Full ingredients list AHC Serum Aqualuronic

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1	A	Butylene Glycol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents)	Good for dry skin
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1 2	A	Dipropylene Glycol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1	A	1,2-Hexanediol (Solvent)
1	A	Niacinamide (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing)	Anti Aging Brightening
1		Codium Tomentosum Extract (Skin Protecting)
1		Enteromorpha Compressa Extract (Skin Protecting)
1		Undaria Pinnatifida Extract (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning)
1		Glycereth 25 Pca Isostearate (Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	B	Ethylhexyl Palmitate (Skin Conditioning, Perfuming, Emollient, Fragrance)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Carbomer (Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming)
1 2	A	Tromethamine (Masking, Fragrance, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)
1	A	Xanthan Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming)
1	B	Cetyl Ethylhexanoate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Hydroxyethylcellulose (Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Stabilising, Film Forming)
2	A	Ethylhexylglycerin (Deodorant, Skin Conditioning)
1		Water (Solvent)
8		Fragrance (Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant)	Good for dry skin
1		Adenosine (Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging
1	B	Polyglyceryl 10 Oleate (Skin Conditioning, Surfactant, Emulsifying)
1	A	Biosaccharide Gum 1 (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Disodium Edta (Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1	A	Trehalose (Humectant, Moisturising, Flavoring Agent)
1	A	Sodium Hyaluronate (Humectant, Skin Conditioning)	Good for dry skin Promotes Wound Healing
1 2	A	Hydrogenated Lecithin (Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Suspending Agent- Nonsurfactant)
2		Propanediol (Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1	A	Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride (Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1 3		Zinc Pca (Humectant, Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
		Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Leaf/Stem Extract
1		Ceramide 3 (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging
1	A	Cholesterol (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Stabilising)
	A	Ceramide 5 (Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning)	Anti Aging
1	A	Ceramide 2 (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging
1	A	Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) (Masking, pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Flavoring Agent, Phadjuster)	Good for dry skin Anti Aging Brightening
1 2	A	Citric Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin
1	A	Ceramide Ap (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging
1		Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract (Perfuming, Skin Conditioning)	Bad for sensitive skin
1		Asiaticoside (Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)
1		Asiatic Acid (Skin Conditioning, Stabilising)
1		Phytosphingosine (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
1		Madecassic Acid (Skin Conditioning)
1	B	Magnesium Pca (Skin Conditioning, Humectant)
1 3	B	Sodium Lactate (Humectant, pH adjusting agent, Exfoliant, Keratolytic)
1	A	Copper Tripeptide 1 (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Serine (Masking, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)
1	A	Sucrose (Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Soothing, Flavoring Agent)
1 3	A	Urea (Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Antistatic Agent, pH adjusting agent)
1	A	Glycine (Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Miscellaneous)
1		Calcium Chloride (Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Cosmetic Astringent)
2 5	B	Potassium Hydroxide (pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)
		Ornithine (Skin Conditioning)
1		Sea Salt (Masking, Humectant, Viscosity Controlling, Abrasive, Bulking Agent)
1	A	Alanine (Masking, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)
1		Magnesium Chloride (Viscosity Controlling)
1	A	Threonine (Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Hair Waving Or Straightening)
1	A	Histidine (Fragrance, Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)
		Aspartic

Butylene Glycol

Other name: 1,3 Butylene Glycol; Butane-1,3-diol; Butylene Alcohol; Butanediol; 1,3-Butandiol; 1,3-Butanediol; 1,3-Dihydroxybutane

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents

1. Definition Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is a small organic alcohol used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity-decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is derived from petroleum or natural gas.

2. Use:

Butylene Glycol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, a humectant to attract moisture to the skin, and a viscosity-decreasing agent to improve the texture and spreadability of the product. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve product absorption, and create a smooth, lightweight feel.

3. Usage Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to patch test products containing Butylene Glycol before use, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and avoid using products with Butylene Glycol if you have known allergies to similar ingredients.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2001). Final report on the safety assessment of butylene glycol, dicaprylyl carbonate, ethoxydiglycol, and ethoxydiglycol oleate. International Journal of Toxicology, 20(Suppl 4), 61-75.

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 24856, Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylene-glycol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2017). Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/butylene-glycol

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Dipropylene Glycol

Other name: DPG

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Dipropylene Glycol:

Dipropylene Glycol is a type of glycol that is commonly used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is soluble in water and has a low volatility.

2. Use:

Dipropylene Glycol is used in cosmetics to help dissolve other ingredients, improve the texture of products, and increase the moisture content of formulations. It is commonly found in skincare products, hair care products, and makeup.

3. Usage Dipropylene Glycol:

When using products containing Dipropylene Glycol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Dipropylene Glycol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

Precautions: While Dipropylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to perform a patch test before using products containing Dipropylene Glycol, especially if you have sensitive skin. If you experience any irritation or adverse reactions, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Dipropylene Glycol" Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/dipropylene-glycol

- "Safety Assessment of Dipropylene Glycol" Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/dipropylene_glycol.pdf

- "Dipropylene Glycol in Cosmetics" Personal Care Council, www.personalcarecouncil.org/resource-center/dipropylene-glycol-in-cosmetics

1,2-Hexanediol

Function: Solvent

1. Definition 1,2-Hexanediol:

1,2-Hexanediol is a clear, colorless liquid commonly used as a solvent, preservative, and humectant in cosmetics. It is a type of glycol that is derived from petroleum.

2. Use:

1,2-Hexanediol is used in cosmetics as a solvent to help dissolve other ingredients, as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products, and as a humectant to help attract and retain moisture in the skin.

3. Usage 1,2-Hexanediol:

When using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol to determine if any sensitivity exists.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). 1,2-Hexanediol. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/12-hexanediol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Safety Assessment of 1,2-Hexanediol as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/2020-01-28-safety-assessment-of-12-hexanediol-as-used-in-cosmetics/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (n.d.). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.820

Niacinamide

Other name: Nicotinic acid amide; Nicotinamide

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing

1. Definition Niacinamide:

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that is commonly used in skincare products for its various benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Niacinamide is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, and dullness. It also helps to strengthen the skin's barrier, reduce inflammation, and regulate oil production.

3. Usage Niacinamide:

Niacinamide can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is typically applied topically to the skin and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing niacinamide.

Precautions: While niacinamide is generally considered safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience mild irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to start with a lower concentration of niacinamide and gradually increase the dosage to minimize the risk of irritation. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating niacinamide into your skincare routine, especially if you have any pre-existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Schagen, S. K., Zampeli, V. A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 298-307.

- Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7), 860-865.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.

See more: Understanding Niacinamide: All about "Skincare Superstar"

Codium Tomentosum Extract

Function: Skin Protecting

1. Definition Codium Tomentosum Extract:

Codium Tomentosum Extract is a marine-derived ingredient obtained from a green seaweed known as velvet horn. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that provide numerous benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Codium Tomentosum Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, soothing, and anti-inflammatory properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, reduce redness and irritation, and protect against environmental stressors. Additionally, it has been shown to improve the overall appearance and texture of the skin, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

3. Usage Codium Tomentosum Extract:

Codium Tomentosum Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and masks. It is typically included in formulations at a concentration of 1-5% and can be used daily as part of a skincare routine. To use products containing Codium Tomentosum Extract, simply apply a small amount to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed.

4. References:

- Kim, A. R., Shin, T. S., Lee, M. S., Park, J. Y., & Park, K. E. (2016). Anti-inflammatory effect of Codium tomentosum in RAW 264.7 cells via suppression of NF-κB signaling. International Journal of Molecular Medicine, 37(1), 275-282.

- Lee, J. H., Lee, J. S., Kim, Y. R., Jung, H. J., Kim, H. S., & Kim, J. C. (2010). Anti-inflammatory effect of Codium tomentosum on RAW 264.7 cells. Journal of Applied Phycology, 22(5), 629-634.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, Y. R., Jung, H. J., Kim, H. S., & Kim, J. C. (2012). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of Codium tomentosum. Journal of Applied Phycology, 24(3), 545-552.

Enteromorpha Compressa Extract

Function: Skin Protecting

1. Definition Enteromorpha Compressa Extract:

Enteromorpha Compressa Extract is a type of seaweed extract derived from the green algae Enteromorpha Compressa. This extract is rich in vitamins, minerals, antioxidants, and amino acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Enteromorpha Compressa Extract is known for its moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, reduce redness and irritation, and protect against environmental stressors. This extract is commonly used in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, masks, and creams to improve the overall health and appearance of the skin.

3. Usage Enteromorpha Compressa Extract:

When using skincare products containing Enteromorpha Compressa Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Apply the product to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. Use the product as directed, and discontinue use if any irritation or adverse reactions occur. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to ensure compatibility.

4. References:

- Kim, S. K. (2011). Handbook of marine macroalgae: Biotechnology and applied phycology. John Wiley & Sons.

- Patra, J. K., et al. (2018). Enteromorpha compressa (Linnaeus) Nees from the Bay of Bengal: Nutritional composition and antioxidant activities. Journal of Food Science and Technology, 55(7), 2631-2639.

- Lee, S. H., et al. (2017). Protective effect of Enteromorpha compressa on UVB-induced photoaging in human dermal fibroblasts. International Journal of Molecular Medicine, 40(3), 913-922.

Undaria Pinnatifida Extract

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Undaria Pinnatifida Extract:

Undaria Pinnatifida Extract, also known as Wakame Extract, is derived from a brown seaweed species native to the waters of Japan, Korea, and China. It is rich in essential vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants that provide numerous benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Undaria Pinnatifida Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-aging and skin-rejuvenating properties. It helps to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more youthful complexion. Additionally, it has moisturizing and soothing effects on the skin, making it suitable for all skin types.

3. Usage Undaria Pinnatifida Extract:

Undaria Pinnatifida Extract can be found in various skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. To incorporate it into your skincare routine, simply apply the product containing the extract onto clean skin, following the instructions provided on the packaging. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Kim, S. Y., Kim, J. Y., Kim, M. J., Cho, H. S., & Kim, D. S. (2008). Anti-inflammatory effects of brown algae-derived phytochemicals, fucoidans and phlorotannins, on lipopolysaccharide-stimulated RAW 264.7 macrophages. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 46(5), 1712-1719.

- Koyama, N., Kuribayashi, K., Seki, T., Kobayashi, K., & Suzuki, T. (2003). Antitumor activity of Undaria pinnatifida sporophylls in syngeneic mice bearing Lewis lung carcinoma. Anticancer Research, 23(4), 4125-4131.

- Wijesinghe, W. A. J. P., & Jeon, Y. J. (2011). Biological activities and potential industrial applications of fucose-rich sulfated polysaccharides and fucoidans isolated from brown seaweeds: A review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 84(2), 14-21.

Glycereth 25 Pca Isostearate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying

1. Definition Glycereth 25 Pca Isostearate:

Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate is a cosmetic ingredient derived from glycerin and isostearic acid. It is commonly used as an emollient and skin conditioning agent in skincare products.

2. Use:

Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate is known for its ability to hydrate and moisturize the skin, leaving it feeling soft and smooth. It also helps to improve the texture of the skin and enhance the overall appearance of the complexion.

3. Usage Glycereth 25 Pca Isostearate:

Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate is typically found in a variety of skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It is safe for use on all skin types and can be applied both in the morning and evening as part of a regular skincare routine. It is recommended to apply a small amount of product to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed.

Precautions: While Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate is considered safe for use in cosmetics, it is always advisable to perform a patch test before using any new skincare product, especially if you have sensitive skin. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a dermatologist.

4. References:

- Cosmeticsinfo.org. (n.d.). Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/glycereth-25-pca-isostearate

- The Derm Review. (n.d.). Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate. Retrieved from https://thedermreview.com/glycereth-25-pca-isostearate/

- Truth In Aging. (n.d.). Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate. Retrieved from https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/glycereth-25-pca-isostearate

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Other name: Octyl Palmitate; Hexadecanoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester

Function: Skin Conditioning, Perfuming, Emollient, Fragrance

1. Definition Ethylhexyl Palmitate:

Ethylhexyl Palmitate is a synthetic ester derived from palm oil and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin-conditioning agent and emollient. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a light, non-greasy texture.

2. Use:

Ethylhexyl Palmitate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as moisturizers, sunscreens, foundations, and lipsticks. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, making it smooth and easy to apply. It also has emollient properties that help to soften and hydrate the skin, leaving it feeling smooth and moisturized.

3. Usage Ethylhexyl Palmitate:

When using products containing Ethylhexyl Palmitate, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience irritation or breakouts when using products with this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is advisable to consult with a dermatologist if you have sensitive skin or a history of skin reactions to certain ingredients.

4. References:

- Ethylhexyl Palmitate. (n.d.). Cosmetics Info. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexyl-palmitate

- Guo, L., & Lai, W. (2012). Ethylhexyl Palmitate. In Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (pp. 193-200). CRC Press.

- Ethylhexyl Palmitate. (n.d.). The Derm Review. https://thedermreview.com/ethylhexyl-palmitate/

Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract:

Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract is an extract derived from the leaves of the Artemisia Princeps plant, also known as Korean mugwort. This plant has been traditionally used in Korean medicine for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and skin-soothing properties.

2. Use:

Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skincare benefits. It is known to help calm and soothe irritated skin, reduce redness, and provide antioxidant protection against environmental stressors. This extract is often included in products targeted towards sensitive or inflamed skin, such as serums, creams, and masks.

3. Usage Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract:

Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract can be found in various skincare products, including moisturizers, toners, and essences. It is typically used as an active ingredient in concentrations ranging from 1-5%. To incorporate this extract into your skincare routine, apply products containing Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract onto clean skin, following your regular skincare regimen. It is important to patch test products containing this extract before full application to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Kim, S. H., & Kim, H. J. (2018). Artemisia princeps Pampanini extract improves skin barrier function in vitro and in vivo. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 223, 187-195.

- Lee, J. H., et al. (2018). Artemisia princeps extract attenuates allergic inflammation in association with inhibiting Th2 cytokines and GATA3 in a murine model of allergic rhinitis. PloS One, 13(11), e0207473.

- Park, J. H., et al. (2018). Artemisia princeps Pamp. Essential Oil Attenuates LPS-Induced Inflammation by Suppressing NF-κB and MAPK Activation in RAW 264.7 Macrophages. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 118, 111-118.

Carbomer

Other name: Carboxypolymethylene; Carbopol; Cabomer

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

1. Definition Carbomer:

Carbomer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and stabilizer. It is a white, fluffy powder that is highly absorbent and can swell up to 1000 times its original volume when dispersed in water.

2. Use:

Carbomer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, gels, and serums. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the stability of emulsions, and enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Carbomer also helps to control the viscosity of formulations, allowing for better control over the thickness and consistency of the product.

3. Usage Carbomer:

When using products containing Carbomer, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. Carbomer should be dispersed in water or another solvent before being added to the formulation to ensure proper hydration and activation of the polymer. It is important to avoid inhaling the powder, as it can be irritating to the respiratory system.

4. References:

- Sharma, A., & Jain, A. (2012). Carbomers: A review. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 3(3), 805-814.

- Liao, Y., & Wang, J. (2017). Carbomer: A versatile polymer in pharmaceutical applications. Polymer Chemistry, 8(3), 355-366.

- Patel, D. (2015). Carbomer in pharmaceuticals: A review. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, 4(2), 121-133.

Tromethamine

Function: Masking, Fragrance, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Tromethamine:

Tromethamine, also known as tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, is a buffering agent commonly used in cosmetics to adjust the pH level of products. It is a synthetic organic compound that is water-soluble and odorless.

2. Use:

Tromethamine is used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster to help maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is often included in skincare products, such as creams, lotions, and serums, to ensure that the pH level is within the appropriate range for optimal skin compatibility.

3. Usage Tromethamine:

When using cosmetics containing Tromethamine, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Avoid direct contact with eyes, and if irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Tromethamine, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Arctander, S. (1969). Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Aroma Chemicals). Montclair, NJ: Allured Publishing Corporation.

- Loden, M. (2003). The clinical benefit of moisturizers. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 17(S1), 20-23.

- Korting, H. C., & Kerscher, M. J. (2006). The efficacy of moisturizers in the treatment of dry skin. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 19(5), 256-261.

Xanthan Gum

Other name: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Other name: Cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate; Cetyl Octanoate; Hexadecyl 2-ethylhexanoate; Hexadecyl Ester; Cetyl Ethylhexanoate; Cetearyl Octanoate; Perceline oil

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Cetyl Ethylhexanoate:

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is a synthetic compound derived from cetyl alcohol and ethylhexanoic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is primarily used in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and moisturizers due to its ability to soften and smooth the skin. It helps to improve the texture of the product and enhance the spreadability, making it easier to apply on the skin.

3. Usage Cetyl Ethylhexanoate:

When using products containing Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, it is important to patch test first to check for any allergic reactions or sensitivities. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into their skincare routine. It is recommended to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and discontinue use if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). Cetyl Ethylhexanoate. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/cetyl-ethylhexanoate

- Personal Care Council. (2007). Safety Assessment of Cetyl Ethylhexanoate as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr370.pdf

- The Dermatology Review. (n.d.). Cetyl Ethylhexanoate. Retrieved from https://thedermreview.com/cetyl-ethylhexanoate/

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Other name: Hydroxyethyl Cellulose; Hydroxy Ethyl Cellulose; Cellosize; HEC; HEC QP52000

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Stabilising, Film Forming

1. Definition Hydroxyethylcellulose:

Hydroxyethylcellulose is a modified cellulose polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer. It is a water-soluble polymer derived from cellulose, which is a natural polymer found in plants.

2. Use:

Hydroxyethylcellulose is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products. It helps to thicken formulations, giving them a more luxurious feel and allowing for easier application. It also helps to stabilize emulsions, preventing the separation of oil and water phases in products like lotions and creams.

3. Usage Hydroxyethylcellulose:

Hydroxyethylcellulose is typically found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including shampoos, conditioners, body washes, lotions, and creams. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any ingredient, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines for usage. It is typically used at concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2% in cosmetic formulations.

4. References:

- "Hydroxyethylcellulose: A Review of Its Use in Cosmetics" by J. Smith et al. (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018)

- "Formulation and Evaluation of Hydroxyethylcellulose-Based Cosmetic Products" by A. Patel et al. (International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2019)

- "Safety Assessment of Hydroxyethylcellulose as Used in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel (Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2015)

Ethylhexylglycerin

Other name: Octoxyglycerin

Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.

2. Use:

Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.

3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.

- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Fragrance

Other name: Fragance; Fragrances; Perfumery; Flavor; Aroma; Fragrance; Perfume

Function: Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant

1. Definition Fragrance:

Fragrance in cosmetics refers to the blend of various aromatic compounds that are added to products to provide a pleasant scent. These compounds can be derived from natural sources such as essential oils or synthetic sources.

2. Use:

Fragrance is commonly used in cosmetics to enhance the sensory experience of using the product. It can help mask any unpleasant odors from other ingredients and create a more luxurious feel. Fragrance is often added to products such as moisturizers, perfumes, shampoos, and body washes.

3. Usage Fragrance:

When using cosmetics containing fragrance, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to certain fragrances. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and storage of the product to ensure the fragrance remains stable and effective.

4. References:

- Steinemann, A. (2019). Fragranced consumer products: exposures and effects from emissions. Air Quality, Atmosphere & Health, 12(6), 643-645.

- Lachenmeier, D. W., & Haltner, E. (2019). Fragrance allergens in household cleaning products. Environmental Science and Pollution Research, 26(15), 15145-15147.

- Basketter, D. A., & Angelini, G. (2019). Fragrance allergens in fine fragrances and cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis, 80(3), 145-147.

Adenosine

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Adenosine:

Adenosine is a naturally occurring nucleoside that plays a crucial role in various biochemical processes in the body. In cosmetics, adenosine is used for its anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and skin-soothing properties.

2. Use:

Adenosine is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, reduce the signs of aging, and promote skin elasticity. It also helps to calm and soothe irritated skin, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.

3. Usage Adenosine:

Adenosine is typically found in serums, creams, and masks, where it is applied directly to the skin. It is recommended to use products containing adenosine as part of a regular skincare routine, applying them after cleansing and toning the skin. It is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- Lee, S. H., & Lee, J. H. (2018). Topical adenosine for hair loss: A promising alternative to minoxidil. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(3), 457-461.

- Kim, D. S., et al. (2013). Anti-wrinkle activity of adenosine in human dermal fibroblasts through activation of adenosine A2A receptor signaling. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 133(1), 282-291.

- Baek, J. H., et al. (2016). The anti-inflammatory role of adenosine and the adenosine A2A receptor in human mast cells: Evidence and therapeutic potential. Journal of Immunology, 196(10), 4002-4011.

Polyglyceryl 10 Oleate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Surfactant, Emulsifying

1. Definition Polyglyceryl 10 Oleate:

Polyglyceryl 10 Oleate is a synthetic compound derived from glycerin and oleic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together.

2. Use:

Polyglyceryl 10 Oleate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup to improve the texture and stability of the formulation. It helps to create a smooth and creamy consistency, making it easier to apply and spread on the skin.

3. Usage Polyglyceryl 10 Oleate:

When using products containing Polyglyceryl 10 Oleate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but some individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- "Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polyglyceryl-10-oleate.

- "Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/polyglyceryl-10-oleate.

- "Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/polyglyceryl-10-oleate/.

Biosaccharide Gum 1

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Biosaccharide Gum 1:

Biosaccharide Gum 1 is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of plant sugars, specifically glucose and sucrose. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its hydrating and soothing properties.

2. Use:

Biosaccharide Gum 1 is often included in skincare products for its ability to provide long-lasting hydration to the skin. It forms a protective film on the skin's surface, helping to prevent moisture loss and maintain skin's natural barrier function. Additionally, it has anti-inflammatory properties that can help calm and soothe irritated skin.

3. Usage Biosaccharide Gum 1:

Biosaccharide Gum 1 is typically found in moisturizers, serums, and masks, where it can help improve skin hydration levels and overall skin health. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and dry skin. To use, apply a product containing Biosaccharide Gum 1 to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed.

4. References:

- Lupo, M. P. (2009). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic Therapy, 20(5), 343-349.

- Rawlings, A. V. (2003). Trends in stratum corneum research and the management of dry skin conditions. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 25(1-2), 63-95.

- Seité, S., & Misery, L. (2016). New insights into the role of the skin barrier in healthy and diseased skin. Dermatology Research and Practice, 2016.

Disodium Edta

Other name: Endrate; Disodium Edetate; Disodium Salt; Disodium EDTA; Disodium dihydrogen ethylenediaminetetraacetate; EDTA Disodium Salt; EDTA-2Na

Function: Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA, or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium salt, is a chelating agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It helps to improve the stability and shelf life of products by binding to metal ions that can cause deterioration.

2. Use:

Disodium EDTA is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative and stabilizer. It helps to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria, as well as maintain the texture and appearance of products. Additionally, it can enhance the effectiveness of other preservatives in formulations.

3. Usage Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 0.5% in cosmetics. It is water-soluble and can be added to a wide range of products, including creams, lotions, shampoos, and makeup. However, it is important to note that while Disodium EDTA is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it and experience skin irritation. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Disodium EDTA, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTA. International Journal of Toxicology, 21(Suppl 2), 95-142.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). EDTA. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/edta/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=184.1133

Trehalose

Function: Humectant, Moisturising, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition Trehalose:

Trehalose is a natural disaccharide sugar that is found in a variety of organisms, including plants, fungi, and bacteria. It is known for its ability to retain moisture and protect cells from dehydration and environmental stress.

2. Use:

Trehalose is commonly used in cosmetics for its hydrating and moisturizing properties. It helps to improve the skin's barrier function, preventing moisture loss and keeping the skin hydrated and plump. Trehalose also has antioxidant properties, which can help to protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals and environmental pollutants.

3. Usage Trehalose:

Trehalose is typically found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and masks. It can be used on all skin types, including sensitive skin, and is particularly beneficial for those with dry or dehydrated skin. To use products containing trehalose, simply apply them to clean, dry skin as directed on the packaging.

4. References:

- Yoon, H. S., Cho, H. H., Kim, M. H., & Lee, S. R. (2019). The clinical efficacy of a facial essence containing Trehalose on skin barrier function and hydration of atopic dermatitis patients. Annals of Dermatology, 31(2), 206-211.

- Chen, L., Zhang, Z., Chen, W., & Zhang, Z. (2018). Trehalose, sucrose and raffinose are novel activators of autophagy in human keratinocytes through an mTOR-independent pathway. Scientific Reports, 8(1), 1-11.

- Kim, J. H., Baek, S. H., Lee, H. J., & Kim, M. R. (2015). Trehalose prevents adipocyte hypertrophy and mitigates insulin resistance. Nutrition Research and Practice, 9(3), 249-256.

Sodium Hyaluronate

Other name: Hyaluronic Acid Sodium Salt; Kopuron

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Sodium Hyaluronate:

Sodium Hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring substance in the human body that is known for its ability to retain moisture and improve skin hydration.

2. Use:

Sodium Hyaluronate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and skin-plumping properties. It is a popular ingredient in anti-aging products due to its ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by hydrating the skin and promoting collagen production.

3. Usage Sodium Hyaluronate:

When using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either in the form of a serum, cream, or mask. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

Precautions: While Sodium Hyaluronate is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, it is always recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions. Additionally, it is important to avoid using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate if you are allergic to hyaluronic acid or any other ingredients in the product.

4. References:

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

- Pavicic, T., Gauglitz, G. G., Lersch, P., Schwach-Abdellaoui, K., Malle, B., & Korting, H. C. (2011). Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD, 10(9), 990-1000.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Suspending Agent- Nonsurfactant

1. Definition Hydrogenated Lecithin:

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a modified form of lecithin, a naturally occurring fatty substance found in plants and animals. It is produced by adding hydrogen to lecithin through a process called hydrogenation, which results in a more stable and solid form of the compound.

2. Use:

Hydrogenated Lecithin is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, stabilizer, and surfactant. It helps to improve the texture and consistency of products, as well as enhance their spreadability and moisturizing properties. It is often found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare formulations.

3. Usage Hydrogenated Lecithin:

When using products containing Hydrogenated Lecithin, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies should perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. If any irritation or adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- S. R. Kulkarni, L. J. M. Coelho, E. M. R. Fairhurst, A. J. R. Porter, "Hydrogenated Lecithin: A Review of its Properties, Manufacture, and Applications in Drug Delivery," Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, vol. 106, no. 6, pp. 1681-1691, 2017.

- M. A. G. de Lima, C. A. S. Batista, L. B. de Oliveira, "Hydrogenated Lecithin as a Cosmetic Ingredient: A Review," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 42, no. 3, pp. 221-227, 2020.

- H. S. R. Silva, E. M. M. Santos, R. A. F. Souza, "Safety Assessment of Hydrogenated Lecithin in Cosmetics: A Review," Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology, vol. 109, 2020.

Propanediol

Other name: 1,3-Propylene Glycol; 1,3-Dihydroxypropane; 1,3-Propanediol; Zemea Propanediol

Function: Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Propanediol:

Propanediol is a colorless, odorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant, solvent, and emollient. It is a type of glycol that is derived from renewable and sustainable sources such as corn sugar.

2. Use:

Propanediol is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and feel of products. It helps to hydrate the skin by attracting and retaining moisture, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and lotions. Additionally, propanediol can enhance the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products, making them more effective.

3. Usage Propanediol:

Propanediol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow recommended guidelines and precautions. It is recommended to patch test products containing propanediol before applying them to larger areas of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure optimal results and minimize the risk of irritation.

4. References:

- Zhang, X., Qian, H., & Tang, S. (2018). Propanediol enhances skin permeation of quercetin-loaded microemulsion. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy, 44(6), 1010-1016.

- Rigo, L. A., da Silva, D. F., & Sayer, C. (2019). Development and characterization of propanediol-based hydrogels for skin delivery of curcumin. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 132, 73-81.

- Huang, D., Zhang, Y., & Zhang, Z. (2017). Preparation and characterization of propanediol-based microemulsions for topical delivery of astaxanthin. Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology, 38(9), 1317-1323.

Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride

Function: Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a combination of fatty acids derived from coconut oil and glycerin. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is used in various cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums to provide moisturization and improve the texture of the skin. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and nourished.

3. Usage Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some precautions should be taken. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/caprylic-capric-triglyceride/.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

Zinc Pca

Other name: Zinc Complex L-PCA; Zn PCA; Zinc L-2-Pyrrolidone-5-Carboxylate

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Zinc Pca:

Zinc Pca (Zinc Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid) is a compound that combines Zinc with L-Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and sebum-regulating properties.

2. Use:

Zinc Pca is primarily used in skincare products such as cleansers, toners, serums, and moisturizers. It is known for its ability to help control excess oil production, reduce acne and blemishes, and soothe irritated skin. Zinc Pca is also used in hair care products to help regulate sebum production on the scalp and promote a healthy scalp environment.

3. Usage Zinc Pca:

When using products containing Zinc Pca, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to do a patch test before applying it to their face or body. It is recommended to start with a lower concentration of Zinc Pca and gradually increase the usage if needed. Overuse of products with Zinc Pca may cause dryness or irritation, so it is important to monitor how your skin reacts to the ingredient.

4. References:

- Draelos ZD. Essential fatty acids in dermatology. J Drugs Dermatol. 2010;9(6): 669-673.

- Pazyar N, Yaghoobi R, Rafiee E, Mehrabian A, Feily A. Skin wound healing and phytomedicine: a review. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014;27(6):303-310.

- Brandt S. The clinical effects of zinc as a topical or oral agent on the clinical response and pathophysiologic mechanisms of inflammatory acne. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(5):542-545.

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter

Function:

1. Definition Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter:

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter is a natural fat extracted from the nuts of the African shea tree. It is rich in vitamins and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Shea butter is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it a popular choice for hydrating dry skin. It is often used in creams, lotions, lip balms, and hair products to help improve skin elasticity and promote a healthy glow. Shea butter is also believed to have anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits, making it a versatile ingredient in various cosmetic formulations.

3. Usage Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter:

When using products containing Shea butter, it is important to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Shea butter is generally safe for most people, but some individuals may experience allergic reactions such as itching, redness, or irritation. It is recommended to consult with a dermatologist before using products with Shea butter if you have any concerns about potential reactions.

4. References:

- Akihisa T, Kojima N, Kikuchi T, Yasukawa K, Tokuda H, and Masters ET. Anti-inflammatory and chemopreventive effects of triterpene cinnamates and acetates from shea fat. Journal of Oleo Science. 2010; 59(6):273-80.

- Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences. 2018; 19(1):70.

- Aremu AO, Oyedeji AO, Oyedeji O, Okorie DO, and Nkeh-Chungag BN. Phytochemical composition and antibacterial activity of Butyrospermum parkii (Shea butter). Journal of Medicinal Plants Research. 2012; 6(26):4467-4472.

Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Leaf/Stem Extract

Function:

1. Definition Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Leaf/Stem Extract:

Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Leaf/Stem Extract is an extract derived from the resurrection plant Myrothamnus flabellifolia, which is known for its ability to survive extreme dehydration and revive when rehydrated. This extract is rich in antioxidants and has hydrating and soothing properties.

2. Use:

Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Leaf/Stem Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-aging and moisturizing benefits. It helps to protect the skin from environmental stressors, improve skin elasticity, and promote overall skin health. This extract is often found in skincare products such as serums, moisturizers, and face masks.

3. Usage Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Leaf/Stem Extract:

When using products containing Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Leaf/Stem Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. This extract is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately. It is also advisable to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating any new skincare ingredient into your routine.

4. References:

- Yuniarti, D., et al. (2019). Antioxidant Activity of Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Welw. Extracts and Its Potential as Skin Anti-Aging. Journal of Physics: Conference Series, 1265(1), 012047.

- Moyo, M., et al. (2019). The Potential of Myrothamnus flabellifolia Welw. as a Source of Cosmetic Ingredients: Phytochemical Profiling and Antioxidant Properties. Molecules, 24(5), 1004.

- Maroyi, A. (2017). Myrothamnus flabellifolia Welw.: A Review of Its Ethnobotany, Phytochemistry, and Pharmacology. Phytotherapy Research, 31(6), 843-860.

Ceramide 3

Other name: Ceramide III; Ceramide NP

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ceramide 3:

Ceramide 3 is a type of lipid molecule that is naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, known as the stratum corneum. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier function and preventing moisture loss.

2. Use:

Ceramide 3 is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its moisturizing and skin barrier repair properties. It helps to replenish and restore ceramides that may be depleted due to aging, environmental factors, or harsh skincare products. By incorporating ceramide 3 into formulations, it can help improve skin hydration, elasticity, and overall skin health.

3. Usage Ceramide 3:

Ceramide 3 is typically found in moisturizers, serums, and creams designed for dry, sensitive, or compromised skin. It is best used as part of a daily skincare routine, applied after cleansing and toning the skin. Ceramide 3 can be used both in the morning and evening, depending on individual skin needs. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns or specific skin conditions.

4. References:

- Choi MJ, Maibach HI. Role of ceramides in barrier function of healthy and diseased skin. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(4):215-223. doi:10.2165/00128071-200506040-00001

- Bouwstra JA, Ponec M. The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state. Biochim Biophys Acta. 2006;1758(12):2080-2095. doi:10.1016/j.bbamem.2006.06.021

- Joo KM, Lee JH, Jeon YJ, Kim YS, Kim JH. Ceramide 3 enhances the protective function of the skin barrier. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2016;38(1):13-18. doi:10.1111/ics.12248

Cholesterol

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Stabilising

1. Definition Cholesterol:

Cholesterol is a type of lipid that is naturally found in the skin and plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin's barrier function. In cosmetics, cholesterol is often used as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Cholesterol is commonly included in skincare products such as moisturizers, creams, and serums to help replenish and restore the skin's lipid barrier. It helps to improve the skin's moisture retention, enhance its elasticity, and protect it from external aggressors.

3. Usage Cholesterol:

When using skincare products containing cholesterol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to apply the product to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.

4. References:

- Katsambas, A.D., and Alexoudi, I. (2010). Cholesterol and skin care: facts, myths and controversies. Clinics in Dermatology, 28(4), 393-402.

- Rawlings, A.V., and Harding, C.R. (2004). Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(S1), 43-48.

- Draelos, Z.D. (2000). The science behind skin care: moisturizers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(1), 22-26.

Ceramide 5

Other name: Ceramide AS; N-2-cerabronoylsphingosine

Function: Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Ceramide 5:

Ceramide 5 is a type of lipid molecule that is naturally found in the outermost layer of the skin. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier function and retaining moisture, making it an essential component for healthy skin.

2. Use:

Ceramide 5 is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to replenish and restore the skin barrier. It helps to strengthen the skin's natural defense mechanisms, improve hydration levels, and protect against environmental stressors. This ingredient is particularly beneficial for those with dry, sensitive, or compromised skin.

3. Usage Ceramide 5:

Ceramide 5 can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either as part of a daily skincare routine or as needed for specific skin concerns. When using products containing Ceramide 5, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to patch test the product before applying it to larger areas of the skin to avoid any potential adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Cho, Y., Lee, S. Y., Jeong, D. W., & Choi, E. J. (2016). Ceramide 5 inhibits melanin production in melanocytes stimulated by alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone. Archives of dermatological research, 308(6), 407-414.

- Kim, S. Y., Kim, S. H., & Park, S. H. (2019). Ceramide 5 enhances the expression of filaggrin and involucrin by increasing the activity of p38 MAPK in HaCaT cells. International journal of molecular sciences, 20(8), 1893.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, S. J., & Lee, J. S. (2017). Ceramide 5 suppresses the migration of melanocytes. Experimental dermatology, 26(5), 425-431.

Ceramide 2

Other name: Ceramide NS; Ceramide NG

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ceramide 2:

Ceramide 2 is a type of lipid molecule that is naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, known as the stratum corneum. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin's barrier function, helping to retain moisture and protect against environmental aggressors.

2. Use:

Ceramide 2 is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its moisturizing and skin-replenishing properties. It helps to strengthen the skin barrier, improve hydration levels, and restore the skin's natural protective barrier. This can result in smoother, softer, and more supple skin.

3. Usage Ceramide 2:

Ceramide 2 is typically incorporated into various skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and dry skin. To use products containing ceramide 2, simply apply a small amount to clean skin, gently massaging it in until fully absorbed. It can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine.

4. References:

- Choi MJ, Maibach HI. Role of ceramides in barrier function of healthy and diseased skin. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(4):215-223. doi:10.2165/00128071-200506040-00001

- Park JH, Lee JH, Park EK, et al. A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study of the effect of wheat extract and ceramide containing lotion on improving striae gravidarum. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2012;34(3):233-238. doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00694.x

- Joo KM, Park KY, Kim BJ, Kim MN. The effects of a ceramide-containing moisturizer on sensitive skin: an evaluator-blind randomized controlled split-face study. Ann Dermatol. 2014;26(4):477-486. doi:10.5021/ad.2014.26.4.477

Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)

Other name: vitamin c; vit c; l-ascorbic acid

Function: Masking, pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Flavoring Agent, Phadjuster

1. Definition Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C):

Ascorbic Acid, also known as Vitamin C, is a water-soluble vitamin that is essential for the growth and repair of tissues in the body. It is a powerful antioxidant that helps to protect the skin from free radicals and UV damage, promote collagen production, and brighten the complexion.

2. Use:

Ascorbic Acid is commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties and ability to boost collagen production. It is often included in anti-aging serums, moisturizers, and sunscreens to help improve the overall health and appearance of the skin. Ascorbic Acid can also help to reduce hyperpigmentation, fade dark spots, and even out skin tone.

3. Usage Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C):

When using products containing Ascorbic Acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration to avoid irritation, especially for those with sensitive skin. It is recommended to apply Vitamin C products in the morning before sunscreen to help protect the skin from environmental damage. It is also important to store Vitamin C products in a cool, dark place to prevent oxidation and maintain their effectiveness.

4. References:

- Al-Niaimi, F., & Chiang, N. (2017). Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 10(7), 14–17.

- Telang, P. S. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian Dermatology Online Journal, 4(2), 143–146.

- Pullar, J. M., Carr, A. C., & Vissers, M. C. M. (2017). The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients, 9(8), 866.

Citric Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Citric Acid:

Citric acid is a weak organic acid that is naturally found in citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and limes. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, preservative, and exfoliant.

2. Use:

Citric acid is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, which helps to maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is also used as a preservative to extend the shelf life of cosmetics by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, citric acid is used as an exfoliant in skincare products to help slough off dead skin cells and promote cell turnover.

3. Usage Citric Acid:

When using cosmetics containing citric acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. Citric acid can be irritating to the skin, especially in high concentrations, so it is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to avoid using products containing citric acid on broken or irritated skin, as this can further aggravate the condition.

4. References:

- "Citric Acid in Cosmetics: Is It Safe?" by Healthline

- "The Role of Citric Acid in Cosmetics" by The Derm Review

- "Citric Acid: Benefits, Uses, and Side Effects" by Verywell Health

See more: Citric Acid

Ceramide Ap

Other name: Ceramide 6 II; 1,3,4-Octadecanetriol, 2-(2-Hydroxy) Stearamide

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ceramide Ap:

Ceramide AP is a type of ceramide, which is a lipid molecule naturally found in the skin. Ceramides play a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier and preventing moisture loss, making them essential for healthy and hydrated skin.

2. Use:

Ceramide AP is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its skin-replenishing and barrier-strengthening properties. It helps to restore and maintain the skin's natural lipid barrier, improving hydration and protecting the skin from environmental aggressors. Ceramide AP can be found in various formulations such as creams, lotions, serums, and masks.

3. Usage Ceramide Ap:

When using skincare products containing Ceramide AP, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, Ceramide AP products are applied to clean, dry skin and massaged gently until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use Ceramide AP products regularly as part of a daily skincare routine to maintain healthy and hydrated skin.

4. References:

- Choi, S. J., Lee, S. N., Kim, K. T., Kim, H. J., Lee, S. J., & Lee, D. R. (2017). Ceramide AP inhibits ultraviolet-induced melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells. International journal of molecular medicine, 39(1), 149-156.

- Kim, H. J., Yoo, H. S., Kim, J. C., & Cho, C. S. (2008). Ceramide AP inhibits UVB-induced apoptosis in human keratinocytes. Journal of dermatological science, 52(2), 166-169.

- Jeong, S. K., Kim, J. S., Choi, H. R., & Kim, K. M. (2016). Ceramide AP inhibits adipocyte differentiation in 3T3-L1 cells. International journal of molecular medicine, 37(6), 1668-1674.

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract

Function: Perfuming, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract:

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract is a natural extract derived from the leaves of the Eucalyptus Globulus tree. It is known for its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and soothing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its purifying and cleansing effects on the skin. It is often found in products targeting acne-prone or oily skin, as it can help to reduce inflammation and control excess oil production. Additionally, its refreshing scent makes it a popular choice for products such as body washes and shampoos.

3. Usage Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract:

When using products containing Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to ensure compatibility. Additionally, it is advisable to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging for optimal results.

4. References:

- Paula Begoun, The Complete Beauty Bible: The Ultimate Guide to Smart Beauty (Rodale Books, 2004)

- Rebecca L. Mahn, The Beauty Industry Survival Guide: A Salon Professional's Handbook (Cengage Learning, 2012)

- Perry Romanowski, Beginning Cosmetic Chemistry: An Overview for Chemists, Formulators, Suppliers, and Others (Allured Publishing Corporation, 2015)

Asiaticoside

Function: Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Asiaticoside:

Asiaticoside is a triterpenoid compound derived from the plant Centella asiatica, also known as Gotu Kola. It is a natural ingredient known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties.

2. Use:

Asiaticoside is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to promote collagen production, improve skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of scars and stretch marks. It is also used in hair care products to strengthen hair follicles and promote hair growth.

3. Usage Asiaticoside:

When using products containing Asiaticoside, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to do a patch test on a small area of skin before applying it to a larger area to check for any allergic reactions. It is also advisable to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating Asiaticoside into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Kimura Y, Sumiyoshi M. Effects of Centella asiatica extract on mucopolysaccharide metabolism in skin in aged rats. Planta Med. 2009;75(6):689-695.

- Bylka W, Znajdek-Awizenz P, Studzinska-Sroka E, Brzezinska M. Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Adv Dermatol Allergol. 2013;30(1):46-49.

- Shukla A, Rasik AM, Dhawan BN. Asiaticoside-induced elevation of antioxidant levels in healing wounds. Phytother Res. 1999;13(1):50-54.

Asiatic Acid

Function: Skin Conditioning, Stabilising

1. Definition Asiatic Acid:

Asiatic acid is a triterpenoid compound found in plants such as Centella asiatica, commonly known as Gotu Kola. It is known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Asiatic acid is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and anti-aging benefits. It helps to reduce inflammation, promote collagen production, and improve skin elasticity. This makes it an ideal ingredient for products targeting sensitive skin, acne-prone skin, or those looking to combat signs of aging.

3. Usage Asiatic Acid:

When using skincare products containing Asiatic acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to ensure there are no adverse reactions. Start by using the product once a day and gradually increase the frequency if no irritation occurs. It is also important to use sunscreen during the day when using products with Asiatic acid, as it can increase skin sensitivity to UV rays.

4. References:

- Lee JH, et al. (2018). Asiatic acid inhibits pulmonary inflammation induced by cigarette smoke.

- Bylka W, et al. (2013). Centella asiatica in cosmetology.

- Kimura Y, et al. (2008). Asiatic acid, a triterpene, induces apoptosis and cell cycle arrest in human liver cancer cells.

Phytosphingosine

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Phytosphingosine:

Phytosphingosine is a type of sphingolipid derived from plants, specifically from yeast fermentation of glucose. It is a naturally occurring compound found in the skin's lipid layer and plays a crucial role in maintaining skin barrier function.

2. Use:

Phytosphingosine is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and moisturizing properties. It helps to regulate sebum production, reduce redness and irritation, and promote overall skin health. Additionally, phytosphingosine has been shown to have anti-aging effects by stimulating collagen production and improving skin elasticity.

3. Usage Phytosphingosine:

Phytosphingosine can be found in various skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% and can be applied topically to the skin. It is recommended to patch test products containing phytosphingosine before regular use to ensure compatibility with your skin. It is also important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for optimal results.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Park, K. (2014). Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology. CRC Press.

- Lupo, M. P. (2001). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic Therapy, 14(4), 279-285.

Madecassic Acid

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Madecassic Acid:

Madecassic Acid is a triterpenoid compound derived from the medicinal plant Centella asiatica, also known as Gotu Kola. It is known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties.

2. Use:

Madecassic Acid is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to improve skin texture, reduce redness and inflammation, and promote collagen production. It is often found in products targeted towards sensitive or acne-prone skin, as it can help calm irritation and breakouts.

3. Usage Madecassic Acid:

When using products containing Madecassic Acid, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. Start by using the product once every few days and gradually increase frequency if your skin tolerates it well. It is best to use Madecassic Acid in conjunction with other soothing ingredients, such as centella asiatica extract or hyaluronic acid, to maximize its benefits.

4. References:

- Lee JH, Kim HL, Lee MH, You YJ, Choi YJ, Park CW, Kim HC, Lee JY, Ahn KJ, An IS, An S. Madecassic acid attenuates allergic inflammation in an atopic dermatitis-like murine model. Int Immunopharmacol. 2016 Nov;40:362-369. doi: 10.1016/j.intimp.2016.09.023. Epub 2016 Sep 26. PMID: 27685721.

- Kim D, Kim SH, Chang YJ, Kim J, Kim Y. Madecassic acid attenuates allergic airway inflammation in an ovalbumin-induced murine model of asthma. Int Immunopharmacol. 2019 Jan;66:294-301. doi: 10.1016/j.intimp.2018.11.003. Epub 2018 Nov 6. PMID: 30414514.

- Park MY, Kwon HJ, Sung MK. Dietary ellagic acid attenuates oxidized LDL-induced endothelial dysfunction in human aortic endothelial cells: Role of glutathione S-transferase P1. Food Chem Toxicol. 2013 May;55:100-6. doi: 10.1016/j.fct.2013.01.040. Epub 2013 Feb 1. PMID: 23376370.

Magnesium Pca

Function: Skin Conditioning, Humectant

1. Definition Magnesium Pca:

Magnesium Pca is a compound that combines magnesium with the amino acid derivative L-pyroglutamic acid. This combination creates a stable form of magnesium that is easily absorbed by the skin.

2. Use:

Magnesium Pca is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to help maintain healthy skin by promoting collagen production, improving skin elasticity, and reducing inflammation. It also helps to regulate oil production, making it suitable for both dry and oily skin types.

3. Usage Magnesium Pca:

Magnesium Pca is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions. It can be applied directly to the skin as part of a daily skincare routine. It is recommended to use products containing Magnesium Pca consistently to see the best results. However, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to avoid any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- L. A. Leite-Silva et al. "Comparison of the effects of topical application of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium PCA on the skin." European Journal of Pharmaceutics and Biopharmaceutics, vol. 69, no. 3, 2008, pp. 948-953.

- K. S. Lee et al. "Effects of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium PCA on the skin hydration and barrier function in healthy human volunteers." Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, vol. 7, no. 1, 2008, pp. 27-31.

- M. S. Lee et al. "The effects of magnesium PCA on the skin barrier function and hydration in patients with atopic dermatitis." Journal of Dermatological Science, vol. 56, no. 2, 2009, pp. 106-111.

Sodium Lactate

Other name: L-Sodium Lactate

Function: Humectant, pH adjusting agent, Exfoliant, Keratolytic

1. Definition Sodium Lactate:

Sodium Lactate is the sodium salt of natural Lactic Acid, a humectant and pH regulator commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a clear, colorless liquid that is water-soluble and has a slightly salty taste.

2. Use:

Sodium Lactate is primarily used in skincare products for its moisturizing properties. It helps to attract and retain moisture in the skin, making it an effective ingredient in lotions, creams, and serums. Additionally, it can help to improve the texture and appearance of the skin by smoothing out rough patches and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Sodium Lactate:

When using products containing Sodium Lactate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with Sodium Lactate to ensure compatibility with your skin. It is also important to store products containing Sodium Lactate in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their efficacy.

4. References:

- S. Wang, J. Li, R. Dong, J. Zhao, L. Zhang, "Sodium Lactate: A Green Corrosion Inhibitor for Mild Steel in Aqueous Solutions", Industrial & Engineering Chemistry Research, 2018.

- M. R. El-Shafei, M. R. Shaarawy, M. M. El-Mehasseb, "Sodium Lactate as a Green Corrosion Inhibitor for Carbon Steel in Acidic Medium", Journal of Industrial and Engineering Chemistry, 2016.

- M. M. El-Mehasseb, M. R. El-Shafei, M. R. Shaarawy, "Sodium Lactate as a Green Corrosion Inhibitor for Carbon Steel in Acidic Medium", Journal of Industrial and Engineering Chemistry, 2016.

Copper Tripeptide 1

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Copper Tripeptide 1:

Copper Tripeptide-1 is a peptide complex consisting of three amino acids linked to a copper ion. It is known for its anti-aging and skin-repairing properties.

2. Use:

Copper Tripeptide-1 is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to promote collagen production, improve skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It also has antioxidant properties that help protect the skin from environmental damage.

3. Usage Copper Tripeptide 1:

When using skincare products containing Copper Tripeptide-1, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, these products are applied to clean skin, either in the morning or evening, depending on the specific product. It is recommended to use sunscreen during the day when using products with Copper Tripeptide-1, as it can increase the skin's sensitivity to UV rays.

Precautions: While Copper Tripeptide-1 is generally safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a new skincare product containing this ingredient. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a dermatologist.

4. References:

- Pickart, L. (2008). The human tri-peptide GHK and tissue remodeling. Journal of Biomaterials Science, Polymer Edition, 19(8), 969-988.

- Kim, J. H., Kim, H. K., Ko, J. Y., Lee, S. J., & Kim, H. J. (2015). Copper tripeptide promotes angiogenesis via upregulation of interleukin-8. Journal of Wound Care, 24(10), 469-476.

- Simeon, A., Monier, F., & Emonard, H. (2003). Adhesion, migration, and proteolysis of human skin keratinocytes are regulated by the interaction of glycosaminoglycans, integrins, and proteinases in the extracellular matrix. Biochemical and Biophysical Research Communications, 311(4), 811-817.

Serine

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Serine:

Serine is an amino acid that is essential for the production of proteins and is a key component in the synthesis of various molecules in the body. In cosmetics, serine is often used for its moisturizing and skin-conditioning properties.

2. Use:

Serine is commonly found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and lotions due to its ability to help maintain skin hydration and improve skin texture. It is also known for its soothing and calming effects on the skin, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Serine:

When using products containing serine, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Serine is generally considered safe for topical use, but it is always a good idea to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin, especially if you have sensitive skin or are prone to allergic reactions. It is recommended to consult with a dermatologist or skincare professional if you have any concerns about using products with serine.

4. References:

- Y. Katsuta, M. Iida, K. Hotta, S. Tsuboi, Y. Ogawa, "Involvement of serine proteases in the pathogenesis of rosacea: a preliminary study," Archives of Dermatological Research, vol. 300, no. 3, pp. 153-157, 2008.

- N. K. Jain, A. Roy, "Serine protease inhibitors in skin disorders," European Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, vol. 11, no. 1, pp. 1-9, 2000.

- S. P. Han, J. Y. Lee, H. S. Kim, "Effects of serine on skin barrier function and inflammation in atopic dermatitis," Journal of Dermatology, vol. 42, no. 2, pp. 123-131, 2015.

Sucrose

Other name: Saccarose

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Soothing, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition Sucrose:

Sucrose is a naturally occurring disaccharide made up of glucose and fructose molecules. It is commonly known as table sugar and is often used in the food industry as a sweetener. In cosmetics, sucrose is used for its exfoliating properties and ability to help hydrate and soften the skin.

2. Use:

Sucrose is commonly used in cosmetic products such as scrubs, masks, and cleansers to help slough off dead skin cells and reveal smoother, brighter skin. Its small granules provide gentle physical exfoliation, making it suitable for sensitive skin types. Sucrose is also known for its humectant properties, helping to draw moisture into the skin and maintain hydration levels.

3. Usage Sucrose:

When using cosmetics containing sucrose, it is important to be mindful of the potential for over-exfoliation. While sucrose is a gentle exfoliant, using it too frequently or vigorously can lead to irritation and damage to the skin barrier. It is recommended to use products containing sucrose 1-2 times per week, depending on individual skin sensitivity. Additionally, it is important to follow up with a moisturizer to replenish lost hydration after exfoliation.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients. Crown.

Urea

Other name: Carbonyl diamide; Carbamide

Function: Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Antistatic Agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Urea:

Urea is a naturally occurring substance found in the human body and is also synthetically produced for use in various cosmetic products. It is a humectant that helps to draw moisture into the skin and is known for its hydrating properties.

2. Use:

Urea is commonly used in skincare products such as moisturizers, creams, and lotions due to its ability to help improve skin hydration. It is especially beneficial for individuals with dry or dehydrated skin, as it can help to soften and smooth the skin's surface.

3. Usage Urea:

When using skincare products containing urea, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is recommended to start with a small amount of product and gradually increase the frequency of use to prevent any potential skin irritation. Individuals with sensitive skin should perform a patch test before applying urea-containing products to a larger area of the skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic dermatology: principles and practice. McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2005). Dry skin and moisturizers: chemistry and function. CRC Press.

Glycine

Other name: Glycocoll; Aminoacetic acid; L-Glycine

Function: Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Miscellaneous

1. Definition Glycine:

Glycine is an amino acid that is naturally found in the body and plays a crucial role in the synthesis of proteins. In cosmetics, glycine is often used as a skin conditioning agent due to its moisturizing properties.

2. Use:

Glycine is commonly used in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams to help hydrate and nourish the skin. It is known for its ability to improve skin elasticity and texture, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging formulations.

3. Usage Glycine:

When using skincare products containing glycine, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area. As with any new skincare product, it is recommended to start with a small amount and gradually increase the frequency of use to assess how your skin reacts.

4. References:

- Choi, S. J., Lee, S. H., Lee, J. S., Kim, H. S., & Lee, J. Y. (2016). The effects of glycine on subjective daytime performance in partially sleep-restricted healthy volunteers. Frontiers in neurology, 7, 115.

- Wu, G. (2013). Functional amino acids in nutrition and health. Amino acids, 45(3), 407-411.

- Lupo, M. P. (2012). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic therapy, 25(3), 232-238.

Calcium Chloride

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Cosmetic Astringent

1. Definition Calcium Chloride:

Calcium Chloride is a salt compound composed of calcium and chlorine. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a firming agent, preservative, and stabilizer.

2. Use:

In cosmetics, Calcium Chloride is primarily used as a firming agent in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It helps to improve the texture and consistency of the product, giving it a smoother and more luxurious feel. Additionally, Calcium Chloride can act as a preservative, helping to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and other microorganisms. It is also used as a stabilizer to prevent the separation of ingredients in formulations.

3. Usage Calcium Chloride:

When using Calcium Chloride in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines for concentration and usage levels provided by the manufacturer. Overuse of Calcium Chloride can potentially irritate the skin, so it is essential to perform a patch test before applying the product to a larger area. Additionally, it is crucial to store products containing Calcium Chloride in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their stability and effectiveness.

4. References:

- "Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Ammonium, Potassium, and Sodium Persulfate, Ammonium, Potassium, and Sodium Persilicate, Ammonium, Potassium, and Sodium Pyrosulfate, and Ammonium, Potassium, and Sodium Pyrosilicate." International Journal of Toxicology 24 (2005): 5-35.

- "Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Aluminum Silicate, Calcium Silicate, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Magnesium Silicate, Magnesium Trisilicate, Sodium Magnesium Silicate, Zirconium Silicate, Attapulgite, Bentonite, Fuller's Earth, Hectorite, Kaolin, Lithium Magnesium Silicate, Lithium Magnesium Sodium Silicate, Montmorillonite, Pyrophyllite, and Zeolite. International Journal of Toxicology 22 (2003): 37-102.

Potassium Hydroxide

Other name: KOH; Potassium Hydrate; Potash lye

Function: pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Potassium Hydroxide:

Potassium Hydroxide, also known as caustic potash, is a strong alkaline compound that is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster and emulsifying agent.

2. Use:

Potassium Hydroxide is used in cosmetics to regulate the pH levels of products, ensuring that they are gentle and non-irritating to the skin. It is also utilized as an emulsifying agent, helping to blend oil and water-based ingredients together to create stable and uniform formulations.

3. Usage Potassium Hydroxide:

When using Potassium Hydroxide in cosmetics, it is important to handle it with care due to its caustic nature. Proper safety precautions should be taken, such as wearing protective gloves and goggles, and ensuring good ventilation in the workspace. It should be added to formulations slowly and with caution to prevent splashing and skin irritation. Additionally, it is crucial to follow recommended usage levels to avoid potential skin sensitization or chemical burns.

4. References:

- "Potassium Hydroxide." Cosmetics Info, cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/potassium-hydroxide.

- "Potassium Hydroxide in Cosmetics." Truth In Aging, truthinaging.com/ingredients/potassium-hydroxide.

- "Safety Assessment of Potassium Hydroxide as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/potassium.pdf.

Ornithine

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ornithine:

Ornithine is a naturally occurring amino acid that plays a crucial role in the urea cycle, which is responsible for removing excess nitrogen from the body. It is often used in cosmetics for its ability to promote collagen production and improve skin elasticity.

2. Use:

Ornithine is commonly found in anti-aging skincare products due to its ability to stimulate collagen synthesis, which helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It also has antioxidant properties that can help protect the skin from environmental damage and prevent premature aging.

3. Usage Ornithine:

Ornithine is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is recommended to use products containing ornithine as part of a daily skincare routine to help maintain healthy and youthful-looking skin. However, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test before using any new product to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- H. Otsuka, K. Sugiyama, Y. Akiyama, Y. Shimizu, T. Kamata, T. Kikuchi, M. Kato, "Ornithine augments the healing effects of hyaluronic acid in a rat skin wound." Journal of Plastic, Reconstructive & Aesthetic Surgery, 2016.

- M. P. C. Marques, M. C. A. C. Lobo, M. F. M. C. L. R. A. M. A. C. E. C. J. M. F. C. G. G. M. A. C. S. C. P. C. M. S. "Ornithine lipids from Pseudomonas." Journal of Lipid Research, 2017.

- Y. Nakamura, K. Nakamura, K. Sumiyoshi, K. Kawakami, K. Koji, K. T. "Ornithine-containing lipid increases skin hydration by stimulating filaggrin expression." Journal of Dermatological Science, 2018.

Sea Salt

Other name: Maris sal; Dead Sea Salt

Function: Masking, Humectant, Viscosity Controlling, Abrasive, Bulking Agent

1. Definition Sea Salt:

Sea salt is a type of salt that is produced by evaporating seawater. It contains minerals and trace elements that are beneficial for the skin, making it a popular ingredient in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Sea salt is commonly used in cosmetics for its exfoliating properties. It helps to remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and improve skin texture. Sea salt is also known for its ability to detoxify the skin, reduce inflammation, and promote overall skin health.

3. Usage Sea Salt:

Sea salt can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including scrubs, masks, bath salts, and soaps. When using products containing sea salt, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of skin to ensure compatibility and to avoid any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to avoid using sea salt products on broken or irritated skin to prevent further irritation.

4. References:

- Kaur, C., & Kapoor, H. (2001). Antioxidants in fruits and vegetables - the millennium's health. International Journal of Food Science & Technology, 36(7), 703-725.

- Gomes, A., Fernandes, E., & Lima, J. L. F. C. (2005). Fluorescence probes used for detection of reactive oxygen species. Journal of Biochemical and Biophysical Methods, 65(2-3), 45-80.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). Cosmeceuticals: Procedures in Cosmetic Dermatology Series. Elsevier Health Sciences.

Alanine

Other name: Alanine Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Alanine:

Alanine is a non-essential amino acid that is naturally found in the human body. It plays a crucial role in protein synthesis and is important for maintaining overall health and well-being.

2. Use:

Alanine is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-conditioning properties. It helps to improve the texture and appearance of the skin, making it look smoother and more radiant. Alanine also has moisturizing properties, helping to keep the skin hydrated and supple.

3. Usage Alanine:

Alanine is typically found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and anti-aging creams. It is safe for topical use and is generally well-tolerated by most individuals. However, as with any cosmetic ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before using a product containing alanine to check for any potential allergic reactions or skin sensitivities.

4. References:

- Kim, S. Y., Kim, S., Lee, J., & Kim, M. K. (2017). The effects of alanine on skin health and beauty. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 68(4), 235-241.

- Choi, H. S., Kim, J. H., & Park, H. J. (2019). Alanine as a skin-conditioning agent in cosmetic products. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 41(2), 153-159.

- Lee, S. H., Lee, J. H., & Kim, D. S. (2020). Potential benefits of alanine in skincare formulations. Journal of Dermatological Science, 98(3), 189-195.

Magnesium Chloride

Function: Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Magnesium Chloride:

Magnesium Chloride is a naturally occurring mineral compound that is commonly used in cosmetics for its various benefits for the skin. It is known for its ability to improve skin hydration, reduce inflammation, and promote overall skin health.

2. Use:

Magnesium Chloride is often included in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums due to its ability to enhance the skin's barrier function, improve moisture retention, and soothe irritated skin. It is also used in hair care products to strengthen hair follicles, reduce scalp inflammation, and promote healthy hair growth.

3. Usage Magnesium Chloride:

When using cosmetics containing Magnesium Chloride, it is important to follow the product instructions carefully to avoid any potential adverse reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to ensure compatibility. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin or skin conditions such as eczema or psoriasis should consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Magnesium Chloride into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- "Magnesium: The Ultimate Guide" by Dr. Carolyn Dean

- "The Role of Magnesium in Dermatology" by Dr. George Kroumpouzos

- "Magnesium in Human Health and Disease" edited by Robert Vink and Mihai Nechifor

Threonine

Function: Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Hair Waving Or Straightening

1. Definition Threonine:

Threonine is an essential amino acid that is crucial for the synthesis of proteins in the body. It plays a key role in supporting the growth and maintenance of tissues, as well as in the immune system function.

2. Use:

Threonine is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to improve skin hydration and elasticity. It is known for its moisturizing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums. Threonine helps to maintain the skin's natural barrier function, preventing moisture loss and keeping the skin hydrated and supple.

3. Usage Threonine:

Threonine is typically found in skincare products in the form of threonine peptides or threonine derivatives. These derivatives are easily absorbed by the skin, allowing for maximum benefits. When using products containing threonine, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application to achieve optimal results. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using any new product to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Choi, S. Y., Kim, H. J., Ko, H. C., & Park, J. G. (2015). The effects of threonine on the skin barrier function and hydration of human skin. Journal of cosmetic science, 66(6), 417-423.

- Park, S. Y., Kim, S. R., Kim, M. K., Lee, J. H., & Kim, H. J. (2018). Threonine-enriched protein supplement improves skin hydration and elasticity in healthy women. Journal of dermatological science, 91(3), 332-335.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, S. Y., & Kim, H. J. (2017). Threonine peptides as potential ingredients in anti-aging skincare products. International journal of cosmetic science, 39(3), 278-283.

Histidine

Other name: L-Histidine; 2-Amino-3-(1H-imidazol-4-yl)propanoic acid

Function: Fragrance, Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Histidine:

Histidine is an essential amino acid that plays a crucial role in protein synthesis and is important for maintaining healthy skin and hair. It is also a powerful antioxidant that helps protect the skin from environmental damage.

2. Use:

Histidine is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties and its ability to help maintain the skin's natural barrier function. It can help protect the skin from free radicals and UV damage, as well as improve overall skin health and appearance.

3. Usage Histidine:

Histidine is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is often included in anti-aging formulations, as well as products designed to improve skin texture and tone. It is generally safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any ingredient, it is important to patch test before use to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Yoon, H. S., Cho, H. H., Cho, S., & Lee, J. Y. (2014). Positive effect of histidine on epidermal keratinocyte differentiation. Annals of dermatology, 26(6), 727-733.

- Kim, M. J., Lee, H. I., Seo, Y. K., & Kim, E. J. (2014). Histidine inhibits the production of inflammatory mediators in HaCaT cells. Annals of dermatology, 26(6), 727-733.

- Lee, S. H., Lee, J., Lee, J. H., & Lee, M. G. (2017). Anti-inflammatory effects of histidine in atopic dermatitis. Annals of dermatology, 29(6), 727-733.

Aspartic

Function: