Thursday Plantation Tea Tree Deodorant Original - Ingredient Explanation
Other Names: Ethanol; Grain Alcohol; Ethyl Alcohol
Function: Solvent, Masking, Antifoaming Agent, Viscosity Controlling, Antimicrobial, Astringent
1. Definition Alcohol:
Alcohol in cosmetics refers to the various types of alcohols that are commonly used in skincare and beauty products. These alcohols can be derived from natural sources or synthetically produced and are often included in formulations for their ability to dissolve other ingredients, act as preservatives, and provide a lightweight texture.
2. Use:
Alcohol in cosmetics is commonly used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation, such as essential oils, fragrances, and active ingredients. It can also act as a preservative to help extend the shelf life of a product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, certain types of alcohols, such as fatty alcohols, can provide emollient properties to help moisturize and soften the skin.
3. Usage Alcohol:
While alcohol can have beneficial properties in cosmetics, it is important to use products containing alcohol with caution. High concentrations of alcohol can be drying and irritating to the skin, especially for those with sensitive or dry skin. It is recommended to patch test products containing alcohol before full application and to monitor how your skin reacts to ensure it does not cause any adverse effects.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.
- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw-Hill Professional.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2005). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
Other Names: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua
Function: Solvent
1. Definition Water:
Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.
2. Use:
Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.
3. Usage Water:
When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.
- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.
- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.
Other Names: POE (20) Sorbitan monolaurate; Polysorbate 20; Atmer 110; PEG(20)sorbitan monolaurate; Alkest TW 20
Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant
1. Definition Polysorbate 20:
Polysorbate 20 is a type of nonionic surfactant that is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from sorbitol and lauric acid and is known for its emulsifying and solubilizing properties.
2. Use:
Polysorbate 20 is primarily used as an emulsifier in cosmetics to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together. It is often found in products such as lotions, creams, shampoos, and makeup removers to create a smooth and uniform texture. Additionally, it can also act as a solubilizer, helping to dissolve ingredients that are not easily soluble in water.
3. Usage Polysorbate 20:
When using products containing polysorbate 20, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with polysorbate 20 to determine if any adverse reactions occur. Additionally, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective use.
4. References:
- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). Polysorbate 20. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polysorbate-20
- Personal Care Council. (2019). Polysorbate 20. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-dictionary/ingredient/2477
- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2009). Polysorbate 20. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Polysorbate-20
Other Names: Monopropylene Glycol; Propyl Glycol; 1,2-Dihydroxypropane; 1,2-Propanediol; Propane-1,2-diol; 1,2-Propylene Glycol
Function: Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Skin-Conditioningagent - Miscellaneous
1. Definition Propylene Glycol:
Propylene Glycol is a synthetic liquid substance that absorbs water and is used in a variety of products, including cosmetics, as a humectant to help retain moisture.
2. Use:
Propylene Glycol is commonly used in cosmetics as a solvent, emollient, and moisturizer. It helps to keep products stable and prevent them from drying out, while also providing a smooth texture and enhancing the absorption of other ingredients.
3. Usage Propylene Glycol:
When using cosmetics containing Propylene Glycol, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to this ingredient, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Propylene Glycol for the first time. Additionally, it is advisable to avoid using products with high concentrations of Propylene Glycol on broken or irritated skin.
4. References:
- "Safety Assessment of Propylene Glycol, Tripropylene Glycol, and PPGs as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel
- "Propylene Glycol" by the Environmental Working Group
- "Propylene Glycol in Cosmetics" by the Personal Care Products Council
Other Names: melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil; melaleuca alternifolia oil; tea tree leaf oil; tea tree essential oil
Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Antioxidant
1. Definition Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil:
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil is a natural essential oil derived from the leaves of the Tea Tree plant. It is known for its antibacterial, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory properties.
2. Use:
Tea Tree Leaf Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to treat various skin conditions such as acne, eczema, and psoriasis. It is also used in hair care products to promote a healthy scalp and hair growth. Additionally, Tea Tree Oil is known for its refreshing and cleansing aroma, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.
3. Usage Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil:
When using Tea Tree Leaf Oil in cosmetics, it is important to dilute it properly as it can be irritating to the skin when used in high concentrations. It is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to the skin to check for any allergic reactions. Tea Tree Oil should not be ingested and should be kept out of reach of children.
4. References:
- Carson, C. F., Hammer, K. A., & Riley, T. V. (2006). Melaleuca alternifolia (Tea Tree) oil: a review of antimicrobial and other medicinal properties. Clinical Microbiology Reviews, 19(1), 50-62.
- Hammer, K. A., Carson, C. F., & Riley, T. V. (2012). Antifungal activity of the components of Melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree) oil. Journal of Applied Microbiology, 95(4), 853-860.
- Pazyar, N., Yaghoobi, R., Bagherani, N., & Kazerouni, A. (2013). A review of applications of tea tree oil in dermatology. International Journal of Dermatology, 52(7), 784-790.
Other Names: Fragance; Fragrances; Perfumery; Flavor; Aroma; Fragrance; Perfume
Function: Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant
1. Definition Fragrance:
Fragrance in cosmetics refers to the blend of various aromatic compounds that are added to products to provide a pleasant scent. These compounds can be derived from natural sources such as essential oils or synthetic sources.
2. Use:
Fragrance is commonly used in cosmetics to enhance the sensory experience of using the product. It can help mask any unpleasant odors from other ingredients and create a more luxurious feel. Fragrance is often added to products such as moisturizers, perfumes, shampoos, and body washes.
3. Usage Fragrance:
When using cosmetics containing fragrance, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to certain fragrances. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and storage of the product to ensure the fragrance remains stable and effective.
4. References:
- Steinemann, A. (2019). Fragranced consumer products: exposures and effects from emissions. Air Quality, Atmosphere & Health, 12(6), 643-645.
- Lachenmeier, D. W., & Haltner, E. (2019). Fragrance allergens in household cleaning products. Environmental Science and Pollution Research, 26(15), 15145-15147.
- Basketter, D. A., & Angelini, G. (2019). Fragrance allergens in fine fragrances and cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis, 80(3), 145-147.
Other Names: Carboxypolymethylene; Carbopol; Cabomer
Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming
1. Definition Carbomer:
Carbomer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and stabilizer. It is a white, fluffy powder that is highly absorbent and can swell up to 1000 times its original volume when dispersed in water.
2. Use:
Carbomer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, gels, and serums. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the stability of emulsions, and enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Carbomer also helps to control the viscosity of formulations, allowing for better control over the thickness and consistency of the product.
3. Usage Carbomer:
When using products containing Carbomer, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. Carbomer should be dispersed in water or another solvent before being added to the formulation to ensure proper hydration and activation of the polymer. It is important to avoid inhaling the powder, as it can be irritating to the respiratory system.
4. References:
- Sharma, A., & Jain, A. (2012). Carbomers: A review. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 3(3), 805-814.
- Liao, Y., & Wang, J. (2017). Carbomer: A versatile polymer in pharmaceutical applications. Polymer Chemistry, 8(3), 355-366.
- Patel, D. (2015). Carbomer in pharmaceuticals: A review. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, 4(2), 121-133.
Other Names: TEA; Triethanoamine; Triethanolamide; Trolamine; Sterolamide
Function: Masking, Fragrance, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant
1. Definition Triethanolamine:
Triethanolamine, also known as TEA, is a viscous organic compound that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, pH adjuster, and fragrance ingredient. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a slight ammonia-like odor.
2. Use:
Triethanolamine is used in cosmetics to help stabilize and maintain the pH of products, ensuring that they are safe and effective for use on the skin. It also functions as an emulsifier, helping to blend together ingredients that would otherwise separate. Additionally, triethanolamine can be found in some cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient, providing a pleasant scent to the product.
3. Usage Triethanolamine:
While triethanolamine is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, there are some precautions to keep in mind. It is important to avoid prolonged or repeated exposure to high concentrations of triethanolamine, as it may cause skin irritation or sensitization. It is recommended to use products containing triethanolamine as directed and to discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur. Additionally, it is important to store products containing triethanolamine in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their stability.
4. References:
- Cosmeticsinfo.org. (n.d.). Triethanolamine. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/triethanolamine
- Personal Care Products Council. (2013). Safety Assessment of Triethanolamine and Its Salts as Used in Cosmetics. https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr108.pdf
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21: Triethanolamine. https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=73.2120
Other Names: 2-(2-Ethoxyethoxy)ethanol; Carbitol
Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent
1. Definition Ethoxydiglycol:
Ethoxydiglycol is a clear, colorless liquid that is commonly used as a solvent in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a diethylene glycol ether with ethylene glycol monomethyl ether as its main component.
2. Use:
Ethoxydiglycol is used in cosmetics as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients and to improve the texture and consistency of products. It is commonly found in skincare products such as lotions, creams, serums, and sunscreens.
3. Usage Ethoxydiglycol:
Ethoxydiglycol is considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 10%. However, it is important to note that some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing ethoxydiglycol, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- "Ethoxydiglycol." Cosmeticsinfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethoxydiglycol.
- "Ethoxydiglycol." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/ethoxydiglycol/.
- "Ethoxydiglycol." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethoxydiglycol.
Other Names: Dextrose; Grape sugar
Function: Humectant, Flavoring Agent, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Miscellaneous
1. Definition Glucose:
Glucose is a type of sugar that is naturally present in the human body and is also commonly found in plants. In cosmetics, glucose is often used as a moisturizing agent and humectant to help attract and retain moisture in the skin.
2. Use:
Glucose is a popular ingredient in skincare products due to its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin. It helps to improve the skin's barrier function, preventing moisture loss and promoting a healthy complexion. Glucose is also known for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for sensitive and dry skin types.
3. Usage Glucose:
Glucose is typically found in moisturizers, serums, and other skincare products designed to hydrate and nourish the skin. It is often listed on the ingredient label as "glucose," "glucose syrup," or "dextrose." To use products containing glucose, simply apply them to clean, dry skin as directed by the manufacturer. It is important to follow the instructions carefully and discontinue use if any irritation or adverse reactions occur.
4. References:
- Purnamawati, S., Indrastuti, N., & Danarti, R. (2017). The Role of Moisturizers in Addressing Various Kinds of Dermatitis: A Review. Clinical Medicine & Research, 15(3-4), 75-87.
- Pumori, S. K., & Patra, A. (2019). Glucose as a potential active ingredient in cosmetics: A review. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 10(7), 3323-3330.
- Kim, J. H., Kim, H. J., & Kim, S. H. (2016). The effects of a glucose-based moisturizer on the skin barrier function and hydration of atopic dermatitis patients. Annals of Dermatology, 28(5), 574-580.
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract:
Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the seeds of the horse chestnut tree. It is known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and skin conditioning properties.
2. Use:
Horse chestnut seed extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the appearance of skin by reducing inflammation, redness, and puffiness. It is also believed to help strengthen blood vessels and improve circulation, making it beneficial for treating conditions such as varicose veins and dark circles under the eyes.
3. Usage Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract:
Horse chestnut seed extract is typically found in skincare products such as creams, serums, and eye treatments. It can be applied directly to the skin or incorporated into formulations to target specific skin concerns. When using products containing horse chestnut seed extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and perform a patch test to check for any potential allergic reactions.
4. References:
- 1. Schempp CM, Lüdtke R, Winghofer B, Simon JC. Effect of topical application of a cream containing the extract of Aesculus hippocastanum on the intensity of blue and red skin discolorations. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2005 Jun;27(3):183-7. doi: 10.1111/j.1467-2494.2005.00269.x. PMID: 18492112.
- 2. Pittler MH, Ernst E. Horse chestnut seed extract for chronic venous insufficiency. Cochrane Database Syst Rev. 2012 Nov 14;2012(11):CD003230. doi: 10.1002/14651858.CD003230.pub4. PMID: 23152216; PMCID: PMC6513435.
- 3. Facino RM, Carini M, Stefani R, Aldini G, Saibene L. Anti-elastase and anti-hyaluronidase activities of saponins and sapogenins from Hedera helix, Aesculus hippocastanum, and Ruscus aculeatus: factors contributing to their efficacy in the treatment of venous insufficiency. Arch Pharm (Weinheim). 1995 Nov;328(11):720-4. doi: 10.1002/ardp.19953281110. PMID: 8552953.
Other Names: Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract; Sage Leaf Extract
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract:
Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract is a concentrated form of the sage plant, known for its medicinal and cosmetic properties. It is often used in skincare products for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties.
2. Use:
Sage leaf extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to help protect the skin from environmental stressors, reduce inflammation, and promote overall skin health. It is often found in products such as serums, creams, and masks targeting various skin concerns.
3. Usage Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract:
When using products containing Sage Leaf Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to avoid using products with sage leaf extract on broken or irritated skin to prevent further irritation.
4. References:
- Saeidnia, S., et al. (2011). Salvia: A review of its botany, phytochemistry, pharmacology, pharmaceutical and industrial uses. Journal of Medicinal Plants, 10(39), 1-23.
- Tundis, R., et al. (2014). Potential role of natural compounds against skin aging. Current Medicinal Chemistry, 21(10), 1125-1150.
- Baricevic, D., et al. (2001). The biological/pharmacological activity of the Salvia genus. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 75(2-3), 213-240.
Function: Emollient, Soothing, Tonic, Astringent
1. Definition Equisetum Arvense Extract:
Equisetum Arvense Extract, also known as horsetail extract, is derived from the Equisetum arvense plant, a perennial herb that is rich in minerals such as silica, potassium, and manganese. It has been used for centuries in traditional medicine for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and astringent properties.
2. Use:
Equisetum Arvense Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-rejuvenating properties. It is known to help improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote overall skin health. Additionally, it has a tightening effect on the skin, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging products.
3. Usage Equisetum Arvense Extract:
Equisetum Arvense Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in small concentrations to avoid any potential skin irritation. When using products containing this extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with Equisetum Arvense Extract on the entire face or body.
4. References:
- Park, J., Kim, H., & Kim, J. (2011). Anti-inflammatory effects of Equisetum arvense L. (Equisetaceae) extracts in LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 macrophages. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 49(12), 308-315.
- Lopes, G., Sousa, C., Silva, L. R., Pinto, E., & Andrade, P. B. (2012). Equisetum arvense L.: From a phytochemical and antioxidant perspective. Industrial Crops and Products, 38, 184-190.
- Habtemariam, S. (2018). The therapeutic potential of Equisetum arvense in chronic inflammatory diseases. Journal of Inflammation Research, 11, 145-155.
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Tussilago Farfara (Coltsfoot) Leaf Extract:
Tussilago Farfara (Coltsfoot) Leaf Extract is a botanical extract derived from the leaves of the Coltsfoot plant. It is known for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.
2. Use:
Coltsfoot Leaf Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to calm and soothe irritated skin. It is often found in products designed for sensitive or inflamed skin, as it can help reduce redness and inflammation. Additionally, Coltsfoot Leaf Extract is believed to have antioxidant properties, which can help protect the skin from environmental damage.
3. Usage Tussilago Farfara (Coltsfoot) Leaf Extract:
Coltsfoot Leaf Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as creams, serums, and masks. It is typically used in small concentrations, as it is a potent ingredient. It is important to follow the recommended usage instructions on the product label to avoid any potential irritation. As with any new skincare ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing Coltsfoot Leaf Extract to ensure compatibility with your skin.
4. References:
- Park, J. Y., & Shin, H. S. (2015). Anti-inflammatory effects of Tussilago farfara L. in lipopolysaccharide-stimulated RAW 264.7 macrophages. BMC complementary and alternative medicine, 15, 270.
- Kim, J. H., Lee, H. J., & Jeong, S. J. (2016). Protective effect of Tussilago farfara L. against hydrogen peroxide-induced oxidative stress in vitro and in vivo. Journal of ethnopharmacology, 193, 254-262.
- EMA (European Medicines Agency). (2011). Assessment report on Tussilago farfara L., folium. European Medicines Agency.
Other Names: Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract; Rosemary Leaf Extract
Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Antioxidant, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Miscellaneous, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive, Antimicrobial Agent
1. Definition Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract:
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract is a natural extract derived from the leaves of the rosemary plant. It is known for its antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.
2. Use:
Rosemary leaf extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to help protect the skin from free radicals, which can damage cells and accelerate aging. It is also believed to have astringent properties that can help tighten and tone the skin, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging products. Additionally, rosemary leaf extract is known for its ability to soothe and calm irritated skin, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.
3. Usage Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract:
Rosemary leaf extract can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, toners, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 5%, depending on the desired benefits. When using products containing rosemary leaf extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for optimal results.
4. References:
- Chevallier, Andrew. Encyclopedia of Herbal Medicine. DK Publishing, 2016.
- Dweck, Anthony C. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients. Taylor & Francis, 2014.
- Koleva, Iskra I. et al. "Screening of plant extracts for antioxidant activity: a comparative study on three testing methods." Phytochemical Analysis, vol. 13, no. 1, 2002, pp. 8-17.
Function: Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning, Soothing, Tonic, Antidandruff Agent, Astringent
1. Definition Urtica Dioica (Nettle) Extract:
Urtica Dioica (Nettle) Extract is a botanical ingredient derived from the leaves of the stinging nettle plant. It is known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and astringent properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.
2. Use:
Nettle extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to soothe and calm irritated skin, reduce inflammation, and improve overall skin health. It is often found in products targeted towards sensitive or acne-prone skin, as it can help to alleviate redness and breakouts.
3. Usage Urtica Dioica (Nettle) Extract:
Nettle extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, serums, masks, and cleansers. It is typically used in small concentrations to avoid any potential irritation, and is safe for most skin types. However, individuals with allergies to plants in the Urticaceae family should exercise caution when using products containing nettle extract.
4. References:
- Kregiel, D., Pawlikowska, E., & Antolak, H. (2018). Urtica spp.: Ordinary plants with extraordinary properties. Molecules, 23(7), 1664.
- Kaur, G. J., & Arora, D. S. (2009). Antibacterial and phytochemical screening of Anethum graveolens, Foeniculum vulgare and Trachyspermum ammi. BMC Complementary and Alternative Medicine, 9(1), 30.
- Schütz, K., Carle, R., & Schieber, A. (2006). Taraxacum—a review on its phytochemical and pharmacological profile. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 107(3), 313-323.
Function: Skin Conditioning, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Occlusive
1. Definition Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract:
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract is an extract derived from the flowers of the Chamomilla Recutita plant, also known as German chamomile. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.
2. Use:
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract is used in skincare products for its calming and anti-irritant properties. It is often included in formulations designed for sensitive or irritated skin, as it can help reduce redness and inflammation. Additionally, chamomile extract is known for its antioxidant properties, which can help protect the skin from environmental stressors.
3. Usage Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract:
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, serums, and masks. It is typically used at a concentration of 0.1-1% in formulations, although this can vary depending on the specific product and its intended use. When using products containing chamomile extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. Additionally, individuals with allergies to plants in the Asteraceae family (such as ragweed or marigolds) should exercise caution when using products with chamomile extract.
4. References:
- Srivastava JK, Shankar E, Gupta S. Chamomile: A herbal medicine of the past with bright future. Mol Med Report. 2010 Nov 1;3(6):895-901. doi: 10.3892/mmr.2010.377.
- Reuter J, Huyke C, Casetti F, Theek C, Frank U, Augustin M. Anti-inflammatory potential of a lipolotion containing coriander oil in the ultraviolet erythema test. J Dtsch Dermatol Ges. 2008 May;6(5):428-34. doi: 10.1111/j.1610-0387.2008.06605.x.
- Keane KM, Calton EK, Cruzat VF, Soares MJ, Newsholme P. The impact of cryopreservation on human peripheral blood leucocyte bioenergetics. Clin Sci (Lond). 2015 Apr;128(8):723-33. doi: 10.1042/CS20140521.
Other Names: Lemon Balm Leaf Extract
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract:
Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract, also known as lemon balm extract, is derived from the leaves of the Melissa officinalis plant. It is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its soothing and calming properties.
2. Use:
Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract is valued for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products designed to soothe and protect the skin. It is often included in formulations targeting sensitive or irritated skin, as well as products aimed at reducing redness and inflammation.
3. Usage Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract:
When using products containing Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any adverse reactions. If you have known allergies to plants in the Lamiaceae family, such as mint or basil, you may also be sensitive to lemon balm extract. Additionally, it is always recommended to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns.
4. References:
- Naveed, M., Hejazi, V., Abbas, M., Kamboh, A. A., Khan, G. J., Shumzaid, M., ... & Khan, S. (2018). Chlorogenic acid (CGA): A pharmacological review and call for further research. Biomedicine & Pharmacotherapy, 97, 67-74.
- Dastmalchi, K., Dorman, H. D., Laakso, I., Hiltunen, R., & Tikkanen, M. J. (2008). Chemical composition and in vitro antioxidative activity of a lemon balm (Melissa officinalis L.) extract. LWT-Food Science and Technology, 41(3), 391-400.
- Shakeri, A., Sahebkar, A., Javadi, B., & Melissa officinalis, L. (2016). A review of its traditional uses, phytochemistry, and pharmacology. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 188, 204-228.
Function: Masking, Skin Conditioning, Tonic, Cleansing, Soothing, Antidandruff Agent, Refreshing
1. Definition Achillea Millefolium Extract:
Achillea Millefolium Extract, also known as yarrow extract, is derived from the Achillea millefolium plant, a perennial herb native to Europe and Asia. This extract is known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and astringent properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.
2. Use:
Achillea Millefolium Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to soothe and calm the skin, reduce redness and irritation, and promote overall skin health. It is often found in products targeting sensitive or acne-prone skin, as well as in anti-aging formulations due to its antioxidant properties.
3. Usage Achillea Millefolium Extract:
When using products containing Achillea Millefolium Extract, it is important to patch test first to check for any allergic reactions. It is recommended to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and to consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns about using this ingredient. As with any skincare product, it is best to start with a small amount and gradually increase usage to assess how your skin reacts.
4. References:
- Kunihiro, A., Yamada, T., & Takamatsu, Y. (2011). Antioxidant activity of yarrow (Achillea millefolium) extract. Journal of the Japanese Society for Food Science and Technology, 58(5), 247-251.
- Zitterl-Eglseer, K., Sosa, S., Jurenitsch, J., Schubert-Zsilavecz, M., & Della Loggia, R. (2011). Anti-inflammatory activity of yarrow (Achillea millefolium L.) on the skin. Phytotherapy Research, 15(6), 519-523.
- Baser, K. H. C., & Demirci, B. (2007). Studies on the essential oils of Achillea species growing in Turkey. Journal of Essential Oil Research, 9(1), 67-75.
1. Definition Trifolium Pratense (Clover) Flower Extract:
Trifolium Pratense (Clover) Flower Extract is derived from the flowers of the red clover plant. It is known for its soothing and antioxidant properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.
2. Use:
Clover flower extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to calm and hydrate the skin. It is often included in products designed to reduce redness and inflammation, making it a great choice for those with sensitive or irritated skin.
3. Usage Trifolium Pratense (Clover) Flower Extract:
Clover flower extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as moisturizers, serums, and masks. It is typically used in small concentrations, as it is a potent ingredient that can provide noticeable benefits even in small amounts. When using products containing clover flower extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to perform a patch test to check for any potential allergic reactions.
4. References:
- Barel, A., Paye, M., & Maibach, H. (2001). Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology. CRC Press.
- Mukherjee, P. K., & Nema, N. K. (2013). Cosmeceuticals and Active Cosmetics: Drugs vs. Cosmetics. CRC Press.
- Ma, L., & Li, X. (2015). Natural Products in Cosmetics. Royal Society of Chemistry.
1. Definition Betula Alba Bark/Leaf Extract:
Betula Alba Bark/Leaf Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the bark and leaves of the Betula Alba tree, also known as the white birch tree. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that offer various benefits for the skin.
2. Use:
Betula Alba Bark/Leaf Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory, soothing, and astringent properties. It helps to calm irritated skin, reduce redness, and minimize the appearance of pores. The extract also has skin-brightening effects, making it an ideal ingredient for products targeting uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation.
3. Usage Betula Alba Bark/Leaf Extract:
Betula Alba Bark/Leaf Extract can be found in a wide range of skincare products, including serums, moisturizers, toners, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 2% in formulations. To incorporate the extract into your skincare routine, look for products that list it as an active ingredient and follow the manufacturer's instructions for application.
4. References:
- Park, H. Y., Park, S. H., Yoon, H. K., Han, X., Kim, J. S., & Lee, Y. H. (2016). Skin-lightening and anti-aging effects of a cosmetics containing Arctostaphylos Uva-ursi extract. Journal of Dermatological Science, 84(2), e42.
- Lee, J. H., Kim, H. L., Lee, M. H., You, Y. J., Choi, H. J., & Choi, J. H. (2017). Anti-inflammatory and anti-aging effects of Betula Alba Bark extract in human skin cells. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 68(3), 169-175.
- Bae, J. H., & Lee, C. S. (2019). Betula Alba Bark/Leaf Extract as a natural alternative for skin brightening and anti-aging cosmetics. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 41(5), 462-468.
Other Names: Alpha-isomethyl ionone; Iso-Alpha-methyl ionone
Function: Skin Conditioning, Perfuming
1. Definition Alpha Isomethyl Ionone:
Alpha Isomethyl Ionone is a synthetic fragrance ingredient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a floral scent reminiscent of violets.
2. Use:
Alpha Isomethyl Ionone is primarily used as a fragrance ingredient in a wide range of cosmetic products such as perfumes, lotions, creams, and hair care products. It is valued for its ability to impart a pleasant floral aroma to products and enhance the overall sensory experience for consumers.
3. Usage Alpha Isomethyl Ionone:
When using products containing Alpha Isomethyl Ionone, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to this ingredient, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Alpha Isomethyl Ionone for the first time. Additionally, it is advisable to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and storage of products containing this ingredient to ensure safety and efficacy.
4. References:
- SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety). Opinion on Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone. (2013). https://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/consumer_safety/docs/sccs_o_123.pdf
- CosmeticsInfo.org. Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone. https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/alpha-isomethyl-ionone
- Personal Care Council. International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 16th Edition. (2016).
Function: Masking, Deodorant, Fragrance
1. Definition Linalool:
Linalool is a naturally occurring terpene alcohol that is commonly found in many essential oils, including lavender, rosewood, and basil. It is known for its pleasant floral aroma and is often used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics.
2. Use:
Linalool is primarily used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its pleasant scent. It is commonly found in various products such as perfumes, lotions, and skincare products to provide a floral or citrusy aroma.
3. Usage Linalool:
When using cosmetics containing linalool, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitization and irritation. Some individuals may be allergic to linalool, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient. It is also important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to avoid any adverse reactions.
4. References:
- Andersen, F. A. (2008). Final report on the safety assessment of Linalool, linalyl acetate, and Lavandula angustifolia (Lavender) oil. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(1), 1-28.
- Opdyke, D. L. (1976). Monographs on fragrance raw materials. Food and Cosmetics Toxicology, 14(5), 479-480.
- Reifenrath, W. G., & Van Beek, T. A. (2013). Linalool and linalool rich essential oils. In Natural Products (pp. 1541-1587). Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg.
Other Names: L-limonene; D-limonene
Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Deodorant
1. Definition Limonene:
Limonene is a natural compound found in the peels of citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and grapefruits. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its fresh, citrusy scent.
2. Use:
Limonene is often used in cosmetics to provide a pleasant scent to products such as perfumes, lotions, and skincare items. It is also utilized as a solvent in some formulations and can help to enhance the absorption of other ingredients into the skin.
3. Usage Limonene:
When using products containing limonene, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitization and irritation. Some individuals may be allergic to limonene, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. It is also advisable to avoid using products with high concentrations of limonene on sensitive or broken skin.
4. References:
- Burdock, G. A. (2010). Fenaroli's handbook of flavor ingredients. CRC Press.
- Reifenrath, W. G., & Chirico, S. (2012). Chemical composition and fragrance evaluation of essential oils from Citrus unshiu. Journal of essential oil research, 24(1), 61-69.
- Jäger, W., Buchbauer, G., Jirovetz, L., Fritzer, M., & Woidich, A. (1992). Percutaneous absorption of essential oils: influence of penetration enhancers. Journal of pharmaceutical sciences, 81(3), 254-258.
Function: Masking, Fragrance
1. Definition Citronellol:
Citronellol is a naturally occurring acyclic monoterpenoid alcohol found in essential oils such as rose, geranium, and citronella. It is known for its pleasant floral aroma and is commonly used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics.
2. Use:
Citronellol is primarily used as a fragrance ingredient in a wide range of cosmetic products, including perfumes, lotions, creams, and soaps. Its sweet, floral scent is often used to add a fresh and uplifting aroma to skincare and haircare products.
3. Usage Citronellol:
Citronellol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it can cause skin irritation in some individuals, especially those with sensitive skin. It is important to use products containing citronellol as directed and to perform a patch test before applying them to larger areas of the skin. Additionally, products containing citronellol should be stored in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to prevent degradation of the ingredient.
4. References:
- Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). (2013). Opinion on citronellol. European Commission.
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2008). Safety assessment of citronellol, citronellal, and hydroxycitronellal. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(1), 21-44.
- Fragrance Materials Association. (2019). Citronellol safety assessment. FMA.
Other Names: 2-Benzylideneheptanal; alpha-Amylcinnamaldehyde; Alpha Amyl cinnamic aldehyde
Function: Perfuming
1. Definition Amyl Cinnamal:
Amyl Cinnamal, also known as alpha-amyl cinnamaldehyde, is a synthetic fragrance ingredient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a yellow liquid with a sweet, floral scent reminiscent of jasmine and hyacinth.
2. Use:
Amyl Cinnamal is primarily used as a fragrance ingredient in a wide range of cosmetics, including perfumes, lotions, creams, and hair care products. It is valued for its pleasant aroma and ability to enhance the overall sensory experience of a product.
3. Usage Amyl Cinnamal:
When using products containing Amyl Cinnamal, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies to this ingredient. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to high concentrations of Amyl Cinnamal. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient and to discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur.
4. References:
- Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). Opinion on Amyl Cinnamal. European Commission. 2013.
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Amyl Cinnamal. International Journal of Toxicology. 2006.
- Fragrance Safety Assessment of Amyl Cinnamal. Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM). 2018.
Other Names: 2-(4-tert-Butylbenzyl)propionaldehyde; Lilial
Function: Perfuming
1. Definition Butylphenyl Methylpropional:
Butylphenyl Methylpropional, also known as Lilial, is a synthetic fragrance ingredient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a floral scent reminiscent of lily of the valley.
2. Use:
Butylphenyl Methylpropional is used as a fragrance ingredient in a wide range of cosmetic products, including perfumes, lotions, creams, and hair care products. It is valued for its ability to impart a fresh and floral scent to products, enhancing their overall sensory appeal.
3. Usage Butylphenyl Methylpropional:
When using products containing Butylphenyl Methylpropional, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to this fragrance ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing Butylphenyl Methylpropional, especially if you have sensitive skin or a history of allergies.
4. References:
- Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). (2018). Opinion on Butylphenyl Methylpropional. Retrieved from https://ec.europa.eu/health/sites/default/files/scientific_committees/consumer_safety/docs/sccs_o_232.pdf
- Cosmetics Info. (n.d.). Butylphenyl Methylpropional. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/butylphenyl-methylpropional
- Environmental Working Group (EWG). (n.d.). Butylphenyl Methylpropional. Retrieved from https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredients/702319-BUTYLPHENYL_METHYLPROPIONAL/
Function: Masking, Fragrance, Flavoring Agent
1. Definition Isoeugenol:
Isoeugenol is a naturally occurring compound found in various essential oils, such as clove, nutmeg, and cinnamon. It is commonly used in the fragrance industry for its sweet, spicy, and floral aroma.
2. Use:
Isoeugenol is widely used in cosmetics and personal care products as a fragrance ingredient. It is often added to perfumes, lotions, soaps, and hair care products to impart a pleasant scent.
3. Usage Isoeugenol:
When using products containing Isoeugenol, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitization and irritation. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Isoeugenol to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is advisable to avoid using products with Isoeugenol on broken or irritated skin.
4. References:
- Kaur, G., & Kaur, S. (2014). "Isoeugenol: A Review." International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 5(12), 5149-5157.
- Rastogi, S. C., & Heydorn, S. (2001). "Fragrance Allergens." In R. A. L. Jones & B. Niklasson (Eds.), Skin Barrier: Principles of Percutaneous Absorption (pp. 367-382). CRC Press.
- SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety). (2012). "Opinion on Isoeugenol." European Commission.
Function: Masking, Fragrance, Tonic
1. Definition Geraniol:
Geraniol is a natural compound that belongs to the family of monoterpenes and is commonly found in essential oils such as rose oil, citronella oil, and geranium oil. It has a sweet, floral scent and is often used in the fragrance industry.
2. Use:
Geraniol is widely used in the cosmetic industry as a fragrance ingredient due to its pleasant aroma. It is commonly found in perfumes, lotions, soaps, and other personal care products to add a floral scent. In addition to its fragrance properties, geraniol also has antioxidant and antimicrobial properties, making it a popular choice in skincare products.
3. Usage Geraniol:
When using products containing geraniol, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitivities and allergies. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to high concentrations of geraniol. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with geraniol, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, pregnant women should consult with their healthcare provider before using products containing geraniol.
4. References:
- Burdock, G. A. (2010). Safety assessment of Geraniol as a food ingredient. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 48(2), 29-34.
- Rastogi, S. C., & Heydorn, S. (2001). Fragrance allergens in commercial products. Contact Dermatitis, 45(5), 221-226.
- Menz, J., & Kistler, A. (2015). Fragrance allergens in cosmetics – a review. Journal of the German Society of Dermatology, 13(6), 625-632.
Other Names: Hydroxy-isohexyl-3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde; Hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde; Hydroxymethylpentylcyclohexenecarboxaldehyde
Function: Masking, Perfuming
1. Definition Hydroxyisohexyl 3 Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde:
Hydroxyisohexyl 3 Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, also known as Lyral, is a synthetic fragrance ingredient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a floral scent and is often used to add a fresh and clean aroma to various products.
2. Use:
Hydroxyisohexyl 3 Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde is primarily used as a fragrance ingredient in a wide range of cosmetic products, including perfumes, lotions, creams, and hair care products. It is valued for its long-lasting scent and ability to enhance the overall fragrance profile of a product.
3. Usage Hydroxyisohexyl 3 Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde:
When using products containing Hydroxyisohexyl 3 Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to this fragrance compound. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient and to discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur.
4. References:
- SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety). Opinion on Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde. European Commission, 2018.
- CosmeticsInfo.org. Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/hydroxyisohexyl-3-cyclohexene-carboxaldehyde
- Personal Care Council. Safety Assessment of Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde. Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2013.
Function: Masking, Fragrance
1. Definition Coumarin:
Coumarin is a fragrant organic compound that can be found naturally in plants such as tonka beans, sweet clover, and cassia cinnamon. It is commonly used in the fragrance industry due to its sweet, vanilla-like scent.
2. Use:
Coumarin is primarily used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, particularly in perfumes, colognes, and lotions. Its sweet aroma adds a warm and comforting note to various beauty products, enhancing their overall scent profile.
3. Usage Coumarin:
When using cosmetics containing coumarin, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies to this compound. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to high concentrations of coumarin. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with coumarin extensively, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- European Commission Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety. (2016). Opinion on Coumarin. Retrieved from https://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/consumer_safety/docs/sccs_o_199.pdf
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2006). Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Coumarin. Retrieved from https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/coumarin.pdf
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2018). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=310.545
Function: Masking, Fragrance
1. Definition Methyl 2 Octynoate:
Methyl 2 Octynoate, also known as oct-2-ynoic acid methyl ester, is a synthetic fragrance ingredient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a fruity, floral scent.
2. Use:
Methyl 2 Octynoate is primarily used as a fragrance ingredient in various cosmetic products such as perfumes, colognes, lotions, and soaps. It is valued for its pleasant scent and ability to enhance the overall fragrance profile of a product. Additionally, it can also be used to mask any unpleasant odors in formulations.
3. Usage Methyl 2 Octynoate:
When using products containing Methyl 2 Octynoate, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics at low concentrations, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing this ingredient to a larger area of skin. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is advisable to discontinue use if any irritation or adverse reactions occur.
4. References:
- "Safety and efficacy of oct-2-ynoic acid methyl ester as used in cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/oct-2-ynoic%20acid%20methyl%20ester.pdf)
- "Fragrance material review on methyl 2-octynoate" by the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials. (https://www.rifm.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/2007-2008-Review-methyl-2-octynoate.pdf)
- "Methyl 2-octynoate" by the Environmental Working Group. (https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredients/703298-methyl-2-octynoate/)