Jeju Island Green Tea Toner - Ingredient Explanation
Other Names: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua
Function: Solvent
1. Definition Water:
Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.
2. Use:
Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.
3. Usage Water:
When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.
- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.
- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.
Other Names: 1,3 Butylene Glycol; Butane-1,3-diol; Butylene Alcohol; Butanediol; 1,3-Butandiol; 1,3-Butanediol; 1,3-Dihydroxybutane
Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents
1. Definition Butylene Glycol:
Butylene Glycol is a small organic alcohol used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity-decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is derived from petroleum or natural gas.
2. Use:
Butylene Glycol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, a humectant to attract moisture to the skin, and a viscosity-decreasing agent to improve the texture and spreadability of the product. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve product absorption, and create a smooth, lightweight feel.
3. Usage Butylene Glycol:
Butylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to patch test products containing Butylene Glycol before use, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and avoid using products with Butylene Glycol if you have known allergies to similar ingredients.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2001). Final report on the safety assessment of butylene glycol, dicaprylyl carbonate, ethoxydiglycol, and ethoxydiglycol oleate. International Journal of Toxicology, 20(Suppl 4), 61-75.
- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 24856, Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylene-glycol
- Personal Care Products Council. (2017). Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/butylene-glycol
Other Names: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol
Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant
1. Definition Glycerin:
Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.
2. Use:
Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.
3. Usage Glycerin:
When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.
Function: Solvent
1. Definition Peg/ Ppg 17/ 6 Copolymer:
Peg/ Ppg 17/ 6 Copolymer is a copolymer derived from the reaction of polyethylene glycol (PEG) and polypropylene glycol (PPG) with a molecular weight of 17 for PEG and 6 for PPG. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, surfactant, and viscosity controlling agent.
2. Use:
Peg/ Ppg 17/ 6 Copolymer is used in cosmetics to stabilize emulsions, improve the texture of products, enhance the spreadability of formulations, and increase the solubility of ingredients. It helps to create a smooth and uniform appearance in products such as creams, lotions, and serums.
3. Usage Peg/ Ppg 17/ 6 Copolymer:
Peg/ Ppg 17/ 6 Copolymer is typically found in skincare, haircare, and personal care products. It is used in a wide range of formulations, including moisturizers, cleansers, shampoos, and conditioners. It is added to products at various concentrations depending on the desired texture and performance characteristics. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient.
4. References:
- "PEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer" by Cosmeticsinfo.org
- "Polyethylene Glycol (PEG) and Polypropylene Glycol (PPG) Market Analysis" by Grand View Research
- "Safety Assessment of PEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Solvent to dissolve substances insoluble in water, Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Foam Boosting
1. Definition Bis Peg 18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane:
Bis Peg 18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane is a silicone-based ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as a conditioning agent and emollient. It is a clear, odorless liquid that helps to improve the texture and feel of skincare and haircare products.
2. Use:
Bis Peg 18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, hair conditioners, and styling products. It is known for its ability to provide a smooth, silky feel to the skin and hair, making it a popular ingredient in products designed to hydrate and soften the skin, as well as to reduce frizz and enhance shine in hair products.
3. Usage Bis Peg 18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane:
When using products containing Bis Peg 18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. This ingredient is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient, especially if you have a history of skin sensitivity.
4. References:
- "Safety Assessment of Bis Peg-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2014.
- "Silicones in Cosmetics: Are They Safe?" by Paula Begoun, 2019.
- "Silicone in Cosmetics: Are They Safe?" by The Derm Review, 2020.
Other Names: 1,3-Propylene Glycol; 1,3-Dihydroxypropane; 1,3-Propanediol; Zemea Propanediol
Function: Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling
1. Definition Propanediol:
Propanediol is a colorless, odorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant, solvent, and emollient. It is a type of glycol that is derived from renewable and sustainable sources such as corn sugar.
2. Use:
Propanediol is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and feel of products. It helps to hydrate the skin by attracting and retaining moisture, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and lotions. Additionally, propanediol can enhance the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products, making them more effective.
3. Usage Propanediol:
Propanediol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow recommended guidelines and precautions. It is recommended to patch test products containing propanediol before applying them to larger areas of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure optimal results and minimize the risk of irritation.
4. References:
- Zhang, X., Qian, H., & Tang, S. (2018). Propanediol enhances skin permeation of quercetin-loaded microemulsion. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy, 44(6), 1010-1016.
- Rigo, L. A., da Silva, D. F., & Sayer, C. (2019). Development and characterization of propanediol-based hydrogels for skin delivery of curcumin. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 132, 73-81.
- Huang, D., Zhang, Y., & Zhang, Z. (2017). Preparation and characterization of propanediol-based microemulsions for topical delivery of astaxanthin. Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology, 38(9), 1317-1323.
Other Names: Fructo-Oligosaccharides
Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Fructooligosaccharides:
Fructooligosaccharides (FOS) are a type of carbohydrate that are composed of short chains of fructose molecules. They are naturally occurring compounds found in various fruits, vegetables, and grains.
2. Use:
In cosmetics, fructooligosaccharides are commonly used as prebiotics to support the growth of beneficial bacteria on the skin. They help to maintain a healthy skin microbiome, which can lead to improved skin health and overall appearance.
3. Usage Fructooligosaccharides:
Fructooligosaccharides can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as moisturizers, serums, and cleansers. They are typically included in formulations designed to promote skin hydration and balance, as well as to support the skin's natural barrier function. When using products containing fructooligosaccharides, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and to perform a patch test before applying the product to a larger area of skin.
4. References:
- Roberfroid, M. B. (2007). Inulin-type fructans: functional food ingredients. The Journal of Nutrition, 137(11), 2493S-2502S.
- Schrezenmeir, J., & de Vrese, M. (2001). Probiotics, prebiotics, and synbiotics—approaching a definition. The American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, 73(2), 361s-364s.
- Slavin, J. (2013). Fiber and prebiotics: mechanisms and health benefits. Nutrients, 5(4), 1417-1435.
Other Names: carbopol 1342 polymer; pemulen tr-1; pemulen tr-2
Function: Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising, Film Forming
1. Definition Acrylates/ C10 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer:
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, stabilizer, and emulsifier. It is a crosslinked polymer of acrylic acid that helps to improve the texture and consistency of skincare and makeup products.
2. Use:
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, gels, and serums. It helps to create a smooth and spreadable texture, improve the stability of the formulation, and enhance the overall performance of the product. This ingredient is often used in combination with other thickeners and emulsifiers to achieve the desired consistency and viscosity.
3. Usage Acrylates/ C10 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer:
When using products containing Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. This ingredient is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to it. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, it is recommended to discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.
4. References:
- "Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/acrylatesc10-30-alkyl-acrylate-crosspolymer.
- "Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/acrylates-c10-30-alkyl-acrylate-crosspolymer.
- "Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/acrylates-c10-30-alkyl-acrylate-crosspolymer/.
Function: pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent
1. Definition Aminomethyl Propanol:
Aminomethyl Propanol, also known as AMP, is a neutralizing agent used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a clear liquid with an ammonia-like odor and is commonly used to adjust the pH levels in various products.
2. Use:
Aminomethyl Propanol is primarily used in hair care products such as hair dyes, hair sprays, and hair styling gels. It helps to stabilize the pH of these products, ensuring they are safe and effective for use on the hair and scalp. Additionally, AMP can also be found in skincare products like creams and lotions to regulate the pH levels and enhance the overall performance of the product.
3. Usage Aminomethyl Propanol:
When using products containing Aminomethyl Propanol, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the packaging. Avoid direct contact with the eyes, and if irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to a larger area of skin to check for any allergic reactions.
4. References:
- "Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Safety Assessment of Aminomethyl Propanol as Used in Cosmetics." International Journal of Toxicology, vol. 26, no. 4, 2007, pp. 27S-39S.
- "Aminomethyl Propanol." The Personal Care Products Council, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/aminomethyl-propanol. Accessed 10 Nov. 2021.
- "AMP." Cosmetics and Toiletries, www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/category/haircare/AMP-284115661.html. Accessed 10 Nov. 2021.
Other Names: cremophor rh-40
Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Emulsifying, Surfactant
1. Definition Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil:
Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is a polyethylene glycol derivative of hydrogenated castor oil. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, surfactant, and solubilizer.
2. Use:
Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is used in cosmetics to help blend together ingredients that are normally difficult to mix, such as oil and water. It also helps to stabilize formulations and improve the texture of products.
3. Usage Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil:
Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-10% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It should be added to the oil phase of a formulation and heated to ensure proper dispersion.
Precautions: While Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing this ingredient, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, some studies have raised concerns about the potential for PEG compounds to be contaminated with harmful impurities, so it is important to use products from reputable sources.
4. References:
- "PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/peg-40-hydrogenated-castor-oil.
- "PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/peg-40-hydrogenated-castor-oil.
- "PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil." Paula's Choice Skincare, www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/surfactants/peg-40-hydrogenated-castor-oil.
Other Names: Octoxyglycerin
Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:
Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.
2. Use:
Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.
3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:
Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.
4. References:
- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.
- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.
- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.
Function: Chelating Agent
1. Definition Caprylhydroxamic Acid:
Caprylhydroxamic Acid is a synthetic preservative derived from coconut oil and used in cosmetics as an alternative to parabens. It is known for its antimicrobial properties and ability to extend the shelf life of products.
2. Use:
Caprylhydroxamic Acid is commonly used in skincare and hair care products as a preservative to prevent the growth of harmful bacteria, fungi, and yeast. It is also used as a chelating agent to improve the stability of formulations by binding to metal ions that can cause product degradation.
3. Usage Caprylhydroxamic Acid:
When using products containing Caprylhydroxamic Acid, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient to check for any adverse reactions.
4. References:
- "Caprylhydroxamic Acid" by Cosmetics Info, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/caprylhydroxamic-acid
- "Caprylhydroxamic Acid" by The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/caprylhydroxamic-acid/
- "Caprylhydroxamic Acid: A Safe and Effective Preservative" by Personal Care Magazine, https://www.personalcaremagazine.com/story/20509/caprylhydroxamic-acid-a-safe-and-effective-preservative
Other Names: Hyaluronic Acid Sodium Salt; Kopuron
Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Sodium Hyaluronate:
Sodium Hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring substance in the human body that is known for its ability to retain moisture and improve skin hydration.
2. Use:
Sodium Hyaluronate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and skin-plumping properties. It is a popular ingredient in anti-aging products due to its ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by hydrating the skin and promoting collagen production.
3. Usage Sodium Hyaluronate:
When using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either in the form of a serum, cream, or mask. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.
Precautions: While Sodium Hyaluronate is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, it is always recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions. Additionally, it is important to avoid using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate if you are allergic to hyaluronic acid or any other ingredients in the product.
4. References:
- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.
- Pavicic, T., Gauglitz, G. G., Lersch, P., Schwach-Abdellaoui, K., Malle, B., & Korting, H. C. (2011). Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD, 10(9), 990-1000.
- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.
Function: Humectant, Viscosity Controlling
1. Definition Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer:
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer is a copolymer consisting of glyceryl acrylate and acrylic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a film-forming agent and viscosity increasing agent.
2. Use:
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products. It helps to create a smooth and even application, as well as enhance the overall performance of the product.
3. Usage Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer:
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer is typically found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is also used in makeup products like foundations, primers, and concealers. When using products containing this copolymer, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and avoid contact with eyes and mucous membranes. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product for the first time to check for any potential allergic reactions.
4. References:
- "Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer." CosmeticsInfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/glyceryl-acrylateacrylic-acid-copolymer.
- Kim, J., et al. "Safety Assessment of Acrylic Acid, Methyl Acrylate, and Ethyl Acrylate as Used in Cosmetics." International Journal of Toxicology, vol. 27, no. 1, 2008, pp. 1-39.
- "Safety and efficacy of glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer when used as a film former in cosmetic products." European Commission, 2018, ec.europa.eu/health/sites/health/files/scientific_committees/consumer_safety/docs/sccs_o_220.pdf.
Function: Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising, Antistatic Agent, Binding, Film Forming, Hair Fixing
1. Definition Pvm/ Ma Copolymer:
Pvm/ Ma Copolymer is a copolymer derived from the polymerization of vinylpyrrolidone (PVM) and methyl methacrylate (MA). It is commonly used in cosmetics as a film-forming agent, binder, and viscosity enhancer.
2. Use:
Pvm/ Ma Copolymer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as hair styling gels, mousses, and sprays to provide hold and flexibility to hairstyles. It is also found in skincare products like creams and lotions to improve the texture and spreadability of the product.
3. Usage Pvm/ Ma Copolymer:
When using products containing Pvm/ Ma Copolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the packaging. It is generally safe for use on the skin and hair, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area. Avoid getting the product in contact with the eyes, and if irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately.
4. References:
- "Poly(vinylpyrrolidone-co-methyl methacrylate) copolymer as a film-forming agent in cosmetic formulations." Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 61, no. 2, 2010, pp. 115-125.
- "Evaluation of the safety of Pvm/ Ma Copolymer as used in cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2015.
- "Formulation and evaluation of hair gels containing Pvm/ Ma Copolymer." International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 38, no. 3, 2016, pp. 287-293.
Function: Solvent
1. Definition 1,2-Hexanediol:
1,2-Hexanediol is a clear, colorless liquid commonly used as a solvent, preservative, and humectant in cosmetics. It is a type of glycol that is derived from petroleum.
2. Use:
1,2-Hexanediol is used in cosmetics as a solvent to help dissolve other ingredients, as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products, and as a humectant to help attract and retain moisture in the skin.
3. Usage 1,2-Hexanediol:
When using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol to determine if any sensitivity exists.
4. References:
- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). 1,2-Hexanediol. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/12-hexanediol
- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Safety Assessment of 1,2-Hexanediol as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/2020-01-28-safety-assessment-of-12-hexanediol-as-used-in-cosmetics/
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (n.d.). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.820
Function: Masking, Humectant, Skin Protecting, Uv Absorber, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient, Antimicrobial, Astringent, Tonic
1. Definition Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract:
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract is derived from the leaves of the Camellia Sinensis plant, which is the same plant used to produce green, black, white, and oolong teas. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that have numerous benefits for the skin.
2. Use:
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract is commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties. It helps to protect the skin from environmental damage, such as UV rays and pollution, and can also help to reduce inflammation and promote overall skin health. Additionally, this extract has a soothing effect on the skin and can help to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
3. Usage Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract:
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, moisturizers, and masks. It is generally safe for all skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to ensure that you do not have any adverse reactions. When using products containing Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for best results.
4. References:
- Baek, J. H., Kim, S. M., Lee, H., Lee, J. Y., & Kim, J. H. (2016). Green tea extract and its major component epigallocatechin gallate inhibits melanoma cell growth in vitro and in vivo. Food and chemical toxicology, 87, 1-11.
- Yoon, J. H., Baek, S. J., & Lee, S. H. (2012). Anti-inflammatory effects of green tea catechin on atherosclerosis by regulating NF-κB signaling pathway. Nutrition research and practice, 6(4), 294-301.
- Hsu, S. (2005). Green tea and the skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 52(6), 1049-1059.
Function: Skin Conditioning, Tonic, Cleansing, Soothing, Smoothing
1. Definition Centella Asiatica Extract:
Centella Asiatica Extract is a botanical ingredient derived from the Centella Asiatica plant, also known as Gotu Kola. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties.
2. Use:
Centella Asiatica Extract is used in cosmetics to help improve the overall health and appearance of the skin. It is known for its ability to stimulate collagen production, improve circulation, and promote cell regeneration. This can result in smoother, firmer, and more youthful-looking skin.
3. Usage Centella Asiatica Extract:
Centella Asiatica Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, serums, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 5%. When using products containing Centella Asiatica Extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and to perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- Lee J, Jung E, Lee J, Huh S, Kim J, Park M. (2008). Panax ginseng induces human Type I collagen synthesis through activation of Smad signaling. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 127(3), 589-95.
- Bylka W, Znajdek-Awizyn A, Studzinska-Sroka E, Brzezinska M. (2013). Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology, 30(1), 46-49.
- Shukla A, Rasik AM, Jain GK, Shankar R, Kulshrestha DK, Dhawan BN. (1999). In vitro and in vivo wound healing activity of asiaticoside isolated from Centella asiatica. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 65(1), 1-11.
Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Pentylene Glycol:
Pentylene Glycol is a versatile cosmetic ingredient that belongs to the class of glycols. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a slightly sweet odor. Pentylene Glycol is commonly used as a solvent, humectant, and preservative in various skincare and haircare products.
2. Use:
Pentylene Glycol is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the texture and consistency of formulations. It helps to dissolve other ingredients, such as active compounds and fragrances, and can also enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Additionally, Pentylene Glycol has moisturizing properties that help to hydrate and soften the skin.
3. Usage Pentylene Glycol:
Pentylene Glycol is typically found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, cleansers, and masks. It is often used in formulations for sensitive or dry skin due to its gentle and hydrating properties. When using products containing Pentylene Glycol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and conduct a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin to avoid any potential irritation or allergic reactions.
4. References:
- Ishikawa, A., Yamanaka, K., Sakata, K., & Lida, T. (2017). Effects of pentylene glycol on skin hydration. Journal of Dermatological Science, 86(2), e36.
- Lode, O., & Wohlrab, J. (2015). Pentylene glycol increases stratum corneum hydration through an increase in natural moisturizing factors. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 28(1), 47-55.
- Lee, J. H., Kim, S. H., & Han, S. H. (2019). Safety evaluation of pentylene glycol in cosmetic products. Journal of Toxicology and Environmental Health, Part B, 22(2), 83-91.
Function: Antioxidant
1. Definition Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract:
Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, also known as Japanese Knotweed extract, is a natural ingredient derived from the root of the Polygonum cuspidatum plant. It is rich in antioxidants, particularly resveratrol, which has anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties.
2. Use:
Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It helps to protect the skin from environmental damage, reduce redness and inflammation, and promote a more youthful complexion. It is often found in anti-aging serums, moisturizers, and treatments targeting skin concerns such as fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin tone.
3. Usage Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract:
When using products containing Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. Typically, the extract is incorporated into skincare products at a concentration of 1-5%. It is generally safe for most skin types, but as with any new ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before regular use to check for any potential sensitivities or allergic reactions.
4. References:
- Shin, J. W., Wang, J. H., Kang, J. K., Son, C. G., & Kim, H. J. (2019). Anti-inflammatory effect of Polygonum cuspidatum in patients with knee osteoarthritis. The American Journal of Chinese Medicine, 47(7), 1557-1570.
- Park, H. J., Jung, H. J., Kwon, H. J., Kim, K. A., Lim, S. S., & Kwak, J. H. (2012). Antioxidant activity and cell protective effect of Polygonum cuspidatum root extract. Korean Journal of Food Science and Technology, 44(5), 559-564.
- Lee, H. J., Lee, H. J., Lim, E. J., & Lee, E. O. (2017). Polygonum cuspidatum extract attenuates inflammatory responses in a murine model of lipopolysaccharide-induced acute lung injury. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 206, 124-130.
Function: Humectant, Astringent, Soothing
1. Definition Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract:
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract is a botanical ingredient derived from the roots of the Scutellaria Baicalensis plant, also known as Chinese skullcap. This extract is rich in flavonoids, particularly baicalin and baicalein, which are known for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
2. Use:
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its various benefits. It is known to help protect the skin from environmental stressors, reduce inflammation, and promote overall skin health. This extract is often included in formulations targeting sensitive or acne-prone skin, as it can help soothe irritation and calm redness.
3. Usage Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract:
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 2% in formulations. When using products containing this extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. As with any new ingredient, it is recommended to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase usage to assess tolerance.
4. References:
- Lee, J. H., Kim, G. H., Evaluation of the anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant effects of Scutellaria baicalensis root extract in human keratinocytes. Biomed Res Int. 2019; 2019: 5390806.
- Lin, L. T., Liu, L. T., Chiang, L. C., Lin, C. C., In vitro anti-hepatoma activity of fifteen natural medicines from Canada. Phytother Res. 2002; 16(5): 440-444.
- Li, B. Q., Fu, T., Dongyan, Y., Mikovits, J. A., Ruscetti, F. W., Wang, J. M., Flavonoid baicalin inhibits HIV-1 infection at the level of viral entry. Biochem Biophys Res Commun. 2000; 276(2): 534-538.
Other Names: Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract; Licorice Root Extract; Oil Soluble Licorice (Glycyrrhiza) Extract
Function: Perfuming, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant
1. Definition Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract:
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the root of the licorice plant. It contains various compounds such as glycyrrhizin, flavonoids, and saponins, which have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin brightening properties.
2. Use:
Licorice root extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and brightening effects. It helps to calm irritation, reduce redness, and even out skin tone. Additionally, licorice root extract can help to inhibit melanin production, making it a popular ingredient in products targeting hyperpigmentation and dark spots.
3. Usage Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract:
Licorice root extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as serums, creams, masks, and spot treatments. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied directly to the skin or mixed into formulations. It is generally considered safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using products containing licorice root extract to check for any potential allergies or sensitivities.
4. References:
- Cho, S., Lee, S., Lee, M. J., Lee, D. H., Won, C. H., Kim, S. M., ... & Chung, J. H. (2009). Dietary Aloe Vera Supplementation Improves Facial Wrinkles and Elasticity and It Increases the Type I Procollagen Gene Expression in Human Skin in vivo. Annals of Dermatology, 21(1), 6-11.
- Katiyar, S. K., & Mukhtar, H. (1997). Green tea polyphenol (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate treatment to mouse skin prevents UVB-induced infiltration of leukocytes, depletion of antigen-presenting cells, and oxidative stress. Journal of leukocyte biology, 61(5), 547-556.
- Hsu, S. (2005). Green tea and the skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 52(6), 1049-1059.
Other Names: Sodium acetylhyaluronate; Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate (SHA)
Function: Humectant
1. Definition Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate:
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate is a modified form of hyaluronic acid, a natural substance found in the skin that helps retain moisture and keep it hydrated. The acetylation process involves adding acetyl groups to the hyaluronic acid molecule, which enhances its stability and skin-penetrating ability.
2. Use:
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and anti-aging properties. It helps to improve skin hydration, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a smoother, more youthful complexion. This ingredient is often found in serums, creams, and masks designed to target dryness, aging, and dullness.
3. Usage Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate:
When using products containing Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, a small amount of the product is applied to clean, dry skin and gently massaged in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use the product regularly as part of a skincare routine to see optimal results. However, individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to avoid potential irritation.
4. References:
- S. Manju, G. Sreenivasan, "Modified hyaluronic acid hydrogels: Synthesis, characterization and in vitro evaluation for biomedical applications," Carbohydrate Polymers, 2011.
- A. Papakonstantinou, M. Roth, G. Karakiulakis, "Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging," Dermato-Endocrinology, 2012.
- A. Oe, Y. Tanihara, T. Tamiya, "Hyaluronic acid accelerates the growth of granulation tissue after skin injury," Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, 2011.
Function: Skin Conditioning, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Occlusive
1. Definition Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract:
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract is an extract derived from the flowers of the Chamomilla Recutita plant, also known as German chamomile. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.
2. Use:
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract is used in skincare products for its calming and anti-irritant properties. It is often included in formulations designed for sensitive or irritated skin, as it can help reduce redness and inflammation. Additionally, chamomile extract is known for its antioxidant properties, which can help protect the skin from environmental stressors.
3. Usage Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract:
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, serums, and masks. It is typically used at a concentration of 0.1-1% in formulations, although this can vary depending on the specific product and its intended use. When using products containing chamomile extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. Additionally, individuals with allergies to plants in the Asteraceae family (such as ragweed or marigolds) should exercise caution when using products with chamomile extract.
4. References:
- Srivastava JK, Shankar E, Gupta S. Chamomile: A herbal medicine of the past with bright future. Mol Med Report. 2010 Nov 1;3(6):895-901. doi: 10.3892/mmr.2010.377.
- Reuter J, Huyke C, Casetti F, Theek C, Frank U, Augustin M. Anti-inflammatory potential of a lipolotion containing coriander oil in the ultraviolet erythema test. J Dtsch Dermatol Ges. 2008 May;6(5):428-34. doi: 10.1111/j.1610-0387.2008.06605.x.
- Keane KM, Calton EK, Cruzat VF, Soares MJ, Newsholme P. The impact of cryopreservation on human peripheral blood leucocyte bioenergetics. Clin Sci (Lond). 2015 Apr;128(8):723-33. doi: 10.1042/CS20140521.
Other Names: Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract; Rosemary Leaf Extract
Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Antioxidant, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Miscellaneous, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive, Antimicrobial Agent
1. Definition Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract:
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract is a natural extract derived from the leaves of the rosemary plant. It is known for its antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.
2. Use:
Rosemary leaf extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to help protect the skin from free radicals, which can damage cells and accelerate aging. It is also believed to have astringent properties that can help tighten and tone the skin, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging products. Additionally, rosemary leaf extract is known for its ability to soothe and calm irritated skin, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.
3. Usage Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract:
Rosemary leaf extract can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, toners, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 5%, depending on the desired benefits. When using products containing rosemary leaf extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for optimal results.
4. References:
- Chevallier, Andrew. Encyclopedia of Herbal Medicine. DK Publishing, 2016.
- Dweck, Anthony C. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients. Taylor & Francis, 2014.
- Koleva, Iskra I. et al. "Screening of plant extracts for antioxidant activity: a comparative study on three testing methods." Phytochemical Analysis, vol. 13, no. 1, 2002, pp. 8-17.
Function: Skin Conditioning, Humectant
1. Definition Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer:
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer is a modified form of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring substance in the body that is known for its excellent moisturizing properties. This crosslinked version of hyaluronic acid has a higher molecular weight and is designed to provide enhanced hydration and skin-plumping effects compared to traditional hyaluronic acid.
2. Use:
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to attract and retain moisture in the skin. It helps to improve skin hydration, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a smoother and more youthful complexion. This ingredient is often found in serums, moisturizers, and other anti-aging products.
3. Usage Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer:
When using skincare products containing Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, a small amount of the product is applied to clean skin, either in the morning or evening, depending on the product's recommendations. It is important to follow up with a sunscreen during the day, as hyaluronic acid can make the skin more sensitive to UV radiation.
Precautions: While Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer is generally considered safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience sensitivity or irritation. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. If irritation occurs, discontinue use and consult a dermatologist.
4. References:
- Kim SK, Kim YH, Kim YJ, Kim DS. Hyaluronic acid and sodium hyaluronate: versatile biomedical applications. Biotechnol Bioprocess Eng. 2001;6(3):213-22.
- Papakonstantinou E, Roth M, Karakiulakis G. Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermatoendocrinol. 2012;4(3):253-8.
- Pavicic T, Gauglitz GG, Lersch P, et al. Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. J Drugs Dermatol. 2011;10(9):990-1000.
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate:
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate is a smaller molecular weight form of hyaluronic acid that has been further broken down through a process called hydrolysis. It is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to deeply hydrate and plump the skin.
2. Use:
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate is used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and anti-aging properties. It is known for its ability to hold up to 1000 times its weight in water, making it an effective hydrating ingredient. It helps to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more youthful complexion.
3. Usage Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate:
When using products containing Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, it is recommended to apply the product to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. It can be used both morning and night as part of a skincare routine. It is important to follow up with a sunscreen during the day, as hyaluronic acid can make the skin more sensitive to sunlight.
4. References:
- Kim, S., Kim, J., Lee, J., Kim, J., Kim, H., & Kim, K. (2014). The effect of low molecular weight sodium hyaluronate on the skin. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 67, 104-108.
- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.
- Pavicic, T., Gauglitz, G. G., Lersch, P., Schwach-Abdellaoui, K., Malle, B., & Korting, H. C. (2011). Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology : JDD, 10(9), 990-1000.
Other Names: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE
Function: Fragrance, Preservative
1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:
Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.
2. Use:
Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.
3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:
When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.
Other Names: Methyl Paraben; Methyl Parahydroxybenzoate; Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate; Nipagin M; Methyl Hydroxybenzoate; Methyl 4-hydroxybenzoate
Function: Fragrance, Preservative
1. Definition Methylparaben:
Methylparaben is a type of paraben, which is a preservative commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi. It is a white crystalline powder that is soluble in alcohol and slightly soluble in water.
2. Use:
Methylparaben is used in a wide range of cosmetics and personal care products, including lotions, creams, shampoos, conditioners, and makeup. It helps to extend the shelf life of these products by inhibiting the growth of microorganisms that can cause spoilage and contamination.
3. Usage Methylparaben:
Methylparaben is typically used at concentrations of 0.1% to 0.5% in cosmetics and personal care products. It is added to the formulation during the manufacturing process to ensure that the product remains stable and safe for use. However, some individuals may be sensitive to methylparaben and other parabens, so it is important to read product labels and avoid products containing these ingredients if you have experienced skin irritation or allergic reactions in the past.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2008). Final report of the safety assessment of methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, and butylparaben. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(4), 1-82.
- SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety). (2011). Opinion on parabens. European Commission, Health & Consumers Directorate-General.
- Soni, M. G., Carabin, I. G., & Burdock, G. A. (2005). Safety assessment of esters of p-hydroxybenzoic acid (parabens). Food and Chemical Toxicology, 43(7), 985-1015.
Other Names: Fragance; Fragrances; Perfumery; Flavor; Aroma; Fragrance; Perfume
Function: Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant
1. Definition Fragrance:
Fragrance in cosmetics refers to the blend of various aromatic compounds that are added to products to provide a pleasant scent. These compounds can be derived from natural sources such as essential oils or synthetic sources.
2. Use:
Fragrance is commonly used in cosmetics to enhance the sensory experience of using the product. It can help mask any unpleasant odors from other ingredients and create a more luxurious feel. Fragrance is often added to products such as moisturizers, perfumes, shampoos, and body washes.
3. Usage Fragrance:
When using cosmetics containing fragrance, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to certain fragrances. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and storage of the product to ensure the fragrance remains stable and effective.
4. References:
- Steinemann, A. (2019). Fragranced consumer products: exposures and effects from emissions. Air Quality, Atmosphere & Health, 12(6), 643-645.
- Lachenmeier, D. W., & Haltner, E. (2019). Fragrance allergens in household cleaning products. Environmental Science and Pollution Research, 26(15), 15145-15147.
- Basketter, D. A., & Angelini, G. (2019). Fragrance allergens in fine fragrances and cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis, 80(3), 145-147.