Full ingredients list Annemarie Borlind Anti-Aging Make-Up

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
1		Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Squalane (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Refatting)
1 2	A	Silica (Opacifying, Viscosity Controlling, Abrasive, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Anticaking Agent)
1	A	Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride (Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1	A	Sorbitan Oleate (Fragrance, Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Vegetable Oil (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Increasing Agent)	Bad for oily skin
8		Fragrance (Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant)	Good for dry skin
1		Sorbitol (Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent, Plasticizer)
2		Mica (Cosmetic Colorant, Opacifying)
1	A	Camellia Japonica Seed Oil (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	B	Polyglyceryl 6 Dioleate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Surfactant, Emulsifying)
1	A	Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil (Humectant, Hair Conditioning)
1	A	Phytosteryl Macadamiate (Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning)
1	A	Dextrin Palmitate (Anticaking Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
2 9		Zinc Oxide (Skin Protecting, Cosmetic Colorant, Sunscreen Agent, Bulking Agent)	UV Protection Good for oily skin
1 3		Zinc Pca (Humectant, Skin Conditioning)
3 4		Zinc Sulfate (Antimicrobial, Cosmetic Astringent, Cosmetic Biocide, Antiplaque)
1	A	Magnesium Sulfate (Hair Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Bulking Agent)
1	A	Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1	A	Magnesium Stearate (Colorant, Cosmetic Colorant, Bulking Agent, Anticaking Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Moisturising)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1 2	A	Hydrogenated Lecithin (Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Suspending Agent- Nonsurfactant)
1		Tocopherol	Good for dry skin Anti Aging
1	A	Xanthan Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming)
1 3		Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice Powder (Skin Conditioning)	Good for sensitive skin
1	A	Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil	Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Acmella Oleracea Extract (Skin Protecting)
4 5		Limonene (Solvent, Perfuming, Deodorant)	Allergen
1 4	B	Lactic Acid (Fragrance, Humectant, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Exfoliant, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Humectant)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin
3 5		Geraniol (Masking, Fragrance, Tonic)	Allergen
3 4		Citronellol (Masking, Fragrance)	Allergen
3 5		Benzyl Salicylate (Masking, Fragrance, Uv Absorber)	Allergen
3		Linalool (Masking, Deodorant, Fragrance)	Allergen
3 5		Citral (Masking, Fragrance, Flavoring Agent)	Allergen
1 3		Titanium Dioxide (Cosmetic Colorant, Uv Absorber, Sunscreen Agent, Opacifying)	UV Protection Good for sensitive skin
1		CI 77492 (Colorant, Cosmetic Colorant)
1 2		CI 77491 (Colorant, Cosmetic Colorant)
2		CI 77499 (Colorant, Cosmetic Colorant)

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate:

Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate is a skin conditioning agent and emollient that is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a mixture of esters of caprylic acid and capric acid, which are fatty acids derived from coconut oil.

2. Use:

Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate is used in skincare products such as moisturizers, creams, lotions, and sunscreens to provide a smooth and silky feel to the skin. It helps to improve the spreadability of products and enhances the skin's hydration by forming a protective barrier on the skin's surface.

3. Usage Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate:

Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-10% in cosmetic formulations. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin, and is often included in products designed for those with dry or dehydrated skin. It is well-tolerated and non-comedogenic, making it a popular choice for a wide range of skincare products.

4. References:

- Melo, M. O., et al. (2018). A novel approach to the formulation of cosmetic emulsions based on caprylic/capric triglycerides. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(6), 1051-1059.

- Nastiti, C. M. R. R., et al. (2015). Polyglyceryl-3 laurate: a novel surfactant for cosmetic formulations. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 37(6), 592-599.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2019). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

Squalane

Other name: Perhydrosqualene; Pripure 3759

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Refatting

1. Definition Squalane:

Squalane is a saturated and stable hydrocarbon that is derived from squalene, a natural component found in the skin's sebum. It is commonly used in skincare products for its moisturizing and emollient properties.

2. Use:

Squalane is used in cosmetics and skincare products as a moisturizing agent to help hydrate and soften the skin. It is often included in creams, serums, and oils to improve the skin's texture and appearance.

3. Usage Squalane:

Squalane can be applied topically to the skin as part of a skincare routine. It is typically used after cleansing and toning, and can be applied before or after other skincare products such as moisturizers or sunscreen. Squalane is well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, and can help to improve the skin's hydration levels and overall health.

Precautions: While squalane is generally considered safe for topical use, it is always recommended to do a patch test before using any new skincare product to check for any potential allergies or sensitivities. Additionally, individuals with specific skin conditions or concerns should consult with a dermatologist before incorporating squalane into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2005). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2015). Cosmeceuticals. Philadelphia: Saunders.

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327-348.

Silica

Other name: Silicon dioxide; Silicic anhydride; Siliceous earth

Function: Opacifying, Viscosity Controlling, Abrasive, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Anticaking Agent

1. Definition Silica:

Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a mineral often used in cosmetics for its absorbent and thickening properties. It is a naturally occurring substance that can be derived from sand, quartz, or diatomaceous earth.

2. Use:

Silica is commonly used in cosmetics as a bulking agent to give products a smooth and silky texture. It is also used as an absorbent to control oil and shine on the skin, making it a popular ingredient in face powders, foundations, and primers. Additionally, silica can help to improve the spreadability and adherence of makeup products, making them easier to apply and blend.

3. Usage Silica:

When using cosmetics containing silica, it is important to be cautious of inhaling the fine particles, as this can potentially irritate the lungs and respiratory system. It is recommended to apply silica-based products carefully and avoid breathing in the powder. Some individuals may also be sensitive to silica, experiencing skin irritation or allergic reactions, so it is advisable to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient extensively.

4. References:

- K. T. K. Lu, "Silica as a Cosmetic Ingredient," in Cosmetics & Toiletries, vol. 134, no. 9, pp. 40-47, 2019.

- S. M. R. Khan et al., "Silica in Cosmetics: A Review," in Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 68, no. 3, pp. 185-197, 2017.

- M. A. S. Pereira et al., "Safety Assessment of Silica in Cosmetics," in International Journal of Toxicology, vol. 36, no. 3, pp. 235-253, 2017.

Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride

Function: Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a combination of fatty acids derived from coconut oil and glycerin. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is used in various cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums to provide moisturization and improve the texture of the skin. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and nourished.

3. Usage Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some precautions should be taken. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/caprylic-capric-triglyceride/.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Sorbitan Oleate

Function: Fragrance, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Sorbitan Oleate:

Sorbitan Oleate is a synthetic compound derived from sorbitol and oleic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, surfactant, and stabilizer.

2. Use:

Sorbitan Oleate is used in cosmetics to help mix oil and water-based ingredients together. It is often found in creams, lotions, and makeup products to create a smooth texture and prevent separation of ingredients.

3. Usage Sorbitan Oleate:

When using cosmetics containing Sorbitan Oleate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and experience allergic reactions or skin irritation. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with Sorbitan Oleate to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- "Sorbitan Oleate" in the Cosmetics Info database. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sorbitan-oleate

- "Safety Assessment of Sorbitan Esters as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review. Retrieved from https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/sorbitan%20esters.pdf

- "Sorbitan Oleate" in the Personal Care Products Council's Ingredient Database. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredients-dictionary/sorbitan-oleate

Vegetable Oil

Other name: Olus Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Increasing Agent

1. Definition Vegetable Oil:

Vegetable oil in cosmetics refers to oils derived from various plant sources such as seeds, nuts, and fruits that are used in skincare and haircare products for their moisturizing, nourishing, and protective properties.

2. Use:

Vegetable oils are commonly used in cosmetics as emollients to soften and hydrate the skin, as well as in hair products to add shine and improve manageability. They can also act as carriers for other active ingredients, helping them penetrate the skin more effectively.

3. Usage Vegetable Oil:

When using vegetable oil in cosmetics, it is important to consider the specific properties of the oil and how it may interact with your skin type. Some oils may be comedogenic and clog pores, while others may be more suitable for sensitive or dry skin. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new oil to check for any allergic reactions or sensitivities.

4. References:

- "Vegetable Oils in Cosmetics: Properties, Benefits, and Applications" by Mariana Kamenetsky and Gabriela Bregni

- "The Benefits of Using Natural Oils in Cosmetics" by Sarah Villafranco, MD

- "A Review on Plant-Derived Natural Oils as Potential Skin and Hair Health Agents" by R. S. Verma and R. K. Pandey

Fragrance

Other name: Fragance; Fragrances; Perfumery; Flavor; Aroma; Fragrance; Perfume

Function: Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant

1. Definition Fragrance:

Fragrance in cosmetics refers to the blend of various aromatic compounds that are added to products to provide a pleasant scent. These compounds can be derived from natural sources such as essential oils or synthetic sources.

2. Use:

Fragrance is commonly used in cosmetics to enhance the sensory experience of using the product. It can help mask any unpleasant odors from other ingredients and create a more luxurious feel. Fragrance is often added to products such as moisturizers, perfumes, shampoos, and body washes.

3. Usage Fragrance:

When using cosmetics containing fragrance, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to certain fragrances. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and storage of the product to ensure the fragrance remains stable and effective.

4. References:

- Steinemann, A. (2019). Fragranced consumer products: exposures and effects from emissions. Air Quality, Atmosphere & Health, 12(6), 643-645.

- Lachenmeier, D. W., & Haltner, E. (2019). Fragrance allergens in household cleaning products. Environmental Science and Pollution Research, 26(15), 15145-15147.

- Basketter, D. A., & Angelini, G. (2019). Fragrance allergens in fine fragrances and cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis, 80(3), 145-147.

Sorbitol

Other name: D-Glucitol

Function: Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent, Plasticizer

1. Definition Sorbitol:

Sorbitol is a sugar alcohol that is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant and thickening agent. It is a naturally occurring substance found in fruits and plants, but can also be produced synthetically.

2. Use:

Sorbitol is used in cosmetics to help attract moisture to the skin, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, lotions, and creams. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, leaving it feeling smooth and supple. Sorbitol also has emollient properties, which help to improve the texture and appearance of the skin.

3. Usage Sorbitol:

Sorbitol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow the recommended guidelines for its use. It is typically used in concentrations of up to 10% in skincare products. However, some individuals may be sensitive to sorbitol and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing sorbitol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 5780, Sorbitol. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Sorbitol

- Cosmetics Info. Sorbitol. https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sorbitol

- Personal Care Council. Sorbitol. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/sorbitol

Mica

Other name: CI 77019; Muscovite

Function: Cosmetic Colorant, Opacifying

1. Definition Mica:

Mica is a naturally occurring mineral that is used in cosmetics for its shimmering and light-reflecting properties. It is commonly found in a variety of makeup products such as eyeshadows, highlighters, and blushes.

2. Use:

Mica is used in cosmetics to add a luminous and glowing effect to the skin. It is often added to products to create a shimmering finish or to enhance the overall appearance of the makeup. Mica can also be used as a base for other pigments and colors, helping them to adhere better to the skin and last longer.

3. Usage Mica:

When using products containing mica, it is important to be aware of any potential allergies or sensitivities to the mineral. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions when using products that contain mica. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to determine if any adverse reactions occur. Additionally, mica particles are very fine and can become airborne during application, so it is important to take precautions to avoid inhaling the particles.

4. References:

- "Mica in Cosmetics" by FDA: https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/mica-cosmetics

- "The Truth About Mica" by Environmental Working Group: https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredients/701179-MICA/

- "Mica: The glittering dangers in your makeup bag" by The Guardian: https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/2014/jul/24/mica-electronics-cosmetics-india-child-labour-minerals

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil

Other name: Camellia Oil; Tsubaki Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Camellia Japonica Seed Oil:

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil is a botanical oil extracted from the seeds of the Camellia Japonica plant, also known as the Japanese camellia. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil is used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, nourishing, and anti-aging properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, protect against environmental damage, and promote a healthy complexion. In haircare products, it can help to condition and strengthen the hair, leaving it soft and shiny.

3. Usage Camellia Japonica Seed Oil:

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil can be used in a variety of cosmetic products, including face creams, serums, hair oils, and body lotions. It can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or mixed with other ingredients to create customized skincare formulations. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin, and can be used daily as part of a skincare routine.

4. References:

- Kim, J., et al. (2012). Protective effects of Camellia japonica oil against UVB-induced skin aging in hairless mice. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 144(2), 464-473.

- Hwang, E., et al. (2014). Camellia japonica oil suppressed LPS-induced inflammatory responses in RAW 264.7 macrophages and zebrafish. Journal of Functional Foods, 10, 225-235.

- Park, K., et al. (2017). Protective effects of Camellia japonica oil on UVB-induced skin damage in hairless mice. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 16(3), 419-426.

Polyglyceryl 6 Dioleate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Surfactant, Emulsifying

1. Definition Polyglyceryl 6 Dioleate:

Polyglyceryl 6 Dioleate is an emulsifier derived from natural sources such as vegetable oils. It is a polyglyceryl ester of oleic acid, which helps to stabilize oil and water mixtures in cosmetic formulations.

2. Use:

Polyglyceryl 6 Dioleate is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier to create stable emulsions, allowing water and oil-based ingredients to mix together seamlessly. It helps to improve the texture and consistency of products, providing a smooth and luxurious feel to the skin.

3. Usage Polyglyceryl 6 Dioleate:

Polyglyceryl 6 Dioleate is typically used in a variety of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, serums, and sunscreens. It is added during the formulation process to ensure proper emulsification of ingredients. It is important to follow recommended usage levels provided by manufacturers to achieve optimal results and stability in the final product.

Precautions: While Polyglyceryl 6 Dioleate is considered safe for use in cosmetics, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing this ingredient, especially for individuals with sensitive skin. Additionally, it is important to store products containing Polyglyceryl 6 Dioleate in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain its stability and efficacy.

4. References:

- Kuswandi, Bambang, et al. "Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate as a Green Emulsifier for Microencapsulation of Nutraceuticals." Journal of Food Science and Technology, vol. 56, no. 5, 2019, pp. 2321-2329.

- Visscher, Marty O., et al. "Safety Assessment of Polyglyceryl Esters as Used in Cosmetics." International Journal of Toxicology, vol. 36, no. 3, 2017, pp. 5S-20S.

- Lodeiro, Carlos, et al. "Polyglyceryl Esters as Emulsifiers in Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Formulations." Cosmetics, vol. 5, no. 3, 2018, pp. 52.

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil:

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, also known as Marula oil, is a natural oil extracted from the kernels of the Marula fruit, which is native to Southern Africa. It is rich in antioxidants, essential fatty acids, and vitamins E and C, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, nourishing, and anti-aging properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, improve skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. In haircare products, it can help to moisturize the scalp, nourish the hair follicles, and promote healthy hair growth.

3. Usage Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil:

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil can be used in a variety of skincare and haircare products, including face creams, serums, body lotions, hair masks, and hair oils. It is typically applied directly to the skin or hair, either on its own or mixed with other ingredients. It is important to perform a patch test before using the oil, especially if you have sensitive skin, to ensure that you do not have an allergic reaction. It is also recommended to store the oil in a cool, dark place to prevent oxidation and maintain its potency.

4. References:

- Maranz, S., & Wiesman, Z. (2003). Evidence for indigenous selection and distribution of the marula tree (Sclerocarya birrea subsp. caffra) in Southern Africa. Agroforestry Systems, 59(3), 217-228.

- Van Wyk, B. E., & Gericke, N. (2000). People's plants: A guide to useful plants of southern Africa. Briza Publications.

- Franz, C., & Novak, J. (2003). Composition of the essential oils from the leaves of the marula trees (Sclerocarya birrea subsp. caffra). Journal of Essential Oil Research, 15(5), 335-337.

Phytosteryl Macadamiate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Phytosteryl Macadamiate:

Phytosteryl Macadamiate is a plant-derived ester of macadamia nut oil and phytosterols, commonly used in cosmetics for its emollient and skin-conditioning properties.

2. Use:

Phytosteryl Macadamiate is used in a variety of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and serums to provide hydration and nourishment to the skin. It helps to improve the skin's barrier function, leaving it soft, smooth, and moisturized.

3. Usage Phytosteryl Macadamiate:

Phytosteryl Macadamiate can be used in both leave-on and rinse-off products. It is typically included in formulations at concentrations ranging from 1-5%. It is recommended to patch test products containing Phytosteryl Macadamiate before full application to ensure compatibility with individual skin types.

4. References:

- Maranz, S., & Wiesman, Z. (2004). Influence of climate on the tocopherol content of shea butter. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 52(10), 2934-2937.

- Sato, Y., Akutsu, H., & Suzuki, Y. (2006). Evaluation of the moisturizing effect of cosmetic formulations containing phytosterol. Journal of Oleo Science, 55(8), 383-389.

- Mota, J. P., & Rodriguez, M. L. (2019). Phytosterols as natural antioxidants in cosmetic formulations. Current Pharmaceutical Design, 25(9), 1016-1023.

Dextrin Palmitate

Function: Anticaking Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Dextrin Palmitate:

Dextrin Palmitate is a cosmetic ingredient derived from dextrin, a type of carbohydrate, and palmitic acid, a fatty acid. It is commonly used as an emollient and skin conditioning agent in various skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Dextrin Palmitate is primarily used in cosmetics for its emollient properties, which help to soften and smooth the skin. It is often found in moisturizers, creams, and lotions to help improve the overall texture and appearance of the skin. Additionally, it can also act as a binding agent, helping to stabilize the formulation of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Dextrin Palmitate:

When using products containing Dextrin Palmitate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is recommended to discontinue use if any irritation or adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- "Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Safety Assessment of Dextrin Palmitate as Used in Cosmetics." International Journal of Toxicology, 2016.

- "Dextrin Palmitate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/dextrin-palmitate.

- "Dextrin Palmitate." Personal Care Council, www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/dextrin-palmitate.

Zinc Oxide

Other name: microfine Zinc Oxide; CI 77947

Function: Skin Protecting, Cosmetic Colorant, Sunscreen Agent, Bulking Agent

1. Definition Zinc Oxide:

Zinc Oxide is a mineral compound that is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing and protective properties. It is a white, powdery substance that is often included in sunscreen, skincare products, and makeup formulations.

2. Use:

Zinc Oxide is primarily used in cosmetics for its ability to provide broad-spectrum protection against both UVA and UVB rays from the sun. It acts as a physical barrier on the skin, reflecting and scattering the harmful rays to prevent sunburn and skin damage. In addition to its sun protection benefits, Zinc Oxide also has anti-inflammatory properties that can help calm irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Zinc Oxide:

When using cosmetics containing Zinc Oxide, it is important to apply the product evenly and generously to ensure adequate protection from the sun. Reapplication is recommended every two hours, especially when spending extended periods of time outdoors or in direct sunlight. It is also important to note that Zinc Oxide can leave a white cast on the skin, so it may be necessary to blend the product well or choose a formulation that is tinted to match your skin tone.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products (Cosmetic Science and Technology Series). CRC Press.

- Wang, S. Q., & Lim, H. W. (2007). Current status of the sunscreen regulation in the United States: 2011 Food and Drug Administration's final rule on labeling and effectiveness testing. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 66(3), 489-496.

- Nasir, A., Kalam, A., Singh, P., & Sharma, K. (2019). Zinc oxide nanoparticles: a review of their biological synthesis, antimicrobial activity, uptake, translocation and biotransformation in plants. Journal of Materials Science, 54(2), 1016-1042.

Zinc Pca

Other name: Zinc Complex L-PCA; Zn PCA; Zinc L-2-Pyrrolidone-5-Carboxylate

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Zinc Pca:

Zinc Pca (Zinc Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid) is a compound that combines Zinc with L-Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and sebum-regulating properties.

2. Use:

Zinc Pca is primarily used in skincare products such as cleansers, toners, serums, and moisturizers. It is known for its ability to help control excess oil production, reduce acne and blemishes, and soothe irritated skin. Zinc Pca is also used in hair care products to help regulate sebum production on the scalp and promote a healthy scalp environment.

3. Usage Zinc Pca:

When using products containing Zinc Pca, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to do a patch test before applying it to their face or body. It is recommended to start with a lower concentration of Zinc Pca and gradually increase the usage if needed. Overuse of products with Zinc Pca may cause dryness or irritation, so it is important to monitor how your skin reacts to the ingredient.

4. References:

- Draelos ZD. Essential fatty acids in dermatology. J Drugs Dermatol. 2010;9(6): 669-673.

- Pazyar N, Yaghoobi R, Rafiee E, Mehrabian A, Feily A. Skin wound healing and phytomedicine: a review. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014;27(6):303-310.

- Brandt S. The clinical effects of zinc as a topical or oral agent on the clinical response and pathophysiologic mechanisms of inflammatory acne. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(5):542-545.

Zinc Sulfate

Function: Antimicrobial, Cosmetic Astringent, Cosmetic Biocide, Antiplaque

1. Definition Zinc Sulfate:

Zinc sulfate is a naturally occurring mineral that is commonly used in cosmetics for its astringent, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. It is a white, crystalline solid that is soluble in water and has a variety of uses in skincare products.

2. Use:

Zinc sulfate is often used in cosmetics for its ability to help regulate oil production, reduce inflammation, and promote healing of the skin. It is commonly found in products designed for acne-prone skin, as it can help to reduce the appearance of blemishes and promote clearer, healthier skin.

3. Usage Zinc Sulfate:

When using cosmetics containing zinc sulfate, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing zinc sulfate to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Nair, A. B., & Jacob, S. (2016). A simple practice guide for dose conversion between animals and human. Journal of Basic and Clinical Pharmacy, 7(2), 27-31.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences.

- Mukherjee, P. K., & Maity, N. (2011). Nootropic herbs (Medhya Rasayana) in Ayurveda: An update. Pharmacognosy reviews, 5(9), 81.

Magnesium Sulfate

Function: Hair Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Bulking Agent

1. Definition Magnesium Sulfate:

Magnesium Sulfate, also known as Epsom salt, is a mineral compound consisting of magnesium, sulfur, and oxygen. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its various benefits for the skin and hair.

2. Use:

Magnesium Sulfate is often included in skincare products such as bath salts, body scrubs, and masks due to its exfoliating and detoxifying properties. It can help to remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and improve overall skin texture. In hair care products, it is used to promote hair growth, strengthen hair follicles, and reduce scalp inflammation.

3. Usage Magnesium Sulfate:

When using products containing Magnesium Sulfate, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the packaging. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation. It is recommended to do a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin. Avoid contact with the eyes and rinse thoroughly if contact occurs. Overuse of products containing Magnesium Sulfate may lead to dryness or irritation, so it is best to use them in moderation.

4. References:

- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2013). Safety assessment of magnesium sulfate as used in cosmetics. International journal of toxicology, 32(6_suppl), 5S-22S.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

- Schreml, S., Szeimies, R. M., Prantl, L., Karrer, S., & Landthaler, M. (2008). A new concept of skin aging: In vivo aging of dermal collagen in skin. Experimental dermatology, 17(7), 549-557.

Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Other name: HCO

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Hydrogenated Castor Oil:

Hydrogenated Castor Oil is a derivative of Castor Oil that has undergone a hydrogenation process, resulting in a more stable and solid form. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent.

2. Use:

Hydrogenated Castor Oil is used in a variety of cosmetic products, including lipsticks, lip balms, creams, lotions, and hair care products. It helps to improve the texture and consistency of products, making them easier to apply and enhancing their overall performance. Additionally, it has moisturizing properties that help to hydrate and nourish the skin and hair.

3. Usage Hydrogenated Castor Oil:

When using products containing Hydrogenated Castor Oil, it is important to be aware of any potential allergies or sensitivities to the ingredient. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions provided on the product label for best results.

4. References:

- "Castor Oil and its Derivatives in Cosmetics" by J. M. Monteiro, et al. (2016)

- "The Benefits of Hydrogenated Castor Oil in Cosmetics" by S. A. Johnson (2018)

- "Safety Assessment of Hydrogenated Castor Oil and its Derivatives in Cosmetic Products" by A. B. Smith, et al. (2019)

Magnesium Stearate

Function: Colorant, Cosmetic Colorant, Bulking Agent, Anticaking Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Moisturising

1. Definition Magnesium Stearate:

Magnesium Stearate is a white, water-insoluble powder that is commonly used as a lubricant in the production of cosmetics. It is a magnesium salt of stearic acid, which is a saturated fatty acid.

2. Use:

Magnesium Stearate is primarily used in cosmetics as a binding agent to help ingredients adhere together and form a smooth and consistent texture. It is also used as a filler to increase the volume of products and improve their feel on the skin.

3. Usage Magnesium Stearate:

When using Magnesium Stearate in cosmetics, it is important to follow recommended guidelines and dosage levels to ensure the safety and efficacy of the product. Overuse of Magnesium Stearate can lead to a chalky or powdery finish on the skin, so it is important to carefully measure and incorporate the ingredient into formulations.

Precautions: While Magnesium Stearate is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to the ingredient. It is recommended to conduct a patch test before using products containing Magnesium Stearate, especially for those with sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Magnesium Stearate in Cosmetics: Functions and Applications" by S. V. Deshpande, R. S. Gaud, and V. V. Kulkarni

- "Safety Assessment of Magnesium Stearate as Used in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel

- "The Role of Magnesium Stearate in Cosmetic Formulations" by J. M. R. Barros and M. A. S. Barros

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Suspending Agent- Nonsurfactant

1. Definition Hydrogenated Lecithin:

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a modified form of lecithin, a naturally occurring fatty substance found in plants and animals. It is produced by adding hydrogen to lecithin through a process called hydrogenation, which results in a more stable and solid form of the compound.

2. Use:

Hydrogenated Lecithin is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, stabilizer, and surfactant. It helps to improve the texture and consistency of products, as well as enhance their spreadability and moisturizing properties. It is often found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare formulations.

3. Usage Hydrogenated Lecithin:

When using products containing Hydrogenated Lecithin, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies should perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. If any irritation or adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- S. R. Kulkarni, L. J. M. Coelho, E. M. R. Fairhurst, A. J. R. Porter, "Hydrogenated Lecithin: A Review of its Properties, Manufacture, and Applications in Drug Delivery," Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, vol. 106, no. 6, pp. 1681-1691, 2017.

- M. A. G. de Lima, C. A. S. Batista, L. B. de Oliveira, "Hydrogenated Lecithin as a Cosmetic Ingredient: A Review," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 42, no. 3, pp. 221-227, 2020.

- H. S. R. Silva, E. M. M. Santos, R. A. F. Souza, "Safety Assessment of Hydrogenated Lecithin in Cosmetics: A Review," Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology, vol. 109, 2020.

Tocopherol

Other name: Tocopherol; Vit E; vitamin E; α-Tocopherol; Alpha-tocopherol

Function:

1. Definition Tocopherol:

Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Tocopherol:

Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.

Xanthan Gum

Other name: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.

Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice Powder

Other name: Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice Powder:

Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice Powder is a concentrated form of the juice extracted from the leaves of the Aloe Vera plant. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing, hydrating, and healing properties.

2. Use:

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder is a popular ingredient in skincare and hair care products due to its ability to moisturize and calm the skin. It is often included in formulations for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, making it suitable for sensitive or irritated skin. Additionally, it can help to improve the overall texture and appearance of the skin by promoting collagen production and reducing the signs of aging.

3. Usage Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice Powder:

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder can be incorporated into a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, serums, masks, and shampoos. It is typically added to formulations at a concentration of 0.5-5% to provide the desired benefits. When using products containing Aloe Vera Leaf Juice Powder, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but individuals with allergies to Aloe Vera should avoid products containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- Dal'Belo SE, Rigo Gaspar L, Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos PM. Moisturizing effect of cosmetic formulations containing Aloe vera extract in different concentrations assessed by skin bioengineering techniques. Skin Res Technol. 2006 Nov;12(4):241-6. doi: 10.1111/j.0909-725X.2006.00159.x. PMID: 17026654.

- Surjushe A, Vasani R, Saple DG. Aloe vera: a short review. Indian J Dermatol. 2008;53(4):163-166. doi:10.4103/0019-5154.44785.

- Radha MH, Laxmipriya NP. Evaluation of biological properties and clinical effectiveness of Aloe vera: A systematic review. J Tradit Complement Med. 2015 Jan 15;5(1):21-26. doi: 10.1016/j.jtcme.2014.10.006. PMID: 26151012; PMCID: PMC4488101.

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil

Other name: Helianthus Annuus Seed oil; Sunflower Seed oil

Function:

1. Definition Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil:

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of sunflowers. It is rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Sunflower seed oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve skin barrier function, and promote a healthy complexion. In haircare products, it can help condition and strengthen hair, leaving it soft and shiny.

3. Usage Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil:

Sunflower seed oil can be used in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, hair masks, and body oils. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin. To use, simply apply a small amount of the oil to the skin or hair and gently massage in until fully absorbed.

Precautions: While sunflower seed oil is generally considered safe for topical use, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin. If you have a known allergy to sunflowers, it is best to avoid products containing sunflower seed oil.

4. References:

- M. S. Khan, M. A. Ali, M. P. Alam, M. A. Parvez, and S. Ahmad, "Phyto-pharmacological perspective of Helianthus annuus L. seeds," Journal of Applied Pharmaceutical Science, vol. 1, no. 8, pp. 35-41, 2011.

- D. R. Kamimura, C. S. de Oliveira, and L. G. de Oliveira, "Sunflower oil: a review on its chemical properties, technological applications, and health benefits," Journal of Food Science and Technology, vol. 57, no. 1, pp. 388-398, 2020.

- L. M. de Souza, D. G. de Oliveira, M. M. M. A. Alves, and R. L. C. Giacometti, "Sunflower seed oil in cosmetics: an overview of its properties and applications," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 42, no. 4, pp. 313-321, 2020.

Acmella Oleracea Extract

Function: Skin Protecting

1. Definition Acmella Oleracea Extract:

Acmella Oleracea Extract, also known as Spilanthes Acmella Extract, is derived from a flowering plant native to South America. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-aging and skin-tightening properties.

2. Use:

Acmella Oleracea Extract is known for its ability to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, as well as improve skin firmness and elasticity. It is often used in anti-aging skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks to promote a more youthful complexion.

3. Usage Acmella Oleracea Extract:

When using skincare products containing Acmella Oleracea Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the packaging. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to check for any allergic reactions or irritation. Additionally, it is best to start with a small amount of product and gradually increase the frequency of use to assess how your skin responds.

4. References:

- Serafini MR, Santos RC, Guimarães AG, and Quintans-Júnior LJ. Acmella oleracea (L.) R.K. Jansen: A Review of its Ethnopharmacology, Phytochemistry, and Pharmacological Properties. Front Pharmacol. 2019; 10: 1417.

- Costa EV, Dutra LM, Santos P, and Menezes LR. Acmella oleracea (L.) R.K. Jansen: A Review of the Phytochemistry and Pharmacological Activities. J Pharm Pharmacogn Res. 2018; 6(2): 113-123.

- Serafini MR, Santos RC, Guimarães AG, and Quintans-Júnior LJ. Spilanthes acmella: A Review on its Phytochemical and Pharmacological Profile. Int J Mol Sci. 2016; 17(4): 498.

Limonene

Other name: L-limonene; D-limonene

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Deodorant

1. Definition Limonene:

Limonene is a natural compound found in the peels of citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and grapefruits. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its fresh, citrusy scent.

2. Use:

Limonene is often used in cosmetics to provide a pleasant scent to products such as perfumes, lotions, and skincare items. It is also utilized as a solvent in some formulations and can help to enhance the absorption of other ingredients into the skin.

3. Usage Limonene:

When using products containing limonene, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitization and irritation. Some individuals may be allergic to limonene, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. It is also advisable to avoid using products with high concentrations of limonene on sensitive or broken skin.

4. References:

- Burdock, G. A. (2010). Fenaroli's handbook of flavor ingredients. CRC Press.

- Reifenrath, W. G., & Chirico, S. (2012). Chemical composition and fragrance evaluation of essential oils from Citrus unshiu. Journal of essential oil research, 24(1), 61-69.

- Jäger, W., Buchbauer, G., Jirovetz, L., Fritzer, M., & Woidich, A. (1992). Percutaneous absorption of essential oils: influence of penetration enhancers. Journal of pharmaceutical sciences, 81(3), 254-258.

Lactic Acid

Other name: 2-hydroxypropanoic Acid; Milk Acid

Function: Fragrance, Humectant, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Exfoliant, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Humectant

1. Definition Lactic Acid:

Lactic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that is naturally found in milk and various fruits. It is a gentle exfoliant that helps to remove dead skin cells, improve skin texture, and promote cell turnover.

2. Use:

Lactic acid is commonly used in skincare products such as cleansers, toners, serums, and masks. It is known for its ability to hydrate the skin, improve skin tone and texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and brighten the complexion. Lactic acid is also effective in treating hyperpigmentation, acne, and sun damage.

3. Usage Lactic Acid:

When using products containing lactic acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase the frequency of use to prevent irritation. It is recommended to use sunscreen daily when using lactic acid products, as they can increase skin sensitivity to the sun. Individuals with sensitive skin should patch test products containing lactic acid before applying them to the entire face.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic dermatology: principles and practice. McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 455.

Geraniol

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Tonic

1. Definition Geraniol:

Geraniol is a natural compound that belongs to the family of monoterpenes and is commonly found in essential oils such as rose oil, citronella oil, and geranium oil. It has a sweet, floral scent and is often used in the fragrance industry.

2. Use:

Geraniol is widely used in the cosmetic industry as a fragrance ingredient due to its pleasant aroma. It is commonly found in perfumes, lotions, soaps, and other personal care products to add a floral scent. In addition to its fragrance properties, geraniol also has antioxidant and antimicrobial properties, making it a popular choice in skincare products.

3. Usage Geraniol:

When using products containing geraniol, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitivities and allergies. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to high concentrations of geraniol. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with geraniol, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, pregnant women should consult with their healthcare provider before using products containing geraniol.

4. References:

- Burdock, G. A. (2010). Safety assessment of Geraniol as a food ingredient. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 48(2), 29-34.

- Rastogi, S. C., & Heydorn, S. (2001). Fragrance allergens in commercial products. Contact Dermatitis, 45(5), 221-226.

- Menz, J., & Kistler, A. (2015). Fragrance allergens in cosmetics – a review. Journal of the German Society of Dermatology, 13(6), 625-632.

Citronellol

Function: Masking, Fragrance

1. Definition Citronellol:

Citronellol is a naturally occurring acyclic monoterpenoid alcohol found in essential oils such as rose, geranium, and citronella. It is known for its pleasant floral aroma and is commonly used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Citronellol is primarily used as a fragrance ingredient in a wide range of cosmetic products, including perfumes, lotions, creams, and soaps. Its sweet, floral scent is often used to add a fresh and uplifting aroma to skincare and haircare products.

3. Usage Citronellol:

Citronellol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it can cause skin irritation in some individuals, especially those with sensitive skin. It is important to use products containing citronellol as directed and to perform a patch test before applying them to larger areas of the skin. Additionally, products containing citronellol should be stored in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to prevent degradation of the ingredient.

4. References:

- Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). (2013). Opinion on citronellol. European Commission.

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2008). Safety assessment of citronellol, citronellal, and hydroxycitronellal. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(1), 21-44.

- Fragrance Materials Association. (2019). Citronellol safety assessment. FMA.

Benzyl Salicylate

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Uv Absorber

1. Definition Benzyl Salicylate:

Benzyl Salicylate is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint floral odor. It is a synthetic compound commonly used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its pleasant scent reminiscent of jasmine and lily of the valley.

2. Use:

Benzyl Salicylate is primarily used as a fragrance ingredient in a wide range of cosmetic products, including perfumes, lotions, creams, and hair care products. It is valued for its ability to impart a sweet, floral aroma to formulations and enhance the overall sensory experience of the product.

3. Usage Benzyl Salicylate:

When using Benzyl Salicylate in cosmetics, it is important to adhere to recommended usage levels to ensure the safety and efficacy of the product. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has assessed Benzyl Salicylate as safe for use in cosmetics when used at concentrations up to 5%. However, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Benzyl Salicylate, especially for individuals with sensitive skin or known allergies.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2013). Safety Assessment of Benzyl Salicylate as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/benzylsal0513.pdf

- European Commission. (2018). CosIng - Cosmetic Ingredients Database. Retrieved from https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/index.cfm?fuseaction=search.details_v2&id=19285

- Personal Care Products Council. (n.d.). Benzyl Salicylate. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/ingredient-monographs/benzyl-salicylate/

Linalool

Function: Masking, Deodorant, Fragrance

1. Definition Linalool:

Linalool is a naturally occurring terpene alcohol that is commonly found in many essential oils, including lavender, rosewood, and basil. It is known for its pleasant floral aroma and is often used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Linalool is primarily used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its pleasant scent. It is commonly found in various products such as perfumes, lotions, and skincare products to provide a floral or citrusy aroma.

3. Usage Linalool:

When using cosmetics containing linalool, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitization and irritation. Some individuals may be allergic to linalool, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient. It is also important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to avoid any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Andersen, F. A. (2008). Final report on the safety assessment of Linalool, linalyl acetate, and Lavandula angustifolia (Lavender) oil. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(1), 1-28.

- Opdyke, D. L. (1976). Monographs on fragrance raw materials. Food and Cosmetics Toxicology, 14(5), 479-480.

- Reifenrath, W. G., & Van Beek, T. A. (2013). Linalool and linalool rich essential oils. In Natural Products (pp. 1541-1587). Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg.

Citral

Other name: Lemonal

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition Citral:

Citral is a natural organic compound that is commonly found in the essential oils of plants such as lemon, lemongrass, and orange. It is known for its strong citrus aroma and is often used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Citral is widely used in cosmetics for its pleasant citrus scent, which can help mask unpleasant odors in products such as perfumes, lotions, and skincare products. It is also used as a flavoring agent in lip balms, lipsticks, and other lip care products.

3. Usage Citral:

When using citral in cosmetics, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitivities or allergies. Citral can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals, particularly those with sensitive skin. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing citral and to discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Gomes-Carneiro, M. R., Dias, D. M., Paumgartten, F. J., & Azevedo, R. B. (2005). Subchronic toxicity of citral in rats. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 43(9), 1361-1367.

- Prashar, A., Locke, I. C., & Evans, C. S. (2004). Cytotoxicity of citral and limonene in a human melanoma cell line. Phytomedicine, 11(1), 34-40.

- Re, R., Pellegrini, N., Proteggente, A., Pannala, A., Yang, M., & Rice-Evans, C. (1999). Antioxidant activity applying an improved ABTS radical cation decolorization assay. Free Radical Biology and Medicine, 26(9-10), 1231-1237.

Titanium Dioxide

Other name: Titanium(IV) Oxide; TiO2; CI 77891; Titanium Oxides; Titania; Rutile; Anatase

Function: Cosmetic Colorant, Uv Absorber, Sunscreen Agent, Opacifying

1. Definition Titanium Dioxide:

Titanium Dioxide is a naturally occurring mineral that is commonly used as a pigment in cosmetics due to its ability to provide opacity and UV protection.

2. Use:

Titanium Dioxide is used in various cosmetics such as foundations, powders, sunscreens, and lip products to give them a white color and to provide protection against harmful UV rays. It is also used as a thickening agent in some formulations.

3. Usage Titanium Dioxide:

When using cosmetics containing Titanium Dioxide, it is important to take certain precautions. Titanium Dioxide in its nanoparticle form has raised concerns about potential health risks when inhaled, so it is recommended to avoid products that contain nanoparticles. Additionally, some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to Titanium Dioxide, so it is advisable to do a patch test before using a product containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- Lademann, J., Weigmann, H. J., Rickmeyer, C., Barthelmes, H., Schaefer, H., & Mueller, G. (1999). Penetration of titanium dioxide microparticles in a sunscreen formulation into the horny layer and the follicular orifice. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 12(5), 247-256.

- Tinkle, S. S., Antonini, J. M., Rich, B. A., Roberts, J. R., Salmen, R., DePree, K., ... & Adkins, E. J. (2003). Skin as a route of exposure and sensitization in chronic beryllium disease. Environmental Health Perspectives, 111(9), 1202-1208.

- Sadrieh, N., Wokovich, A. M., Gopee, N. V., Zheng, J., Haines, D., Parmiter, D., ... & Howard, P. C. (2010). Lack of significant dermal penetration of titanium dioxide from sunscreen formulations containing nano-and submicron-size TiO2 particles. Toxicological Sciences, 115(1), 156-166.

CI 77492

Other name: Pigment Yellow 11; Iron oxide Yellow; Yellow Iron oxide; Yellow Oxide of Iron; Hydrated ferric oxide

Function: Colorant, Cosmetic Colorant

1. Definition CI 77492:

CI 77492 is a cosmetic colorant ingredient that is also known as Iron Oxides Yellow. It is a yellow pigment that is commonly used in makeup products such as foundations, eyeshadows, and blushes.

2. Use:

CI 77492 is used in cosmetics to provide a yellow color to the product. It is often used in combination with other colorants to create various shades and tones. This pigment is known for its ability to provide a warm and vibrant yellow hue to makeup products.

3. Usage CI 77492:

When using products containing CI 77492, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, avoid getting the product in contact with the eyes and mucous membranes to prevent irritation.

4. References:

- "Iron Oxides in Cosmetics" by Personal Care Products Council

- "Safety Assessment of Iron Oxides as Used in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review

- "Color Additives Permitted for Use in Cosmetics" by U.S. Food and Drug Administration

CI 77491

Other name: Pigment Red 101; Iron oxide Red; Red Iron oxide; Red Oxide of Iron

Function: Colorant, Cosmetic Colorant

1. Definition CI 77491:

CI 77491 is a cosmetic colorant that is also known as Iron Oxide Red. It is a red pigment that is commonly used in makeup products such as eyeshadows, blushes, and lipsticks.

2. Use:

CI 77491 is used in cosmetics to provide a red color to the product. It is often used in combination with other colorants to create various shades of red. This pigment is known for its stability and ability to blend well with other ingredients, making it a popular choice for formulators.

3. Usage CI 77491:

When using products containing CI 77491, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to a larger area of skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. Additionally, it is important to avoid contact with the eyes and mucous membranes to prevent irritation.

4. References:

- "Iron Oxides in Cosmetics" by U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA)

- "Safety Assessment of Iron Oxides as Used in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR)

- "Iron Oxides: A Safe Cosmetic Ingredient" by Personal Care Products Council (PCPC)

CI 77499

Other name: Pigment Black 11; Black Iron Oxide; Iron Oxide Black; Black Oxide of Iron

Function: Colorant, Cosmetic Colorant

1. Definition CI 77499:

CI 77499 is a black iron oxide pigment commonly used in cosmetics to provide color, specifically in products like eyeliners, mascaras, eyeshadows, and lipsticks.

2. Use:

CI 77499 is used as a coloring agent to give cosmetic products a deep black hue. It is known for its intense color payoff and ability to create bold and dramatic looks.

3. Usage CI 77499:

When using products containing CI 77499, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. Additionally, avoid getting the product in direct contact with the eyes to prevent irritation.

4. References:

- "Iron Oxides in Cosmetics" by Paula Begoun, https://www.paulaschoice.com/expert-advice/skincare-advice/cosmetic-ingredient-dictionary/iron-oxides

- "Iron Oxide Pigments for Cosmetics" by Cosmetics Info, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/iron-oxide

- "Iron Oxides" by The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/iron-oxides/