciences, 4(2), 62-67.
- Boskabady, M. H., Shafei, M. N., Saberi, Z., & Amini, S. (2011). Pharmacological effects of Rosa damascena. Iranian Journal of Basic Medical Sciences, 14(4), 295-307.
Other Names: Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Emollient
1. Definition Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Extract:
Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the Aloe Vera plant, known for its soothing and healing properties. It is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its moisturizing and anti-inflammatory benefits.
2. Use:
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and soothe the skin. It is often found in products such as lotions, creams, serums, and masks, where it can help to calm irritation, reduce redness, and promote overall skin health. Aloe Vera extract is also known for its antioxidant properties, which can help protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging.
3. Usage Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Extract:
When using products containing Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. Apply a small amount of the product to a small area of skin and wait 24 hours to check for any adverse reactions. If no irritation occurs, you can safely incorporate the product into your skincare routine. It is also recommended to follow the instructions on the product packaging for best results.
4. References:
- Surjushe, A., Vasani, R., & Saple, D. G. (2008). Aloe vera: A short review. Indian journal of dermatology, 53(4), 163–166. https://doi.org/10.4103/0019-5154.44785
- Radha, M. H., & Laxmipriya, N. P. (2015). Evaluation of biological properties and clinical effectiveness of Aloe vera: A systematic review. Journal of traditional and complementary medicine, 5(1), 21–26. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jtcme.2014.10.006
- Paulsen, E., Korsholm, L., & Brandrup, F. (2005). A double-blind, placebo-controlled study of a commercial Aloe vera gel in the treatment of slight to moderate psoriasis vulgaris. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 19(3), 326–331. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-3083.2005.01203.x
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient
1. Definition Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract:
Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract is a botanical extract derived from the fruit of the cucumber plant. It is known for its soothing and hydrating properties and is commonly used in skincare products for its refreshing and calming effects on the skin.
2. Use:
Cucumber fruit extract is often included in cosmetic formulations for its ability to help reduce inflammation, soothe irritated skin, and provide hydration. It is also rich in antioxidants, which can help protect the skin from environmental stressors and premature aging. Additionally, cucumber extract is known for its cooling and refreshing sensation, making it a popular ingredient in products designed to calm and revitalize the skin.
3. Usage Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract:
Cucumber fruit extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, masks, and eye creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied directly to the skin or mixed with other ingredients to enhance its benefits. When using products containing cucumber extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and perform a patch test to ensure compatibility with your skin.
4. References:
- Kim, S., Lee, S., & Lee, S. (2018). Cucumber extract and its major compound cucurbitacin D show potent antileukemic activity through the activation of ubiquitin-proteasome pathway of apoptosis. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(3), 772.
- Mukherjee, P. K., Maity, N., Nema, N. K., & Sarkar, B. K. (2013). Phytochemical and therapeutic potential of cucumber. Fitoterapia, 84, 227-236.
- Yoon, J., Kwon, H. H., Min, S., & Thiboutot, D. M. (2018). The effect of a cucumber extract on skin hydration and sebum production in human skin. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(6), 391-397.
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Skin Protecting, Antioxidant, Astringent
1. Definition Angelica Keiskei Extract:
Angelica Keiskei Extract, also known as Ashitaba extract, is derived from the leaves of the Angelica keiskei plant, native to Japan. It is known for its rich antioxidant properties and is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging and skin-rejuvenating benefits.
2. Use:
Angelica Keiskei Extract is used in cosmetics for its ability to promote collagen production, improve skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It also helps to protect the skin from environmental damage and oxidative stress, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging skincare products.
3. Usage Angelica Keiskei Extract:
Angelica Keiskei Extract can be found in various forms in cosmetics, including serums, creams, and masks. When using products containing this extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on the entire face to check for any allergic reactions or sensitivity. As with any skincare ingredient, it is best to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating Angelica Keiskei Extract into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or existing skin conditions.
4. References:
- Lee, K. H., et al. (2016). Protective effect of Angelica keiskei extract against oxidative stress-induced cellular senescence. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(3), 243-249.
- Kim, S. H., et al. (2018). Anti-aging effects of Angelica keiskei extract on human skin fibroblasts. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 138(5), S49.
- Park, J. Y., et al. (2019). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of Angelica keiskei extract for skin protection. Journal of Dermatological Science, 94(2), e45.
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Porphyridium Cruentum Extract:
Porphyridium Cruentum Extract is a type of red algae extract that is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and moisturizing properties. It is rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins, and minerals, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.
2. Use:
Porphyridium Cruentum Extract is commonly used in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks due to its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin. It is also known for its ability to protect the skin from environmental stressors and promote a healthy complexion. Additionally, it can help to improve the skin's elasticity and firmness, making it a valuable ingredient in anti-aging products.
3. Usage Porphyridium Cruentum Extract:
When using skincare products containing Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions. Additionally, it is best to store products containing this extract in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their efficacy.
4. References:
- P. Gantar, A. D. Svirčev, M. P. M. Perić, Chapter 26 - Porphyridium, in: M. Levine (Ed.), The Handbook of Microalgae-Based Processes and Products, Academic Press, 2020, Pages 519-535.
- L. N. Gómez-Loredo, R. Jiménez-Bremont, L. M. Rodríguez-Zavala, E. M. Valdez-Flores, A. C. Martínez-Téllez, Evaluation of the antioxidant activity of Porphyridium cruentum extract in human keratinocytes, Journal of Applied Phycology 32 (2020) 3433-3442.
- M. A. O. Barbosa, A. P. S. de Souza, R. B. de Souza, M. F. P. de Souza, R. A. M. de Oliveira, M. C. B. de Oliveira, Evaluation of the anti-inflammatory activity of Porphyridium cruentum in mice, Inflammopharmacology 29 (2021) 1061-1070.
Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking
1. Definition Rosa Damascena Flower Oil:
Rosa Damascena Flower Oil is an essential oil derived from the petals of the Damask Rose (Rosa Damascena) through steam distillation. It is known for its sweet, floral fragrance and is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its soothing and hydrating properties.
2. Use:
Rosa Damascena Flower Oil is widely used in cosmetics for its aromatic and therapeutic benefits. It is a popular ingredient in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and face oils due to its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin. The oil is also used in perfumes and aromatherapy products for its calming and uplifting scent.
3. Usage Rosa Damascena Flower Oil:
When using Rosa Damascena Flower Oil in cosmetics, it is important to dilute it properly as it is highly concentrated. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to the skin to check for any allergic reactions. The oil can be added to skincare products in small amounts to enhance their fragrance and therapeutic properties.
4. References:
- Baser, K. H. C., & Buchbauer, G. (2010). Handbook of Essential Oils: Science, Technology, and Applications. CRC Press.
- Ali, A., & Al-Wabel, N. A. (2015). Essential oils used in aromatherapy: A systemic review. Asian Pacific Journal of Tropical Biomedicine, 5(8), 601-611.
- Al-Snafi, A. E. (2016). The pharmacological activities of Rosa damascena - A review. IOSR Journal of Pharmacy, 6(6), 46-51.
Other Names: Extrait de levure; Faex; Saccharomyce; Saccharomyces lysate; Live Yeast Extract; Yeast
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Faex:
Faex, commonly known as yeast extract, is a natural ingredient derived from the fermentation of yeast. It is rich in vitamins, minerals, amino acids, and antioxidants, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetics.
2. Use:
Faex is used in cosmetics for its nourishing and revitalizing properties. It helps to improve skin texture, promote cell regeneration, and enhance overall skin health. Faex is often found in products such as serums, creams, and masks, targeting various skin concerns including aging, dryness, and dullness.
3. Usage Faex:
When using cosmetics containing Faex, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to ensure compatibility with your skin. As with any skincare product, if irritation or adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a dermatologist.
4. References:
- Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7), 860-865.
- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., & Roeder, A. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical Interventions in Aging, 1(4), 327-348.
- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70.
Function: Emollient
1. Definition Rhodiola Crenulata Root Extract:
Rhodiola Crenulata Root Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the roots of the Rhodiola crenulata plant, also known as Tibetan Rhodiola. This extract is rich in antioxidants, flavonoids, and phenolic compounds, which contribute to its potential benefits for the skin.
2. Use:
Rhodiola Crenulata Root Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, and skin-soothing properties. It helps to protect the skin from environmental stressors, reduce redness and irritation, and improve the overall appearance of the skin. This extract is often found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks.
3. Usage Rhodiola Crenulata Root Extract:
When using products containing Rhodiola Crenulata Root Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions. As with any new skincare ingredient, it is best to start with a small amount and gradually increase the usage to assess how your skin reacts.
4. References:
- Lee, J. (2018). Rhodiola crenulata root extract protects human skin cells against UVB-induced damage. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(2), 269-275.
- Jeong, M. R., et al. (2014). Anti-inflammatory effects of Rhodiola crenulata root extract in a rat model of allergic rhinitis. Phytotherapy Research, 28(3), 305-311.
- Wang, Y., et al. (2016). Antioxidant and anti-aging effects of Rhodiola crenulata root extract in human skin cells. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 191, 23-31.
Other Names: Hyaluronic Acid Sodium Salt; Kopuron
Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Sodium Hyaluronate:
Sodium Hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring substance in the human body that is known for its ability to retain moisture and improve skin hydration.
2. Use:
Sodium Hyaluronate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and skin-plumping properties. It is a popular ingredient in anti-aging products due to its ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by hydrating the skin and promoting collagen production.
3. Usage Sodium Hyaluronate:
When using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either in the form of a serum, cream, or mask. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.
Precautions: While Sodium Hyaluronate is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, it is always recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions. Additionally, it is important to avoid using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate if you are allergic to hyaluronic acid or any other ingredients in the product.
4. References:
- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.
- Pavicic, T., Gauglitz, G. G., Lersch, P., Schwach-Abdellaoui, K., Malle, B., & Korting, H. C. (2011). Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD, 10(9), 990-1000.
- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.
Other Names: Tocopherol Acetate; α-Tocopheryl Acetate; Vitamin E Acetate; Vit-E Acetate; dl-a-tocopheryl acetate; Tocophery Acetate; dl-α-Tocopheryl Acetate; DL-alpha-Tocopherol acetate; alpha-Tocopherol acetate
Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant
1. Definition Tocopheryl Acetate:
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products. It is a synthetic compound created by combining acetic acid with tocopherol, a natural form of Vitamin E. Tocopheryl Acetate is known for its antioxidant properties, which help protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.
2. Use:
Tocopheryl Acetate is often included in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and anti-aging benefits. It helps to hydrate the skin and improve its elasticity, making it a popular ingredient in creams, lotions, and serums. Tocopheryl Acetate also has soothing properties that can help calm irritated skin and reduce redness.
3. Usage Tocopheryl Acetate:
When using products containing Tocopheryl Acetate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and apply the product as directed. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. It is recommended to store products containing Tocopheryl Acetate in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain its stability and effectiveness.
4. References:
- Cosmetics Info. (n.d.). Tocopheryl Acetate. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/tocopheryl-acetate
- Paula's Choice. (n.d.). Vitamin E for Skin. Retrieved from https://www.paulaschoice.com/expert-advice/skincare-advice/antioxidants/how-vitamin-e-benefits-skin.html
- Healthline. (2021). The Benefits of Vitamin E for Your Skin. Retrieved from https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/vitamin-e-for-skin#benefits
Function: Surfactant, Emulsifying
1. Definition Glyceryl Oleate Citrate:
Glyceryl Oleate Citrate is an emulsifier and skin conditioning agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a combination of glyceryl oleate, a derivative of olive oil, and citric acid, which helps to stabilize emulsions and improve the texture of skincare products.
2. Use:
Glyceryl Oleate Citrate is primarily used in skincare formulations such as creams, lotions, and serums to help blend water and oil-based ingredients together. It also acts as a moisturizer and emollient, leaving the skin feeling soft and smooth. Additionally, it can enhance the absorption of other active ingredients, making it a popular choice in anti-aging and hydrating products.
3. Usage Glyceryl Oleate Citrate:
When using products containing Glyceryl Oleate Citrate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. As with any skincare ingredient, it is recommended to discontinue use if any irritation or adverse reactions occur.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2015). Cosmetic dermatology: Products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry skin and moisturizers: Chemistry and function. CRC Press.
- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic dermatology: Principles and practice. McGraw-Hill Professional.
Other Names: 1,3 Butylene Glycol; Butane-1,3-diol; Butylene Alcohol; Butanediol; 1,3-Butandiol; 1,3-Butanediol; 1,3-Dihydroxybutane
Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents
1. Definition Butylene Glycol:
Butylene Glycol is a small organic alcohol used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity-decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is derived from petroleum or natural gas.
2. Use:
Butylene Glycol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, a humectant to attract moisture to the skin, and a viscosity-decreasing agent to improve the texture and spreadability of the product. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve product absorption, and create a smooth, lightweight feel.
3. Usage Butylene Glycol:
Butylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to patch test products containing Butylene Glycol before use, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and avoid using products with Butylene Glycol if you have known allergies to similar ingredients.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2001). Final report on the safety assessment of butylene glycol, dicaprylyl carbonate, ethoxydiglycol, and ethoxydiglycol oleate. International Journal of Toxicology, 20(Suppl 4), 61-75.
- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 24856, Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylene-glycol
- Personal Care Products Council. (2017). Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/butylene-glycol
Other Names: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Function: Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient
1. Definition Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a combination of fatty acids derived from coconut oil and glycerin. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.
2. Use:
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is used in various cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums to provide moisturization and improve the texture of the skin. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and nourished.
3. Usage Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some precautions should be taken. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride into their skincare routine.
4. References:
- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/capryliccapric-triglyceride.
- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/caprylic-capric-triglyceride/.
- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/capryliccapric-triglyceride.
Other Names: Tween 60; POE (20) Sorbitan monostearate; Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monostearate
Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant
1. Definition Polysorbate 60:
Polysorbate 60 is a nonionic surfactant that is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a yellowish liquid that is derived from sorbitol and oleic acid.
2. Use:
Polysorbate 60 is used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, stabilizer, and solubilizer. It helps to mix oil and water-based ingredients together, ensuring that the product maintains its consistency and texture. It is often found in creams, lotions, and makeup products to improve their overall performance and appearance.
3. Usage Polysorbate 60:
When using products containing Polysorbate 60, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. While it is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Polysorbate 60 to ensure compatibility with your skin.
4. References:
- "Polysorbate 60." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polysorbate-60.
- "Polysorbate 60." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/polysorbate-60.
- "Polysorbate 60." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/polysorbate-60/.
Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant
1. Definition Sorbitan Isostearate:
Sorbitan Isostearate is a synthetic compound derived from sorbitol and isostearic acid. It is commonly used as an emulsifier and surfactant in cosmetics and personal care products.
2. Use:
Sorbitan Isostearate is primarily used in cosmetics as an emulsifier to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together. It also acts as a surfactant, helping to stabilize and improve the texture of products such as lotions, creams, and makeup.
3. Usage Sorbitan Isostearate:
Sorbitan Isostearate is considered safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products when used in accordance with regulations and guidelines. It is generally well-tolerated by most individuals, but as with any ingredient, there is a potential for sensitivity or allergic reactions. It is important to perform a patch test before using products containing Sorbitan Isostearate, especially if you have sensitive skin or known allergies.
4. References:
- "Sorbitan Isostearate" Cosmetics Info, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sorbitan-isostearate
- "Sorbitan Isostearate" Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/sorbitan-isostearate
- "Sorbitan Isostearate" The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/sorbitan-isostearate/
Other Names: Sodium Acid Citrate
Function: Masking, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Chelating
1. Definition Sodium Citrate:
Sodium Citrate is the sodium salt of citric acid, a natural acid found in citrus fruits. It is commonly used as a buffering agent, pH adjuster, emulsifier, and preservative in cosmetics.
2. Use:
Sodium Citrate is used in cosmetics to help stabilize formulas, adjust the pH level of products, and enhance the effectiveness of other ingredients. It is often found in skincare products, such as lotions, creams, and serums, as well as in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners.
3. Usage Sodium Citrate:
When using products containing Sodium Citrate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.
4. References:
- "Sodium Citrate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sodium-citrate.
- "Sodium Citrate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/sodium-citrate.
- "Sodium Citrate in Cosmetics." Personal Care Council, www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-issues-cosmetic-products/sodium-citrate-in-cosmetics/.
Other Names: EDTA-4Na; Tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate
Function: Chelating Agent
1. Definition Tetrasodium Edta:
Tetrasodium EDTA, also known as ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, is a chelating agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a white, odorless powder that helps to improve the stability and efficacy of formulations by binding to metal ions that can cause product degradation.
2. Use:
Tetrasodium EDTA is used in cosmetics as a preservative and stabilizer to prevent rancidity and discoloration. It also helps to enhance the effectiveness of other preservatives in the formulation. Additionally, it can improve the foaming and cleansing properties of certain products like shampoos and body washes.
3. Usage Tetrasodium Edta:
Tetrasodium EDTA is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used within the recommended concentrations. However, it is important to follow the guidelines provided by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel to ensure safe usage. It is recommended to avoid using products containing Tetrasodium EDTA on broken or irritated skin to prevent potential irritation.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2008). Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTA. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(Suppl 1), 93-128.
- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Tetrasodium EDTA. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/tetrasodium-edta/
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2021). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=184.1751
Function: Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent
1. Definition Citric Acid:
Citric acid is a weak organic acid that is naturally found in citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and limes. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, preservative, and exfoliant.
2. Use:
Citric acid is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, which helps to maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is also used as a preservative to extend the shelf life of cosmetics by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, citric acid is used as an exfoliant in skincare products to help slough off dead skin cells and promote cell turnover.
3. Usage Citric Acid:
When using cosmetics containing citric acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. Citric acid can be irritating to the skin, especially in high concentrations, so it is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to avoid using products containing citric acid on broken or irritated skin, as this can further aggravate the condition.
4. References:
- "Citric Acid in Cosmetics: Is It Safe?" by Healthline
- "The Role of Citric Acid in Cosmetics" by The Derm Review
- "Citric Acid: Benefits, Uses, and Side Effects" by Verywell Health
Other Names: C12-14 pareth-12
Function: Surfactant, Emulsifying
1. Definition C12 14 Pareth 12:
C12-14 Pareth-12 is a type of synthetic compound that belongs to the group of polyethylene glycol ethers. It is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products as an emulsifier, surfactant, and cleansing agent.
2. Use:
C12-14 Pareth-12 is used in cosmetics to help mix oil and water-based ingredients together, creating stable emulsions. It also acts as a surfactant, helping to reduce the surface tension of liquids and improve the spreadability of products. Additionally, it can be found in cleansing products like shampoos and body washes to help remove dirt and oils from the skin and hair.
3. Usage C12 14 Pareth 12:
When using products containing C12-14 Pareth-12, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if irritation or allergic reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.
4. References:
- "Safety Assessment of PEG-12 C12-15 Alkyl Ether and PEG-12 C12-15 Pareth-12 as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel, 2017.
- "Polyethylene Glycol (PEG) Compounds in Cosmetics: What Is Safe?" by the Environmental Working Group, 2020.
- "Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology" edited by André O. Barel, Marc Paye, and Howard I. Maibach, 2001.
Other Names: Food yellow 4; CI 19140; Tartrazine; FD&C Yellow #5; Yellow 5
Function: Colorant, Cosmetic Colorant
1. Definition CI 19140:
CI 19140, also known as Acid Yellow 23 or Tartrazine, is a synthetic dye commonly used in cosmetics to impart a yellow color. It is water-soluble and belongs to the class of azo dyes.
2. Use:
CI 19140 is primarily used in cosmetics such as lipsticks, eyeshadows, blushes, and nail polishes to provide a bright yellow hue. It can also be found in hair dyes, soaps, and skincare products.
3. Usage CI 19140:
When using products containing CI 19140, it is important to be aware of any potential allergic reactions. Some individuals may be sensitive to synthetic dyes like CI 19140 and may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions upon contact. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this dye, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- Cosmeticsinfo.org. (n.d.). Tartrazine. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/tartrazine
- Personal Care Council. (2019). Color Additives Fact Sheet. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/resource/color-additives-fact-sheet/
- FDA. (2018). Color Additives Permitted for Use in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/color-additives-permitted-use-cosmetics
Other Names: FD&C Red No.4; FD&C Red #4; Food Red 1; Red No.4; Red #4; Ponceau sx
Function: Cosmetic Colorant
1. Definition CI 14700:
CI 14700, also known as Red 4, is a synthetic dye commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products to impart a red or pink color to the product.
2. Use:
CI 14700 is primarily used as a colorant in various cosmetics such as lipsticks, blushes, eyeshadows, and nail polishes. It is also found in hair dyes, soaps, and lotions to give a vibrant red hue to the product.
3. Usage CI 14700:
When using products containing CI 14700, it is important to be aware of any potential allergic reactions or skin sensitivities. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with CI 14700 to ensure there are no adverse reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin or allergies should consult with a dermatologist before using products containing this dye.
4. References:
- "Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final report on the safety assessment of Red 4 (CI 14700)." International Journal of Toxicology 24.Suppl 2 (2005): 1-15.
- "European Commission. CosIng - Cosmetics - GROWTH - European Commission." https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/index.cfm?fuseaction=search.details_v2&id=10050. Accessed 15 Nov. 2021.
- "Personal Care Products Council. Color Additives - Personal Care Products Council." https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/resource/color-additives/. Accessed 15 Nov. 2021.
Other Names: CI15985; CI 15985; Sunset Yellow FCF; FD&C Yellow #6
Function: Cosmetic Colorant
1. Definition CI 15985:
CI 15985, also known as Yellow 6, is a synthetic dye commonly used in cosmetics to impart a yellow color to various products.
2. Use:
CI 15985 is primarily used as a coloring agent in cosmetics such as lipsticks, eyeshadows, blushes, and nail polishes. It is also found in hair dyes, shampoos, and body washes to give them a yellow hue.
3. Usage CI 15985:
When using products containing CI 15985, it is important to be aware of any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities to the dye. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions when coming into contact with products containing CI 15985. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with CI 15985 to check for any adverse reactions.
4. References:
- "Safety Assessment of CI 15985 (Yellow 6) as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel
- "Color Additives Permitted for Use in Cosmetics" by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration
- "Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist" by Health Canada
Function: Masking, Fragrance
1. Definition Citronellol:
Citronellol is a naturally occurring acyclic monoterpenoid alcohol found in essential oils such as rose, geranium, and citronella. It is known for its pleasant floral aroma and is commonly used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics.
2. Use:
Citronellol is primarily used as a fragrance ingredient in a wide range of cosmetic products, including perfumes, lotions, creams, and soaps. Its sweet, floral scent is often used to add a fresh and uplifting aroma to skincare and haircare products.
3. Usage Citronellol:
Citronellol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it can cause skin irritation in some individuals, especially those with sensitive skin. It is important to use products containing citronellol as directed and to perform a patch test before applying them to larger areas of the skin. Additionally, products containing citronellol should be stored in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to prevent degradation of the ingredient.
4. References:
- Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). (2013). Opinion on citronellol. European Commission.
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2008). Safety assessment of citronellol, citronellal, and hydroxycitronellal. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(1), 21-44.
- Fragrance Materials Association. (2019). Citronellol safety assessment. FMA.
Function: Masking, Fragrance, Tonic
1. Definition Geraniol:
Geraniol is a natural compound that belongs to the family of monoterpenes and is commonly found in essential oils such as rose oil, citronella oil, and geranium oil. It has a sweet, floral scent and is often used in the fragrance industry.
2. Use:
Geraniol is widely used in the cosmetic industry as a fragrance ingredient due to its pleasant aroma. It is commonly found in perfumes, lotions, soaps, and other personal care products to add a floral scent. In addition to its fragrance properties, geraniol also has antioxidant and antimicrobial properties, making it a popular choice in skincare products.
3. Usage Geraniol:
When using products containing geraniol, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitivities and allergies. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to high concentrations of geraniol. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with geraniol, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, pregnant women should consult with their healthcare provider before using products containing geraniol.
4. References:
- Burdock, G. A. (2010). Safety assessment of Geraniol as a food ingredient. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 48(2), 29-34.
- Rastogi, S. C., & Heydorn, S. (2001). Fragrance allergens in commercial products. Contact Dermatitis, 45(5), 221-226.
- Menz, J., & Kistler, A. (2015). Fragrance allergens in cosmetics – a review. Journal of the German Society of Dermatology, 13(6), 625-632.
Other Names: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE
Function: Fragrance, Preservative
1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:
Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.
2. Use:
Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.
3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:
When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.
