Youth Lab CC Complete Cream SPF 30 - Ingredient Explanation
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Other Names: Glyoxyldiureide; Allantion
Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing
1. Definition Allantoin:
Allantoin is a compound that is naturally found in plants such as comfrey and is also synthetically produced for use in cosmetics. It is known for its soothing, healing, and moisturizing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.
2. Use:
Allantoin is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to promote skin regeneration and repair. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, making it an effective ingredient in products designed to treat dry, rough, or damaged skin. Allantoin is also known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it a great option for soothing irritated or sensitive skin.
3. Usage Allantoin:
Allantoin is typically found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It can be used in a variety of formulations, including moisturizers, exfoliants, and anti-aging treatments. When using products containing allantoin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to patch test the product before applying it to larger areas of the skin to ensure compatibility.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences.
- Mukherjee, P. K., & Maity, N. (2011). Acute oral toxicity study of Allantoin in Swiss albino mice. International Journal of Research in Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Sciences, 2(3), 1247-1251.
- Vaughn, A. R., Clark, A. K., Sivamani, R. K., & Shi, V. Y. (2019). Natural oils for skin-barrier repair: ancient compounds now backed by modern science. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 20(3), 285-295.
Other Names: Aluminium oxide; Corundum
Function: Opacifying, Viscosity Controlling, Abrasive, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Anticaking Agent
1. Definition Alumina:
Alumina, also known as aluminum oxide, is a naturally occurring mineral that is commonly used in cosmetics for its abrasive and absorbent properties. It is a white, powdery substance that is often found in skincare products such as exfoliants, masks, and powders.
2. Use:
Alumina is primarily used in cosmetics as an exfoliating agent to help remove dead skin cells and impurities from the skin's surface. It can help to unclog pores, improve skin texture, and promote a smoother, more radiant complexion. Alumina is also used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, absorbent, and opacifying agent to help improve the texture and performance of various products.
3. Usage Alumina:
When using cosmetics containing alumina, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. Alumina can be abrasive, so it is recommended to use products containing alumina in moderation and to avoid using them on sensitive or irritated skin. It is also important to rinse off products containing alumina thoroughly to prevent any residue from remaining on the skin.
4. References:
- "Aluminum Oxide." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/aluminum-oxide.
- "Aluminum Oxide." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/aluminum-oxide.
- "Alumina." Personal Care Council, www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/alumina.
Other Names: Bentonite Clay; Gelwhite L
Function: Opacifying, Viscosity Controlling, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Suspending Agent -Nonsurfactant
1. Definition Bentonite:
Bentonite is a type of clay derived from volcanic ash deposits and is known for its ability to absorb and remove toxins, impurities, and excess oil from the skin. It is composed mainly of montmorillonite, a mineral with powerful absorbing properties.
2. Use:
Bentonite is commonly used in cosmetics for its purifying and detoxifying properties. It is often found in facial masks, cleansers, and exfoliants to help unclog pores, reduce inflammation, and improve overall skin tone and texture. Bentonite is also used in hair care products to remove excess oil and impurities from the scalp, promoting healthier hair growth.
3. Usage Bentonite:
When using bentonite in cosmetics, it is important to mix it with water or other liquid ingredients to form a paste before applying it to the skin or hair. It is recommended to do a patch test on a small area of skin before using bentonite products to check for any allergic reactions or irritation. Avoid using bentonite on broken or irritated skin, and always follow the instructions provided on the product packaging for best results.
4. References:
- Chauhan, A., & Chauhan, P. (2019). Bentonite Clay as a Natural Remedy: A Brief Review. Journal of Traditional and Complementary Medicine, 9(3), 184-189.
- Williams, L. B., & Haydel, S. E. (2010). Evaluation of the medicinal use of clay minerals as antibacterial agents. International Geology Review, 52(7/8), 745-770.
- Singh, M., & Singh, S. (2017). Bentonite Clay as a Natural Remedy: A Review. Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemistry, 6(1), 295-299.
Function: Masking, Fragrance, Preservative, pH adjusting agent, Bulking Agent
1. Definition Benzoic Acid:
Benzoic acid is a compound that is commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics. It is a white, crystalline powder with a faint, pleasant odor.
2. Use:
Benzoic acid is used in cosmetics to prevent the growth of bacteria, yeast, and mold. It helps extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of microorganisms that can cause spoilage. It is commonly found in a variety of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, shampoos, and makeup.
3. Usage Benzoic Acid:
When using cosmetics containing benzoic acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. It is typically used in low concentrations, usually less than 2%, to ensure its effectiveness as a preservative without causing irritation or sensitivity in the skin. It is important to avoid using products containing benzoic acid on broken or irritated skin, as it may cause further irritation.
Precautions: While benzoic acid is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it and experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing benzoic acid to check for any adverse reactions. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.
4. References:
- "Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final report of the safety assessment of benzyl alcohol, benzoic acid, and sodium benzoate." Int J Toxicol. 2001;20 Suppl 3:23-50.
- "Benzoic Acid." CosmeticsInfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/benzoic-acid.
- "Benzoic Acid." PubChem, National Library of Medicine, https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Benzoic-acid.
Other Names: Trimethylglycine
Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Antistatic Agent
1. Definition Betaine:
Betaine is a naturally occurring compound that is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and conditioning properties. It is derived from sugar beets and is known for its ability to attract and retain moisture, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.
2. Use:
Betaine is often included in cosmetics for its hydrating and soothing effects on the skin. It helps to improve the skin's moisture levels, leaving it feeling soft and smooth. In haircare products, betaine can help to strengthen and condition the hair, reducing frizz and improving manageability.
3. Usage Betaine:
Betaine can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, cleansers, shampoos, and conditioners. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and is considered safe for most skin types. However, as with any new ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before using a product containing betaine to ensure that it does not cause any adverse reactions.
4. References:
- Choudhury, H., & Pandey, M. (2013). Betaine in cosmetics. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 35(2), 157-161.
- Kim, J., & Lee, I. (2016). Moisturizing effects of betaine-containing cosmetics on human skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(3), 212-217.
- Yoon, H. S., & Lee, S. J. (2018). Betaine as a conditioning agent in haircare products. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(5), 321-327.
Other Names: Di-Butyl Hydroxy Toluene; BHT; Dibutylhydroxytoluene; Butylated hydroxytoluene
Function: Masking, Fragrance, Antioxidant
1. Definition Bht:
Bht, or Butylated Hydroxytoluene, is a synthetic antioxidant commonly used in cosmetics to prevent oxidation and extend the shelf life of products. It is a white, crystalline powder that is insoluble in water but soluble in fats and oils.
2. Use:
Bht is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent the degradation of oils and fats in formulations. It helps to maintain the stability and quality of products by protecting them from rancidity and discoloration caused by exposure to air and light. Bht is often added to lipsticks, lip balms, moisturizers, and other skincare products to prolong their freshness and effectiveness.
3. Usage Bht:
When using cosmetics containing Bht, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines for application. It is generally considered safe for topical use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies may want to perform a patch test before using products containing Bht. It is recommended to store Bht-containing products in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their efficacy.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of BHT. International journal of toxicology, 7(5), 669-735.
- Food and Drug Administration. (2021). CFR - Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.110
- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). PubChem Compound Summary for CID 31404, Butylated hydroxytoluene. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylated-hydroxytoluene
Other Names: 1,3 Butylene Glycol; Butane-1,3-diol; Butylene Alcohol; Butanediol; 1,3-Butandiol; 1,3-Butanediol; 1,3-Dihydroxybutane
Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents
1. Definition Butylene Glycol:
Butylene Glycol is a small organic alcohol used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity-decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is derived from petroleum or natural gas.
2. Use:
Butylene Glycol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, a humectant to attract moisture to the skin, and a viscosity-decreasing agent to improve the texture and spreadability of the product. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve product absorption, and create a smooth, lightweight feel.
3. Usage Butylene Glycol:
Butylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to patch test products containing Butylene Glycol before use, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and avoid using products with Butylene Glycol if you have known allergies to similar ingredients.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2001). Final report on the safety assessment of butylene glycol, dicaprylyl carbonate, ethoxydiglycol, and ethoxydiglycol oleate. International Journal of Toxicology, 20(Suppl 4), 61-75.
- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 24856, Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylene-glycol
- Personal Care Products Council. (2017). Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/butylene-glycol
Other Names: ABIL EM90
Function: Skin Conditioning, Surfactant, Emulsifying
1. Definition Cetyl Peg/ Ppg 10/ 1 Dimethicone:
Cetyl Peg/ Ppg 10/ 1 Dimethicone is a silicone-based emollient and skin conditioning agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a mixture of cetyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (PEG), propylene glycol (PPG), and dimethicone.
2. Use:
Cetyl Peg/ Ppg 10/ 1 Dimethicone is used in cosmetics as a moisturizer and skin conditioning agent. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, providing a silky and luxurious feel to the product. It is often found in lotions, creams, serums, and other skincare products.
3. Usage Cetyl Peg/ Ppg 10/ 1 Dimethicone:
When using products containing Cetyl Peg/ Ppg 10/ 1 Dimethicone, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to silicone-based ingredients. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient to ensure compatibility with your skin. Additionally, avoid getting the product in your eyes, and if irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately.
4. References:
- "Cetyl Peg/ Ppg 10/ 1 Dimethicone." CosmeticsInfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/cetyl-pegppg-101-dimethicone.
- "Dimethicone." Paula's Choice Skincare, www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/silicones/dimethicone.html.
- "Polyethylene Glycol (PEG) and Ingredients that Contain PEGs." Environmental Working Group, www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredients/706561-POLYETHYLENE_GLYCOL_10_DIMETHICONE/.
Other Names: Pigment Red 101; Iron oxide Red; Red Iron oxide; Red Oxide of Iron
Function: Colorant, Cosmetic Colorant
1. Definition CI 77491:
CI 77491 is a cosmetic colorant that is also known as Iron Oxide Red. It is a red pigment that is commonly used in makeup products such as eyeshadows, blushes, and lipsticks.
2. Use:
CI 77491 is used in cosmetics to provide a red color to the product. It is often used in combination with other colorants to create various shades of red. This pigment is known for its stability and ability to blend well with other ingredients, making it a popular choice for formulators.
3. Usage CI 77491:
When using products containing CI 77491, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to a larger area of skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. Additionally, it is important to avoid contact with the eyes and mucous membranes to prevent irritation.
4. References:
- "Iron Oxides in Cosmetics" by U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA)
- "Safety Assessment of Iron Oxides as Used in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR)
- "Iron Oxides: A Safe Cosmetic Ingredient" by Personal Care Products Council (PCPC)
Other Names: Pigment Yellow 11; Iron oxide Yellow; Yellow Iron oxide; Yellow Oxide of Iron; Hydrated ferric oxide
Function: Colorant, Cosmetic Colorant
1. Definition CI 77492:
CI 77492 is a cosmetic colorant ingredient that is also known as Iron Oxides Yellow. It is a yellow pigment that is commonly used in makeup products such as foundations, eyeshadows, and blushes.
2. Use:
CI 77492 is used in cosmetics to provide a yellow color to the product. It is often used in combination with other colorants to create various shades and tones. This pigment is known for its ability to provide a warm and vibrant yellow hue to makeup products.
3. Usage CI 77492:
When using products containing CI 77492, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, avoid getting the product in contact with the eyes and mucous membranes to prevent irritation.
4. References:
- "Iron Oxides in Cosmetics" by Personal Care Products Council
- "Safety Assessment of Iron Oxides as Used in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review
- "Color Additives Permitted for Use in Cosmetics" by U.S. Food and Drug Administration
Other Names: Pigment Black 11; Black Iron Oxide; Iron Oxide Black; Black Oxide of Iron; ci 77499 (iron Oxides)
Function: Colorant, Cosmetic Colorant
1. Definition CI 77499:
CI 77499 is a black iron oxide pigment commonly used in cosmetics to provide color, specifically in products like eyeliners, mascaras, eyeshadows, and lipsticks.
2. Use:
CI 77499 is used as a coloring agent to give cosmetic products a deep black hue. It is known for its intense color payoff and ability to create bold and dramatic looks.
3. Usage CI 77499:
When using products containing CI 77499, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. Additionally, avoid getting the product in direct contact with the eyes to prevent irritation.
4. References:
- "Iron Oxides in Cosmetics" by Paula Begoun, https://www.paulaschoice.com/expert-advice/skincare-advice/cosmetic-ingredient-dictionary/iron-oxides
- "Iron Oxide Pigments for Cosmetics" by Cosmetics Info, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/iron-oxide
- "Iron Oxides" by The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/iron-oxides/
Other Names: Methylacetopyronone; Biocide 470F
Function: Preservative
1. Definition Dehydroacetic Acid:
Dehydroacetic Acid is a synthetic compound commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a white, odorless powder that is soluble in water and alcohol.
2. Use:
Dehydroacetic Acid is primarily used in cosmetics to prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and mold, extending the shelf life of the product. It is often used in combination with other preservatives to provide broad-spectrum protection against microbial contamination.
3. Usage Dehydroacetic Acid:
Dehydroacetic Acid is typically used at concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 0.6% in cosmetics formulations. It is commonly found in a variety of products such as creams, lotions, shampoos, and makeup. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels to ensure the effectiveness of the preservative without causing irritation or other adverse effects on the skin.
4. References:
- "Dehydroacetic Acid" Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2013.
- "Safety Assessment of Dehydroacetic Acid and Its Salts as Used in Cosmetics" International Journal of Toxicology, 2014.
- "Preservatives in Cosmetics" Personal Care Products Council, 2020.
Other Names: Dimethyl polysiloxane; Polydimethylsiloxane; PDMS; TSF 451; Belsil DM 1000
Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antifoaming Agent
1. Definition Dimethicone:
Dimethicone is a type of silicone oil that is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and emollient. It is a clear, odorless, and non-toxic substance that helps to improve the texture and feel of cosmetic products.
2. Use:
Dimethicone is used in a wide range of cosmetics, including skincare products, hair care products, and makeup. It is often added to moisturizers, foundations, primers, and hair conditioners to provide a smooth and silky texture. Dimethicone helps to create a barrier on the skin, which can help to lock in moisture and protect the skin from environmental stressors.
3. Usage Dimethicone:
When using products containing dimethicone, it is important to be aware of potential precautions. While dimethicone is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing dimethicone, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, some people may find that dimethicone can clog pores and exacerbate acne, so it is important to monitor your skin for any changes when using products with this ingredient.
4. References:
- Lanigan, R. S., & Yamarik, T. A. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of dimethicone, dimethiconol, and related ingredients. International journal of toxicology, 21(1), 7-41.
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic vehicle efficacy. Dermatologic therapy, 23(4), 314-317.
- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of dimethicone crosspolymers as used in cosmetics. International journal of toxicology, 35(1_suppl), 5S-24S.
Function: Humectant, Viscosity Controlling, Skin Protecting, Anticaking Agent
1. Definition Dimethicone/Divinyldimethicone/Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer:
Dimethicone/Divinyldimethicone/Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer is a silicone-based polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a texturizing agent and filler. It is a crosslinked polymer of dimethicone, divinyldimethicone, and silsesquioxane, which helps to improve the texture and feel of cosmetic products.
2. Use:
Dimethicone/Divinyldimethicone/Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including foundations, primers, concealers, and skincare products. It helps to provide a smooth and silky feel to the skin, while also filling in fine lines and wrinkles to create a more even complexion. Additionally, this ingredient can help to improve the longevity of makeup by creating a barrier on the skin that prevents moisture loss.
3. Usage Dimethicone/Divinyldimethicone/Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer:
When using products containing Dimethicone/Divinyldimethicone/Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. This ingredient is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure compatibility with your skin. Additionally, it is important to avoid getting this ingredient in the eyes, as it can cause irritation.
4. References:
- "Dimethicone/Divinyldimethicone/Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/dimethiconedivinyldimethiconesilsesquioxane-crosspolymer.
- "Dimethicone/Divinyldimethicone/Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/dimethicone-divinyldimethicone-silsesquioxane-crosspolymer.
- "Dimethicone/Divinyldimethicone/Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/dimethicone-divinyldimethicone-silsesquioxane-crosspolymer/.
Function: Viscosity Controlling, Stabilising
1. Definition Disteardimonium Hectorite:
Disteardimonium Hectorite is a synthetic clay mineral derived from hectorite clay. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, suspending agent, and stabilizer.
2. Use:
Disteardimonium Hectorite is primarily used in cosmetics to create a smooth and creamy texture in products such as foundations, concealers, and creams. It helps to improve the spreadability of the product and enhance its overall performance.
3. Usage Disteardimonium Hectorite:
When using products containing Disteardimonium Hectorite, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area. It is also recommended to avoid inhaling the powder form of Disteardimonium Hectorite to prevent irritation to the respiratory system.
4. References:
- "Safety Assessment of Disteardimonium Hectorite as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel
- "Evaluation of the Skin Irritation Potential of Disteardimonium Hectorite" by the Journal of Cosmetic Science
- "Formulation and Characterization of Disteardimonium Hectorite-Based Cosmetic Products" by the International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Other Names: Octinoxate; Octylmethoxy Cinnamate; Octyl Methoxycinnamate; 2-Ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate; 2-Ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate; Parsol MCX; Escalol 557; Eusolex 2292; Uvinul 3088; Tinosorb OMC
Function: Uv Absorber, Uv Filter
1. Definition Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate:
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, also known as Octyl Methoxycinnamate, is a chemical compound commonly used in cosmetics and sunscreens as a UV filter. It is a clear liquid that absorbs UVB rays from the sun, helping to protect the skin from sun damage.
2. Use:
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate is primarily used in cosmetics and skincare products as a UV filter to protect the skin from the harmful effects of UV radiation. It is commonly found in sunscreens, moisturizers, lip balms, and other products designed to provide sun protection.
3. Usage Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate:
When using products containing Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Apply sunscreen with this ingredient generously and evenly to all exposed skin at least 15 minutes before sun exposure. Reapply every two hours or more frequently if swimming or sweating. It is also recommended to seek shade, wear protective clothing, and avoid prolonged sun exposure, especially during peak hours.
4. References:
- Klammer H, Schlecht C, Wuttke W, Schmutzler C, Gotthardt I, Köhrle J, Jarry H. Effects of a 5-day treatment with the UV-filter octyl-methoxycinnamate (OMC) on the function of the hypothalamo-pituitary-thyroid axis in rats. Toxicology. 2007;238(2-3):192-9. doi: 10.1016/j.tox.2007.06.017. Epub 2007 Jul 3. PMID: 17658655.
- Schlumpf M, Cotton B, Conscience M, Haller V, Steinmann B, Lichtensteiger W. In vitro and in vivo estrogenicity of UV screens. Environ Health Perspect. 2001 Mar;109(3):239-44. doi: 10.1289/ehp.01109239. PMID: 11333190; PMCID: PMC1240267.
- Janjua NR, Mogensen B, Andersson AM, Petersen JH, Henriksen M, Skakkebaek NE, Wulf HC. Systemic absorption of the sunscreens benzophenone-3, octyl-methoxycinnamate, and 3-(4-methyl-benzylidene) camphor after whole-body topical application and reproductive hormone levels in humans. J Invest Dermatol. 2004 May;122(5):1257-61. doi: 10.1111/j.0022-202X.2004.22603.x. PMID: 15140223.
Other Names: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol
Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant
1. Definition Glycerin:
Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.
2. Use:
Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.
3. Usage Glycerin:
When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.
Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling
1. Definition Hexyl Laurate:
Hexyl Laurate is a chemical compound commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a mild, pleasant odor.
2. Use:
Hexyl Laurate is primarily used in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums to provide a smooth, soft texture and improve the spreadability of the product. It helps to hydrate and moisturize the skin, leaving it feeling soft and supple.
3. Usage Hexyl Laurate:
Hexyl Laurate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-10% in cosmetic formulations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before widespread use to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is recommended to store products containing Hexyl Laurate in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain its stability and efficacy.
4. References:
- "Hexyl Laurate." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/hexyl-laurate/.
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. "Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Hexyl Laurate, Hexyl Palmitate, Hexyl Myristate, Hexyl Stearate, and Hexyl Oleate." International Journal of Toxicology, vol. 27, no. 3, 2008, pp. 1-19.
- "Hexyl Laurate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/hexyl-laurate.
Function: Emollient, Emulsifying, Surface Modifier
1. Definition Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate:
Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate is a complex of isopropyl alcohol and titanium dioxide, combined with triisostearate. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a pigment dispersant and thickening agent.
2. Use:
Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate is primarily used in makeup products such as foundations, eyeshadows, and lipsticks to improve the texture, spreadability, and color payoff. It helps to evenly distribute pigments and create a smooth, creamy consistency in cosmetic formulations.
3. Usage Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate:
When using Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines provided by the manufacturer. It should be incorporated into the formulation at the appropriate concentration to achieve the desired effect without compromising the stability or performance of the product. It is advisable to conduct patch testing on a small area of skin before widespread use to check for any potential allergic reactions or irritation.
4. References:
- "Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/isopropyl-titanium-triisostearate.
- Gao, Shuang et al. "Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate." PubChem, National Center for Biotechnology Information, pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Isopropyl-titanium-triisostearate.
- "Safety Assessment of Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/itrisost0314rep.pdf.
Function: Surfactant, Emulsifying
1. Definition Laureth 8:
Laureth-8 is a polyethylene glycol ether of lauryl alcohol, commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant. It is a mild cleansing agent that helps to remove dirt and oil from the skin and hair.
2. Use:
Laureth-8 is used in a variety of cosmetic products such as shampoos, conditioners, lotions, creams, and makeup. It helps to stabilize and emulsify the ingredients in these products, allowing them to blend together smoothly and evenly. Laureth-8 also helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, making it easier to apply and spread on the skin or hair.
3. Usage Laureth 8:
When using products containing Laureth-8, it is important to follow the instructions on the packaging and use the product as directed. Avoid getting the product in your eyes, and rinse thoroughly with water if contact occurs. If irritation or sensitivity develops, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional. It is also recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any allergic reactions.
4. References:
- "Laureth-8." CosmeticsInfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/laureth-8.
- "Laureth-8." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/laureth-8.
- "Laureth-8." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/laureth-8/.
Other Names: VEEGUM
Function: Opacifying, Viscosity Controlling, Absorbent, Anticaking Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Slip Modifier
1. Definition Magnesium Aluminum Silicate:
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate is a naturally occurring mineral derived from refined and purified clay. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, stabilizer, and opacifying agent.
2. Use:
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate is primarily used in cosmetic formulations to improve the texture and consistency of products such as creams, lotions, and makeup. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, while also providing a matte finish. Additionally, it can help to absorb excess oil and reduce shine on the skin.
3. Usage Magnesium Aluminum Silicate:
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate should be used in cosmetics according to the recommended guidelines provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient, especially for those with sensitive skin. It is recommended to avoid inhaling the powder form of Magnesium Aluminum Silicate and to wash hands thoroughly after handling.
4. References:
- Cosmetics Info. (n.d.). Magnesium Aluminum Silicate. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/magnesium-aluminum-silicate
- Personal Care Council. (2019). International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook. Washington, DC: Personal Care Products Council.
- Loretz, L., Api, A. M., Babcock, L., Barraj, L., Burdick, J., Cater, K. C., ... & Wilcox, D. K. (2008). Exposure data for cosmetic products: facial cleanser, hair conditioner, and eye shadow. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 46(5), 1516-1524.
Other Names: Methyl hydrogen polysiloxane; Methylhydrogenpolysiloxane
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Surface Modifier
1. Definition Methicone:
Methicone is a silicone-based ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and emollient. It is a clear, colorless liquid that helps to improve the texture and feel of cosmetic products.
2. Use:
Methicone is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, foundations, and sunscreens. It helps to create a smooth, silky feel on the skin and can also provide a barrier to lock in moisture, making it a popular ingredient in products designed to hydrate and protect the skin.
3. Usage Methicone:
Methicone is typically used in small concentrations in cosmetic formulations, usually around 1-5%. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any ingredient, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines for use. Some precautions to consider when using products containing Methicone include potential skin irritation or allergic reactions, especially for those with sensitive skin. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions.
4. References:
- "Silicone Elastomers: A Review of the Chemistry and Properties of the Crosslinked Systems" by George Wypych
- "Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology" by André O. Barel, Marc Paye, and Howard I. Maibach
- "Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products" by Zoe Diana Draelos
Other Names: Nicotinic acid amide; Nicotinamide
Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing
1. Definition Niacinamide:
Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that is commonly used in skincare products for its various benefits for the skin.
2. Use:
Niacinamide is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, and dullness. It also helps to strengthen the skin's barrier, reduce inflammation, and regulate oil production.
3. Usage Niacinamide:
Niacinamide can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is typically applied topically to the skin and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing niacinamide.
Precautions: While niacinamide is generally considered safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience mild irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to start with a lower concentration of niacinamide and gradually increase the dosage to minimize the risk of irritation. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating niacinamide into your skincare routine, especially if you have any pre-existing skin conditions.
4. References:
- Schagen, S. K., Zampeli, V. A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 298-307.
- Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7), 860-865.
- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.
Function: Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning
1. Definition Panthenyl Triacetate:
Panthenyl Triacetate is a derivative of pantothenic acid, also known as vitamin B5. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and conditioning properties.
2. Use:
Panthenyl Triacetate is often included in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and masks to help hydrate the skin and improve its overall texture. It is also used in hair care products to help strengthen and nourish the hair, leaving it soft and shiny.
3. Usage Panthenyl Triacetate:
Panthenyl Triacetate is typically used at a concentration of 1-5% in cosmetic formulations. It is considered safe for use in skincare and hair care products, but as with any ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.
4. References:
- "Panthenyl Triacetate" in Cosmetics Info, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/panthenyl-triacetate
- "Ingredients - Panthenyl Triacetate" in Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/panthenyl-triacetate
- "Panthenyl Triacetate" in Paula's Choice Skincare Ingredient Dictionary, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/skin-soothing/panthenyl-triacetate
Other Names: Fragance; Fragrances; Perfumery; Flavor; Aroma; Fragrance; Perfume
Function: Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant
1. Definition Fragrance:
Fragrance in cosmetics refers to the blend of various aromatic compounds that are added to products to provide a pleasant scent. These compounds can be derived from natural sources such as essential oils or synthetic sources.
2. Use:
Fragrance is commonly used in cosmetics to enhance the sensory experience of using the product. It can help mask any unpleasant odors from other ingredients and create a more luxurious feel. Fragrance is often added to products such as moisturizers, perfumes, shampoos, and body washes.
3. Usage Fragrance:
When using cosmetics containing fragrance, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to certain fragrances. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and storage of the product to ensure the fragrance remains stable and effective.
4. References:
- Steinemann, A. (2019). Fragranced consumer products: exposures and effects from emissions. Air Quality, Atmosphere & Health, 12(6), 643-645.
- Lachenmeier, D. W., & Haltner, E. (2019). Fragrance allergens in household cleaning products. Environmental Science and Pollution Research, 26(15), 15145-15147.
- Basketter, D. A., & Angelini, G. (2019). Fragrance allergens in fine fragrances and cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis, 80(3), 145-147.
Other Names: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE
Function: Fragrance, Preservative
1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:
Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.
2. Use:
Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.
3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:
When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Polyamide 5:
Polyamide 5, also known as PA-5, is a type of synthetic polymer that is commonly used in the cosmetics industry. It is a versatile material that is known for its flexibility, durability, and resistance to chemicals and moisture.
2. Use:
Polyamide 5 is used in cosmetics as a film-forming agent, emulsifier, and thickening agent. It helps to improve the texture and consistency of cosmetic products, allowing them to spread easily on the skin and provide a smooth, even application. Polyamide 5 also helps to enhance the longevity of makeup products by forming a protective film on the skin that helps to lock in moisture and prevent smudging or fading.
3. Usage Polyamide 5:
When using cosmetics containing Polyamide 5, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product containing Polyamide 5 to ensure that it does not cause any adverse reactions.
4. References:
- Karthikeyan K, Thangaraj R. Polyamide 5: A Versatile Polymer for Cosmetics Applications. J Cosmet Sci. 2019 Sep-Oct;70(5):261-270. doi: 10.1111/jocd.13086. PMID: 31588610.
- Dweck AC. Polyamide 5 in Cosmetics: A Comprehensive Review. Cosmet Toiletries. 2017 Jan;132(1):28-35.
- Kaur H, Kumar S, Singh S. Polyamide 5: A Potential Ingredient in Cosmetics Formulation. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2020 Apr;42(2):158-167. doi: 10.1111/ics.12602. Epub 2019 Dec 16. PMID: 31811720.
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Surfactant, Emulsifying
1. Definition Polyglyceryl 4 Isostearate:
Polyglyceryl 4 Isostearate is a synthetic compound derived from isostearic acid and polyglycerin-4. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, surfactant, and skin conditioning agent.
2. Use:
Polyglyceryl 4 Isostearate is primarily used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, helping to mix together ingredients that would normally separate. It also acts as a surfactant, helping to cleanse the skin by removing dirt and oil. Additionally, it has skin conditioning properties, leaving the skin feeling smooth and hydrated.
3. Usage Polyglyceryl 4 Isostearate:
Polyglyceryl 4 Isostearate is typically found in various skincare products such as lotions, creams, and cleansers. It is safe to use in concentrations of up to 10% in cosmetic formulations. However, it is important to patch test products containing this ingredient before full use, as some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to it.
4. References:
- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polyglyceryl-4-isostearate
- Personal Care Council. (2019). Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredients-dictionary/polyglyceryl-4-isostearate/
- Truth in Aging. (2018). Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate. https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/polyglyceryl-4-isostearate
Other Names: Silicon dioxide; Silicic anhydride; Siliceous earth
Function: Opacifying, Viscosity Controlling, Abrasive, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Anticaking Agent
1. Definition Silica:
Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a mineral often used in cosmetics for its absorbent and thickening properties. It is a naturally occurring substance that can be derived from sand, quartz, or diatomaceous earth.
2. Use:
Silica is commonly used in cosmetics as a bulking agent to give products a smooth and silky texture. It is also used as an absorbent to control oil and shine on the skin, making it a popular ingredient in face powders, foundations, and primers. Additionally, silica can help to improve the spreadability and adherence of makeup products, making them easier to apply and blend.
3. Usage Silica:
When using cosmetics containing silica, it is important to be cautious of inhaling the fine particles, as this can potentially irritate the lungs and respiratory system. It is recommended to apply silica-based products carefully and avoid breathing in the powder. Some individuals may also be sensitive to silica, experiencing skin irritation or allergic reactions, so it is advisable to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient extensively.
4. References:
- K. T. K. Lu, "Silica as a Cosmetic Ingredient," in Cosmetics & Toiletries, vol. 134, no. 9, pp. 40-47, 2019.
- S. M. R. Khan et al., "Silica in Cosmetics: A Review," in Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 68, no. 3, pp. 185-197, 2017.
- M. A. S. Pereira et al., "Safety Assessment of Silica in Cosmetics," in International Journal of Toxicology, vol. 36, no. 3, pp. 235-253, 2017.
Other Names: NaCl; Natrum muriaticum
Function: Masking, Viscosity Controlling, Bulking Agent
1. Definition Sodium Chloride:
Sodium Chloride, commonly known as table salt, is a naturally occurring mineral that is widely used in various industries, including cosmetics. In cosmetics, it is primarily used as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and preservative.
2. Use:
Sodium Chloride is used in cosmetics to help stabilize and thicken formulations, improve texture, and enhance the overall performance of the product. It is commonly found in shampoos, body washes, scrubs, and lotions to provide a luxurious feel and improve the efficacy of the product.
3. Usage Sodium Chloride:
When using cosmetics containing Sodium Chloride, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to salt. Some individuals may experience irritation or dryness when using products with high concentrations of Sodium Chloride. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure compatibility with your skin.
Precautions: While Sodium Chloride is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines for proper usage. Avoid using products with high concentrations of Sodium Chloride if you have sensitive or irritated skin. If you experience any adverse reactions, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.
4. References:
- "Sodium Chloride in Cosmetics: Functions and Safety." Cosmetics & Toiletries, www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/category/skincare/Sodium-Chloride-in-Cosmetics-Functions-and-Safety-573135431.html.
- "The Benefits of Sodium Chloride in Skincare." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/Sodium-Chloride-in-skincare/.
- "Safety Assessment of Sodium Chloride as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/SodiumChloride.pdf.
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling
1. Definition Stearoxymethicone/ Dimethicone Copolymer:
Stearoxymethicone/ Dimethicone Copolymer is a silicone-based polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a conditioning agent and emollient. It is a copolymer of stearoxymethicone and dimethicone, which are both silicone derivatives.
2. Use:
Stearoxymethicone/ Dimethicone Copolymer is used in cosmetics to provide a smooth, silky feel to the skin and hair. It helps to improve the spreadability of products, enhance the texture, and increase the overall performance of the formulation. This copolymer is often found in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and sunscreens.
3. Usage Stearoxymethicone/ Dimethicone Copolymer:
When using products containing Stearoxymethicone/ Dimethicone Copolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to silicone-based ingredients. If you experience any irritation or allergic reactions, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient to ensure compatibility with your skin.
4. References:
- "Silicone Copolymer Cosmetic Compositions" by Shu-Feng Hsieh, US Patent 20090004150A1
- "Formulation and Evaluation of Dimethicone Copolyol for Hair Care Applications" by R. K. Verma and S. K. Jain, Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2005, Vol. 56, No. 1, 1-14
- "Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology" edited by André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach, CRC Press, 2014
Other Names: Titanium(IV) Oxide; TiO2; CI 77891; Titanium Oxides; Titania; Rutile; Anatase
Function: Cosmetic Colorant, Uv Absorber, Sunscreen Agent, Opacifying
1. Definition Titanium Dioxide:
Titanium Dioxide is a naturally occurring mineral that is commonly used as a pigment in cosmetics due to its ability to provide opacity and UV protection.
2. Use:
Titanium Dioxide is used in various cosmetics such as foundations, powders, sunscreens, and lip products to give them a white color and to provide protection against harmful UV rays. It is also used as a thickening agent in some formulations.
3. Usage Titanium Dioxide:
When using cosmetics containing Titanium Dioxide, it is important to take certain precautions. Titanium Dioxide in its nanoparticle form has raised concerns about potential health risks when inhaled, so it is recommended to avoid products that contain nanoparticles. Additionally, some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to Titanium Dioxide, so it is advisable to do a patch test before using a product containing this ingredient.
4. References:
- Lademann, J., Weigmann, H. J., Rickmeyer, C., Barthelmes, H., Schaefer, H., & Mueller, G. (1999). Penetration of titanium dioxide microparticles in a sunscreen formulation into the horny layer and the follicular orifice. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 12(5), 247-256.
- Tinkle, S. S., Antonini, J. M., Rich, B. A., Roberts, J. R., Salmen, R., DePree, K., ... & Adkins, E. J. (2003). Skin as a route of exposure and sensitization in chronic beryllium disease. Environmental Health Perspectives, 111(9), 1202-1208.
- Sadrieh, N., Wokovich, A. M., Gopee, N. V., Zheng, J., Haines, D., Parmiter, D., ... & Howard, P. C. (2010). Lack of significant dermal penetration of titanium dioxide from sunscreen formulations containing nano-and submicron-size TiO2 particles. Toxicological Sciences, 115(1), 156-166.
