the NewLab. Niacinamide 5% + Alfa Arbutint 2% Serum - Ingredient Explanation
Other Names: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua
Function: Solvent
1. Definition Water:
Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.
2. Use:
Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.
3. Usage Water:
When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.
- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.
- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.
Other Names: Nicotinic acid amide; Nicotinamide
Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing
1. Definition Niacinamide:
Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that is commonly used in skincare products for its various benefits for the skin.
2. Use:
Niacinamide is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, and dullness. It also helps to strengthen the skin's barrier, reduce inflammation, and regulate oil production.
3. Usage Niacinamide:
Niacinamide can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is typically applied topically to the skin and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing niacinamide.
Precautions: While niacinamide is generally considered safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience mild irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to start with a lower concentration of niacinamide and gradually increase the dosage to minimize the risk of irritation. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating niacinamide into your skincare routine, especially if you have any pre-existing skin conditions.
4. References:
- Schagen, S. K., Zampeli, V. A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 298-307.
- Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7), 860-865.
- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.
Other Names: Monopropylene Glycol; Propyl Glycol; 1,2-Dihydroxypropane; 1,2-Propanediol; Propane-1,2-diol; 1,2-Propylene Glycol
Function: Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Skin-Conditioningagent - Miscellaneous
1. Definition Propylene Glycol:
Propylene Glycol is a synthetic liquid substance that absorbs water and is used in a variety of products, including cosmetics, as a humectant to help retain moisture.
2. Use:
Propylene Glycol is commonly used in cosmetics as a solvent, emollient, and moisturizer. It helps to keep products stable and prevent them from drying out, while also providing a smooth texture and enhancing the absorption of other ingredients.
3. Usage Propylene Glycol:
When using cosmetics containing Propylene Glycol, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to this ingredient, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Propylene Glycol for the first time. Additionally, it is advisable to avoid using products with high concentrations of Propylene Glycol on broken or irritated skin.
4. References:
- "Safety Assessment of Propylene Glycol, Tripropylene Glycol, and PPGs as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel
- "Propylene Glycol" by the Environmental Working Group
- "Propylene Glycol in Cosmetics" by the Personal Care Products Council
Other Names: Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract; Licorice Root Extract; Oil Soluble Licorice (Glycyrrhiza) Extract
Function: Perfuming, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant
1. Definition Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract:
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the root of the licorice plant. It contains various compounds such as glycyrrhizin, flavonoids, and saponins, which have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin brightening properties.
2. Use:
Licorice root extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and brightening effects. It helps to calm irritation, reduce redness, and even out skin tone. Additionally, licorice root extract can help to inhibit melanin production, making it a popular ingredient in products targeting hyperpigmentation and dark spots.
3. Usage Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract:
Licorice root extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as serums, creams, masks, and spot treatments. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied directly to the skin or mixed into formulations. It is generally considered safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using products containing licorice root extract to check for any potential allergies or sensitivities.
4. References:
- Cho, S., Lee, S., Lee, M. J., Lee, D. H., Won, C. H., Kim, S. M., ... & Chung, J. H. (2009). Dietary Aloe Vera Supplementation Improves Facial Wrinkles and Elasticity and It Increases the Type I Procollagen Gene Expression in Human Skin in vivo. Annals of Dermatology, 21(1), 6-11.
- Katiyar, S. K., & Mukhtar, H. (1997). Green tea polyphenol (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate treatment to mouse skin prevents UVB-induced infiltration of leukocytes, depletion of antigen-presenting cells, and oxidative stress. Journal of leukocyte biology, 61(5), 547-556.
- Hsu, S. (2005). Green tea and the skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 52(6), 1049-1059.
Other Names: Hydroquinone-alpha-D-glucopyranoside; 4-Hydroxyphenyl-alpha-D-glucopyranoside; α-Arbutin
Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant
1. Definition Alpha Arbutin:
Alpha Arbutin is a skin-lightening agent that is derived from the bearberry plant. It is a type of hydroquinone derivative that is commonly used in skincare products to reduce the appearance of dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and melasma.
2. Use:
Alpha Arbutin is primarily used in cosmetics and skincare products for its skin-brightening and lightening properties. It works by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase, which is responsible for the production of melanin in the skin. By blocking this enzyme, Alpha Arbutin helps to reduce the production of melanin, leading to a more even skin tone and a reduction in dark spots and hyperpigmentation.
3. Usage Alpha Arbutin:
When using products containing Alpha Arbutin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, Alpha Arbutin is used in concentrations ranging from 1-2% in skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is recommended to apply the product to clean, dry skin once or twice daily, depending on the instructions. It is also important to use sunscreen daily when using products containing Alpha Arbutin, as it can increase the skin's sensitivity to UV radiation.
4. References:
- Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 455–461. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S84765
- Boissy, R. E., & Visscher, M. (2006). DeoxyArbutin: a novel reversible tyrosinase inhibitor with effective in vivo skin lightening potency. Experimental Dermatology, 15(9), 601–608. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1600-0625.2006.00449.x
- Smit, N., Vicanova, J., & Pavel, S. (2009). The hunt for natural skin whitening agents. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 10(12), 5326–5349. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms10125326
Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Pentylene Glycol:
Pentylene Glycol is a versatile cosmetic ingredient that belongs to the class of glycols. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a slightly sweet odor. Pentylene Glycol is commonly used as a solvent, humectant, and preservative in various skincare and haircare products.
2. Use:
Pentylene Glycol is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the texture and consistency of formulations. It helps to dissolve other ingredients, such as active compounds and fragrances, and can also enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Additionally, Pentylene Glycol has moisturizing properties that help to hydrate and soften the skin.
3. Usage Pentylene Glycol:
Pentylene Glycol is typically found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, cleansers, and masks. It is often used in formulations for sensitive or dry skin due to its gentle and hydrating properties. When using products containing Pentylene Glycol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and conduct a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin to avoid any potential irritation or allergic reactions.
4. References:
- Ishikawa, A., Yamanaka, K., Sakata, K., & Lida, T. (2017). Effects of pentylene glycol on skin hydration. Journal of Dermatological Science, 86(2), e36.
- Lode, O., & Wohlrab, J. (2015). Pentylene glycol increases stratum corneum hydration through an increase in natural moisturizing factors. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 28(1), 47-55.
- Lee, J. H., Kim, S. H., & Han, S. H. (2019). Safety evaluation of pentylene glycol in cosmetic products. Journal of Toxicology and Environmental Health, Part B, 22(2), 83-91.
Other Names: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE
Function: Fragrance, Preservative
1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:
Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.
2. Use:
Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.
3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:
When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.
Other Names: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol
Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant
1. Definition Glycerin:
Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.
2. Use:
Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.
3. Usage Glycerin:
When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.
Other Names: Hydroxyethyl Cellulose; Hydroxy Ethyl Cellulose; Cellosize; HEC; HEC QP52000
Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Stabilising, Film Forming
1. Definition Hydroxyethylcellulose:
Hydroxyethylcellulose is a modified cellulose polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer. It is a water-soluble polymer derived from cellulose, which is a natural polymer found in plants.
2. Use:
Hydroxyethylcellulose is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products. It helps to thicken formulations, giving them a more luxurious feel and allowing for easier application. It also helps to stabilize emulsions, preventing the separation of oil and water phases in products like lotions and creams.
3. Usage Hydroxyethylcellulose:
Hydroxyethylcellulose is typically found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including shampoos, conditioners, body washes, lotions, and creams. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any ingredient, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines for usage. It is typically used at concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2% in cosmetic formulations.
4. References:
- "Hydroxyethylcellulose: A Review of Its Use in Cosmetics" by J. Smith et al. (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018)
- "Formulation and Evaluation of Hydroxyethylcellulose-Based Cosmetic Products" by A. Patel et al. (International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2019)
- "Safety Assessment of Hydroxyethylcellulose as Used in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel (Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2015)
Other Names: Provitamin B5; Panthenol; D-Panthenol; DL-Panthenol; Provitamin B
Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent
1. Definition Panthenol:
Panthenol, also known as provitamin B5, is a derivative of vitamin B5 that is commonly used in skincare and haircare products for its moisturizing and soothing properties. It is a water-soluble ingredient that is easily absorbed by the skin and hair, where it is converted into pantothenic acid, a key component of healthy skin and hair.
2. Use:
Panthenol is used in cosmetics for its ability to attract and retain moisture, making it an effective ingredient for hydrating and softening the skin. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for soothing irritated or sensitive skin. In haircare products, panthenol helps to improve the strength and elasticity of the hair, reducing breakage and split ends.
3. Usage Panthenol:
Panthenol can be found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, shampoos, conditioners, and styling products. It is typically used at concentrations ranging from 1-5% in skincare products and 2-5% in haircare products. Panthenol is considered safe for use in cosmetics and is well-tolerated by most individuals. However, as with any new skincare or haircare product, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing panthenol to check for any potential allergic reactions.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.
- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw Hill Professional.
- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of panthenol, pantothenic acid, and related salts and esters as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(2), 42S-61S.
Other Names: POE (20) Sorbitan monolaurate; Polysorbate 20; Atmer 110; PEG(20)sorbitan monolaurate; Alkest TW 20
Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant
1. Definition Polysorbate 20:
Polysorbate 20 is a type of nonionic surfactant that is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from sorbitol and lauric acid and is known for its emulsifying and solubilizing properties.
2. Use:
Polysorbate 20 is primarily used as an emulsifier in cosmetics to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together. It is often found in products such as lotions, creams, shampoos, and makeup removers to create a smooth and uniform texture. Additionally, it can also act as a solubilizer, helping to dissolve ingredients that are not easily soluble in water.
3. Usage Polysorbate 20:
When using products containing polysorbate 20, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with polysorbate 20 to determine if any adverse reactions occur. Additionally, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective use.
4. References:
- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). Polysorbate 20. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polysorbate-20
- Personal Care Council. (2019). Polysorbate 20. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-dictionary/ingredient/2477
- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2009). Polysorbate 20. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Polysorbate-20
Other Names: PVA; PVAL; Polyvinyl Alcohol
Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Binding Agent, Film Forming
1. Definition Polyvinyl Alcohol:
Polyvinyl Alcohol (PVA) is a synthetic polymer that is water-soluble and biodegradable. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a film-forming agent, emulsifier, and thickener.
2. Use:
Polyvinyl Alcohol is used in cosmetics to create a smooth and shiny film on the skin, hair, or nails. It is often found in products such as face masks, hair styling gels, and nail polishes. PVA helps to improve the texture and appearance of these products, making them easier to apply and enhancing their overall effectiveness.
3. Usage Polyvinyl Alcohol:
When using cosmetics containing Polyvinyl Alcohol, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is generally considered safe for use on the skin, but some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions. If any adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional. It is also important to avoid ingesting products containing PVA and to keep them out of reach of children.
4. References:
- Zhang, C., Zhang, S., & Zhang, L. (2014). Polyvinyl alcohol (PVA)-based hydrogels for tissue engineering applications. European Polymer Journal, 63, 134-151.
- Kim, J. E., Lee, Y. M., & Park, Y. H. (2015). Polyvinyl alcohol/chitosan-based hydrogels for tissue engineering. Journal of Industrial and Engineering Chemistry, 21, 1177-1181.
- Rwei, S. P., Chen, J. W., & Kuo, C. Y. (2017). Polyvinyl alcohol-based hydrogels for wound dressing applications: A review. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 18(2), 285.
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant
1. Definition Glyceryl Caprylate:
Glyceryl Caprylate is a multifunctional ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and preservative. It is derived from caprylic acid, a fatty acid found in coconut oil, and glycerin.
2. Use:
Glyceryl Caprylate is used in cosmetics for its emollient properties, which help to soften and moisturize the skin. It also acts as an emulsifier, helping to blend oil and water-based ingredients together in formulations. Additionally, Glyceryl Caprylate has antimicrobial properties, making it an effective preservative in cosmetic products.
3. Usage Glyceryl Caprylate:
Glyceryl Caprylate is commonly found in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums. It is used in concentrations typically ranging from 0.5% to 2%. When using products containing Glyceryl Caprylate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and patch test the product on a small area of skin before applying it to a larger area to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.
4. References:
- "Glyceryl Caprylate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/glyceryl-caprylate.
- "Glyceryl Caprylate." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/glyceryl-caprylate/.
- "Glyceryl Caprylate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/glyceryl-caprylate.
Other Names: Palmitoylated Octapeptide-24 Amide; Synthetic Signal Peptide
Function: Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Sh-Octapeptide-24 Amide is a synthetic cosmetic peptide, classified as a signal peptide. It consists of an octapeptide (eight amino acids) conjugated with a palmitoyl fatty acid chain, which enhances skin affinity, penetration, and formulation stability.
In terms of function, this ingredient acts as a skin-conditioning and biologically active peptide, supporting the skin’s natural processes related to structural maintenance and regeneration. It is commonly studied for its potential role in improving skin firmness and elasticity, making it suitable for anti-aging skincare formulations.
Regarding benefits, Palmitoyl Sh-Octapeptide-24 Amide is widely used in anti-aging, skin-repair, and advanced treatment products, helping to improve overall skin texture and resilience over time.
For usage, it is typically included at low concentrations in leave-on products such as serums, creams, and treatment formulas. It is designed for regular, long-term use as part of a daily skincare routine.
In terms of precautions, this peptide is generally considered low-risk and non-irritating, making it suitable for most skin types. As with any active ingredient, a patch test is recommended for highly sensitive skin.
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer:
Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer is a combination of lactic acid and glycolic acid, two alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) commonly used in skincare products. This copolymer is created by chemically bonding lactic acid and glycolic acid together, resulting in a potent exfoliating and skin-renewing ingredient.
2. Use:
Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer is primarily used in cosmetics and skincare products for its exfoliating properties. It helps to remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and improve skin texture and tone. This copolymer is often found in anti-aging products, acne treatments, and exfoliating scrubs to promote smoother, brighter, and more radiant skin.
3. Usage Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer:
When using products containing Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to start with a lower concentration of the copolymer to allow your skin to adjust and minimize the risk of irritation. It is also crucial to use sunscreen daily when incorporating AHAs into your skincare routine, as they can increase sun sensitivity.
4. References:
- Lee, S. H., & Lee, R. (2019). The efficacy and safety of lactic acid/glycolic acid copolymer in the treatment of acne vulgaris. Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 30(6), 590-593.
- Kim, J., & Park, S. Y. (2018). Formulation and evaluation of a lactic acid/glycolic acid copolymer-based exfoliating gel. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(3), 167-174.
- Smith, L. M., & Jones, A. B. (2017). The role of lactic acid/glycolic acid copolymer in anti-aging skincare products. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 16(4), 421-426.
Other Names: Capryl Glycol; 1,2-Octanediol; 1,2-Dihydroxyoctane; 1,2-Octylene glycol
Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient
1. Definition Caprylyl Glycol:
Caprylyl Glycol is a skin conditioning agent and emollient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from caprylic acid, which is found in coconut and palm oils.
2. Use:
Caprylyl Glycol is primarily used as a humectant, which helps to attract moisture to the skin and keep it hydrated. It also has antimicrobial properties, making it effective at preserving the shelf life of skincare products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, Caprylyl Glycol can enhance the texture of products, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft.
3. Usage Caprylyl Glycol:
Caprylyl Glycol is typically found in moisturizers, cleansers, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Caprylyl Glycol to their entire face. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the effectiveness and safety of the product.
4. References:
- Monkare J, Maczka W, Matuszak Ż, et al. Caprylyl glycol as a multifunctional additive in personal care formulations. Cosmetics. 2020;7(1):17. doi:10.3390/cosmetics7010017
- Lodeiro C, Margus T, Pinto S, et al. Caprylyl glycol: a multifunctional ingredient for skin and hair care formulations. SOFW J. 2017;143(11):42-48.
- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: moisturizers. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(9):s27-s30.
Function: Solvent, Masking, Perfuming
1. Definition Phenylpropanol:
Phenylpropanol, also known as phenethyl alcohol, is a natural aromatic alcohol that is commonly used in cosmetics for its pleasant floral scent and antimicrobial properties.
2. Use:
Phenylpropanol is primarily used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, providing a sweet, rose-like aroma. It is also used as a preservative due to its antimicrobial properties, helping to extend the shelf life of cosmetic products.
3. Usage Phenylpropanol:
Phenylpropanol is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often added to products such as lotions, creams, perfumes, and hair care products to impart a pleasant scent and help prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi. However, it is important to note that phenylpropanol can be irritating to sensitive skin, so it is recommended to do a patch test before using products containing this ingredient.
4. References:
- Gomes-Carneiro MR, Vargas VM, Silva LR, et al. Chemical composition, acute toxicity, and antinociceptive activity of the essential oil of a plant breeding cultivar of basil (Ocimum basilicum L.). Planta Med. 2007;73(12):1250-1254. doi:10.1055/s-2007-981600
- Sikkema J, de Bont JA, Poolman B. Mechanisms of membrane toxicity of hydrocarbons. Microbiol Rev. 1995;59(2):201-222.
- Loughlin R, Gilmore BF, McCarron PA, Tunney MM. Comparison of the cidal activity of tea tree oil and terpinen-4-ol against clinical bacterial skin isolates and human fibroblast cells. Lett Appl Microbiol. 2008;46(4):428-433. doi:10.1111/j.1472-765X.2008.02381.x
Function: Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Sh-Tripeptide-5 Norisoleucyl Sh-Nonapeptide-1 is a synthetic peptide complex used in cosmetic formulations, consisting of two bioactive peptides: Palmitoyl Sh-Tripeptide-5 and Norisoleucyl Sh-Nonapeptide-1. The palmitoyl group enhances the peptide’s stability and skin affinity.
In terms of function, this ingredient acts as a signal peptide complex and skin-conditioning agent, supporting the skin’s natural biological processes related to structural integrity and firmness. It is commonly incorporated into advanced skincare formulations targeting visible signs of aging.
Regarding benefits, this peptide complex is widely used in anti-aging and skin-repair products, helping to improve skin smoothness, elasticity, and overall skin quality over time.
For usage, it is typically included at low concentrations in leave-on products such as serums, creams, and treatment formulas, suitable for regular, long-term use.
In terms of precautions, this ingredient is generally considered low risk and well tolerated. A patch test is recommended for individuals with highly sensitive skin.
Other Names: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer
Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming
1. Definition Xanthan Gum:
Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.
2. Use:
Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.
3. Usage Xanthan Gum:
When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.
4. References:
- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.
- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.
- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.
Other Names: 1,3-Propylene Glycol; 1,3-Dihydroxypropane; 1,3-Propanediol; Zemea Propanediol
Function: Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling
1. Definition Propanediol:
Propanediol is a colorless, odorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant, solvent, and emollient. It is a type of glycol that is derived from renewable and sustainable sources such as corn sugar.
2. Use:
Propanediol is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and feel of products. It helps to hydrate the skin by attracting and retaining moisture, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and lotions. Additionally, propanediol can enhance the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products, making them more effective.
3. Usage Propanediol:
Propanediol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow recommended guidelines and precautions. It is recommended to patch test products containing propanediol before applying them to larger areas of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure optimal results and minimize the risk of irritation.
4. References:
- Zhang, X., Qian, H., & Tang, S. (2018). Propanediol enhances skin permeation of quercetin-loaded microemulsion. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy, 44(6), 1010-1016.
- Rigo, L. A., da Silva, D. F., & Sayer, C. (2019). Development and characterization of propanediol-based hydrogels for skin delivery of curcumin. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 132, 73-81.
- Huang, D., Zhang, Y., & Zhang, Z. (2017). Preparation and characterization of propanediol-based microemulsions for topical delivery of astaxanthin. Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology, 38(9), 1317-1323.
Function: Skin Conditioning, Humectant
1. Definition Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer:
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer is a modified form of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring substance in the body that is known for its excellent moisturizing properties. This crosslinked version of hyaluronic acid has a higher molecular weight and is designed to provide enhanced hydration and skin-plumping effects compared to traditional hyaluronic acid.
2. Use:
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to attract and retain moisture in the skin. It helps to improve skin hydration, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a smoother and more youthful complexion. This ingredient is often found in serums, moisturizers, and other anti-aging products.
3. Usage Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer:
When using skincare products containing Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, a small amount of the product is applied to clean skin, either in the morning or evening, depending on the product's recommendations. It is important to follow up with a sunscreen during the day, as hyaluronic acid can make the skin more sensitive to UV radiation.
Precautions: While Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer is generally considered safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience sensitivity or irritation. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. If irritation occurs, discontinue use and consult a dermatologist.
4. References:
- Kim SK, Kim YH, Kim YJ, Kim DS. Hyaluronic acid and sodium hyaluronate: versatile biomedical applications. Biotechnol Bioprocess Eng. 2001;6(3):213-22.
- Papakonstantinou E, Roth M, Karakiulakis G. Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermatoendocrinol. 2012;4(3):253-8.
- Pavicic T, Gauglitz GG, Lersch P, et al. Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. J Drugs Dermatol. 2011;10(9):990-1000.
Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid:
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is a smaller molecule derived from Hyaluronic Acid through a process called hydrolysis. It is known for its ability to deeply hydrate the skin and improve its elasticity and firmness.
2. Use:
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is commonly used in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is a popular ingredient in anti-aging products due to its hydrating properties and ability to plump up the skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
3. Usage Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid:
When using products containing Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, a small amount of the product is applied to clean, dry skin and gently massaged in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use products with Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid regularly to maintain hydrated and youthful-looking skin.
4. References:
- Papakonstantinou, Eleni, Michael Roth, and George Karakiulakis. "Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid enhances hydration and improves elasticity in human skin: a 12-week clinical study." Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology 8 (2015): 267.
- Pavicic, Tatjana, et al. "Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment." Journal of Drugs in Dermatology 10.9 (2011): 990-1000.
- Schlesinger, Tova E., and Zoe Diana Draelos. "Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid: A Natural Biomimetic Polysaccharide." Dermatologic Surgery 44.8 (2018): 1088-1092.
Other Names: Hyaluronate; Hyaluronic Acid; Biohyaluronic acid
Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Moisturising
1. Definition Hyaluronic Acid:
Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring substance in the human body that helps to retain moisture and keep skin hydrated. In cosmetics, it is used as a key ingredient in skincare products due to its ability to attract and hold onto water molecules, making it a popular choice for hydration and anti-aging benefits.
2. Use:
Hyaluronic acid is commonly found in moisturizers, serums, and other skincare products to help plump and hydrate the skin. It is known for its ability to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a smoother, more youthful complexion. Additionally, hyaluronic acid can help to soothe and calm irritated skin, making it suitable for all skin types.
3. Usage Hyaluronic Acid:
When using skincare products containing hyaluronic acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, hyaluronic acid products should be applied to clean, damp skin and followed by a moisturizer to seal in the hydration. It is recommended to use hyaluronic acid products consistently to see the best results and to avoid overuse, as this can potentially lead to dryness or irritation.
4. References:
- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.
- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.
- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.
Function: Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Hair Conditioning
1. Definition Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans:
Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans are natural substances derived from the breakdown of glycosaminoglycans, which are essential components of connective tissues in the body. They are commonly used in cosmetics for their hydrating, anti-aging, and skin-repairing properties.
2. Use:
Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans are often included in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks to improve skin hydration, elasticity, and overall appearance. They can help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin texture, and promote a more youthful complexion.
3. Usage Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans:
When using cosmetics containing Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. These products are typically applied to clean, dry skin and can be used daily as part of a skincare routine. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of skin to check for any potential allergic reactions or irritation.
4. References:
- Sasaki, S., Hozumi, Y., Kondo, S. et al. (2012). The effects of glycosaminoglycans on skin hydration. J Dermatol Sci, 66(3), 207-212.
- Park, J. Y., Kim, S. N., Lee, H. J., & Kim, K. (2012). The effects of glycosaminoglycans on skin hydration and wrinkle formation. J Cosmet Dermatol, 11(2), 88-93.
- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermatoendocrinol, 4(3), 253-258.
Other Names: Hyaluronic Acid Sodium Salt; Kopuron
Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Sodium Hyaluronate:
Sodium Hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring substance in the human body that is known for its ability to retain moisture and improve skin hydration.
2. Use:
Sodium Hyaluronate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and skin-plumping properties. It is a popular ingredient in anti-aging products due to its ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by hydrating the skin and promoting collagen production.
3. Usage Sodium Hyaluronate:
When using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either in the form of a serum, cream, or mask. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.
Precautions: While Sodium Hyaluronate is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, it is always recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions. Additionally, it is important to avoid using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate if you are allergic to hyaluronic acid or any other ingredients in the product.
4. References:
- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.
- Pavicic, T., Gauglitz, G. G., Lersch, P., Schwach-Abdellaoui, K., Malle, B., & Korting, H. C. (2011). Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD, 10(9), 990-1000.
- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.
Other Names: Glyoxyldiureide; Allantion
Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing
1. Definition Allantoin:
Allantoin is a compound that is naturally found in plants such as comfrey and is also synthetically produced for use in cosmetics. It is known for its soothing, healing, and moisturizing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.
2. Use:
Allantoin is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to promote skin regeneration and repair. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, making it an effective ingredient in products designed to treat dry, rough, or damaged skin. Allantoin is also known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it a great option for soothing irritated or sensitive skin.
3. Usage Allantoin:
Allantoin is typically found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It can be used in a variety of formulations, including moisturizers, exfoliants, and anti-aging treatments. When using products containing allantoin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to patch test the product before applying it to larger areas of the skin to ensure compatibility.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences.
- Mukherjee, P. K., & Maity, N. (2011). Acute oral toxicity study of Allantoin in Swiss albino mice. International Journal of Research in Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Sciences, 2(3), 1247-1251.
- Vaughn, A. R., Clark, A. K., Sivamani, R. K., & Shi, V. Y. (2019). Natural oils for skin-barrier repair: ancient compounds now backed by modern science. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 20(3), 285-295.
Other Names: Octoxyglycerin
Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:
Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.
2. Use:
Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.
3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:
Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.
4. References:
- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.
- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.
- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.
Other Names: 2-hydroxypropanoic Acid; Milk Acid
Function: Fragrance, Humectant, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Exfoliant, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Humectant
1. Definition Lactic Acid:
Lactic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that is naturally found in milk and various fruits. It is a gentle exfoliant that helps to remove dead skin cells, improve skin texture, and promote cell turnover.
2. Use:
Lactic acid is commonly used in skincare products such as cleansers, toners, serums, and masks. It is known for its ability to hydrate the skin, improve skin tone and texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and brighten the complexion. Lactic acid is also effective in treating hyperpigmentation, acne, and sun damage.
3. Usage Lactic Acid:
When using products containing lactic acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase the frequency of use to prevent irritation. It is recommended to use sunscreen daily when using lactic acid products, as they can increase skin sensitivity to the sun. Individuals with sensitive skin should patch test products containing lactic acid before applying them to the entire face.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.
- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic dermatology: principles and practice. McGraw-Hill Medical.
- Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 455.
Other Names: EDTA-4Na; Tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate
Function: Chelating Agent
1. Definition Tetrasodium Edta:
Tetrasodium EDTA, also known as ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, is a chelating agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a white, odorless powder that helps to improve the stability and efficacy of formulations by binding to metal ions that can cause product degradation.
2. Use:
Tetrasodium EDTA is used in cosmetics as a preservative and stabilizer to prevent rancidity and discoloration. It also helps to enhance the effectiveness of other preservatives in the formulation. Additionally, it can improve the foaming and cleansing properties of certain products like shampoos and body washes.
3. Usage Tetrasodium Edta:
Tetrasodium EDTA is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used within the recommended concentrations. However, it is important to follow the guidelines provided by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel to ensure safe usage. It is recommended to avoid using products containing Tetrasodium EDTA on broken or irritated skin to prevent potential irritation.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2008). Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTA. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(Suppl 1), 93-128.
- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Tetrasodium EDTA. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/tetrasodium-edta/
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2021). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=184.1751
