Wilma Schumann Moisture Intensiv™ Restorative Crème - Ingredient Explanation
Other Names: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua
Function: Solvent
1. Definition Water:
Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.
2. Use:
Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.
3. Usage Water:
When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.
- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.
- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.
Other Names: C12-C15 alkyl benzoate; Alkyl (C12-C15) benzoate; Dodecyl benzoate
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antimicrobial
1. Definition C12 15 Alkyl Benzoate:
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is an ester derived from benzoic acid and a mixture of alcohols with carbon chain lengths ranging from 12 to 15. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, skin conditioning agent, and solvent.
2. Use:
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is utilized in various cosmetic formulations such as sunscreens, moisturizers, and makeup products. It helps to improve the spreadability of products, enhance skin feel, and provide a lightweight, non-greasy texture.
3. Usage C12 15 Alkyl Benzoate:
When using products containing C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines and apply as directed on the product packaging. It is generally considered safe for topical application, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before widespread use to ensure compatibility.
Precautions: While C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. If any adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional. It is recommended to avoid contact with eyes and mucous membranes.
4. References:
- "C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate" in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 14th Edition.
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2003). Final report on the safety assessment of C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate.
- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). CIR Expert Panel Reaffirms Safety of C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate in Cosmetics.
1. Definition Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Seed Extract:
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Seed Extract is a natural plant extract derived from the seeds of the Shea tree. It is known for its rich moisturizing properties and is commonly used in skincare products for its nourishing and hydrating benefits.
2. Use:
Shea Butter Seed Extract is often used in cosmetics and skincare products for its emollient and skin conditioning properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, lotions, and body creams. Additionally, Shea Butter Seed Extract is known for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, making it beneficial for soothing irritated skin and protecting against environmental damage.
3. Usage Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Seed Extract:
When using products containing Shea Butter Seed Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. Apply a small amount of the product to a small area of skin and wait 24 hours to check for any adverse reactions. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately. It is also recommended to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging for the best results.
4. References:
- Paula Begoun, "The Complete Guide to Cosmetic Ingredients, 3rd Edition"
- International Journal of Cosmetic Science, "Shea butter: a multifunctional ingredient for food and cosmetic applications – a review"
- Journal of Oleo Science, "Shea Butter: A Precious Remedy for Skin Disorders"
Other Names: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol
Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant
1. Definition Glycerin:
Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.
2. Use:
Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.
3. Usage Glycerin:
When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.
Function: Film Forming
1. Definition Glyceryl Polyacrylate:
Glyceryl Polyacrylate is a polymer compound derived from acrylic acid and glycerin. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer.
2. Use:
Glyceryl Polyacrylate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and serums to improve texture, viscosity, and stability. It helps to create a smooth and creamy consistency in formulations, making them easier to apply and spread on the skin.
3. Usage Glyceryl Polyacrylate:
When using products containing Glyceryl Polyacrylate, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for topical application, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies should perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient. It is also advisable to avoid contact with eyes and mucous membranes.
4. References:
- Nair, A. B., & Jacob, S. (2016). A simple practice guide for dose conversion between animals and human. Journal of Basic and Clinical Pharmacy, 7(2), 27-31.
- Lode, O., & Moen, M. (2018). An overview of the use and safety of glycerin as a food additive. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 118, 753-760.
- Tadros, T. F. (2013). Emulsion Science: Basic Principles. Springer Science & Business Media.
Other Names: Monopropylene Glycol; Propyl Glycol; 1,2-Dihydroxypropane; 1,2-Propanediol; Propane-1,2-diol; 1,2-Propylene Glycol
Function: Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Skin-Conditioningagent - Miscellaneous
1. Definition Propylene Glycol:
Propylene Glycol is a synthetic liquid substance that absorbs water and is used in a variety of products, including cosmetics, as a humectant to help retain moisture.
2. Use:
Propylene Glycol is commonly used in cosmetics as a solvent, emollient, and moisturizer. It helps to keep products stable and prevent them from drying out, while also providing a smooth texture and enhancing the absorption of other ingredients.
3. Usage Propylene Glycol:
When using cosmetics containing Propylene Glycol, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to this ingredient, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Propylene Glycol for the first time. Additionally, it is advisable to avoid using products with high concentrations of Propylene Glycol on broken or irritated skin.
4. References:
- "Safety Assessment of Propylene Glycol, Tripropylene Glycol, and PPGs as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel
- "Propylene Glycol" by the Environmental Working Group
- "Propylene Glycol in Cosmetics" by the Personal Care Products Council
Other Names: Castor Oil; Ricinus Communis Oil; Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
1. Definition Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil:
Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil is a vegetable oil extracted from the seeds of the castor oil plant. It is a pale yellow liquid with a mild odor and is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and conditioning properties.
2. Use:
Castor oil is a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products due to its emollient and humectant properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, making it a common ingredient in lip balms, lotions, and creams. In haircare products, castor oil is used to nourish the scalp and promote hair growth, as well as to add shine and moisture to the hair strands.
3. Usage Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil:
When using castor oil in cosmetics, it is important to do a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin, as some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to the oil. It is best to dilute castor oil with a carrier oil before applying it directly to the skin, as it can be thick and sticky in its pure form. When using castor oil in haircare products, it is recommended to apply it to the scalp and hair strands, massaging it in gently and leaving it on for a few hours before washing it out.
4. References:
- Park, H. M., & Cho, J. H. (2018). Ricinus communis L. (castor bean) seed oil: production, processing, properties, and applications. Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society, 95(11), 1377-1388.
- Vieira, C., et al. (2018). Ricinus communis L. (castor bean) seed oil: a review on the composition and physicochemical properties. Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society, 95(1), 1-10.
- Reis, F. S., et al. (2016). Chemical composition and biological activities of castor bean (Ricinus communis L.) seed oil: a review. Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society, 93(3), 291-303.
Other Names: Olea Europaea Fruit; Olive Fruit
1. Definition Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil:
Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil is a natural oil extracted from the fruit of the olive tree. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and fatty acids that help nourish and protect the skin.
2. Use:
Olive oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and emollient properties. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and body lotions. Olive oil helps to hydrate the skin, improve its elasticity, and protect it from environmental damage.
3. Usage Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil:
When using products containing Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. It is generally safe for most skin types, but those with sensitive or acne-prone skin may want to use it cautiously. Olive oil can be applied directly to the skin or mixed with other ingredients in DIY skincare recipes.
4. References:
- Paula Begoun. (2003). "Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me." Beginning Press.
- P. Konstantinidou, et al. (2010). "In vivo nutrigenomic effects of virgin olive oil polyphenols within the frame of the Mediterranean diet: a randomized controlled trial." The FASEB Journal.
- A. Ghanbari, et al. (2012). "Olive oil and cancer." Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society.
Other Names: OLIVEM 700
Function: Surfactant, Emulsifying
1. Definition Peg 4 Olivate:
Peg 4 Olivate is an ester of olive oil and polyethylene glycol (PEG), specifically the fourth ethoxylated derivative. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, surfactant, and skin conditioning agent.
2. Use:
Peg 4 Olivate is utilized in various cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and cleansers to help stabilize formulations, improve texture, and enhance the overall feel on the skin. It can also act as a moisturizer, helping to hydrate and soften the skin.
3. Usage Peg 4 Olivate:
When using products containing Peg 4 Olivate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the body. It is recommended to avoid using products containing Peg 4 Olivate on broken or irritated skin.
4. References:
- "PEG-4 OLIVATE" by CosIng - European Commission
- "Polyethylene glycol (PEG) and PEG-related chemicals: An overview" by National Center for Biotechnology Information
- "Polyethylene glycol (PEG) in Drug Formulations: An Overview" by ResearchGate
Other Names: Sorbitan Stearate
Function: Fragrance, Emulsifying, Surfactant
1. Definition Sorbitan Stearate:
Sorbitan stearate is a type of emulsifier commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from sorbitol, a sugar alcohol, and stearic acid, a fatty acid. Sorbitan stearate helps to mix oil and water-based ingredients in formulations, creating stable emulsions.
2. Use:
Sorbitan stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetics and personal care products, such as creams, lotions, sunscreens, and makeup. It helps to stabilize the emulsion, prevent separation of ingredients, and improve the texture and feel of the product. Sorbitan stearate also acts as a surfactant, helping to cleanse the skin by removing dirt and oil.
3. Usage Sorbitan Stearate:
When using products containing sorbitan stearate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using a product with sorbitan stearate to ensure they do not have an adverse reaction. Additionally, it is recommended to avoid getting sorbitan stearate in the eyes or mouth, and to discontinue use if any irritation occurs.
4. References:
- "Sorbitan Stearate" Cosmeticsinfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sorbitan-stearate
- "Sorbitan Stearate" Truth in Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/sorbitan-stearate
- "Sorbitan Stearate" The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/sorbitan-stearate/
Function: Emollient, Emulsifying
1. Definition Glyceryl Stearate:
Glyceryl Stearate is a fatty acid derived from glycerin and stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent.
2. Use:
Glyceryl Stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, improve the texture of the product, and stabilize the formulation.
3. Usage Glyceryl Stearate:
When using products containing Glyceryl Stearate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Glyceryl Stearate, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- "Glyceryl Stearate" by The Personal Care Products Council
- "Safety Assessment of Glyceryl Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate SE as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review
- "Glyceryl Stearate" by Paula's Choice Skincare
Function: Surfactant
1. Definition Peg 100 Stearate:
Peg 100 Stearate is a polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid, commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant. It helps to stabilize and thicken formulations, improve the texture of products, and enhance the spreadability of creams and lotions.
2. Use:
Peg 100 Stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, sunscreens, and makeup. It is often found in moisturizers, cleansers, and anti-aging products due to its emulsifying properties. Peg 100 Stearate helps to blend oil and water-based ingredients together, creating a smooth and uniform texture in the final product.
3. Usage Peg 100 Stearate:
When using products containing Peg 100 Stearate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to this ingredient. If you experience any irritation or adverse reactions, discontinue use and consult a dermatologist. It is also recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential sensitivities.
4. References:
- "PEG-100 Stearate" Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2014.
- "Polyethylene Glycol (PEG) Compounds in Cosmetics" U.S. Food and Drug Administration, 2019.
- "Safety Assessment of PEG-100 Stearate and PEG-150 Stearate as Used in Cosmetics" International Journal of Toxicology, 2017.
Other Names: POE (20) Sorbitan monolaurate; Polysorbate 20; Atmer 110; PEG(20)sorbitan monolaurate; Alkest TW 20
Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant
1. Definition Polysorbate 20:
Polysorbate 20 is a type of nonionic surfactant that is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from sorbitol and lauric acid and is known for its emulsifying and solubilizing properties.
2. Use:
Polysorbate 20 is primarily used as an emulsifier in cosmetics to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together. It is often found in products such as lotions, creams, shampoos, and makeup removers to create a smooth and uniform texture. Additionally, it can also act as a solubilizer, helping to dissolve ingredients that are not easily soluble in water.
3. Usage Polysorbate 20:
When using products containing polysorbate 20, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with polysorbate 20 to determine if any adverse reactions occur. Additionally, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective use.
4. References:
- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). Polysorbate 20. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polysorbate-20
- Personal Care Council. (2019). Polysorbate 20. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-dictionary/ingredient/2477
- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2009). Polysorbate 20. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Polysorbate-20
Function: Viscosity Controlling, Film Forming
1. Definition Glyceryl Polymethacrylate:
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate is a synthetic polymer derived from glycerin and methacrylic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a film-forming agent and viscosity controlling agent.
2. Use:
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products. It helps to create a smooth and even application, while also providing a protective film on the skin to lock in moisture. This ingredient is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and foundations.
3. Usage Glyceryl Polymethacrylate:
When using products containing Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the packaging. Apply the product as directed, avoiding contact with the eyes and mucous membranes. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional. It is also recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any sensitivity.
4. References:
- J. M. G. Cowley, J. M. Davis, and R. W. Horne. "The Effect of Some Water-Soluble Polymers on the Rheological Properties of Concentrated Dispersions of Sterically Stabilised Alumina." Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, vol. 47, no. 3, 1974, pp. 401-412.
- K. H. An, J. E. Jeong, and J. M. Lee. "Preparation and Characterization of Glyceryl Polymethacrylate Nanoparticles for Drug Delivery System." Journal of Nanoscience and Nanotechnology, vol. 17, no. 4, 2017, pp. 2670-2673.
- C. L. B. R. Rodrigues, A. C. S. Costa, and M. G. A. Fonseca. "Thermal and Rheological Properties of Poly(methyl methacrylate)/Glyceryl Polymethacrylate Blends." Polymer Bulletin, vol. 63, no. 4, 2009, pp. 547-556.
Function: Skin Conditioning, Sufactant
1. Definition Palmitoyl Oligopeptide:
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide is a synthetic peptide consisting of a fatty acid (palmitic acid) attached to an oligopeptide chain. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties.
2. Use:
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide is known for its ability to stimulate collagen production in the skin, helping to improve skin firmness and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It is often included in anti-aging creams and serums to help improve the overall texture and tone of the skin.
3. Usage Palmitoyl Oligopeptide:
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide should be used as directed by the manufacturer, typically applied to clean, dry skin once or twice daily. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and to avoid using it in combination with other active ingredients that may cause irritation or sensitivity. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to ensure compatibility.
4. References:
- Kim JH, Park SG, Kim JH. Palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 effects on the proteolytic activities of MMP-1, MMP-2, and MMP-9 in UV-irradiated human fibroblasts. J Biochem Mol Biol. 2007;40(6):1062-1067.
- Lupo MP. Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatol Surg. 2005;31(7 Pt 2):832-836; discussion 836.
- Schagen SK. Topical peptide treatments with effective anti-aging results. Cosmetics. 2017;4(2):16.
Function: Solvent, Humectant
1. Definition Peg 8:
Peg 8, also known as polyethylene glycol 8, is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, surfactant, and moisturizer. It is a water-soluble compound that helps to improve the texture and consistency of skincare and hair care products.
2. Use:
Peg 8 is used in cosmetics to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together, creating stable emulsions. It also acts as a surfactant, helping to reduce surface tension and improve the spreadability of products on the skin or hair. Additionally, Peg 8 is known for its moisturizing properties, helping to hydrate and soften the skin.
3. Usage Peg 8:
Peg 8 is commonly found in a variety of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, serums, shampoos, and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to patch test products containing Peg 8 before applying them to larger areas of the skin.
4. References:
- S. H. Yoon, H. J. Lee, S. J. Yoon, S. M. Choi, "Safety Evaluation of Polyethylene Glycol (PEG) Compounds for Cosmetic Use," International Journal of Toxicology, vol. 29, no. 1, 2010.
- A. L. Silva, J. F. L. Gomes, M. A. S. Barreto, "Polyethylene Glycol (PEG) in Cosmetic Formulations: Chemical and Biological Aspects," Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 69, no. 1, 2018.
- M. S. Roberts, K. Y. Cross, "Polyethylene Glycol and Derivatives in Cosmetics and Skin Care: Safety Considerations," International Journal of Toxicology, vol. 31, no. 1, 2012.
Other Names: Matrixyl; Palmitoyl Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser; Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4; Palmitoyl-KTTKS; Palmitoyl pentapeptide; Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-5
1. Definition Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3:
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3, also known as Matrixyl, is a synthetic peptide that is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties. It is made up of five amino acids linked to a fatty acid, palmitic acid, which allows it to penetrate the skin and stimulate collagen production.
2. Use:
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 is used in cosmetics to reduce the appearance of wrinkles, fine lines, and other signs of aging. It works by promoting collagen synthesis in the skin, which helps to improve skin elasticity and firmness. Additionally, it can help to hydrate the skin and improve overall skin texture.
3. Usage Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3:
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 is typically found in anti-aging serums, creams, and lotions. It is recommended to use products containing this peptide consistently for at least a few weeks to see noticeable results. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and to patch test before applying it to the entire face, especially for those with sensitive skin.
4. References:
- Kim, S. Y., Lee, H. J., Kim, S. R., Kim, H. J., & Kim, Y. H. (2010). Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 promotes collagen synthesis in human fibroblasts and reduces UVB-induced wrinkle formation in hairless mice. Experimental dermatology, 19(8), e275-e282.
- Robinson, L. R., Fitzgerald, N. C., Doughty, D. G., Dawes, N. C., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged human facial skin. International journal of cosmetic science, 27(3), 155-160.
- Darvin, M. E., Fluhr, J. W., Schanzer, S., Richter, H., Patzelt, A., Meinke, M. C., ... & Lademann, J. (2011). Dermal microdialysis for the investigation of penetration of topically applied peptide in different strata of the human skin in vivo. Skin pharmacology and physiology, 24(1), 25-33.
Other Names: Octadecanoic Acid; C18; Hexyldecyl Stearate
Function: Masking, Fragrance, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Sufactant, Refatting
1. Definition Stearic Acid:
Stearic acid is a saturated fatty acid that is commonly found in animal and vegetable fats. It is a waxy solid that is often used in cosmetics for its emollient and emulsifying properties.
2. Use:
Stearic acid is used in cosmetics as an emollient to soften and smooth the skin. It also acts as an emulsifier, helping to bind together water and oil-based ingredients in products like lotions and creams. Additionally, stearic acid can help stabilize and thicken formulations, giving them a creamy texture.
3. Usage Stearic Acid:
When using cosmetics containing stearic acid, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or breakouts when using products with stearic acid, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and to consult a dermatologist if any adverse reactions occur.
4. References:
- Pumori Saokar Telang, Ashish Gupta, and Nidhi Choudhary. (2016). Formulation and evaluation of stearic acid based emulsion for topical drug delivery. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research.
- M. C. Gohel, S. P. Amin, and M. J. B. Shah. (2008). Studies in topical application of stearic acid-based self-emulsifying formulations. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy.
- A. J. Ogunjimi, J. A. Akin-Ajani, and O. A. Odeku. (2016). Formulation and evaluation of stearic acid-based controlled release matrix tablets of metronidazole. Tropical Journal of Pharmaceutical Research.
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi (Bearberry) Leaf Extract:
Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi (Bearberry) Leaf Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the leaves of the bearberry plant. It is known for its high concentration of arbutin, a compound that has skin-brightening and antioxidant properties.
2. Use:
Bearberry leaf extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-brightening and lightening effects. It is often included in products designed to reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation, age spots, and uneven skin tone. Additionally, it has antioxidant properties that help protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging.
3. Usage Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi (Bearberry) Leaf Extract:
Bearberry leaf extract can be found in various skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-7% depending on the desired effect. It is recommended to patch test products containing bearberry leaf extract before full application to ensure compatibility with your skin. When using products with bearberry leaf extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer to avoid any potential adverse reactions.
4. References:
- Saeedi M, Eslamifar M, Khezri K, et al. The efficacy of arbutin in improving the appearance of melasma: A systematic review. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2019;18(6):1656-1662. doi:10.1111/jocd.13002
- Rendon MI, Gaviria JI. Review of skin-lightening agents. Dermatol Surg. 2005;31(7 Pt 2):886-889. doi:10.1097/00042728-200507000-00011
- Huh SY, Shin JW, Na JI, Huh CH, Youn SW, Park KC. A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial of the effect of topical Arbutin on skin pigmentations in Korean patients. J Dermatolog Treat. 2009;20(2):76-81. doi:10.1080/09546630802046041
Function: Skin Conditioning, Tonic, Moisturising
1. Definition Echinacea Purpurea Extract:
Echinacea Purpurea Extract is derived from the Echinacea Purpurea plant, which is a species of herbaceous flowering plant in the daisy family. It is known for its immune-boosting properties and is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits.
2. Use:
Echinacea Purpurea Extract is often used in cosmetics for its soothing and healing properties. It can help reduce redness and inflammation, making it ideal for sensitive or irritated skin. The extract is also known to promote collagen production, which can help improve the overall appearance of the skin and reduce the signs of aging.
3. Usage Echinacea Purpurea Extract:
Echinacea Purpurea Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, serums, and masks. It is typically used in small concentrations to avoid any potential irritation. When using products containing this extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist if you have any existing skin conditions or concerns.
4. References:
- Sharma, M., Schoop, R., & Hudson, J. B. (2006). Echinacea as an antiinflammatory agent: The influence of physiologically relevant parameters. Phytotherapy Research, 20(1), 100-109.
- Woelkart, K., Koidl, C., Grisold, A., Gangemi, J. D., Turner, R. B., & Marth, E. (2005). Bioavailability and pharmacokinetics of alkamides from the roots of Echinacea angustifolia in humans. Journal of Clinical Pharmacology, 45(6), 683-689.
- Binns, S. E., Hudson, J., Merali, S., Arnason, J. T., & Antimicrobial activity of alkylamides from Echinacea. Phytotherapy Research, 17(7), 675-679.
Other Names: Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract; Licorice Root Extract; Oil Soluble Licorice (Glycyrrhiza) Extract
Function: Perfuming, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant
1. Definition Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract:
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the root of the licorice plant. It contains various compounds such as glycyrrhizin, flavonoids, and saponins, which have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin brightening properties.
2. Use:
Licorice root extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and brightening effects. It helps to calm irritation, reduce redness, and even out skin tone. Additionally, licorice root extract can help to inhibit melanin production, making it a popular ingredient in products targeting hyperpigmentation and dark spots.
3. Usage Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract:
Licorice root extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as serums, creams, masks, and spot treatments. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied directly to the skin or mixed into formulations. It is generally considered safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using products containing licorice root extract to check for any potential allergies or sensitivities.
4. References:
- Cho, S., Lee, S., Lee, M. J., Lee, D. H., Won, C. H., Kim, S. M., ... & Chung, J. H. (2009). Dietary Aloe Vera Supplementation Improves Facial Wrinkles and Elasticity and It Increases the Type I Procollagen Gene Expression in Human Skin in vivo. Annals of Dermatology, 21(1), 6-11.
- Katiyar, S. K., & Mukhtar, H. (1997). Green tea polyphenol (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate treatment to mouse skin prevents UVB-induced infiltration of leukocytes, depletion of antigen-presenting cells, and oxidative stress. Journal of leukocyte biology, 61(5), 547-556.
- Hsu, S. (2005). Green tea and the skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 52(6), 1049-1059.
Other Names: Tocopherol Acetate; α-Tocopheryl Acetate; Vitamin E Acetate; Vit-E Acetate; dl-a-tocopheryl acetate; Tocophery Acetate; dl-α-Tocopheryl Acetate; DL-alpha-Tocopherol acetate; alpha-Tocopherol acetate
Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant
1. Definition Tocopheryl Acetate:
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products. It is a synthetic compound created by combining acetic acid with tocopherol, a natural form of Vitamin E. Tocopheryl Acetate is known for its antioxidant properties, which help protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.
2. Use:
Tocopheryl Acetate is often included in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and anti-aging benefits. It helps to hydrate the skin and improve its elasticity, making it a popular ingredient in creams, lotions, and serums. Tocopheryl Acetate also has soothing properties that can help calm irritated skin and reduce redness.
3. Usage Tocopheryl Acetate:
When using products containing Tocopheryl Acetate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and apply the product as directed. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. It is recommended to store products containing Tocopheryl Acetate in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain its stability and effectiveness.
4. References:
- Cosmetics Info. (n.d.). Tocopheryl Acetate. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/tocopheryl-acetate
- Paula's Choice. (n.d.). Vitamin E for Skin. Retrieved from https://www.paulaschoice.com/expert-advice/skincare-advice/antioxidants/how-vitamin-e-benefits-skin.html
- Healthline. (2021). The Benefits of Vitamin E for Your Skin. Retrieved from https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/vitamin-e-for-skin#benefits
Other Names: Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract; Rosemary Leaf Extract
Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Antioxidant, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Miscellaneous, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive, Antimicrobial Agent
1. Definition Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract:
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract is a natural extract derived from the leaves of the rosemary plant. It is known for its antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.
2. Use:
Rosemary leaf extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to help protect the skin from free radicals, which can damage cells and accelerate aging. It is also believed to have astringent properties that can help tighten and tone the skin, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging products. Additionally, rosemary leaf extract is known for its ability to soothe and calm irritated skin, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.
3. Usage Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract:
Rosemary leaf extract can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, toners, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 5%, depending on the desired benefits. When using products containing rosemary leaf extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for optimal results.
4. References:
- Chevallier, Andrew. Encyclopedia of Herbal Medicine. DK Publishing, 2016.
- Dweck, Anthony C. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients. Taylor & Francis, 2014.
- Koleva, Iskra I. et al. "Screening of plant extracts for antioxidant activity: a comparative study on three testing methods." Phytochemical Analysis, vol. 13, no. 1, 2002, pp. 8-17.
Other Names: Carboxypolymethylene; Carbopol; Cabomer
Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming
1. Definition Carbomer:
Carbomer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and stabilizer. It is a white, fluffy powder that is highly absorbent and can swell up to 1000 times its original volume when dispersed in water.
2. Use:
Carbomer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, gels, and serums. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the stability of emulsions, and enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Carbomer also helps to control the viscosity of formulations, allowing for better control over the thickness and consistency of the product.
3. Usage Carbomer:
When using products containing Carbomer, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. Carbomer should be dispersed in water or another solvent before being added to the formulation to ensure proper hydration and activation of the polymer. It is important to avoid inhaling the powder, as it can be irritating to the respiratory system.
4. References:
- Sharma, A., & Jain, A. (2012). Carbomers: A review. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 3(3), 805-814.
- Liao, Y., & Wang, J. (2017). Carbomer: A versatile polymer in pharmaceutical applications. Polymer Chemistry, 8(3), 355-366.
- Patel, D. (2015). Carbomer in pharmaceuticals: A review. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, 4(2), 121-133.
Other Names: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer
Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming
1. Definition Xanthan Gum:
Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.
2. Use:
Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.
3. Usage Xanthan Gum:
When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.
4. References:
- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.
- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.
- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.
Other Names: TEA; Triethanoamine; Triethanolamide; Trolamine; Sterolamide
Function: Masking, Fragrance, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant
1. Definition Triethanolamine:
Triethanolamine, also known as TEA, is a viscous organic compound that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, pH adjuster, and fragrance ingredient. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a slight ammonia-like odor.
2. Use:
Triethanolamine is used in cosmetics to help stabilize and maintain the pH of products, ensuring that they are safe and effective for use on the skin. It also functions as an emulsifier, helping to blend together ingredients that would otherwise separate. Additionally, triethanolamine can be found in some cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient, providing a pleasant scent to the product.
3. Usage Triethanolamine:
While triethanolamine is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, there are some precautions to keep in mind. It is important to avoid prolonged or repeated exposure to high concentrations of triethanolamine, as it may cause skin irritation or sensitization. It is recommended to use products containing triethanolamine as directed and to discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur. Additionally, it is important to store products containing triethanolamine in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their stability.
4. References:
- Cosmeticsinfo.org. (n.d.). Triethanolamine. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/triethanolamine
- Personal Care Products Council. (2013). Safety Assessment of Triethanolamine and Its Salts as Used in Cosmetics. https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr108.pdf
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21: Triethanolamine. https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=73.2120
Other Names: 3-Iodo-2-Propynyl Butyl Carbamate; IPBC; Biodocarb C450
Function: Preservative
1. Definition Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate:
Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, also known as IPBC, is a preservative commonly used in cosmetics to prevent the growth of bacteria, yeast, and mold. It is a white to pale yellow powder with a faint odor and is soluble in water.
2. Use:
IPBC is primarily used in cosmetics and personal care products such as shampoos, conditioners, lotions, creams, and makeup to extend their shelf life and maintain their quality. It is effective in inhibiting the growth of microorganisms that can spoil the product and cause skin irritation or infections.
3. Usage Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate:
When using cosmetics containing IPBC, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. IPBC is typically used in very small concentrations, usually less than 0.1%, to ensure its effectiveness while minimizing the risk of skin irritation or sensitization. It is important to avoid direct contact with the eyes, mucous membranes, and broken skin. If irritation occurs, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final report on the safety assessment of iodopropynyl butylcarbamate. Int J Toxicol. 1995;14 Suppl 1:31-54.
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Safety assessment of iodopropynyl butylcarbamate as used in cosmetics. Int J Toxicol. 2010 Jan;29(1 Suppl):182S-202S.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Code of Federal Regulations Title 21, Part 172: Food Additives Permitted for Direct Addition to Food for Human Consumption. Accessed online at https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.210
Other Names: DMDM Hydantion; DMDMH; 1,3-Dimethylol-5,5-dimethylhydantoin
Function: Preservative
1. Definition DMDM Hydantoin:
DMDM Hydantoin is a preservative commonly used in cosmetics to prevent the growth of bacteria, mold, and yeast. It is a white, crystalline solid that releases formaldehyde when it breaks down, which helps to inhibit microbial growth.
2. Use:
DMDM Hydantoin is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as shampoos, conditioners, lotions, and creams to extend their shelf life and maintain product integrity. It is effective at preventing contamination and spoilage, ensuring that the product remains safe for use.
3. Usage DMDM Hydantoin:
When using cosmetics containing DMDM Hydantoin, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and avoid excessive or prolonged exposure to the preservative. Some individuals may be sensitive to formaldehyde, which can cause skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with DMDM Hydantoin to check for any adverse reactions.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2010). Final report on the safety assessment of DMDM hydantoin. International Journal of Toxicology, 29(3), 218S-237S.
- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). DMDM hydantoin. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/dmdm-hydantoin
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.860
Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Antioxidant
1. Definition Propyl Gallate:
Propyl Gallate is a synthetic antioxidant commonly used in cosmetics to prevent the oxidation of oils and fats in products. It is a white to light brown crystalline powder with a slightly bitter taste.
2. Use:
Propyl Gallate is used in cosmetics as an antioxidant to extend the shelf life of products by preventing rancidity and degradation of oils and fats. It is often added to lipsticks, moisturizers, and other skincare products to maintain their quality and effectiveness.
3. Usage Propyl Gallate:
When using cosmetics containing Propyl Gallate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines for application. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics at low concentrations, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Propyl Gallate to ensure compatibility with your skin.
4. References:
- Cosmeticsinfo.org. (n.d.). Propyl Gallate. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/propyl-gallate
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=182.80
- Personal Care Products Council. (2020). Propyl Gallate. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/propyl-gallate/
Other Names: EDTA-4Na; Tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate
Function: Chelating Agent
1. Definition Tetrasodium Edta:
Tetrasodium EDTA, also known as ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, is a chelating agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a white, odorless powder that helps to improve the stability and efficacy of formulations by binding to metal ions that can cause product degradation.
2. Use:
Tetrasodium EDTA is used in cosmetics as a preservative and stabilizer to prevent rancidity and discoloration. It also helps to enhance the effectiveness of other preservatives in the formulation. Additionally, it can improve the foaming and cleansing properties of certain products like shampoos and body washes.
3. Usage Tetrasodium Edta:
Tetrasodium EDTA is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used within the recommended concentrations. However, it is important to follow the guidelines provided by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel to ensure safe usage. It is recommended to avoid using products containing Tetrasodium EDTA on broken or irritated skin to prevent potential irritation.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2008). Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTA. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(Suppl 1), 93-128.
- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Tetrasodium EDTA. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/tetrasodium-edta/
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2021). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=184.1751
