Full ingredients list Biopharmacieaa Hydew

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1	A	Hydrolyzed Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Absorbent)
1	A	Hyaluronic Acid (Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Moisturising)	Promotes Wound Healing
1	A	Niacinamide (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing)	Anti Aging Brightening
1	A	Trehalose (Humectant, Moisturising, Flavoring Agent)
1		Ceramide Np	Anti Aging
1		Aqua (Solvent)
2	B	Sodium Polyacrylate (Skin Conditioning, Absorbent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding, Film Forming, Hair Fixing, Viscosity Controlling, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Emollient)
1		Xylitol (Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent)
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1		Caprylic Acid (Masking, Perfuming, Fragrance, Emulsifying)
1	A	Glyceryl Stearate (Emollient, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Ceramide Ap (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging
1	B	Betaine (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Antistatic Agent)
1	A	Pullulan (Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming)
1		Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract (Skin Conditioning, Exclusive)
2 3	A	Tocopheryl Acetate (Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)	Anti Aging
1	A	Cholesterol (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Stabilising)
		Ceramide EOP (Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning)
1	A	Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Film Forming, Adhesive)
1		Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate (Emulsifying, Surfactant)
6		Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (Uv Absorber, Uv Filter)	UV Protection Bad for sensitive skin
2		Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Uv Absorber, Uv Filter)	UV Protection
1		Phytosphingosine (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Phospholipids (Skin Conditioning)
		1.3-Butylene Glycol
1	B	Methyl Undecylenate (Emollient)

Hydrolyzed Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Absorbent

1. Definition Hydrolyzed Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum:

Hydrolyzed Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum is a natural ingredient derived from the seeds of the Tara tree (Caesalpinia spinosa) native to Peru. It is a hydrolyzed form of the plant gum, which is broken down into smaller molecules for better absorption and effectiveness in cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Hydrolyzed Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum is commonly used in cosmetics for its hydrating and skin conditioning properties. It helps to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of wrinkles, and provide a smooth and supple texture to the skin. This ingredient is often found in moisturizers, serums, and anti-aging products to help nourish and rejuvenate the skin.

3. Usage Hydrolyzed Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum:

When using products containing Hydrolyzed Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, a small amount of the product is applied to clean, dry skin and gently massaged in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivity.

4. References:

- Pons-Guiraud, A. (2018). Moisturizers for acne: what are their constituents? Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 32(2), 18-23.

- Lintner, K., & Mas-Chamberlin, C. (2016). Hyaluronic acid and its derivatives in cosmetics: a review. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 38(1), 1-6.

- Rodrigues, L. M., & Granger, C. (2017). Antioxidant and anti-aging properties of plant-derived natural ingredients in skin care products. Current Pharmaceutical Biotechnology, 18(10), 837-845.

Hyaluronic Acid

Other name: Hyaluronate; Hyaluronic Acid; Biohyaluronic acid

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Moisturising

1. Definition Hyaluronic Acid:

Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring substance in the human body that helps to retain moisture and keep skin hydrated. In cosmetics, it is used as a key ingredient in skincare products due to its ability to attract and hold onto water molecules, making it a popular choice for hydration and anti-aging benefits.

2. Use:

Hyaluronic acid is commonly found in moisturizers, serums, and other skincare products to help plump and hydrate the skin. It is known for its ability to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a smoother, more youthful complexion. Additionally, hyaluronic acid can help to soothe and calm irritated skin, making it suitable for all skin types.

3. Usage Hyaluronic Acid:

When using skincare products containing hyaluronic acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, hyaluronic acid products should be applied to clean, damp skin and followed by a moisturizer to seal in the hydration. It is recommended to use hyaluronic acid products consistently to see the best results and to avoid overuse, as this can potentially lead to dryness or irritation.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

See more: Unlocking the Secrets: Hyaluronic Acid in Skincare

Niacinamide

Other name: Nicotinic acid amide; Nicotinamide

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing

1. Definition Niacinamide:

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that is commonly used in skincare products for its various benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Niacinamide is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, and dullness. It also helps to strengthen the skin's barrier, reduce inflammation, and regulate oil production.

3. Usage Niacinamide:

Niacinamide can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is typically applied topically to the skin and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing niacinamide.

Precautions: While niacinamide is generally considered safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience mild irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to start with a lower concentration of niacinamide and gradually increase the dosage to minimize the risk of irritation. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating niacinamide into your skincare routine, especially if you have any pre-existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Schagen, S. K., Zampeli, V. A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 298-307.

- Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7), 860-865.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.

See more: Understanding Niacinamide: All about "Skincare Superstar"

Trehalose

Function: Humectant, Moisturising, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition Trehalose:

Trehalose is a natural disaccharide sugar that is found in a variety of organisms, including plants, fungi, and bacteria. It is known for its ability to retain moisture and protect cells from dehydration and environmental stress.

2. Use:

Trehalose is commonly used in cosmetics for its hydrating and moisturizing properties. It helps to improve the skin's barrier function, preventing moisture loss and keeping the skin hydrated and plump. Trehalose also has antioxidant properties, which can help to protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals and environmental pollutants.

3. Usage Trehalose:

Trehalose is typically found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and masks. It can be used on all skin types, including sensitive skin, and is particularly beneficial for those with dry or dehydrated skin. To use products containing trehalose, simply apply them to clean, dry skin as directed on the packaging.

4. References:

- Yoon, H. S., Cho, H. H., Kim, M. H., & Lee, S. R. (2019). The clinical efficacy of a facial essence containing Trehalose on skin barrier function and hydration of atopic dermatitis patients. Annals of Dermatology, 31(2), 206-211.

- Chen, L., Zhang, Z., Chen, W., & Zhang, Z. (2018). Trehalose, sucrose and raffinose are novel activators of autophagy in human keratinocytes through an mTOR-independent pathway. Scientific Reports, 8(1), 1-11.

- Kim, J. H., Baek, S. H., Lee, H. J., & Kim, M. R. (2015). Trehalose prevents adipocyte hypertrophy and mitigates insulin resistance. Nutrition Research and Practice, 9(3), 249-256.

Ceramide Np

Other name: Ceramide 3; Ceramide III

Function:

1. Definition Ceramide Np:

Ceramide Np, also known as Ceramide 3, is a type of lipid molecule that is naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, the stratum corneum. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin's barrier function, helping to retain moisture, protect against environmental aggressors, and prevent water loss.

2. Use:

Ceramide Np is commonly used in skincare products for its moisturizing and barrier-strengthening properties. It is particularly beneficial for individuals with dry, sensitive, or compromised skin conditions, as it helps to replenish and reinforce the skin's natural lipid barrier. Ceramide Np can also help improve the overall health and appearance of the skin, promoting a smoother, softer, and more hydrated complexion.

3. Usage Ceramide Np:

Ceramide Np can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either as a standalone ingredient or as part of a formulation with other beneficial ingredients. To use ceramide Np effectively, apply a small amount of the product to clean, dry skin, gently massaging it in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to follow up with a sunscreen during the day to protect the skin from UV damage.

4. References:

- Choi MJ, Maibach HI. Role of ceramides in barrier function of healthy and diseased skin. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(4):215-223.

- Park JH, Lee JH, Lee JH. Topical application of ceramide NP in the treatment of mild to moderate atopic dermatitis: a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study. Ann Dermatol. 2012;24(2):176-185.

- Lee HJ, Lee HE, Ahn KJ, An IS, An S. Ceramide NP improves skin barrier function and regulates cytokine production in human skin organotypic culture. Ann Dermatol. 2015;27(5):499-511.

Aqua

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Sodium Polyacrylate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Absorbent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding, Film Forming, Hair Fixing, Viscosity Controlling, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Emollient

1. Definition Sodium Polyacrylate:

Sodium Polyacrylate is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer. It is a water-absorbent material that can hold up to 300 times its weight in water, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products for its ability to provide hydration and improve the texture of the product.

2. Use:

Sodium Polyacrylate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, serums, and masks. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the spreadability of the product, and enhance its overall performance. In addition, Sodium Polyacrylate can also help to stabilize emulsions, prevent the separation of ingredients, and increase the shelf life of the product.

3. Usage Sodium Polyacrylate:

When using products containing Sodium Polyacrylate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product for the first time and discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- "Polyacrylates in Cosmetics." CosmeticsInfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polyacrylates.

- "Sodium Polyacrylate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/sodium-polyacrylate.

- "Safety Assessment of Polyacrylate Polymers as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/polyacrylates.pdf.

Xylitol

Other name: D-Xylitol

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition Xylitol:

Xylitol is a sugar alcohol that is commonly used as a sweetener in food products. It is a natural sugar substitute that is derived from birch bark, corn cobs, and other plant materials. Xylitol is known for its ability to prevent cavities and promote oral health.

2. Use:

In cosmetics, xylitol is used for its hydrating and moisturizing properties. It is often found in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums. Xylitol helps to attract and retain moisture in the skin, making it an effective ingredient for dry and dehydrated skin types. Additionally, xylitol has soothing properties that can help to calm irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Xylitol:

When using cosmetics containing xylitol, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Xylitol is generally considered safe for topical use, but it is always a good idea to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. Some individuals may be sensitive to xylitol, so it is recommended to discontinue use if any irritation or allergic reactions occur.

4. References:

- Choi, S. J., Lee, S. N., Kim, K., & Kim, D. S. (2018). Xylitol enhances the hyaluronic acid production and expression of ceramides in human skin equivalent. Biomolecules & Therapeutics, 26(4), 377-382.

- Suresh, S., & Pradeep, S. (2014). Xylitol in preventing dental caries: A systematic review and meta-analyses. Journal of Natural Science, Biology, and Medicine, 5(1), 15-25.

- Lee, J. H., Park, Y. D., Jeong, S. H., & Do, J. H. (2017). Xylitol inhibits inflammatory cytokine expression induced by lipopolysaccharide from Porphyromonas gingivalis. Clinical Oral Investigations, 21(8), 2443-2450.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Caprylic Acid

Other name: C-8; Caprylic acid

Function: Masking, Perfuming, Fragrance, Emulsifying

1. Definition Caprylic Acid:

Caprylic Acid, also known as octanoic acid, is a medium-chain fatty acid derived from coconut oil or palm kernel oil. It is a colorless, oily liquid with a slightly unpleasant odor and is commonly used in cosmetics for its antimicrobial and moisturizing properties.

2. Use:

Caprylic Acid is used in cosmetics as an emollient to soften and smooth the skin. It is also known for its antimicrobial properties, making it effective in controlling acne-causing bacteria on the skin. Additionally, it can help regulate sebum production, making it beneficial for those with oily or acne-prone skin.

3. Usage Caprylic Acid:

Caprylic Acid is typically found in skincare products such as cleansers, moisturizers, and acne treatments. It is generally safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow the recommended usage guidelines provided by the manufacturer. As with any new skincare ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Caprylic Acid to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Abo-Salem OM, El-Edel RH, Harisa GI, El-Hanafy AA. "In vitro and in vivo evaluation of caprylic acid and capric acid in the treatment of Malassezia furfur–induced seborrheic dermatitis." Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy. 2014;40(5): 715-722.

- Rele AS, Mohile RB. "Effect of mineral oil, sunflower oil, and coconut oil on prevention of hair damage." Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2003;54(2): 175-192.

- Kim J, Kim J. "Antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects of capric acid against Propionibacterium acnes: A comparative study with lauric acid." Journal of Dermatological Science. 2018;91(3): 241-243.

Glyceryl Stearate

Function: Emollient, Emulsifying

1. Definition Glyceryl Stearate:

Glyceryl Stearate is a fatty acid derived from glycerin and stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, improve the texture of the product, and stabilize the formulation.

3. Usage Glyceryl Stearate:

When using products containing Glyceryl Stearate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Glyceryl Stearate, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by The Personal Care Products Council

- "Safety Assessment of Glyceryl Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate SE as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by Paula's Choice Skincare

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate

Other name: Potassium Azeloyl Diglycina; AZELOGLICINA; Potassium Azelaoyl Diglycinate

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate:

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate is a water-soluble derivative of azelaic acid, a naturally occurring acid found in grains like barley, wheat, and rye. It is commonly used in skincare products for its brightening, exfoliating, and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate is primarily used in cosmetics and skincare products as a skin brightening agent. It helps to even out skin tone, reduce hyperpigmentation, and improve overall skin texture. Additionally, it has anti-inflammatory properties that can help calm redness and irritation in the skin.

3. Usage Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate:

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate is typically found in serums, creams, and lotions targeted towards individuals looking to improve the appearance of their skin. It can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if you have sensitive skin or any concerns about using this ingredient.

4. References:

- Arif T. Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2015;8:455-61. doi: 10.2147/CCID.S84765. Epub 2015 Aug 7. PMID: 26347269; PMCID: PMC4554394.

- Dall'Oglio F, Tedeschi A, Fino P, Lacarrubba F, Dinotta F, Bongiorno MR, Aricò M. A new topical azelaic acid foam: treatment for acne. Expert Opin Pharmacother. 2013 Nov;14(16):2271-9. doi: 10.1517/14656566.2013.844174. Epub 2013 Oct 9. PMID: 24102681.

- Grimes PE. The safety and efficacy of salicylic acid chemical peels in darker racial-ethnic groups. Dermatol Surg. 1999 Jan;25(1):18-22. doi: 10.1046/j.1524-4725.1999.08164.x. PMID: 9935084.

Ceramide Ap

Other name: Ceramide 6 II; 1,3,4-Octadecanetriol, 2-(2-Hydroxy) Stearamide

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ceramide Ap:

Ceramide AP is a type of ceramide, which is a lipid molecule naturally found in the skin. Ceramides play a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier and preventing moisture loss, making them essential for healthy and hydrated skin.

2. Use:

Ceramide AP is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its skin-replenishing and barrier-strengthening properties. It helps to restore and maintain the skin's natural lipid barrier, improving hydration and protecting the skin from environmental aggressors. Ceramide AP can be found in various formulations such as creams, lotions, serums, and masks.

3. Usage Ceramide Ap:

When using skincare products containing Ceramide AP, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, Ceramide AP products are applied to clean, dry skin and massaged gently until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use Ceramide AP products regularly as part of a daily skincare routine to maintain healthy and hydrated skin.

4. References:

- Choi, S. J., Lee, S. N., Kim, K. T., Kim, H. J., Lee, S. J., & Lee, D. R. (2017). Ceramide AP inhibits ultraviolet-induced melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells. International journal of molecular medicine, 39(1), 149-156.

- Kim, H. J., Yoo, H. S., Kim, J. C., & Cho, C. S. (2008). Ceramide AP inhibits UVB-induced apoptosis in human keratinocytes. Journal of dermatological science, 52(2), 166-169.

- Jeong, S. K., Kim, J. S., Choi, H. R., & Kim, K. M. (2016). Ceramide AP inhibits adipocyte differentiation in 3T3-L1 cells. International journal of molecular medicine, 37(6), 1668-1674.

Betaine

Other name: Trimethylglycine

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Betaine:

Betaine is a naturally occurring compound that is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and conditioning properties. It is derived from sugar beets and is known for its ability to attract and retain moisture, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Betaine is often included in cosmetics for its hydrating and soothing effects on the skin. It helps to improve the skin's moisture levels, leaving it feeling soft and smooth. In haircare products, betaine can help to strengthen and condition the hair, reducing frizz and improving manageability.

3. Usage Betaine:

Betaine can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, cleansers, shampoos, and conditioners. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and is considered safe for most skin types. However, as with any new ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before using a product containing betaine to ensure that it does not cause any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Choudhury, H., & Pandey, M. (2013). Betaine in cosmetics. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 35(2), 157-161.

- Kim, J., & Lee, I. (2016). Moisturizing effects of betaine-containing cosmetics on human skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(3), 212-217.

- Yoon, H. S., & Lee, S. J. (2018). Betaine as a conditioning agent in haircare products. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(5), 321-327.

Pullulan

Function: Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming

1. Definition Pullulan:

Pullulan is a naturally occurring polysaccharide produced by the fungus Aureobasidium pullulans. It is a water-soluble compound that has film-forming properties, making it a popular ingredient in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Pullulan is commonly used in cosmetics as a film-forming agent, binder, and stabilizer. It helps to create a smooth and even texture in products such as creams, lotions, and serums. Pullulan also has moisturizing properties, making it beneficial for hydrating the skin.

3. Usage Pullulan:

Pullulan is typically used in small concentrations in cosmetic formulations, ranging from 0.1% to 5%. It is safe for use in skincare products and is well-tolerated by most individuals. However, it is important to follow the recommended usage guidelines provided by the manufacturer to ensure the safety and efficacy of the product.

4. References:

- Kim, M. K., Lee, H. S., & Kim, E. K. (2015). Pullulan: Cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications. Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, 41(3), 181-187.

- Wang, H., Chen, W., Li, D., & Yin, Y. (2014). Application of pullulan in cosmetics. Fine Chemicals, 31(5), 441-444.

- Gao, Y., Zhang, X., & Wu, Y. (2018). Research progress on the application of pullulan in cosmetics. Chemical Industry and Engineering Progress, 37(4), 1405-1412.

Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Exclusive

1. Definition Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract:

Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract is a natural ingredient derived from apples. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that help nourish and protect the skin.

2. Use:

Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, anti-aging, and brightening properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and even out skin tone.

3. Usage Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract:

Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5%. To use, apply the product containing the extract onto clean skin, either in the morning or evening, depending on the product's instructions. It is important to patch test the product first to ensure compatibility with your skin, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Lee, S. H., Lee, S. Y., Son, D. J., Lee, H., Yoo, H. S., Song, S., . . . Hong, J. T. (2013). Inhibitory effect of ursolic acid purified from Origanum majorana L. on the acetylcholinesterase. Molecules, 18(7), 8409-8416.

- Kim, J. H., Kim, Y. H., Song, G. G., & Park, J. J. (2016). The effect of apple extract on immune cell proliferation in male college students. Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition, 45(5), 731-736.

- Kim, M. J., Lee, H. J., & Kim, J. K. (2018). Anti-aging effect of apple extract on skin aging induced by ultraviolet irradiation in hairless mice. Journal of the Korean Society of Cosmetology, 24(3), 513-522.

Tocopheryl Acetate

Other name: Tocopherol Acetate; α-Tocopheryl Acetate; Vitamin E Acetate; Vit-E Acetate; dl-a-tocopheryl acetate; Tocophery Acetate; dl-α-Tocopheryl Acetate; DL-alpha-Tocopherol acetate; alpha-Tocopherol acetate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Tocopheryl Acetate:

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products. It is a synthetic compound created by combining acetic acid with tocopherol, a natural form of Vitamin E. Tocopheryl Acetate is known for its antioxidant properties, which help protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopheryl Acetate is often included in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and anti-aging benefits. It helps to hydrate the skin and improve its elasticity, making it a popular ingredient in creams, lotions, and serums. Tocopheryl Acetate also has soothing properties that can help calm irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Tocopheryl Acetate:

When using products containing Tocopheryl Acetate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and apply the product as directed. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. It is recommended to store products containing Tocopheryl Acetate in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain its stability and effectiveness.

4. References:

- Cosmetics Info. (n.d.). Tocopheryl Acetate. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/tocopheryl-acetate

- Paula's Choice. (n.d.). Vitamin E for Skin. Retrieved from https://www.paulaschoice.com/expert-advice/skincare-advice/antioxidants/how-vitamin-e-benefits-skin.html

- Healthline. (2021). The Benefits of Vitamin E for Your Skin. Retrieved from https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/vitamin-e-for-skin#benefits

Cholesterol

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Stabilising

1. Definition Cholesterol:

Cholesterol is a type of lipid that is naturally found in the skin and plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin's barrier function. In cosmetics, cholesterol is often used as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Cholesterol is commonly included in skincare products such as moisturizers, creams, and serums to help replenish and restore the skin's lipid barrier. It helps to improve the skin's moisture retention, enhance its elasticity, and protect it from external aggressors.

3. Usage Cholesterol:

When using skincare products containing cholesterol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to apply the product to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.

4. References:

- Katsambas, A.D., and Alexoudi, I. (2010). Cholesterol and skin care: facts, myths and controversies. Clinics in Dermatology, 28(4), 393-402.

- Rawlings, A.V., and Harding, C.R. (2004). Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(S1), 43-48.

- Draelos, Z.D. (2000). The science behind skin care: moisturizers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(1), 22-26.

Ceramide EOP

Other name: Ceramide 9

Function: Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Ceramide EOP:

Ceramide EOP, also known as Ceramide 1, is a type of lipid molecule that is naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, the stratum corneum. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier function and preventing moisture loss.

2. Use:

Ceramide EOP is commonly used in skincare products for its moisturizing and barrier-strengthening properties. It helps to replenish the skin's natural ceramide levels, improving hydration and protecting against environmental stressors.

3. Usage Ceramide EOP:

Ceramide EOP can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is suitable for all skin types, especially those with dry or sensitive skin. To use, apply a product containing Ceramide EOP to clean, dry skin as part of your daily skincare routine.

Precautions: While Ceramide EOP is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, it is always recommended to do a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin, especially if you have sensitive skin or are prone to allergies. If any irritation occurs, discontinue use and consult a dermatologist.

4. References:

- Cho, Y., Kim, J., Oh, S., & Lee, J. (2018). The role of ceramides in skin health and cosmetic science. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(1), 30-37.

- Ghadially, R., Brown, B. E., Sequeira-Martin, S. M., Feingold, K. R., & Elias, P. M. (1995). The aged epidermal permeability barrier: structural, functional, and lipid biochemical abnormalities in humans and a senescent murine model. Journal of Clinical Investigation, 95(5), 2281-2290.

- Park, K. (2017). Role of ceramides in barrier function of healthy and diseased skin. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 30(4), 178-186.

Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum

Other name: Tara Gum

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Film Forming, Adhesive

1. Definition Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum:

Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum, also known as tara gum, is a natural gum obtained from the seeds of the Caesalpinia spinosa tree, which is native to Peru. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, stabilizer, and emulsifier.

2. Use:

Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum is often used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products. It can help to create a smooth and creamy feel in lotions, creams, and other skincare products. Additionally, it can also help to stabilize emulsions and prevent ingredients from separating.

3. Usage Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum:

When using Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines for usage. Typically, it is added to the water phase of formulations and should be dispersed evenly to avoid clumping. It is also important to note that Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- Gómez-Mascaraque LG, Sánchez G, López-Rubio A. (2019). "Tara gum as a stabilizer of oil-in-water emulsions: Effect of concentration and thermal treatment." Food Hydrocolloids, 87, 958-967.

- Salvia-Trujillo L, Rojas-Graü MA, Soliva-Fortuny R, Martín-Belloso O. (2015). "Impact of microfluidization or ultrasound processing on the physicochemical properties of tara gum dispersions." Food Hydrocolloids, 43, 595-603.

- Guo M, Chen J, Huang J, Zhang X, Zhang H, Wang C. (2019). "Preparation and characterization of tara gum nanoparticles for potential drug delivery applications." Carbohydrate Polymers, 222, 115007.

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate:

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate is a natural ingredient derived from the reaction of lactic acid and lauric acid, commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant.

2. Use:

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate is primarily used in cosmetics and personal care products as an emulsifier, helping to mix oil and water-based ingredients together. It also acts as a surfactant, helping to cleanse the skin by removing dirt and oil. Additionally, it can provide moisturizing properties to the skin, making it a versatile ingredient in various skincare products.

3. Usage Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate:

When using products containing Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing this ingredient to a larger area of skin. If any irritation occurs, it is recommended to discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate" by The Derm Review

- "Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate" by Cosmetics Info

- "Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate in Cosmetics" by Personal Care Council

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

Other name: Octinoxate; Octylmethoxy Cinnamate; Octyl Methoxycinnamate; 2-Ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate; 2-Ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate; Parsol MCX; Escalol 557; Eusolex 2292; Uvinul 3088; Tinosorb OMC

Function: Uv Absorber, Uv Filter

1. Definition Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate:

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, also known as Octyl Methoxycinnamate, is a chemical compound commonly used in cosmetics and sunscreens as a UV filter. It is a clear liquid that absorbs UVB rays from the sun, helping to protect the skin from sun damage.

2. Use:

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate is primarily used in cosmetics and skincare products as a UV filter to protect the skin from the harmful effects of UV radiation. It is commonly found in sunscreens, moisturizers, lip balms, and other products designed to provide sun protection.

3. Usage Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate:

When using products containing Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Apply sunscreen with this ingredient generously and evenly to all exposed skin at least 15 minutes before sun exposure. Reapply every two hours or more frequently if swimming or sweating. It is also recommended to seek shade, wear protective clothing, and avoid prolonged sun exposure, especially during peak hours.

4. References:

- Klammer H, Schlecht C, Wuttke W, Schmutzler C, Gotthardt I, Köhrle J, Jarry H. Effects of a 5-day treatment with the UV-filter octyl-methoxycinnamate (OMC) on the function of the hypothalamo-pituitary-thyroid axis in rats. Toxicology. 2007;238(2-3):192-9. doi: 10.1016/j.tox.2007.06.017. Epub 2007 Jul 3. PMID: 17658655.

- Schlumpf M, Cotton B, Conscience M, Haller V, Steinmann B, Lichtensteiger W. In vitro and in vivo estrogenicity of UV screens. Environ Health Perspect. 2001 Mar;109(3):239-44. doi: 10.1289/ehp.01109239. PMID: 11333190; PMCID: PMC1240267.

- Janjua NR, Mogensen B, Andersson AM, Petersen JH, Henriksen M, Skakkebaek NE, Wulf HC. Systemic absorption of the sunscreens benzophenone-3, octyl-methoxycinnamate, and 3-(4-methyl-benzylidene) camphor after whole-body topical application and reproductive hormone levels in humans. J Invest Dermatol. 2004 May;122(5):1257-61. doi: 10.1111/j.0022-202X.2004.22603.x. PMID: 15140223.

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane

Other name: Avobenzone; Eusolex 9020; Parsol 1789; Avobenzene; Avobezone

Function: Uv Absorber, Uv Filter

1. Definition Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane:

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, also known as Avobenzone, is a common organic compound used in sunscreens and cosmetics to provide protection against UVA rays. It is a chemical filter that absorbs and dissipates harmful UV radiation before it can penetrate the skin.

2. Use:

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane is primarily used as a key ingredient in sunscreens to protect the skin from UVA radiation, which is known to cause premature aging, wrinkles, and skin cancer. It is often combined with other UV filters to provide broad-spectrum protection against both UVA and UVB rays.

3. Usage Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane:

When using products containing Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, it is important to apply them generously and evenly to all exposed skin at least 15 minutes before sun exposure. Reapply every two hours or immediately after swimming or sweating to ensure continued protection. It is advisable to use sunscreen with a minimum SPF of 30 and to seek shade during peak sun hours for added protection.

4. References:

- Kullavanijaya, P., & Lim, H. W. (2005). Photoprotection. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 52(6), 937-958.

- Matta, M. K., Florian, J., Zusterzeel, R., Pilli, N. R., Patel, V., Volpe, D. A., ... & Stratman, E. J. (2019). Effect of sunscreen application under maximal use conditions on plasma concentration of sunscreen active ingredients: a randomized clinical trial. JAMA, 321(21), 2082-2091.

- Autier, P., Boniol, M., Dore, J. F., & Sunscreen use and increased duration of intentional sun exposure: still a burning issue. International Journal of Cancer, 121(1), 1-5.

Phytosphingosine

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Phytosphingosine:

Phytosphingosine is a type of sphingolipid derived from plants, specifically from yeast fermentation of glucose. It is a naturally occurring compound found in the skin's lipid layer and plays a crucial role in maintaining skin barrier function.

2. Use:

Phytosphingosine is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and moisturizing properties. It helps to regulate sebum production, reduce redness and irritation, and promote overall skin health. Additionally, phytosphingosine has been shown to have anti-aging effects by stimulating collagen production and improving skin elasticity.

3. Usage Phytosphingosine:

Phytosphingosine can be found in various skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% and can be applied topically to the skin. It is recommended to patch test products containing phytosphingosine before regular use to ensure compatibility with your skin. It is also important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for optimal results.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Park, K. (2014). Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology. CRC Press.

- Lupo, M. P. (2001). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic Therapy, 14(4), 279-285.

Phospholipids

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Phospholipids:

Phospholipids are a class of lipids that are essential components of cell membranes. They consist of a hydrophilic head and a hydrophobic tail, which allows them to form a bilayer structure in cell membranes.

2. Use:

Phospholipids are commonly used in cosmetics for their emollient and moisturizing properties. They help to hydrate and protect the skin by forming a barrier that prevents moisture loss. Additionally, phospholipids can improve the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products.

3. Usage Phospholipids:

When using cosmetics containing phospholipids, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also advisable to consult with a dermatologist if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Rawlings, A. V. (2006). Trends in stratum corneum research and the management of dry skin conditions. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 28(3), 167-173.

- Kim, S., Kim, H. J., Park, H. J., & Kim, S. Y. (2014). Phospholipids in cosmetic: Friends or foes. Korean Journal of Chemical Engineering, 31(10), 1739-1748.

- Bouwstra, J. A., & Ponec, M. (2006). The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state. Biochimica et Biophysica Acta (BBA) - Biomembranes, 1758(12), 2080-2095.

1.3-Butylene Glycol

Function:

Methyl Undecylenate

Function: Emollient

1. Definition Methyl Undecylenate:

Methyl Undecylenate is a clear liquid compound that is commonly used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient, masking agent, and skin conditioning agent. It is derived from castor oil and has a mild, fruity odor.

2. Use:

Methyl Undecylenate is used in cosmetics for its ability to impart a pleasant scent to products. It is often added to perfumes, lotions, and creams to enhance their fragrance profile. Additionally, it can act as a masking agent, helping to neutralize any unwanted odors in a formulation. Methyl Undecylenate also has skin conditioning properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

3. Usage Methyl Undecylenate:

When using Methyl Undecylenate in cosmetics, it is important to follow recommended guidelines for safe handling and usage. It should be stored in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and heat sources. Care should be taken to avoid contact with eyes, skin, and mucous membranes. If irritation occurs, discontinue use and seek medical advice. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Methyl Undecylenate to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Methyl Undecylenate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/methyl-undecylenate.

- "Safety Assessment of Methyl Undecylenate as Used in Cosmetics." Personal Care Products Council, www.personalcarecouncil.org/resource/safety-assessment-of-methyl-undecylenate-as-used-in-cosmetics/.

- "Methyl Undecylenate." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/methyl-undecylenate.