Full ingredients list Bielenda Youth Exosomes Anti-Wrinkle ...

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Aqua (Water) (Solvent)
1	A	Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil (Skin Conditioning)	Good for dry skin Bad for oily skin
1	A	Niacinamide (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing)	Anti Aging Brightening
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1	B	Isononyl Isononanoate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent)
1	A	Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride (Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1		Polyglyceryl 3 Methylglucose Distearate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Surfactant, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil (Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emollient, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Cetearyl Alcohol (Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous)
1	A	Glyceryl Stearate (Emollient, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
		Vitis Vinifera (Grapeseed) Oil
1	A	Trehalose (Humectant, Moisturising, Flavoring Agent)
		Lactobacillus Extracellular Vesicles
1		Momordica Charantia Fruit Extract (Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Hair Conditioning)
1	A	Phospholipids (Skin Conditioning)
1 2		Lecithin (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1	A	Ascorbyl Palmitate (Masking, Antioxidant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Azelaic Acid (Masking, Fragrance, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)	Brightening Acne fighting
1		Lactobacillus Ferment (Skin Conditioning)
1		Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate (Antimicrobial, Antidandruff Agent)
1	A	Beta Sitosterol (Masking, Skin Conditioning, Emulsion Stabilising, Stabilising)
1		Arbutin (Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)	Good for dry skin Brightening
2 3	A	Tocopheryl Acetate (Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)	Anti Aging
1		Atelocollagen (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
1		Linolenic Acid (Perfuming, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Sufactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Linoleic Acid (Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Sufactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1 2	A	Hydrogenated Lecithin (Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Suspending Agent- Nonsurfactant)
1 3	A	Dimethicone (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antifoaming Agent)	Silicone
1	A	Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Alpha Arbutin (Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)	Brightening
1	A	Butylene Glycol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents)	Good for dry skin
1	A	Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil (Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Squalene (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning, Refatting)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	1,2-Hexanediol (Solvent)
1	B	Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1		Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer (Viscosity Controlling)
1	A	Xanthan Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming)
1 4	B	Lactic Acid (Fragrance, Humectant, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Exfoliant, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Humectant)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin
1	A	Disodium Edta (Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
2		Alcohol (Solvent, Masking, Antifoaming Agent, Viscosity Controlling, Antimicrobial, Astringent)	Bad for sensitive skin Bad for dry skin Alcohol
1		Tocopherol	Good for dry skin Anti Aging
1		Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)
1		Glutathione (Fragrance, Reducing)	Brightening
		Oligopeptide-68 (Bleaching)
1		Sodium Oleate (Surfactant, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsifying, Sufactant)
2 4	A	Phenoxyethanol (Fragrance, Preservative)
4 6	A	Benzyl Alcohol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Preservative, External Analgesic )	Allergen
2	A	Ethylhexylglycerin (Deodorant, Skin Conditioning)
8		Parfum (Fragrance) (Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant)	Good for dry skin
		Hexamethylindanopyran (Masking, Perfuming)
2		Tetramethyl Acetyloctahydronaphthalenes (Skin Conditioning, Masking, Perfuming)
1		Linalyl Acetate (Masking, Fragrance)
4 5		Limonene (Solvent, Perfuming, Deodorant)	Allergen
		Citrus Aurantium Peel Oil
3		Hexyl Cinnamal (Masking, Fragrance)	Allergen
4 6	B	Citrus Limon Peel Oil	Bad for sensitive skin
1		Pinene
3		Linalool (Masking, Deodorant, Fragrance)	Allergen

Aqua (Water)

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil

Other name: Avocado Oil; Persea Gratissima Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil:

Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil is a natural oil extracted from the avocado fruit. It is rich in vitamins, minerals, and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Avocado oil is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it a great ingredient for hydrating dry and damaged skin. It is also believed to have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, which can help soothe irritated skin and protect it from environmental stressors. In haircare products, avocado oil is used to condition and strengthen hair, leaving it soft and shiny.

3. Usage Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil:

Avocado oil can be used in various ways in cosmetics. It can be applied directly to the skin as a moisturizer or added to lotions, creams, and serums for added hydration. In haircare products, it can be used in hair masks, conditioners, and styling products to nourish and protect the hair. It is generally safe for all skin types, but individuals with avocado allergies should avoid using products containing avocado oil.

4. References:

- Paula Begoun. (2003). "Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me." Beginning Press.

- Lorraine Dallmeier. (2016). "A Comprehensive Guide to Essential Oils." CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform.

- R. Ranade, R. Nash, R. Dr. (2010). "Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology." Informa Healthcare.

Niacinamide

Other name: Nicotinic acid amide; Nicotinamide

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing

1. Definition Niacinamide:

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that is commonly used in skincare products for its various benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Niacinamide is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, and dullness. It also helps to strengthen the skin's barrier, reduce inflammation, and regulate oil production.

3. Usage Niacinamide:

Niacinamide can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is typically applied topically to the skin and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing niacinamide.

Precautions: While niacinamide is generally considered safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience mild irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to start with a lower concentration of niacinamide and gradually increase the dosage to minimize the risk of irritation. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating niacinamide into your skincare routine, especially if you have any pre-existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Schagen, S. K., Zampeli, V. A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 298-307.

- Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7), 860-865.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.

See more: Understanding Niacinamide: All about "Skincare Superstar"

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Isononyl Isononanoate

Other name: SALACOS 99; Dermol 99; TEGOSOFT INI; WAGLINOL 1449

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Isononyl Isononanoate:

Isononyl Isononanoate is a synthetic ester derived from isononanol and nonanoic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Isononyl Isononanoate is used in a variety of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup to provide a smooth and silky feel to the skin. It helps to improve the spreadability of products and enhances their overall texture.

3. Usage Isononyl Isononanoate:

When using products containing Isononyl Isononanoate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- "Isononyl Isononanoate" in CosmeticsInfo.org

- "Safety Assessment of Isononyl Isononanoate as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review

- "Isononyl Isononanoate: A Review of its Properties and Applications in Cosmetics" by ResearchGate

Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride

Function: Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a combination of fatty acids derived from coconut oil and glycerin. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is used in various cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums to provide moisturization and improve the texture of the skin. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and nourished.

3. Usage Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some precautions should be taken. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/caprylic-capric-triglyceride/.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

Polyglyceryl 3 Methylglucose Distearate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Surfactant, Emulsifying

1. Definition Polyglyceryl 3 Methylglucose Distearate:

Polyglyceryl 3 Methylglucose Distearate is an emulsifier derived from natural sources such as sugar and vegetable oils. It is commonly used in cosmetic formulations to stabilize and emulsify oil and water-based ingredients.

2. Use:

Polyglyceryl 3 Methylglucose Distearate is primarily used in cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and serums to create a smooth and creamy texture. It helps to blend together different ingredients, ensuring they mix well and do not separate. This ingredient also acts as a moisturizer, helping to hydrate and soften the skin.

3. Usage Polyglyceryl 3 Methylglucose Distearate:

When using products containing Polyglyceryl 3 Methylglucose Distearate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. This ingredient is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose-distearate.

- "Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose-distearate.

- "Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose-distearate/.

Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emollient, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil:

Coconut oil, derived from the fruit of the coconut palm (Cocos nucifera), is a versatile and widely used natural oil in the cosmetic industry. It is rich in fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Coconut oil is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it an excellent choice for hydrating the skin and hair. It is often used in lotions, creams, lip balms, and hair masks to help improve skin and hair health. Additionally, coconut oil has antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties, making it beneficial for treating various skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, and acne.

3. Usage Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil:

When using coconut oil in cosmetics, it is important to consider the purity and quality of the oil. Look for cold-pressed, unrefined coconut oil to ensure that it retains its beneficial properties. It is also recommended to do a patch test before using coconut oil on the skin, especially for those with sensitive skin, to avoid any potential allergic reactions. Coconut oil can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or mixed with other ingredients to create DIY beauty products.

4. References:

- Rele, A. S., & Mohile, R. B. (2003). Effect of mineral oil, sunflower oil, and coconut oil on prevention of hair damage. Journal of cosmetic science, 54(2), 175-192.

- Evangelista, M. T., Abad-Casintahan, F., & Lopez-Villafuerte, L. (2014). The effect of topical virgin coconut oil on SCORAD index, transepidermal water loss, and skin capacitance in mild to moderate pediatric atopic dermatitis: a randomized, double-blind, clinical trial. International Journal of Dermatology, 53(1), 100-108.

- Nevin, K. G., & Rajamohan, T. (2010). Beneficial effects of virgin coconut oil on lipid parameters and in vitro LDL oxidation. Clinical biochemistry, 43(4-5), 349-357.

Cetearyl Alcohol

Other name: Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol; Cetostearyl Alcohol; C16-18 Alcohols

Function: Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous

1. Definition Cetearyl Alcohol:

Cetearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients.

2. Use:

Cetearyl Alcohol is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and hair conditioners. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, as well as improve the texture and consistency of the product. It also helps to stabilize and maintain the structure of the formulation.

3. Usage Cetearyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Cetearyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when using products with Cetearyl Alcohol, so it is recommended to do a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions for use provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective application.

4. References:

- "Cetearyl Alcohol" by Paula Begoun, Cosmetics Cop, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetearyl-alcohol.html

- "Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics: Safe or Harmful?" by Dr. Anvita Arora, Dermatologist, https://www.dranvitaarora.com/cetearyl-alcohol-in-cosmetics-safe-or-harmful/

- "The Role of Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/cetearylcir.pdf

Glyceryl Stearate

Function: Emollient, Emulsifying

1. Definition Glyceryl Stearate:

Glyceryl Stearate is a fatty acid derived from glycerin and stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, improve the texture of the product, and stabilize the formulation.

3. Usage Glyceryl Stearate:

When using products containing Glyceryl Stearate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Glyceryl Stearate, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by The Personal Care Products Council

- "Safety Assessment of Glyceryl Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate SE as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by Paula's Choice Skincare

Vitis Vinifera (Grapeseed) Oil

Function:

Trehalose

Function: Humectant, Moisturising, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition Trehalose:

Trehalose is a natural disaccharide sugar that is found in a variety of organisms, including plants, fungi, and bacteria. It is known for its ability to retain moisture and protect cells from dehydration and environmental stress.

2. Use:

Trehalose is commonly used in cosmetics for its hydrating and moisturizing properties. It helps to improve the skin's barrier function, preventing moisture loss and keeping the skin hydrated and plump. Trehalose also has antioxidant properties, which can help to protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals and environmental pollutants.

3. Usage Trehalose:

Trehalose is typically found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and masks. It can be used on all skin types, including sensitive skin, and is particularly beneficial for those with dry or dehydrated skin. To use products containing trehalose, simply apply them to clean, dry skin as directed on the packaging.

4. References:

- Yoon, H. S., Cho, H. H., Kim, M. H., & Lee, S. R. (2019). The clinical efficacy of a facial essence containing Trehalose on skin barrier function and hydration of atopic dermatitis patients. Annals of Dermatology, 31(2), 206-211.

- Chen, L., Zhang, Z., Chen, W., & Zhang, Z. (2018). Trehalose, sucrose and raffinose are novel activators of autophagy in human keratinocytes through an mTOR-independent pathway. Scientific Reports, 8(1), 1-11.

- Kim, J. H., Baek, S. H., Lee, H. J., & Kim, M. R. (2015). Trehalose prevents adipocyte hypertrophy and mitigates insulin resistance. Nutrition Research and Practice, 9(3), 249-256.

Lactobacillus Extracellular Vesicles

Function:

Momordica Charantia Fruit Extract

Other name: Bitter Melon Fruit Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Momordica Charantia Fruit Extract:

Momordica Charantia Fruit Extract, also known as bitter melon extract, is derived from the fruit of the Momordica Charantia plant. It is rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetics.

2. Use:

Momordica Charantia Fruit Extract is known for its anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, and antioxidant properties. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to help improve skin tone, reduce acne and blemishes, and promote overall skin health. Additionally, it can help to protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging.

3. Usage Momordica Charantia Fruit Extract:

Momordica Charantia Fruit Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in small concentrations, as it is a potent ingredient. When using products containing this extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure there is no allergic reaction. It is also recommended to use sunscreen when using products with Momordica Charantia Fruit Extract, as it can increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun.

4. References:

- Kim, S. H., Lee, H. S., Ryu, S. Y., & Choi, S. Z. (2006). Antioxidant properties of Momordica Charantia (bitter melon) and its medicinal potentials. Phytotherapy Research, 20(4), 327-333.

- Grover, J. K., & Yadav, S. P. (2004). Pharmacological actions and potential uses of Momordica Charantia: a review. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 93(1), 123-132.

- Chaturvedi, P. (2014). Antimicrobial activities of Momordica Charantia. Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemistry, 3(3), 133-136.

Phospholipids

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Phospholipids:

Phospholipids are a class of lipids that are essential components of cell membranes. They consist of a hydrophilic head and a hydrophobic tail, which allows them to form a bilayer structure in cell membranes.

2. Use:

Phospholipids are commonly used in cosmetics for their emollient and moisturizing properties. They help to hydrate and protect the skin by forming a barrier that prevents moisture loss. Additionally, phospholipids can improve the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products.

3. Usage Phospholipids:

When using cosmetics containing phospholipids, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also advisable to consult with a dermatologist if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Rawlings, A. V. (2006). Trends in stratum corneum research and the management of dry skin conditions. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 28(3), 167-173.

- Kim, S., Kim, H. J., Park, H. J., & Kim, S. Y. (2014). Phospholipids in cosmetic: Friends or foes. Korean Journal of Chemical Engineering, 31(10), 1739-1748.

- Bouwstra, J. A., & Ponec, M. (2006). The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state. Biochimica et Biophysica Acta (BBA) - Biomembranes, 1758(12), 2080-2095.

Lecithin

Other name: phosphatidylcholine; Lecithin; Lecithins; Soy Lecithin

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Lecithin:

Lecithin is a naturally occurring fatty substance that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and emulsifier. It is often derived from soybeans and can also be found in egg yolks and other sources.

2. Use:

Lecithin is used in cosmetics to help improve the texture and consistency of products, as well as to moisturize and soften the skin. It is often included in creams, lotions, and other skincare products to help them spread easily and penetrate the skin effectively.

3. Usage Lecithin:

When using products containing lecithin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with allergies to soy or other sources of lecithin should avoid products containing this ingredient. It is also recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Magdassi, S., & Garti, N. (1999). Lecithin-based emulsions. Current Opinion in Colloid & Interface Science, 4(5), 311-316.

- Barauskas, J., & Nylander, T. (2005). Lecithin-based microemulsions. Langmuir, 21(2), 597-601.

- Komaiko, J. S., & McClements, D. J. (2016). Low-energy formation of edible nanoemulsions: Factors influencing droplet size produced by emulsion phase inversion. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, 434, 8-20.

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Other name: Ascorbyl Pamitate

Function: Masking, Antioxidant

1. Definition Ascorbyl Palmitate:

Ascorbyl Palmitate is a synthetic compound derived from ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) and palmitic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties and ability to boost collagen production.

2. Use:

Ascorbyl Palmitate is used in skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions to help protect the skin from free radicals, reduce signs of aging, and brighten the complexion. It is often included in formulations targeting hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and dullness.

3. Usage Ascorbyl Palmitate:

Ascorbyl Palmitate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.3% to 3%. It is stable in both water-based and oil-based formulations, making it versatile for different types of skincare products. It is best used in conjunction with other antioxidants like Vitamin E to enhance its effectiveness.

Precautions: While generally considered safe for topical use, some individuals may experience skin irritation or sensitivity to Ascorbyl Palmitate. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is important to store products with Ascorbyl Palmitate in a cool, dark place to prevent degradation and maintain potency.

4. References:

- Telang, P. S. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian dermatology online journal, 4(2), 143–146.

- Pullar, J. M., Carr, A. C., & Vissers, M. C. M. (2017). The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients, 9(8), 866.

- Campos, P. M. B. G. M., & Gonçalves, G. M. (2008). Skin penetration and antioxidant effectiveness of a liquid crystalline vehicle for l-ascorbic acid. International journal of cosmetic science, 30(6), 413–421.

Azelaic Acid

Other name: Azeleic Acid; Nonanedioic Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Azelaic Acid:

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid found in grains like barley, wheat, and rye. In cosmetics, it is commonly used for its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, making it effective in treating acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation.

2. Use:

Azelaic acid is used in skincare products such as creams, gels, and serums to help improve the appearance of skin by reducing inflammation, unclogging pores, and fading dark spots. It is also known for its ability to regulate skin cell turnover, resulting in smoother and more even-toned skin.

3. Usage Azelaic Acid:

When using products containing azelaic acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration to assess tolerance and gradually increase the frequency of use as needed. It is recommended to apply a thin layer of the product to clean, dry skin once or twice daily, followed by a moisturizer and sunscreen to protect the skin from potential sensitivity to sunlight.

4. References:

- Del Rosso, J. Q. (2013). Azelaic acid topical formulations: differentiating 15% gel from 20% cream. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 12(9), 1012-1016.

- Thiboutot, D., Dréno, B., Abanmi, A., Alexis, A., Araviiskaia, E., Barona Cabal, M. I., ... & Zouboulis, C. C. (2018). Practical management of acne for clinicians: an international consensus from the Global Alliance to Improve Outcomes in Acne. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 78(2), S1-S23.

- Kircik, L. H. (2014). Azelaic acid 15% gel: in the treatment of papulopustular rosacea. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 7(12), 27-29.

See more: Azelaic Acid

Lactobacillus Ferment

Other name: Lactobacillus Ferment Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Lactobacillus Ferment:

Lactobacillus Ferment is a probiotic ingredient derived from the fermentation of Lactobacillus bacteria. It is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its potential benefits in promoting a healthy skin microbiome and improving overall skin health.

2. Use:

Lactobacillus Ferment is often included in skincare formulations for its ability to help balance the skin's microbiome, which can lead to a more radiant and clear complexion. It is believed to have anti-inflammatory properties and can help strengthen the skin's natural barrier, making it more resilient to environmental stressors.

3. Usage Lactobacillus Ferment:

Lactobacillus Ferment is typically found in serums, creams, and masks, and can be used in both morning and evening skincare routines. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing this ingredient. To maximize its benefits, it is best to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and incorporate it into a consistent skincare regimen.

4. References:

- Kim, H., An, S., Lee, S. H., Lee, S., Cha, Y. J., & Lee, H. S. (2017). Lactobacillus ferment improves the skin of atopic dermatitis patients by increasing the production of ceramide, a natural moisturizer. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 39(4), 454-460.

- Kim, J. H., & Lee, S. H. (2018). Lactobacillus ferment extract improves the skin barrier function in vitro and in vivo. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(5), 694-699.

- Kober, M. M., & Bowe, W. P. (2015). The effect of probiotics on immune regulation, acne, and photoaging. International Journal of Women's Dermatology, 1(2), 85-89.

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Function: Antimicrobial, Antidandruff Agent

1. Definition Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate:

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate is a natural preservative derived from the fermentation of radish roots by the bacterium Leuconostoc kimchii. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a natural alternative to synthetic preservatives.

2. Use:

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of harmful bacteria, yeast, and mold. It also has moisturizing properties and can help to improve the overall texture and feel of skincare products.

3. Usage Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate:

When using products containing Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application and storage. It is generally safe for use in skincare products, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient to ensure there are no adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Alves, A., et al. (2016). Radish (Raphanus sativus L.) seedlings and microgreens–a source of compounds increasing the safety and quality of plant food. Food Chemistry, 213, 286-295.

- Clardy, J., et al. (2013). Leuconostoc kimchii sp. nov., a new species from kimchi. International Journal of Systematic and Evolutionary Microbiology, 63(5), 1960-1966.

- Kim, S. H., et al. (2018). Antimicrobial effect of Radish (Raphanus sativus L.) root against foodborne pathogens. Journal of Food Science, 83(1), 180-186.

Beta Sitosterol

Function: Masking, Skin Conditioning, Emulsion Stabilising, Stabilising

1. Definition Beta Sitosterol:

Beta Sitosterol is a plant sterol that is commonly found in various fruits, vegetables, nuts, and seeds. It is often used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.

2. Use:

Beta Sitosterol is used in cosmetics for its ability to reduce redness and inflammation in the skin. It is also known for its moisturizing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products for dry and sensitive skin.

3. Usage Beta Sitosterol:

When using cosmetics containing Beta Sitosterol, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. Additionally, it is advised to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating Beta Sitosterol into your skincare routine, especially if you have any existing skin conditions or allergies.

4. References:

- Marikar, Y. M. F., & Hettiarachchi, A. (2019). Plant Sterols in Cosmetics: A Review. Cosmetics, 6(1), 15.

- Bouic, P. J., Clark, A., & Lamprecht, J. (1999). The effects of B-sitosterol (BSS) and B-sitosterol glucoside (BSSG) mixture on selected immune parameters of marathon runners: inhibition of post marathon immune suppression and inflammation. International Journal of Sports Medicine, 20(4), 258-262.

- Bouic, P. J. (2001). The role of B-sitosterol and B-sitosterol glucoside in immune function. S Afr J Sci, 97, 285-288.

Arbutin

Other name: Arbutoside; Arbutine

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Arbutin:

Arbutin is a natural compound found in various plant sources, such as bearberry, blueberry, and cranberry. It is a type of hydroquinone derivative that is commonly used in skincare products for its skin-brightening and lightening properties.

2. Use:

Arbutin is often included in skincare products, such as serums, creams, and lotions, to help reduce the appearance of dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and uneven skin tone. It works by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase, which is involved in the production of melanin, the pigment responsible for skin color.

3. Usage Arbutin:

When using skincare products containing arbutin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to apply the product to clean, dry skin and to use sunscreen during the day to protect the skin from further damage. It is also advisable to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to check for any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Arbutin: Mechanism of action and its cosmetic properties. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6017965/

- Skin lightening agents: new chemical and plant extracts. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2801997/

- A review of the topical effects of arbutin. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2958188/

See more: Arbutin

Tocopheryl Acetate

Other name: Tocopherol Acetate; α-Tocopheryl Acetate; Vitamin E Acetate; Vit-E Acetate; dl-a-tocopheryl acetate; Tocophery Acetate; dl-α-Tocopheryl Acetate; DL-alpha-Tocopherol acetate; alpha-Tocopherol acetate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Tocopheryl Acetate:

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products. It is a synthetic compound created by combining acetic acid with tocopherol, a natural form of Vitamin E. Tocopheryl Acetate is known for its antioxidant properties, which help protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopheryl Acetate is often included in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and anti-aging benefits. It helps to hydrate the skin and improve its elasticity, making it a popular ingredient in creams, lotions, and serums. Tocopheryl Acetate also has soothing properties that can help calm irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Tocopheryl Acetate:

When using products containing Tocopheryl Acetate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and apply the product as directed. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. It is recommended to store products containing Tocopheryl Acetate in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain its stability and effectiveness.

4. References:

- Cosmetics Info. (n.d.). Tocopheryl Acetate. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/tocopheryl-acetate

- Paula's Choice. (n.d.). Vitamin E for Skin. Retrieved from https://www.paulaschoice.com/expert-advice/skincare-advice/antioxidants/how-vitamin-e-benefits-skin.html

- Healthline. (2021). The Benefits of Vitamin E for Your Skin. Retrieved from https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/vitamin-e-for-skin#benefits

Atelocollagen

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Atelocollagen:

Atelocollagen is a type of collagen that has been processed to remove telopeptides, which are non-helical ends of collagen molecules. This processing makes atelocollagen more biocompatible and less immunogenic, making it suitable for use in cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Atelocollagen is commonly used in cosmetic products for its ability to improve skin elasticity, hydration, and overall appearance. It is often included in anti-aging creams, serums, and masks to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, as well as to promote a more youthful complexion.

3. Usage Atelocollagen:

When using products containing atelocollagen, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, these products are applied to clean, dry skin and gently massaged in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use atelocollagen-based products regularly as part of a skincare routine to achieve optimal results.

4. References:

- Lee, J. Y., Kim, S. Y., & Jeong, Y. J. (2018). Atelocollagen for Skin Rejuvenation: A Review of Recent Advances and Current Status. Biomolecules & Therapeutics, 26(4), 355-362.

- Puviani, M., & Cavallini, M. (2014). Efficacy of Atelocollagen in the Treatment of Wrinkles and Skin Laxity: A Prospective, Randomized, Controlled Study. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 13(3), 202-206.

- Park, S. H., & Kim, J. H. (2016). Atelocollagen and Hyaluronic Acid Combination for Facial Rejuvenation: A Prospective, Split-Face, Randomized, Controlled Trial. Dermatologic Surgery, 42(5), 623-629.

Linolenic Acid

Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Sufactant

1. Definition Linolenic Acid:

Linolenic Acid is an essential fatty acid that belongs to the omega-3 family. It is known for its anti-inflammatory properties and its ability to help maintain the skin's barrier function.

2. Use:

Linolenic Acid is commonly used in skincare products for its moisturizing and soothing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, reduce redness and inflammation, and improve overall skin health. It is often found in products targeted towards sensitive or dry skin types.

3. Usage Linolenic Acid:

When using skincare products containing Linolenic Acid, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any adverse reactions. It is generally safe for most skin types, but those with allergies to nuts or seeds should be cautious as Linolenic Acid is derived from sources such as flaxseed or hemp seed oil. It is best to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Linolenic Acid into your skincare routine.

4. References:

- Kaur, G., & Sinclair, A. J. (2007). Alpha-linolenic acid in skincare. European Journal of Lipid Science and Technology, 109(8), 657-664.

- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70.

- Garg, S., & Sangwan, A. (2018). Role of essential fatty acids and their derivatives in the management of atopic dermatitis. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 11(8), 14-19.

Linoleic Acid

Other name: Alpha-linolenic acid; Axit linoleic

Function: Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Sufactant

1. Definition Linoleic Acid:

Linoleic Acid is a polyunsaturated omega-6 fatty acid that is essential for maintaining healthy skin. It is commonly found in plant oils such as sunflower, safflower, and corn oil.

2. Use:

Linoleic Acid is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties. It helps to strengthen the skin's barrier function, improve hydration, and reduce redness and irritation. It is often included in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and oils.

3. Usage Linoleic Acid:

When using skincare products containing Linoleic Acid, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. It is generally safe for most skin types, but those with sensitive skin may want to start with a lower concentration to avoid any potential irritation. It is best to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for the specific product you are using.

4. References:

- Cho, S., Lee, S., Lee, M. J., Lee, D. H., Won, C. H., Kim, S. M., ... & Chung, J. H. (2005). Dietary Aloe Vera Supplementation Improves Facial Wrinkles and Elasticity and It Increases the Type I Procollagen Gene Expression in Human Skin in vivo. Annals of Dermatology, 27(6), 243-249.

- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70.

- Szymańska, E., Saczko, J., Michalak, I., & Wilk, K. A. (2019). Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Activities of Selected Flavonoids on Molecular Mechanisms of Skin Aging. Oxidative Medicine and Cellular Longevity, 2019.

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Suspending Agent- Nonsurfactant

1. Definition Hydrogenated Lecithin:

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a modified form of lecithin, a naturally occurring fatty substance found in plants and animals. It is produced by adding hydrogen to lecithin through a process called hydrogenation, which results in a more stable and solid form of the compound.

2. Use:

Hydrogenated Lecithin is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, stabilizer, and surfactant. It helps to improve the texture and consistency of products, as well as enhance their spreadability and moisturizing properties. It is often found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare formulations.

3. Usage Hydrogenated Lecithin:

When using products containing Hydrogenated Lecithin, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies should perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. If any irritation or adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- S. R. Kulkarni, L. J. M. Coelho, E. M. R. Fairhurst, A. J. R. Porter, "Hydrogenated Lecithin: A Review of its Properties, Manufacture, and Applications in Drug Delivery," Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, vol. 106, no. 6, pp. 1681-1691, 2017.

- M. A. G. de Lima, C. A. S. Batista, L. B. de Oliveira, "Hydrogenated Lecithin as a Cosmetic Ingredient: A Review," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 42, no. 3, pp. 221-227, 2020.

- H. S. R. Silva, E. M. M. Santos, R. A. F. Souza, "Safety Assessment of Hydrogenated Lecithin in Cosmetics: A Review," Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology, vol. 109, 2020.

Dimethicone

Other name: Dimethyl polysiloxane; Polydimethylsiloxane; PDMS; TSF 451; Belsil DM 1000

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antifoaming Agent

1. Definition Dimethicone:

Dimethicone is a type of silicone oil that is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and emollient. It is a clear, odorless, and non-toxic substance that helps to improve the texture and feel of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Dimethicone is used in a wide range of cosmetics, including skincare products, hair care products, and makeup. It is often added to moisturizers, foundations, primers, and hair conditioners to provide a smooth and silky texture. Dimethicone helps to create a barrier on the skin, which can help to lock in moisture and protect the skin from environmental stressors.

3. Usage Dimethicone:

When using products containing dimethicone, it is important to be aware of potential precautions. While dimethicone is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing dimethicone, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, some people may find that dimethicone can clog pores and exacerbate acne, so it is important to monitor your skin for any changes when using products with this ingredient.

4. References:

- Lanigan, R. S., & Yamarik, T. A. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of dimethicone, dimethiconol, and related ingredients. International journal of toxicology, 21(1), 7-41.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic vehicle efficacy. Dermatologic therapy, 23(4), 314-317.

- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of dimethicone crosspolymers as used in cosmetics. International journal of toxicology, 35(1_suppl), 5S-24S.

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter

Function:

1. Definition Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter:

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter is a natural fat extracted from the nuts of the African shea tree. It is rich in vitamins and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Shea butter is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it a popular choice for hydrating dry skin. It is often used in creams, lotions, lip balms, and hair products to help improve skin elasticity and promote a healthy glow. Shea butter is also believed to have anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits, making it a versatile ingredient in various cosmetic formulations.

3. Usage Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter:

When using products containing Shea butter, it is important to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Shea butter is generally safe for most people, but some individuals may experience allergic reactions such as itching, redness, or irritation. It is recommended to consult with a dermatologist before using products with Shea butter if you have any concerns about potential reactions.

4. References:

- Akihisa T, Kojima N, Kikuchi T, Yasukawa K, Tokuda H, and Masters ET. Anti-inflammatory and chemopreventive effects of triterpene cinnamates and acetates from shea fat. Journal of Oleo Science. 2010; 59(6):273-80.

- Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences. 2018; 19(1):70.

- Aremu AO, Oyedeji AO, Oyedeji O, Okorie DO, and Nkeh-Chungag BN. Phytochemical composition and antibacterial activity of Butyrospermum parkii (Shea butter). Journal of Medicinal Plants Research. 2012; 6(26):4467-4472.

Alpha Arbutin

Other name: Hydroquinone-alpha-D-glucopyranoside; 4-Hydroxyphenyl-alpha-D-glucopyranoside; α-Arbutin

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Alpha Arbutin:

Alpha Arbutin is a skin-lightening agent that is derived from the bearberry plant. It is a type of hydroquinone derivative that is commonly used in skincare products to reduce the appearance of dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and melasma.

2. Use:

Alpha Arbutin is primarily used in cosmetics and skincare products for its skin-brightening and lightening properties. It works by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase, which is responsible for the production of melanin in the skin. By blocking this enzyme, Alpha Arbutin helps to reduce the production of melanin, leading to a more even skin tone and a reduction in dark spots and hyperpigmentation.

3. Usage Alpha Arbutin:

When using products containing Alpha Arbutin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, Alpha Arbutin is used in concentrations ranging from 1-2% in skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is recommended to apply the product to clean, dry skin once or twice daily, depending on the instructions. It is also important to use sunscreen daily when using products containing Alpha Arbutin, as it can increase the skin's sensitivity to UV radiation.

4. References:

- Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 455–461. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S84765

- Boissy, R. E., & Visscher, M. (2006). DeoxyArbutin: a novel reversible tyrosinase inhibitor with effective in vivo skin lightening potency. Experimental Dermatology, 15(9), 601–608. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1600-0625.2006.00449.x

- Smit, N., Vicanova, J., & Pavel, S. (2009). The hunt for natural skin whitening agents. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 10(12), 5326–5349. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms10125326

Butylene Glycol

Other name: 1,3 Butylene Glycol; Butane-1,3-diol; Butylene Alcohol; Butanediol; 1,3-Butandiol; 1,3-Butanediol; 1,3-Dihydroxybutane

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents

1. Definition Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is a small organic alcohol used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity-decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is derived from petroleum or natural gas.

2. Use:

Butylene Glycol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, a humectant to attract moisture to the skin, and a viscosity-decreasing agent to improve the texture and spreadability of the product. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve product absorption, and create a smooth, lightweight feel.

3. Usage Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to patch test products containing Butylene Glycol before use, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and avoid using products with Butylene Glycol if you have known allergies to similar ingredients.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2001). Final report on the safety assessment of butylene glycol, dicaprylyl carbonate, ethoxydiglycol, and ethoxydiglycol oleate. International Journal of Toxicology, 20(Suppl 4), 61-75.

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 24856, Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylene-glycol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2017). Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/butylene-glycol

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil

Function: Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient

1. Definition Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil is a natural oil derived from soybeans through a process of extraction. It is rich in essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and vitamins, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve skin elasticity, and protect against environmental stressors. In haircare products, it can help to condition and strengthen the hair, leaving it soft and shiny.

3. Usage Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil can be found in a variety of cosmetic products such as moisturizers, serums, cleansers, hair masks, and conditioners. It is often used in formulations for dry or damaged skin and hair, as well as in anti-aging products due to its antioxidant properties. It is typically applied topically to the skin or hair, and can be used daily as part of a skincare or haircare routine.

4. References:

- Kim, S. Y., Kim, H. W., & Lee, S. H. (2018). Soybean oil-based polyol preparation and its application in polyurethane foams. Journal of Industrial and Engineering Chemistry, 64, 25-32.

- Reiter, M., Walfisz, A., & Wertz, J. (2016). Antioxidant potential of soybean oil enriched with phospholipids. Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society, 93(2), 265-273.

- De Oliveira, D. M., Silva, R. C., & De Oliveira, L. E. (2015). Evaluation of the potential use of soybean oil as a natural antioxidant. Journal of Food Science and Technology, 52(5), 2808-2816.

Squalene

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning, Refatting

1. Definition Squalene:

Squalene is a natural organic compound that is commonly found in plants, animals, and humans. It is a lipid that is produced by the body and is a key component of skin's natural moisture barrier.

2. Use:

Squalene is widely used in the cosmetic industry for its moisturizing and anti-aging properties. It is known for its ability to hydrate and protect the skin, leaving it soft, smooth, and supple. Squalene is often used in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and face oils.

3. Usage Squalene:

When using products containing squalene, it is important to be aware of any potential allergies or sensitivities to the ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure that it does not cause any adverse reactions. Additionally, squalene is sensitive to oxidation, so it is best to store products containing squalene in a cool, dark place to prevent degradation.

4. References:

- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70.

- Kim, S. K., & Karadeniz, F. (2012). Biological importance and applications of squalene and squalane. Advances in Food and Nutrition Research, 65, 223-233.

- Sime, S., Reeve, V. E., & Protection, A. (2018). Protection from inflammation, immunosuppression and carcinogenesis induced by UV radiation in mice by topical Pycnogenol®. Photochemical & Photobiological Sciences, 17(1), 54-61.

1,2-Hexanediol

Function: Solvent

1. Definition 1,2-Hexanediol:

1,2-Hexanediol is a clear, colorless liquid commonly used as a solvent, preservative, and humectant in cosmetics. It is a type of glycol that is derived from petroleum.

2. Use:

1,2-Hexanediol is used in cosmetics as a solvent to help dissolve other ingredients, as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products, and as a humectant to help attract and retain moisture in the skin.

3. Usage 1,2-Hexanediol:

When using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol to determine if any sensitivity exists.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). 1,2-Hexanediol. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/12-hexanediol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Safety Assessment of 1,2-Hexanediol as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/2020-01-28-safety-assessment-of-12-hexanediol-as-used-in-cosmetics/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (n.d.). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.820

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate:

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate is a naturally derived ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant. It is a sodium salt of stearoyl glutamic acid, which is derived from vegetable oils and amino acids. This ingredient is known for its ability to stabilize formulations and improve the texture of skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products including creams, lotions, serums, shampoos, and conditioners. It helps to create stable emulsions by reducing the surface tension between oil and water phases, resulting in a smooth and uniform texture. Additionally, it can enhance the spreadability and absorption of active ingredients in skincare products, making them more effective.

3. Usage Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate:

When using products containing Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. This ingredient is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing this ingredient to their face or body. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- Cosmeticsinfo.org. (n.d.). Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sodium-stearoyl-glutamate

- Personal Care Council. (2015). Safety Assessment of Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr714.pdf

- The Derm Review. (n.d.). Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate. Retrieved from https://thedermreview.com/sodium-stearoyl-glutamate/

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer

Other name: Aristoflex AVC

Function: Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer:

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer is a synthetic polymer used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, stabilizer, and emulsifier. It is a copolymer of acryloyldimethyl taurate and vinylpyrrolidone, which helps to improve the texture and consistency of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer is commonly used in skincare and haircare products such as lotions, creams, gels, and hair styling products. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, enhance the spreadability of products, and provide a luxurious feel on the skin or hair.

3. Usage Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer:

When using products containing Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient. If any irritation or adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a dermatologist.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2014). Safety Assessment of Acryloyldimethyltaurate Polymers as Used in Cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 33(3), 53S-60S.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ammonium-acryloyldimethyltauratevp-copolymer

- Paula's Choice Skincare. (n.d.). Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer. Retrieved from https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/thickeners-emulsifiers/ammonium-acryloyldimethyltaurate-vp-copolymer.html

Xanthan Gum

Other name: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.

Lactic Acid

Other name: 2-hydroxypropanoic Acid; Milk Acid

Function: Fragrance, Humectant, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Exfoliant, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Humectant

1. Definition Lactic Acid:

Lactic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that is naturally found in milk and various fruits. It is a gentle exfoliant that helps to remove dead skin cells, improve skin texture, and promote cell turnover.

2. Use:

Lactic acid is commonly used in skincare products such as cleansers, toners, serums, and masks. It is known for its ability to hydrate the skin, improve skin tone and texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and brighten the complexion. Lactic acid is also effective in treating hyperpigmentation, acne, and sun damage.

3. Usage Lactic Acid:

When using products containing lactic acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase the frequency of use to prevent irritation. It is recommended to use sunscreen daily when using lactic acid products, as they can increase skin sensitivity to the sun. Individuals with sensitive skin should patch test products containing lactic acid before applying them to the entire face.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic dermatology: principles and practice. McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 455.

Disodium Edta

Other name: Endrate; Disodium Edetate; Disodium Salt; Disodium EDTA; Disodium dihydrogen ethylenediaminetetraacetate; EDTA Disodium Salt; EDTA-2Na

Function: Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA, or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium salt, is a chelating agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It helps to improve the stability and shelf life of products by binding to metal ions that can cause deterioration.

2. Use:

Disodium EDTA is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative and stabilizer. It helps to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria, as well as maintain the texture and appearance of products. Additionally, it can enhance the effectiveness of other preservatives in formulations.

3. Usage Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 0.5% in cosmetics. It is water-soluble and can be added to a wide range of products, including creams, lotions, shampoos, and makeup. However, it is important to note that while Disodium EDTA is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it and experience skin irritation. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Disodium EDTA, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTA. International Journal of Toxicology, 21(Suppl 2), 95-142.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). EDTA. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/edta/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=184.1133

Alcohol

Other name: Ethanol; Grain Alcohol; Ethyl Alcohol

Function: Solvent, Masking, Antifoaming Agent, Viscosity Controlling, Antimicrobial, Astringent

1. Definition Alcohol:

Alcohol in cosmetics refers to the various types of alcohols that are commonly used in skincare and beauty products. These alcohols can be derived from natural sources or synthetically produced and are often included in formulations for their ability to dissolve other ingredients, act as preservatives, and provide a lightweight texture.

2. Use:

Alcohol in cosmetics is commonly used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation, such as essential oils, fragrances, and active ingredients. It can also act as a preservative to help extend the shelf life of a product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, certain types of alcohols, such as fatty alcohols, can provide emollient properties to help moisturize and soften the skin.

3. Usage Alcohol:

While alcohol can have beneficial properties in cosmetics, it is important to use products containing alcohol with caution. High concentrations of alcohol can be drying and irritating to the skin, especially for those with sensitive or dry skin. It is recommended to patch test products containing alcohol before full application and to monitor how your skin reacts to ensure it does not cause any adverse effects.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw-Hill Professional.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2005). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

Tocopherol

Other name: Tocopherol; Vit E; vitamin E; α-Tocopherol; Alpha-tocopherol

Function:

1. Definition Tocopherol:

Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Tocopherol:

Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.

Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate:

Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate is a naturally occurring compound that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its hydrating and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a modified form of chondroitin sulfate, a substance found in the connective tissues of animals.

2. Use:

Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate is often included in cosmetics for its ability to improve skin hydration and elasticity. It is known to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, as well as soothe irritated skin. Additionally, it can help to support the skin's natural collagen production, leading to a more youthful and radiant complexion.

3. Usage Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate:

When using cosmetics containing Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. Typically, the product should be applied to clean, dry skin and gently massaged in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use the product regularly for best results, and to discontinue use if any irritation or allergic reactions occur.

4. References:

- Park, J., Kim, H., Kim, J., & Kim, Y. (2015). Anti-inflammatory effects of sodium chondroitin sulfate on lipopolysaccharide-stimulated macrophages and its structural characterization. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 80, 472-479.

- Fujii, T., Uemura, K., & Yamamoto, T. (2008). Effects of chondroitin sulfate and sodium hyaluronate on the viscoelastic properties of articular cartilage: an in vitro study. Journal of Orthopaedic Science, 13(4), 357-362.

- Lee, J., Kim, J., & Kim, Y. (2012). Moisturizing effects of sodium chondroitin sulfate on human skin. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 63(4), 267-274.

Glutathione

Other name: GSH

Function: Fragrance, Reducing

1. Definition Glutathione:

Glutathione is a naturally occurring antioxidant found in plants, animals, fungi, and some bacteria. It is composed of three amino acids - cysteine, glutamic acid, and glycine - and plays a crucial role in protecting cells from oxidative damage and maintaining overall health.

2. Use:

Glutathione is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-lightening properties. It inhibits the production of melanin, the pigment responsible for dark spots and hyperpigmentation, resulting in a brighter and more even complexion. It is also known for its anti-aging benefits, as it helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Glutathione:

Glutathione can be found in various skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either as a standalone product or in combination with other ingredients. It is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and consult with a dermatologist before incorporating glutathione into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Wu, Y., & Zheng, X. (2018). The antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of glutathione on UVB-irradiated human skin. European Journal of Inflammation, 16(1), 1-6.

- Watanabe, F., Hashizume, E., Chan, G., & Kamimura, A. (2014). Skin-whitening and skin-condition-improving effects of topical oxidized glutathione: a double-blind and placebo-controlled clinical trial in healthy women. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 7, 267-274.

- Arjinpathana, N., Asawanonda, P., & Klahan, S. (2012). Glutathione as an oral whitening agent: a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study. Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 23(2), 97-102.

Oligopeptide-68

Function: Bleaching

1. Definition Oligopeptide-68:

Oligopeptide-68 is a synthetic peptide that is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin brightening and anti-aging properties. It is a small chain of amino acids that can penetrate the skin easily and stimulate collagen production, leading to improved skin texture and tone.

2. Use:

Oligopeptide-68 is primarily used in skincare products to target hyperpigmentation, age spots, and uneven skin tone. It works by inhibiting melanin production and promoting skin cell turnover, resulting in a more even complexion and reduced appearance of dark spots. Additionally, it can help to minimize the signs of aging by boosting collagen synthesis and improving skin elasticity.

3. Usage Oligopeptide-68:

When using products containing Oligopeptide-68, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, these products are applied to clean, dry skin either in the morning or evening, depending on the formulation. It is recommended to use sunscreen during the day when using Oligopeptide-68 to protect the skin from further damage and maintain the results of the treatment.

4. References:

- Kim, H. J., Kim, J. H., Kim, K. W., & Kim, M. B. (2007). Oligopeptide-68, a synthetic peptide derived from transforming growth factor beta, inhibits UVB-induced wrinkle formation. International journal of cosmetic science, 29(3), 195-201.

- Kim, S. Y., Kim, J. E., Lee, S. J., & Lee, J. H. (2020). Oligopeptide-68 improves skin pigmentation and wrinkle formation in vivo. Journal of cosmetic dermatology, 19(4), 886-892.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, S. Y., Kim, J. E., & Kim, K. W. (2019). Oligopeptide-68 protects human skin fibroblasts from UVB-induced photoaging. Journal of dermatological science, 94(3), 332-339.

Sodium Oleate

Function: Surfactant, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsifying, Sufactant

1. Definition Sodium Oleate:

Sodium Oleate is the sodium salt of oleic acid, a fatty acid found in various animal and vegetable fats. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a surfactant and emulsifier due to its ability to help mix oil and water-based ingredients.

2. Use:

Sodium Oleate is often used in cosmetics as a cleansing agent in facial cleansers, body washes, and shampoos. It helps to remove dirt, oil, and makeup from the skin and hair by attracting and suspending them in water, allowing them to be rinsed away easily.

3. Usage Sodium Oleate:

When using products containing Sodium Oleate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Avoid contact with eyes, as it may cause irritation. If the product comes into contact with the eyes, rinse thoroughly with water. It is also recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- S. P. Agarwal, J. S. Agarwal, R. K. Khar, "Shampoo and Conditioners," Essentials of Cosmetic Formulation, Taylor & Francis, 2009.

- M. Paye, H. Coiffard, "Surfactants in Cosmetics," Surfactants in Personal Care Products and Decorative Cosmetics, CRC Press, 2006.

- J. W. Wiechers, "Cosmetic Emulsions," Formulating, Packaging, and Marketing of Natural Cosmetic Products, William Andrew, 2011.

Phenoxyethanol

Other name: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.

3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:

When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.

Benzyl Alcohol

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Preservative, External Analgesic

1. Definition Benzyl Alcohol:

Benzyl Alcohol is a clear, colorless liquid with a mild, pleasant aroma. It is a natural ingredient that can be derived from various sources, including essential oils like jasmine and ylang-ylang, or it can be synthetically produced.

2. Use:

Benzyl Alcohol is commonly used in cosmetics as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria, yeast, and mold. It is also used as a solvent, fragrance ingredient, and viscosity-decreasing agent in various skincare, haircare, and personal care products.

3. Usage Benzyl Alcohol:

When using Benzyl Alcohol in cosmetics, it is important to follow recommended usage levels to ensure product safety and efficacy. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has deemed Benzyl Alcohol safe for use in cosmetics at concentrations up to 1%, with some exceptions. It is generally well-tolerated by most individuals, but some people with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Benzyl Alcohol, especially if you have a history of skin sensitivities.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2008). Final report on the safety assessment of Benzyl Alcohol, Benzoic Acid, and Sodium Benzoate. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(1), 1-23.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Benzyl Alcohol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/benzyl-alcohol

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). PubChem Compound Summary for CID 244, Benzyl Alcohol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Benzyl-alcohol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Other name: Octoxyglycerin

Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.

2. Use:

Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.

3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.

- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.

Parfum (Fragrance)

Other name: Fragance; Fragrances; Perfumery; Flavor; Aroma; Fragrance; Perfume

Function: Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant

1. Definition Fragrance:

Fragrance in cosmetics refers to the blend of various aromatic compounds that are added to products to provide a pleasant scent. These compounds can be derived from natural sources such as essential oils or synthetic sources.

2. Use:

Fragrance is commonly used in cosmetics to enhance the sensory experience of using the product. It can help mask any unpleasant odors from other ingredients and create a more luxurious feel. Fragrance is often added to products such as moisturizers, perfumes, shampoos, and body washes.

3. Usage Fragrance:

When using cosmetics containing fragrance, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to certain fragrances. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and storage of the product to ensure the fragrance remains stable and effective.

4. References:

- Steinemann, A. (2019). Fragranced consumer products: exposures and effects from emissions. Air Quality, Atmosphere & Health, 12(6), 643-645.

- Lachenmeier, D. W., & Haltner, E. (2019). Fragrance allergens in household cleaning products. Environmental Science and Pollution Research, 26(15), 15145-15147.

- Basketter, D. A., & Angelini, G. (2019). Fragrance allergens in fine fragrances and cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis, 80(3), 145-147.

Hexamethylindanopyran

Function: Masking, Perfuming

1. Definition Hexamethylindanopyran:

Hexamethylindanopyran is a synthetic fragrance ingredient commonly used in cosmetics. It belongs to the family of polycyclic musks and is known for its woody, musky scent.

2. Use:

Hexamethylindanopyran is primarily used as a fragrance ingredient in various cosmetic products such as perfumes, lotions, and skincare products. It provides a long-lasting, warm, and sophisticated scent that enhances the overall sensory experience of the product.

3. Usage Hexamethylindanopyran:

Hexamethylindanopyran is typically used in low concentrations in cosmetic formulations to avoid potential skin sensitization or irritation. It is important to follow the recommended dosage guidelines provided by the manufacturer to ensure the safety and efficacy of the product. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is advisable to perform a patch test before using a product containing Hexamethylindanopyran to check for any allergic reactions.

4. References:

- International Journal of Cosmetic Science. (2008). Fragrance materials review on hexamethylindanopyran. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00460.x

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2009). Safety assessment of hexamethylindanopyran. https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/hexamethylindanopyran.pdf

- Fragrance Materials Association. (2015). Hexamethylindanopyran: A fragrance ingredient safety assessment. https://www.fmafragrance.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/Hexamethylindanopyran.pdf

Tetramethyl Acetyloctahydronaphthalenes

Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking, Perfuming

1. Definition Tetramethyl Acetyloctahydronaphthalenes:

Tetramethyl Acetyloctahydronaphthalenes, also known as Iso E Super, is a synthetic fragrance ingredient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a woody, musky scent.

2. Use:

Tetramethyl Acetyloctahydronaphthalenes is primarily used as a fragrance ingredient in a wide range of cosmetic products, including perfumes, lotions, and body washes. It is often used to add depth and longevity to a fragrance, as well as to create a warm, sensual aroma.

3. Usage Tetramethyl Acetyloctahydronaphthalenes:

When using products containing Tetramethyl Acetyloctahydronaphthalenes, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product for the first time to check for any potential allergic reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin or allergies should be cautious when using products containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- International Fragrance Association. (2019). Tetramethyl Acetyloctahydronaphthalenes. Retrieved from https://www.ifraorg.org/en-us/standards (Accessed on October 20, 2021).

- Cosmetics Info. (2021). Tetramethyl Acetyloctahydronaphthalenes. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/tetramethyl-acetyloctahydronaphthalenes-0 (Accessed on October 20, 2021).

- Personal Care Products Council. (2020). Tetramethyl Acetyloctahydronaphthalenes. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/tetramethyl-acetyloctahydronaphthalenes/ (Accessed on October 20, 2021).

Linalyl Acetate

Function: Masking, Fragrance

1. Definition Linalyl Acetate:

Linalyl Acetate is a naturally occurring ester found in various essential oils, such as lavender, bergamot, and clary sage. It is commonly used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics due to its sweet, floral scent.

2. Use:

Linalyl Acetate is primarily used in cosmetics and personal care products as a fragrance ingredient to impart a pleasant aroma. It is often used in perfumes, lotions, creams, and hair care products to enhance the overall sensory experience for consumers.

3. Usage Linalyl Acetate:

When using products containing Linalyl Acetate, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Linalyl Acetate to ensure there are no adverse reactions. Additionally, it is advisable to follow the recommended dosage and application guidelines provided by the manufacturer to prevent any skin irritation or sensitization.

4. References:

- Essential Oil Safety: A Guide for Health Care Professionals by Robert Tisserand and Rodney Young

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel, Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Linalyl Acetate

- International Fragrance Association (IFRA) Standards for the safe use of Linalyl Acetate in fragrances

Limonene

Other name: L-limonene; D-limonene

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Deodorant

1. Definition Limonene:

Limonene is a natural compound found in the peels of citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and grapefruits. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its fresh, citrusy scent.

2. Use:

Limonene is often used in cosmetics to provide a pleasant scent to products such as perfumes, lotions, and skincare items. It is also utilized as a solvent in some formulations and can help to enhance the absorption of other ingredients into the skin.

3. Usage Limonene:

When using products containing limonene, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitization and irritation. Some individuals may be allergic to limonene, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. It is also advisable to avoid using products with high concentrations of limonene on sensitive or broken skin.

4. References:

- Burdock, G. A. (2010). Fenaroli's handbook of flavor ingredients. CRC Press.

- Reifenrath, W. G., & Chirico, S. (2012). Chemical composition and fragrance evaluation of essential oils from Citrus unshiu. Journal of essential oil research, 24(1), 61-69.

- Jäger, W., Buchbauer, G., Jirovetz, L., Fritzer, M., & Woidich, A. (1992). Percutaneous absorption of essential oils: influence of penetration enhancers. Journal of pharmaceutical sciences, 81(3), 254-258.

Citrus Aurantium Peel Oil

Function:

Hexyl Cinnamal

Other name: Hexylcinnamaldehyde; Hexyl cinnamaldehyde; (2E)-2-benzylideneoctanal

Function: Masking, Fragrance

1. Definition Hexyl Cinnamal:

Hexyl Cinnamal, also known as hexyl cinnamaldehyde or hexylcinnamal, is a synthetic fragrance ingredient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a clear, pale yellow liquid with a sweet, floral scent reminiscent of jasmine.

2. Use:

Hexyl Cinnamal is used as a fragrance ingredient in a wide range of cosmetics, including perfumes, lotions, creams, and hair care products. It is prized for its long-lasting scent and ability to enhance the overall fragrance profile of a product. Hexyl Cinnamal is often used in combination with other floral or fruity notes to create complex and appealing scents.

3. Usage Hexyl Cinnamal:

Hexyl Cinnamal is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used at low concentrations. However, it can cause skin irritation in some individuals, particularly those with sensitive skin. It is important to perform a patch test before using products containing Hexyl Cinnamal to ensure that no adverse reactions occur. Additionally, pregnant women should consult with their healthcare provider before using products containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- "Hexyl Cinnamal" in Cosmeticsinfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/hexyl-cinnamal

- "Safety Assessment of Hexyl Cinnamal" in the International Journal of Toxicology, https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/10.1177/1091581818780985

- "Hexyl Cinnamal" in the European Commission's CosIng Database, https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/index.cfm?fuseaction=search.details_v2&id=30132

Citrus Limon Peel Oil

Function:

1. Definition Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Oil:

Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Oil is a natural essential oil extracted from the peel of lemons. It is known for its refreshing and uplifting citrus scent.

2. Use:

Lemon Peel Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its astringent and toning properties. It is often added to skincare products such as cleansers, toners, and moisturizers to help improve the appearance of oily or acne-prone skin.

3. Usage Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Oil:

When using Lemon Peel Oil in cosmetics, it is important to dilute it properly as it can be irritating to the skin if used undiluted. It is recommended to do a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to check for any sensitivity or allergic reactions. Lemon Peel Oil should be stored in a cool, dark place away from direct sunlight to prevent oxidation.

4. References:

- "Lemon Peel Oil: Benefits, Uses, and Side Effects." Healthline, www.healthline.com/health/lemon-peel-oil.

- "Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Oil." The Dermatology Review, www.thedermreview.com/citrus-limon-lemon-peel-oil.

- "Lemon Peel Oil." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/lemon-peel-oil.

Pinene

Function:

1. Definition Pinene:

Pinene is a naturally occurring terpene found in plants such as pine trees, rosemary, and sage. It is known for its distinctive pine-like aroma and is commonly used in cosmetics for its fragrance and potential therapeutic properties.

2. Use:

Pinene is often used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its fresh and earthy scent reminiscent of pine forests. It is also believed to have antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular choice for skincare products.

3. Usage Pinene:

Pinene can be found in a variety of cosmetic products such as perfumes, lotions, and facial oils. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but it is important to perform a patch test before using products containing pinene to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is recommended to consult with a healthcare professional before using pinene if you are pregnant, nursing, or have any underlying medical conditions.

4. References:

- Russo, E. B. (2011). Taming THC: potential cannabis synergy and phytocannabinoid-terpenoid entourage effects. British Journal of Pharmacology, 163(7), 1344-1364.

- Bakkali, F., Averbeck, S., Averbeck, D., & Idaomar, M. (2008). Biological effects of essential oils – a review. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 46(2), 446-475.

- Guimarães, A. G., Quintans, J. S. S., Quintans-Júnior, L. J. (2013). Monoterpenes with analgesic activity – a systematic review. Phytotherapy Research, 27(1), 1-15.

Linalool

Function: Masking, Deodorant, Fragrance

1. Definition Linalool:

Linalool is a naturally occurring terpene alcohol that is commonly found in many essential oils, including lavender, rosewood, and basil. It is known for its pleasant floral aroma and is often used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Linalool is primarily used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its pleasant scent. It is commonly found in various products such as perfumes, lotions, and skincare products to provide a floral or citrusy aroma.

3. Usage Linalool:

When using cosmetics containing linalool, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitization and irritation. Some individuals may be allergic to linalool, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient. It is also important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to avoid any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Andersen, F. A. (2008). Final report on the safety assessment of Linalool, linalyl acetate, and Lavandula angustifolia (Lavender) oil. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(1), 1-28.

- Opdyke, D. L. (1976). Monographs on fragrance raw materials. Food and Cosmetics Toxicology, 14(5), 479-480.

- Reifenrath, W. G., & Van Beek, T. A. (2013). Linalool and linalool rich essential oils. In Natural Products (pp. 1541-1587). Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg.