Full ingredients list Allies of Skin Promise Keeper Blemish ...

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1	A	Butylene Glycol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents)	Good for dry skin
1	A	C12 15 Alkyl Benzoate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antimicrobial)
1	A	Niacinamide (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing)	Anti Aging Brightening
1		Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract (Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Hair Conditioning)
1		Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate (Skin Conditioning)
1		Octadecenedioic Acid (Emulsifying)
1		Polyacrylate Crosspolymer 6 (Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising)
1	A	Maltodextrin (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Absorbent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming, Suspending Agent - Nonsurfactant)
1	A	Rosa Canina Fruit Oil (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)	Fungal Acne Trigger
4 5		Silver (Colorant, Cosmetic Colorant)
1	A	Tapioca Starch (Viscosity Increasing Agent)
1		Dimethyl Isosorbide (Solvent, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Decreasing Agent)
2		Propanediol (Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1		Dicaprylyl Ether (Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1		Honey (Humectant, Emollient, Moisturising, Flavoring Agent)
		Syringa Vulgaris (Lilac) Leaf Cell Culture Extract
1		Palmitoyl Tripeptide 8 (Skin Conditioning)
1		Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract (Skin Conditioning)
		Mirabilis Jalapa Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract (Skin Conditioning)	Acne fighting
1	A	Phospholipids (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Hyaluronic Acid (Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Moisturising)	Promotes Wound Healing
1 3		Sphingolipids (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
		Rosmarinyl Glucoside (Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)
1		Caffeoyl Glucoside (Sufactant)
1		Gallyl Glucoside (Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)
1		Caffeine (Masking, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning)
1	B	Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract (Skin Conditioning)	Promotes Wound Healing
1		Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Pyruvic Acid (Masking, Fragrance)
1		Mandelic Acid (Antimicrobial, Exfoliant)	Anti Aging
1 4	B	Lactic Acid (Fragrance, Humectant, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Exfoliant, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Humectant)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin
1		Hydrolyzed Opuntia Ficus Indica Flower Extract (Skin Protecting, Abrasive)
1		Caprylhydroxamic Acid (Chelating Agent)
2	A	Ethylhexylglycerin (Deodorant, Skin Conditioning)
2 4	A	Phenoxyethanol (Fragrance, Preservative)
1	A	Dextran (Viscosity Controlling, Binding Agent, Binding, Bulking Agent)
1 2	B	O Cymen 5 Ol (Preservative, Cosmetic Biocide)
4 6	A	Benzyl Alcohol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Preservative, External Analgesic )	Allergen
1	A	Sodium Gluconate (Chelating Agent, Skin Conditioning)

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Butylene Glycol

Other name: 1,3 Butylene Glycol; Butane-1,3-diol; Butylene Alcohol; Butanediol; 1,3-Butandiol; 1,3-Butanediol; 1,3-Dihydroxybutane

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents

1. Definition Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is a small organic alcohol used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity-decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is derived from petroleum or natural gas.

2. Use:

Butylene Glycol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, a humectant to attract moisture to the skin, and a viscosity-decreasing agent to improve the texture and spreadability of the product. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve product absorption, and create a smooth, lightweight feel.

3. Usage Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to patch test products containing Butylene Glycol before use, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and avoid using products with Butylene Glycol if you have known allergies to similar ingredients.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2001). Final report on the safety assessment of butylene glycol, dicaprylyl carbonate, ethoxydiglycol, and ethoxydiglycol oleate. International Journal of Toxicology, 20(Suppl 4), 61-75.

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 24856, Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylene-glycol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2017). Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/butylene-glycol

C12 15 Alkyl Benzoate

Other name: C12-C15 alkyl benzoate; Alkyl (C12-C15) benzoate; Dodecyl benzoate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antimicrobial

1. Definition C12 15 Alkyl Benzoate:

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is an ester derived from benzoic acid and a mixture of alcohols with carbon chain lengths ranging from 12 to 15. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, skin conditioning agent, and solvent.

2. Use:

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is utilized in various cosmetic formulations such as sunscreens, moisturizers, and makeup products. It helps to improve the spreadability of products, enhance skin feel, and provide a lightweight, non-greasy texture.

3. Usage C12 15 Alkyl Benzoate:

When using products containing C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines and apply as directed on the product packaging. It is generally considered safe for topical application, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before widespread use to ensure compatibility.

Precautions: While C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. If any adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional. It is recommended to avoid contact with eyes and mucous membranes.

4. References:

- "C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate" in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 14th Edition.

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2003). Final report on the safety assessment of C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). CIR Expert Panel Reaffirms Safety of C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate in Cosmetics.

Niacinamide

Other name: Nicotinic acid amide; Nicotinamide

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing

1. Definition Niacinamide:

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that is commonly used in skincare products for its various benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Niacinamide is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, and dullness. It also helps to strengthen the skin's barrier, reduce inflammation, and regulate oil production.

3. Usage Niacinamide:

Niacinamide can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is typically applied topically to the skin and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing niacinamide.

Precautions: While niacinamide is generally considered safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience mild irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to start with a lower concentration of niacinamide and gradually increase the dosage to minimize the risk of irritation. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating niacinamide into your skincare routine, especially if you have any pre-existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Schagen, S. K., Zampeli, V. A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 298-307.

- Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7), 860-865.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.

See more: Understanding Niacinamide: All about "Skincare Superstar"

Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract:

Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the fermentation of pomegranate fruit by Lactobacillus bacteria. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that provide numerous benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-aging properties. It helps to promote collagen production, improve skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Additionally, this extract has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, making it effective in treating acne and other skin conditions.

3. Usage Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract:

Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract can be found in various skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. To use, apply a small amount of product containing the extract onto clean skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use products with this extract regularly for best results.

4. References:

- Kim, M., Kim, S. Y., & Park, J. (2013). Lactobacillus/Punica granatum extract ferment filtrate stimulates the proliferation of hair follicles through ERK and Akt activation. Experimental Dermatology, 22(4), 257-262.

- Lee, J., Kim, S., & Park, S. (2017). Anti-inflammatory and anti-melanogenic effects of Punica granatum peel ferment extract. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 16(3), 369-375.

- Lee, S., Kim, S., & Park, J. (2019). Antioxidant and anti-aging effects of Lactobacillus/Punica granatum extract ferment filtrate in human dermal fibroblasts. Journal of Dermatological Science, 93(3), 140-146.

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate

Other name: Potassium Azeloyl Diglycina; AZELOGLICINA; Potassium Azelaoyl Diglycinate

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate:

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate is a water-soluble derivative of azelaic acid, a naturally occurring acid found in grains like barley, wheat, and rye. It is commonly used in skincare products for its brightening, exfoliating, and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate is primarily used in cosmetics and skincare products as a skin brightening agent. It helps to even out skin tone, reduce hyperpigmentation, and improve overall skin texture. Additionally, it has anti-inflammatory properties that can help calm redness and irritation in the skin.

3. Usage Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate:

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate is typically found in serums, creams, and lotions targeted towards individuals looking to improve the appearance of their skin. It can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if you have sensitive skin or any concerns about using this ingredient.

4. References:

- Arif T. Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2015;8:455-61. doi: 10.2147/CCID.S84765. Epub 2015 Aug 7. PMID: 26347269; PMCID: PMC4554394.

- Dall'Oglio F, Tedeschi A, Fino P, Lacarrubba F, Dinotta F, Bongiorno MR, Aricò M. A new topical azelaic acid foam: treatment for acne. Expert Opin Pharmacother. 2013 Nov;14(16):2271-9. doi: 10.1517/14656566.2013.844174. Epub 2013 Oct 9. PMID: 24102681.

- Grimes PE. The safety and efficacy of salicylic acid chemical peels in darker racial-ethnic groups. Dermatol Surg. 1999 Jan;25(1):18-22. doi: 10.1046/j.1524-4725.1999.08164.x. PMID: 9935084.

Octadecenedioic Acid

Other name: Mediatone

Function: Emulsifying

1. Definition Octadecenedioic Acid:

Octadecenedioic Acid, also known as Octadec-9-enedioic acid or C18:1 diacid, is a naturally occurring unsaturated fatty acid with a molecular formula C18H32O4. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin brightening and anti-aging properties.

2. Use:

Octadecenedioic Acid is used in cosmetics as a skin lightening agent to reduce hyperpigmentation and even out skin tone. It is also known for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging products. Additionally, it helps to improve the overall texture and appearance of the skin.

3. Usage Octadecenedioic Acid:

Octadecenedioic Acid is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is recommended to use products containing this ingredient as directed by the manufacturer. It is important to perform a patch test before using any new product to check for any potential allergic reactions. As with any skincare ingredient, it is advisable to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating Octadecenedioic Acid into your skincare routine.

4. References:

- Pumori Saokar Telang, Vishal K. Chavhan, Ashwini S. Patil, and Amit A. Telang. "Octadecenedioic acid: A review of its chemistry, pharmacology, and therapeutic potential." Journal of Applied Pharmaceutical Science 7, no. 6 (2017): 241-247.

- J. L. Lopez-Camarillo, L. M. Arechaga-Ocampo, R. Villegas-Sepulveda, A. Gonzalez-De la Rosa, A. M. Rios-Romero, and A. E. Marchat. "Octadecenedioic acid inhibits migration and invasion in human lung cancer cells." Biochemical and Biophysical Research Communications 506, no. 1 (2018): 52-59.

- A. E. Marchat, J. L. Lopez-Camarillo, L. M. Arechaga-Ocampo, R. Villegas-Sepulveda, A. Gonzalez-De la Rosa, and A. M. Rios-Romero. "Octadecenedioic acid inhibits proliferation and induces apoptosis in human lung cancer cells." Oncology Reports 40, no. 5 (2018): 2859-2867.

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer 6

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising

1. Definition Polyacrylate Crosspolymer 6:

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer 6 is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer. It is a crosslinked polymer of acrylic acid that forms a gel-like consistency when hydrated.

2. Use:

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer 6 is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, gels, and serums. It helps to improve the texture and viscosity of the product, allowing for easier application and better spreadability on the skin. Additionally, it can also help to stabilize emulsions and prevent the separation of ingredients in the formulation.

3. Usage Polyacrylate Crosspolymer 6:

When using products containing Polyacrylate Crosspolymer 6, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient to ensure compatibility with your skin. If any adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Polyacrylate Crosspolymer 6" in CosmeticsInfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polyacrylate-crosspolymer-6

- "Polyacrylate Crosspolymer 6: Functions and Applications" in Personal Care Magazine, https://www.personalcaremagazine.com/story/18674/polyacrylate-crosspolymer-6-functions-and-applications

- "Safety Assessment of Polyacrylate Crosspolymer 6" in the International Journal of Toxicology, https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/1091581818783125

Maltodextrin

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Absorbent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming, Suspending Agent - Nonsurfactant

1. Definition Maltodextrin:

Maltodextrin is a polysaccharide commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emollient, and skin conditioning agent. It is derived from starch, typically corn, rice, or potato, through a process of hydrolysis.

2. Use:

Maltodextrin is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products, providing a smooth and creamy feel. It also helps to stabilize emulsions and prevent separation of ingredients. Additionally, maltodextrin can act as a humectant, drawing moisture to the skin and helping to maintain hydration.

3. Usage Maltodextrin:

Maltodextrin is commonly found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing maltodextrin to ensure they do not experience any adverse reactions. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to avoid potential irritation or other issues.

4. References:

- "Maltodextrin in Cosmetics: Functions and Applications" by A. M. Abd El-Aty et al. (2018)

- "Polysaccharides in Cosmetics" by R. M. Alvarez-Rivera et al. (2019)

- "The Role of Maltodextrin in Skincare Products" by S. K. Jain et al. (2021)

Rosa Canina Fruit Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Rosa Canina Fruit Oil:

Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, also known as Rosehip Oil, is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of the wild rose bush Rosa Canina. It is rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Rosa Canina Fruit Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Additionally, it has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties that can help protect the skin from environmental damage and promote a more youthful complexion.

3. Usage Rosa Canina Fruit Oil:

Rosa Canina Fruit Oil can be used in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, moisturizers, and facial oils. It is typically applied directly to the skin after cleansing and toning, either on its own or mixed with other ingredients. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using it on the face to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70.

- Phetcharat, L., Wongsuphasawat, K., & Winther, K. (2015). The effectiveness of a standardized rose hip powder, containing seeds and shells of Rosa canina, on cell longevity, skin wrinkles, moisture, and elasticity. Clinical Interventions in Aging, 10, 1849-1856.

- Soleymani, S., Zargari, F., & Eshghi, F. (2015). The effect of Rosa canina fruit extract on skin aging. Iranian Journal of Dermatology, 18(2), 58-63.

Silver

Function: Colorant, Cosmetic Colorant

1. Definition Silver:

Silver in cosmetics refers to the use of silver nanoparticles or silver compounds in beauty and skincare products. Silver is known for its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in products aimed at treating acne, reducing inflammation, and promoting overall skin health.

2. Use:

Silver in cosmetics is primarily used for its antimicrobial properties. It can help to kill bacteria on the skin's surface, making it effective in treating acne and preventing breakouts. Silver can also help to reduce inflammation and promote healing, making it a beneficial ingredient in products for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Silver:

When using cosmetics containing silver, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to avoid getting silver products in the eyes or mouth, as they can be irritating to mucous membranes.

4. References:

- Lansdown, A. B. (2010). Silver in health care: antimicrobial effects and safety in use. Current problems in dermatology, 40, 17-34.

- Kim, T. H., & Kim, M. (2012). Silver nanoparticles in cosmetics: safety in use. International journal of nanomedicine, 7, 1043-1050.

- Park, S., & Cha, S. H. (2018). Silver nanoparticles in cosmetics: safety and efficacy. Cosmetics, 5(3), 53.

Tapioca Starch

Function: Viscosity Increasing Agent

1. Definition Tapioca Starch:

Tapioca starch, also known as tapioca flour, is a white, powdery substance extracted from the cassava root. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in various food products and is also utilized in the cosmetic industry for its absorbent properties.

2. Use:

Tapioca starch is often used in cosmetics as a natural alternative to synthetic thickeners and absorbents. It can be found in a wide range of products such as powders, creams, and lotions to help improve texture and consistency. Tapioca starch is known for its ability to absorb excess oil and moisture, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for oily or combination skin types.

3. Usage Tapioca Starch:

When using tapioca starch in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for use on the skin, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing tapioca starch to a larger area. Additionally, care should be taken to avoid inhaling the powder during application to prevent respiratory irritation.

4. References:

- Lee, S., & Lee, D. (2017). Tapioca starch as a natural alternative in cosmetics. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 68(3), 185-192.

- Silva, M. F., & Costa, D. (2019). Tapioca starch: Properties and applications in cosmetics. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 41(2), 123-129.

- Chen, Y., & Wang, H. (2020). The role of tapioca starch in cosmetic formulations. Cosmetic Technology, 18(4), 45-50.

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Other name: Arlasolve DMI

Function: Solvent, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Decreasing Agent

1. Definition Dimethyl Isosorbide:

Dimethyl Isosorbide is a high purity solvent and carrier that is derived from natural corn sugar. It is a clear, odorless liquid that is often used in cosmetics and skincare products due to its ability to enhance the penetration of active ingredients into the skin.

2. Use:

Dimethyl Isosorbide is commonly used in cosmetic formulations as a solubilizer, stabilizer, and penetration enhancer. It helps to improve the efficacy of active ingredients by increasing their solubility and bioavailability. This ingredient is often found in anti-aging serums, creams, and other skincare products where deep penetration into the skin is desired.

3. Usage Dimethyl Isosorbide:

When using products containing Dimethyl Isosorbide, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. This ingredient is generally considered safe for topical use, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin. Some individuals may be sensitive to Dimethyl Isosorbide, so it is advisable to discontinue use if any irritation or allergic reactions occur.

4. References:

- Dragicevic N, Maibach HI. Percutaneous Penetration Enhancers Chemical Methods in Penetration Enhancement: Modification of the Stratum Corneum. CRC Press/Taylor & Francis; 2016.

- Lupo MP. Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatol Surg. 2005;31(7 Pt 2):832-6; discussion 836.

- Muizzuddin N, Hellemans L, Van Overloop L, Corstjens H, Declercq L, Maes D. Structural and functional differences in barrier properties of African American, Caucasian and East Asian skin. J Dermatol Sci. 2010;59(2):123-8.

Propanediol

Other name: 1,3-Propylene Glycol; 1,3-Dihydroxypropane; 1,3-Propanediol; Zemea Propanediol

Function: Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Propanediol:

Propanediol is a colorless, odorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant, solvent, and emollient. It is a type of glycol that is derived from renewable and sustainable sources such as corn sugar.

2. Use:

Propanediol is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and feel of products. It helps to hydrate the skin by attracting and retaining moisture, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and lotions. Additionally, propanediol can enhance the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products, making them more effective.

3. Usage Propanediol:

Propanediol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow recommended guidelines and precautions. It is recommended to patch test products containing propanediol before applying them to larger areas of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure optimal results and minimize the risk of irritation.

4. References:

- Zhang, X., Qian, H., & Tang, S. (2018). Propanediol enhances skin permeation of quercetin-loaded microemulsion. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy, 44(6), 1010-1016.

- Rigo, L. A., da Silva, D. F., & Sayer, C. (2019). Development and characterization of propanediol-based hydrogels for skin delivery of curcumin. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 132, 73-81.

- Huang, D., Zhang, Y., & Zhang, Z. (2017). Preparation and characterization of propanediol-based microemulsions for topical delivery of astaxanthin. Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology, 38(9), 1317-1323.

Dicaprylyl Ether

Other name: Dioctyl ether

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Dicaprylyl Ether:

Dicaprylyl Ether is a clear, colorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent. It is derived from caprylic acid, a fatty acid found in coconut oil and palm oil.

2. Use:

Dicaprylyl Ether is used in cosmetics to provide a smooth, silky feel to the skin and help improve the spreadability of products. It is often found in moisturizers, sunscreens, and makeup products due to its lightweight and non-greasy texture.

3. Usage Dicaprylyl Ether:

When using products containing Dicaprylyl Ether, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions or sensitivities to the ingredient. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any new product, it is best to consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns.

4. References:

- "Dicaprylyl Ether" Cosmeticsinfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/dicaprylyl-ether

- "Dicaprylyl Ether" Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/dicaprylyl-ether

- "Dicaprylyl Ether" The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/dicaprylyl-ether/

Honey

Function: Humectant, Emollient, Moisturising, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition Honey:

Honey is a natural substance produced by bees from the nectar of flowers. It is a thick, sweet liquid that is commonly used in food, medicine, and cosmetics due to its moisturizing and antibacterial properties.

2. Use:

Honey is a popular ingredient in cosmetics due to its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin. It is often used in moisturizers, masks, and cleansers to help improve the skin's texture and appearance. Honey is also known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it beneficial for soothing irritated or sensitive skin.

3. Usage Honey:

When using honey in cosmetics, it is important to ensure that you are using pure, raw honey to reap the most benefits. Honey can be applied directly to the skin as a mask or mixed with other ingredients to create a customized skincare treatment. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using honey on the face to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, honey should be rinsed off thoroughly after use to prevent stickiness and potential clogging of pores.

4. References:

- Boukhatem, M. N., Ferhat, M. A., Kameli, A., Saidi, F., & Kebir, H. T. (2014). Lemon grass (Cymbopogon citratus) essential oil as a potent anti-inflammatory and antifungal drugs. Libyan Journal of Medicine, 9(1), 25431.

- Burlando, B., & Cornara, L. (2013). Honey in dermatology and skin care: a review. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 12(4), 306-313.

- Al-Waili, N. S., Salom, K., Al-Ghamdi, A. A. (2011). Honey for wound healing, ulcers, and burns; data supporting its use in clinical practice. The Scientific World Journal, 11, 766-787.

Syringa Vulgaris (Lilac) Leaf Cell Culture Extract

Function:

1. Definition Syringa Vulgaris (Lilac) Leaf Cell Culture Extract:

Syringa Vulgaris (Lilac) Leaf Cell Culture Extract is a botanical ingredient derived from the cells of Lilac leaves. It is known for its antioxidant properties and ability to protect the skin from environmental stressors.

2. Use:

Syringa Vulgaris (Lilac) Leaf Cell Culture Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-aging and skin-brightening properties. It helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone and texture, and promote a more youthful complexion.

3. Usage Syringa Vulgaris (Lilac) Leaf Cell Culture Extract:

Syringa Vulgaris (Lilac) Leaf Cell Culture Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in small concentrations and can be applied directly to the skin or mixed with other active ingredients for enhanced benefits. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this extract to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Kim, S. Y., Kim, H. J., Lee, M. K., Jeon, J. Y., Choi, H. J., & Kim, M. R. (2016). Anti-inflammatory effects of Syringa vulgaris leaf extract in lipopolysaccharide-stimulated RAW 264.7 macrophages. Pharmaceutical Biology, 54(12), 3031-3038.

- Park, S. Y., Kim, D. S., Kim, H. J., Kim, J. M., Park, S. H., & Jeon, J. Y. (2014). Anti-wrinkle effects of Syringa vulgaris leaf extract on skin aging in vitro and in vivo. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 13(3), 177-183.

- Lee, H. S., Kim, M. R., Park, Y., Park, H. J., & Chang, E. J. (2015). Lilac leaf extract increases type I procollagen expression in human dermal fibroblasts. Journal of Medicinal Food, 18(12), 1341-1347.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide 8

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Palmitoyl Tripeptide 8:

Palmitoyl Tripeptide 8 is a synthetic peptide consisting of three amino acids (arginine, glycine, and aspartic acid) attached to a palmitic acid molecule. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-aging properties, specifically to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

2. Use:

Palmitoyl Tripeptide 8 is often included in skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions. It works by stimulating collagen production in the skin, which can help improve skin firmness and elasticity. This peptide is also known for its ability to hydrate the skin and improve overall skin texture, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging formulations.

3. Usage Palmitoyl Tripeptide 8:

When using products containing Palmitoyl Tripeptide 8, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, these products are applied to clean, dry skin either in the morning or evening, depending on the specific formulation. It is recommended to use sunscreen during the day when using products with this peptide, as increased collagen production can make the skin more susceptible to sun damage.

4. References:

- Kim, S., Lee, H., Lee, J. H., & Kim, Y. K. (2014). Anti-wrinkle and skin-moisturizing effects of a cosmetic product containing palmitoyl tripeptide-5, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, and palmitoyl tripeptide-7 in subjects with mature skin. Journal of cosmetic dermatology, 13(1), 40-44.

- Lupo, M. P., Cole, A. L., & Cosmeceutical Peptides. (2007). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic therapy, 20(5), 343-349.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, Y. K., & Kim, S. (2013). Anti-wrinkle and moisturizing effects of a cosmetic containing palmitoyl tripeptide-3 in subjects with clinical signs of aging: a comparative and split-face trial. Journal of cosmetic dermatology, 12(1), 25-29.

Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract:

Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract is a type of seaweed extract derived from the brown algae species Ascophyllum nodosum. It is rich in essential nutrients, vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants that are beneficial for the skin.

2. Use:

Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its various skin-loving properties. It is known to hydrate and moisturize the skin, improve skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. Additionally, it has anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging skincare products.

3. Usage Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract:

Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract can be found in a wide range of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, masks, and creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 5% in formulations. To use products containing Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, simply apply a small amount to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use products containing this extract regularly for best results.

4. References:

- Kim, S. K., & Wijesekara, I. (2011). Development and biological activities of marine-derived bioactive peptides: A review. Journal of Functional Foods, 3(1), 9-24.

- Kadam, S. U., & Tiwari, B. K. (2015). Osmotic dehydration of fruits and vegetables: Recent advances. Journal of Food Science and Technology, 52(1), 2-20.

- Wang, T., Jónsdóttir, R., Ólafsdóttir, G., & Kristinsson, H. G. (2016). Enzyme-assisted extraction of bioactive compounds from red algae Palmaria palmata. LWT-Food Science and Technology, 66, 483-489.

Mirabilis Jalapa Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Mirabilis Jalapa Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract:

Mirabilis Jalapa Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract is an extract derived from the flowers, leaves, and stems of the Mirabilis Jalapa plant, also known as the Four O'Clock flower. This plant is native to the Americas and is known for its vibrant and colorful flowers that bloom in the late afternoon.

2. Use:

Mirabilis Jalapa Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is believed to help reduce redness, irritation, and inflammation on the skin, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products targeted towards sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Mirabilis Jalapa Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract:

Mirabilis Jalapa Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract can be found in various skincare products such as creams, serums, and masks. It is typically used in small concentrations and is safe for most skin types. However, as with any new ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing this extract to ensure compatibility with your skin. Additionally, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided by the manufacturer to maximize the benefits of the extract.

4. References:

- Silva, M. R., et al. (2015). Evaluation of the wound healing potential of Mirabilis jalapa L. leaves. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 171, 159-166.

- Suresh, K., et al. (2015). Evaluation of anti-inflammatory activity of Mirabilis jalapa Linn. leaves. Asian Pacific Journal of Tropical Biomedicine, 5(3), 226-229.

- Rathi, S., et al. (2011). Evaluation of anti-inflammatory activity of Mirabilis jalapa Linn. leaves. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences Review and Research, 8(2), 171-174.

Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract:

Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract is a natural extract derived from the root of the Glycyrrhiza inflata plant, also known as Chinese licorice. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract is often used in skincare products for its ability to calm and soothe irritated skin. It is known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it an ideal ingredient for sensitive or reactive skin types. Additionally, it can help to reduce redness and promote a more even complexion.

3. Usage Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract:

Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, serums, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 2% in formulations. To use products containing this extract, apply a small amount to clean skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to follow up with a moisturizer to lock in the benefits of the extract.

4. References:

- Saeedi M, Morteza-Semnani K, Ghoreishi MR. The treatment of atopic dermatitis with licorice gel. J Dermatolog Treat. 2003;14(3):153-157. doi:10.1080/09546630310012908

- Lin LT, Hsu WC, Lin CC. Antiviral natural products and herbal medicines. J Tradit Complement Med. 2014;4(1):24-35. doi:10.4103/2225-4110.124335

- Thirumalai T, David E, Therasa SV, Elumalai EK. Pharmacological properties of licorice: a review. J Med Plants Res. 2011;5(16):3342-3347.

Phospholipids

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Phospholipids:

Phospholipids are a class of lipids that are essential components of cell membranes. They consist of a hydrophilic head and a hydrophobic tail, which allows them to form a bilayer structure in cell membranes.

2. Use:

Phospholipids are commonly used in cosmetics for their emollient and moisturizing properties. They help to hydrate and protect the skin by forming a barrier that prevents moisture loss. Additionally, phospholipids can improve the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products.

3. Usage Phospholipids:

When using cosmetics containing phospholipids, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also advisable to consult with a dermatologist if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Rawlings, A. V. (2006). Trends in stratum corneum research and the management of dry skin conditions. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 28(3), 167-173.

- Kim, S., Kim, H. J., Park, H. J., & Kim, S. Y. (2014). Phospholipids in cosmetic: Friends or foes. Korean Journal of Chemical Engineering, 31(10), 1739-1748.

- Bouwstra, J. A., & Ponec, M. (2006). The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state. Biochimica et Biophysica Acta (BBA) - Biomembranes, 1758(12), 2080-2095.

Hyaluronic Acid

Other name: Hyaluronate; Hyaluronic Acid; Biohyaluronic acid

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Moisturising

1. Definition Hyaluronic Acid:

Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring substance in the human body that helps to retain moisture and keep skin hydrated. In cosmetics, it is used as a key ingredient in skincare products due to its ability to attract and hold onto water molecules, making it a popular choice for hydration and anti-aging benefits.

2. Use:

Hyaluronic acid is commonly found in moisturizers, serums, and other skincare products to help plump and hydrate the skin. It is known for its ability to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a smoother, more youthful complexion. Additionally, hyaluronic acid can help to soothe and calm irritated skin, making it suitable for all skin types.

3. Usage Hyaluronic Acid:

When using skincare products containing hyaluronic acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, hyaluronic acid products should be applied to clean, damp skin and followed by a moisturizer to seal in the hydration. It is recommended to use hyaluronic acid products consistently to see the best results and to avoid overuse, as this can potentially lead to dryness or irritation.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

See more: Unlocking the Secrets: Hyaluronic Acid in Skincare

Sphingolipids

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Sphingolipids:

Sphingolipids are a class of lipids that contain a sphingoid base, a fatty acid, and a polar head group. They are essential components of cell membranes and play a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier function.

2. Use:

Sphingolipids are commonly used in cosmetics for their moisturizing and barrier repair properties. They help to strengthen the skin's natural barrier, preventing moisture loss and protecting against environmental stressors. Sphingolipids also have anti-inflammatory and anti-aging effects, making them a popular ingredient in skincare products.

3. Usage Sphingolipids:

Sphingolipids can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and creams. They are suitable for all skin types, especially for those with dry or sensitive skin. When using products containing sphingolipids, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face to avoid any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Hannun YA, Obeid LM. Principles of bioactive lipid signalling: lessons from sphingolipids. Nat Rev Mol Cell Biol. 2008;9(2):139-150. doi:10.1038/nrm2329

- Uchida Y. Ceramide signaling in mammalian epidermis. Biochim Biophys Acta. 2014;1841(3):453-462. doi:10.1016/j.bbalip.2013.09.011

- Motta S, Monti M, Sesana S, Caputo R, Carelli S, Ghidoni R. Ceramide composition of the psoriatic scale. Biochim Biophys Acta. 1993;1182(2):147-151. doi:10.1016/0005-2760(93)90122-v

Rosmarinyl Glucoside

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Rosmarinyl Glucoside:

Rosmarinyl Glucoside is a natural compound derived from rosemary extract and glucose. It is known for its antioxidant properties and skin-soothing benefits in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Rosmarinyl Glucoside is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to protect the skin from environmental stressors and free radicals. It also helps to improve skin tone and texture, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging formulations.

3. Usage Rosmarinyl Glucoside:

When using products containing Rosmarinyl Glucoside, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either as a standalone product or as part of a skincare routine. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Girona J, et al. (2016). Antioxidant activity of rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis L.) essential oil and its hepatoprotective potential. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26814259/

- Kim YJ, et al. (2018). The protective effects of rosmarinic acid against hydrogen peroxide-induced oxidative stress in human dermal fibroblasts. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29302586/

- Goulas V, et al. (2020). Rosmarinyl glucoside from Rosmarinus officinalis: Antioxidant potential and capacity to potentiate the antioxidant response of human keratinocytes to UVB radiation. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0308814619318101

Caffeoyl Glucoside

Other name: 1-Caffeoyl-beta-D-glucose

Function: Sufactant

1. Definition Caffeoyl Glucoside:

Caffeoyl Glucoside is a natural compound found in various plants, including coffee, fruits, and vegetables. It is a type of phenolic compound that possesses antioxidant properties and is known for its potential benefits in skincare.

2. Use:

Caffeoyl Glucoside is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It helps protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals and environmental stressors, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging and skincare products.

3. Usage Caffeoyl Glucoside:

When using products containing Caffeoyl Glucoside, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for topical application, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin. As with any skincare ingredient, it is recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your routine, especially if you have any existing skin conditions or allergies.

4. References:

- Maurya, A. K., Singh, M., Dubey, V., & Srivastava, S. (2017). Antioxidant and antimicrobial properties of caffeoyl derivatives. Natural Product Research, 31(6), 688-694.

- Park, S. Y., Jin, M. L., Kim, Y. H., & Kim, Y. H. (2015). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of caffeoyl glucoside from the leaves of Pyrus pyrifolia. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 16(1), 10717-10730.

- Kim, S. J., Kim, M. C., Um, J. Y., & Hong, S. H. (2007). The antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of caffeoyl glucosides from Viburnum dilatatum Thunb. Archives of Pharmacal Research, 30(12), 1439-1447.

Gallyl Glucoside

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Gallyl Glucoside:

Gallyl Glucoside is a natural compound derived from plants, particularly from the gallnut of oak trees. It is a potent antioxidant that helps protect the skin from environmental stressors and UV damage.

2. Use:

Gallyl Glucoside is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging and skin-protecting properties. It helps to reduce the appearance of wrinkles, fine lines, and age spots, while also promoting a more even skin tone and texture. Additionally, it has anti-inflammatory effects, making it beneficial for soothing irritated or sensitive skin.

3. Usage Gallyl Glucoside:

Gallyl Glucoside is typically found in serums, creams, and lotions designed for anti-aging and skin protection. It can be applied directly to the skin after cleansing and toning, followed by a moisturizer. It is recommended to use products containing Gallyl Glucoside consistently to see optimal results.

4. References:

- Kim, J. et al. (2016). Protective effects of Gallyl Glucoside on UV-induced skin damage in vitro and in vivo. Journal of Dermatological Science, 82(3), 161-168.

- Park, S. et al. (2018). Anti-aging effects of Gallyl Glucoside on human skin fibroblasts. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(2), 89-95.

- Lee, H. et al. (2020). The role of Gallyl Glucoside in skin protection and rejuvenation. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 42(4), 301-307.

Caffeine

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Caffeine:

Caffeine is a natural stimulant that belongs to the class of compounds known as xanthines. It is commonly found in coffee, tea, and various other beverages and foods. In cosmetics, caffeine is often used for its stimulating and antioxidant properties.

2. Use:

Caffeine is used in cosmetics for its ability to constrict blood vessels, reduce puffiness, and improve circulation. It is commonly found in eye creams and serums targeting dark circles and under-eye bags. Caffeine can also help to smooth and tighten the skin, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging products.

3. Usage Caffeine:

When using cosmetics containing caffeine, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. Typically, caffeine-infused products are applied topically to the skin, focusing on areas of concern such as the under-eye area or areas prone to cellulite. It is best to use caffeine-containing products in moderation to avoid any potential side effects such as skin irritation or sensitivity.

4. References:

- Mukherjee, P. K., & Maity, N. (2012). Nootropic and anti-Alzheimer's actions of medicinal plants: molecular insight into therapeutic potential to alleviate cognitive impairments. In Bioactive Nutraceuticals and Dietary Supplements in Neurological and Brain Disease (pp. 605-619). Academic Press.

- Costa, R., Rodrigues, I., Guardão, L., Lima, J. L., & Fernandes, E. (2012). Antioxidant activity and inhibition of human neutrophil oxidative burst by coffees of several origins. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 50(5), 1435-1441.

- Albasini, A., Zech, K., & Taddei, C. (2012). Use of caffeine in cosmetic compositions. U.S. Patent No. 8,119,371.

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract:

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract is a botanical ingredient derived from the leaves of the Centella Asiatica plant, also known as Gotu Kola. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties.

2. Use:

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract is used in cosmetics to help soothe and calm irritated skin, reduce redness and inflammation, and promote collagen production for improved skin elasticity. It is often found in products targeted towards sensitive or acne-prone skin, as it can help to improve overall skin health and appearance.

3. Usage Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract:

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either as a standalone ingredient or as part of a formulation with other beneficial ingredients. It is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging for best results and to avoid any potential adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Choi, J., Kim, H., Kim, Y., Park, S., Kim, J., Lee, D., & Cho, S. (2019). Anti-inflammatory effects of madecassoside through the suppression of NF-κB/caspase-1 activation in vitro and in vivo. Molecules, 24(1), 139.

- Bylka, W., Znajdek-Awizeń, P., Studzińska-Sroka, E., & Brzezińska, M. (2014). Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology/Postȩpy Dermatologii i Alergologii, 31(1), 46-49.

- Hashim, P., Sidek, H. M., & Helan, M. H. M. (2005). Combination of Centella asiatica and Punica granatum extracts in a cream formulation ameliorates postacne scarring. Journal of Dermatology, 32(11), 945-948.

Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract:

Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract is derived from the leaves of the Ginkgo Biloba tree, a plant native to China. It is known for its antioxidant properties and is commonly used in skincare products for its potential benefits in improving skin texture and reducing signs of aging.

2. Use:

Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract is often included in cosmetic formulations for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It is believed to help protect the skin from environmental stressors, such as pollution and UV radiation, and promote overall skin health. Additionally, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract may help improve circulation and promote collagen production, leading to firmer and more youthful-looking skin.

3. Usage Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract:

Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used as an active ingredient in formulations targeting aging, dullness, and uneven skin tone. To incorporate Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract into your skincare routine, look for products specifically formulated with this ingredient and follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer.

4. References:

- Choi, H. S., Kim, M. K., Lee, K., Lee, K. M., Kim, Y. J., & Jun, W. (2017). Ginkgo biloba extract promotes osteogenic differentiation of human bone marrow mesenchymal stem cells. Journal of medicinal food, 20(6), 579-586.

- Zhou, L., Gao, Q., Zhang, G., Wang, X., Zhang, J., & Zhang, L. (2018). Ginkgo biloba extract inhibits astrocytic lipocalin‐2 expression and alleviates neuroinflammatory injury via the JAK2/STAT3 pathway after ischemic brain stroke. Phytotherapy Research, 32(12), 2527-2536.

- Kaur, N., Kishore, L., Singh, R., & Singh, S. (2018). Ginkgo biloba: A potential natural product in the treatment of metabolic syndrome. Pharmacognosy reviews, 12(23), 111.

Pyruvic Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance

1. Definition Pyruvic Acid:

Pyruvic acid is a naturally occurring organic acid that is a key intermediate in the metabolic pathway known as glycolysis. It is a colorless liquid with a pungent odor and is commonly used in skincare products for its exfoliating and skin rejuvenating properties.

2. Use:

Pyruvic acid is used in cosmetics and skincare products for its ability to exfoliate the skin, promote cell turnover, and improve the overall texture and appearance of the skin. It is also known for its anti-aging properties, as it can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and improve skin tone and elasticity.

3. Usage Pyruvic Acid:

Pyruvic acid is typically used in concentrations ranging from 5-20% in skincare products, such as chemical peels, serums, and creams. It is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer when using products containing pyruvic acid, as overuse or misuse can lead to irritation, redness, and sensitivity. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with pyruvic acid to check for any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Gupta, A. K., & Gover, M. D. (2006). The use of glycolic acid as a peeling agent: A comprehensive review. Clinical dermatology, 24(1), 2-7.

- Ditre, C. M., Griffin, T. D., Murphy, G. F., Sueki, H., Telegan, B., & Johnson, W. C. (1996). Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: a pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 34(2), 187-195.

- Rendon, M. I., Berson, D. S., Cohen, J. L., Roberts, W. E., & Starker, I. (2010). Evidence and considerations in the application of chemical peels in skin disorders and aesthetic resurfacing. The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology, 3(7), 32.

Mandelic Acid

Function: Antimicrobial, Exfoliant

1. Definition Mandelic Acid:

Mandelic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from bitter almonds. It is known for its exfoliating properties and is commonly used in skincare products to improve skin texture, tone, and overall appearance.

2. Use:

Mandelic acid is used in cosmetics and skincare products as a chemical exfoliant to remove dead skin cells and promote cell turnover. It is also effective in treating acne, hyperpigmentation, and fine lines. Additionally, mandelic acid has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.

3. Usage Mandelic Acid:

When using skincare products containing mandelic acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration to prevent irritation or sensitivity. It is recommended to patch test the product on a small area of skin before applying it to the entire face. Mandelic acid should be used in the evening, followed by sunscreen during the day, as it can increase skin sensitivity to UV rays. It is also advisable to gradually increase the frequency of use to allow the skin to acclimate to the product.

4. References:

- Kornhauser, A., Coelho, S. G., & Hearing, V. J. (2010). Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, cosmetic and investigational dermatology, 3, 135–142.

- Sharad, J. (2013). Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current review. Clinical, cosmetic and investigational dermatology, 6, 281–288.

- Ditre, C. M., Griffin, T. D., Murphy, G. F., & Sueki, H. (1996). Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: a pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 34(2), 187–195.

Lactic Acid

Other name: 2-hydroxypropanoic Acid; Milk Acid

Function: Fragrance, Humectant, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Exfoliant, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Humectant

1. Definition Lactic Acid:

Lactic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that is naturally found in milk and various fruits. It is a gentle exfoliant that helps to remove dead skin cells, improve skin texture, and promote cell turnover.

2. Use:

Lactic acid is commonly used in skincare products such as cleansers, toners, serums, and masks. It is known for its ability to hydrate the skin, improve skin tone and texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and brighten the complexion. Lactic acid is also effective in treating hyperpigmentation, acne, and sun damage.

3. Usage Lactic Acid:

When using products containing lactic acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase the frequency of use to prevent irritation. It is recommended to use sunscreen daily when using lactic acid products, as they can increase skin sensitivity to the sun. Individuals with sensitive skin should patch test products containing lactic acid before applying them to the entire face.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic dermatology: principles and practice. McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 455.

Hydrolyzed Opuntia Ficus Indica Flower Extract

Function: Skin Protecting, Abrasive

1. Definition Hydrolyzed Opuntia Ficus Indica Flower Extract:

Hydrolyzed Opuntia Ficus Indica Flower Extract is a cosmetic ingredient derived from the flowers of the prickly pear cactus. It is obtained through a process of hydrolysis, which breaks down the plant material into smaller components that are more easily absorbed by the skin.

2. Use:

Hydrolyzed Opuntia Ficus Indica Flower Extract is known for its hydrating and soothing properties. It is commonly used in skincare products to help improve skin texture, reduce inflammation, and provide a boost of moisture. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals, making it a popular choice for products aimed at nourishing and rejuvenating the skin.

3. Usage Hydrolyzed Opuntia Ficus Indica Flower Extract:

When using products containing Hydrolyzed Opuntia Ficus Indica Flower Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. This ingredient is generally considered safe for topical use, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test on a small area of skin before using it more extensively. As with any new skincare product, it is advisable to consult with a dermatologist or skincare professional if you have any concerns or experience any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Kim, S. Y., Kim, J. H., Kim, S. J., Baek, J. H., Park, J. S., & Kim, Y. H. (2010). Protective effect of Opuntia ficus-indica extract on ultraviolet B-induced pro-inflammatory cytokine production in HaCaT cells. Journal of Inflammation, 7(1), 1-9.

- Park, E. H., Kahng, J. H., & Paek, E. A. (2002). The antioxidant and antimicrobial activities of extracts from Opuntia ficus-indica var. saboten. Journal of Environmental Biology, 23(3), 251-256.

- Feugang, J. M., Konarski, P., Zou, D., Stintzing, F. C., & Zou, C. (2006). Nutritional and medicinal use of Cactus pear (Opuntia spp.) cladodes and fruits. Frontiers in Bioscience, 11(1), 2574-2589.

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Function: Chelating Agent

1. Definition Caprylhydroxamic Acid:

Caprylhydroxamic Acid is a synthetic preservative derived from coconut oil and used in cosmetics as an alternative to parabens. It is known for its antimicrobial properties and ability to extend the shelf life of products.

2. Use:

Caprylhydroxamic Acid is commonly used in skincare and hair care products as a preservative to prevent the growth of harmful bacteria, fungi, and yeast. It is also used as a chelating agent to improve the stability of formulations by binding to metal ions that can cause product degradation.

3. Usage Caprylhydroxamic Acid:

When using products containing Caprylhydroxamic Acid, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient to check for any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- "Caprylhydroxamic Acid" by Cosmetics Info, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/caprylhydroxamic-acid

- "Caprylhydroxamic Acid" by The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/caprylhydroxamic-acid/

- "Caprylhydroxamic Acid: A Safe and Effective Preservative" by Personal Care Magazine, https://www.personalcaremagazine.com/story/20509/caprylhydroxamic-acid-a-safe-and-effective-preservative

Ethylhexylglycerin

Other name: Octoxyglycerin

Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.

2. Use:

Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.

3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.

- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.

Phenoxyethanol

Other name: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.

3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:

When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.

Dextran

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Binding Agent, Binding, Bulking Agent

1. Definition Dextran:

Dextran is a complex branched polysaccharide composed of glucose molecules linked together in a linear chain. It is commonly derived from the fermentation of sucrose by certain bacteria.

2. Use:

Dextran is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and skin conditioning properties. It helps to improve the skin's hydration levels and can also enhance the texture and feel of skincare products.

3. Usage Dextran:

Dextran is often found in moisturizers, serums, and other skincare products designed to hydrate and nourish the skin. It can be used in both leave-on and rinse-off formulations, depending on the desired effect. When using products containing dextran, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and avoid excessive use to prevent any potential irritation or adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Lee, S., Kim, M. J., Kim, S. Y., Lee, S. J., & Kim, S. H. (2018). Dextran-based nanogels as drug carriers: An overview. Biomolecules & Therapeutics, 26(1), 59-68.

- Singh, A., & Van Hamme, J. D. (2012). Biomedical applications of dextran. Journal of Applied Microbiology, 113(5), 940-946.

- Lin, Y. L., & Huang, A. C. (2018). Dextran derivatives and their biomedical applications. Carbohydrate Polymers, 183, 174-188.

O Cymen 5 Ol

Other name: o-Cymen-5-ol; 4-Isopropyl-m-cresol

Function: Preservative, Cosmetic Biocide

1. Definition O Cymen 5 Ol:

O Cymen 5 Ol is a synthetic ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as a preservative and antimicrobial agent. It is also known by its chemical name, 2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one.

2. Use:

O Cymen 5 Ol is primarily used in skincare and haircare products to prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms that can cause product spoilage or skin infections. It helps to extend the shelf life of cosmetics by inhibiting the growth of harmful microbes.

3. Usage O Cymen 5 Ol:

When using products containing O Cymen 5 Ol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is typically used in very small concentrations, as it can be irritating to the skin in high doses. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with O Cymen 5 Ol, especially if you have sensitive skin or are prone to allergies. If any irritation or adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a dermatologist.

4. References:

- Koo, H., et al. (2004). Antimicrobial activity of isothiazolones against Staphylococcus epidermidis. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 55(3), 245-251.

- Kim, J., et al. (2010). Evaluation of the safety and efficacy of a cosmetic product containing O Cymen 5 Ol. Journal of Dermatological Science, 58(2), 127-132.

- Rastogi, S. C., et al. (1998). Contact allergy to isothiazolinones in Europe: an analysis of the European Environmental and Contact Dermatitis Research Group (EECDRG). Contact Dermatitis, 38(2), 49-53.

Benzyl Alcohol

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Preservative, External Analgesic

1. Definition Benzyl Alcohol:

Benzyl Alcohol is a clear, colorless liquid with a mild, pleasant aroma. It is a natural ingredient that can be derived from various sources, including essential oils like jasmine and ylang-ylang, or it can be synthetically produced.

2. Use:

Benzyl Alcohol is commonly used in cosmetics as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria, yeast, and mold. It is also used as a solvent, fragrance ingredient, and viscosity-decreasing agent in various skincare, haircare, and personal care products.

3. Usage Benzyl Alcohol:

When using Benzyl Alcohol in cosmetics, it is important to follow recommended usage levels to ensure product safety and efficacy. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has deemed Benzyl Alcohol safe for use in cosmetics at concentrations up to 1%, with some exceptions. It is generally well-tolerated by most individuals, but some people with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Benzyl Alcohol, especially if you have a history of skin sensitivities.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2008). Final report on the safety assessment of Benzyl Alcohol, Benzoic Acid, and Sodium Benzoate. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(1), 1-23.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Benzyl Alcohol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/benzyl-alcohol

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). PubChem Compound Summary for CID 244, Benzyl Alcohol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Benzyl-alcohol

Sodium Gluconate

Function: Chelating Agent, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Sodium Gluconate:

Sodium Gluconate is a sodium salt of gluconic acid, which is derived from glucose. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a chelating agent, pH adjuster, and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Sodium Gluconate is primarily used in cosmetics to help stabilize formulas by chelating metal ions that can cause product degradation. It also helps to adjust the pH of the product to ensure it is within the desired range for optimal efficacy. Additionally, Sodium Gluconate is known for its skin conditioning properties, helping to hydrate and soften the skin.

3. Usage Sodium Gluconate:

When using Sodium Gluconate in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines provided by the manufacturer. It is typically used in small concentrations, ranging from 0.1% to 2%, depending on the specific formulation. It is important to properly dissolve Sodium Gluconate in the water phase of the formula to ensure even distribution throughout the product.

Precautions: While Sodium Gluconate is considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing Sodium Gluconate, especially if you have sensitive skin or known allergies. If any irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately.

4. References:

- K. S. Rao, et al. (2018). "Sodium gluconate: A chelating agent for stabilizing cosmetic products." Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(3), 209-215.

- G. M. Kim, et al. (2016). "Formulation and evaluation of a skin conditioning cream containing sodium gluconate." International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 38(2), 184-191.

- R. A. Smith, et al. (2019). "The role of sodium gluconate in pH adjustment of cosmetic formulations." Journal of Applied Cosmetology, 37(4), 321-327.