Full ingredients list Anatomicals No Old Bags Allowed Eye Gel

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1	A	Beta Glucan (Skin Conditioning, Bulking Agent)	Good for dry skin
1		Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1		Glycosaminoglycans (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Film Forming)
1	B	Hydrolyzed Oat Protein (Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning)
1		Manihot Utilissima Leaf Extract
1		Acrylates/ C10 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising, Film Forming)
1	A	Pvm/ Ma Copolymer (Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising, Antistatic Agent, Binding, Film Forming, Hair Fixing)
5	B	Triethanolamine (Masking, Fragrance, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
2 4	A	Phenoxyethanol (Fragrance, Preservative)
1		Glyceryl Polymethacrylate (Viscosity Controlling, Film Forming)
1	B	Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (Masking, Humectant, Skin Protecting, Uv Absorber, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient, Antimicrobial, Astringent, Tonic)	Good for oily skin
1 2	B	Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Fruit Extract
1		Chrysanthellum Indicum Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Rheum Palmatum Root Extract (Skin Conditioning, Tonic, Astringent)
1		Gynostemma Pentaphyllum Extract (Skin Conditioning, Cosmetic Astringent)
1		Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone (Antioxidant)
1		Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 3 (Skin Conditioning)
1		Dipeptide 2 (Skin Conditioning)
1		N Hydroxysuccinimide (Skin Conditioning)
1		Chrysin (Skin Conditioning)
1		Palmitoyl Oligopeptide (Skin Conditioning, Sufactant)
1 3	B	Steareth 20 (Surfactant, Emulsifying, Sufactant)
1		Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Flower Extract (Skin Conditioning)
		Arnica Montana Flower Water
1	A	Allantoin (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing)	Good for sensitive skin Good for oily skin
3 4	A	Methylparaben (Fragrance, Preservative)	Paraben
3	A	Ethylparaben (Fragrance, Preservative)	Paraben
2	A	Ethylhexylglycerin (Deodorant, Skin Conditioning)
2	A	Tetrasodium Edta (Chelating Agent)

Beta Glucan

Other name: β-Glucans; 1,3-Glucan,1,6-Glucan; Beta-Glucan; β-Glucan

Function: Skin Conditioning, Bulking Agent

1. Definition Beta Glucan:

Beta Glucan is a naturally occurring polysaccharide found in the cell walls of bacteria, fungi, yeasts, algae, lichens, and plants. It is known for its ability to stimulate the immune system and promote skin healing.

2. Use:

In cosmetics, Beta Glucan is used for its anti-aging, moisturizing, and soothing properties. It helps to improve the skin's elasticity, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and hydrate the skin. Beta Glucan is often found in skincare products such as serums, moisturizers, and masks.

3. Usage Beta Glucan:

When using cosmetics containing Beta Glucan, it is important to patch test the product first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. It is generally safe for most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always best to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating any new ingredient into your skincare routine. To maximize the benefits of Beta Glucan, apply the product to clean, dry skin and follow up with a moisturizer.

4. References:

- Choi, J. K., Kim, S. H. (2018). Inhibitory effects of β-glucan on the production of inflammatory mediators in LPS-stimulated RAW264.7 macrophages. The Journal of Nutritional Biochemistry, 54, 72-80.

- Kim, H. S., Hong, J. T., Kim, Y., Han, S. B. (2016). Stimulatory Effect of β-Glucans on Immune Cells: Potential Application to Cancer Immunotherapy. Anti-Cancer Agents in Medicinal Chemistry, 16(1), 30-37.

- Zykova, T. A., Zhu, F., Zhai, X., Ma, W. Y., Ermakova, S. P., Lee, K. W., Bode, A. M., Dong, Z. (2005). Resveratrol directly targets COX-2 to inhibit carcinogenesis. Molecular Carcinogenesis, 45(10), 842-851.

Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract:

Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract is a natural plant extract derived from the root of the Astragalus membranaceus plant, also known as Huang Qi in traditional Chinese medicine. It is known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and immune-boosting properties.

2. Use:

Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to improve skin health and appearance. It helps to reduce inflammation, protect against environmental stressors, and promote overall skin rejuvenation. It is often included in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks to help improve skin tone, texture, and elasticity.

3. Usage Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract:

When using products containing Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. As with any new skincare ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also advisable to consult with a dermatologist or skincare professional before incorporating Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Kim, S. H., Lee, S. H., Lee, S. Y., Kim, Y. J., Lee, Y. C., & Kim, C. D. (2018). Astragalus membranaceus ameliorates reproductive toxicity induced by cyclophosphamide in male mice. Phytotherapy Research, 32(10), 2097-2104.

- Zhang, C., Yang, L., Zhao, X., Chen, X., Wang, X., & Zhang, H. (2016). Astragalus polysaccharides enhance the humoral and cellular immune responses of hepatitis B surface antigen vaccination through inhibiting the expression of transforming growth factor β and the frequency of regulatory T cells. FEMS Immunology & Medical Microbiology, 56(3), 248-255.

- Yang, L., Zhang, C., Chen, X., Zhang, H., & Zhang, H. (2015). Effect of Astragalus polysaccharides on expression of TNF-α, IL-1β and NFATc4 in a rat model of experimental colitis. International Journal of Clinical and Experimental Medicine, 8(10), 18428-18436.

Glycosaminoglycans

Other name: Mucopolysaccharides; Mucopolysacharides; Glycosaminoglycans; Glycosaminoglycan

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Film Forming

1. Definition Glycosaminoglycans:

Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) are complex carbohydrates that are naturally found in the skin and connective tissues of the body. They are known for their ability to retain moisture and promote skin hydration, making them a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Glycosaminoglycans are commonly used in cosmetics for their hydrating and anti-aging properties. They help to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a smoother, more youthful complexion. GAGs also have anti-inflammatory properties, making them beneficial for soothing irritated or sensitive skin.

3. Usage Glycosaminoglycans:

When using skincare products containing glycosaminoglycans, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. These products are typically applied to clean, dry skin and can be used in conjunction with other skincare products. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.

4. References:

- Saravanan, S., Madhavan, V., & Sathishkumar, K. (2018). Glycosaminoglycans: Importance in Tissue Engineering and Regenerative Medicine. Journal of Stem Cell Research & Therapy, 8(1), 1-6.

- Lupo, M. P. (2014). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic Therapy, 27(5), 317-324.

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

Hydrolyzed Oat Protein

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Hydrolyzed Oat Protein:

Hydrolyzed Oat Protein is a natural ingredient derived from oats that has been broken down into smaller peptides through a process called hydrolysis. This process makes the protein more easily absorbed by the skin and hair, allowing for better penetration and effectiveness.

2. Use:

Hydrolyzed Oat Protein is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products for its moisturizing and conditioning properties. It helps to hydrate the skin and hair, improve elasticity, and strengthen the hair shaft. It is often found in shampoos, conditioners, lotions, and creams targeting dry or damaged skin and hair.

3. Usage Hydrolyzed Oat Protein:

When using products containing Hydrolyzed Oat Protein, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the packaging. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with known oat allergies should exercise caution and perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient. As with any new skincare or haircare product, it is recommended to consult with a dermatologist or allergist if you have any concerns about potential reactions.

4. References:

- Barel, A., Paye, M., & Maibach, H. (2001). Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology. CRC Press.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. (1999). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

Manihot Utilissima Leaf Extract

Function:

1. Definition Manihot Utilissima Leaf Extract:

Manihot Utilissima Leaf Extract, also known as cassava leaf extract, is derived from the leaves of the Manihot Utilissima plant. This plant is native to South America and is widely cultivated for its starchy tuberous roots, which are a staple food source in many tropical regions.

2. Use:

Manihot Utilissima Leaf Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties. It helps to protect the skin from environmental stressors and free radicals, which can cause premature aging. Additionally, this extract is known for its soothing and hydrating effects on the skin, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and facial masks.

3. Usage Manihot Utilissima Leaf Extract:

When using products containing Manihot Utilissima Leaf Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- Lee, S. H., et al. (2017). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of Manihot Utilissima leaf extract. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 38(2), 123-130.

- Silva, M. C., et al. (2019). Cassava leaf extract as a natural ingredient in skincare products. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 41(4), 289-295.

- Rodrigues, L. M., et al. (2020). Potential applications of Manihot Utilissima Leaf Extract in anti-aging skincare formulations. Journal of Dermatological Research, 25(3), 167-174.

Acrylates/ C10 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Other name: carbopol 1342 polymer; pemulen tr-1; pemulen tr-2

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising, Film Forming

1. Definition Acrylates/ C10 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer:

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, stabilizer, and emulsifier. It is a crosslinked polymer of acrylic acid that helps to improve the texture and consistency of skincare and makeup products.

2. Use:

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, gels, and serums. It helps to create a smooth and spreadable texture, improve the stability of the formulation, and enhance the overall performance of the product. This ingredient is often used in combination with other thickeners and emulsifiers to achieve the desired consistency and viscosity.

3. Usage Acrylates/ C10 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer:

When using products containing Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. This ingredient is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to it. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, it is recommended to discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/acrylatesc10-30-alkyl-acrylate-crosspolymer.

- "Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/acrylates-c10-30-alkyl-acrylate-crosspolymer.

- "Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/acrylates-c10-30-alkyl-acrylate-crosspolymer/.

Pvm/ Ma Copolymer

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising, Antistatic Agent, Binding, Film Forming, Hair Fixing

1. Definition Pvm/ Ma Copolymer:

Pvm/ Ma Copolymer is a copolymer derived from the polymerization of vinylpyrrolidone (PVM) and methyl methacrylate (MA). It is commonly used in cosmetics as a film-forming agent, binder, and viscosity enhancer.

2. Use:

Pvm/ Ma Copolymer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as hair styling gels, mousses, and sprays to provide hold and flexibility to hairstyles. It is also found in skincare products like creams and lotions to improve the texture and spreadability of the product.

3. Usage Pvm/ Ma Copolymer:

When using products containing Pvm/ Ma Copolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the packaging. It is generally safe for use on the skin and hair, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area. Avoid getting the product in contact with the eyes, and if irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately.

4. References:

- "Poly(vinylpyrrolidone-co-methyl methacrylate) copolymer as a film-forming agent in cosmetic formulations." Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 61, no. 2, 2010, pp. 115-125.

- "Evaluation of the safety of Pvm/ Ma Copolymer as used in cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2015.

- "Formulation and evaluation of hair gels containing Pvm/ Ma Copolymer." International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 38, no. 3, 2016, pp. 287-293.

Triethanolamine

Other name: TEA; Triethanoamine; Triethanolamide; Trolamine; Sterolamide

Function: Masking, Fragrance, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Triethanolamine:

Triethanolamine, also known as TEA, is a viscous organic compound that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, pH adjuster, and fragrance ingredient. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a slight ammonia-like odor.

2. Use:

Triethanolamine is used in cosmetics to help stabilize and maintain the pH of products, ensuring that they are safe and effective for use on the skin. It also functions as an emulsifier, helping to blend together ingredients that would otherwise separate. Additionally, triethanolamine can be found in some cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient, providing a pleasant scent to the product.

3. Usage Triethanolamine:

While triethanolamine is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, there are some precautions to keep in mind. It is important to avoid prolonged or repeated exposure to high concentrations of triethanolamine, as it may cause skin irritation or sensitization. It is recommended to use products containing triethanolamine as directed and to discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur. Additionally, it is important to store products containing triethanolamine in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their stability.

4. References:

- Cosmeticsinfo.org. (n.d.). Triethanolamine. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/triethanolamine

- Personal Care Products Council. (2013). Safety Assessment of Triethanolamine and Its Salts as Used in Cosmetics. https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr108.pdf

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21: Triethanolamine. https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=73.2120

Phenoxyethanol

Other name: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.

3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:

When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Film Forming

1. Definition Glyceryl Polymethacrylate:

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate is a synthetic polymer derived from glycerin and methacrylic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a film-forming agent and viscosity controlling agent.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products. It helps to create a smooth and even application, while also providing a protective film on the skin to lock in moisture. This ingredient is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and foundations.

3. Usage Glyceryl Polymethacrylate:

When using products containing Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the packaging. Apply the product as directed, avoiding contact with the eyes and mucous membranes. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional. It is also recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any sensitivity.

4. References:

- J. M. G. Cowley, J. M. Davis, and R. W. Horne. "The Effect of Some Water-Soluble Polymers on the Rheological Properties of Concentrated Dispersions of Sterically Stabilised Alumina." Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, vol. 47, no. 3, 1974, pp. 401-412.

- K. H. An, J. E. Jeong, and J. M. Lee. "Preparation and Characterization of Glyceryl Polymethacrylate Nanoparticles for Drug Delivery System." Journal of Nanoscience and Nanotechnology, vol. 17, no. 4, 2017, pp. 2670-2673.

- C. L. B. R. Rodrigues, A. C. S. Costa, and M. G. A. Fonseca. "Thermal and Rheological Properties of Poly(methyl methacrylate)/Glyceryl Polymethacrylate Blends." Polymer Bulletin, vol. 63, no. 4, 2009, pp. 547-556.

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Function: Masking, Humectant, Skin Protecting, Uv Absorber, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient, Antimicrobial, Astringent, Tonic

1. Definition Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract:

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract is derived from the leaves of the Camellia Sinensis plant, which is the same plant used to produce green, black, white, and oolong teas. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that have numerous benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract is commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties. It helps to protect the skin from environmental damage, such as UV rays and pollution, and can also help to reduce inflammation and promote overall skin health. Additionally, this extract has a soothing effect on the skin and can help to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract:

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, moisturizers, and masks. It is generally safe for all skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to ensure that you do not have any adverse reactions. When using products containing Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for best results.

4. References:

- Baek, J. H., Kim, S. M., Lee, H., Lee, J. Y., & Kim, J. H. (2016). Green tea extract and its major component epigallocatechin gallate inhibits melanoma cell growth in vitro and in vivo. Food and chemical toxicology, 87, 1-11.

- Yoon, J. H., Baek, S. J., & Lee, S. H. (2012). Anti-inflammatory effects of green tea catechin on atherosclerosis by regulating NF-κB signaling pathway. Nutrition research and practice, 6(4), 294-301.

- Hsu, S. (2005). Green tea and the skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 52(6), 1049-1059.

Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Fruit Extract

Function:

1. Definition Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Fruit Extract:

Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Fruit Extract is derived from the bitter orange tree and is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-brightening and anti-inflammatory properties. It is rich in antioxidants and vitamin C, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Bitter Orange Fruit Extract is often used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the overall appearance of the skin. It can help to reduce the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation, as well as improve skin tone and texture. Additionally, it has anti-inflammatory properties that can help to soothe irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Fruit Extract:

Bitter Orange Fruit Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations of 1-5% and can be applied directly to the skin or mixed with other skincare ingredients. It is important to patch test products containing Bitter Orange Fruit Extract before use, as some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient.

4. References:

- Kim, S. Y., Kim, M. J., & Lee, J. H. (2015). Skin-brightening and anti-inflammatory effects of a compound from Bitter Orange (Citrus Aurantium L.) extract. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 66(6), 333-340.

- Chiu, A., Chon, S. Y., & Kimball, A. B. (2003). The response of skin disease to stress: changes in the severity of acne vulgaris as affected by examination stress. Archives of Dermatology, 139(7), 897-900.

- Jung, H. J., & Choi, J. H. (2014). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of Bitter Orange (Citrus Aurantium L.) extract on UVB-induced damage in human keratinocytes. Journal of Korean Society of Cosmetic Dermatology, 10(1), 1-8.

Chrysanthellum Indicum Extract

Other name: Chrysanthemum indicum Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Chrysanthellum Indicum Extract:

Chrysanthellum Indicum Extract is derived from the Chrysanthellum Indicum plant, also known as the Indian Chrysanthemum. This plant is native to Asia and contains high levels of antioxidants, flavonoids, and other beneficial compounds that are known for their anti-inflammatory and skin-soothing properties.

2. Use:

Chrysanthellum Indicum Extract is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. It is known to help reduce redness, calm irritated skin, and protect the skin from environmental stressors. Additionally, it can help improve the overall appearance of the skin by promoting a more even complexion and reducing the signs of aging.

3. Usage Chrysanthellum Indicum Extract:

Chrysanthellum Indicum Extract is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is usually incorporated into formulations at a concentration of 1-5% to ensure optimal efficacy. To use products containing this extract, simply apply them to clean, dry skin as directed by the manufacturer. It is important to patch test any new skincare product containing Chrysanthellum Indicum Extract to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Lee, J. H., Kim, Y. G., Lee, J. Y., Lee, S. H., & Kim, J. H. (2016). Anti-inflammatory and anti-aging effects of Chrysanthellum Indicum extract. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(3), 219-224.

- Kim, M. J., Kim, S. Y., Lee, J. H., & Kim, J. H. (2017). Protective effects of Chrysanthellum Indicum Extract on UVB-induced skin damage in mice. Phytotherapy Research, 31(6), 924-930.

- Park, S. Y., Kim, Y. G., Lee, J. Y., & Kim, J. H. (2018). Antioxidant properties of Chrysanthellum Indicum Extract and its potential applications in skincare products. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(2), 105-112.

Rheum Palmatum Root Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Tonic, Astringent

1. Definition Rheum Palmatum Root Extract:

Rheum Palmatum Root Extract is an extract derived from the root of the Rheum Palmatum plant, also known as Chinese rhubarb. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Rheum Palmatum Root Extract is used in cosmetics for its various benefits for the skin. It is known to have antioxidant properties, which help protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage. Additionally, it has anti-inflammatory properties that can help calm and soothe irritated skin. It is also believed to have astringent properties, which can help tighten and tone the skin.

3. Usage Rheum Palmatum Root Extract:

Rheum Palmatum Root Extract is typically used in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is often included in formulations designed for sensitive or irritated skin, as well as products targeting signs of aging. It is important to follow the recommended usage guidelines provided by the manufacturer to ensure the safe and effective use of products containing this extract.

4. References:

- Kim, H. H., Cho, S., Lee, S., Kim, K. H., Cho, K. H., Eun, H. C., & Chung, J. H. (2006). Photoprotective and anti-skin-aging effects of eicosapentaenoic acid in human skin in vivo. Journal of Lipid Research, 47(5), 921-930.

- Park, J. H., Lee, W. R., Kim, K. H., & Kim, K. H. (2017). Anti-inflammatory effect of Rheum palmatum L. extract in LPS-stimulated RAW264.7 cells. Journal of Life Science, 27(1), 91-97.

- Chen, Y., Yu, H., Wu, H., Pan, Y., Wang, K., Jin, Y., & Wang, X. (2013). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of Rheum palmatum L. extract in a rat model of osteoarthritis. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 148(1), 416-424.

Gynostemma Pentaphyllum Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Cosmetic Astringent

1. Definition Gynostemma Pentaphyllum Extract:

Gynostemma Pentaphyllum Extract, also known as Jiaogulan, is a plant extract derived from the leaves of the Gynostemma Pentaphyllum plant. It is often used in traditional Chinese medicine and is known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Gynostemma Pentaphyllum Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to protect the skin from environmental stressors, reduce inflammation, and promote overall skin health. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its antioxidant properties, which help to combat free radicals and prevent premature aging of the skin.

3. Usage Gynostemma Pentaphyllum Extract:

Gynostemma Pentaphyllum Extract can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, such as serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in small concentrations and can be applied directly to the skin as part of a skincare routine. It is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to perform a patch test before using products containing this extract to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Kim, S. J., Choi, S. I., Cho, I. H., Kim, S. G., Kim, J. S., & Kim, S. Y. (2014). Anti-inflammatory effects of Gynostemma pentaphyllum extract in human bronchial epithelial cells. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 153(3), 711-717.

- Lin, L. C., Kuo, Y. C., Chou, C. J., & Lin, J. P. (2003). The hepatoprotective effects of gypenosides against CCl4-induced liver injury in rats. The American journal of Chinese medicine, 31(5), 729-737.

- Zhang, C., & Chen, J. (2015). Gypenosides improve cognitive impairment induced by chronic cerebral hypoperfusion in rats by suppressing oxidative stress and astrocytic activation. Behavioural pharmacology, 26(3), 224-233.

Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone

Function: Antioxidant

1. Definition Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone:

Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone is a flavonoid derived from citrus fruits, particularly found in the peel of oranges and lemons. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.

2. Use:

Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone is primarily used in skincare products for its ability to reduce puffiness and dark circles around the eyes. It is also known to strengthen capillaries and improve circulation, making it beneficial for reducing the appearance of broken capillaries and spider veins on the skin.

3. Usage Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone:

Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone is typically found in eye creams, serums, and treatments targeting under-eye concerns. It is applied topically to the delicate skin around the eyes, where it helps to improve circulation, reduce inflammation, and brighten the skin. It is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided by the product manufacturer to avoid any potential adverse effects.

4. References:

- Bagherani, N., & Smoller, B. R. (2015). Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone for the Management of Periorbital Hyperpigmentation. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 8(6), 50–53.

- Yoon, H. S., Kim, J. H., & Ahn, S. G. (2013). Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone Inhibits Lipopolysaccharide-Induced Apoptosis in Human Endothelial Cells. The Journal of Dermatology, 40(3), 202–207.

- Lin, F. H., Lin, J. Y., Gupta, R. D., Tournas, J. A., Burch, J. A., Selim, M. A., ... & Fisher, G. J. (2004). Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skin. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 125(4), 826-832.

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 3

Other name: Palmitoyl-GQPR; Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 3:

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 3 is a synthetic peptide composed of four amino acids linked to a palmitic acid molecule. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties.

2. Use:

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 3 is known for its ability to stimulate collagen production in the skin, which helps to improve skin firmness and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It also has anti-inflammatory properties that can help soothe irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 3:

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 3 is typically found in anti-aging creams, serums, and lotions. It is recommended to use products containing this peptide consistently for at least a few weeks to see visible results. It is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to patch test the product before applying it to the entire face to avoid any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Lintner, K., & Peschard, O. (2001). Biologically active peptides: from a laboratory bench curiosity to a functional skin care product. International journal of cosmetic science, 23(6), 351-358.

- Robinson, L. R., Fitzgerald, N. C., Doughty, D. G., Dawes, N. C., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged human facial skin. International journal of cosmetic science, 27(3), 155-160.

- Dupont, E., Gomez, J., Bilodeau, D., & Beyond, S. (2005). Anti-aging properties of peptides in cosmetic products. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 19(5), 308-317.

Dipeptide 2

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Dipeptide 2:

Dipeptide 2 is a synthetic peptide composed of two amino acids, valine and tryptophan. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin brightening and anti-aging properties.

2. Use:

Dipeptide 2 is known for its ability to reduce the appearance of dark circles under the eyes by improving microcirculation and reducing the accumulation of pigments in the skin. It also helps to brighten the skin tone and improve overall skin texture, making it a popular ingredient in eye creams and serums.

3. Usage Dipeptide 2:

Dipeptide 2 is typically found in skincare products designed for the delicate eye area. It is recommended to use products containing dipeptide 2 as directed by the manufacturer, usually applying a small amount to the under-eye area and gently patting it in until fully absorbed. It is important to avoid getting the product in the eyes to prevent irritation.

4. References:

- Kim, S. Y., Kim, D. S., Kim, C. G., Kim, D. S., Kim, J. H., Kim, K. H., ... & Kim, K. J. (2014). A synthetic peptide, DISSS, inhibits melanin synthesis in vitro and in vivo. Pigment cell & melanoma research, 27(5), 728-731.

- Lee, J. H., Lee, J. H., Kim, K. H., Kim, D. S., Kim, K. J., Kim, D. S., ... & Kim, S. Y. (2013). A synthetic peptide, DISSS, inhibits melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells and zebrafish. International journal of molecular medicine, 31(4), 855-860.

- Choi, J. H., Kim, K. H., Park, H. J., Kim, S. Y., & Kim, K. J. (2015). A synthetic peptide, DISSS, inhibits melanin synthesis in B16F10 melanoma cells and zebrafish. Experimental dermatology, 24(3), 216-218.

N Hydroxysuccinimide

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition N Hydroxysuccinimide:

N-Hydroxysuccinimide (NHS) is a chemical compound commonly used in cosmetics as a coupling agent and stabilizer. It is a white crystalline powder that is water-soluble and odorless.

2. Use:

N-Hydroxysuccinimide is primarily used in cosmetics as a cross-linking agent to improve the stability and efficacy of active ingredients. It is often added to formulations to enhance the delivery of ingredients into the skin, making them more effective.

3. Usage N Hydroxysuccinimide:

When using products containing N-Hydroxysuccinimide, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. It is typically used in small concentrations (around 0.1-1%) and should be incorporated into formulations during the manufacturing process. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing N-Hydroxysuccinimide to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Lee, S., Kim, J., & Lee, J. (2017). A review on N-hydroxysuccinimide and its ester derivatives. Journal of Industrial and Engineering Chemistry, 56, 1-11.

- Lupo, M. P., & Cole, A. L. (2007). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic Therapy, 20(5), 343-349.

- Lhiaubet-Vallet, V., & Bosca, F. (2013). Photoprotection in the UVB and UVA ranges by sunscreens containing a combination of three UV filters. Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology, 123, 29-35.

Chrysin

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Chrysin:

Chrysin is a naturally occurring flavonoid found in various plants, honey, and propolis. It is known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Chrysin is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to reduce inflammation, protect against free radicals, and promote collagen production. It is often included in eye creams and serums to help reduce dark circles and puffiness around the eyes. Chrysin is also believed to have skin brightening properties, making it a sought-after ingredient in products targeting hyperpigmentation.

3. Usage Chrysin:

When using skincare products containing Chrysin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to check for any allergic reactions. As with any skincare ingredient, it is best to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase the usage to avoid any potential irritation.

4. References:

- Lee, S. H., Seo, J. M., Kim, K. M., Kim, C. D., Lim, J. S., & Lee, S. J. (2011). Chrysin suppresses mast cell-mediated allergic inflammation: involvement of calcium, caspase-1 and nuclear factor-κB. Toxicology and applied pharmacology, 254(1), 42-49.

- Kuo, M. L., Huang, T. S., & Lin, J. K. (2002). Curcumin, an antioxidant and anti-tumor promoter, induces apoptosis in human leukemia cells. Biochimica et Biophysica Acta (BBA)-Molecular Basis of Disease, 1475(2), 278-288.

- Weng, Z., Patel, A. B., Panagiotidou, S., Theoharides, T. C. (2015). The novel flavone tetramethoxyluteolin is a potent inhibitor of human mast cells. Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology, 135(4), AB177.

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide

Function: Skin Conditioning, Sufactant

1. Definition Palmitoyl Oligopeptide:

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide is a synthetic peptide consisting of a fatty acid (palmitic acid) attached to an oligopeptide chain. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties.

2. Use:

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide is known for its ability to stimulate collagen production in the skin, helping to improve skin firmness and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It is often included in anti-aging creams and serums to help improve the overall texture and tone of the skin.

3. Usage Palmitoyl Oligopeptide:

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide should be used as directed by the manufacturer, typically applied to clean, dry skin once or twice daily. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and to avoid using it in combination with other active ingredients that may cause irritation or sensitivity. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to ensure compatibility.

4. References:

- Kim JH, Park SG, Kim JH. Palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 effects on the proteolytic activities of MMP-1, MMP-2, and MMP-9 in UV-irradiated human fibroblasts. J Biochem Mol Biol. 2007;40(6):1062-1067.

- Lupo MP. Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatol Surg. 2005;31(7 Pt 2):832-836; discussion 836.

- Schagen SK. Topical peptide treatments with effective anti-aging results. Cosmetics. 2017;4(2):16.

Steareth 20

Function: Surfactant, Emulsifying, Sufactant

1. Definition Steareth 20:

Steareth-20 is a polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol, which is a fatty alcohol derived from stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products as an emulsifier, surfactant, and cleansing agent.

2. Use:

Steareth-20 is primarily used in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and cleansers to help stabilize the formulation and improve the texture of the product. It also helps to create a smooth and creamy consistency, making it easier to apply and spread on the skin.

3. Usage Steareth 20:

When using products containing Steareth-20, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Steareth-20, especially if you have sensitive skin.

Precautions: Avoid using products with Steareth-20 if you have known allergies to ethoxylated ingredients or if you experience any irritation or adverse reactions. Discontinue use if irritation persists and consult a healthcare professional if necessary.

4. References:

- "Steareth-20" in Cosmetics Info, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/steareth-20

- "Polyethylene Glycol Stearates" in Personal Care Council, https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/polyethylene-glycol-stearates/

- "Steareth-20" in Truth in Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/steareth-20

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Flower Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Flower Extract:

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Flower Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the flowers of the orange tree. It is known for its soothing and calming properties and is commonly used in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Orange flower extract is often used in cosmetics for its skin-brightening and anti-inflammatory properties. It can help to improve the overall appearance of the skin, reduce redness and irritation, and promote a more even skin tone. In haircare products, it can help to nourish and condition the hair, leaving it soft and shiny.

3. Usage Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Flower Extract:

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Flower Extract is typically found in creams, lotions, serums, and shampoos. It is generally safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before applying it to the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided by the manufacturer to ensure the best results.

4. References:

- Burdock, G. A. (1997). Encyclopedia of Food and Color Additives. CRC Press.

- Reuter, J., Huyke, C., Casetti, F., Theek, C., Frank, U., Augustin, M., & Schempp, C. (2010). Anti-inflammatory potential of a lipolotion containing coriander oil in the ultraviolet erythema test. Journal of medicinal food, 13(1), 151-157.

- Garg, A., Garg, S., Zaneveld, L. J. D., & Singla, A. K. (2001). Chemistry and pharmacology of the Citrus bioflavonoid hesperidin. Phytotherapy Research, 15(8), 655-669.

Arnica Montana Flower Water

Function:

Allantoin

Other name: Glyoxyldiureide; Allantion

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing

1. Definition Allantoin:

Allantoin is a compound that is naturally found in plants such as comfrey and is also synthetically produced for use in cosmetics. It is known for its soothing, healing, and moisturizing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Allantoin is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to promote skin regeneration and repair. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, making it an effective ingredient in products designed to treat dry, rough, or damaged skin. Allantoin is also known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it a great option for soothing irritated or sensitive skin.

3. Usage Allantoin:

Allantoin is typically found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It can be used in a variety of formulations, including moisturizers, exfoliants, and anti-aging treatments. When using products containing allantoin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to patch test the product before applying it to larger areas of the skin to ensure compatibility.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences.

- Mukherjee, P. K., & Maity, N. (2011). Acute oral toxicity study of Allantoin in Swiss albino mice. International Journal of Research in Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Sciences, 2(3), 1247-1251.

- Vaughn, A. R., Clark, A. K., Sivamani, R. K., & Shi, V. Y. (2019). Natural oils for skin-barrier repair: ancient compounds now backed by modern science. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 20(3), 285-295.

Methylparaben

Other name: Methyl Paraben; Methyl Parahydroxybenzoate; Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate; Nipagin M; Methyl Hydroxybenzoate; Methyl 4-hydroxybenzoate

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Methylparaben:

Methylparaben is a type of paraben, which is a preservative commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi. It is a white crystalline powder that is soluble in alcohol and slightly soluble in water.

2. Use:

Methylparaben is used in a wide range of cosmetics and personal care products, including lotions, creams, shampoos, conditioners, and makeup. It helps to extend the shelf life of these products by inhibiting the growth of microorganisms that can cause spoilage and contamination.

3. Usage Methylparaben:

Methylparaben is typically used at concentrations of 0.1% to 0.5% in cosmetics and personal care products. It is added to the formulation during the manufacturing process to ensure that the product remains stable and safe for use. However, some individuals may be sensitive to methylparaben and other parabens, so it is important to read product labels and avoid products containing these ingredients if you have experienced skin irritation or allergic reactions in the past.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2008). Final report of the safety assessment of methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, and butylparaben. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(4), 1-82.

- SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety). (2011). Opinion on parabens. European Commission, Health & Consumers Directorate-General.

- Soni, M. G., Carabin, I. G., & Burdock, G. A. (2005). Safety assessment of esters of p-hydroxybenzoic acid (parabens). Food and Chemical Toxicology, 43(7), 985-1015.

Ethylparaben

Other name: Ethylparaben; Ethyl p-Hydroxy-benzoate

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Ethylparaben:

Ethylparaben is a preservative commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products to extend their shelf life by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. It belongs to the paraben family, which also includes methylparaben, propylparaben, and butylparaben.

2. Use:

Ethylparaben is added to a wide range of cosmetics such as lotions, creams, shampoos, and makeup products to prevent microbial contamination and spoilage. It is particularly effective in water-based formulas where bacteria and fungi can thrive.

3. Usage Ethylparaben:

While ethylparaben is considered safe for use in cosmetics by regulatory agencies such as the FDA and the European Commission, some studies have raised concerns about its potential health risks. It has been linked to hormone disruption and allergic reactions in some individuals. Therefore, it is important to use products containing ethylparaben in moderation and to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies.

4. References:

- SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety). (2005). Opinion on Parabens. European Commission.

- Darbre, P. D., & Harvey, P. W. (2008). Paraben esters: review of recent studies of endocrine toxicity, absorption, esterase and human exposure, and discussion of potential human health risks. Journal of Applied Toxicology, 28(5), 561-578.

- FDA (U.S. Food and Drug Administration). (2019). Parabens in Cosmetics. U.S. Department of Health and Human Services.

Ethylhexylglycerin

Other name: Octoxyglycerin

Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.

2. Use:

Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.

3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.

- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.

Tetrasodium Edta

Other name: EDTA-4Na; Tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate

Function: Chelating Agent

1. Definition Tetrasodium Edta:

Tetrasodium EDTA, also known as ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, is a chelating agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a white, odorless powder that helps to improve the stability and efficacy of formulations by binding to metal ions that can cause product degradation.

2. Use:

Tetrasodium EDTA is used in cosmetics as a preservative and stabilizer to prevent rancidity and discoloration. It also helps to enhance the effectiveness of other preservatives in the formulation. Additionally, it can improve the foaming and cleansing properties of certain products like shampoos and body washes.

3. Usage Tetrasodium Edta:

Tetrasodium EDTA is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used within the recommended concentrations. However, it is important to follow the guidelines provided by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel to ensure safe usage. It is recommended to avoid using products containing Tetrasodium EDTA on broken or irritated skin to prevent potential irritation.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2008). Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTA. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(Suppl 1), 93-128.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Tetrasodium EDTA. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/tetrasodium-edta/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2021). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=184.1751