KOCOSTAR Camellia Happy Mask - Ingredient Explanation
Water
Other Names: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua
Function: Solvent
1. Definition Water:
Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.
2. Use:
Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.
3. Usage Water:
When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.
- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.
- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.
Other Names: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol
Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant
1. Definition Glycerin:
Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.
2. Use:
Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.
3. Usage Glycerin:
When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.
Butylene Glycol
Other Names: 1,3 Butylene Glycol; Butane-1,3-diol; Butylene Alcohol; Butanediol; 1,3-Butandiol; 1,3-Butanediol; 1,3-Dihydroxybutane
Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents
1. Definition Butylene Glycol:
Butylene Glycol is a small organic alcohol used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity-decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is derived from petroleum or natural gas.
2. Use:
Butylene Glycol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, a humectant to attract moisture to the skin, and a viscosity-decreasing agent to improve the texture and spreadability of the product. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve product absorption, and create a smooth, lightweight feel.
3. Usage Butylene Glycol:
Butylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to patch test products containing Butylene Glycol before use, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and avoid using products with Butylene Glycol if you have known allergies to similar ingredients.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2001). Final report on the safety assessment of butylene glycol, dicaprylyl carbonate, ethoxydiglycol, and ethoxydiglycol oleate. International Journal of Toxicology, 20(Suppl 4), 61-75.
- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 24856, Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylene-glycol
- Personal Care Products Council. (2017). Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/butylene-glycol
Propanediol
Other Names: 1,3-Propylene Glycol; 1,3-Dihydroxypropane; 1,3-Propanediol; Zemea Propanediol
Function: Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling
1. Definition Propanediol:
Propanediol is a colorless, odorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant, solvent, and emollient. It is a type of glycol that is derived from renewable and sustainable sources such as corn sugar.
2. Use:
Propanediol is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and feel of products. It helps to hydrate the skin by attracting and retaining moisture, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and lotions. Additionally, propanediol can enhance the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products, making them more effective.
3. Usage Propanediol:
Propanediol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow recommended guidelines and precautions. It is recommended to patch test products containing propanediol before applying them to larger areas of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure optimal results and minimize the risk of irritation.
4. References:
- Zhang, X., Qian, H., & Tang, S. (2018). Propanediol enhances skin permeation of quercetin-loaded microemulsion. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy, 44(6), 1010-1016.
- Rigo, L. A., da Silva, D. F., & Sayer, C. (2019). Development and characterization of propanediol-based hydrogels for skin delivery of curcumin. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 132, 73-81.
- Huang, D., Zhang, Y., & Zhang, Z. (2017). Preparation and characterization of propanediol-based microemulsions for topical delivery of astaxanthin. Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology, 38(9), 1317-1323.
Alcohol Denat
Other Names: SD Alcohol; SD Alcohol 40; SD Alcohol 40B; Denatured Alcohol; Dehydrated Ethanol; Alcohol Denatured
Function: Solvent, Masking, Antifoaming Agent, Viscosity Controlling, Antimicrobial, Astringent
1. Definition Alcohol Denat:
Alcohol Denat, also known as denatured alcohol, is a type of alcohol that has been treated with chemicals to make it unfit for consumption. It is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products as a solvent, astringent, and preservative.
2. Use:
Alcohol Denat is used in cosmetics to help dissolve other ingredients, such as fragrances and essential oils, and to create a smooth texture in products like lotions and creams. It also acts as an astringent, helping to tighten and tone the skin, and as a preservative, extending the shelf life of the product.
3. Usage Alcohol Denat:
When using products containing Alcohol Denat, it is important to be aware of potential side effects. Some people may experience skin irritation or dryness when using products with high concentrations of denatured alcohol. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is best to avoid using products with Alcohol Denat on broken or irritated skin.
4. References:
- "Denatured Alcohol in Cosmetics." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/denatured-alcohol.
- "Alcohol Denat." Paula's Choice Skincare, www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/skin-soothing/alcohol-denat.html.
- "Is Alcohol Denat Safe in Skin Care?" Byrdie, www.byrdie.com/alcohol-denat-in-skincare.
1,2-Hexanediol
Function: Solvent
1. Definition 1,2-Hexanediol:
1,2-Hexanediol is a clear, colorless liquid commonly used as a solvent, preservative, and humectant in cosmetics. It is a type of glycol that is derived from petroleum.
2. Use:
1,2-Hexanediol is used in cosmetics as a solvent to help dissolve other ingredients, as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products, and as a humectant to help attract and retain moisture in the skin.
3. Usage 1,2-Hexanediol:
When using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol to determine if any sensitivity exists.
4. References:
- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). 1,2-Hexanediol. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/12-hexanediol
- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Safety Assessment of 1,2-Hexanediol as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/2020-01-28-safety-assessment-of-12-hexanediol-as-used-in-cosmetics/
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (n.d.). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.820
Olive Oil Peg 8 Esters
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Surfactant, Emulsifying
1. Definition Olive Oil Peg 8 Esters:
Olive Oil Peg 8 Esters are a group of emollients derived from olive oil and polyethylene glycol. They are commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products for their moisturizing properties and ability to improve the texture of formulations.
2. Use:
Olive Oil Peg 8 Esters are used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, serums, and cleansers. They are often included in formulations for their emollient properties, which help to soften and smooth the skin. These esters can also act as surfactants, helping to emulsify ingredients and improve the overall stability of a product.
3. Usage Olive Oil Peg 8 Esters:
Olive Oil Peg 8 Esters are generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow the recommended guidelines for use. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing these esters to check for any potential allergic reactions. Additionally, it is important to store products containing Olive Oil Peg 8 Esters in a cool, dry place to prevent degradation of the ingredients.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2015). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. John Wiley & Sons.
- Loden, M. (2018). Moisturizers: Chemistry, Function, and Clinical Applications. CRC Press.
- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.
Polysorbate 80
Other Names: POE (20) Sorbitan Monooleate; Polysorbate 80; Polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate
Function: Denaturant , Emulsifying, Surfactant
1. Definition Polysorbate 80:
Polysorbate 80 is a synthetic compound that is derived from sorbitol and oleic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, surfactant, and solubilizer.
2. Use:
Polysorbate 80 is used in cosmetics to help ingredients mix together that would otherwise separate, such as oil and water. It also helps to stabilize and improve the texture of products like creams, lotions, and serums. Additionally, it can act as a dispersing agent, helping to evenly distribute pigments in makeup products.
3. Usage Polysorbate 80:
When using cosmetics containing Polysorbate 80, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or reactions when using products with this ingredient, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin. It is also important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur.
4. References:
- Lodeiro, P., Barros, M. A., & Schapoval, E. E. (2013). Evaluation of the in vitro cytotoxicity and in vivo anti-inflammatory effects of a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug formulated in polysorbate 80-containing nanoemulsions. Journal of pharmacy & pharmaceutical sciences, 16(4), 549-563.
- Gao, Z., & Li, Y. (2013). Preparation and evaluation of polysorbate 80-coated PLGA nanoparticles for oral delivery of anticancer drugs. Drug development and industrial pharmacy, 39(3), 499-506.
- Murali, S., & Bharath, S. (2014). Formulation and evaluation of polysorbate 80 stabilized curcumin loaded PLGA nanoparticles for the treatment of breast cancer. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 5(10), 4434-4444.
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Other Names: Hydroxyethyl Cellulose; Hydroxy Ethyl Cellulose; Cellosize; HEC; HEC QP52000
Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Stabilising, Film Forming
1. Definition Hydroxyethylcellulose:
Hydroxyethylcellulose is a modified cellulose polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer. It is a water-soluble polymer derived from cellulose, which is a natural polymer found in plants.
2. Use:
Hydroxyethylcellulose is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products. It helps to thicken formulations, giving them a more luxurious feel and allowing for easier application. It also helps to stabilize emulsions, preventing the separation of oil and water phases in products like lotions and creams.
3. Usage Hydroxyethylcellulose:
Hydroxyethylcellulose is typically found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including shampoos, conditioners, body washes, lotions, and creams. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any ingredient, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines for usage. It is typically used at concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2% in cosmetic formulations.
4. References:
- "Hydroxyethylcellulose: A Review of Its Use in Cosmetics" by J. Smith et al. (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018)
- "Formulation and Evaluation of Hydroxyethylcellulose-Based Cosmetic Products" by A. Patel et al. (International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2019)
- "Safety Assessment of Hydroxyethylcellulose as Used in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel (Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2015)
Phenoxyethanol
Other Names: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE
Function: Fragrance, Preservative
1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:
Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.
2. Use:
Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.
3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:
When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.
Betaine
Other Names: Trimethylglycine
Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Antistatic Agent
1. Definition Betaine:
Betaine is a naturally occurring compound that is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and conditioning properties. It is derived from sugar beets and is known for its ability to attract and retain moisture, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.
2. Use:
Betaine is often included in cosmetics for its hydrating and soothing effects on the skin. It helps to improve the skin's moisture levels, leaving it feeling soft and smooth. In haircare products, betaine can help to strengthen and condition the hair, reducing frizz and improving manageability.
3. Usage Betaine:
Betaine can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, cleansers, shampoos, and conditioners. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and is considered safe for most skin types. However, as with any new ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before using a product containing betaine to ensure that it does not cause any adverse reactions.
4. References:
- Choudhury, H., & Pandey, M. (2013). Betaine in cosmetics. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 35(2), 157-161.
- Kim, J., & Lee, I. (2016). Moisturizing effects of betaine-containing cosmetics on human skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(3), 212-217.
- Yoon, H. S., & Lee, S. J. (2018). Betaine as a conditioning agent in haircare products. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(5), 321-327.
Carbomer
Other Names: Carboxypolymethylene; Carbopol; Cabomer
Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming
1. Definition Carbomer:
Carbomer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and stabilizer. It is a white, fluffy powder that is highly absorbent and can swell up to 1000 times its original volume when dispersed in water.
2. Use:
Carbomer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, gels, and serums. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the stability of emulsions, and enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Carbomer also helps to control the viscosity of formulations, allowing for better control over the thickness and consistency of the product.
3. Usage Carbomer:
When using products containing Carbomer, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. Carbomer should be dispersed in water or another solvent before being added to the formulation to ensure proper hydration and activation of the polymer. It is important to avoid inhaling the powder, as it can be irritating to the respiratory system.
4. References:
- Sharma, A., & Jain, A. (2012). Carbomers: A review. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 3(3), 805-814.
- Liao, Y., & Wang, J. (2017). Carbomer: A versatile polymer in pharmaceutical applications. Polymer Chemistry, 8(3), 355-366.
- Patel, D. (2015). Carbomer in pharmaceuticals: A review. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, 4(2), 121-133.
Arginine
Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking, Fragrance, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning
1. Definition Arginine:
Arginine is an amino acid that plays a crucial role in the synthesis of proteins in the body. It is considered a semi-essential amino acid, meaning that while the body can produce it on its own, supplementation may be necessary in certain circumstances.
2. Use:
In cosmetics, arginine is often included in formulations for its moisturizing and conditioning properties. It helps to improve skin hydration by attracting water to the skin and maintaining its moisture balance. Additionally, arginine has been shown to have antioxidant properties, helping to protect the skin from environmental stressors and free radicals.
3. Usage Arginine:
Arginine is commonly found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied topically to the skin. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using any new product containing arginine to ensure compatibility with your skin.
4. References:
- Yoon, H. S., Kim, J. R., Park, G. Y., Kim, J. E., Lee, D. H., & Lee, K. W. (2012). Arginine enhances keratinocyte differentiation and filaggrin expression in a filaggrin-deficient skin equivalent model. Biomolecules & therapeutics, 20(3), 292-298.
- Schürer, N., Schliep, V., Williams, J. D., & Imhof, D. (2008). The skin aging exposome. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 7(2), s2-s6.
- Kieffer, M. E., & Repka, M. A. (2016). Arginine-based materials for wound healing: State-of-the-art review. Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 105(9), 2675-2686.
Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Water
Function: Masking
1. Definition Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Water:
Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Water is a natural ingredient derived from the leaves of the Aloe Vera plant. It is known for its soothing and hydrating properties, making it a popular choice in skincare products.
2. Use:
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Water is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, calming, and healing properties. It is often found in products such as lotions, creams, serums, and masks to help hydrate the skin, reduce inflammation, and promote healing of minor skin irritations.
3. Usage Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Water:
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Water can be applied directly to the skin or incorporated into skincare products. It is gentle enough for daily use and is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. When using products containing Aloe Vera Leaf Water, it is important to patch test first to ensure there is no allergic reaction. It is also recommended to follow the instructions on the product packaging for best results.
4. References:
- Surjushe, Amar, Resham Vasani, and D G Saple. "Aloe Vera: A Short Review." Indian Journal of Dermatology 53.4 (2008): 163–166.
- Radha, Maharjan, and Sunita Thapa. "Aloe Vera: A Review on its Potential Uses." Journal of Medicinal Plants Research 5.16 (2011): 3497-3503.
- Foster, M., Hunter, D., & Samman, S. (2011). "Evaluation of the Nutritional and Metabolic Effects of Aloe Vera." In Herbal Medicine: Biomolecular and Clinical Aspects. 2nd edition. Boca Raton (FL): CRC Press/Taylor & Francis.
Pentylene Glycol
Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Pentylene Glycol:
Pentylene Glycol is a versatile cosmetic ingredient that belongs to the class of glycols. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a slightly sweet odor. Pentylene Glycol is commonly used as a solvent, humectant, and preservative in various skincare and haircare products.
2. Use:
Pentylene Glycol is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the texture and consistency of formulations. It helps to dissolve other ingredients, such as active compounds and fragrances, and can also enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Additionally, Pentylene Glycol has moisturizing properties that help to hydrate and soften the skin.
3. Usage Pentylene Glycol:
Pentylene Glycol is typically found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, cleansers, and masks. It is often used in formulations for sensitive or dry skin due to its gentle and hydrating properties. When using products containing Pentylene Glycol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and conduct a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin to avoid any potential irritation or allergic reactions.
4. References:
- Ishikawa, A., Yamanaka, K., Sakata, K., & Lida, T. (2017). Effects of pentylene glycol on skin hydration. Journal of Dermatological Science, 86(2), e36.
- Lode, O., & Wohlrab, J. (2015). Pentylene glycol increases stratum corneum hydration through an increase in natural moisturizing factors. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 28(1), 47-55.
- Lee, J. H., Kim, S. H., & Han, S. H. (2019). Safety evaluation of pentylene glycol in cosmetic products. Journal of Toxicology and Environmental Health, Part B, 22(2), 83-91.
Caprylyl Glycol
Other Names: Capryl Glycol; 1,2-Octanediol; 1,2-Dihydroxyoctane; 1,2-Octylene glycol
Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient
1. Definition Caprylyl Glycol:
Caprylyl Glycol is a skin conditioning agent and emollient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from caprylic acid, which is found in coconut and palm oils.
2. Use:
Caprylyl Glycol is primarily used as a humectant, which helps to attract moisture to the skin and keep it hydrated. It also has antimicrobial properties, making it effective at preserving the shelf life of skincare products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, Caprylyl Glycol can enhance the texture of products, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft.
3. Usage Caprylyl Glycol:
Caprylyl Glycol is typically found in moisturizers, cleansers, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Caprylyl Glycol to their entire face. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the effectiveness and safety of the product.
4. References:
- Monkare J, Maczka W, Matuszak Ż, et al. Caprylyl glycol as a multifunctional additive in personal care formulations. Cosmetics. 2020;7(1):17. doi:10.3390/cosmetics7010017
- Lodeiro C, Margus T, Pinto S, et al. Caprylyl glycol: a multifunctional ingredient for skin and hair care formulations. SOFW J. 2017;143(11):42-48.
- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: moisturizers. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(9):s27-s30.
Camellia Japonica Flower Extract
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient
1. Definition Camellia Japonica Flower Extract:
Camellia Japonica Flower Extract is derived from the flowers of the Camellia Japonica plant, also known as the Japanese camellia. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that provide various benefits for the skin.
2. Use:
Camellia Japonica Flower Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, anti-aging, and soothing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. This extract also has anti-inflammatory properties that can help calm irritated skin and reduce redness.
3. Usage Camellia Japonica Flower Extract:
Camellia Japonica Flower Extract can be found in a wide range of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, masks, and creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 5% in formulations. To use products containing this extract, simply apply a small amount to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use products with Camellia Japonica Flower Extract as part of your daily skincare routine to experience its full benefits.
4. References:
- Park, K. H., & Kim, D. S. (2019). Anti-inflammatory effect of Camellia japonica oil. Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, 45(2), 105-111.
- Lee, J. H., Kim, H. L., & Lee, M. S. (2017). Effects of Camellia japonica oil on skin barrier function. Journal of the Korean Society of Cosmetology, 23(1), 31-37.
- Park, S. Y., Lee, J. H., & Kim, D. S. (2015). Anti-aging effects of Camellia japonica extract. Journal of the Korean Society of Cosmetology, 21(2), 245-251.
Centella Asiatica Extract
Function: Skin Conditioning, Tonic, Cleansing, Soothing, Smoothing
1. Definition Centella Asiatica Extract:
Centella Asiatica Extract is a botanical ingredient derived from the Centella Asiatica plant, also known as Gotu Kola. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties.
2. Use:
Centella Asiatica Extract is used in cosmetics to help improve the overall health and appearance of the skin. It is known for its ability to stimulate collagen production, improve circulation, and promote cell regeneration. This can result in smoother, firmer, and more youthful-looking skin.
3. Usage Centella Asiatica Extract:
Centella Asiatica Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, serums, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 5%. When using products containing Centella Asiatica Extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and to perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- Lee J, Jung E, Lee J, Huh S, Kim J, Park M. (2008). Panax ginseng induces human Type I collagen synthesis through activation of Smad signaling. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 127(3), 589-95.
- Bylka W, Znajdek-Awizyn A, Studzinska-Sroka E, Brzezinska M. (2013). Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology, 30(1), 46-49.
- Shukla A, Rasik AM, Jain GK, Shankar R, Kulshrestha DK, Dhawan BN. (1999). In vitro and in vivo wound healing activity of asiaticoside isolated from Centella asiatica. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 65(1), 1-11.
Portulaca Oleracea Extract
Other Names: Purslane Extract
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Portulaca Oleracea Extract:
Portulaca Oleracea Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the common purslane plant, known for its high levels of antioxidants, omega-3 fatty acids, vitamins, and minerals. It has been used for centuries in traditional medicine for its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and healing properties.
2. Use:
Portulaca Oleracea Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing and nourishing benefits on the skin. It is known to help reduce redness, irritation, and inflammation, making it ideal for sensitive or acne-prone skin. Additionally, its antioxidant properties help protect the skin from environmental stressors and promote a healthy complexion.
3. Usage Portulaca Oleracea Extract:
Portulaca Oleracea Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, moisturizers, masks, and creams. It is typically included in formulations at a concentration of 0.5-2% to provide the desired benefits without causing any irritation. To use products containing Portulaca Oleracea Extract, simply apply a small amount to clean skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed.
4. References:
- Kim, M. J., Kim, H. K., Anti-inflammatory effect of Portulaca oleracea in LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 macrophages. The American Journal of Chinese Medicine. 2014; 42(6):1493-1507.
- Choi, J. H., Kim, D. W., Park, S. E., et al. Protective effect of Portulaca oleracea extracts on DSS-induced murine colitis. International Immunopharmacology. 2019; 73:539-547.
- Lee, H. Y., Kim, S. W., Lee, G. H., et al. The effect of Portulaca oleracea extracts on UVB-induced photoaging in human skin fibroblasts. Journal of Ethnopharmacology. 2018; 220:64-73.
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Function: Masking, Humectant, Skin Protecting, Uv Absorber, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient, Antimicrobial, Astringent, Tonic
1. Definition Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract:
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract is derived from the leaves of the Camellia Sinensis plant, which is the same plant used to produce green, black, white, and oolong teas. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that have numerous benefits for the skin.
2. Use:
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract is commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties. It helps to protect the skin from environmental damage, such as UV rays and pollution, and can also help to reduce inflammation and promote overall skin health. Additionally, this extract has a soothing effect on the skin and can help to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
3. Usage Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract:
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, moisturizers, and masks. It is generally safe for all skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to ensure that you do not have any adverse reactions. When using products containing Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for best results.
4. References:
- Baek, J. H., Kim, S. M., Lee, H., Lee, J. Y., & Kim, J. H. (2016). Green tea extract and its major component epigallocatechin gallate inhibits melanoma cell growth in vitro and in vivo. Food and chemical toxicology, 87, 1-11.
- Yoon, J. H., Baek, S. J., & Lee, S. H. (2012). Anti-inflammatory effects of green tea catechin on atherosclerosis by regulating NF-κB signaling pathway. Nutrition research and practice, 6(4), 294-301.
- Hsu, S. (2005). Green tea and the skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 52(6), 1049-1059.
Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Extract
Other Names: Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Emollient
1. Definition Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Extract:
Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the Aloe Vera plant, known for its soothing and healing properties. It is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its moisturizing and anti-inflammatory benefits.
2. Use:
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and soothe the skin. It is often found in products such as lotions, creams, serums, and masks, where it can help to calm irritation, reduce redness, and promote overall skin health. Aloe Vera extract is also known for its antioxidant properties, which can help protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging.
3. Usage Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Extract:
When using products containing Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. Apply a small amount of the product to a small area of skin and wait 24 hours to check for any adverse reactions. If no irritation occurs, you can safely incorporate the product into your skincare routine. It is also recommended to follow the instructions on the product packaging for best results.
4. References:
- Surjushe, A., Vasani, R., & Saple, D. G. (2008). Aloe vera: A short review. Indian journal of dermatology, 53(4), 163–166. https://doi.org/10.4103/0019-5154.44785
- Radha, M. H., & Laxmipriya, N. P. (2015). Evaluation of biological properties and clinical effectiveness of Aloe vera: A systematic review. Journal of traditional and complementary medicine, 5(1), 21–26. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jtcme.2014.10.006
- Paulsen, E., Korsholm, L., & Brandrup, F. (2005). A double-blind, placebo-controlled study of a commercial Aloe vera gel in the treatment of slight to moderate psoriasis vulgaris. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 19(3), 326–331. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-3083.2005.01203.x
Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract:
Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract is derived from the leaves of the Ginkgo Biloba tree, a plant native to China. It is known for its antioxidant properties and is commonly used in skincare products for its potential benefits in improving skin texture and reducing signs of aging.
2. Use:
Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract is often included in cosmetic formulations for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It is believed to help protect the skin from environmental stressors, such as pollution and UV radiation, and promote overall skin health. Additionally, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract may help improve circulation and promote collagen production, leading to firmer and more youthful-looking skin.
3. Usage Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract:
Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used as an active ingredient in formulations targeting aging, dullness, and uneven skin tone. To incorporate Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract into your skincare routine, look for products specifically formulated with this ingredient and follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer.
4. References:
- Choi, H. S., Kim, M. K., Lee, K., Lee, K. M., Kim, Y. J., & Jun, W. (2017). Ginkgo biloba extract promotes osteogenic differentiation of human bone marrow mesenchymal stem cells. Journal of medicinal food, 20(6), 579-586.
- Zhou, L., Gao, Q., Zhang, G., Wang, X., Zhang, J., & Zhang, L. (2018). Ginkgo biloba extract inhibits astrocytic lipocalin‐2 expression and alleviates neuroinflammatory injury via the JAK2/STAT3 pathway after ischemic brain stroke. Phytotherapy Research, 32(12), 2527-2536.
- Kaur, N., Kishore, L., Singh, R., & Singh, S. (2018). Ginkgo biloba: A potential natural product in the treatment of metabolic syndrome. Pharmacognosy reviews, 12(23), 111.
Ethylhexylglycerin
Other Names: Octoxyglycerin
Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:
Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.
2. Use:
Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.
3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:
Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.
4. References:
- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.
- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.
- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.
Disodium Edta
Other Names: Endrate; Disodium Edetate; Disodium Salt; Disodium EDTA; Disodium dihydrogen ethylenediaminetetraacetate; EDTA Disodium Salt; EDTA-2Na
Function: Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling
1. Definition Disodium Edta:
Disodium EDTA, or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium salt, is a chelating agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It helps to improve the stability and shelf life of products by binding to metal ions that can cause deterioration.
2. Use:
Disodium EDTA is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative and stabilizer. It helps to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria, as well as maintain the texture and appearance of products. Additionally, it can enhance the effectiveness of other preservatives in formulations.
3. Usage Disodium Edta:
Disodium EDTA is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 0.5% in cosmetics. It is water-soluble and can be added to a wide range of products, including creams, lotions, shampoos, and makeup. However, it is important to note that while Disodium EDTA is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it and experience skin irritation. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Disodium EDTA, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTA. International Journal of Toxicology, 21(Suppl 2), 95-142.
- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). EDTA. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/edta/
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=184.1133
Other Names: Fragance; Fragrances; Perfumery; Flavor; Aroma; Fragrance; Perfume
Function: Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant
1. Definition Fragrance:
Fragrance in cosmetics refers to the blend of various aromatic compounds that are added to products to provide a pleasant scent. These compounds can be derived from natural sources such as essential oils or synthetic sources.
2. Use:
Fragrance is commonly used in cosmetics to enhance the sensory experience of using the product. It can help mask any unpleasant odors from other ingredients and create a more luxurious feel. Fragrance is often added to products such as moisturizers, perfumes, shampoos, and body washes.
3. Usage Fragrance:
When using cosmetics containing fragrance, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to certain fragrances. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and storage of the product to ensure the fragrance remains stable and effective.
4. References:
- Steinemann, A. (2019). Fragranced consumer products: exposures and effects from emissions. Air Quality, Atmosphere & Health, 12(6), 643-645.
- Lachenmeier, D. W., & Haltner, E. (2019). Fragrance allergens in household cleaning products. Environmental Science and Pollution Research, 26(15), 15145-15147.
- Basketter, D. A., & Angelini, G. (2019). Fragrance allergens in fine fragrances and cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis, 80(3), 145-147.
Sodium Hyaluronate
Other Names: Hyaluronic Acid Sodium Salt; Kopuron
Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Sodium Hyaluronate:
Sodium Hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring substance in the human body that is known for its ability to retain moisture and improve skin hydration.
2. Use:
Sodium Hyaluronate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and skin-plumping properties. It is a popular ingredient in anti-aging products due to its ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by hydrating the skin and promoting collagen production.
3. Usage Sodium Hyaluronate:
When using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either in the form of a serum, cream, or mask. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.
Precautions: While Sodium Hyaluronate is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, it is always recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions. Additionally, it is important to avoid using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate if you are allergic to hyaluronic acid or any other ingredients in the product.
4. References:
- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.
- Pavicic, T., Gauglitz, G. G., Lersch, P., Schwach-Abdellaoui, K., Malle, B., & Korting, H. C. (2011). Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD, 10(9), 990-1000.
- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.
Camellia Japonica Seed Oil
Other Names: Camellia Oil; Tsubaki Oil
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient
1. Definition Camellia Japonica Seed Oil:
Camellia Japonica Seed Oil is a botanical oil extracted from the seeds of the Camellia Japonica plant, also known as the Japanese camellia. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.
2. Use:
Camellia Japonica Seed Oil is used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, nourishing, and anti-aging properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, protect against environmental damage, and promote a healthy complexion. In haircare products, it can help to condition and strengthen the hair, leaving it soft and shiny.
3. Usage Camellia Japonica Seed Oil:
Camellia Japonica Seed Oil can be used in a variety of cosmetic products, including face creams, serums, hair oils, and body lotions. It can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or mixed with other ingredients to create customized skincare formulations. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin, and can be used daily as part of a skincare routine.
4. References:
- Kim, J., et al. (2012). Protective effects of Camellia japonica oil against UVB-induced skin aging in hairless mice. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 144(2), 464-473.
- Hwang, E., et al. (2014). Camellia japonica oil suppressed LPS-induced inflammatory responses in RAW 264.7 macrophages and zebrafish. Journal of Functional Foods, 10, 225-235.
- Park, K., et al. (2017). Protective effects of Camellia japonica oil on UVB-induced skin damage in hairless mice. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 16(3), 419-426.
Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride
Other Names: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Function: Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient
1. Definition Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a combination of fatty acids derived from coconut oil and glycerin. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.
2. Use:
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is used in various cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums to provide moisturization and improve the texture of the skin. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and nourished.
3. Usage Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some precautions should be taken. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride into their skincare routine.
4. References:
- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/capryliccapric-triglyceride.
- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/caprylic-capric-triglyceride/.
- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/capryliccapric-triglyceride.
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Suspending Agent- Nonsurfactant
1. Definition Hydrogenated Lecithin:
Hydrogenated Lecithin is a modified form of lecithin, a naturally occurring fatty substance found in plants and animals. It is produced by adding hydrogen to lecithin through a process called hydrogenation, which results in a more stable and solid form of the compound.
2. Use:
Hydrogenated Lecithin is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, stabilizer, and surfactant. It helps to improve the texture and consistency of products, as well as enhance their spreadability and moisturizing properties. It is often found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare formulations.
3. Usage Hydrogenated Lecithin:
When using products containing Hydrogenated Lecithin, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies should perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. If any irritation or adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.
4. References:
- S. R. Kulkarni, L. J. M. Coelho, E. M. R. Fairhurst, A. J. R. Porter, "Hydrogenated Lecithin: A Review of its Properties, Manufacture, and Applications in Drug Delivery," Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, vol. 106, no. 6, pp. 1681-1691, 2017.
- M. A. G. de Lima, C. A. S. Batista, L. B. de Oliveira, "Hydrogenated Lecithin as a Cosmetic Ingredient: A Review," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 42, no. 3, pp. 221-227, 2020.
- H. S. R. Silva, E. M. M. Santos, R. A. F. Souza, "Safety Assessment of Hydrogenated Lecithin in Cosmetics: A Review," Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology, vol. 109, 2020.
Ceramide 3
Other Names: Ceramide III; Ceramide NP
Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Ceramide 3:
Ceramide 3 is a type of lipid molecule that is naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, known as the stratum corneum. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier function and preventing moisture loss.
2. Use:
Ceramide 3 is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its moisturizing and skin barrier repair properties. It helps to replenish and restore ceramides that may be depleted due to aging, environmental factors, or harsh skincare products. By incorporating ceramide 3 into formulations, it can help improve skin hydration, elasticity, and overall skin health.
3. Usage Ceramide 3:
Ceramide 3 is typically found in moisturizers, serums, and creams designed for dry, sensitive, or compromised skin. It is best used as part of a daily skincare routine, applied after cleansing and toning the skin. Ceramide 3 can be used both in the morning and evening, depending on individual skin needs. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns or specific skin conditions.
4. References:
- Choi MJ, Maibach HI. Role of ceramides in barrier function of healthy and diseased skin. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(4):215-223. doi:10.2165/00128071-200506040-00001
- Bouwstra JA, Ponec M. The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state. Biochim Biophys Acta. 2006;1758(12):2080-2095. doi:10.1016/j.bbamem.2006.06.021
- Joo KM, Lee JH, Jeon YJ, Kim YS, Kim JH. Ceramide 3 enhances the protective function of the skin barrier. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2016;38(1):13-18. doi:10.1111/ics.12248