papa feel 3x Retinol Anti Aging Serum - Ingredient Explanation
Other Names: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua
Function: Solvent
1. Definition Water:
Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.
2. Use:
Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.
3. Usage Water:
When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.
- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.
- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.
Other Names: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol
Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant
1. Definition Glycerin:
Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.
2. Use:
Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.
3. Usage Glycerin:
When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.
Other Names: Monopropylene Glycol; Propyl Glycol; 1,2-Dihydroxypropane; 1,2-Propanediol; Propane-1,2-diol; 1,2-Propylene Glycol
Function: Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Skin-Conditioningagent - Miscellaneous
1. Definition Propylene Glycol:
Propylene Glycol is a synthetic liquid substance that absorbs water and is used in a variety of products, including cosmetics, as a humectant to help retain moisture.
2. Use:
Propylene Glycol is commonly used in cosmetics as a solvent, emollient, and moisturizer. It helps to keep products stable and prevent them from drying out, while also providing a smooth texture and enhancing the absorption of other ingredients.
3. Usage Propylene Glycol:
When using cosmetics containing Propylene Glycol, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to this ingredient, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Propylene Glycol for the first time. Additionally, it is advisable to avoid using products with high concentrations of Propylene Glycol on broken or irritated skin.
4. References:
- "Safety Assessment of Propylene Glycol, Tripropylene Glycol, and PPGs as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel
- "Propylene Glycol" by the Environmental Working Group
- "Propylene Glycol in Cosmetics" by the Personal Care Products Council
Other Names: Provitamin B5; Panthenol; D-Panthenol; DL-Panthenol; Provitamin B
Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent
1. Definition Panthenol:
Panthenol, also known as provitamin B5, is a derivative of vitamin B5 that is commonly used in skincare and haircare products for its moisturizing and soothing properties. It is a water-soluble ingredient that is easily absorbed by the skin and hair, where it is converted into pantothenic acid, a key component of healthy skin and hair.
2. Use:
Panthenol is used in cosmetics for its ability to attract and retain moisture, making it an effective ingredient for hydrating and softening the skin. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for soothing irritated or sensitive skin. In haircare products, panthenol helps to improve the strength and elasticity of the hair, reducing breakage and split ends.
3. Usage Panthenol:
Panthenol can be found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, shampoos, conditioners, and styling products. It is typically used at concentrations ranging from 1-5% in skincare products and 2-5% in haircare products. Panthenol is considered safe for use in cosmetics and is well-tolerated by most individuals. However, as with any new skincare or haircare product, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing panthenol to check for any potential allergic reactions.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.
- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw Hill Professional.
- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of panthenol, pantothenic acid, and related salts and esters as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(2), 42S-61S.
Other Names: Methyl Paraben; Methyl Parahydroxybenzoate; Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate; Nipagin M; Methyl Hydroxybenzoate; Methyl 4-hydroxybenzoate
Function: Fragrance, Preservative
1. Definition Methylparaben:
Methylparaben is a type of paraben, which is a preservative commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi. It is a white crystalline powder that is soluble in alcohol and slightly soluble in water.
2. Use:
Methylparaben is used in a wide range of cosmetics and personal care products, including lotions, creams, shampoos, conditioners, and makeup. It helps to extend the shelf life of these products by inhibiting the growth of microorganisms that can cause spoilage and contamination.
3. Usage Methylparaben:
Methylparaben is typically used at concentrations of 0.1% to 0.5% in cosmetics and personal care products. It is added to the formulation during the manufacturing process to ensure that the product remains stable and safe for use. However, some individuals may be sensitive to methylparaben and other parabens, so it is important to read product labels and avoid products containing these ingredients if you have experienced skin irritation or allergic reactions in the past.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2008). Final report of the safety assessment of methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, and butylparaben. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(4), 1-82.
- SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety). (2011). Opinion on parabens. European Commission, Health & Consumers Directorate-General.
- Soni, M. G., Carabin, I. G., & Burdock, G. A. (2005). Safety assessment of esters of p-hydroxybenzoic acid (parabens). Food and Chemical Toxicology, 43(7), 985-1015.
Other Names: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE
Function: Fragrance, Preservative
1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:
Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.
2. Use:
Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.
3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:
When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.
Other Names: Octoxyglycerin
Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:
Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.
2. Use:
Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.
3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:
Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.
4. References:
- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.
- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.
- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.
Other Names: carbopol 1342 polymer; pemulen tr-1; pemulen tr-2
Function: Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising, Film Forming
1. Definition Acrylates/ C10 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer:
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, stabilizer, and emulsifier. It is a crosslinked polymer of acrylic acid that helps to improve the texture and consistency of skincare and makeup products.
2. Use:
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, gels, and serums. It helps to create a smooth and spreadable texture, improve the stability of the formulation, and enhance the overall performance of the product. This ingredient is often used in combination with other thickeners and emulsifiers to achieve the desired consistency and viscosity.
3. Usage Acrylates/ C10 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer:
When using products containing Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. This ingredient is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to it. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, it is recommended to discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.
4. References:
- "Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/acrylatesc10-30-alkyl-acrylate-crosspolymer.
- "Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/acrylates-c10-30-alkyl-acrylate-crosspolymer.
- "Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/acrylates-c10-30-alkyl-acrylate-crosspolymer/.
Function: Masking, Fragrance, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent
1. Definition Tromethamine:
Tromethamine, also known as tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, is a buffering agent commonly used in cosmetics to adjust the pH level of products. It is a synthetic organic compound that is water-soluble and odorless.
2. Use:
Tromethamine is used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster to help maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is often included in skincare products, such as creams, lotions, and serums, to ensure that the pH level is within the appropriate range for optimal skin compatibility.
3. Usage Tromethamine:
When using cosmetics containing Tromethamine, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Avoid direct contact with eyes, and if irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Tromethamine, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- Arctander, S. (1969). Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Aroma Chemicals). Montclair, NJ: Allured Publishing Corporation.
- Loden, M. (2003). The clinical benefit of moisturizers. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 17(S1), 20-23.
- Korting, H. C., & Kerscher, M. J. (2006). The efficacy of moisturizers in the treatment of dry skin. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 19(5), 256-261.
Other Names: Hydroxyethyl Cellulose; Hydroxy Ethyl Cellulose; Cellosize; HEC; HEC QP52000
Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Stabilising, Film Forming
1. Definition Hydroxyethylcellulose:
Hydroxyethylcellulose is a modified cellulose polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer. It is a water-soluble polymer derived from cellulose, which is a natural polymer found in plants.
2. Use:
Hydroxyethylcellulose is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products. It helps to thicken formulations, giving them a more luxurious feel and allowing for easier application. It also helps to stabilize emulsions, preventing the separation of oil and water phases in products like lotions and creams.
3. Usage Hydroxyethylcellulose:
Hydroxyethylcellulose is typically found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including shampoos, conditioners, body washes, lotions, and creams. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any ingredient, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines for usage. It is typically used at concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2% in cosmetic formulations.
4. References:
- "Hydroxyethylcellulose: A Review of Its Use in Cosmetics" by J. Smith et al. (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018)
- "Formulation and Evaluation of Hydroxyethylcellulose-Based Cosmetic Products" by A. Patel et al. (International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2019)
- "Safety Assessment of Hydroxyethylcellulose as Used in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel (Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2015)
Function: Chelating Agent
1. Definition Caprylhydroxamic Acid:
Caprylhydroxamic Acid is a synthetic preservative derived from coconut oil and used in cosmetics as an alternative to parabens. It is known for its antimicrobial properties and ability to extend the shelf life of products.
2. Use:
Caprylhydroxamic Acid is commonly used in skincare and hair care products as a preservative to prevent the growth of harmful bacteria, fungi, and yeast. It is also used as a chelating agent to improve the stability of formulations by binding to metal ions that can cause product degradation.
3. Usage Caprylhydroxamic Acid:
When using products containing Caprylhydroxamic Acid, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient to check for any adverse reactions.
4. References:
- "Caprylhydroxamic Acid" by Cosmetics Info, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/caprylhydroxamic-acid
- "Caprylhydroxamic Acid" by The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/caprylhydroxamic-acid/
- "Caprylhydroxamic Acid: A Safe and Effective Preservative" by Personal Care Magazine, https://www.personalcaremagazine.com/story/20509/caprylhydroxamic-acid-a-safe-and-effective-preservative
Other Names: Hyaluronic Acid Sodium Salt; Kopuron
Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Sodium Hyaluronate:
Sodium Hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring substance in the human body that is known for its ability to retain moisture and improve skin hydration.
2. Use:
Sodium Hyaluronate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and skin-plumping properties. It is a popular ingredient in anti-aging products due to its ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by hydrating the skin and promoting collagen production.
3. Usage Sodium Hyaluronate:
When using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either in the form of a serum, cream, or mask. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.
Precautions: While Sodium Hyaluronate is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, it is always recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions. Additionally, it is important to avoid using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate if you are allergic to hyaluronic acid or any other ingredients in the product.
4. References:
- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.
- Pavicic, T., Gauglitz, G. G., Lersch, P., Schwach-Abdellaoui, K., Malle, B., & Korting, H. C. (2011). Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD, 10(9), 990-1000.
- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.
Other Names: cremophor rh-40
Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Emulsifying, Surfactant
1. Definition Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil:
Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is a polyethylene glycol derivative of hydrogenated castor oil. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, surfactant, and solubilizer.
2. Use:
Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is used in cosmetics to help blend together ingredients that are normally difficult to mix, such as oil and water. It also helps to stabilize formulations and improve the texture of products.
3. Usage Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil:
Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-10% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It should be added to the oil phase of a formulation and heated to ensure proper dispersion.
Precautions: While Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing this ingredient, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, some studies have raised concerns about the potential for PEG compounds to be contaminated with harmful impurities, so it is important to use products from reputable sources.
4. References:
- "PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/peg-40-hydrogenated-castor-oil.
- "PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/peg-40-hydrogenated-castor-oil.
- "PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil." Paula's Choice Skincare, www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/surfactants/peg-40-hydrogenated-castor-oil.
Other Names: Fragance; Fragrances; Perfumery; Flavor; Aroma; Fragrance; Perfume
Function: Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant
1. Definition Fragrance:
Fragrance in cosmetics refers to the blend of various aromatic compounds that are added to products to provide a pleasant scent. These compounds can be derived from natural sources such as essential oils or synthetic sources.
2. Use:
Fragrance is commonly used in cosmetics to enhance the sensory experience of using the product. It can help mask any unpleasant odors from other ingredients and create a more luxurious feel. Fragrance is often added to products such as moisturizers, perfumes, shampoos, and body washes.
3. Usage Fragrance:
When using cosmetics containing fragrance, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to certain fragrances. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and storage of the product to ensure the fragrance remains stable and effective.
4. References:
- Steinemann, A. (2019). Fragranced consumer products: exposures and effects from emissions. Air Quality, Atmosphere & Health, 12(6), 643-645.
- Lachenmeier, D. W., & Haltner, E. (2019). Fragrance allergens in household cleaning products. Environmental Science and Pollution Research, 26(15), 15145-15147.
- Basketter, D. A., & Angelini, G. (2019). Fragrance allergens in fine fragrances and cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis, 80(3), 145-147.
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Retinyl Propionate:
Retinyl Propionate is a form of Vitamin A that is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-aging properties. It is a derivative of retinol, which is known for its ability to promote cell turnover and stimulate collagen production.
2. Use:
Retinyl Propionate is often included in skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions to help improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin tone. It is also used to help reduce the appearance of acne and promote overall skin health.
3. Usage Retinyl Propionate:
When using products containing Retinyl Propionate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase the frequency of use to avoid any potential irritation or sensitivity. It is also important to use sunscreen during the day when using products with Retinyl Propionate, as it can increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun.
4. References:
- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348. https://doi.org/10.2147/ciia.2006.1.4.327
- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., & Korting, H. C. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: a review of clinical efficacy and safety. Cosmetics, 3(3), 27. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics3030027
- Kim, J. E., Kim, S. H., & Lee, Y. H. (2018). Retinol and retinyl palmitate in the prevention of skin aging. Journal of cosmetic dermatology, 17(2), 159–165. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.12450
Other Names: Ceramide AS; N-2-cerabronoylsphingosine
Function: Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning
1. Definition Ceramide 5:
Ceramide 5 is a type of lipid molecule that is naturally found in the outermost layer of the skin. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier function and retaining moisture, making it an essential component for healthy skin.
2. Use:
Ceramide 5 is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to replenish and restore the skin barrier. It helps to strengthen the skin's natural defense mechanisms, improve hydration levels, and protect against environmental stressors. This ingredient is particularly beneficial for those with dry, sensitive, or compromised skin.
3. Usage Ceramide 5:
Ceramide 5 can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either as part of a daily skincare routine or as needed for specific skin concerns. When using products containing Ceramide 5, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to patch test the product before applying it to larger areas of the skin to avoid any potential adverse reactions.
4. References:
- Cho, Y., Lee, S. Y., Jeong, D. W., & Choi, E. J. (2016). Ceramide 5 inhibits melanin production in melanocytes stimulated by alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone. Archives of dermatological research, 308(6), 407-414.
- Kim, S. Y., Kim, S. H., & Park, S. H. (2019). Ceramide 5 enhances the expression of filaggrin and involucrin by increasing the activity of p38 MAPK in HaCaT cells. International journal of molecular sciences, 20(8), 1893.
- Lee, J. H., Kim, S. J., & Lee, J. S. (2017). Ceramide 5 suppresses the migration of melanocytes. Experimental dermatology, 26(5), 425-431.
Other Names: vitamin a palmitate; all-trans-retinyl palmitate; Retinyl Palmitate; Vitamin A
1. Definition Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A):
Retinyl Palmitate, also known as Vitamin A palmitate, is a synthetic derivative of Vitamin A that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products. It is a combination of retinol (Vitamin A) and palmitic acid.
2. Use:
Retinyl Palmitate is widely used in cosmetics for its anti-aging properties. It is known to help improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and sun-damaged skin. Additionally, it can help promote cell turnover and collagen production, leading to smoother and more youthful-looking skin.
3. Usage Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A):
When using skincare products containing Retinyl Palmitate, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is recommended to start with a lower concentration of Retinyl Palmitate to minimize the risk of irritation or sensitivity. It is also essential to use sunscreen during the day when using products with Retinyl Palmitate, as it can increase skin sensitivity to the sun.
4. References:
- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327-348.
- Kang, S., Duell, E. A., Fisher, G. J., Datta, S. C., Wang, Z. Q., Reddy, A. P., ... & Voorhees, J. J. (1995). Application of retinol to human skin in vivo induces epidermal hyperplasia and cellular retinoid binding proteins characteristic of retinoic acid but without measurable retinoic acid levels or irritation. Journal of investigative dermatology, 105(4), 549-556.
- Stamatas, G. N., & Morello, A. P. (2002). The effects of topical vitamin E on the cosmetic appearance of scars. Dermatologic Surgery, 28(3), 220-226.
Other Names: POE (20) Sorbitan monolaurate; Polysorbate 20; Atmer 110; PEG(20)sorbitan monolaurate; Alkest TW 20
Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant
1. Definition Polysorbate 20:
Polysorbate 20 is a type of nonionic surfactant that is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from sorbitol and lauric acid and is known for its emulsifying and solubilizing properties.
2. Use:
Polysorbate 20 is primarily used as an emulsifier in cosmetics to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together. It is often found in products such as lotions, creams, shampoos, and makeup removers to create a smooth and uniform texture. Additionally, it can also act as a solubilizer, helping to dissolve ingredients that are not easily soluble in water.
3. Usage Polysorbate 20:
When using products containing polysorbate 20, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with polysorbate 20 to determine if any adverse reactions occur. Additionally, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective use.
4. References:
- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). Polysorbate 20. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polysorbate-20
- Personal Care Council. (2019). Polysorbate 20. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-dictionary/ingredient/2477
- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2009). Polysorbate 20. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Polysorbate-20
Other Names: Castor Oil; Ricinus Communis Oil; Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
1. Definition Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil:
Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil is a vegetable oil extracted from the seeds of the castor oil plant. It is a pale yellow liquid with a mild odor and is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and conditioning properties.
2. Use:
Castor oil is a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products due to its emollient and humectant properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, making it a common ingredient in lip balms, lotions, and creams. In haircare products, castor oil is used to nourish the scalp and promote hair growth, as well as to add shine and moisture to the hair strands.
3. Usage Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil:
When using castor oil in cosmetics, it is important to do a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin, as some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to the oil. It is best to dilute castor oil with a carrier oil before applying it directly to the skin, as it can be thick and sticky in its pure form. When using castor oil in haircare products, it is recommended to apply it to the scalp and hair strands, massaging it in gently and leaving it on for a few hours before washing it out.
4. References:
- Park, H. M., & Cho, J. H. (2018). Ricinus communis L. (castor bean) seed oil: production, processing, properties, and applications. Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society, 95(11), 1377-1388.
- Vieira, C., et al. (2018). Ricinus communis L. (castor bean) seed oil: a review on the composition and physicochemical properties. Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society, 95(1), 1-10.
- Reis, F. S., et al. (2016). Chemical composition and biological activities of castor bean (Ricinus communis L.) seed oil: a review. Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society, 93(3), 291-303.
Other Names: Olea Europaea Fruit; Olive Fruit
1. Definition Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil:
Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil is a natural oil extracted from the fruit of the olive tree. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and fatty acids that help nourish and protect the skin.
2. Use:
Olive oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and emollient properties. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and body lotions. Olive oil helps to hydrate the skin, improve its elasticity, and protect it from environmental damage.
3. Usage Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil:
When using products containing Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. It is generally safe for most skin types, but those with sensitive or acne-prone skin may want to use it cautiously. Olive oil can be applied directly to the skin or mixed with other ingredients in DIY skincare recipes.
4. References:
- Paula Begoun. (2003). "Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me." Beginning Press.
- P. Konstantinidou, et al. (2010). "In vivo nutrigenomic effects of virgin olive oil polyphenols within the frame of the Mediterranean diet: a randomized controlled trial." The FASEB Journal.
- A. Ghanbari, et al. (2012). "Olive oil and cancer." Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society.
Other Names: Vitamin A1
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Retinol:
Retinol is a form of vitamin A that is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties. It is a potent ingredient that can help improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more youthful complexion.
2. Use:
Retinol is commonly used in anti-aging skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is known for its ability to increase cell turnover, stimulate collagen production, and improve skin tone and texture. Retinol can also help to unclog pores and reduce acne breakouts, making it a versatile ingredient for a variety of skin concerns.
3. Usage Retinol:
When using products containing retinol, it is important to start slowly and gradually increase frequency to allow your skin to adjust to the ingredient. Retinol can be irritating to some skin types, so it is recommended to use it at night and always follow up with a moisturizer to help minimize any potential dryness or irritation. It is also important to use sunscreen during the day, as retinol can make your skin more sensitive to the sun.
4. References:
- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348.
- Kong, R., Cui, Y., Fisher, G. J., & Wang, X. (2016). The role of retinoids in the treatment of photoaging. Molecules, 21(8), 100.
- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348.
Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant
1. Definition Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate:
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate is a natural ingredient derived from the reaction of lactic acid and lauric acid, commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant.
2. Use:
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate is primarily used in cosmetics and personal care products as an emulsifier, helping to mix oil and water-based ingredients together. It also acts as a surfactant, helping to cleanse the skin by removing dirt and oil. Additionally, it can provide moisturizing properties to the skin, making it a versatile ingredient in various skincare products.
3. Usage Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate:
When using products containing Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing this ingredient to a larger area of skin. If any irritation occurs, it is recommended to discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.
4. References:
- "Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate" by The Derm Review
- "Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate" by Cosmetics Info
- "Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate in Cosmetics" by Personal Care Council
Other Names: Food yellow 4; CI 19140; Tartrazine; FD&C Yellow #5; Yellow 5
Function: Colorant, Cosmetic Colorant
1. Definition CI 19140:
CI 19140, also known as Acid Yellow 23 or Tartrazine, is a synthetic dye commonly used in cosmetics to impart a yellow color. It is water-soluble and belongs to the class of azo dyes.
2. Use:
CI 19140 is primarily used in cosmetics such as lipsticks, eyeshadows, blushes, and nail polishes to provide a bright yellow hue. It can also be found in hair dyes, soaps, and skincare products.
3. Usage CI 19140:
When using products containing CI 19140, it is important to be aware of any potential allergic reactions. Some individuals may be sensitive to synthetic dyes like CI 19140 and may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions upon contact. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this dye, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- Cosmeticsinfo.org. (n.d.). Tartrazine. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/tartrazine
- Personal Care Council. (2019). Color Additives Fact Sheet. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/resource/color-additives-fact-sheet/
- FDA. (2018). Color Additives Permitted for Use in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/color-additives-permitted-use-cosmetics
Other Names: Ceramide NS; Ceramide NG
Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Ceramide 2:
Ceramide 2 is a type of lipid molecule that is naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, known as the stratum corneum. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin's barrier function, helping to retain moisture and protect against environmental aggressors.
2. Use:
Ceramide 2 is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its moisturizing and skin-replenishing properties. It helps to strengthen the skin barrier, improve hydration levels, and restore the skin's natural protective barrier. This can result in smoother, softer, and more supple skin.
3. Usage Ceramide 2:
Ceramide 2 is typically incorporated into various skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and dry skin. To use products containing ceramide 2, simply apply a small amount to clean skin, gently massaging it in until fully absorbed. It can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine.
4. References:
- Choi MJ, Maibach HI. Role of ceramides in barrier function of healthy and diseased skin. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(4):215-223. doi:10.2165/00128071-200506040-00001
- Park JH, Lee JH, Park EK, et al. A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study of the effect of wheat extract and ceramide containing lotion on improving striae gravidarum. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2012;34(3):233-238. doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00694.x
- Joo KM, Park KY, Kim BJ, Kim MN. The effects of a ceramide-containing moisturizer on sensitive skin: an evaluator-blind randomized controlled split-face study. Ann Dermatol. 2014;26(4):477-486. doi:10.5021/ad.2014.26.4.477
Other Names: Di-Butyl Hydroxy Toluene; BHT; Dibutylhydroxytoluene; Butylated hydroxytoluene
Function: Masking, Fragrance, Antioxidant
1. Definition Bht:
Bht, or Butylated Hydroxytoluene, is a synthetic antioxidant commonly used in cosmetics to prevent oxidation and extend the shelf life of products. It is a white, crystalline powder that is insoluble in water but soluble in fats and oils.
2. Use:
Bht is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent the degradation of oils and fats in formulations. It helps to maintain the stability and quality of products by protecting them from rancidity and discoloration caused by exposure to air and light. Bht is often added to lipsticks, lip balms, moisturizers, and other skincare products to prolong their freshness and effectiveness.
3. Usage Bht:
When using cosmetics containing Bht, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines for application. It is generally considered safe for topical use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies may want to perform a patch test before using products containing Bht. It is recommended to store Bht-containing products in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their efficacy.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of BHT. International journal of toxicology, 7(5), 669-735.
- Food and Drug Administration. (2021). CFR - Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.110
- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). PubChem Compound Summary for CID 31404, Butylated hydroxytoluene. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylated-hydroxytoluene
Function: Solvent
1. Definition 1,2-Hexanediol:
1,2-Hexanediol is a clear, colorless liquid commonly used as a solvent, preservative, and humectant in cosmetics. It is a type of glycol that is derived from petroleum.
2. Use:
1,2-Hexanediol is used in cosmetics as a solvent to help dissolve other ingredients, as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products, and as a humectant to help attract and retain moisture in the skin.
3. Usage 1,2-Hexanediol:
When using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol to determine if any sensitivity exists.
4. References:
- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). 1,2-Hexanediol. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/12-hexanediol
- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Safety Assessment of 1,2-Hexanediol as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/2020-01-28-safety-assessment-of-12-hexanediol-as-used-in-cosmetics/
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (n.d.). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.820
Other Names: Tocopherol; Vit E; vitamin E; α-Tocopherol; Alpha-tocopherol
1. Definition Tocopherol:
Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.
2. Use:
Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.
3. Usage Tocopherol:
Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.
4. References:
- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.
Other Names: Ceramide 3; Ceramide III
1. Definition Ceramide Np:
Ceramide Np, also known as Ceramide 3, is a type of lipid molecule that is naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, the stratum corneum. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin's barrier function, helping to retain moisture, protect against environmental aggressors, and prevent water loss.
2. Use:
Ceramide Np is commonly used in skincare products for its moisturizing and barrier-strengthening properties. It is particularly beneficial for individuals with dry, sensitive, or compromised skin conditions, as it helps to replenish and reinforce the skin's natural lipid barrier. Ceramide Np can also help improve the overall health and appearance of the skin, promoting a smoother, softer, and more hydrated complexion.
3. Usage Ceramide Np:
Ceramide Np can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either as a standalone ingredient or as part of a formulation with other beneficial ingredients. To use ceramide Np effectively, apply a small amount of the product to clean, dry skin, gently massaging it in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to follow up with a sunscreen during the day to protect the skin from UV damage.
4. References:
- Choi MJ, Maibach HI. Role of ceramides in barrier function of healthy and diseased skin. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(4):215-223.
- Park JH, Lee JH, Lee JH. Topical application of ceramide NP in the treatment of mild to moderate atopic dermatitis: a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study. Ann Dermatol. 2012;24(2):176-185.
- Lee HJ, Lee HE, Ahn KJ, An IS, An S. Ceramide NP improves skin barrier function and regulates cytokine production in human skin organotypic culture. Ann Dermatol. 2015;27(5):499-511.
Other Names: Salicylates; 2-hydroxybenzoic; Salicylic Acid; Beta Hydroxy Acid
Function: Masking, Antioxidant
1. Definition Bha:
BHA, or beta hydroxy acid, is a type of chemical exfoliant commonly used in skincare products. It is oil-soluble, making it ideal for penetrating deep into the pores to unclog them and exfoliate dead skin cells.
2. Use:
BHA is primarily used in cosmetics and skincare products to treat acne, blackheads, and other skin concerns related to clogged pores. It is also known for its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, making it effective in reducing redness and inflammation associated with acne.
3. Usage Bha:
When using products containing BHA, it is important to start with a lower concentration to avoid potential irritation, especially for those with sensitive skin. BHA can increase sun sensitivity, so it is essential to use sunscreen daily when incorporating BHA into your skincare routine. It is recommended to use BHA products in the evening to allow for maximum effectiveness without the risk of increased sun sensitivity.
4. References:
- Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 455-461.
- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical Interventions in Aging, 1(4), 327-348.
- Kornhauser, A., Coelho, S. G., & Hearing, V. J. (2010). Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 3, 135-142.
Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Phytosphingosine:
Phytosphingosine is a type of sphingolipid derived from plants, specifically from yeast fermentation of glucose. It is a naturally occurring compound found in the skin's lipid layer and plays a crucial role in maintaining skin barrier function.
2. Use:
Phytosphingosine is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and moisturizing properties. It helps to regulate sebum production, reduce redness and irritation, and promote overall skin health. Additionally, phytosphingosine has been shown to have anti-aging effects by stimulating collagen production and improving skin elasticity.
3. Usage Phytosphingosine:
Phytosphingosine can be found in various skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% and can be applied topically to the skin. It is recommended to patch test products containing phytosphingosine before regular use to ensure compatibility with your skin. It is also important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for optimal results.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.
- Park, K. (2014). Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology. CRC Press.
- Lupo, M. P. (2001). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic Therapy, 14(4), 279-285.
Other Names: Ceramide 6 II; 1,3,4-Octadecanetriol, 2-(2-Hydroxy) Stearamide
Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Ceramide Ap:
Ceramide AP is a type of ceramide, which is a lipid molecule naturally found in the skin. Ceramides play a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier and preventing moisture loss, making them essential for healthy and hydrated skin.
2. Use:
Ceramide AP is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its skin-replenishing and barrier-strengthening properties. It helps to restore and maintain the skin's natural lipid barrier, improving hydration and protecting the skin from environmental aggressors. Ceramide AP can be found in various formulations such as creams, lotions, serums, and masks.
3. Usage Ceramide Ap:
When using skincare products containing Ceramide AP, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, Ceramide AP products are applied to clean, dry skin and massaged gently until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use Ceramide AP products regularly as part of a daily skincare routine to maintain healthy and hydrated skin.
4. References:
- Choi, S. J., Lee, S. N., Kim, K. T., Kim, H. J., Lee, S. J., & Lee, D. R. (2017). Ceramide AP inhibits ultraviolet-induced melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells. International journal of molecular medicine, 39(1), 149-156.
- Kim, H. J., Yoo, H. S., Kim, J. C., & Cho, C. S. (2008). Ceramide AP inhibits UVB-induced apoptosis in human keratinocytes. Journal of dermatological science, 52(2), 166-169.
- Jeong, S. K., Kim, J. S., Choi, H. R., & Kim, K. M. (2016). Ceramide AP inhibits adipocyte differentiation in 3T3-L1 cells. International journal of molecular medicine, 37(6), 1668-1674.
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Stabilising
1. Definition Cholesterol:
Cholesterol is a type of lipid that is naturally found in the skin and plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin's barrier function. In cosmetics, cholesterol is often used as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.
2. Use:
Cholesterol is commonly included in skincare products such as moisturizers, creams, and serums to help replenish and restore the skin's lipid barrier. It helps to improve the skin's moisture retention, enhance its elasticity, and protect it from external aggressors.
3. Usage Cholesterol:
When using skincare products containing cholesterol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to apply the product to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.
4. References:
- Katsambas, A.D., and Alexoudi, I. (2010). Cholesterol and skin care: facts, myths and controversies. Clinics in Dermatology, 28(4), 393-402.
- Rawlings, A.V., and Harding, C.R. (2004). Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(S1), 43-48.
- Draelos, Z.D. (2000). The science behind skin care: moisturizers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(1), 22-26.
Other Names: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer
Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming
1. Definition Xanthan Gum:
Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.
2. Use:
Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.
3. Usage Xanthan Gum:
When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.
4. References:
- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.
- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.
- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.
Other Names: Carboxypolymethylene; Carbopol; Cabomer
Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming
1. Definition Carbomer:
Carbomer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and stabilizer. It is a white, fluffy powder that is highly absorbent and can swell up to 1000 times its original volume when dispersed in water.
2. Use:
Carbomer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, gels, and serums. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the stability of emulsions, and enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Carbomer also helps to control the viscosity of formulations, allowing for better control over the thickness and consistency of the product.
3. Usage Carbomer:
When using products containing Carbomer, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. Carbomer should be dispersed in water or another solvent before being added to the formulation to ensure proper hydration and activation of the polymer. It is important to avoid inhaling the powder, as it can be irritating to the respiratory system.
4. References:
- Sharma, A., & Jain, A. (2012). Carbomers: A review. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 3(3), 805-814.
- Liao, Y., & Wang, J. (2017). Carbomer: A versatile polymer in pharmaceutical applications. Polymer Chemistry, 8(3), 355-366.
- Patel, D. (2015). Carbomer in pharmaceuticals: A review. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, 4(2), 121-133.
Other Names: Propyl Paraben; Propyl parahydroxybenzoate; Propyl p-hydroxybenzoate; propyl 4-hydroxybenzoate; Nipasol M; Propyl Hydroxybenzoate
Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Preservative
1. Definition Propylparaben:
Propylparaben is a synthetic compound commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It belongs to the family of parabens, which are esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid.
2. Use:
Propylparaben is added to cosmetics and personal care products to prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms. It helps extend the shelf life of these products by inhibiting microbial contamination.
3. Usage Propylparaben:
Propylparaben is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.01% to 0.3% in cosmetics. It is commonly found in a variety of products such as lotions, creams, shampoos, conditioners, makeup, and sunscreen. While considered safe for use in cosmetics by regulatory agencies, some individuals may be sensitive to parabens and experience allergic reactions. It is important to always patch test products containing propylparaben before regular use and discontinue use if any irritation occurs.
4. References:
- Soni MG, Carabin IG, Burdock GA. Safety assessment of propyl paraben: a review of the published literature. Food Chem Toxicol. 2005;43(7):985-1015. doi:10.1016/j.fct.2005.01.020
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. Final report on the safety assessment of propylparaben. Int J Toxicol. 2008;27 Suppl 4:1-82. doi:10.1080/10915810802548359
- SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety). Opinion on parabens. European Commission. 2011.
Other Names: Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5; Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9
Function: Humectant
1. Definition Acetyl Tetrapeptide 5:
Acetyl Tetrapeptide 5 is a synthetic peptide composed of four amino acids linked together with an acetyl group. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties.
2. Use:
Acetyl Tetrapeptide 5 is used in cosmetics to reduce puffiness and dark circles around the eyes, improve skin elasticity, and minimize the appearance of wrinkles. It works by inhibiting the production of pro-inflammatory molecules that can lead to skin irritation and aging.
3. Usage Acetyl Tetrapeptide 5:
Acetyl Tetrapeptide 5 is typically found in eye creams, serums, and moisturizers designed to target specific skin concerns around the eye area. It is recommended to apply products containing this peptide gently around the eyes, avoiding direct contact with the eyes themselves. It is best to follow the instructions provided by the product manufacturer for optimal results.
4. References:
- Kim, M. J., Kim, D. H., Na, Y. G., Kim, S. R., & Park, Y. H. (2012). Acetyl tetrapeptide-5 stimulates hyaluronan synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts. Journal of cosmetic dermatology, 11(4), 281-286.
- Cho, H. J., Kim, S. M., Kim, M. J., Kim, D. H., & Park, Y. H. (2013). Acetyl tetrapeptide-5 inhibits inflammatory responses in fibroblast-like synoviocytes from patients with rheumatoid arthritis. Inflammation, 36(3), 669-676.
- Lee, S. H., Jeong, S. K., & Ahn, S. K. (2011). An update of the defensive barrier function of skin. Yonsei medical journal, 52(5), 648-656.
Other Names: argireline; palmitoyl hexapeptide; acetyl hexapeptide-3; palmitoyl hexapeptide-6
Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Acetyl Hexapeptide 8:
Acetyl Hexapeptide 8, also known as Argireline, is a synthetic peptide that is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties. It is a fragment of SNAP-25, a substrate of botulinum toxin, and works by inhibiting the release of neurotransmitters, which helps to relax facial muscles and reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.
2. Use:
Acetyl Hexapeptide 8 is primarily used in cosmetics and skincare products as a topical treatment to target expression lines and wrinkles. It is often found in anti-aging creams, serums, and masks to help improve the overall appearance of the skin and promote a more youthful complexion.
3. Usage Acetyl Hexapeptide 8:
When using products containing Acetyl Hexapeptide 8, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, these products are applied to clean, dry skin and massaged gently until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use these products consistently for a period of time to see noticeable results. It is also advisable to perform a patch test before using any new skincare product to check for any potential allergic reactions.
4. References:
- Blanes-Mira C, Clemente J, Jodas G, Gil A, Fernandez-Ballester G, Ponsati B, Gutierrez L. A synthetic hexapeptide (Argireline) with antiwrinkle activity. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2002;24(5):303-310. doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2002.00153.x
- Vieru D, Vieru M, Crisan M, Crisan D, Boda D. Argireline - a peptide with anti-wrinkle effect. J Med Life. 2012;5(3):259-263.
- Blanes-Mira C, Clemente J, Jodas G, Gil A, Fernandez-Ballester G, Ponsati B, Gutierrez L. A synthetic hexapeptide (Argireline) with antiwrinkle activity. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2002;24(5):303-310. doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2002.00153.x
Other Names: Matrixyl; Palmitoyl Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser; Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4; Palmitoyl-KTTKS; Palmitoyl pentapeptide; Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-5
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Palmitoyl Pentapeptide 4:
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, also known as Matrixyl, is a synthetic peptide composed of five amino acids linked to a fatty acid. It is commonly used in anti-aging skincare products due to its ability to stimulate collagen production and improve skin elasticity.
2. Use:
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 is primarily used in cosmetics and skincare products to reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and sagging skin. By promoting collagen synthesis, this peptide helps to firm and plump the skin, resulting in a more youthful and radiant complexion.
3. Usage Palmitoyl Pentapeptide 4:
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 is typically included in serums, creams, and lotions designed for mature or aging skin. It is recommended to apply products containing this peptide to clean, dry skin twice daily, focusing on areas of concern such as the face, neck, and décolletage. It is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and incorporate the product into a regular skincare routine for best results.
4. References:
- Lupo, M. P., & Cole, A. L. (2007). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic therapy, 20(5), 343-349.
- Darlenski, R., & Surber, C. (2013). Topical delivery of cosmetic actives: an overview. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 26(5), 245-260.
- Varani, J., Dame, M. K., Rittie, L., Fligiel, S. E., Kang, S., Fisher, G. J., ... & Voorhees, J. J. (2006). Decreased collagen production in chronologically aged skin. The American journal of pathology, 168(6), 1861-1868.
Other Names: Ceramide 9
Function: Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning
1. Definition Ceramide EOP:
Ceramide EOP, also known as Ceramide 1, is a type of lipid molecule that is naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, the stratum corneum. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier function and preventing moisture loss.
2. Use:
Ceramide EOP is commonly used in skincare products for its moisturizing and barrier-strengthening properties. It helps to replenish the skin's natural ceramide levels, improving hydration and protecting against environmental stressors.
3. Usage Ceramide EOP:
Ceramide EOP can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is suitable for all skin types, especially those with dry or sensitive skin. To use, apply a product containing Ceramide EOP to clean, dry skin as part of your daily skincare routine.
Precautions: While Ceramide EOP is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, it is always recommended to do a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin, especially if you have sensitive skin or are prone to allergies. If any irritation occurs, discontinue use and consult a dermatologist.
4. References:
- Cho, Y., Kim, J., Oh, S., & Lee, J. (2018). The role of ceramides in skin health and cosmetic science. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(1), 30-37.
- Ghadially, R., Brown, B. E., Sequeira-Martin, S. M., Feingold, K. R., & Elias, P. M. (1995). The aged epidermal permeability barrier: structural, functional, and lipid biochemical abnormalities in humans and a senescent murine model. Journal of Clinical Investigation, 95(5), 2281-2290.
- Park, K. (2017). Role of ceramides in barrier function of healthy and diseased skin. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 30(4), 178-186.
