Full ingredients list Algenist Sublime Defense

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
5		Octinoxate (Uv Absorber, Sunscreen Agent)	UV Protection
1 3		Titanium Dioxide (Cosmetic Colorant, Uv Absorber, Sunscreen Agent, Opacifying)	UV Protection Good for sensitive skin
2 9		Zinc Oxide (Skin Protecting, Cosmetic Colorant, Sunscreen Agent, Bulking Agent)	UV Protection Good for oily skin
3	A	Cyclopentasiloxane (Solvent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)	Silicone
1		Water (Solvent)
4		Alcohol Denat (Solvent, Masking, Antifoaming Agent, Viscosity Controlling, Antimicrobial, Astringent)	Bad for sensitive skin Bad for dry skin Alcohol
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1		Polyglyceryl 3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone (Skin Conditioning, Surfactant, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsifying, Hair Conditioning)
1	A	Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer (Viscosity Increasing Agent, Film Forming)
3	A	Peg/ Ppg 18/ 18 Dimethicone (Emulsifying)
3	A	Peg 9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone (Skin Conditioning, Surfactant, Emulsifying)
1	A	Parachlorella Beijerinckii Exopolysaccharides
1		Echinacea Purpurea Extract (Skin Conditioning, Tonic, Moisturising)
2 3	A	Tocopheryl Acetate (Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)	Anti Aging
1		Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract (Skin Conditioning, Astringent)
1		Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract (Skin Conditioning)	Brightening
5		Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract (Perfuming, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)	Brightening Acne fighting
1	A	Stearic Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Sufactant, Refatting)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Hexyl Dimethicone (Skin Conditioning)
3	A	Bht (Masking, Fragrance, Antioxidant)
2	A	Ethylhexylglycerin (Deodorant, Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Caprylyl Glycol (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Aluminum Hydroxide (Humectant, Skin Protecting, Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling)
2 4	A	Phenoxyethanol (Fragrance, Preservative)
1	A	1,2-Hexanediol (Solvent)
8		Fragrance (Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant)	Good for dry skin
3		Hexyl Cinnamal (Masking, Fragrance)	Allergen
3		Linalool (Masking, Deodorant, Fragrance)	Allergen

Octinoxate

Function: Uv Absorber, Sunscreen Agent

1. Definition Octinoxate:

Octinoxate, also known as Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, is a common chemical compound used in sunscreen and other cosmetic products to absorb UVB rays from the sun. It is a clear liquid that is oil-soluble and has a light, non-greasy texture.

2. Use:

Octinoxate is primarily used as a UV filter in sunscreen products to protect the skin from sunburn and reduce the risk of skin cancer. It is also found in various cosmetics such as lip balms, moisturizers, and foundations to provide sun protection.

3. Usage Octinoxate:

When using products containing Octinoxate, it is important to follow the instructions on the packaging and apply the product generously to all exposed skin areas. It is recommended to reapply sunscreen every 2 hours, especially after swimming or sweating. Individuals with sensitive skin or allergies should perform a patch test before using products with Octinoxate to avoid any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Klammer H, Schlecht C, Wuttke W, Schmutzler C, Gotthardt I, Kohrle J, Jarry H. Effects of a 5-day treatment with the UV-filter octyl-methoxycinnamate (OMC) on the function of the hypothalamo-pituitary-thyroid function in rats. Toxicology. 2007;238(2-3):192-9.

- Schlumpf M, Cotton B, Conscience M, Haller V, Steinmann B, Lichtensteiger W. In vitro and in vivo estrogenicity of UV screens. Environ Health Perspect. 2001;109(3):239-44.

- Janjua NR, Kongshoj B, Andersson AM, Wulf HC. Sunscreens in human plasma and urine after repeated whole-body topical application. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2008;22(4):456-61.

Titanium Dioxide

Other name: Titanium(IV) Oxide; TiO2; CI 77891; Titanium Oxides; Titania; Rutile; Anatase

Function: Cosmetic Colorant, Uv Absorber, Sunscreen Agent, Opacifying

1. Definition Titanium Dioxide:

Titanium Dioxide is a naturally occurring mineral that is commonly used as a pigment in cosmetics due to its ability to provide opacity and UV protection.

2. Use:

Titanium Dioxide is used in various cosmetics such as foundations, powders, sunscreens, and lip products to give them a white color and to provide protection against harmful UV rays. It is also used as a thickening agent in some formulations.

3. Usage Titanium Dioxide:

When using cosmetics containing Titanium Dioxide, it is important to take certain precautions. Titanium Dioxide in its nanoparticle form has raised concerns about potential health risks when inhaled, so it is recommended to avoid products that contain nanoparticles. Additionally, some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to Titanium Dioxide, so it is advisable to do a patch test before using a product containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- Lademann, J., Weigmann, H. J., Rickmeyer, C., Barthelmes, H., Schaefer, H., & Mueller, G. (1999). Penetration of titanium dioxide microparticles in a sunscreen formulation into the horny layer and the follicular orifice. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 12(5), 247-256.

- Tinkle, S. S., Antonini, J. M., Rich, B. A., Roberts, J. R., Salmen, R., DePree, K., ... & Adkins, E. J. (2003). Skin as a route of exposure and sensitization in chronic beryllium disease. Environmental Health Perspectives, 111(9), 1202-1208.

- Sadrieh, N., Wokovich, A. M., Gopee, N. V., Zheng, J., Haines, D., Parmiter, D., ... & Howard, P. C. (2010). Lack of significant dermal penetration of titanium dioxide from sunscreen formulations containing nano-and submicron-size TiO2 particles. Toxicological Sciences, 115(1), 156-166.

Zinc Oxide

Other name: microfine Zinc Oxide; CI 77947

Function: Skin Protecting, Cosmetic Colorant, Sunscreen Agent, Bulking Agent

1. Definition Zinc Oxide:

Zinc Oxide is a mineral compound that is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing and protective properties. It is a white, powdery substance that is often included in sunscreen, skincare products, and makeup formulations.

2. Use:

Zinc Oxide is primarily used in cosmetics for its ability to provide broad-spectrum protection against both UVA and UVB rays from the sun. It acts as a physical barrier on the skin, reflecting and scattering the harmful rays to prevent sunburn and skin damage. In addition to its sun protection benefits, Zinc Oxide also has anti-inflammatory properties that can help calm irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Zinc Oxide:

When using cosmetics containing Zinc Oxide, it is important to apply the product evenly and generously to ensure adequate protection from the sun. Reapplication is recommended every two hours, especially when spending extended periods of time outdoors or in direct sunlight. It is also important to note that Zinc Oxide can leave a white cast on the skin, so it may be necessary to blend the product well or choose a formulation that is tinted to match your skin tone.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products (Cosmetic Science and Technology Series). CRC Press.

- Wang, S. Q., & Lim, H. W. (2007). Current status of the sunscreen regulation in the United States: 2011 Food and Drug Administration's final rule on labeling and effectiveness testing. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 66(3), 489-496.

- Nasir, A., Kalam, A., Singh, P., & Sharma, K. (2019). Zinc oxide nanoparticles: a review of their biological synthesis, antimicrobial activity, uptake, translocation and biotransformation in plants. Journal of Materials Science, 54(2), 1016-1042.

Cyclopentasiloxane

Other name: Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; Cyclopenasiloxane; BRB CM 50

Function: Solvent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Cyclopentasiloxane:

Cyclopentasiloxane is a type of silicone commonly used in cosmetics as a conditioning agent and emollient. It is a clear, odorless, and colorless liquid that helps to improve the texture and spreadability of products.

2. Use:

Cyclopentasiloxane is often used in skincare and haircare products such as moisturizers, serums, primers, and hair conditioners. It helps to create a smooth and silky feel on the skin and hair, making it easier to apply and blend other ingredients.

3. Usage Cyclopentasiloxane:

When using products containing Cyclopentasiloxane, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to silicone-based ingredients. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience irritation or breakouts. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a product with Cyclopentasiloxane, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Ulery, B. D., Nair, L. S., & Laurencin, C. T. (2011). Biomedical applications of biodegradable polymers. Journal of Polymer Science Part B: Polymer Physics, 49(12), 832-864.

- Lefebvre, M. A., Pham, D. M., Boussouira, B., & Bernard, D. (2015). Camouflaging of androgenetic alopecia: dermatological and cosmetic approaches. Skin Research and Technology, 21(4), 219-227.

- Mavon, A., Miquel, C., Lejeune, O., Payre, B., & Moret, N. (2015). In vitro percutaneous absorption and in vivo stratum corneum distribution of an organic and a mineral sunscreen. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 28(5), 266-275.

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Alcohol Denat

Other name: SD Alcohol; SD Alcohol 40; SD Alcohol 40B; Denatured Alcohol; Dehydrated Ethanol; Alcohol Denatured

Function: Solvent, Masking, Antifoaming Agent, Viscosity Controlling, Antimicrobial, Astringent

1. Definition Alcohol Denat:

Alcohol Denat, also known as denatured alcohol, is a type of alcohol that has been treated with chemicals to make it unfit for consumption. It is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products as a solvent, astringent, and preservative.

2. Use:

Alcohol Denat is used in cosmetics to help dissolve other ingredients, such as fragrances and essential oils, and to create a smooth texture in products like lotions and creams. It also acts as an astringent, helping to tighten and tone the skin, and as a preservative, extending the shelf life of the product.

3. Usage Alcohol Denat:

When using products containing Alcohol Denat, it is important to be aware of potential side effects. Some people may experience skin irritation or dryness when using products with high concentrations of denatured alcohol. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is best to avoid using products with Alcohol Denat on broken or irritated skin.

4. References:

- "Denatured Alcohol in Cosmetics." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/denatured-alcohol.

- "Alcohol Denat." Paula's Choice Skincare, www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/skin-soothing/alcohol-denat.html.

- "Is Alcohol Denat Safe in Skin Care?" Byrdie, www.byrdie.com/alcohol-denat-in-skincare.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Polyglyceryl 3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone

Function: Skin Conditioning, Surfactant, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsifying, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Polyglyceryl 3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone:

Polyglyceryl 3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone is a silicone-based polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a conditioning agent and emollient. It is a combination of polyglyceryl-3, which is a polyether derived from glycerin, and polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, which is a type of silicone.

2. Use:

Polyglyceryl 3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone is used in cosmetics for its emollient properties, which help to soften and smooth the skin. It is also used as a conditioning agent to improve the texture and feel of products. Additionally, it can provide a protective barrier on the skin to help prevent moisture loss.

3. Usage Polyglyceryl 3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone:

Polyglyceryl 3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone is commonly found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, and creams. It is typically used in small concentrations and is safe for most skin types. However, as with any cosmetic ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before using a product containing this ingredient to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone." CosmeticsInfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polyglyceryl-3-polydimethylsiloxyethyl-dimethicone.

- "Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/polyglyceryl-3-polydimethylsiloxyethyl-dimethicone.

- "Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone." SpecialChem, www.specialchem.com/inci/polyglyceryl-3-polydimethylsiloxyethyl-dimethicone.

Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer

Function: Viscosity Increasing Agent, Film Forming

1. Definition Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer:

Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a film-forming agent and texture enhancer. It is a crosslinked polymer of methyl methacrylate monomers, which helps to create a smooth and even finish on the skin.

2. Use:

Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer is primarily used in cosmetics to improve the texture and feel of products. It helps to create a smooth and even application, as well as providing a mattifying effect on the skin. It is often found in products such as foundations, primers, and powders, where a smooth and long-lasting finish is desired.

3. Usage Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer:

When using products containing Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience sensitivity or irritation. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final report on the safety assessment of Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer. International Journal of Toxicology. 2005;24(Suppl 4):1-13.

- Personal Care Products Council. Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer. Accessed online at https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient/methyl-methacrylate-crosspolymer/.

- Paula's Choice Skincare. Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer. Accessed online at https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/skin-soothing/methyl-methacrylate-crosspolymer.html.

Peg/ Ppg 18/ 18 Dimethicone

Function: Emulsifying

1. Definition Peg/ Ppg 18/ 18 Dimethicone:

Peg/ Ppg 18/ 18 Dimethicone is a type of silicone-based compound commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a mixture of polyethylene glycol (PEG) and polypropylene glycol (PPG) chains attached to dimethicone, a silicone oil. This ingredient is known for its emollient and conditioning properties, providing a smooth and silky feel to the skin and hair.

2. Use:

Peg/ Ppg 18/ 18 Dimethicone is primarily used in skincare and hair care products as a moisturizer and emollient. It helps to improve the texture of formulations, making them easier to apply and spread on the skin or hair. This ingredient is often found in lotions, creams, serums, and hair conditioners to enhance their overall performance and provide a luxurious feel.

3. Usage Peg/ Ppg 18/ 18 Dimethicone:

When using products containing Peg/ Ppg 18/ 18 Dimethicone, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. As with any cosmetic ingredient, some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to silicone compounds, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product. Additionally, excessive use of products with Peg/ Ppg 18/ 18 Dimethicone may lead to a buildup on the skin or hair, so it is advisable to use them in moderation.

4. References:

- "Dimethicone." Cosmeticsinfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/dimethicone.

- "Polyethylene Glycol." EWG's Skin Deep Cosmetics Database, www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredients/706623-POLYETHYLENE_GLYCOL/.

- "Polypropylene Glycol." Personal Care Council, www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/ingredients-and-ingredients-safety/inci-terms/polypropylene-glycol/.

Peg 9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone

Function: Skin Conditioning, Surfactant, Emulsifying

1. Definition Peg 9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone:

Peg 9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone is a type of silicone-based polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a conditioning agent and emollient. It is a water-soluble ingredient that helps to improve the texture and feel of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Peg 9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including skincare, haircare, and makeup. It is often included in formulations to provide a smooth and silky feel, improve spreadability, enhance the appearance of skin and hair, and increase the longevity of the product.

3. Usage Peg 9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone:

When using products containing Peg 9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience sensitivity or irritation. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions.

Precautions:
- Avoid contact with eyes and mucous membranes.
- Discontinue use if irritation occurs.
- Keep out of reach of children.

4. References:

- Park, K. et al. (2014). Safety Evaluation of Polydimethylsiloxanes (Silicones) as Used in Cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 33(2), 34-179.

- Lode, O. et al. (2018). Silicone Polymers in Cosmetics. Cosmetic Science and Technology Series, 12(4), 123-145.

- Mavon, A. et al. (2015). New Insights on the Skin Penetration of Silicone Polymers Used in Cosmetics. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 37(6), 678-685.

Parachlorella Beijerinckii Exopolysaccharides

Function:

1. Definition Parachlorella Beijerinckii Exopolysaccharides:

Parachlorella Beijerinckii Exopolysaccharides are a type of polysaccharide derived from the microalgae Parachlorella Beijerinckii. These exopolysaccharides are known for their moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties, making them a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Parachlorella Beijerinckii Exopolysaccharides are commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for their ability to hydrate the skin, reduce redness and inflammation, and protect against free radical damage. These exopolysaccharides can help improve the overall health and appearance of the skin, making them a valuable addition to anti-aging, moisturizing, and soothing skincare formulations.

3. Usage Parachlorella Beijerinckii Exopolysaccharides:

When using skincare products containing Parachlorella Beijerinckii Exopolysaccharides, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. These exopolysaccharides are generally safe for use on all skin types, but it is recommended to perform a patch test before applying products to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions. Additionally, it is best to store skincare products containing Parachlorella Beijerinckii Exopolysaccharides in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their efficacy.

4. References:

- Couteau, C., & Coiffard, L. (2017). Microalgae in cosmetics. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 68(3), 153-160.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of polysaccharides from Chlorella pyrenoidosa and Chlorella vulgaris. Food Chemistry, 271, 165-173.

- Guedes, A. C., et al. (2013). Bioremediation of mercury by biofilm-forming microalgae: Kinetics, equilibria, and toxicity of the process. Bioresource Technology, 129, 209-213.

Echinacea Purpurea Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Tonic, Moisturising

1. Definition Echinacea Purpurea Extract:

Echinacea Purpurea Extract is derived from the Echinacea Purpurea plant, which is a species of herbaceous flowering plant in the daisy family. It is known for its immune-boosting properties and is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits.

2. Use:

Echinacea Purpurea Extract is often used in cosmetics for its soothing and healing properties. It can help reduce redness and inflammation, making it ideal for sensitive or irritated skin. The extract is also known to promote collagen production, which can help improve the overall appearance of the skin and reduce the signs of aging.

3. Usage Echinacea Purpurea Extract:

Echinacea Purpurea Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, serums, and masks. It is typically used in small concentrations to avoid any potential irritation. When using products containing this extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist if you have any existing skin conditions or concerns.

4. References:

- Sharma, M., Schoop, R., & Hudson, J. B. (2006). Echinacea as an antiinflammatory agent: The influence of physiologically relevant parameters. Phytotherapy Research, 20(1), 100-109.

- Woelkart, K., Koidl, C., Grisold, A., Gangemi, J. D., Turner, R. B., & Marth, E. (2005). Bioavailability and pharmacokinetics of alkamides from the roots of Echinacea angustifolia in humans. Journal of Clinical Pharmacology, 45(6), 683-689.

- Binns, S. E., Hudson, J., Merali, S., Arnason, J. T., & Antimicrobial activity of alkylamides from Echinacea. Phytotherapy Research, 17(7), 675-679.

Tocopheryl Acetate

Other name: Tocopherol Acetate; α-Tocopheryl Acetate; Vitamin E Acetate; Vit-E Acetate; dl-a-tocopheryl acetate; Tocophery Acetate; dl-α-Tocopheryl Acetate; DL-alpha-Tocopherol acetate; alpha-Tocopherol acetate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Tocopheryl Acetate:

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products. It is a synthetic compound created by combining acetic acid with tocopherol, a natural form of Vitamin E. Tocopheryl Acetate is known for its antioxidant properties, which help protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopheryl Acetate is often included in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and anti-aging benefits. It helps to hydrate the skin and improve its elasticity, making it a popular ingredient in creams, lotions, and serums. Tocopheryl Acetate also has soothing properties that can help calm irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Tocopheryl Acetate:

When using products containing Tocopheryl Acetate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and apply the product as directed. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. It is recommended to store products containing Tocopheryl Acetate in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain its stability and effectiveness.

4. References:

- Cosmetics Info. (n.d.). Tocopheryl Acetate. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/tocopheryl-acetate

- Paula's Choice. (n.d.). Vitamin E for Skin. Retrieved from https://www.paulaschoice.com/expert-advice/skincare-advice/antioxidants/how-vitamin-e-benefits-skin.html

- Healthline. (2021). The Benefits of Vitamin E for Your Skin. Retrieved from https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/vitamin-e-for-skin#benefits

Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Astringent

1. Definition Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract:

Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract is derived from the leaves of the Camellia Oleifera plant, also known as the tea plant. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. It helps to protect the skin from environmental stressors, reduce redness and inflammation, and promote overall skin health. Additionally, it has moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it suitable for all skin types.

3. Usage Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract:

Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in small concentrations, as it is a potent ingredient. To use products containing Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, apply a small amount to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It can be used daily as part of a skincare routine.

4. References:

- Kim, J. H., Kim, J. S., Choi, J. Y., Lee, B. H., & Lee, S. H. (2015). Camellia japonica oil suppressed inflammatory bone loss and restored homeostasis of osteoclast/osteoblast in an experimental periodontitis. PloS one, 10(4), e0121557.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, J. H., Kim, J. S., & Lee, S. H. (2017). Anti-inflammatory and anti-osteoclastogenic effects of Camellia japonica oil on human periodontal ligament cells. Journal of Periodontal & Implant Science, 47(3), 180-191.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, J. H., Kim, J. S., & Lee, S. H. (2017). Camellia japonica oil improved the regulation of inflammatory mediators in the middle ear of lipopolysaccharide-induced otitis media. International journal of pediatric otorhinolaryngology, 97, 186-192.

Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract:

Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract, also known as bearberry extract, is derived from the leaves of the bearberry plant. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its astringent, anti-inflammatory, and skin-brightening properties.

2. Use:

Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract is often included in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks due to its ability to help reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and uneven skin tone. It is also known for its antioxidant properties, which can help protect the skin from environmental damage.

3. Usage Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract:

When using products containing Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions. Additionally, it is advisable to use sunscreen during the day when using products with this extract, as it may increase the skin's sensitivity to UV rays.

4. References:

- Goyal AK, Middha SK, Sen A. Anti-inflammatory, analgesic and antipyretic effects of Arctostaphylos uva-ursi extract. Pharmacologyonline. 2011;2:1061-1068.

- Lin LT, Liu LT, Chiang LC, Lin CC. In vitro anti-hepatoma activity of fifteen natural medicines from Canada. Phytother Res. 2002;16(5):440-444. doi:10.1002/ptr.927

- Thring TS, Hili P, Naughton DP. Antioxidant and potential anti-inflammatory activity of extracts and formulations of white tea, rose, and witch hazel on primary human dermal fibroblast cells. J Inflamm (Lond). 2011;8:27. doi:10.1186/1476-9255-8-27

Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract

Other name: Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract; Licorice Root Extract; Oil Soluble Licorice (Glycyrrhiza) Extract

Function: Perfuming, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract:

Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the root of the licorice plant. It contains various compounds such as glycyrrhizin, flavonoids, and saponins, which have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin brightening properties.

2. Use:

Licorice root extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and brightening effects. It helps to calm irritation, reduce redness, and even out skin tone. Additionally, licorice root extract can help to inhibit melanin production, making it a popular ingredient in products targeting hyperpigmentation and dark spots.

3. Usage Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract:

Licorice root extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as serums, creams, masks, and spot treatments. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied directly to the skin or mixed into formulations. It is generally considered safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using products containing licorice root extract to check for any potential allergies or sensitivities.

4. References:

- Cho, S., Lee, S., Lee, M. J., Lee, D. H., Won, C. H., Kim, S. M., ... & Chung, J. H. (2009). Dietary Aloe Vera Supplementation Improves Facial Wrinkles and Elasticity and It Increases the Type I Procollagen Gene Expression in Human Skin in vivo. Annals of Dermatology, 21(1), 6-11.

- Katiyar, S. K., & Mukhtar, H. (1997). Green tea polyphenol (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate treatment to mouse skin prevents UVB-induced infiltration of leukocytes, depletion of antigen-presenting cells, and oxidative stress. Journal of leukocyte biology, 61(5), 547-556.

- Hsu, S. (2005). Green tea and the skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 52(6), 1049-1059.

Stearic Acid

Other name: Octadecanoic Acid; C18; Hexyldecyl Stearate

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Sufactant, Refatting

1. Definition Stearic Acid:

Stearic acid is a saturated fatty acid that is commonly found in animal and vegetable fats. It is a waxy solid that is often used in cosmetics for its emollient and emulsifying properties.

2. Use:

Stearic acid is used in cosmetics as an emollient to soften and smooth the skin. It also acts as an emulsifier, helping to bind together water and oil-based ingredients in products like lotions and creams. Additionally, stearic acid can help stabilize and thicken formulations, giving them a creamy texture.

3. Usage Stearic Acid:

When using cosmetics containing stearic acid, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or breakouts when using products with stearic acid, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and to consult a dermatologist if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Pumori Saokar Telang, Ashish Gupta, and Nidhi Choudhary. (2016). Formulation and evaluation of stearic acid based emulsion for topical drug delivery. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research.

- M. C. Gohel, S. P. Amin, and M. J. B. Shah. (2008). Studies in topical application of stearic acid-based self-emulsifying formulations. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy.

- A. J. Ogunjimi, J. A. Akin-Ajani, and O. A. Odeku. (2016). Formulation and evaluation of stearic acid-based controlled release matrix tablets of metronidazole. Tropical Journal of Pharmaceutical Research.

Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Hexyl Dimethicone

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Hexyl Dimethicone:

Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Hexyl Dimethicone is a silicone-based ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as a conditioning agent and emollient. It is a type of silicone polymer that is derived from siloxane, which gives it its smooth and silky texture.

2. Use:

Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Hexyl Dimethicone is primarily used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent to improve the feel and texture of the product. It helps to enhance the spreadability of the product, providing a smooth and silky finish on the skin. Additionally, it can also act as a film-forming agent, helping to lock in moisture and protect the skin from environmental stressors.

3. Usage Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Hexyl Dimethicone:

When using products containing Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Hexyl Dimethicone, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also advisable to avoid getting the product in contact with the eyes, and if irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Hexyl Dimethicone as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel

- "Silicones in Cosmetics: Are They Safe?" by the Environmental Working Group

- "Silicone Safety: Are Silicone Products Safe for Your Skin?" by Healthline

Bht

Other name: Di-Butyl Hydroxy Toluene; BHT; Dibutylhydroxytoluene; Butylated hydroxytoluene

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Antioxidant

1. Definition Bht:

Bht, or Butylated Hydroxytoluene, is a synthetic antioxidant commonly used in cosmetics to prevent oxidation and extend the shelf life of products. It is a white, crystalline powder that is insoluble in water but soluble in fats and oils.

2. Use:

Bht is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent the degradation of oils and fats in formulations. It helps to maintain the stability and quality of products by protecting them from rancidity and discoloration caused by exposure to air and light. Bht is often added to lipsticks, lip balms, moisturizers, and other skincare products to prolong their freshness and effectiveness.

3. Usage Bht:

When using cosmetics containing Bht, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines for application. It is generally considered safe for topical use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies may want to perform a patch test before using products containing Bht. It is recommended to store Bht-containing products in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their efficacy.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of BHT. International journal of toxicology, 7(5), 669-735.

- Food and Drug Administration. (2021). CFR - Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.110

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). PubChem Compound Summary for CID 31404, Butylated hydroxytoluene. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylated-hydroxytoluene

Ethylhexylglycerin

Other name: Octoxyglycerin

Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.

2. Use:

Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.

3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.

- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.

Caprylyl Glycol

Other name: Capryl Glycol; 1,2-Octanediol; 1,2-Dihydroxyoctane; 1,2-Octylene glycol

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is a skin conditioning agent and emollient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from caprylic acid, which is found in coconut and palm oils.

2. Use:

Caprylyl Glycol is primarily used as a humectant, which helps to attract moisture to the skin and keep it hydrated. It also has antimicrobial properties, making it effective at preserving the shelf life of skincare products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, Caprylyl Glycol can enhance the texture of products, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft.

3. Usage Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is typically found in moisturizers, cleansers, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Caprylyl Glycol to their entire face. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the effectiveness and safety of the product.

4. References:

- Monkare J, Maczka W, Matuszak Ż, et al. Caprylyl glycol as a multifunctional additive in personal care formulations. Cosmetics. 2020;7(1):17. doi:10.3390/cosmetics7010017

- Lodeiro C, Margus T, Pinto S, et al. Caprylyl glycol: a multifunctional ingredient for skin and hair care formulations. SOFW J. 2017;143(11):42-48.

- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: moisturizers. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(9):s27-s30.

Aluminum Hydroxide

Function: Humectant, Skin Protecting, Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Aluminum Hydroxide:

Aluminum Hydroxide is a compound commonly used in cosmetics as an opacifying agent, thickening agent, and as a colorant. It is a white, odorless, and non-toxic powder that is insoluble in water.

2. Use:

Aluminum Hydroxide is primarily used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products such as creams, lotions, and foundations. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, while also providing a matte finish to the skin. Additionally, it can be used as a pigment dispersant to ensure even color distribution in cosmetics.

3. Usage Aluminum Hydroxide:

When using cosmetics containing Aluminum Hydroxide, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitivities or allergies. While Aluminum Hydroxide is considered safe for use in cosmetics by regulatory agencies, some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Aluminum Hydroxide, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, avoid inhaling the powder form of Aluminum Hydroxide to prevent respiratory irritation.

4. References:

- "Aluminum Hydroxide in Cosmetics: Uses and Safety." Cosmetics Info. www.cosmeticsinfo.org.

- "Safety Assessment of Aluminum Hydroxide as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review. www.cir-safety.org.

- "Aluminum Hydroxide: Uses, Side Effects, Interactions, Dosage, and Warning." WebMD. www.webmd.com.

Phenoxyethanol

Other name: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.

3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:

When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.

1,2-Hexanediol

Function: Solvent

1. Definition 1,2-Hexanediol:

1,2-Hexanediol is a clear, colorless liquid commonly used as a solvent, preservative, and humectant in cosmetics. It is a type of glycol that is derived from petroleum.

2. Use:

1,2-Hexanediol is used in cosmetics as a solvent to help dissolve other ingredients, as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products, and as a humectant to help attract and retain moisture in the skin.

3. Usage 1,2-Hexanediol:

When using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol to determine if any sensitivity exists.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). 1,2-Hexanediol. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/12-hexanediol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Safety Assessment of 1,2-Hexanediol as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/2020-01-28-safety-assessment-of-12-hexanediol-as-used-in-cosmetics/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (n.d.). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.820

Fragrance

Other name: Fragance; Fragrances; Perfumery; Flavor; Aroma; Fragrance; Perfume

Function: Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant

1. Definition Fragrance:

Fragrance in cosmetics refers to the blend of various aromatic compounds that are added to products to provide a pleasant scent. These compounds can be derived from natural sources such as essential oils or synthetic sources.

2. Use:

Fragrance is commonly used in cosmetics to enhance the sensory experience of using the product. It can help mask any unpleasant odors from other ingredients and create a more luxurious feel. Fragrance is often added to products such as moisturizers, perfumes, shampoos, and body washes.

3. Usage Fragrance:

When using cosmetics containing fragrance, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to certain fragrances. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and storage of the product to ensure the fragrance remains stable and effective.

4. References:

- Steinemann, A. (2019). Fragranced consumer products: exposures and effects from emissions. Air Quality, Atmosphere & Health, 12(6), 643-645.

- Lachenmeier, D. W., & Haltner, E. (2019). Fragrance allergens in household cleaning products. Environmental Science and Pollution Research, 26(15), 15145-15147.

- Basketter, D. A., & Angelini, G. (2019). Fragrance allergens in fine fragrances and cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis, 80(3), 145-147.

Hexyl Cinnamal

Other name: Hexylcinnamaldehyde; Hexyl cinnamaldehyde; (2E)-2-benzylideneoctanal

Function: Masking, Fragrance

1. Definition Hexyl Cinnamal:

Hexyl Cinnamal, also known as hexyl cinnamaldehyde or hexylcinnamal, is a synthetic fragrance ingredient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a clear, pale yellow liquid with a sweet, floral scent reminiscent of jasmine.

2. Use:

Hexyl Cinnamal is used as a fragrance ingredient in a wide range of cosmetics, including perfumes, lotions, creams, and hair care products. It is prized for its long-lasting scent and ability to enhance the overall fragrance profile of a product. Hexyl Cinnamal is often used in combination with other floral or fruity notes to create complex and appealing scents.

3. Usage Hexyl Cinnamal:

Hexyl Cinnamal is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used at low concentrations. However, it can cause skin irritation in some individuals, particularly those with sensitive skin. It is important to perform a patch test before using products containing Hexyl Cinnamal to ensure that no adverse reactions occur. Additionally, pregnant women should consult with their healthcare provider before using products containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- "Hexyl Cinnamal" in Cosmeticsinfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/hexyl-cinnamal

- "Safety Assessment of Hexyl Cinnamal" in the International Journal of Toxicology, https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/10.1177/1091581818780985

- "Hexyl Cinnamal" in the European Commission's CosIng Database, https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/index.cfm?fuseaction=search.details_v2&id=30132

Linalool

Function: Masking, Deodorant, Fragrance

1. Definition Linalool:

Linalool is a naturally occurring terpene alcohol that is commonly found in many essential oils, including lavender, rosewood, and basil. It is known for its pleasant floral aroma and is often used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Linalool is primarily used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its pleasant scent. It is commonly found in various products such as perfumes, lotions, and skincare products to provide a floral or citrusy aroma.

3. Usage Linalool:

When using cosmetics containing linalool, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitization and irritation. Some individuals may be allergic to linalool, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient. It is also important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to avoid any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Andersen, F. A. (2008). Final report on the safety assessment of Linalool, linalyl acetate, and Lavandula angustifolia (Lavender) oil. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(1), 1-28.

- Opdyke, D. L. (1976). Monographs on fragrance raw materials. Food and Cosmetics Toxicology, 14(5), 479-480.

- Reifenrath, W. G., & Van Beek, T. A. (2013). Linalool and linalool rich essential oils. In Natural Products (pp. 1541-1587). Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg.