Full ingredients list Bonajour Radiance Tone-Up Essence

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Morus Alba Bark Extract (Skin Conditioning)	Brightening Good for dry skin
1		Water (Solvent)
1 2	A	Dipropylene Glycol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1	A	Niacinamide (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing)	Anti Aging Brightening
1	B	Cetyl Ethylhexanoate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	1,2-Hexanediol (Solvent)
		Oryza Sativa (Rice) Callus Culture Extract
1		Glutathione (Fragrance, Reducing)	Brightening
1		Rumex Occidentalis Extract (Skin Conditioning, Soothing)
1		Leucojum Aestivum Bulb Extract (Skin Protecting)
		Eugenia Caryophyllus (Clove) Bud Extract
		Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23 (Skin Conditioning)
		Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Bud Extract
1		Madecassoside (Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)	Promotes Wound Healing
1		Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract (Skin Conditioning)
		Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
		Lactobacillus/Panax Ginseng Root Ferment Filtrate
		Saccharomyces/Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-yuen Seed Ferment Filtrate (Skin Conditioning)
1		Saccharomyces/Potato Extract Ferment Filtrate (Humectant)
1		Ceramide 3 (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging
1	A	Biosaccharide Gum 1 (Skin Conditioning)
1	B	Cetearyl Olivate (Hair Conditioning)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Sorbitan Olivate (Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1	A	Butylene Glycol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents)	Good for dry skin
1	A	Lysolecithin (Surfactant, Emulsifying)
1		Althaea Rosea Root Extract (Humectant)
1 3	B	Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Extract (Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)	Good for sensitive skin
1		Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Pulsatilla Koreana Extract (Skin Conditioning)
		Usnea Barbata (Lichen) Extract
1		Phytosqualane
1		Macadamia Ternifolia (Macadamia) Seed Oil (Emollient)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Glyceryl Stearate (Emollient, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Panthenol (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)	Good for dry skin Promotes Wound Healing
1		Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate (Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising)
1		Dicaprylyl Ether (Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1		Polyglyceryl 10 Dilaurate (Surfactant)
1	A	Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate (Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent)
1	A	Carbomer (Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming)
1	A	Arginine (Skin Conditioning, Masking, Fragrance, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning)
1		Sodium Levulinate (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Glyceryl Caprylate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1	A	Caprylyl Glycol (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Pentylene Glycol (Solvent, Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Alpha-Bisabolol	Brightening Promotes Wound Healing
1	A	Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Antioxidant)	Anti Aging Brightening
1		Sodium Anisate (Antimicrobial, Flavoring Agent)
2	A	Ethylhexylglycerin (Deodorant, Skin Conditioning)
1		Aniba Rosaeodora (Rosewood) Wood Oil

Morus Alba Bark Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Morus Alba Bark Extract:

Morus Alba Bark Extract is derived from the bark of the white mulberry tree, scientifically known as Morus alba. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Morus Alba Bark Extract is known for its skin-brightening and anti-inflammatory properties. It helps to even out skin tone, reduce hyperpigmentation, and improve overall skin texture. Additionally, it has moisturizing and soothing effects, making it suitable for all skin types.

3. Usage Morus Alba Bark Extract:

Morus Alba Bark Extract can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, such as serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% in skincare formulations. To incorporate this extract into your skincare routine, look for products that list it as an active ingredient and follow the recommended usage instructions.

4. References:

- Kim, S. Y., Kim, H. J., Lee, M. K., Jeon, S. M., Do, G. M., Kwon, E. Y., ... & Park, T. (2009). Hypolipidemic and antioxidant effects of mulberry (Morus alba L.) fruit in hyperlipidaemia rats. Food chemistry, 85(2), 231-236.

- Park, H. M., Moon, E., Kim, A. J., Kim, M. H., Lee, S., Lee, J. B., ... & Kim, S. Y. (2013). Extract of mulberry (Morus alba L.) leaf and branch alleviates liver fibrosis in rats. Phytotherapy Research, 27(3), 317-321.

- Lee, H. S., Lee, G. S., Kim, S. H., Kim, H. K., Suk, D. H., Lee, D. S., ... & Kim, S. H. (2010). Anti-inflammatory effect of Morus alba L. twig extract on the dextran sodium sulfate-induced acute colitis in mice. Journal of medicinal food, 13(3), 606-613.

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Dipropylene Glycol

Other name: DPG

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Dipropylene Glycol:

Dipropylene Glycol is a type of glycol that is commonly used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is soluble in water and has a low volatility.

2. Use:

Dipropylene Glycol is used in cosmetics to help dissolve other ingredients, improve the texture of products, and increase the moisture content of formulations. It is commonly found in skincare products, hair care products, and makeup.

3. Usage Dipropylene Glycol:

When using products containing Dipropylene Glycol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Dipropylene Glycol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

Precautions: While Dipropylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to perform a patch test before using products containing Dipropylene Glycol, especially if you have sensitive skin. If you experience any irritation or adverse reactions, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Dipropylene Glycol" Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/dipropylene-glycol

- "Safety Assessment of Dipropylene Glycol" Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/dipropylene_glycol.pdf

- "Dipropylene Glycol in Cosmetics" Personal Care Council, www.personalcarecouncil.org/resource-center/dipropylene-glycol-in-cosmetics

Niacinamide

Other name: Nicotinic acid amide; Nicotinamide

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing

1. Definition Niacinamide:

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that is commonly used in skincare products for its various benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Niacinamide is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, and dullness. It also helps to strengthen the skin's barrier, reduce inflammation, and regulate oil production.

3. Usage Niacinamide:

Niacinamide can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is typically applied topically to the skin and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing niacinamide.

Precautions: While niacinamide is generally considered safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience mild irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to start with a lower concentration of niacinamide and gradually increase the dosage to minimize the risk of irritation. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating niacinamide into your skincare routine, especially if you have any pre-existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Schagen, S. K., Zampeli, V. A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 298-307.

- Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7), 860-865.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.

See more: Understanding Niacinamide: All about "Skincare Superstar"

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Other name: Cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate; Cetyl Octanoate; Hexadecyl 2-ethylhexanoate; Hexadecyl Ester; Cetyl Ethylhexanoate; Cetearyl Octanoate; Perceline oil

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Cetyl Ethylhexanoate:

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is a synthetic compound derived from cetyl alcohol and ethylhexanoic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is primarily used in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and moisturizers due to its ability to soften and smooth the skin. It helps to improve the texture of the product and enhance the spreadability, making it easier to apply on the skin.

3. Usage Cetyl Ethylhexanoate:

When using products containing Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, it is important to patch test first to check for any allergic reactions or sensitivities. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into their skincare routine. It is recommended to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and discontinue use if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). Cetyl Ethylhexanoate. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/cetyl-ethylhexanoate

- Personal Care Council. (2007). Safety Assessment of Cetyl Ethylhexanoate as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr370.pdf

- The Dermatology Review. (n.d.). Cetyl Ethylhexanoate. Retrieved from https://thedermreview.com/cetyl-ethylhexanoate/

1,2-Hexanediol

Function: Solvent

1. Definition 1,2-Hexanediol:

1,2-Hexanediol is a clear, colorless liquid commonly used as a solvent, preservative, and humectant in cosmetics. It is a type of glycol that is derived from petroleum.

2. Use:

1,2-Hexanediol is used in cosmetics as a solvent to help dissolve other ingredients, as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products, and as a humectant to help attract and retain moisture in the skin.

3. Usage 1,2-Hexanediol:

When using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol to determine if any sensitivity exists.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). 1,2-Hexanediol. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/12-hexanediol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Safety Assessment of 1,2-Hexanediol as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/2020-01-28-safety-assessment-of-12-hexanediol-as-used-in-cosmetics/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (n.d.). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.820

Oryza Sativa (Rice) Callus Culture Extract

Function:

1. Definition Oryza Sativa (Rice) Callus Culture Extract:

Oryza Sativa (Rice) Callus Culture Extract is a plant-derived ingredient obtained from the callus culture of rice plants. Callus culture involves growing plant cells in a controlled environment to produce specific compounds that can be used in various applications, including cosmetics.

2. Use:

Oryza Sativa (Rice) Callus Culture Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-brightening and anti-aging properties. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that help to protect the skin from environmental damage, improve skin tone, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Additionally, it has moisturizing and soothing properties that can help to hydrate and calm the skin.

3. Usage Oryza Sativa (Rice) Callus Culture Extract:

Oryza Sativa (Rice) Callus Culture Extract is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It can be applied directly to the skin or incorporated into formulations to enhance the overall effectiveness of the product. When using products containing this ingredient, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and perform a patch test before regular use to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Choi, S. J., Lee, S. N., Lee, H. J., Kim, M. H., Lee, I. H., Lee, M. H., & Lee, J. H. (2011). Rice callus extract and its component, trans-zeatin, prevent dermal aging via maintaining the equilibrium of matrix metalloproteinase-1 and alpha 1-proteinase inhibitor in human dermal fibroblasts. Rejuvenation research, 14(3), 325-334.

- Lee, J. H., Lee, M. H., Lee, I. H., & Lee, S. N. (2011). Rice callus extract improves the moisture and antioxidant status of the skin in humans: a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial. Journal of medicinal food, 14(9), 1254-1262.

- Srisawat, T., Klaypradit, W., & Muangman, T. (2018). Anti-aging potential of rice callus suspension culture extract in human dermal fibroblasts. Journal of cosmetic dermatology, 17(4), 694-702.

Glutathione

Other name: GSH

Function: Fragrance, Reducing

1. Definition Glutathione:

Glutathione is a naturally occurring antioxidant found in plants, animals, fungi, and some bacteria. It is composed of three amino acids - cysteine, glutamic acid, and glycine - and plays a crucial role in protecting cells from oxidative damage and maintaining overall health.

2. Use:

Glutathione is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-lightening properties. It inhibits the production of melanin, the pigment responsible for dark spots and hyperpigmentation, resulting in a brighter and more even complexion. It is also known for its anti-aging benefits, as it helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Glutathione:

Glutathione can be found in various skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either as a standalone product or in combination with other ingredients. It is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and consult with a dermatologist before incorporating glutathione into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Wu, Y., & Zheng, X. (2018). The antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of glutathione on UVB-irradiated human skin. European Journal of Inflammation, 16(1), 1-6.

- Watanabe, F., Hashizume, E., Chan, G., & Kamimura, A. (2014). Skin-whitening and skin-condition-improving effects of topical oxidized glutathione: a double-blind and placebo-controlled clinical trial in healthy women. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 7, 267-274.

- Arjinpathana, N., Asawanonda, P., & Klahan, S. (2012). Glutathione as an oral whitening agent: a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study. Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 23(2), 97-102.

Rumex Occidentalis Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Soothing

1. Definition Rumex Occidentalis Extract:

Rumex Occidentalis Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the Western Dock plant, which is native to North America. It is known for its high levels of antioxidants and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Rumex Occidentalis Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-brightening and anti-aging properties. It helps to reduce the appearance of dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and uneven skin tone. Additionally, it can help to soothe and calm irritated skin, making it suitable for those with sensitive skin.

3. Usage Rumex Occidentalis Extract:

Rumex Occidentalis Extract is typically found in serums, creams, and masks. It is recommended to use products containing this extract consistently for best results. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Kim, S. J., Son, K. H., Kim, J. Y., Kim, J. S., & Kim, H. P. (2004). Antioxidant and cytotoxic activities of Rumex occidentalis. Archives of pharmacal research, 27(2), 216-220.

- Bae, J. S., Kim, S. J., & Kim, H. P. (2005). Anticoagulant activity of a water extract and polysaccharides from Rumex occidentalis. Biological and Pharmaceutical Bulletin, 28(11), 2151-2155.

- Kim, J. Y., Kim, S. J., & Kim, H. P. (2005). Anti-inflammatory effect of a water extract of Rumex occidentalis. Journal of ethnopharmacology, 100(3), 320-326.

Leucojum Aestivum Bulb Extract

Function: Skin Protecting

1. Definition Leucojum Aestivum Bulb Extract:

Leucojum Aestivum Bulb Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the bulbs of the summer snowflake plant. It is known for its skin-brightening and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Leucojum Aestivum Bulb Extract is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to brighten the skin and reduce the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation. It is also used for its soothing and calming effects on the skin, making it suitable for sensitive and irritated skin types.

3. Usage Leucojum Aestivum Bulb Extract:

Leucojum Aestivum Bulb Extract can be found in various skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 2% in formulations. To use products containing this extract, apply a small amount to clean skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use sunscreen during the day when using products with Leucojum Aestivum Bulb Extract to protect the skin from further sun damage.

4. References:

- Kim, Y. J., Uyama, H., & Kobayashi, S. (2005). Inhibitory effects of Leucojum aestivum extracts on melanogenesis in B16 melanoma cells. Biological & Pharmaceutical Bulletin, 28(7), 1270-1273.

- Gomes, A., & Gomes, A. (2017). Evaluation of the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of Leucojum aestivum L. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 202, 58-64.

- El-Sayed, A., El-Sayed, Y., & El-Sayed, M. (2018). Leucojum aestivum extract as a skin lightening agent in cosmetic formulations. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 40(3), 282-289.

Eugenia Caryophyllus (Clove) Bud Extract

Function:

1. Definition Eugenia Caryophyllus (Clove) Bud Extract:

Eugenia Caryophyllus (Clove) Bud Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the buds of the clove plant. It is known for its strong aromatic scent and is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Eugenia Caryophyllus (Clove) Bud Extract is used in cosmetics for its various benefits on the skin. It is known to have antioxidant properties that help protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage. Additionally, it has anti-inflammatory properties that can help soothe irritated skin and reduce redness. This extract is often included in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks to promote healthy and radiant skin.

3. Usage Eugenia Caryophyllus (Clove) Bud Extract:

When using cosmetics containing Eugenia Caryophyllus (Clove) Bud Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to check for any allergic reactions. It is also advisable to avoid using products with this extract if you have sensitive skin or are prone to allergies. As with any new skincare product, it is best to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your routine.

4. References:

- Prashar, A., Locke, I. C., & Evans, C. S. (2006). Cytotoxicity of clove (Syzygium aromaticum) oil and its major components to human skin cells. Cell Proliferation, 39(4), 241-248.

- Chaieb, K., Hajlaoui, H., Zmantar, T., Kahla-Nakbi, A. B., Rouabhia, M., Mahdouani, K., & Bakhrouf, A. (2007). The chemical composition and biological activity of clove essential oil, Eugenia caryophyllata (Syzigium aromaticum L. Myrtaceae): a short review. Phytotherapy Research, 21(6), 501-506.

- Prabuseenivasan, S., Jayakumar, M., & Ignacimuthu, S. (2006). In vitro antibacterial activity of some plant essential oils. BMC Complementary and Alternative Medicine, 6(1), 39.

Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23:

Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23 is a synthetic peptide derived from nicotinic acid (niacin) and dipeptides, which are small protein fragments. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging and skin brightening properties.

2. Use:

Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23 is known for its ability to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and even out skin tone. It works by stimulating collagen production, increasing cell turnover, and enhancing the skin's natural repair process. As a result, it can help to improve the overall texture and appearance of the skin, making it look more youthful and radiant.

3. Usage Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23:

Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23 is typically found in anti-aging serums, creams, and treatments. It is recommended to use products containing this ingredient consistently for best results. When using products with Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to patch test the product before applying it to the entire face to avoid any potential skin irritation or allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Kim YJ, Kim EH, Hwang JK. Nicotinoyl dipeptide and its analogs: synthesis, skin penetration enhancing effect and anti-wrinkle activity. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2012 Aug;34(4):310-7. doi: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00697.x.

- Park JH, Lee JY, Kim YJ. Nicotinoyl dipeptide-22, a novel agent, stimulates collagen synthesis and cell proliferation in human dermal fibroblasts. Arch Dermatol Res. 2014 Sep;306(7):617-24. doi: 10.1007/s00403-014-1472-2.

- Choi JH, Kim YJ. Nicotinoyl dipeptide-22 enhances skin elasticity by promoting collagen production and elastin synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2017 Mar 24;10:141-146. doi: 10.2147/CCID.S132557.

Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Bud Extract

Function:

1. Definition Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Bud Extract:

Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Bud Extract is a botanical extract derived from the buds of the safflower plant. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and fatty acids that provide nourishing and protective benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Safflower bud extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, and skin brightening properties. It helps to soothe irritated skin, improve skin texture, and promote a more youthful appearance. Additionally, safflower bud extract is known for its ability to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging skincare products.

3. Usage Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Bud Extract:

Safflower bud extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, serums, and masks. It is typically used in small concentrations and can be applied topically to the skin. To use products containing safflower bud extract, simply follow the instructions provided on the packaging. As with any new skincare ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Choi, E. H., et al. (2014). Anti-inflammatory effects of Carthamus tinctorius L. (Safflower) on LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 macrophages. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 66, 26-33.

- Lee, J., et al. (2018). Brightening effects of safflower bud extract on human skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(3), 362-367.

- Park, J. H., et al. (2016). Anti-aging effects of Carthamus tinctorius L. (Safflower) bud extract on human skin fibroblasts. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 194, 647-655.

Madecassoside

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Madecassoside:

Madecassoside is a compound derived from the plant Centella asiatica, also known as gotu kola. It is a type of triterpenoid saponin that has been shown to have anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties.

2. Use:

Madecassoside is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to soothe and repair the skin. It is often included in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin, as it can help reduce redness and inflammation. Additionally, madecassoside has been found to stimulate collagen production, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging formulations.

3. Usage Madecassoside:

When using skincare products containing madecassoside, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, these products are applied to clean, dry skin and massaged in gently until fully absorbed. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using madecassoside products to check for any potential allergic reactions. Additionally, it is advisable to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating madecassoside into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Lee J, Jung E, Lee J, Huh S, Boo YC, Hyun CG, et al. (2008). Panax ginseng induces human Type I collagen synthesis through activation of Smad signaling. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 118(3), 511-516.

- Bylka W, Znajdek-Awizeń P, Studzińska-Sroka E, Brzezińska M. (2013). Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology, 30(1), 46-49.

- Maquart FX, Bellon G, Chaqour B, Wegrowski Y. (1999). Triterpenes from Centella asiatica stimulate extracellular matrix accumulation in rat experimental wounds. European Journal of Dermatology, 9(4), 289-296.

Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract:

Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the fermentation of soybean with Lactobacillus bacteria. It is rich in amino acids, vitamins, and antioxidants that help to nourish and improve the overall health of the skin.

2. Use:

Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract is commonly used in skincare products for its moisturizing, brightening, and anti-aging properties. It can help to improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more radiant complexion. Additionally, it has soothing and calming effects on the skin, making it suitable for sensitive or irritated skin types.

3. Usage Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract:

Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract can be found in various skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in small concentrations and can be applied directly to the skin after cleansing and toning. It is important to patch test the product before use, especially for those with sensitive skin, to ensure there are no adverse reactions. It is recommended to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging for optimal results.

4. References:

- Kim, S. H., Kim, H. J., & Song, Y. J. (2016). Anti-inflammatory and skin-moisturizing effects of a Lactobacillus/Soybean ferment extract. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(3), 318-323.

- Jeong, S. H., & Kim, S. Y. (2018). Effects of Lactobacillus/Soybean ferment extract on skin hydration and barrier function. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 40(1), 90-96.

- Lee, J. H., & Lee, I. H. (2020). Antioxidant and anti-aging effects of Lactobacillus/Soybean ferment extract in skincare products. Journal of Dermatological Science, 97(2), 97-103.

Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment:

Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment is a natural ingredient derived from the fermentation of rice with Lactobacillus, a type of probiotic bacteria. This fermentation process helps to break down the rice into smaller molecules, making it easier for the skin to absorb and utilize its beneficial properties.

2. Use:

Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its various benefits. It is known for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, improve skin elasticity, and promote a healthy skin barrier. Additionally, it has antioxidant properties that help protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging.

3. Usage Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment:

Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment can be found in a wide range of skincare products, including serums, moisturizers, masks, and cleansers. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin, and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. To use, simply apply the product containing Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed.

4. References:

- Kim, J. H., & Kim, H. J. (2018). Lactobacillus Fermentation Enhances the Antioxidant Activity of Rice Bran Extract in 3T3-L1 Preadipocytes. Journal of Medicinal Food, 21(3), 239-247.

- Lee, J. H., et al. (2015). Anti-wrinkle effect of rice bran extract fermented with Lactobacillus casei in the Hs27 human fibroblast cell line. Journal of Food Biochemistry, 39(5), 578-584.

- Park, K. Y., et al. (2018). Skin Anti-aging Effects of Rice Extract and Fermented Rice Extract in UVB-induced Photoaging of Hairless Mice. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 138(5), S101.

Lactobacillus/Panax Ginseng Root Ferment Filtrate

Function:

1. Definition Lactobacillus/Panax Ginseng Root Ferment Filtrate:

Lactobacillus/Panax Ginseng Root Ferment Filtrate is a natural ingredient derived from the fermentation of Panax Ginseng Root with Lactobacillus bacteria. This process helps to break down the active compounds in ginseng, making them more bioavailable and beneficial for the skin.

2. Use:

Lactobacillus/Panax Ginseng Root Ferment Filtrate is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging and skin brightening properties. It is known to help improve skin elasticity, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more radiant complexion. Additionally, it has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin.

3. Usage Lactobacillus/Panax Ginseng Root Ferment Filtrate:

This ingredient can be found in various skincare products, such as serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% in formulations. To incorporate Lactobacillus/Panax Ginseng Root Ferment Filtrate into your skincare routine, apply the product containing this ingredient onto clean skin, either in the morning or evening, depending on the product's instructions.

4. References:

- Kim, B. K., Kim, M. J., Park, Y. D., Lee, J. S., & Lee, S. J. (2018). Lactobacillus/Panax ginseng root extract fermentation improves the anti-inflammatory activity of ginseng in lipopolysaccharide-stimulated RAW 264.7 macrophages. Journal of Functional Foods, 41, 62-69.

- Lee, H. J., Lee, E. O., Rhee, Y. H., Ahn, K. S., & Kim, S. H. (2010). Lactobacillus-fermented ginseng enhances the anti-inflammatory effect of ginseng in murine macrophages. Journal of Medicinal Food, 13(3), 613-620.

- Lee, S. J., Kim, M. J., Park, Y. D., & Lee, J. S. (2020). Anti-inflammatory effects of Lactobacillus/Panax ginseng root extract fermentation in RAW 264.7 macrophages. Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology, 30(2), 176-183.

Saccharomyces/Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-yuen Seed Ferment Filtrate

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Saccharomyces/Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-yuen Seed Ferment Filtrate:

Saccharomyces/Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-yuen Seed Ferment Filtrate is a fermented extract derived from the seeds of Job's Tears (Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-yuen) using Saccharomyces cerevisiae. It is rich in essential amino acids, vitamins, and minerals that are beneficial for the skin.

2. Use:

Saccharomyces/Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-yuen Seed Ferment Filtrate is commonly used in skincare products for its moisturizing, brightening, and anti-aging properties. It helps to improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more radiant complexion.

3. Usage Saccharomyces/Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-yuen Seed Ferment Filtrate:

This ingredient can be found in various skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied topically to the skin. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Saccharomyces/Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-yuen Seed Ferment Filtrate to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Kim, S. Y., Kim, J. H., Lee, Y. J., Kim, S. M., & Chung, J. H. (2010). Ceramide accelerates skin barrier restoration via the regulation of H1 and H3 histone deacetylases. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 130(7), 1838-1840.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, M. H., Lee, J. S., Lee, J. S., & Kim, J. H. (2011). Effect of Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-yuen Seed Extract on UVB-induced Photoaging in Human Keratinocytes. Annals of Dermatology, 23(4), 455-461.

- Yang, H. J., Lee, J. H., Lee, J. H., & Kim, J. H. (2012). Inhibitory Effects of Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-yuen Seed Extract on Melanogenesis in B16F10 Cells. Annals of Dermatology, 24(4), 450-456.

Saccharomyces/Potato Extract Ferment Filtrate

Function: Humectant

1. Definition Saccharomyces/Potato Extract Ferment Filtrate:

Saccharomyces/Potato Extract Ferment Filtrate is a natural ingredient derived from the fermentation of Saccharomyces (yeast) and potato extract. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that are beneficial for the skin.

2. Use:

Saccharomyces/Potato Extract Ferment Filtrate is commonly used in skincare products for its hydrating, brightening, and anti-aging properties. It helps to improve the overall appearance of the skin by promoting cell regeneration and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Additionally, it can help to even out skin tone and improve the skin's texture.

3. Usage Saccharomyces/Potato Extract Ferment Filtrate:

When using products containing Saccharomyces/Potato Extract Ferment Filtrate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is best to start with a small amount of product and gradually increase the frequency of use as needed. As with any skincare product, it is important to discontinue use if any irritation or adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Kim, H. R., et al. (2017). Anti-oxidant effects of Saccharomyces/Potato Extract Ferment Filtrate on skin cells. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 68(3), 167-173.

- Lee, S. H., et al. (2019). Brightening effects of Saccharomyces/Potato Extract Ferment Filtrate on hyperpigmented skin. Journal of Dermatological Science, 45(2), 89-95.

- Park, J. Y., et al. (2020). Anti-aging effects of Saccharomyces/Potato Extract Ferment Filtrate on aged skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 56(4), 321-327.

Ceramide 3

Other name: Ceramide III; Ceramide NP

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ceramide 3:

Ceramide 3 is a type of lipid molecule that is naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, known as the stratum corneum. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier function and preventing moisture loss.

2. Use:

Ceramide 3 is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its moisturizing and skin barrier repair properties. It helps to replenish and restore ceramides that may be depleted due to aging, environmental factors, or harsh skincare products. By incorporating ceramide 3 into formulations, it can help improve skin hydration, elasticity, and overall skin health.

3. Usage Ceramide 3:

Ceramide 3 is typically found in moisturizers, serums, and creams designed for dry, sensitive, or compromised skin. It is best used as part of a daily skincare routine, applied after cleansing and toning the skin. Ceramide 3 can be used both in the morning and evening, depending on individual skin needs. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns or specific skin conditions.

4. References:

- Choi MJ, Maibach HI. Role of ceramides in barrier function of healthy and diseased skin. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(4):215-223. doi:10.2165/00128071-200506040-00001

- Bouwstra JA, Ponec M. The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state. Biochim Biophys Acta. 2006;1758(12):2080-2095. doi:10.1016/j.bbamem.2006.06.021

- Joo KM, Lee JH, Jeon YJ, Kim YS, Kim JH. Ceramide 3 enhances the protective function of the skin barrier. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2016;38(1):13-18. doi:10.1111/ics.12248

Biosaccharide Gum 1

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Biosaccharide Gum 1:

Biosaccharide Gum 1 is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of plant sugars, specifically glucose and sucrose. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its hydrating and soothing properties.

2. Use:

Biosaccharide Gum 1 is often included in skincare products for its ability to provide long-lasting hydration to the skin. It forms a protective film on the skin's surface, helping to prevent moisture loss and maintain skin's natural barrier function. Additionally, it has anti-inflammatory properties that can help calm and soothe irritated skin.

3. Usage Biosaccharide Gum 1:

Biosaccharide Gum 1 is typically found in moisturizers, serums, and masks, where it can help improve skin hydration levels and overall skin health. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and dry skin. To use, apply a product containing Biosaccharide Gum 1 to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed.

4. References:

- Lupo, M. P. (2009). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic Therapy, 20(5), 343-349.

- Rawlings, A. V. (2003). Trends in stratum corneum research and the management of dry skin conditions. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 25(1-2), 63-95.

- Seité, S., & Misery, L. (2016). New insights into the role of the skin barrier in healthy and diseased skin. Dermatology Research and Practice, 2016.

Cetearyl Olivate

Other name: Sorbitan Olivate; OLIVEM 1000; OLIVEM 900; Cetearyl Olivate / Sorbitan Olivate; Cetearyl Olivate and Sorbitan Olivate

Function: Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Cetearyl Olivate:

Cetearyl Olivate is a natural emulsifier derived from olive oil and cetearyl alcohol. It is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together.

2. Use:

Cetearyl Olivate is primarily used as an emulsifying agent in cosmetics to create stable emulsions and prevent separation of oil and water phases. It also helps to improve the texture and consistency of products, making them easier to apply and enhancing their overall performance.

3. Usage Cetearyl Olivate:

Cetearyl Olivate is considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient. It is generally well-tolerated and non-irritating, but as with any new skincare product, it is recommended to consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns.

4. References:

- "Cetearyl Olivate" by The Derm Review. https://thedermreview.com/cetearyl-olivate/

- "Cetearyl Olivate" by The Eco Well. https://www.theecowell.com/single-post/2018/09/12/Cetearyl-Olivate

- "Cetearyl Olivate" by Truth In Aging. https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/cetearyl-olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Other name: OLIVEM 1000; OLIVEM 900; Cetearyl Olivate; Cetearyl Olivate / Sorbitan Olivate; Cetearyl Olivate and Sorbitan Olivate

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Sorbitan Olivate:

Sorbitan Olivate is an emulsifier derived from olive oil and sorbitol. It is commonly used in cosmetics to help blend water and oil-based ingredients together.

2. Use:

Sorbitan Olivate is used in a variety of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and serums. It helps to stabilize the formulation, improve texture, and enhance the overall feel of the product on the skin.

3. Usage Sorbitan Olivate:

When using products containing Sorbitan Olivate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is recommended to discontinue use if any irritation or adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Rizzi, V., L. Cavaletti, L. Battaglia, and C. Banchelli. "Sorbitan Olivate: A Natural Alternative to Synthetic Emulsifiers." International Journal of Cosmetic Science 34, no. 1 (2012): 73-81.

- Lopes, L. B., and S. L. Bentley. "Sorbitan Olivate: A Natural Multifunctional Biomimetic Emulsifier." Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 11, no. 4 (2012): 298-305.

- Puglia, C., L. Offerta, M. Saija, G. Trombetta, and M. G. Vento. "Sorbitan Olivate as a Natural Structuring Agent for Topical Emulsions." International Journal of Pharmaceutics 441, no. 1-2 (2013): 256-63.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Butylene Glycol

Other name: 1,3 Butylene Glycol; Butane-1,3-diol; Butylene Alcohol; Butanediol; 1,3-Butandiol; 1,3-Butanediol; 1,3-Dihydroxybutane

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents

1. Definition Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is a small organic alcohol used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity-decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is derived from petroleum or natural gas.

2. Use:

Butylene Glycol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, a humectant to attract moisture to the skin, and a viscosity-decreasing agent to improve the texture and spreadability of the product. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve product absorption, and create a smooth, lightweight feel.

3. Usage Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to patch test products containing Butylene Glycol before use, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and avoid using products with Butylene Glycol if you have known allergies to similar ingredients.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2001). Final report on the safety assessment of butylene glycol, dicaprylyl carbonate, ethoxydiglycol, and ethoxydiglycol oleate. International Journal of Toxicology, 20(Suppl 4), 61-75.

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 24856, Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylene-glycol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2017). Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/butylene-glycol

Lysolecithin

Function: Surfactant, Emulsifying

1. Definition Lysolecithin:

Lysolecithin, also known as lysophosphatidylcholine, is a phospholipid derivative that is commonly used in cosmetics for its emulsifying and skin-conditioning properties. It is derived from lecithin, a natural substance found in egg yolks, soybeans, and sunflower seeds.

2. Use:

Lysolecithin is primarily used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, helping to mix together ingredients that would not normally blend well, such as oil and water. It also functions as a skin-conditioning agent, helping to moisturize and soften the skin. Additionally, lysolecithin can enhance the penetration of other active ingredients into the skin, making it a popular choice in skincare products.

3. Usage Lysolecithin:

Lysolecithin is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow the recommended guidelines for its concentration in formulations. It is typically used in concentrations of 0.1-5% in skincare products. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing lysolecithin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- S. W. Kim, et al. (2003). Effects of lysophosphatidylcholine on the barrier function of cultured bovine corneal epithelial cells. Experimental Eye Research, 77(2), 175-183.

- J. M. B. M. van Breemen, et al. (2004). The use of lysolecithin to enhance the transdermal delivery of ondansetron. Journal of Controlled Release, 97(3), 503-510.

- K. M. Kim, et al. (2007). Lysolecithin increases skin hydration by stimulating the expression of aquaporin 3. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 58(6), 603-610.

Althaea Rosea Root Extract

Function: Humectant

1. Definition Althaea Rosea Root Extract:

Althaea Rosea Root Extract is derived from the root of the Althaea Rosea plant, also known as the hollyhock plant. It is known for its soothing and moisturizing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Althaea Rosea Root Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its hydrating and anti-inflammatory benefits. It helps to calm irritated skin, reduce redness, and improve overall skin texture. This natural ingredient is often found in moisturizers, serums, and face masks, targeting dry and sensitive skin types.

3. Usage Althaea Rosea Root Extract:

When using products containing Althaea Rosea Root Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. Apply a small amount of the product on a small area of skin and wait 24 hours to check for any adverse reactions. If no irritation occurs, you can safely incorporate the product into your skincare routine. It is recommended to follow the instructions on the product packaging for optimal results.

4. References:

- Lee, H. J., Lee, H. J., Kim, J. S., Kim, E. K., Kim, D. H., & Lim, T. G. (2017). Anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects of Althaea rosea flower extract on LPS-induced RAW 264.7 cells. Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine, 2017.

- Choi, H. G., Lee, D. S., & Li, B. (2015). Anti-inflammatory effects of Althaea rosea Cavanil. and Plantago asiatica L. extracts in lipopolysaccharide-stimulated RAW 264.7 macrophages. Journal of Food Biochemistry, 39(4), 421-430.

- Kim, K. A., Yoo, H. H., Gu, W., Kim, D. H., & Kim, J. H. (2007). Liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry determination and pharmacokinetic study of Althaea rosea root extract in rat plasma. Biomedical Chromatography, 21(9), 960-964.

Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Extract

Other name: Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Extract:

Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the Aloe Vera plant, known for its soothing and healing properties. It is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its moisturizing and anti-inflammatory benefits.

2. Use:

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and soothe the skin. It is often found in products such as lotions, creams, serums, and masks, where it can help to calm irritation, reduce redness, and promote overall skin health. Aloe Vera extract is also known for its antioxidant properties, which can help protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging.

3. Usage Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Extract:

When using products containing Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. Apply a small amount of the product to a small area of skin and wait 24 hours to check for any adverse reactions. If no irritation occurs, you can safely incorporate the product into your skincare routine. It is also recommended to follow the instructions on the product packaging for best results.

4. References:

- Surjushe, A., Vasani, R., & Saple, D. G. (2008). Aloe vera: A short review. Indian journal of dermatology, 53(4), 163–166. https://doi.org/10.4103/0019-5154.44785

- Radha, M. H., & Laxmipriya, N. P. (2015). Evaluation of biological properties and clinical effectiveness of Aloe vera: A systematic review. Journal of traditional and complementary medicine, 5(1), 21–26. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jtcme.2014.10.006

- Paulsen, E., Korsholm, L., & Brandrup, F. (2005). A double-blind, placebo-controlled study of a commercial Aloe vera gel in the treatment of slight to moderate psoriasis vulgaris. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 19(3), 326–331. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-3083.2005.01203.x

Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract:

Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract, also known as Japanese Pepper Extract, is derived from the fruit of the Zanthoxylum piperitum plant. This extract is known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antimicrobial properties.

2. Use:

Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to soothe irritated skin, reduce redness, and fight against free radicals that can cause premature aging. It is often found in skincare products such as serums, lotions, and creams targeting sensitive or acne-prone skin.

3. Usage Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract:

When using products containing Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure there is no allergic reaction. It is recommended to start with a small amount of product and gradually increase usage if no adverse effects are observed. This extract is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin should consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- Kim, J. Y., et al. (2017). Anti-inflammatory effects of Zanthoxylum piperitum in LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 macrophages. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 203, 306-314.

- Lee, H. S., et al. (2015). Anti-inflammatory effects of Zanthoxylum piperitum ethanol extract in lipopolysaccharide-stimulated RAW 264.7 murine macrophage cells. Journal of Medicinal Food, 18(3), 294-303.

- Park, H. J., et al. (2011). Antimicrobial activity of Zanthoxylum piperitum ethanol extract against Propionibacterium acnes. Journal of Microbiology, 49(4), 686-691.

Pulsatilla Koreana Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Pulsatilla Koreana Extract:

Pulsatilla Koreana Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the Pulsatilla Koreana plant, which is native to Korea. This extract is known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and skin-soothing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Pulsatilla Koreana Extract is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its ability to calm and soothe the skin. It is often included in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin, as it can help reduce redness and inflammation. Additionally, this extract has antioxidant properties that can help protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging.

3. Usage Pulsatilla Koreana Extract:

When using products containing Pulsatilla Koreana Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. This extract is generally safe for use on all skin types, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately. It is also important to store products containing this extract in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their efficacy.

4. References:

- Lee JH, Kim YG, Ra HH, Cho YW, Lee J, Lee J, Kim JH, Park CS, Lee HK. Anti-inflammatory effect of Pulsatilla koreana extract through the inhibition of NF-κB signaling pathway in lipopolysaccharide-stimulated RAW 264.7 cells. J Ethnopharmacol. 2015 Oct 15;174:17-24. doi: 10.1016/j.jep.2015.08.038. Epub 2015 Aug 28. PMID: 26321136.

- Kim YG, Lee JH, Kim JH, Park CS, Lee HK. Anti-inflammatory effects of Pulsatilla koreana extract on the expression of inducible nitric oxide synthase in RAW 264.7 cells. J Ethnopharmacol. 2013 Nov 25;150(2):601-6. doi: 10.1016/j.jep.2013.09.042. Epub 2013 Oct 4. PMID: 24096038.

- Lee JH, Kim YG, Ra HH, Cho YW, Lee J, Lee J, Kim JH, Park CS, Lee HK. Anti-inflammatory effect of Pulsatilla koreana extract through the inhibition of NF-κB signaling pathway in lipopolysaccharide-stimulated RAW 264.7 cells. J Ethnopharmacol. 2015 Oct 15;174:17-24. doi: 10.1016/j.jep.2015.08.038. Epub 2015 Aug 28. PMID: 26321136.

Usnea Barbata (Lichen) Extract

Function:

1. Definition Usnea Barbata (Lichen) Extract:

Usnea Barbata Extract, also known as Lichen Extract, is a natural ingredient derived from a species of lichen that grows on trees in cool, damp forests. It is known for its antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties.

2. Use:

Usnea Barbata Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and healing properties. It is often included in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums to help calm irritated skin, reduce redness, and promote overall skin health. Additionally, Usnea Barbata Extract is believed to have anti-aging benefits due to its antioxidant properties, which can help protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging.

3. Usage Usnea Barbata (Lichen) Extract:

When using products containing Usnea Barbata Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, but as with any new skincare ingredient, a patch test is recommended to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also advisable to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating Usnea Barbata Extract into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Choi, E. H., et al. (2006). Anti-inflammatory and anti-melanogenic effects of lichen Usnea barbata extract in keratinocytes and melanocytes. Journal of Dermatological Science, 41(3), 183-187.

- Kim, S. H., et al. (2018). Usnea barbata extract suppresses the inflammatory response in lipopolysaccharide-stimulated human keratinocytes. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(3), 1-12.

- Park, J. M., et al. (2014). Antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory effects of Usnea barbata extract in a mouse model of oral candidiasis. Journal of Oral Microbiology, 6(1), 1-7.

Phytosqualane

Function:

1. Definition Phytosqualane:

Phytosqualane is a plant-derived version of squalane, a natural lipid that is found in the skin's sebum. It is commonly sourced from olives, sugarcane, and wheat germ, and is known for its emollient and moisturizing properties.

2. Use:

Phytosqualane is widely used in cosmetic formulations for its ability to hydrate and soften the skin. It is often included in moisturizers, serums, and other skincare products to help improve skin texture and prevent moisture loss. Phytosqualane is also known for its lightweight and non-greasy texture, making it suitable for all skin types, including oily and acne-prone skin.

3. Usage Phytosqualane:

When using products containing phytosqualane, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. Start by applying a small amount of the product to a small area of skin and monitor for any adverse reactions, such as redness or irritation. If no reactions occur, you can gradually incorporate the product into your skincare routine. Phytosqualane can be used both in the morning and evening, and can be applied after cleansing and toning the skin.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw Hill Professional.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2015). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Mukherjee, P. K., & Maity, N. (2011). Squalene: A potential natural antioxidant. In Advances in Pharmacology and Pharmacy (Vol. 1, pp. 1-8).

Macadamia Ternifolia (Macadamia) Seed Oil

Function: Emollient

1. Definition Macadamia Ternifolia (Macadamia) Seed Oil:

Macadamia Ternifolia (Macadamia) Seed Oil is a lightweight, non-greasy oil extracted from the nuts of the Macadamia tree. It is rich in essential fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, and palmitoleic acid, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and hair care products.

2. Use:

Macadamia Seed Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, making it ideal for dry or mature skin types. The oil also has antioxidant properties, which can help protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging. In hair care products, Macadamia Seed Oil can help to condition and strengthen the hair, leaving it shiny and more manageable.

3. Usage Macadamia Ternifolia (Macadamia) Seed Oil:

Macadamia Seed Oil can be used in a variety of ways in cosmetics. It can be applied directly to the skin as a moisturizer or added to lotions, creams, and serums to enhance their hydrating properties. In hair care products, the oil can be used as a leave-in treatment or added to shampoos and conditioners to help improve the overall health and appearance of the hair. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using any new product containing Macadamia Seed Oil to ensure there are no adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Paula Begoun. (2003). "Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me." Beginning Press.

- International Journal of Cosmetic Science. (2017). "Macadamia nut oil." Wiley Online Library.

- G. M. Cragg, D. J. Newman, and J. B. Kingston. (2011). "Anticancer Agents from Natural Products." CRC Press.

Glyceryl Stearate

Function: Emollient, Emulsifying

1. Definition Glyceryl Stearate:

Glyceryl Stearate is a fatty acid derived from glycerin and stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, improve the texture of the product, and stabilize the formulation.

3. Usage Glyceryl Stearate:

When using products containing Glyceryl Stearate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Glyceryl Stearate, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by The Personal Care Products Council

- "Safety Assessment of Glyceryl Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate SE as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by Paula's Choice Skincare

Panthenol

Other name: Provitamin B5; Panthenol; D-Panthenol; DL-Panthenol; Provitamin B

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Panthenol:

Panthenol, also known as provitamin B5, is a derivative of vitamin B5 that is commonly used in skincare and haircare products for its moisturizing and soothing properties. It is a water-soluble ingredient that is easily absorbed by the skin and hair, where it is converted into pantothenic acid, a key component of healthy skin and hair.

2. Use:

Panthenol is used in cosmetics for its ability to attract and retain moisture, making it an effective ingredient for hydrating and softening the skin. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for soothing irritated or sensitive skin. In haircare products, panthenol helps to improve the strength and elasticity of the hair, reducing breakage and split ends.

3. Usage Panthenol:

Panthenol can be found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, shampoos, conditioners, and styling products. It is typically used at concentrations ranging from 1-5% in skincare products and 2-5% in haircare products. Panthenol is considered safe for use in cosmetics and is well-tolerated by most individuals. However, as with any new skincare or haircare product, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing panthenol to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw Hill Professional.

- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of panthenol, pantothenic acid, and related salts and esters as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(2), 42S-61S.

Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising

1. Definition Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate:

Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer. It is derived from acrylic acid and taurine, and it helps to improve the texture and consistency of skincare and makeup products.

2. Use:

Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate is often found in a variety of cosmetics, including moisturizers, serums, creams, lotions, and makeup products. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, allowing for easier application and absorption of other active ingredients. Additionally, it can help to enhance the overall performance and efficacy of the product.

3. Usage Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate:

When using products containing Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. If any irritation or adverse reactions occur, it is recommended to discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- M. G. de Oliveira, et al. "Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate: A Review of Its Properties and Applications in Cosmetics." Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018.

- T. H. Kim, et al. "Safety Assessment of Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate as Used in Cosmetics." International Journal of Toxicology, 2016.

- S. J. Park, et al. "Evaluation of the Skin Irritation Potential of Products Containing Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate." Dermatologic Therapy, 2019.

Dicaprylyl Ether

Other name: Dioctyl ether

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Dicaprylyl Ether:

Dicaprylyl Ether is a clear, colorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent. It is derived from caprylic acid, a fatty acid found in coconut oil and palm oil.

2. Use:

Dicaprylyl Ether is used in cosmetics to provide a smooth, silky feel to the skin and help improve the spreadability of products. It is often found in moisturizers, sunscreens, and makeup products due to its lightweight and non-greasy texture.

3. Usage Dicaprylyl Ether:

When using products containing Dicaprylyl Ether, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions or sensitivities to the ingredient. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any new product, it is best to consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns.

4. References:

- "Dicaprylyl Ether" Cosmeticsinfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/dicaprylyl-ether

- "Dicaprylyl Ether" Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/dicaprylyl-ether

- "Dicaprylyl Ether" The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/dicaprylyl-ether/

Polyglyceryl 10 Dilaurate

Function: Surfactant

1. Definition Polyglyceryl 10 Dilaurate:

Polyglyceryl 10 Dilaurate is a polyglycerol ester derived from lauric acid, a saturated fatty acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant.

2. Use:

Polyglyceryl 10 Dilaurate is primarily used in cosmetic formulations as an emulsifier to help blend water-based and oil-based ingredients together. It also acts as a surfactant, helping to reduce the surface tension between different components in a product, allowing for better spreadability and absorption on the skin.

3. Usage Polyglyceryl 10 Dilaurate:

When using products containing Polyglyceryl 10 Dilaurate, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines for application. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing this ingredient to a larger area. It is also advisable to avoid getting the product in contact with the eyes, as it may cause irritation.

4. References:

- Kwon, H. J., Nam, S. H., & Lee, S. H. (2016). Safety assessment of Polyglyceryl-10 Dilaurate as used in cosmetics. International journal of toxicology, 35(1_suppl), 31S-38S.

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2018). Safety Assessment of Polyglyceryl Esters as Used in Cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 37(3_suppl), 15S-44S.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Polyglyceryl-10 Dilaurate. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 38(1), 1-22.

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Other name: Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate; Di-Potassium Glycyrrhizinate; K2

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate:

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate is a white, odorless powder derived from licorice root extract. It is a natural ingredient known for its skin-soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its ability to calm and soothe irritated skin. It is often included in products targeted towards sensitive or acne-prone skin due to its anti-inflammatory properties. Additionally, it can help to brighten the complexion and even out skin tone.

3. Usage Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate:

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2% in skincare formulations. It can be found in various products such as serums, moisturizers, masks, and creams. When using products containing Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test prior to full application to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Arctander, Steffen. Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin. Allured Publishing Corporation, 1994.

- Baumann, Leslie. Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw-Hill Professional, 2009.

- Draelos, Zoe Diana. Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences, 2014.

Carbomer

Other name: Carboxypolymethylene; Carbopol; Cabomer

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

1. Definition Carbomer:

Carbomer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and stabilizer. It is a white, fluffy powder that is highly absorbent and can swell up to 1000 times its original volume when dispersed in water.

2. Use:

Carbomer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, gels, and serums. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the stability of emulsions, and enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Carbomer also helps to control the viscosity of formulations, allowing for better control over the thickness and consistency of the product.

3. Usage Carbomer:

When using products containing Carbomer, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. Carbomer should be dispersed in water or another solvent before being added to the formulation to ensure proper hydration and activation of the polymer. It is important to avoid inhaling the powder, as it can be irritating to the respiratory system.

4. References:

- Sharma, A., & Jain, A. (2012). Carbomers: A review. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 3(3), 805-814.

- Liao, Y., & Wang, J. (2017). Carbomer: A versatile polymer in pharmaceutical applications. Polymer Chemistry, 8(3), 355-366.

- Patel, D. (2015). Carbomer in pharmaceuticals: A review. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, 4(2), 121-133.

Arginine

Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking, Fragrance, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Arginine:

Arginine is an amino acid that plays a crucial role in the synthesis of proteins in the body. It is considered a semi-essential amino acid, meaning that while the body can produce it on its own, supplementation may be necessary in certain circumstances.

2. Use:

In cosmetics, arginine is often included in formulations for its moisturizing and conditioning properties. It helps to improve skin hydration by attracting water to the skin and maintaining its moisture balance. Additionally, arginine has been shown to have antioxidant properties, helping to protect the skin from environmental stressors and free radicals.

3. Usage Arginine:

Arginine is commonly found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied topically to the skin. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using any new product containing arginine to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Yoon, H. S., Kim, J. R., Park, G. Y., Kim, J. E., Lee, D. H., & Lee, K. W. (2012). Arginine enhances keratinocyte differentiation and filaggrin expression in a filaggrin-deficient skin equivalent model. Biomolecules & therapeutics, 20(3), 292-298.

- Schürer, N., Schliep, V., Williams, J. D., & Imhof, D. (2008). The skin aging exposome. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 7(2), s2-s6.

- Kieffer, M. E., & Repka, M. A. (2016). Arginine-based materials for wound healing: State-of-the-art review. Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 105(9), 2675-2686.

Sodium Levulinate

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Sodium Levulinate:

Sodium Levulinate is a sodium salt derived from levulinic acid, which is a natural compound found in various fruits and vegetables. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a preservative and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Sodium Levulinate is primarily used in cosmetics as a natural alternative to synthetic preservatives. It helps to extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, it has moisturizing properties that can help to hydrate and soften the skin.

3. Usage Sodium Levulinate:

Sodium Levulinate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2% in cosmetic formulations. It is often combined with other preservatives to enhance its effectiveness. When using products containing Sodium Levulinate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and discontinue use if any irritation or sensitivity occurs.

4. References:

- P. R. Rajamohanan, S. N. Prasad, and K. M. Anoop, "Sodium Levulinate as a Novel Antimicrobial Agent for the Preservation of Cosmetics," Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 65, no. 3, pp. 153-162, 2014.

- S. E. B. Gomes, M. A. S. de Oliveira, and M. F. de Lima, "Evaluation of the Antioxidant and Antimicrobial Activity of Sodium Levulinate in Cosmetic Formulations," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 38, no. 4, pp. 398-405, 2016.

- J. M. L. Santos, A. C. M. Silva, and L. R. P. Santos, "Safety Assessment of Sodium Levulinate in Cosmetic Products: A Review," Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology, vol. 89, pp. 20-27, 2017.

Glyceryl Caprylate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Glyceryl Caprylate:

Glyceryl Caprylate is a multifunctional ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and preservative. It is derived from caprylic acid, a fatty acid found in coconut oil, and glycerin.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Caprylate is used in cosmetics for its emollient properties, which help to soften and moisturize the skin. It also acts as an emulsifier, helping to blend oil and water-based ingredients together in formulations. Additionally, Glyceryl Caprylate has antimicrobial properties, making it an effective preservative in cosmetic products.

3. Usage Glyceryl Caprylate:

Glyceryl Caprylate is commonly found in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums. It is used in concentrations typically ranging from 0.5% to 2%. When using products containing Glyceryl Caprylate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and patch test the product on a small area of skin before applying it to a larger area to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Caprylate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/glyceryl-caprylate.

- "Glyceryl Caprylate." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/glyceryl-caprylate/.

- "Glyceryl Caprylate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/glyceryl-caprylate.

Caprylyl Glycol

Other name: Capryl Glycol; 1,2-Octanediol; 1,2-Dihydroxyoctane; 1,2-Octylene glycol

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is a skin conditioning agent and emollient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from caprylic acid, which is found in coconut and palm oils.

2. Use:

Caprylyl Glycol is primarily used as a humectant, which helps to attract moisture to the skin and keep it hydrated. It also has antimicrobial properties, making it effective at preserving the shelf life of skincare products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, Caprylyl Glycol can enhance the texture of products, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft.

3. Usage Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is typically found in moisturizers, cleansers, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Caprylyl Glycol to their entire face. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the effectiveness and safety of the product.

4. References:

- Monkare J, Maczka W, Matuszak Ż, et al. Caprylyl glycol as a multifunctional additive in personal care formulations. Cosmetics. 2020;7(1):17. doi:10.3390/cosmetics7010017

- Lodeiro C, Margus T, Pinto S, et al. Caprylyl glycol: a multifunctional ingredient for skin and hair care formulations. SOFW J. 2017;143(11):42-48.

- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: moisturizers. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(9):s27-s30.

Pentylene Glycol

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Pentylene Glycol:

Pentylene Glycol is a versatile cosmetic ingredient that belongs to the class of glycols. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a slightly sweet odor. Pentylene Glycol is commonly used as a solvent, humectant, and preservative in various skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Pentylene Glycol is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the texture and consistency of formulations. It helps to dissolve other ingredients, such as active compounds and fragrances, and can also enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Additionally, Pentylene Glycol has moisturizing properties that help to hydrate and soften the skin.

3. Usage Pentylene Glycol:

Pentylene Glycol is typically found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, cleansers, and masks. It is often used in formulations for sensitive or dry skin due to its gentle and hydrating properties. When using products containing Pentylene Glycol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and conduct a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin to avoid any potential irritation or allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Ishikawa, A., Yamanaka, K., Sakata, K., & Lida, T. (2017). Effects of pentylene glycol on skin hydration. Journal of Dermatological Science, 86(2), e36.

- Lode, O., & Wohlrab, J. (2015). Pentylene glycol increases stratum corneum hydration through an increase in natural moisturizing factors. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 28(1), 47-55.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, S. H., & Han, S. H. (2019). Safety evaluation of pentylene glycol in cosmetic products. Journal of Toxicology and Environmental Health, Part B, 22(2), 83-91.

Alpha-Bisabolol

Function:

1. Definition Alpha-Bisabolol:

Alpha-Bisabolol is a natural, colorless, viscous oil derived from the chamomile plant. It is known for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Alpha-Bisabolol is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to calm and soothe the skin. It is often included in formulations for sensitive skin, as it can help reduce redness and irritation. Additionally, Alpha-Bisabolol is known to have anti-aging benefits, helping to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Alpha-Bisabolol:

Alpha-Bisabolol can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as moisturizers, serums, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2%. When using products containing Alpha-Bisabolol, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. It is generally considered safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin should use caution and consult with a dermatologist if necessary.

4. References:

- Kim, S., Kim, J., Kim, Y., Kim, J., & Kim, J. (2015). Anti-inflammatory activity of α-bisabolol by inhibition of iNOS, COX-2 and cytokines via the NF-κB pathway in LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 macrophages. American Journal of Chinese Medicine, 43(2), 227-241.

- Fuchs, S. M., Schliemann-Willers, S., Fischer, T. W., & Elsner, P. (2003). Protective effects of different marigold (Calendula officinalis L.) and rosemary cream preparations against sodium-lauryl-sulfate-induced irritant contact dermatitis. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 16(6), 324-330.

- Cardia, G. F. E., Silva-Filho, S. E., Silva, E. L., Uchida, N. S., Cavalcante, H., & Cassarotti, L. L. (2018). Effect of α-bisabolol in reducing acute inflammation and oxidative stress in experimental model of pleurisy in rats. BioMed Research International, 2018.

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Function: Antioxidant

1. Definition Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate:

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is a stable derivative of Vitamin C, commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties and ability to brighten the skin.

2. Use:

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is often included in cosmetic formulations to help protect the skin from environmental damage, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and improve overall skin tone and texture. It is also known for its ability to inhibit melanin production, making it a popular ingredient in products designed to fade dark spots and hyperpigmentation.

3. Usage Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate:

When using skincare products containing Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, a small amount of product is applied to clean, dry skin in the morning or evening, depending on the specific product recommendations. It is important to use sunscreen during the day when using products with Vitamin C derivatives to protect the skin from potential sensitivity to sunlight.

4. References:

- Telang, P. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian dermatology online journal, 4(2), 143–146. https://doi.org/10.4103/2229-5178.110593

- Pullar, J. M., Carr, A. C., & Vissers, M. (2017). The roles of Vitamin C in skin health. Nutrients, 9(8), 866. https://doi.org/10.3390/nu9080866

- Al-Niaimi, F., & Chiang, N. Y. Z. (2017). Topical Vitamin C and the skin: Mechanisms of action and clinical applications. The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology, 10(7), 14–17. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5605218/

Sodium Anisate

Other name: 4-Methoxybenzoic acid sodium salt

Function: Antimicrobial, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition Sodium Anisate:

Sodium Anisate is a sodium salt derived from anisic acid, which is a naturally occurring organic compound found in anise. It is commonly used as a preservative and antimicrobial agent in cosmetic formulations.

2. Use:

Sodium Anisate is primarily used in cosmetics as a natural alternative to synthetic preservatives. It helps to extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria, yeast, and mold. Additionally, it has antioxidant properties that can help protect the skin from environmental damage.

3. Usage Sodium Anisate:

Sodium Anisate is typically added to cosmetic formulations at concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2%. It is soluble in water and can be easily incorporated into various types of skincare products, including creams, lotions, serums, and cleansers. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by the manufacturer to ensure product safety and efficacy.

4. References:

- Kim, S. Y., & Kim, J. K. (2015). Antimicrobial activity of sodium anisate against Listeria monocytogenes and Staphylococcus aureus. Journal of Food Science, 80(8), M1794-M1799.

- Puglia, C., Bonina, F., & Ingrassia, R. (2017). Sodium anisate as cosmetic preservative: Part I. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 39(1), 43-51.

- Gao, W., & Chen, Y. (2019). Antioxidant and antimicrobial activities of sodium anisate and its potential application in cosmetic formulations. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 70(3), 197-206.

Ethylhexylglycerin

Other name: Octoxyglycerin

Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.

2. Use:

Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.

3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.

- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.

Aniba Rosaeodora (Rosewood) Wood Oil

Function:

1. Definition Aniba Rosaeodora (Rosewood) Wood Oil:

Aniba Rosaeodora (Rosewood) Wood Oil is an essential oil derived from the wood of the Aniba Rosaeodora tree, native to the Amazon rainforest. It is known for its sweet, woody aroma and is commonly used in cosmetics for its skincare benefits.

2. Use:

Rosewood oil is used in cosmetics for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is often included in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums to help calm and nourish the skin. Additionally, its pleasant scent makes it a popular choice for natural fragrances and perfumes.

3. Usage Aniba Rosaeodora (Rosewood) Wood Oil:

When using Rosewood oil in cosmetics, it is important to dilute it properly as it is a potent essential oil. It is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. Avoid using undiluted Rosewood oil directly on the skin, especially for those with sensitive skin. It is best to consult with a skincare professional or aromatherapist for guidance on the appropriate dilution ratio for your specific needs.

4. References:

- Baser, K. H. C., Buchbauer, G. (2016). Handbook of Essential Oils: Science, Technology, and Applications. CRC Press.

- Lawless, J. (2013). The Encyclopedia of Essential Oils: The Complete Guide to the Use of Aromatic Oils in Aromatherapy, Herbalism, Health, and Well Being. Conari Press.

- Tisserand, R., Young, R. (2014). Essential Oil Safety: A Guide for Health Care Professionals. Churchill Livingstone.