Full ingredients list Biofficina Toscana Antioxidant Facial ...

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
1	B	Ethylhexyl Palmitate (Skin Conditioning, Perfuming, Emollient, Fragrance)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Squalane (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Refatting)
1		Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate (Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1	A	Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Glyceryl Stearate Se (Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Cetearyl Alcohol (Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous)
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1	A	Cocoglycerides (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Hydrolyzed Grape Fruit (Skin Protecting, Astringent)
		Hydrolyzed Olive Fruit (Emollient, Skin Protecting, Uv Absorber, Antioxidant)
1		Ceratonia Siliqua Gum (Masking, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding, Film Forming)
1		Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Fruit Extract
1		Silybum Marianum Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Crataegus Monogyna Fruit Extract (Skin Conditioning)
		Melilotus Officinalis Flower Extract*
1		Tocopherol	Good for dry skin Anti Aging
1	A	Xanthan Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming)
8		Fragrance (Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant)	Good for dry skin
2		Propanediol (Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1	B	Phenethyl Alcohol (Masking, Fragrance, Preservative)
1		Undecyl Alcohol (Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emollient, Fragrance, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Antiseborrhoeic)
1 4	B	Lactic Acid (Fragrance, Humectant, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Exfoliant, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Humectant)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin
1		Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate (Chelating Agent)
1 2		Lecithin (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1 2	A	Citric Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin
3		Hexyl Cinnamal (Masking, Fragrance)	Allergen
3 6		Hydroxycitronellal (Masking, Fragrance)	Allergen
3 5		Geraniol (Masking, Fragrance, Tonic)	Allergen
1	A	Ascorbyl Palmitate (Masking, Antioxidant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
3 4		Citronellol (Masking, Fragrance)	Allergen
3 5		Benzyl Salicylate (Masking, Fragrance, Uv Absorber)	Allergen
4 5		Limonene (Solvent, Perfuming, Deodorant)	Allergen

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Other name: Octyl Palmitate; Hexadecanoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester

Function: Skin Conditioning, Perfuming, Emollient, Fragrance

1. Definition Ethylhexyl Palmitate:

Ethylhexyl Palmitate is a synthetic ester derived from palm oil and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin-conditioning agent and emollient. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a light, non-greasy texture.

2. Use:

Ethylhexyl Palmitate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as moisturizers, sunscreens, foundations, and lipsticks. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, making it smooth and easy to apply. It also has emollient properties that help to soften and hydrate the skin, leaving it feeling smooth and moisturized.

3. Usage Ethylhexyl Palmitate:

When using products containing Ethylhexyl Palmitate, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience irritation or breakouts when using products with this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is advisable to consult with a dermatologist if you have sensitive skin or a history of skin reactions to certain ingredients.

4. References:

- Ethylhexyl Palmitate. (n.d.). Cosmetics Info. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexyl-palmitate

- Guo, L., & Lai, W. (2012). Ethylhexyl Palmitate. In Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (pp. 193-200). CRC Press.

- Ethylhexyl Palmitate. (n.d.). The Derm Review. https://thedermreview.com/ethylhexyl-palmitate/

Squalane

Other name: Perhydrosqualene; Pripure 3759

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Refatting

1. Definition Squalane:

Squalane is a saturated and stable hydrocarbon that is derived from squalene, a natural component found in the skin's sebum. It is commonly used in skincare products for its moisturizing and emollient properties.

2. Use:

Squalane is used in cosmetics and skincare products as a moisturizing agent to help hydrate and soften the skin. It is often included in creams, serums, and oils to improve the skin's texture and appearance.

3. Usage Squalane:

Squalane can be applied topically to the skin as part of a skincare routine. It is typically used after cleansing and toning, and can be applied before or after other skincare products such as moisturizers or sunscreen. Squalane is well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, and can help to improve the skin's hydration levels and overall health.

Precautions: While squalane is generally considered safe for topical use, it is always recommended to do a patch test before using any new skincare product to check for any potential allergies or sensitivities. Additionally, individuals with specific skin conditions or concerns should consult with a dermatologist before incorporating squalane into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2005). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2015). Cosmeceuticals. Philadelphia: Saunders.

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327-348.

Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate:

Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate is a versatile ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and stabilizer. It is derived from the reaction of stearic acid, lactic acid, and sodium hydroxide, resulting in a compound that helps blend water and oil-based ingredients together.

2. Use:

Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate is primarily used in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums to create a smooth and creamy texture. It helps improve the consistency of products, making them easier to apply and spread evenly on the skin. Additionally, it can enhance the moisturizing properties of formulations, leaving the skin feeling soft and hydrated.

3. Usage Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate:

When using products containing Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products containing this ingredient into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- "Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate" by Cosmetics Info (https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sodium-stearoyl-lactylate)

- "Safety Assessment of Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel (https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/sodiumstearoyllactylate.pdf)

- "The Role of Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate in Cosmetic Formulations" by Journal of Cosmetic Science (https://www.ingentaconnect.com/contentone/scc/jcs/2016/00000067/00000005/art00008)

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter

Function:

1. Definition Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter:

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter is a natural fat extracted from the nuts of the African shea tree. It is rich in vitamins and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Shea butter is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it a popular choice for hydrating dry skin. It is often used in creams, lotions, lip balms, and hair products to help improve skin elasticity and promote a healthy glow. Shea butter is also believed to have anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits, making it a versatile ingredient in various cosmetic formulations.

3. Usage Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter:

When using products containing Shea butter, it is important to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Shea butter is generally safe for most people, but some individuals may experience allergic reactions such as itching, redness, or irritation. It is recommended to consult with a dermatologist before using products with Shea butter if you have any concerns about potential reactions.

4. References:

- Akihisa T, Kojima N, Kikuchi T, Yasukawa K, Tokuda H, and Masters ET. Anti-inflammatory and chemopreventive effects of triterpene cinnamates and acetates from shea fat. Journal of Oleo Science. 2010; 59(6):273-80.

- Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences. 2018; 19(1):70.

- Aremu AO, Oyedeji AO, Oyedeji O, Okorie DO, and Nkeh-Chungag BN. Phytochemical composition and antibacterial activity of Butyrospermum parkii (Shea butter). Journal of Medicinal Plants Research. 2012; 6(26):4467-4472.

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Other name: Glyceryl monostearate SE

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Glyceryl Stearate Se:

Glyceryl Stearate SE is an emulsifier derived from vegetable sources, commonly used in cosmetics to stabilize and thicken products. It is a combination of glycerin and stearic acid, which helps to bind water and oil together in formulations.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Stearate SE is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and sunscreens. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve spreadability, and enhance the overall feel of the product on the skin. Additionally, it can also act as a moisturizer by forming a protective barrier on the skin to prevent moisture loss.

3. Usage Glyceryl Stearate Se:

When using products containing Glyceryl Stearate SE, it is important to follow the recommended usage guidelines provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if irritation or allergic reactions occur, it is advisable to discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2012). Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Glyceryl Stearate Hydroxystearate, Glyceryl Stearate Lactate, Glyceryl Stearate Oleate, Glyceryl Stearate Palmitate, Glyceryl Stearate Succinate. International Journal of Toxicology, 31(4), 5S-35S.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Glyceryl Stearate SE. Retrieved from https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr150.pdf

- Lodeiro, C., & Reis, A. (2018). Emulsifiers in Cosmetics. In Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (4th ed., pp. 381-397). CRC Press.

Cetearyl Alcohol

Other name: Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol; Cetostearyl Alcohol; C16-18 Alcohols

Function: Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous

1. Definition Cetearyl Alcohol:

Cetearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients.

2. Use:

Cetearyl Alcohol is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and hair conditioners. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, as well as improve the texture and consistency of the product. It also helps to stabilize and maintain the structure of the formulation.

3. Usage Cetearyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Cetearyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when using products with Cetearyl Alcohol, so it is recommended to do a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions for use provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective application.

4. References:

- "Cetearyl Alcohol" by Paula Begoun, Cosmetics Cop, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetearyl-alcohol.html

- "Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics: Safe or Harmful?" by Dr. Anvita Arora, Dermatologist, https://www.dranvitaarora.com/cetearyl-alcohol-in-cosmetics-safe-or-harmful/

- "The Role of Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/cetearylcir.pdf

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Cocoglycerides

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying

1. Definition Cocoglycerides:

Cocoglycerides are a mixture of mono-, di-, and triglycerides derived from coconut oil. They are commonly used in cosmetics as emollients and skin conditioning agents due to their moisturizing properties.

2. Use:

Cocoglycerides are used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and body washes to provide hydration and improve the overall texture of the skin. They help to replenish and retain moisture, leaving the skin feeling soft and smooth.

3. Usage Cocoglycerides:

When using products containing cocoglycerides, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommended usage guidelines. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies should perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if irritation or adverse reactions occur, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Cocoglycerides." Cosmeticsinfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/cocoglycerides.

- Meksi, Noura, et al. "Formulation and characterization of a natural emulsified system based on cocoglycerides." Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology, vol. 41, no. 5, 2020, pp. 706-715.

- Verallo-Rowell, Vermén M., et al. "Contact dermatitis to coconut oil: identification of a novel allergen." Dermatitis, vol. 19, no. 5, 2008, pp. 308-314.

Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil

Other name: Olea Europaea Fruit; Olive Fruit

Function:

1. Definition Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil:

Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil is a natural oil extracted from the fruit of the olive tree. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and fatty acids that help nourish and protect the skin.

2. Use:

Olive oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and emollient properties. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and body lotions. Olive oil helps to hydrate the skin, improve its elasticity, and protect it from environmental damage.

3. Usage Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil:

When using products containing Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. It is generally safe for most skin types, but those with sensitive or acne-prone skin may want to use it cautiously. Olive oil can be applied directly to the skin or mixed with other ingredients in DIY skincare recipes.

4. References:

- Paula Begoun. (2003). "Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me." Beginning Press.

- P. Konstantinidou, et al. (2010). "In vivo nutrigenomic effects of virgin olive oil polyphenols within the frame of the Mediterranean diet: a randomized controlled trial." The FASEB Journal.

- A. Ghanbari, et al. (2012). "Olive oil and cancer." Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society.

Hydrolyzed Grape Fruit

Function: Skin Protecting, Astringent

1. Definition Hydrolyzed Grape Fruit:

Hydrolyzed Grape Fruit is a cosmetic ingredient derived from grapefruit extract that has undergone hydrolysis, a process that breaks down the larger molecules into smaller ones. This results in a more concentrated form of grapefruit extract that is easier for the skin to absorb.

2. Use:

Hydrolyzed Grape Fruit is commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties. It helps to protect the skin from environmental stressors, such as pollution and UV radiation, which can lead to premature aging. Additionally, it has brightening and exfoliating properties, making it beneficial for improving the overall appearance of the skin.

3. Usage Hydrolyzed Grape Fruit:

Hydrolyzed Grape Fruit can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, moisturizers, and masks. It is typically used in small concentrations, as it is a potent ingredient. When using products containing Hydrolyzed Grape Fruit, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer to avoid any potential adverse reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to check for any sensitivity or allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Park, J. H., & Kim, S. N. (2015). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of hydrolyzed grapefruit peel extracts. Journal of the Science of Food and Agriculture, 95(4), 798-805.

- Ribeiro, A. S., Estevinho, B. N., & Rocha, F. (2018). Grapefruit (Citrus paradisi Macfad) by-products: A review of their main components and health-related properties. Trends in Food Science & Technology, 80, 49-57.

- Serra, A. T., Matias, A. A., Fraga, C. G., & Viana, A. S. (2012). Hydroxycinnamic acid antioxidants: An electrochemical overview. BioMed Research International, 2012.

Hydrolyzed Olive Fruit

Function: Emollient, Skin Protecting, Uv Absorber, Antioxidant

1. Definition Hydrolyzed Olive Fruit:

Hydrolyzed Olive Fruit is a cosmetic ingredient derived from olive fruit that has undergone a hydrolysis process, breaking down the molecules into smaller fragments for better absorption by the skin.

2. Use:

Hydrolyzed Olive Fruit is known for its antioxidant properties, which help protect the skin from environmental stressors and premature aging. It also has moisturizing and soothing benefits, making it suitable for hydrating and calming the skin. Additionally, it can help improve the overall texture and appearance of the skin, leaving it looking smooth and radiant.

3. Usage Hydrolyzed Olive Fruit:

Hydrolyzed Olive Fruit is commonly found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 5% in formulations. To use products containing Hydrolyzed Olive Fruit, apply a small amount to clean, dry skin and gently massage until fully absorbed. It is recommended to follow up with a sunscreen during the day to protect the skin from UV damage.

4. References:

- Perez-Sanchez, A., Barrajon-Catalan, E., Herranz-Lopez, M., Micol, V. (2013). Nutraceuticals for Skin Care: A Comprehensive Review of Human Clinical Studies. Nutrients, 5(8), 3054-3081.

- Paiva-Santos, A., & Mendes, A. (2020). Olive Oil and Derivatives: Nutritional and Cosmetic Benefits. Cosmetics, 7(2), 32.

- Tundis, R., & Loizzo, M. R. (2016). Nutritional and Health-Promoting Benefits of Olive Fruit. Olive and Olive Oil Bioactive Constituents, 259-279.

Ceratonia Siliqua Gum

Other name: Carob bean Gum

Function: Masking, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding, Film Forming

1. Definition Ceratonia Siliqua Gum:

Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, also known as carob gum or locust bean gum, is a natural thickening agent derived from the seeds of the carob tree. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a stabilizer, emulsifier, and viscosity enhancer.

2. Use:

Ceratonia Siliqua Gum is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products such as creams, lotions, and gels. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture while also providing a moisturizing effect on the skin. Additionally, it can help to stabilize emulsions and prevent separation of ingredients in formulations.

3. Usage Ceratonia Siliqua Gum:

When using Ceratonia Siliqua Gum in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer. Overuse of this ingredient can result in a thick and sticky texture, which may not be desirable in certain formulations. It is also important to properly disperse the gum in the formulation to ensure even distribution and optimal performance.

Precautions: While Ceratonia Siliqua Gum is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient, especially if you have a history of skin sensitivities.

4. References:

- M. P. López-Rubio, M. A. Lagaron, M. Anker, and R. Wittkowski. 2004. "Functional properties of sodium caseinate–carob germ protein conjugates obtained by Maillard reaction." Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry 52(18): 5793-5800.

- M. A. Lagaron, M. P. López-Rubio, and R. Wittkowski. 2006. "Interfacial and emulsifying properties of sodium caseinate–carob germ protein conjugates obtained by the Maillard reaction." Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry 54(5): 1729-1736.

- S. S. Anand and R. N. Tharanathan. 2005. "Chitin/chitosan: modifications and their unlimited application potential—an overview." Trends in Food Science & Technology 16(10): 521-535.

Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Fruit Extract

Other name: Ribes Nigrum Fruit Extract; Black Currant Fruit Extract

Function:

1. Definition Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Fruit Extract:

Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Fruit Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the black currant fruit, known for its high content of antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and hydrating properties.

2. Use:

Black currant fruit extract is used in skincare products for its ability to protect the skin from environmental stressors, reduce inflammation, and promote a healthy complexion. It is often included in anti-aging formulations to help combat the signs of aging, such as fine lines and wrinkles. Additionally, black currant extract is known to help brighten the skin and improve overall skin tone.

3. Usage Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Fruit Extract:

Black currant fruit extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied directly to the skin or mixed with other ingredients. To use, apply a small amount of product containing black currant extract to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed.

4. References:

- Kwon, Y. S., Park, S. H., Kang, Y. M., & Lee, J. G. (2012). Anti-inflammatory effects of black currant (Ribes nigrum) extract via the nuclear factor-kappa B signaling pathway in lipopolysaccharide-stimulated RAW 264.7 macrophages. Food Science and Biotechnology, 21(6), 1663-1669.

- Lee, K. W., Kim, Y. J., Kim, D. O., Lee, H. J., & Lee, C. Y. (2005). Major phenolics in black currant extracts and phenolic content of black currant and other berry fruits by high-performance liquid chromatography. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 53(8), 2842-2848.

- Jang, J. H., Kim, S. W., Kwon, Y. S., & Lee, J. G. (2011). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of black currant (Ribes nigrum) extract in high-fat diet-fed C57BL/6 mice. Food Science and Biotechnology, 20(2), 505-511.

Silybum Marianum Extract

Other name: Silybum marianum; Blessed Milk Thistle; Milk Thistle; Marian Thistle; Variegated Thistle; Silymarin

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Silybum Marianum Extract:

Silybum Marianum Extract, also known as Milk Thistle Extract, is a natural ingredient derived from the seeds of the milk thistle plant. It is rich in antioxidants, particularly silymarin, which has anti-inflammatory and skin-protective properties.

2. Use:

Silybum Marianum Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and anti-aging benefits. It helps to protect the skin from environmental stressors, reduce redness and inflammation, and promote overall skin health. Additionally, it can help to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging skincare products.

3. Usage Silybum Marianum Extract:

Silybum Marianum Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations of 0.5-2% and is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. To use, apply a small amount of product containing Silybum Marianum Extract to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a regular skincare routine.

4. References:

- Saller R, Meier R, Brignoli R. The use of silymarin in the treatment of liver diseases. Drugs. 2001;61(14):2035-63.

- Surai PF, Silymarin as a Natural Antioxidant: An Overview of the Current Evidence and Perspectives. Antioxidants (Basel). 2015;4(1):204-47.

- Gazák R, Walterová D, Kren V. Silybin and silymarin--new and emerging applications in medicine. Curr Med Chem. 2007;14(3):315-38.

Crataegus Monogyna Fruit Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Crataegus Monogyna Fruit Extract:

Crataegus Monogyna Fruit Extract is derived from the hawthorn plant, also known as one-seed hawthorn or common hawthorn. It is a natural ingredient that is rich in antioxidants, flavonoids, and other beneficial compounds that can help improve the overall health and appearance of the skin.

2. Use:

Crataegus Monogyna Fruit Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties, which help protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging. It can also help improve the skin's texture and tone, reduce inflammation, and promote collagen production. Additionally, it has astringent properties that can help tighten and firm the skin, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging and firming skincare products.

3. Usage Crataegus Monogyna Fruit Extract:

Crataegus Monogyna Fruit Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, lotions, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 5%, depending on the specific formulation and intended benefits. To use products containing this extract, simply apply them to clean, dry skin as directed by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.

4. References:

- Saeedi M, Eslamifar M, Khezri K, et al. The effect of Crataegus monogyna extract on blood pressure in patients with metabolic syndrome. J Res Med Sci. 2014;19(4):332-337.

- Bahadori MB, Dinparast L, Valizadeh J, et al. The effects of Crataegus monogyna extract on antioxidant capacity, lipid peroxidation, and serum lipids in patients with type 2 diabetes. Phytother Res. 2013;27(2):278-281.

- Asgary S, Naderi GH, Sarrafzadegan N, et al. Antihypertensive and antihyperlipidemic effects of Crataegus oxcacantha L. extract: a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial. Phytother Res. 2014;28(10):1431-1438.

Melilotus Officinalis Flower Extract*

Function:

Tocopherol

Other name: Tocopherol; Vit E; vitamin E; α-Tocopherol; Alpha-tocopherol

Function:

1. Definition Tocopherol:

Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Tocopherol:

Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.

Xanthan Gum

Other name: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.

Fragrance

Other name: Fragance; Fragrances; Perfumery; Flavor; Aroma; Fragrance; Perfume

Function: Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant

1. Definition Fragrance:

Fragrance in cosmetics refers to the blend of various aromatic compounds that are added to products to provide a pleasant scent. These compounds can be derived from natural sources such as essential oils or synthetic sources.

2. Use:

Fragrance is commonly used in cosmetics to enhance the sensory experience of using the product. It can help mask any unpleasant odors from other ingredients and create a more luxurious feel. Fragrance is often added to products such as moisturizers, perfumes, shampoos, and body washes.

3. Usage Fragrance:

When using cosmetics containing fragrance, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to certain fragrances. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and storage of the product to ensure the fragrance remains stable and effective.

4. References:

- Steinemann, A. (2019). Fragranced consumer products: exposures and effects from emissions. Air Quality, Atmosphere & Health, 12(6), 643-645.

- Lachenmeier, D. W., & Haltner, E. (2019). Fragrance allergens in household cleaning products. Environmental Science and Pollution Research, 26(15), 15145-15147.

- Basketter, D. A., & Angelini, G. (2019). Fragrance allergens in fine fragrances and cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis, 80(3), 145-147.

Propanediol

Other name: 1,3-Propylene Glycol; 1,3-Dihydroxypropane; 1,3-Propanediol; Zemea Propanediol

Function: Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Propanediol:

Propanediol is a colorless, odorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant, solvent, and emollient. It is a type of glycol that is derived from renewable and sustainable sources such as corn sugar.

2. Use:

Propanediol is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and feel of products. It helps to hydrate the skin by attracting and retaining moisture, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and lotions. Additionally, propanediol can enhance the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products, making them more effective.

3. Usage Propanediol:

Propanediol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow recommended guidelines and precautions. It is recommended to patch test products containing propanediol before applying them to larger areas of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure optimal results and minimize the risk of irritation.

4. References:

- Zhang, X., Qian, H., & Tang, S. (2018). Propanediol enhances skin permeation of quercetin-loaded microemulsion. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy, 44(6), 1010-1016.

- Rigo, L. A., da Silva, D. F., & Sayer, C. (2019). Development and characterization of propanediol-based hydrogels for skin delivery of curcumin. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 132, 73-81.

- Huang, D., Zhang, Y., & Zhang, Z. (2017). Preparation and characterization of propanediol-based microemulsions for topical delivery of astaxanthin. Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology, 38(9), 1317-1323.

Phenethyl Alcohol

Other name: 2-Phenylethanol; Benzeneethanol

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Phenethyl Alcohol:

Phenethyl Alcohol is a naturally occurring compound that is commonly used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics. It has a sweet floral scent and is often used to add a pleasant aroma to various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenethyl Alcohol is primarily used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its pleasant scent. It can be found in a wide range of products such as perfumes, lotions, creams, and hair care products. Additionally, it may also have antimicrobial properties, making it a popular choice for use in skincare products.

3. Usage Phenethyl Alcohol:

When using cosmetics containing Phenethyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions when using products that contain this compound. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product to determine if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- "Phenethyl Alcohol" by The Good Scents Company. Retrieved from: https://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/rw1000041.html

- "Safety Assessment of Phenethyl Alcohol as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review. Retrieved from: https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/phenethyl1115sl.pdf

- "Phenethyl Alcohol" by PubChem. Retrieved from: https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/10349

Undecyl Alcohol

Other name: 1-Hendecanol

Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emollient, Fragrance, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Antiseborrhoeic

1. Definition Undecyl Alcohol:

Undecyl Alcohol, also known as undecanol or undecan-1-ol, is a fatty alcohol derived from natural sources such as coconut oil. It is a colorless liquid with a mild, pleasant odor.

2. Use:

Undecyl Alcohol is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, as well as improve the texture and consistency of formulations.

3. Usage Undecyl Alcohol:

Undecyl Alcohol is typically found in creams, lotions, and hair care products. It is used in small concentrations and is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics. However, as with any ingredient, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines for use and to perform a patch test before applying to the skin.

4. References:

- "Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final report on the safety assessment of Undecyl Alcohol." International Journal of Toxicology. 2008;27(Suppl 2):1-24.

- "Undecyl Alcohol." Cosmetics Info. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/undecyl-alcohol

- "Undecyl Alcohol." PubChem. National Center for Biotechnology Information. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Undecyl-alcohol

Lactic Acid

Other name: 2-hydroxypropanoic Acid; Milk Acid

Function: Fragrance, Humectant, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Exfoliant, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Humectant

1. Definition Lactic Acid:

Lactic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that is naturally found in milk and various fruits. It is a gentle exfoliant that helps to remove dead skin cells, improve skin texture, and promote cell turnover.

2. Use:

Lactic acid is commonly used in skincare products such as cleansers, toners, serums, and masks. It is known for its ability to hydrate the skin, improve skin tone and texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and brighten the complexion. Lactic acid is also effective in treating hyperpigmentation, acne, and sun damage.

3. Usage Lactic Acid:

When using products containing lactic acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase the frequency of use to prevent irritation. It is recommended to use sunscreen daily when using lactic acid products, as they can increase skin sensitivity to the sun. Individuals with sensitive skin should patch test products containing lactic acid before applying them to the entire face.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic dermatology: principles and practice. McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 455.

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Function: Chelating Agent

1. Definition Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate:

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate is a multifunctional ingredient used in cosmetics as a chelating agent and preservative. It is a salt of glutamic acid, a naturally occurring amino acid, and diacetic acid.

2. Use:

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate is commonly used in cosmetic formulations to enhance the stability and efficacy of other ingredients. It helps to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria, thereby extending the shelf life of the product. Additionally, it can also improve the foaming and cleansing properties of certain formulations.

3. Usage Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate:

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2% in cosmetic products. It is water-soluble and can be easily incorporated into various formulations such as shampoos, conditioners, body washes, and creams. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels to ensure the safety and effectiveness of the product.

4. References:

- "Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/tetrasodium-glutamate-diacetate.

- Huang, Y., Zhang, Y., & Chen, X. (2018). "Application of Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate in Cosmetics." Chemical Engineering Transactions, 64, 157-162.

- "Safety Assessment of Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/tetrasodiumglutamatediacetate.pdf.

Lecithin

Other name: phosphatidylcholine; Lecithin; Lecithins; Soy Lecithin

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Lecithin:

Lecithin is a naturally occurring fatty substance that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and emulsifier. It is often derived from soybeans and can also be found in egg yolks and other sources.

2. Use:

Lecithin is used in cosmetics to help improve the texture and consistency of products, as well as to moisturize and soften the skin. It is often included in creams, lotions, and other skincare products to help them spread easily and penetrate the skin effectively.

3. Usage Lecithin:

When using products containing lecithin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with allergies to soy or other sources of lecithin should avoid products containing this ingredient. It is also recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Magdassi, S., & Garti, N. (1999). Lecithin-based emulsions. Current Opinion in Colloid & Interface Science, 4(5), 311-316.

- Barauskas, J., & Nylander, T. (2005). Lecithin-based microemulsions. Langmuir, 21(2), 597-601.

- Komaiko, J. S., & McClements, D. J. (2016). Low-energy formation of edible nanoemulsions: Factors influencing droplet size produced by emulsion phase inversion. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, 434, 8-20.

Citric Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Citric Acid:

Citric acid is a weak organic acid that is naturally found in citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and limes. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, preservative, and exfoliant.

2. Use:

Citric acid is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, which helps to maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is also used as a preservative to extend the shelf life of cosmetics by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, citric acid is used as an exfoliant in skincare products to help slough off dead skin cells and promote cell turnover.

3. Usage Citric Acid:

When using cosmetics containing citric acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. Citric acid can be irritating to the skin, especially in high concentrations, so it is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to avoid using products containing citric acid on broken or irritated skin, as this can further aggravate the condition.

4. References:

- "Citric Acid in Cosmetics: Is It Safe?" by Healthline

- "The Role of Citric Acid in Cosmetics" by The Derm Review

- "Citric Acid: Benefits, Uses, and Side Effects" by Verywell Health

See more: Citric Acid

Hexyl Cinnamal

Other name: Hexylcinnamaldehyde; Hexyl cinnamaldehyde; (2E)-2-benzylideneoctanal

Function: Masking, Fragrance

1. Definition Hexyl Cinnamal:

Hexyl Cinnamal, also known as hexyl cinnamaldehyde or hexylcinnamal, is a synthetic fragrance ingredient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a clear, pale yellow liquid with a sweet, floral scent reminiscent of jasmine.

2. Use:

Hexyl Cinnamal is used as a fragrance ingredient in a wide range of cosmetics, including perfumes, lotions, creams, and hair care products. It is prized for its long-lasting scent and ability to enhance the overall fragrance profile of a product. Hexyl Cinnamal is often used in combination with other floral or fruity notes to create complex and appealing scents.

3. Usage Hexyl Cinnamal:

Hexyl Cinnamal is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used at low concentrations. However, it can cause skin irritation in some individuals, particularly those with sensitive skin. It is important to perform a patch test before using products containing Hexyl Cinnamal to ensure that no adverse reactions occur. Additionally, pregnant women should consult with their healthcare provider before using products containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- "Hexyl Cinnamal" in Cosmeticsinfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/hexyl-cinnamal

- "Safety Assessment of Hexyl Cinnamal" in the International Journal of Toxicology, https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/10.1177/1091581818780985

- "Hexyl Cinnamal" in the European Commission's CosIng Database, https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/index.cfm?fuseaction=search.details_v2&id=30132

Hydroxycitronellal

Function: Masking, Fragrance

1. Definition Hydroxycitronellal:

Hydroxycitronellal is a synthetic fragrance ingredient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a floral scent that is reminiscent of lily of the valley.

2. Use:

Hydroxycitronellal is primarily used as a fragrance ingredient in a variety of cosmetic products, including perfumes, lotions, and soaps. It is valued for its fresh, floral scent and is often used to add a light, airy quality to fragrances.

3. Usage Hydroxycitronellal:

Hydroxycitronellal is considered safe for use in cosmetics when used at concentrations approved by regulatory agencies. However, it is important to note that some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing hydroxycitronellal to ensure that it does not cause any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- "Hydroxycitronellal." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/hydroxycitronellal.

- Smith, J. et al. "Safety Assessment of Hydroxycitronellal and Its Use in Cosmetics." International Journal of Toxicology, vol. 30, no. 6, 2011, pp. 648-657.

- European Commission. "Hydroxycitronellal." European Chemicals Agency, echa.europa.eu/substance-information/-/substanceinfo/100.004.654.

Geraniol

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Tonic

1. Definition Geraniol:

Geraniol is a natural compound that belongs to the family of monoterpenes and is commonly found in essential oils such as rose oil, citronella oil, and geranium oil. It has a sweet, floral scent and is often used in the fragrance industry.

2. Use:

Geraniol is widely used in the cosmetic industry as a fragrance ingredient due to its pleasant aroma. It is commonly found in perfumes, lotions, soaps, and other personal care products to add a floral scent. In addition to its fragrance properties, geraniol also has antioxidant and antimicrobial properties, making it a popular choice in skincare products.

3. Usage Geraniol:

When using products containing geraniol, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitivities and allergies. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to high concentrations of geraniol. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with geraniol, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, pregnant women should consult with their healthcare provider before using products containing geraniol.

4. References:

- Burdock, G. A. (2010). Safety assessment of Geraniol as a food ingredient. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 48(2), 29-34.

- Rastogi, S. C., & Heydorn, S. (2001). Fragrance allergens in commercial products. Contact Dermatitis, 45(5), 221-226.

- Menz, J., & Kistler, A. (2015). Fragrance allergens in cosmetics – a review. Journal of the German Society of Dermatology, 13(6), 625-632.

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Other name: Ascorbyl Pamitate

Function: Masking, Antioxidant

1. Definition Ascorbyl Palmitate:

Ascorbyl Palmitate is a synthetic compound derived from ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) and palmitic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties and ability to boost collagen production.

2. Use:

Ascorbyl Palmitate is used in skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions to help protect the skin from free radicals, reduce signs of aging, and brighten the complexion. It is often included in formulations targeting hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and dullness.

3. Usage Ascorbyl Palmitate:

Ascorbyl Palmitate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.3% to 3%. It is stable in both water-based and oil-based formulations, making it versatile for different types of skincare products. It is best used in conjunction with other antioxidants like Vitamin E to enhance its effectiveness.

Precautions: While generally considered safe for topical use, some individuals may experience skin irritation or sensitivity to Ascorbyl Palmitate. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is important to store products with Ascorbyl Palmitate in a cool, dark place to prevent degradation and maintain potency.

4. References:

- Telang, P. S. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian dermatology online journal, 4(2), 143–146.

- Pullar, J. M., Carr, A. C., & Vissers, M. C. M. (2017). The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients, 9(8), 866.

- Campos, P. M. B. G. M., & Gonçalves, G. M. (2008). Skin penetration and antioxidant effectiveness of a liquid crystalline vehicle for l-ascorbic acid. International journal of cosmetic science, 30(6), 413–421.

Citronellol

Function: Masking, Fragrance

1. Definition Citronellol:

Citronellol is a naturally occurring acyclic monoterpenoid alcohol found in essential oils such as rose, geranium, and citronella. It is known for its pleasant floral aroma and is commonly used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Citronellol is primarily used as a fragrance ingredient in a wide range of cosmetic products, including perfumes, lotions, creams, and soaps. Its sweet, floral scent is often used to add a fresh and uplifting aroma to skincare and haircare products.

3. Usage Citronellol:

Citronellol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it can cause skin irritation in some individuals, especially those with sensitive skin. It is important to use products containing citronellol as directed and to perform a patch test before applying them to larger areas of the skin. Additionally, products containing citronellol should be stored in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to prevent degradation of the ingredient.

4. References:

- Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). (2013). Opinion on citronellol. European Commission.

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2008). Safety assessment of citronellol, citronellal, and hydroxycitronellal. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(1), 21-44.

- Fragrance Materials Association. (2019). Citronellol safety assessment. FMA.

Benzyl Salicylate

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Uv Absorber

1. Definition Benzyl Salicylate:

Benzyl Salicylate is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint floral odor. It is a synthetic compound commonly used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its pleasant scent reminiscent of jasmine and lily of the valley.

2. Use:

Benzyl Salicylate is primarily used as a fragrance ingredient in a wide range of cosmetic products, including perfumes, lotions, creams, and hair care products. It is valued for its ability to impart a sweet, floral aroma to formulations and enhance the overall sensory experience of the product.

3. Usage Benzyl Salicylate:

When using Benzyl Salicylate in cosmetics, it is important to adhere to recommended usage levels to ensure the safety and efficacy of the product. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has assessed Benzyl Salicylate as safe for use in cosmetics when used at concentrations up to 5%. However, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Benzyl Salicylate, especially for individuals with sensitive skin or known allergies.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2013). Safety Assessment of Benzyl Salicylate as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/benzylsal0513.pdf

- European Commission. (2018). CosIng - Cosmetic Ingredients Database. Retrieved from https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/index.cfm?fuseaction=search.details_v2&id=19285

- Personal Care Products Council. (n.d.). Benzyl Salicylate. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/ingredient-monographs/benzyl-salicylate/

Limonene

Other name: L-limonene; D-limonene

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Deodorant

1. Definition Limonene:

Limonene is a natural compound found in the peels of citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and grapefruits. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its fresh, citrusy scent.

2. Use:

Limonene is often used in cosmetics to provide a pleasant scent to products such as perfumes, lotions, and skincare items. It is also utilized as a solvent in some formulations and can help to enhance the absorption of other ingredients into the skin.

3. Usage Limonene:

When using products containing limonene, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitization and irritation. Some individuals may be allergic to limonene, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. It is also advisable to avoid using products with high concentrations of limonene on sensitive or broken skin.

4. References:

- Burdock, G. A. (2010). Fenaroli's handbook of flavor ingredients. CRC Press.

- Reifenrath, W. G., & Chirico, S. (2012). Chemical composition and fragrance evaluation of essential oils from Citrus unshiu. Journal of essential oil research, 24(1), 61-69.

- Jäger, W., Buchbauer, G., Jirovetz, L., Fritzer, M., & Woidich, A. (1992). Percutaneous absorption of essential oils: influence of penetration enhancers. Journal of pharmaceutical sciences, 81(3), 254-258.