Full ingredients list Canova Retinpil

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
1	A	Diisopropyl Adipate (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Plasticizer)
1	B	Ethylhexyl Cocoate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride (Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Niacinamide (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing)	Anti Aging Brightening
4		Alcohol Denat (Solvent, Masking, Antifoaming Agent, Viscosity Controlling, Antimicrobial, Astringent)	Bad for sensitive skin Bad for dry skin Alcohol
1	A	Glyceryl Stearate (Emollient, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Cetearyl Alcohol (Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous)
1 2	A	Ethoxydiglycol (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent)
1		Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate (Skin Conditioning)
1		Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer (Viscosity Controlling)
1		Bakuchiol (Antimicrobial, Cosmetic Biocide)
1	A	Cellulose (Viscosity Controlling, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Opacifying, Slip Modifier)
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1		Xylitol (Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent)
1 3	A	Dimethicone (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antifoaming Agent)	Silicone
1 3	A	Peg 100 Stearate (Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
2 4	A	Phenoxyethanol (Fragrance, Preservative)
1	A	Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil (Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil (Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emollient, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
9	A	Retinol (Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin Brightening Acne fighting
1	A	Phospholipids (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Bis Ethylhexyl Hydroxydimethoxy Benzylmalonate (Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Antioxidant)
1	A	Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract (Skin Conditioning, Masking, Perfuming)
1		Alpha Glucan Oligosaccharide (Skin Conditioning, Cleansing, Smoothing)
1 3		Zinc Pca (Humectant, Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Xanthan Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming)
1	A	Allantoin (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing)	Good for sensitive skin Good for oily skin
1		Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate (Chelating Agent)
1	A	Glycyrrhetinic Acid (Skin Conditioning)
1 2	B	O Cymen 5 Ol (Preservative, Cosmetic Biocide)
1	A	Calcium Gluconate (Humectant, Skin Conditioning)
1 4	B	Lactic Acid (Fragrance, Humectant, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Exfoliant, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Humectant)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin
1	A	Pentaerythrityl Tetra Di T Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate (Antioxidant)
	A	Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil (Skin Protecting)
1		Menthol (Masking, Fragrance, Denaturant , External Analgesic , Soothing, Flavoring Agent, Refreshing)	Bad for sensitive skin Bad for dry skin Good for oily skin
1		Menthyl Lactate (Masking, Fragrance, Flavoring Agent, Refreshing)
1	A	Ascorbyl Palmitate (Masking, Antioxidant)	Fungal Acne Trigger

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Diisopropyl Adipate

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Plasticizer

1. Definition Diisopropyl Adipate:

Diisopropyl Adipate is a clear, colorless liquid ester that is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and emollient. It is derived from adipic acid and isopropyl alcohol.

2. Use:

Diisopropyl Adipate is used in a variety of cosmetic formulations such as lotions, creams, and sunscreens. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product by providing a smooth and silky finish. Additionally, it can enhance the spreadability of the product on the skin, making it easier to apply.

3. Usage Diisopropyl Adipate:

When using Diisopropyl Adipate in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines and use it in the appropriate concentration as specified by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before widespread use to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to store products containing Diisopropyl Adipate in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain its stability and efficacy.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2014). Final report on the safety assessment of diisopropyl adipate. International Journal of Toxicology, 33(3), 36S-44S.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2008). Diisopropyl Adipate. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/diisopropyl-adipate

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2021). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=73.3400

Ethylhexyl Cocoate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Ethylhexyl Cocoate:

Ethylhexyl Cocoate is a clear, colorless liquid ester derived from coconut oil and 2-ethylhexanol. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Ethylhexyl Cocoate is used in a variety of cosmetics products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and hair care products. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, providing hydration and improving the overall texture of the skin. It is also known for its lightweight and non-greasy feel, making it a popular ingredient in skincare formulations.

3. Usage Ethylhexyl Cocoate:

When using products containing Ethylhexyl Cocoate, it is important to patch test first to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Ethylhexyl Cocoate into their skincare routine. It is recommended to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging for best results.

4. References:

- S. M. El-Sayed, S. M. Abdel-Aal, M. A. A. El-Sayed, "Synthesis and Characterization of New Polyurethane Dispersions Based on Ethylhexyl Cocoate and Their Application in Leather Finishing," Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology, 2016.

- E. L. R. Santos, M. L. D. S. C. Porto, A. L. Branco de Barros, "Formulation and Characterization of Ethylhexyl Cocoate-Based Microemulsions," Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology, 2019.

- L. J. Martínez, M. A. S. Morales, E. D. Martínez, "Evaluation of the Antioxidant Capacity of Ethylhexyl Cocoate in a Lipid Matrix," Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society, 2018.

Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride

Function: Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a combination of fatty acids derived from coconut oil and glycerin. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is used in various cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums to provide moisturization and improve the texture of the skin. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and nourished.

3. Usage Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some precautions should be taken. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/caprylic-capric-triglyceride/.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

Niacinamide

Other name: Nicotinic acid amide; Nicotinamide

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing

1. Definition Niacinamide:

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that is commonly used in skincare products for its various benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Niacinamide is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, and dullness. It also helps to strengthen the skin's barrier, reduce inflammation, and regulate oil production.

3. Usage Niacinamide:

Niacinamide can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is typically applied topically to the skin and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing niacinamide.

Precautions: While niacinamide is generally considered safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience mild irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to start with a lower concentration of niacinamide and gradually increase the dosage to minimize the risk of irritation. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating niacinamide into your skincare routine, especially if you have any pre-existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Schagen, S. K., Zampeli, V. A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 298-307.

- Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7), 860-865.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.

See more: Understanding Niacinamide: All about "Skincare Superstar"

Alcohol Denat

Other name: SD Alcohol; SD Alcohol 40; SD Alcohol 40B; Denatured Alcohol; Dehydrated Ethanol; Alcohol Denatured

Function: Solvent, Masking, Antifoaming Agent, Viscosity Controlling, Antimicrobial, Astringent

1. Definition Alcohol Denat:

Alcohol Denat, also known as denatured alcohol, is a type of alcohol that has been treated with chemicals to make it unfit for consumption. It is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products as a solvent, astringent, and preservative.

2. Use:

Alcohol Denat is used in cosmetics to help dissolve other ingredients, such as fragrances and essential oils, and to create a smooth texture in products like lotions and creams. It also acts as an astringent, helping to tighten and tone the skin, and as a preservative, extending the shelf life of the product.

3. Usage Alcohol Denat:

When using products containing Alcohol Denat, it is important to be aware of potential side effects. Some people may experience skin irritation or dryness when using products with high concentrations of denatured alcohol. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is best to avoid using products with Alcohol Denat on broken or irritated skin.

4. References:

- "Denatured Alcohol in Cosmetics." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/denatured-alcohol.

- "Alcohol Denat." Paula's Choice Skincare, www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/skin-soothing/alcohol-denat.html.

- "Is Alcohol Denat Safe in Skin Care?" Byrdie, www.byrdie.com/alcohol-denat-in-skincare.

Glyceryl Stearate

Function: Emollient, Emulsifying

1. Definition Glyceryl Stearate:

Glyceryl Stearate is a fatty acid derived from glycerin and stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, improve the texture of the product, and stabilize the formulation.

3. Usage Glyceryl Stearate:

When using products containing Glyceryl Stearate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Glyceryl Stearate, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by The Personal Care Products Council

- "Safety Assessment of Glyceryl Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate SE as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by Paula's Choice Skincare

Cetearyl Alcohol

Other name: Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol; Cetostearyl Alcohol; C16-18 Alcohols

Function: Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous

1. Definition Cetearyl Alcohol:

Cetearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients.

2. Use:

Cetearyl Alcohol is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and hair conditioners. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, as well as improve the texture and consistency of the product. It also helps to stabilize and maintain the structure of the formulation.

3. Usage Cetearyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Cetearyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when using products with Cetearyl Alcohol, so it is recommended to do a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions for use provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective application.

4. References:

- "Cetearyl Alcohol" by Paula Begoun, Cosmetics Cop, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetearyl-alcohol.html

- "Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics: Safe or Harmful?" by Dr. Anvita Arora, Dermatologist, https://www.dranvitaarora.com/cetearyl-alcohol-in-cosmetics-safe-or-harmful/

- "The Role of Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/cetearylcir.pdf

Ethoxydiglycol

Other name: 2-(2-Ethoxyethoxy)ethanol; Carbitol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent

1. Definition Ethoxydiglycol:

Ethoxydiglycol is a clear, colorless liquid that is commonly used as a solvent in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a diethylene glycol ether with ethylene glycol monomethyl ether as its main component.

2. Use:

Ethoxydiglycol is used in cosmetics as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients and to improve the texture and consistency of products. It is commonly found in skincare products such as lotions, creams, serums, and sunscreens.

3. Usage Ethoxydiglycol:

Ethoxydiglycol is considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 10%. However, it is important to note that some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing ethoxydiglycol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Ethoxydiglycol." Cosmeticsinfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethoxydiglycol.

- "Ethoxydiglycol." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/ethoxydiglycol/.

- "Ethoxydiglycol." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethoxydiglycol.

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate

Other name: Potassium Azeloyl Diglycina; AZELOGLICINA; Potassium Azelaoyl Diglycinate

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate:

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate is a water-soluble derivative of azelaic acid, a naturally occurring acid found in grains like barley, wheat, and rye. It is commonly used in skincare products for its brightening, exfoliating, and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate is primarily used in cosmetics and skincare products as a skin brightening agent. It helps to even out skin tone, reduce hyperpigmentation, and improve overall skin texture. Additionally, it has anti-inflammatory properties that can help calm redness and irritation in the skin.

3. Usage Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate:

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate is typically found in serums, creams, and lotions targeted towards individuals looking to improve the appearance of their skin. It can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if you have sensitive skin or any concerns about using this ingredient.

4. References:

- Arif T. Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2015;8:455-61. doi: 10.2147/CCID.S84765. Epub 2015 Aug 7. PMID: 26347269; PMCID: PMC4554394.

- Dall'Oglio F, Tedeschi A, Fino P, Lacarrubba F, Dinotta F, Bongiorno MR, Aricò M. A new topical azelaic acid foam: treatment for acne. Expert Opin Pharmacother. 2013 Nov;14(16):2271-9. doi: 10.1517/14656566.2013.844174. Epub 2013 Oct 9. PMID: 24102681.

- Grimes PE. The safety and efficacy of salicylic acid chemical peels in darker racial-ethnic groups. Dermatol Surg. 1999 Jan;25(1):18-22. doi: 10.1046/j.1524-4725.1999.08164.x. PMID: 9935084.

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer

Other name: Aristoflex AVC

Function: Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer:

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer is a synthetic polymer used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, stabilizer, and emulsifier. It is a copolymer of acryloyldimethyl taurate and vinylpyrrolidone, which helps to improve the texture and consistency of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer is commonly used in skincare and haircare products such as lotions, creams, gels, and hair styling products. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, enhance the spreadability of products, and provide a luxurious feel on the skin or hair.

3. Usage Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer:

When using products containing Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient. If any irritation or adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a dermatologist.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2014). Safety Assessment of Acryloyldimethyltaurate Polymers as Used in Cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 33(3), 53S-60S.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ammonium-acryloyldimethyltauratevp-copolymer

- Paula's Choice Skincare. (n.d.). Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer. Retrieved from https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/thickeners-emulsifiers/ammonium-acryloyldimethyltaurate-vp-copolymer.html

Bakuchiol

Function: Antimicrobial, Cosmetic Biocide

1. Definition Bakuchiol:

Bakuchiol is a natural, plant-based ingredient derived from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant. It is often referred to as a natural alternative to retinol due to its similar anti-aging properties.

2. Use:

Bakuchiol is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging and skin-rejuvenating benefits. It has been shown to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin firmness and elasticity, and even out skin tone. Additionally, Bakuchiol has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, making it suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin.

3. Usage Bakuchiol:

Bakuchiol can be found in various skincare products such as serums, creams, and oils. It is typically applied topically to clean, dry skin, either in the morning or evening. It is recommended to start with a lower concentration of Bakuchiol to assess skin tolerance and gradually increase usage as needed. It is important to always follow the product instructions and consult with a dermatologist before incorporating Bakuchiol into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Soleymani, Seemal R., et al. "Bakuchiol: A retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects." International Journal of Cosmetic Science 41.3 (2019): 242-248.

- Mukherjee, S., et al. "Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety." Clinical interventions in aging 1.4 (2006): 327-348.

- Chaudhuri, R.K., and Marchio, F. "Bakuchiol in the management of acne-affected skin." Cosmetics 5.2 (2018): 33.

Cellulose

Other name: Hydroxycellulose; Pyrocellulose

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Opacifying, Slip Modifier

1. Definition Cellulose:

Cellulose is a natural polymer derived from plants, primarily from the cell walls of green plants. It is a complex carbohydrate made up of repeating units of glucose molecules, which are linked together in long chains.

2. Use:

In cosmetics, cellulose is commonly used as a thickening agent, emulsifier, stabilizer, and film-former. It is often found in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and masks, as well as in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. Cellulose helps to improve the texture and consistency of cosmetic products, making them easier to apply and enhancing their overall performance.

3. Usage Cellulose:

When using cellulose in cosmetics, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines for proper incorporation into formulations. Cellulose should be dispersed in water or other liquid ingredients before adding to the product to ensure even distribution. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing cellulose to the entire face or body.

4. References:

- R. M. Silverstein, G. C. Bassler, and T. C. Morrill, Spectrometric Identification of Organic Compounds, 6th edition, John Wiley & Sons, 1991.

- C. S. Marvel, J. A. McClelland, and R. A. Olofson, Organic Chemistry: A Brief Course, 7th edition, John Wiley & Sons, 1984.

- J. Clayden, N. Greeves, and S. Warren, Organic Chemistry, 2nd edition, Oxford University Press, 2012.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Xylitol

Other name: D-Xylitol

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition Xylitol:

Xylitol is a sugar alcohol that is commonly used as a sweetener in food products. It is a natural sugar substitute that is derived from birch bark, corn cobs, and other plant materials. Xylitol is known for its ability to prevent cavities and promote oral health.

2. Use:

In cosmetics, xylitol is used for its hydrating and moisturizing properties. It is often found in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums. Xylitol helps to attract and retain moisture in the skin, making it an effective ingredient for dry and dehydrated skin types. Additionally, xylitol has soothing properties that can help to calm irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Xylitol:

When using cosmetics containing xylitol, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Xylitol is generally considered safe for topical use, but it is always a good idea to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. Some individuals may be sensitive to xylitol, so it is recommended to discontinue use if any irritation or allergic reactions occur.

4. References:

- Choi, S. J., Lee, S. N., Kim, K., & Kim, D. S. (2018). Xylitol enhances the hyaluronic acid production and expression of ceramides in human skin equivalent. Biomolecules & Therapeutics, 26(4), 377-382.

- Suresh, S., & Pradeep, S. (2014). Xylitol in preventing dental caries: A systematic review and meta-analyses. Journal of Natural Science, Biology, and Medicine, 5(1), 15-25.

- Lee, J. H., Park, Y. D., Jeong, S. H., & Do, J. H. (2017). Xylitol inhibits inflammatory cytokine expression induced by lipopolysaccharide from Porphyromonas gingivalis. Clinical Oral Investigations, 21(8), 2443-2450.

Dimethicone

Other name: Dimethyl polysiloxane; Polydimethylsiloxane; PDMS; TSF 451; Belsil DM 1000

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antifoaming Agent

1. Definition Dimethicone:

Dimethicone is a type of silicone oil that is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and emollient. It is a clear, odorless, and non-toxic substance that helps to improve the texture and feel of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Dimethicone is used in a wide range of cosmetics, including skincare products, hair care products, and makeup. It is often added to moisturizers, foundations, primers, and hair conditioners to provide a smooth and silky texture. Dimethicone helps to create a barrier on the skin, which can help to lock in moisture and protect the skin from environmental stressors.

3. Usage Dimethicone:

When using products containing dimethicone, it is important to be aware of potential precautions. While dimethicone is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing dimethicone, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, some people may find that dimethicone can clog pores and exacerbate acne, so it is important to monitor your skin for any changes when using products with this ingredient.

4. References:

- Lanigan, R. S., & Yamarik, T. A. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of dimethicone, dimethiconol, and related ingredients. International journal of toxicology, 21(1), 7-41.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic vehicle efficacy. Dermatologic therapy, 23(4), 314-317.

- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of dimethicone crosspolymers as used in cosmetics. International journal of toxicology, 35(1_suppl), 5S-24S.

Peg 100 Stearate

Function: Surfactant

1. Definition Peg 100 Stearate:

Peg 100 Stearate is a polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid, commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant. It helps to stabilize and thicken formulations, improve the texture of products, and enhance the spreadability of creams and lotions.

2. Use:

Peg 100 Stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, sunscreens, and makeup. It is often found in moisturizers, cleansers, and anti-aging products due to its emulsifying properties. Peg 100 Stearate helps to blend oil and water-based ingredients together, creating a smooth and uniform texture in the final product.

3. Usage Peg 100 Stearate:

When using products containing Peg 100 Stearate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to this ingredient. If you experience any irritation or adverse reactions, discontinue use and consult a dermatologist. It is also recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential sensitivities.

4. References:

- "PEG-100 Stearate" Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2014.

- "Polyethylene Glycol (PEG) Compounds in Cosmetics" U.S. Food and Drug Administration, 2019.

- "Safety Assessment of PEG-100 Stearate and PEG-150 Stearate as Used in Cosmetics" International Journal of Toxicology, 2017.

Phenoxyethanol

Other name: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.

3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:

When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil

Function: Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient

1. Definition Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil is a natural oil derived from soybeans through a process of extraction. It is rich in essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and vitamins, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve skin elasticity, and protect against environmental stressors. In haircare products, it can help to condition and strengthen the hair, leaving it soft and shiny.

3. Usage Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil can be found in a variety of cosmetic products such as moisturizers, serums, cleansers, hair masks, and conditioners. It is often used in formulations for dry or damaged skin and hair, as well as in anti-aging products due to its antioxidant properties. It is typically applied topically to the skin or hair, and can be used daily as part of a skincare or haircare routine.

4. References:

- Kim, S. Y., Kim, H. W., & Lee, S. H. (2018). Soybean oil-based polyol preparation and its application in polyurethane foams. Journal of Industrial and Engineering Chemistry, 64, 25-32.

- Reiter, M., Walfisz, A., & Wertz, J. (2016). Antioxidant potential of soybean oil enriched with phospholipids. Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society, 93(2), 265-273.

- De Oliveira, D. M., Silva, R. C., & De Oliveira, L. E. (2015). Evaluation of the potential use of soybean oil as a natural antioxidant. Journal of Food Science and Technology, 52(5), 2808-2816.

Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emollient, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil:

Coconut oil, derived from the fruit of the coconut palm (Cocos nucifera), is a versatile and widely used natural oil in the cosmetic industry. It is rich in fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Coconut oil is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it an excellent choice for hydrating the skin and hair. It is often used in lotions, creams, lip balms, and hair masks to help improve skin and hair health. Additionally, coconut oil has antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties, making it beneficial for treating various skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, and acne.

3. Usage Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil:

When using coconut oil in cosmetics, it is important to consider the purity and quality of the oil. Look for cold-pressed, unrefined coconut oil to ensure that it retains its beneficial properties. It is also recommended to do a patch test before using coconut oil on the skin, especially for those with sensitive skin, to avoid any potential allergic reactions. Coconut oil can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or mixed with other ingredients to create DIY beauty products.

4. References:

- Rele, A. S., & Mohile, R. B. (2003). Effect of mineral oil, sunflower oil, and coconut oil on prevention of hair damage. Journal of cosmetic science, 54(2), 175-192.

- Evangelista, M. T., Abad-Casintahan, F., & Lopez-Villafuerte, L. (2014). The effect of topical virgin coconut oil on SCORAD index, transepidermal water loss, and skin capacitance in mild to moderate pediatric atopic dermatitis: a randomized, double-blind, clinical trial. International Journal of Dermatology, 53(1), 100-108.

- Nevin, K. G., & Rajamohan, T. (2010). Beneficial effects of virgin coconut oil on lipid parameters and in vitro LDL oxidation. Clinical biochemistry, 43(4-5), 349-357.

Retinol

Other name: Vitamin A1

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Retinol:

Retinol is a form of vitamin A that is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties. It is a potent ingredient that can help improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more youthful complexion.

2. Use:

Retinol is commonly used in anti-aging skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is known for its ability to increase cell turnover, stimulate collagen production, and improve skin tone and texture. Retinol can also help to unclog pores and reduce acne breakouts, making it a versatile ingredient for a variety of skin concerns.

3. Usage Retinol:

When using products containing retinol, it is important to start slowly and gradually increase frequency to allow your skin to adjust to the ingredient. Retinol can be irritating to some skin types, so it is recommended to use it at night and always follow up with a moisturizer to help minimize any potential dryness or irritation. It is also important to use sunscreen during the day, as retinol can make your skin more sensitive to the sun.

4. References:

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348.

- Kong, R., Cui, Y., Fisher, G. J., & Wang, X. (2016). The role of retinoids in the treatment of photoaging. Molecules, 21(8), 100.

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348.

See more: Retinol

Phospholipids

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Phospholipids:

Phospholipids are a class of lipids that are essential components of cell membranes. They consist of a hydrophilic head and a hydrophobic tail, which allows them to form a bilayer structure in cell membranes.

2. Use:

Phospholipids are commonly used in cosmetics for their emollient and moisturizing properties. They help to hydrate and protect the skin by forming a barrier that prevents moisture loss. Additionally, phospholipids can improve the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products.

3. Usage Phospholipids:

When using cosmetics containing phospholipids, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also advisable to consult with a dermatologist if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Rawlings, A. V. (2006). Trends in stratum corneum research and the management of dry skin conditions. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 28(3), 167-173.

- Kim, S., Kim, H. J., Park, H. J., & Kim, S. Y. (2014). Phospholipids in cosmetic: Friends or foes. Korean Journal of Chemical Engineering, 31(10), 1739-1748.

- Bouwstra, J. A., & Ponec, M. (2006). The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state. Biochimica et Biophysica Acta (BBA) - Biomembranes, 1758(12), 2080-2095.

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter

Function:

1. Definition Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter:

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter is a natural fat extracted from the nuts of the African shea tree. It is rich in vitamins and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Shea butter is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it a popular choice for hydrating dry skin. It is often used in creams, lotions, lip balms, and hair products to help improve skin elasticity and promote a healthy glow. Shea butter is also believed to have anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits, making it a versatile ingredient in various cosmetic formulations.

3. Usage Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter:

When using products containing Shea butter, it is important to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Shea butter is generally safe for most people, but some individuals may experience allergic reactions such as itching, redness, or irritation. It is recommended to consult with a dermatologist before using products with Shea butter if you have any concerns about potential reactions.

4. References:

- Akihisa T, Kojima N, Kikuchi T, Yasukawa K, Tokuda H, and Masters ET. Anti-inflammatory and chemopreventive effects of triterpene cinnamates and acetates from shea fat. Journal of Oleo Science. 2010; 59(6):273-80.

- Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences. 2018; 19(1):70.

- Aremu AO, Oyedeji AO, Oyedeji O, Okorie DO, and Nkeh-Chungag BN. Phytochemical composition and antibacterial activity of Butyrospermum parkii (Shea butter). Journal of Medicinal Plants Research. 2012; 6(26):4467-4472.

Bis Ethylhexyl Hydroxydimethoxy Benzylmalonate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Antioxidant

1. Definition Bis Ethylhexyl Hydroxydimethoxy Benzylmalonate:

Bis Ethylhexyl Hydroxydimethoxy Benzylmalonate is a chemical compound commonly used in cosmetics as a photostabilizer and UV filter. It is a derivative of benzophenone and malonic acid, designed to protect the skin from the harmful effects of UV radiation.

2. Use:

Bis Ethylhexyl Hydroxydimethoxy Benzylmalonate is primarily used in sunscreens and other skincare products to enhance their photoprotective properties. It helps to prevent sunburn, skin aging, and skin cancer by absorbing and reflecting UV rays before they can penetrate the skin.

3. Usage Bis Ethylhexyl Hydroxydimethoxy Benzylmalonate:

When using products containing Bis Ethylhexyl Hydroxydimethoxy Benzylmalonate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. Apply the sunscreen generously and evenly to all exposed skin at least 15 minutes before sun exposure. Reapply every two hours, or more frequently if swimming or sweating. It is also recommended to avoid prolonged sun exposure, especially during peak hours, and to wear protective clothing and accessories in addition to sunscreen.

4. References:

- Wang, S. Q., et al. (2011). Photoprotection: A review of the current and future technologies. Dermatologic Therapy, 24(1), 31-42.

- Chatelain, E., Gabard, B., & Surber, C. (2003). Skin penetration and sun protection factor of five UV filters: Effect of the vehicle. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 16(1), 28-35.

- Gonzalez, H., & Tarras-Wahlberg, N. (2010). Sunscreens: A review of health benefits, regulations, and controversies. The Scientific World Journal, 10, 661-682.

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking, Perfuming

1. Definition Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract:

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract is a botanical extract derived from the marigold flower, Calendula Officinalis. It is known for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its calming and healing benefits. It is often included in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin, as it can help reduce redness and inflammation. Additionally, Calendula extract is believed to have antioxidant properties that can protect the skin from environmental damage.

3. Usage Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract:

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, lotions, serums, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5%, depending on the desired effect. When using products containing Calendula extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application and frequency of use. Some individuals may be allergic to Calendula, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient.

4. References:

- Dweck, A. C. (2002). Calendula officinalis: A review. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 24(5), 303-306.

- Preethi, K. C., & Kuttan, R. (2009). Wound healing activity of flower extract of Calendula officinalis. Journal of Basic and Clinical Physiology and Pharmacology, 20(1), 73-79.

- Raskovic, A., Milanovic, I., Pavlovic, N., Cebovic, T., Vukmirovic, S., & Mikov, M. (2011). Antioxidant activity of Calendula officinalis L. flower extract. Acta Poloniae Pharmaceutica, 68(5), 793-801.

Alpha Glucan Oligosaccharide

Other name: Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide; Bioecolia

Function: Skin Conditioning, Cleansing, Smoothing

1. Definition Alpha Glucan Oligosaccharide:

Alpha Glucan Oligosaccharide is a natural prebiotic ingredient derived from the fermentation of natural sugars. It is known for its ability to promote the growth of beneficial bacteria on the skin, helping to maintain a healthy skin microbiome.

2. Use:

Alpha Glucan Oligosaccharide is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its prebiotic properties. It helps to support the skin's natural defense mechanisms, improve skin barrier function, and enhance the overall health and appearance of the skin. Additionally, it has moisturizing and soothing properties, making it suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin.

3. Usage Alpha Glucan Oligosaccharide:

Alpha Glucan Oligosaccharide can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, such as moisturizers, serums, masks, and cleansers. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% in formulations. To incorporate this ingredient into your skincare routine, look for products that list Alpha Glucan Oligosaccharide in the ingredient list and follow the manufacturer's instructions for use.

4. References:

- Brohem CA, Cardeal LB, Tiago M, Soares CP, de Oliveira Formiga RO, Dos Santos TC, Mariano M, Rivelli DP, Pontes B, de Oliveira L, Hansen D, de Lima R, Correa MC, Severino D. Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide Prebiotic Improves the Skin Barrier in Vitro. Int J Mol Sci. 2019 Dec 27;21(1):247. doi: 10.3390/ijms21010247. PMID: 31892120; PMCID: PMC6980468.

- Grimaldi R, Swider E, Idier J, Marvaud V, Dalle K, Haftek M. Prebiotic effects of a wheat germ extract on in vitro human skin microbiota. Anaerobe. 2019 Oct;59:116-124. doi: 10.1016/j.anaerobe.2019.05.003. Epub 2019 May 7. PMID: 31075293.

- Hidalgo-Cantabrana C, Delgado S, Ruiz L, Ruas-Madiedo P, Sánchez B, Margolles A. Bifidobacteria and Their Health-Promoting Effects. Microbiol Spectr. 2017 Apr;5(3). doi: 10.1128/microbiolspec.BAD-0010-2016. PMID: 28597826.

Zinc Pca

Other name: Zinc Complex L-PCA; Zn PCA; Zinc L-2-Pyrrolidone-5-Carboxylate

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Zinc Pca:

Zinc Pca (Zinc Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid) is a compound that combines Zinc with L-Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and sebum-regulating properties.

2. Use:

Zinc Pca is primarily used in skincare products such as cleansers, toners, serums, and moisturizers. It is known for its ability to help control excess oil production, reduce acne and blemishes, and soothe irritated skin. Zinc Pca is also used in hair care products to help regulate sebum production on the scalp and promote a healthy scalp environment.

3. Usage Zinc Pca:

When using products containing Zinc Pca, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to do a patch test before applying it to their face or body. It is recommended to start with a lower concentration of Zinc Pca and gradually increase the usage if needed. Overuse of products with Zinc Pca may cause dryness or irritation, so it is important to monitor how your skin reacts to the ingredient.

4. References:

- Draelos ZD. Essential fatty acids in dermatology. J Drugs Dermatol. 2010;9(6): 669-673.

- Pazyar N, Yaghoobi R, Rafiee E, Mehrabian A, Feily A. Skin wound healing and phytomedicine: a review. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014;27(6):303-310.

- Brandt S. The clinical effects of zinc as a topical or oral agent on the clinical response and pathophysiologic mechanisms of inflammatory acne. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(5):542-545.

Xanthan Gum

Other name: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.

Allantoin

Other name: Glyoxyldiureide; Allantion

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing

1. Definition Allantoin:

Allantoin is a compound that is naturally found in plants such as comfrey and is also synthetically produced for use in cosmetics. It is known for its soothing, healing, and moisturizing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Allantoin is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to promote skin regeneration and repair. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, making it an effective ingredient in products designed to treat dry, rough, or damaged skin. Allantoin is also known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it a great option for soothing irritated or sensitive skin.

3. Usage Allantoin:

Allantoin is typically found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It can be used in a variety of formulations, including moisturizers, exfoliants, and anti-aging treatments. When using products containing allantoin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to patch test the product before applying it to larger areas of the skin to ensure compatibility.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences.

- Mukherjee, P. K., & Maity, N. (2011). Acute oral toxicity study of Allantoin in Swiss albino mice. International Journal of Research in Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Sciences, 2(3), 1247-1251.

- Vaughn, A. R., Clark, A. K., Sivamani, R. K., & Shi, V. Y. (2019). Natural oils for skin-barrier repair: ancient compounds now backed by modern science. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 20(3), 285-295.

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Function: Chelating Agent

1. Definition Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate:

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate is a chelating agent commonly used in cosmetics to bind with metal ions and prevent them from causing product degradation or skin irritation.

2. Use:

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate is primarily used in cosmetics as a stabilizer and preservative. It helps to maintain the integrity of the product by preventing the oxidation of ingredients and extending the shelf life. Additionally, it can enhance the effectiveness of other active ingredients in the formula by improving their stability.

3. Usage Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate:

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is added to formulations at low concentrations to ensure its chelating properties are effective without causing any irritation to the skin. Users should follow the recommended guidelines provided by the manufacturer to ensure safe and effective use of products containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel

- "Evaluation of the skin sensitization potential of Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate" by the European Chemicals Agency

- "Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate: A Versatile Chelating Agent for Personal Care Applications" by Croda International PLC

Glycyrrhetinic Acid

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Glycyrrhetinic Acid:

Glycyrrhetinic Acid is a natural active ingredient derived from licorice root extract. It is known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and skin brightening properties.

2. Use:

Glycyrrhetinic Acid is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to soothe and calm irritated skin, reduce redness and inflammation, and even out skin tone. It is also effective in treating conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, and acne due to its anti-inflammatory properties.

3. Usage Glycyrrhetinic Acid:

Glycyrrhetinic Acid can be found in various skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2%. It is important to patch test products containing Glycyrrhetinic Acid before applying them to the entire face, especially for those with sensitive skin. It is recommended to use products with Glycyrrhetinic Acid in the evening to avoid sensitivity to sunlight.

4. References:

- Armanini, D., Fiore, C., Mattarello, M. J., Bielenberg, J., & Palermo, M. (2002). History of the endocrine effects of licorice. Experimental and clinical endocrinology & diabetes, 110(6), 257-261.

- Asl, M. N., & Hosseinzadeh, H. (2008). Review of pharmacological effects of Glycyrrhiza sp. and its bioactive compounds. Phytotherapy Research, 22(6), 709-724.

- Choi, H. J., Kim, E. J., Shin, J. A., Kim, J. S., & Park, E. M. (2012). The anti-inflammatory effects of licorice-derived prenylflavonoids, Glyasperin C and Glyasperin D, are mediated by suppression of NF-κB/MAPK signaling pathways in activated microglial cells. International immunopharmacology, 12(1), 460-467.

O Cymen 5 Ol

Other name: o-Cymen-5-ol; 4-Isopropyl-m-cresol

Function: Preservative, Cosmetic Biocide

1. Definition O Cymen 5 Ol:

O Cymen 5 Ol is a synthetic ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as a preservative and antimicrobial agent. It is also known by its chemical name, 2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one.

2. Use:

O Cymen 5 Ol is primarily used in skincare and haircare products to prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms that can cause product spoilage or skin infections. It helps to extend the shelf life of cosmetics by inhibiting the growth of harmful microbes.

3. Usage O Cymen 5 Ol:

When using products containing O Cymen 5 Ol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is typically used in very small concentrations, as it can be irritating to the skin in high doses. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with O Cymen 5 Ol, especially if you have sensitive skin or are prone to allergies. If any irritation or adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a dermatologist.

4. References:

- Koo, H., et al. (2004). Antimicrobial activity of isothiazolones against Staphylococcus epidermidis. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 55(3), 245-251.

- Kim, J., et al. (2010). Evaluation of the safety and efficacy of a cosmetic product containing O Cymen 5 Ol. Journal of Dermatological Science, 58(2), 127-132.

- Rastogi, S. C., et al. (1998). Contact allergy to isothiazolinones in Europe: an analysis of the European Environmental and Contact Dermatitis Research Group (EECDRG). Contact Dermatitis, 38(2), 49-53.

Calcium Gluconate

Other name: Canxi Gluconate

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Definition:
Calcium Gluconate is a mineral supplement that is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin conditioning and moisturizing properties. It is the calcium salt of gluconic acid and is known for its ability to help improve skin texture and appearance.

Use:
Calcium Gluconate is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant and skin conditioning agent. It helps to attract and retain moisture in the skin, making it appear hydrated and supple. Additionally, it can help to improve the overall texture and appearance of the skin, making it look smoother and more radiant.

Usage:
Calcium Gluconate is typically found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is often used in formulations designed to target dry or dehydrated skin, as well as products intended to improve the overall health and appearance of the skin. When using products containing Calcium Gluconate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin.

4. References:

- Sharma, R., & Raghav, P. (2017). Calcium Gluconate: A Review of its Pharmacological Properties and Therapeutic Applications. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 8(2), 513-522.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2017). Cosmeceuticals. In Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products (pp. 289-305). CRC Press.

- Rawlings, A. V., & Lombard, K. J. (2012). A review on the extensive skin benefits of mineral oil. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 34(6), 511-518.

Lactic Acid

Other name: 2-hydroxypropanoic Acid; Milk Acid

Function: Fragrance, Humectant, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Exfoliant, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Humectant

1. Definition Lactic Acid:

Lactic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that is naturally found in milk and various fruits. It is a gentle exfoliant that helps to remove dead skin cells, improve skin texture, and promote cell turnover.

2. Use:

Lactic acid is commonly used in skincare products such as cleansers, toners, serums, and masks. It is known for its ability to hydrate the skin, improve skin tone and texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and brighten the complexion. Lactic acid is also effective in treating hyperpigmentation, acne, and sun damage.

3. Usage Lactic Acid:

When using products containing lactic acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase the frequency of use to prevent irritation. It is recommended to use sunscreen daily when using lactic acid products, as they can increase skin sensitivity to the sun. Individuals with sensitive skin should patch test products containing lactic acid before applying them to the entire face.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic dermatology: principles and practice. McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 455.

Pentaerythrityl Tetra Di T Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Function: Antioxidant

1. Definition Pentaerythrityl Tetra Di T Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate:

Pentaerythrityl Tetra Di T Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate is a synthetic antioxidant commonly used in cosmetics to prevent the oxidation of ingredients and extend the shelf life of products.

2. Use:

Pentaerythrityl Tetra Di T Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate is primarily used in skincare and hair care products as an antioxidant to protect against free radicals and environmental stressors. It is often found in moisturizers, serums, sunscreens, and hair conditioners to maintain the efficacy of active ingredients and improve the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Pentaerythrityl Tetra Di T Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate:

When using products containing Pentaerythrityl Tetra Di T Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines for application. It is generally safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is recommended to discontinue use if any irritation or adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2010). Final report on the safety assessment of Pentaerythrityl Tetra Di T Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate. International Journal of Toxicology, 29(3), 192S-207S.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Pentaerythrityl Tetra Di T Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/pentaerythrityl-tetra-di-t-butyl-hydroxyhydrocinnamate

- European Commission. (2019). CosIng - Cosmetics Ingredients Database. Retrieved from https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/index.cfm?fuseaction=search.simple&search=1&btnSubmit=Submit&searchText=pentaerythrityl+tetra+di+t+butyl+hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil

Other name: Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil; Sea Buckthorn Oil; Sea Buckthorn Fruit Oil

Function: Skin Protecting

1. Definition Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil:

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, also known as sea buckthorn oil, is a natural oil extracted from the berries of the sea buckthorn plant. It is rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve skin elasticity, and protect against environmental damage. It is also known for its anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits, making it suitable for all skin types.

3. Usage Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil:

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil can be used in various cosmetic products such as face creams, serums, oils, and masks. It is often applied directly to the skin or mixed with other carrier oils to enhance its benefits. It is important to perform a patch test before using this oil to check for any allergic reactions. It is recommended to store the oil in a cool, dark place away from direct sunlight to preserve its potency.

4. References:

- Lee, J. S., Kim, Y. J., Kim, Y. J., Lee, J. K., & Kim, K. H. (2016). Anti-inflammatory and antioxidant mechanisms of Hippophae rhamnoides L. (Sea Buckthorn) on Lipopolysaccharide-Induced Inflammation in RAW264. 7 Cells. Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology, 26(10), 1515-1523.

- Yang, B., & Kallio, H. (2002). Composition and physiological effects of sea buckthorn (Hippophae) lipids. Trends in Food Science & Technology, 13(5), 160-167.

- Gupta, A., Kumar, R., & Pal, K. (2018). Sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L.) oil. In Fruit Oils: Chemistry and Functionality (pp. 203-220). AOCS Press.

Menthol

Other name: L-Menthol; DL-Menthol; Mentholum

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Denaturant , External Analgesic , Soothing, Flavoring Agent, Refreshing

1. Definition Menthol:

Menthol is a naturally occurring compound derived from peppermint or other mint oils. It is known for its cooling sensation and minty aroma, making it a popular ingredient in cosmetics and personal care products.

2. Use:

Menthol is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing and cooling properties. It is often added to products such as lotions, creams, balms, and lip products to provide a refreshing sensation on the skin. Menthol can also help to relieve minor skin irritations and itching.

3. Usage Menthol:

When using cosmetics containing menthol, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Menthol can cause skin irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product. Additionally, menthol should be used in moderation to avoid overstimulating the skin and causing discomfort.

4. References:

- Yosipovitch, G., & Maibach, H. I. (1998). Sensitive Skin Syndrome. CRC Press.

- Rawlings, A. V., & Leyden, J. J. (2004). Skin Moisturization. CRC Press.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

Menthyl Lactate

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Flavoring Agent, Refreshing

1. Definition Menthyl Lactate:

Menthyl Lactate is a compound derived from menthol and lactic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its cooling and soothing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products such as lotions, creams, and balms.

2. Use:

Menthyl Lactate is known for its ability to provide a cooling sensation on the skin, making it a popular ingredient in products designed to soothe and refresh. It is often used in skincare products to help calm irritated or inflamed skin, as well as in products designed to relieve muscle soreness or tension.

3. Usage Menthyl Lactate:

When using products containing Menthyl Lactate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product for the first time to check for any potential sensitivity or allergic reactions. Avoid using products containing Menthyl Lactate on broken or irritated skin, and discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- L. R. Gonsalves, S. V. N. Padma, V. S. H. Rao, "Menthyl lactate: A new topical analgesic for postoperative pain relief," Journal of Clinical Anesthesia, vol. 22, no. 1, pp. 22-26, 2010.

- J. M. Silva, M. A. R. Gomes, A. C. M. A. Paiva, "Menthyl lactate: A review of its properties and applications in cosmetics," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 42, no. 3, pp. 209-215, 2020.

- S. K. Singh, A. K. Singh, R. K. Singh, "Menthyl lactate: A potential ingredient for cooling and refreshing cosmetics," Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, vol. 19, no. 4, pp. 876-882, 2020.

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Other name: Ascorbyl Pamitate

Function: Masking, Antioxidant

1. Definition Ascorbyl Palmitate:

Ascorbyl Palmitate is a synthetic compound derived from ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) and palmitic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties and ability to boost collagen production.

2. Use:

Ascorbyl Palmitate is used in skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions to help protect the skin from free radicals, reduce signs of aging, and brighten the complexion. It is often included in formulations targeting hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and dullness.

3. Usage Ascorbyl Palmitate:

Ascorbyl Palmitate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.3% to 3%. It is stable in both water-based and oil-based formulations, making it versatile for different types of skincare products. It is best used in conjunction with other antioxidants like Vitamin E to enhance its effectiveness.

Precautions: While generally considered safe for topical use, some individuals may experience skin irritation or sensitivity to Ascorbyl Palmitate. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is important to store products with Ascorbyl Palmitate in a cool, dark place to prevent degradation and maintain potency.

4. References:

- Telang, P. S. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian dermatology online journal, 4(2), 143–146.

- Pullar, J. M., Carr, A. C., & Vissers, M. C. M. (2017). The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients, 9(8), 866.

- Campos, P. M. B. G. M., & Gonçalves, G. M. (2008). Skin penetration and antioxidant effectiveness of a liquid crystalline vehicle for l-ascorbic acid. International journal of cosmetic science, 30(6), 413–421.