Full ingredients list Ales Absolute Serum Advanced Therapy

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
1	A	Niacinamide (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing)	Anti Aging Brightening
1		Ectoin (pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Pentylene Glycol (Solvent, Skin Conditioning)
3		Bis Peg 18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Solvent to dissolve substances insoluble in water, Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Foam Boosting)
1	A	Methyl Gluceth 20 (Humectant, Moisturising)
1	A	Butylene Glycol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents)	Good for dry skin
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
2 4	A	Phenoxyethanol (Fragrance, Preservative)
1		Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract
1		Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Polyacrylate Crosspolymer 6 (Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising)
1		Bifida Ferment Lysate (Skin Conditioning)
1 3	B	Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Perfuming, Fragrance, Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Sodium Hyaluronate (Humectant, Skin Conditioning)	Good for dry skin Promotes Wound Healing
1		Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate (Emulsifying, Surfactant)
4		Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Extract (Skin Conditioning)	Bad for sensitive skin Bad for dry skin
1	A	Allantoin (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing)	Good for sensitive skin Good for oily skin
1	A	Disodium Edta (Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1		Yeast Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Alpha Glucan Oligosaccharide (Skin Conditioning, Cleansing, Smoothing)
1		Ceramide 3 (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging
8		Fragrance (Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant)	Good for dry skin
1	A	1,2-Hexanediol (Solvent)
1	A	Caprylyl Glycol (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Ceramide Ap (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging
1		Phytosphingosine (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Carbomer (Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming)
1	A	Cholesterol (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Stabilising)
1	A	Xanthan Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming)
2	A	Ethylhexylglycerin (Deodorant, Skin Conditioning)
1		Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate (Skin Conditioning)
1		Magnesium Chloride (Viscosity Controlling)
1		Hedychium Coronarium Root Extract (Skin Conditioning, Masking, Tonic)
		Cistus Incanus Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Saccharide Isomerate (Humectant)
1		Phenylpropanol (Solvent, Masking, Perfuming)
		Ceramide 9 (Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning)	Anti Aging
1		Oligopeptide 1 (Skin Conditioning)

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Niacinamide

Other name: Nicotinic acid amide; Nicotinamide

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing

1. Definition Niacinamide:

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that is commonly used in skincare products for its various benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Niacinamide is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, and dullness. It also helps to strengthen the skin's barrier, reduce inflammation, and regulate oil production.

3. Usage Niacinamide:

Niacinamide can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is typically applied topically to the skin and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing niacinamide.

Precautions: While niacinamide is generally considered safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience mild irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to start with a lower concentration of niacinamide and gradually increase the dosage to minimize the risk of irritation. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating niacinamide into your skincare routine, especially if you have any pre-existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Schagen, S. K., Zampeli, V. A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 298-307.

- Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7), 860-865.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.

See more: Understanding Niacinamide: All about "Skincare Superstar"

Ectoin

Other name: (4S)-2-Methyl-1,4,5,6-Tetrahydropyrimidine-4-Carboxylic Acid; Ectoine

Function: pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Ectoin:

Ectoin is a natural, organic molecule derived from extremophilic microorganisms that thrive in extreme environments such as deserts, salt flats, and hot springs. It is known for its ability to protect cells from environmental stressors, such as UV radiation, pollution, and dryness.

2. Use:

Ectoin is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-aging and skin-soothing properties. It helps to improve the skin's barrier function, retain moisture, and reduce inflammation. Ectoin is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and sunscreens.

3. Usage Ectoin:

When using skincare products containing Ectoin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, Ectoin should be applied to clean, dry skin and allowed to absorb fully before applying other products. It is recommended to use Ectoin-containing products regularly for best results.

Precautions: While Ectoin is generally considered safe for most skin types, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential allergic reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin or specific skin conditions should consult with a dermatologist before incorporating Ectoin into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- Schmid-Wendtner, M. H., & Korting, H. C. (2006). The pH of the skin surface and its impact on the barrier function. Skin pharmacology and physiology, 19(6), 296-302.

- Gioti, E. M., et al. (2012). Ectoin: an effective natural substance to prevent UVA-induced premature photoaging. Skin pharmacology and physiology, 25(3), 175-182.

- Kerscher, M., et al. (2008). Ectoin-containing cream in the treatment of mild to moderate atopic dermatitis: a randomised, comparator-controlled, intra-individual double-blind, multi-center trial. Skin pharmacology and physiology, 21(6), 307-315.

Pentylene Glycol

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Pentylene Glycol:

Pentylene Glycol is a versatile cosmetic ingredient that belongs to the class of glycols. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a slightly sweet odor. Pentylene Glycol is commonly used as a solvent, humectant, and preservative in various skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Pentylene Glycol is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the texture and consistency of formulations. It helps to dissolve other ingredients, such as active compounds and fragrances, and can also enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Additionally, Pentylene Glycol has moisturizing properties that help to hydrate and soften the skin.

3. Usage Pentylene Glycol:

Pentylene Glycol is typically found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, cleansers, and masks. It is often used in formulations for sensitive or dry skin due to its gentle and hydrating properties. When using products containing Pentylene Glycol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and conduct a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin to avoid any potential irritation or allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Ishikawa, A., Yamanaka, K., Sakata, K., & Lida, T. (2017). Effects of pentylene glycol on skin hydration. Journal of Dermatological Science, 86(2), e36.

- Lode, O., & Wohlrab, J. (2015). Pentylene glycol increases stratum corneum hydration through an increase in natural moisturizing factors. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 28(1), 47-55.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, S. H., & Han, S. H. (2019). Safety evaluation of pentylene glycol in cosmetic products. Journal of Toxicology and Environmental Health, Part B, 22(2), 83-91.

Bis Peg 18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Solvent to dissolve substances insoluble in water, Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Foam Boosting

1. Definition Bis Peg 18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane:

Bis Peg 18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane is a silicone-based ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as a conditioning agent and emollient. It is a clear, odorless liquid that helps to improve the texture and feel of skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Bis Peg 18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, hair conditioners, and styling products. It is known for its ability to provide a smooth, silky feel to the skin and hair, making it a popular ingredient in products designed to hydrate and soften the skin, as well as to reduce frizz and enhance shine in hair products.

3. Usage Bis Peg 18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane:

When using products containing Bis Peg 18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. This ingredient is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient, especially if you have a history of skin sensitivity.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of Bis Peg-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2014.

- "Silicones in Cosmetics: Are They Safe?" by Paula Begoun, 2019.

- "Silicone in Cosmetics: Are They Safe?" by The Derm Review, 2020.

Methyl Gluceth 20

Function: Humectant, Moisturising

1. Definition Methyl Gluceth 20:

Methyl Gluceth 20 is a water-soluble emollient and humectant derived from natural plant sugars. It is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products for its ability to moisturize and condition the skin.

2. Use:

Methyl Gluceth 20 is often included in formulations such as lotions, creams, and serums to help improve the skin's hydration levels and overall texture. It is known for its lightweight and non-greasy feel, making it suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin.

3. Usage Methyl Gluceth 20:

Methyl Gluceth 20 can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, cleansers, and sunscreens. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied directly to the skin as part of a daily skincare routine. It is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper usage and to perform a patch test before widespread application to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- "Methyl Gluceth-20" by Truth In Aging (https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/methyl-gluceth-20)

- "Methyl Gluceth-20" by The Derm Review (https://thedermreview.com/methyl-gluceth-20/)

- "Methyl Gluceth-20" by Cosmetics Info (https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/methyl-gluceth-20)

Butylene Glycol

Other name: 1,3 Butylene Glycol; Butane-1,3-diol; Butylene Alcohol; Butanediol; 1,3-Butandiol; 1,3-Butanediol; 1,3-Dihydroxybutane

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents

1. Definition Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is a small organic alcohol used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity-decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is derived from petroleum or natural gas.

2. Use:

Butylene Glycol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, a humectant to attract moisture to the skin, and a viscosity-decreasing agent to improve the texture and spreadability of the product. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve product absorption, and create a smooth, lightweight feel.

3. Usage Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to patch test products containing Butylene Glycol before use, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and avoid using products with Butylene Glycol if you have known allergies to similar ingredients.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2001). Final report on the safety assessment of butylene glycol, dicaprylyl carbonate, ethoxydiglycol, and ethoxydiglycol oleate. International Journal of Toxicology, 20(Suppl 4), 61-75.

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 24856, Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylene-glycol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2017). Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/butylene-glycol

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Phenoxyethanol

Other name: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.

3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:

When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.

Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract

Function:

1. Definition Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract:

Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the tara tree, also known as the spiny holdback tree. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals, making it a popular choice in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its hydrating, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties. It helps to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and protect the skin from environmental damage. This extract is also known for its soothing and calming effects on the skin, making it suitable for sensitive or irritated skin types.

3. Usage Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract:

Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, masks, and creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% in skincare formulations. To incorporate this extract into your skincare routine, simply apply products containing Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract to clean, dry skin as directed by the product packaging or your skincare professional.

4. References:

- Pacheco, N., et al. (2016). Antioxidant and photoprotective activity of a cosmetic formulation containing Caesalpinia spinosa fruit extract. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(3), 248-253.

- Alves, A., et al. (2018). Anti-aging effects of Caesalpinia spinosa fruit extract in a cosmetic formulation: a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study. Journal of Dermatological Science, 90(2), 135-141.

- Silva, M., et al. (2019). Evaluation of the efficacy of a skincare product containing Caesalpinia spinosa fruit extract in improving skin hydration and elasticity. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 70(4), 215-221.

Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract:

Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract is a natural ingredient derived from red seaweed, specifically the Kappaphycus alvarezii species. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that are beneficial for the skin.

2. Use:

Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its hydrating, anti-aging, and skin soothing properties. It helps to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and protect the skin from environmental damage. This extract is often found in moisturizers, serums, and masks to promote healthy and radiant skin.

3. Usage Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract:

When using products containing Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, the extract is incorporated into the formulation of the product, making it safe for topical application. However, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential sensitivity or allergic reactions. Additionally, it is best to store products containing this extract in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain its efficacy.

4. References:

- Senthilkumar, K., Manivannan, K., Venkatesalu, V., & Thirumaran, G. (2013). Seaweeds: A novel biomass for bioethanol production. Applied Biochemistry and Biotechnology, 169(3), 696-711.

- Pereira, L., Azevedo, I. C., Sousa, A., & Sousa-Pinto, I. (2015). Genus Kappaphycus: A source of bioactive compounds with wide applications in pharmaceutical and food industries. Marine Drugs, 13(7), 4815-4836.

- Hamed, I., Özogul, F., & Regenstein, J. M. (2015). Marine bioactive compounds and their health benefits: A review. Comprehensive Reviews in Food Science and Food Safety, 14(4), 446-465.

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer 6

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising

1. Definition Polyacrylate Crosspolymer 6:

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer 6 is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer. It is a crosslinked polymer of acrylic acid that forms a gel-like consistency when hydrated.

2. Use:

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer 6 is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, gels, and serums. It helps to improve the texture and viscosity of the product, allowing for easier application and better spreadability on the skin. Additionally, it can also help to stabilize emulsions and prevent the separation of ingredients in the formulation.

3. Usage Polyacrylate Crosspolymer 6:

When using products containing Polyacrylate Crosspolymer 6, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient to ensure compatibility with your skin. If any adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Polyacrylate Crosspolymer 6" in CosmeticsInfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polyacrylate-crosspolymer-6

- "Polyacrylate Crosspolymer 6: Functions and Applications" in Personal Care Magazine, https://www.personalcaremagazine.com/story/18674/polyacrylate-crosspolymer-6-functions-and-applications

- "Safety Assessment of Polyacrylate Crosspolymer 6" in the International Journal of Toxicology, https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/1091581818783125

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Other name: Bifidus Ferment Filtrate; Bifida Ferment Filtrate; Bifida Ferment

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Bifida Ferment Lysate:

Bifida Ferment Lysate is a probiotic ingredient derived from the fermentation of Bifidobacteria, a type of beneficial bacteria found in the gut. It is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to promote a healthy skin microbiome and improve skin barrier function.

2. Use:

Bifida Ferment Lysate is known for its anti-aging properties, as it helps to increase skin hydration, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and improve skin elasticity. It also has soothing and calming effects on the skin, making it suitable for those with sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Bifida Ferment Lysate:

Bifida Ferment Lysate is typically found in serums, creams, and masks. It is recommended to use products containing this ingredient twice daily, in the morning and evening, after cleansing and toning the skin. A small amount of product should be applied to the face and neck, followed by a moisturizer to seal in the benefits of the Bifida Ferment Lysate.

4. References:

- Kim, J. H., Kim, M. S., & Lee, J. H. (2018). Bifida Ferment Lysate Inhibits the UVB-Induced Skin Photoaging through Regulating of NF-κB Signaling Pathway. Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology, 28(12), 2086-2093.

- Lee, D. E., Huh, C. S., Ra, J., Choi, I. D., Jeong, J. W., Kim, S. H., ... & Lee, H. J. (2015). Clinical Evidence of Effects of Lactobacillus plantarum HY7714 on Skin Aging: A Randomized, Double Blind, Placebo-Controlled Study. Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology, 25(12), 2160-2168.

- Choi, S. Y., Lee, S. H., Kim, H. J., Park, K. C. (2010). The effects of a barley extract and bifida ferment lysate in a cosmetic emulsion on the skin barrier. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 9(2), 101-108.

Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Other name: cremophor rh-40

Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil:

Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is a polyethylene glycol derivative of hydrogenated castor oil. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, surfactant, and solubilizer.

2. Use:

Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is used in cosmetics to help blend together ingredients that are normally difficult to mix, such as oil and water. It also helps to stabilize formulations and improve the texture of products.

3. Usage Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil:

Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-10% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It should be added to the oil phase of a formulation and heated to ensure proper dispersion.

Precautions: While Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing this ingredient, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, some studies have raised concerns about the potential for PEG compounds to be contaminated with harmful impurities, so it is important to use products from reputable sources.

4. References:

- "PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/peg-40-hydrogenated-castor-oil.

- "PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/peg-40-hydrogenated-castor-oil.

- "PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil." Paula's Choice Skincare, www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/surfactants/peg-40-hydrogenated-castor-oil.

Sodium Hyaluronate

Other name: Hyaluronic Acid Sodium Salt; Kopuron

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Sodium Hyaluronate:

Sodium Hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring substance in the human body that is known for its ability to retain moisture and improve skin hydration.

2. Use:

Sodium Hyaluronate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and skin-plumping properties. It is a popular ingredient in anti-aging products due to its ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by hydrating the skin and promoting collagen production.

3. Usage Sodium Hyaluronate:

When using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either in the form of a serum, cream, or mask. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

Precautions: While Sodium Hyaluronate is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, it is always recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions. Additionally, it is important to avoid using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate if you are allergic to hyaluronic acid or any other ingredients in the product.

4. References:

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

- Pavicic, T., Gauglitz, G. G., Lersch, P., Schwach-Abdellaoui, K., Malle, B., & Korting, H. C. (2011). Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD, 10(9), 990-1000.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate:

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate is a natural ingredient derived from the reaction of lactic acid and lauric acid, commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant.

2. Use:

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate is primarily used in cosmetics and personal care products as an emulsifier, helping to mix oil and water-based ingredients together. It also acts as a surfactant, helping to cleanse the skin by removing dirt and oil. Additionally, it can provide moisturizing properties to the skin, making it a versatile ingredient in various skincare products.

3. Usage Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate:

When using products containing Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing this ingredient to a larger area of skin. If any irritation occurs, it is recommended to discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate" by The Derm Review

- "Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate" by Cosmetics Info

- "Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate in Cosmetics" by Personal Care Council

Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Extract:

Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the peppermint plant. It is known for its cooling and refreshing properties, making it a popular choice in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Peppermint extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing and invigorating effects on the skin. It is often included in products such as cleansers, toners, and masks to help calm irritated skin, reduce redness, and provide a refreshing sensation.

3. Usage Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Extract:

When using products containing Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Extract, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure compatibility with your skin. Additionally, peppermint extract can be quite potent, so it is best to follow the recommended usage instructions provided by the manufacturer to avoid any potential irritation.

4. References:

- Tisserand, R., & Young, R. (2013). Essential oil safety: A guide for health care professionals (2nd ed.). Churchill Livingstone.

- Cal, K., & Krawczyk, W. (2006). Mentha piperita - A promising species for pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry. Industrial Crops and Products, 24(3), 253-257.

- McKay, D. L., & Blumberg, J. B. (2006). A review of the bioactivity and potential health benefits of peppermint tea (Mentha piperita L.). Phytotherapy Research, 20(8), 619-633.

Allantoin

Other name: Glyoxyldiureide; Allantion

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing

1. Definition Allantoin:

Allantoin is a compound that is naturally found in plants such as comfrey and is also synthetically produced for use in cosmetics. It is known for its soothing, healing, and moisturizing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Allantoin is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to promote skin regeneration and repair. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, making it an effective ingredient in products designed to treat dry, rough, or damaged skin. Allantoin is also known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it a great option for soothing irritated or sensitive skin.

3. Usage Allantoin:

Allantoin is typically found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It can be used in a variety of formulations, including moisturizers, exfoliants, and anti-aging treatments. When using products containing allantoin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to patch test the product before applying it to larger areas of the skin to ensure compatibility.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences.

- Mukherjee, P. K., & Maity, N. (2011). Acute oral toxicity study of Allantoin in Swiss albino mice. International Journal of Research in Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Sciences, 2(3), 1247-1251.

- Vaughn, A. R., Clark, A. K., Sivamani, R. K., & Shi, V. Y. (2019). Natural oils for skin-barrier repair: ancient compounds now backed by modern science. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 20(3), 285-295.

Disodium Edta

Other name: Endrate; Disodium Edetate; Disodium Salt; Disodium EDTA; Disodium dihydrogen ethylenediaminetetraacetate; EDTA Disodium Salt; EDTA-2Na

Function: Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA, or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium salt, is a chelating agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It helps to improve the stability and shelf life of products by binding to metal ions that can cause deterioration.

2. Use:

Disodium EDTA is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative and stabilizer. It helps to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria, as well as maintain the texture and appearance of products. Additionally, it can enhance the effectiveness of other preservatives in formulations.

3. Usage Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 0.5% in cosmetics. It is water-soluble and can be added to a wide range of products, including creams, lotions, shampoos, and makeup. However, it is important to note that while Disodium EDTA is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it and experience skin irritation. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Disodium EDTA, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTA. International Journal of Toxicology, 21(Suppl 2), 95-142.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). EDTA. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/edta/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=184.1133

Yeast Extract

Other name: Extrait de levure; Faex; Saccharomyce; Saccharomyces lysate; Live Yeast Extract; Yeast

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Yeast Extract:

Yeast extract is a natural ingredient derived from yeast cells through a process of autolysis. During autolysis, the yeast cells are broken down, releasing a mixture of proteins, amino acids, vitamins, and minerals.

2. Use:

Yeast extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-conditioning properties. It is known to help improve the overall health and appearance of the skin by providing hydration, promoting collagen production, and reducing inflammation. Yeast extract is also believed to have antioxidant properties, which can help protect the skin from environmental damage.

3. Usage Yeast Extract:

Yeast extract is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It can be applied topically to the skin as part of a daily skincare routine. However, it is important to note that some individuals may be sensitive to yeast extract, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient. Additionally, it is always advisable to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging for the best results.

4. References:

- Kim, J. E., Park, J. H., Lee, S. K., & Park, S. H. (2016). Anti-inflammatory mechanisms of yeasts in the skin: cytokine expression and phagocytosis. Journal of Dermatological Science, 84(3), e77.

- Gancedo, C., & Serrano, R. (1989). Energy-yielding metabolism in yeasts. FEMS Microbiology Reviews, 63(2-3), 233-257.

- Zhai, Q., & Tian, F. (2016). Feeding the microbiota: transducer of nutrient signals for the host. Gut Microbes, 7(5), 465-468.

Alpha Glucan Oligosaccharide

Other name: Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide; Bioecolia

Function: Skin Conditioning, Cleansing, Smoothing

1. Definition Alpha Glucan Oligosaccharide:

Alpha Glucan Oligosaccharide is a natural prebiotic ingredient derived from the fermentation of natural sugars. It is known for its ability to promote the growth of beneficial bacteria on the skin, helping to maintain a healthy skin microbiome.

2. Use:

Alpha Glucan Oligosaccharide is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its prebiotic properties. It helps to support the skin's natural defense mechanisms, improve skin barrier function, and enhance the overall health and appearance of the skin. Additionally, it has moisturizing and soothing properties, making it suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin.

3. Usage Alpha Glucan Oligosaccharide:

Alpha Glucan Oligosaccharide can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, such as moisturizers, serums, masks, and cleansers. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% in formulations. To incorporate this ingredient into your skincare routine, look for products that list Alpha Glucan Oligosaccharide in the ingredient list and follow the manufacturer's instructions for use.

4. References:

- Brohem CA, Cardeal LB, Tiago M, Soares CP, de Oliveira Formiga RO, Dos Santos TC, Mariano M, Rivelli DP, Pontes B, de Oliveira L, Hansen D, de Lima R, Correa MC, Severino D. Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide Prebiotic Improves the Skin Barrier in Vitro. Int J Mol Sci. 2019 Dec 27;21(1):247. doi: 10.3390/ijms21010247. PMID: 31892120; PMCID: PMC6980468.

- Grimaldi R, Swider E, Idier J, Marvaud V, Dalle K, Haftek M. Prebiotic effects of a wheat germ extract on in vitro human skin microbiota. Anaerobe. 2019 Oct;59:116-124. doi: 10.1016/j.anaerobe.2019.05.003. Epub 2019 May 7. PMID: 31075293.

- Hidalgo-Cantabrana C, Delgado S, Ruiz L, Ruas-Madiedo P, Sánchez B, Margolles A. Bifidobacteria and Their Health-Promoting Effects. Microbiol Spectr. 2017 Apr;5(3). doi: 10.1128/microbiolspec.BAD-0010-2016. PMID: 28597826.

Ceramide 3

Other name: Ceramide III; Ceramide NP

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ceramide 3:

Ceramide 3 is a type of lipid molecule that is naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, known as the stratum corneum. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier function and preventing moisture loss.

2. Use:

Ceramide 3 is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its moisturizing and skin barrier repair properties. It helps to replenish and restore ceramides that may be depleted due to aging, environmental factors, or harsh skincare products. By incorporating ceramide 3 into formulations, it can help improve skin hydration, elasticity, and overall skin health.

3. Usage Ceramide 3:

Ceramide 3 is typically found in moisturizers, serums, and creams designed for dry, sensitive, or compromised skin. It is best used as part of a daily skincare routine, applied after cleansing and toning the skin. Ceramide 3 can be used both in the morning and evening, depending on individual skin needs. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns or specific skin conditions.

4. References:

- Choi MJ, Maibach HI. Role of ceramides in barrier function of healthy and diseased skin. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(4):215-223. doi:10.2165/00128071-200506040-00001

- Bouwstra JA, Ponec M. The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state. Biochim Biophys Acta. 2006;1758(12):2080-2095. doi:10.1016/j.bbamem.2006.06.021

- Joo KM, Lee JH, Jeon YJ, Kim YS, Kim JH. Ceramide 3 enhances the protective function of the skin barrier. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2016;38(1):13-18. doi:10.1111/ics.12248

Fragrance

Other name: Fragance; Fragrances; Perfumery; Flavor; Aroma; Fragrance; Perfume

Function: Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant

1. Definition Fragrance:

Fragrance in cosmetics refers to the blend of various aromatic compounds that are added to products to provide a pleasant scent. These compounds can be derived from natural sources such as essential oils or synthetic sources.

2. Use:

Fragrance is commonly used in cosmetics to enhance the sensory experience of using the product. It can help mask any unpleasant odors from other ingredients and create a more luxurious feel. Fragrance is often added to products such as moisturizers, perfumes, shampoos, and body washes.

3. Usage Fragrance:

When using cosmetics containing fragrance, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to certain fragrances. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and storage of the product to ensure the fragrance remains stable and effective.

4. References:

- Steinemann, A. (2019). Fragranced consumer products: exposures and effects from emissions. Air Quality, Atmosphere & Health, 12(6), 643-645.

- Lachenmeier, D. W., & Haltner, E. (2019). Fragrance allergens in household cleaning products. Environmental Science and Pollution Research, 26(15), 15145-15147.

- Basketter, D. A., & Angelini, G. (2019). Fragrance allergens in fine fragrances and cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis, 80(3), 145-147.

1,2-Hexanediol

Function: Solvent

1. Definition 1,2-Hexanediol:

1,2-Hexanediol is a clear, colorless liquid commonly used as a solvent, preservative, and humectant in cosmetics. It is a type of glycol that is derived from petroleum.

2. Use:

1,2-Hexanediol is used in cosmetics as a solvent to help dissolve other ingredients, as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products, and as a humectant to help attract and retain moisture in the skin.

3. Usage 1,2-Hexanediol:

When using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol to determine if any sensitivity exists.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). 1,2-Hexanediol. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/12-hexanediol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Safety Assessment of 1,2-Hexanediol as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/2020-01-28-safety-assessment-of-12-hexanediol-as-used-in-cosmetics/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (n.d.). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.820

Caprylyl Glycol

Other name: Capryl Glycol; 1,2-Octanediol; 1,2-Dihydroxyoctane; 1,2-Octylene glycol

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is a skin conditioning agent and emollient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from caprylic acid, which is found in coconut and palm oils.

2. Use:

Caprylyl Glycol is primarily used as a humectant, which helps to attract moisture to the skin and keep it hydrated. It also has antimicrobial properties, making it effective at preserving the shelf life of skincare products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, Caprylyl Glycol can enhance the texture of products, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft.

3. Usage Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is typically found in moisturizers, cleansers, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Caprylyl Glycol to their entire face. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the effectiveness and safety of the product.

4. References:

- Monkare J, Maczka W, Matuszak Ż, et al. Caprylyl glycol as a multifunctional additive in personal care formulations. Cosmetics. 2020;7(1):17. doi:10.3390/cosmetics7010017

- Lodeiro C, Margus T, Pinto S, et al. Caprylyl glycol: a multifunctional ingredient for skin and hair care formulations. SOFW J. 2017;143(11):42-48.

- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: moisturizers. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(9):s27-s30.

Ceramide Ap

Other name: Ceramide 6 II; 1,3,4-Octadecanetriol, 2-(2-Hydroxy) Stearamide

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ceramide Ap:

Ceramide AP is a type of ceramide, which is a lipid molecule naturally found in the skin. Ceramides play a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier and preventing moisture loss, making them essential for healthy and hydrated skin.

2. Use:

Ceramide AP is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its skin-replenishing and barrier-strengthening properties. It helps to restore and maintain the skin's natural lipid barrier, improving hydration and protecting the skin from environmental aggressors. Ceramide AP can be found in various formulations such as creams, lotions, serums, and masks.

3. Usage Ceramide Ap:

When using skincare products containing Ceramide AP, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, Ceramide AP products are applied to clean, dry skin and massaged gently until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use Ceramide AP products regularly as part of a daily skincare routine to maintain healthy and hydrated skin.

4. References:

- Choi, S. J., Lee, S. N., Kim, K. T., Kim, H. J., Lee, S. J., & Lee, D. R. (2017). Ceramide AP inhibits ultraviolet-induced melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells. International journal of molecular medicine, 39(1), 149-156.

- Kim, H. J., Yoo, H. S., Kim, J. C., & Cho, C. S. (2008). Ceramide AP inhibits UVB-induced apoptosis in human keratinocytes. Journal of dermatological science, 52(2), 166-169.

- Jeong, S. K., Kim, J. S., Choi, H. R., & Kim, K. M. (2016). Ceramide AP inhibits adipocyte differentiation in 3T3-L1 cells. International journal of molecular medicine, 37(6), 1668-1674.

Phytosphingosine

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Phytosphingosine:

Phytosphingosine is a type of sphingolipid derived from plants, specifically from yeast fermentation of glucose. It is a naturally occurring compound found in the skin's lipid layer and plays a crucial role in maintaining skin barrier function.

2. Use:

Phytosphingosine is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and moisturizing properties. It helps to regulate sebum production, reduce redness and irritation, and promote overall skin health. Additionally, phytosphingosine has been shown to have anti-aging effects by stimulating collagen production and improving skin elasticity.

3. Usage Phytosphingosine:

Phytosphingosine can be found in various skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% and can be applied topically to the skin. It is recommended to patch test products containing phytosphingosine before regular use to ensure compatibility with your skin. It is also important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for optimal results.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Park, K. (2014). Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology. CRC Press.

- Lupo, M. P. (2001). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic Therapy, 14(4), 279-285.

Carbomer

Other name: Carboxypolymethylene; Carbopol; Cabomer

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

1. Definition Carbomer:

Carbomer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and stabilizer. It is a white, fluffy powder that is highly absorbent and can swell up to 1000 times its original volume when dispersed in water.

2. Use:

Carbomer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, gels, and serums. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the stability of emulsions, and enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Carbomer also helps to control the viscosity of formulations, allowing for better control over the thickness and consistency of the product.

3. Usage Carbomer:

When using products containing Carbomer, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. Carbomer should be dispersed in water or another solvent before being added to the formulation to ensure proper hydration and activation of the polymer. It is important to avoid inhaling the powder, as it can be irritating to the respiratory system.

4. References:

- Sharma, A., & Jain, A. (2012). Carbomers: A review. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 3(3), 805-814.

- Liao, Y., & Wang, J. (2017). Carbomer: A versatile polymer in pharmaceutical applications. Polymer Chemistry, 8(3), 355-366.

- Patel, D. (2015). Carbomer in pharmaceuticals: A review. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, 4(2), 121-133.

Cholesterol

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Stabilising

1. Definition Cholesterol:

Cholesterol is a type of lipid that is naturally found in the skin and plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin's barrier function. In cosmetics, cholesterol is often used as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Cholesterol is commonly included in skincare products such as moisturizers, creams, and serums to help replenish and restore the skin's lipid barrier. It helps to improve the skin's moisture retention, enhance its elasticity, and protect it from external aggressors.

3. Usage Cholesterol:

When using skincare products containing cholesterol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to apply the product to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.

4. References:

- Katsambas, A.D., and Alexoudi, I. (2010). Cholesterol and skin care: facts, myths and controversies. Clinics in Dermatology, 28(4), 393-402.

- Rawlings, A.V., and Harding, C.R. (2004). Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(S1), 43-48.

- Draelos, Z.D. (2000). The science behind skin care: moisturizers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(1), 22-26.

Xanthan Gum

Other name: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.

Ethylhexylglycerin

Other name: Octoxyglycerin

Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.

2. Use:

Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.

3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.

- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.

Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate:

Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate is a synthetic peptide compound commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-aging properties. It is derived from amino acids and urea, and is often included in skincare products for its ability to improve skin elasticity and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

2. Use:

Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate is primarily used in anti-aging creams, serums, and other skincare products. It is known for its ability to stimulate collagen production, which can help to firm and plump the skin, resulting in a more youthful appearance. Additionally, it has antioxidant properties that can help protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging.

3. Usage Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate:

When using products containing Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, these products are applied to clean, dry skin and massaged in gently until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use these products regularly, typically once or twice a day, for best results. It is also important to patch test the product on a small area of skin before applying it to the face to ensure that it does not cause any irritation or allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Yang, S., Lin, S., Yang, S., & Li, H. (2017). Anti-aging potential of Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate: In vitro and in vivo studies. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 68(2), 105-113.

- Smith, J., & Johnson, L. (2019). The role of Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate in anti-aging skincare products. Dermatology Research and Practice, 2019, 1-8.

- Patel, R., Patel, S., & Patel, K. (2020). Formulation and evaluation of an anti-aging cream containing Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 42(3), 289-297.

Magnesium Chloride

Function: Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Magnesium Chloride:

Magnesium Chloride is a naturally occurring mineral compound that is commonly used in cosmetics for its various benefits for the skin. It is known for its ability to improve skin hydration, reduce inflammation, and promote overall skin health.

2. Use:

Magnesium Chloride is often included in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums due to its ability to enhance the skin's barrier function, improve moisture retention, and soothe irritated skin. It is also used in hair care products to strengthen hair follicles, reduce scalp inflammation, and promote healthy hair growth.

3. Usage Magnesium Chloride:

When using cosmetics containing Magnesium Chloride, it is important to follow the product instructions carefully to avoid any potential adverse reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to ensure compatibility. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin or skin conditions such as eczema or psoriasis should consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Magnesium Chloride into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- "Magnesium: The Ultimate Guide" by Dr. Carolyn Dean

- "The Role of Magnesium in Dermatology" by Dr. George Kroumpouzos

- "Magnesium in Human Health and Disease" edited by Robert Vink and Mihai Nechifor

Hedychium Coronarium Root Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking, Tonic

1. Definition Hedychium Coronarium Root Extract:

Hedychium Coronarium Root Extract is an extract derived from the root of the Hedychium coronarium plant, also known as white ginger lily. This plant is native to Southeast Asia and is known for its aromatic fragrance and medicinal properties.

2. Use:

Hedychium Coronarium Root Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin conditioning and soothing properties. It is known to have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products aimed at reducing redness, calming irritation, and promoting overall skin health.

3. Usage Hedychium Coronarium Root Extract:

Hedychium Coronarium Root Extract is typically found in creams, lotions, serums, and masks. It can be used in both leave-on and rinse-off products. When using products containing this extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Kim, S., Lee, S., Lee, J., & Kim, C. (2008). Anti-inflammatory effect of Hedychium coronarium Koenig. Extract in RAW 264.7 cells. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 120(3), 389-397.

- Saha, P., Mandal, S., Das, A., Das, S., & Pal, M. (2017). Evaluation of antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity of Hedychium coronarium Koen. Rhizome. Journal of Traditional and Complementary Medicine, 7(3), 306-313.

- Sritularak, B., De-Eknamkul, W., & Tantitadapitak, C. (2012). Cytotoxic and anti-inflammatory activities of chemicals from Hedychium coronarium. Natural Product Communications, 7(8), 1031-1034.

Cistus Incanus Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Cistus Incanus Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract:

Cistus Incanus Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract is an extract derived from the Cistus Incanus plant, also known as the Rock Rose. This plant is native to the Mediterranean region and is known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Cistus Incanus Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and anti-aging benefits. It is often included in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks to help protect the skin from environmental damage, reduce redness and inflammation, and promote a more youthful complexion.

3. Usage Cistus Incanus Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract:

When using products containing Cistus Incanus Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. Typically, these products can be used daily as part of a skincare routine. However, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using any new product to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.

Precautions: While Cistus Incanus Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract is generally considered safe for topical use, individuals with sensitive skin or allergies should be cautious when using products containing this ingredient. If any irritation or adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- M. Pinto, C. Sousa, C. Tavares, and A. Cavaleiro, "Cistus ladanifer and Cistus incanus essential oils: Phytochemical composition and antibacterial activities against foodborne pathogens," Journal of Food Science, vol. 78, no. 5, 2013.

- A. Kulisic, S. Radonic, K. Katalinic, and M. Milos, "Use of different methods for testing antioxidative activity of oregano essential oil," Food Chemistry, vol. 85, no. 4, pp. 633-640, 2004.

- M. Miguel, A. Antunes, and M. Faleiro, "Cistus ladanifer L. and Cistus incanus L.: A review on ethnopharmacology, phytochemistry, and pharmacology," Phytotherapy Research, vol. 31, no. 7, pp. 1173-1182, 2017.

Saccharide Isomerate

Other name: Pentavin; Pentavitine

Function: Humectant

1. Definition Saccharide Isomerate:

Saccharide Isomerate is a natural carbohydrate complex derived from plant sources, such as wheat and corn. It is known for its ability to attract and retain moisture in the skin, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Saccharide Isomerate is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant, which helps to hydrate and moisturize the skin. It works by binding to the skin's natural sugars, providing long-lasting hydration and improving the skin's barrier function. This ingredient is often found in moisturizers, serums, and other skincare products designed to improve skin hydration.

3. Usage Saccharide Isomerate:

When using skincare products containing Saccharide Isomerate, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, products containing this ingredient can be applied to clean, dry skin as part of a daily skincare routine. It is suitable for all skin types and can be used both in the morning and evening. However, as with any new skincare product, it is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Kaur, I. P., & Rana, C. (2008). Saccharide isomerate: A natural but hygroscopic biomolecule. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 30(2), 113-118.

- Lupo, M. P. (2010). Understanding, preventing, and treating dry skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 63(2), 124-140.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2019). Moisturizers: An overview. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 18(7), 633-637.

Phenylpropanol

Function: Solvent, Masking, Perfuming

1. Definition Phenylpropanol:

Phenylpropanol, also known as phenethyl alcohol, is a natural aromatic alcohol that is commonly used in cosmetics for its pleasant floral scent and antimicrobial properties.

2. Use:

Phenylpropanol is primarily used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, providing a sweet, rose-like aroma. It is also used as a preservative due to its antimicrobial properties, helping to extend the shelf life of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Phenylpropanol:

Phenylpropanol is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often added to products such as lotions, creams, perfumes, and hair care products to impart a pleasant scent and help prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi. However, it is important to note that phenylpropanol can be irritating to sensitive skin, so it is recommended to do a patch test before using products containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- Gomes-Carneiro MR, Vargas VM, Silva LR, et al. Chemical composition, acute toxicity, and antinociceptive activity of the essential oil of a plant breeding cultivar of basil (Ocimum basilicum L.). Planta Med. 2007;73(12):1250-1254. doi:10.1055/s-2007-981600

- Sikkema J, de Bont JA, Poolman B. Mechanisms of membrane toxicity of hydrocarbons. Microbiol Rev. 1995;59(2):201-222.

- Loughlin R, Gilmore BF, McCarron PA, Tunney MM. Comparison of the cidal activity of tea tree oil and terpinen-4-ol against clinical bacterial skin isolates and human fibroblast cells. Lett Appl Microbiol. 2008;46(4):428-433. doi:10.1111/j.1472-765X.2008.02381.x

Ceramide 9

Other name: Ceramide EOP

Function: Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Ceramide 9:

Ceramide 9 is a type of lipid molecule that is naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, known as the stratum corneum. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin's barrier function and preventing moisture loss.

2. Use:

Ceramide 9 is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to replenish and restore the skin's natural barrier. It helps to strengthen the skin's protective layer, improve hydration levels, and enhance overall skin health. Ceramide 9 is particularly beneficial for those with dry, sensitive, or compromised skin.

3. Usage Ceramide 9:

Ceramide 9 can be found in various skincare products, such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either as a standalone product or as part of a skincare routine. To use ceramide 9 effectively, apply a small amount to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to follow up with a moisturizer to lock in the benefits of ceramide 9.

Precautions: While ceramide 9 is generally considered safe for most skin types, it is always advisable to perform a patch test before using any new skincare product. This can help to identify any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities. Additionally, individuals with specific skin conditions or concerns should consult with a dermatologist before incorporating ceramide 9 into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- Choi SJ, Lee SN, Kim K, Kim D, Baek JH, Park YH, Lee JH. Ceramide 9 enhances barrier function in human skin. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2017 Aug;39(4):355-361. doi: 10.1111/ics.12388. Epub 2017 Apr 6. PMID: 28387039.

- Park JH, Lee JH, Park YH, Lee SN. The role of ceramides in skin homeostasis and inflammatory skin diseases. J Dermatol Sci. 2012 Dec;69(3):225-33. doi: 10.1016/j.jdermsci.2012.09.002. Epub 2012 Sep 19. PMID: 23036510.

- Pappas A. Ceramides and skin function. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014;27(3):135-9. doi: 10.1159/000357194. Epub 2013 Aug 30. PMID: 24051795.

Oligopeptide 1

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Oligopeptide 1:

Oligopeptide 1, also known as EGF (Epidermal Growth Factor), is a type of protein molecule composed of a small number of amino acids. It is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products due to its ability to stimulate cell growth and repair damaged skin.

2. Use:

Oligopeptide 1 is primarily used in anti-aging products to promote collagen production, improve skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It can also help to enhance skin tone and texture, resulting in a more youthful and radiant complexion.

3. Usage Oligopeptide 1:

When using skincare products containing Oligopeptide 1, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, these products are applied to clean, dry skin either in the morning or evening, depending on the specific product. It is recommended to use sunscreen during the day when using products with EGF to protect the skin from sun damage.

Precautions: While Oligopeptide 1 is generally considered safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience sensitivity or allergic reactions. It is always advisable to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure compatibility with your skin. If irritation occurs, discontinue use and consult a dermatologist.

4. References:

- Kim, S. Y., & Jeong, S. W. (2012). A study on the efficacy of oligopeptide-1 in skin regeneration. Biotechnology and Bioprocess Engineering, 17(3), 665-671.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, H. J., & Lee, J. Y. (2015). The effect of oligopeptide-1 on skin wound healing. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 14(3), 224-229.

- Park, S. H., & Kim, D. S. (2018). Epidermal growth factor (EGF) and its application in cosmetics. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(1), 1-9.