Conscious Chemist Trubiom Pigmentation & Dark Spot Corrector Gel Cream

Conscious Chemist

INGREDIENTS

Water

Niacinamide

Tranexamic Acid

Kojic Acid

Cetearyl Alcohol

Dicetyl Phosphate

Ceteth 10 Phosphate

C12 15 Alkyl Benzoate

Azelaic Acid

Polyglutamic Acid

Natural Betaine

Trehalose

Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/ Tricaprate

Hyaluronic Acid

Hydrolyzed Milk Protein

Phenylalanine

Vitamin B5

Allantoin

Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil

Sodium Lactate

Mulberry Leaf Extract*

Tomato Extract

Vetiver

Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract

Phenoxyethanol

Xanthan Gum

Benzyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Laurate

Beta Carotene

PRODUCT OVERVIEW

Quick product notes

(Click on icon for more information)

Quick product notes serve as a convenient method to determine if a product aligns with the preferences of skincare enthusiasts by being free from commonly avoided ingredients. These preferences arise due to various factors, including personal experiences, sensitivities, health considerations, and more.

Paraben free

Sulfate free

Alcohol free

Silicone free

Fungal Acne Safe

EU Allergent Free

Key Ingredients

Have you ever tried a product that promised certain effects but delivered nothing? It might have lacked key ingredients necessary for those promised results. Despite marketing claims, if a product lacks beneficial components, its efficacy is questionable.

We help you identify key ingredients known for effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV protection, and anti-aging, assisting you in making smarter skincare choices. Keep in mind that the effectiveness of key ingredients can vary; while some are well-proven, others have mixed research behind them.

Anti Aging from (2) Ingredient:

Beta Carotene Niacinamide

Promotes Wound Healing from (1) Ingredient:

Hyaluronic Acid

Brightening from (5) Ingredient:

Kojic Acid Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract Niacinamide Tranexamic Acid Azelaic Acid

Acne fighting from (2) Ingredient:

Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract Azelaic Acid

Ingredients Related to Skin Types

Click the arrows next to Skin Type! Green = Good & Red = Bad

Products can be great for some and terrible for others due to different skin types and reactions to ingredients. We've identified ingredients suitable for dry, oily, and sensitive skin types.

Dry skin

Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil

Low Risk

Beta Carotene

Low Risk

Kojic Acid

Low Risk

Oily Skin

Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil

High Risk

Allantoin

Low Risk

Sensitive skin

Allantoin

Low Risk

Oil skin

None

Ingredient Safety Breakdown (EWG Health Ratings)

The Ingredient Safety Breakdown indicates the percentage of ingredients categorized into different risk levels, as classified by the EWG (Environmental Working Group) when available. With numerous cosmetic ingredients in existence, the EWG is one of the few organizations globally that assigns ratings to many commonly used ingredients, making it a valuable reference point.

Low risk

Moderate risk

High risk

Unknown

66%

21%

INGREDIENT LIST

(Display the first 5 ingredients from a list of 29 ingredient)

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
1	A	Niacinamide (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing)	Anti Aging Brightening
1		Tranexamic Acid (Skin Conditioning, Cosmetic Astringent)	Brightening
6 7	B	Kojic Acid (Antioxidant)	Good for dry skin Brightening
1	A	Cetearyl Alcohol (Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous)
1	B	Dicetyl Phosphate (Surfactant, Emulsifying)
1 3		Ceteth 10 Phosphate (Surfactant, Cleansing)
1	A	C12 15 Alkyl Benzoate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antimicrobial)
1	A	Azelaic Acid (Masking, Fragrance, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)	Brightening Acne fighting
1		Polyglutamic Acid (Skin Conditioning)
		Natural Betaine
1	A	Trehalose (Humectant, Moisturising, Flavoring Agent)
1		Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/ Tricaprate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Hyaluronic Acid (Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Moisturising)	Promotes Wound Healing
1		Hydrolyzed Milk Protein (Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning)
1	A	Phenylalanine (Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
1		Vitamin B5 (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Allantoin (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing)	Good for sensitive skin Good for oily skin
1	A	Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)	Good for dry skin Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1 3	B	Sodium Lactate (Humectant, pH adjusting agent, Exfoliant, Keratolytic)
		Mulberry Leaf Extract*
		Tomato Extract
1		Vetiver (Masking, Perfuming, Tonic)
5		Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract (Perfuming, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)	Brightening Acne fighting
2 4	A	Phenoxyethanol (Fragrance, Preservative)
1	A	Xanthan Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming)
4 6	A	Benzyl Alcohol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Preservative, External Analgesic )	Allergen
1 3	A	Glyceryl Laurate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Surfactant, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
2		Beta Carotene (Skin Conditioning)	Good for dry skin Anti Aging

INGREDIENTS EXPLAINED Conscious Chemist Trubiom Pigmentation & Dark Spot Corrector Gel Cream

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Niacinamide

Other name: Nicotinic acid amide; Nicotinamide

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing

1. Definition Niacinamide:

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that is commonly used in skincare products for its various benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Niacinamide is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, and dullness. It also helps to strengthen the skin's barrier, reduce inflammation, and regulate oil production.

3. Usage Niacinamide:

Niacinamide can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is typically applied topically to the skin and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing niacinamide.

Precautions: While niacinamide is generally considered safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience mild irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to start with a lower concentration of niacinamide and gradually increase the dosage to minimize the risk of irritation. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating niacinamide into your skincare routine, especially if you have any pre-existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Schagen, S. K., Zampeli, V. A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 298-307.

- Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7), 860-865.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.

See more: Understanding Niacinamide: All about "Skincare Superstar"

Tranexamic Acid

Other name: Cyklokapron; Transamin; Transansamin; trans-4-aminomethyl cyclohexanecarboxylic acid

Function: Skin Conditioning, Cosmetic Astringent

1. Definition Tranexamic Acid:

Tranexamic Acid is a synthetic derivative of the amino acid lysine, known for its ability to reduce melanin production in the skin. It is commonly used in skincare products to treat hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and melasma.

2. Use:

Tranexamic Acid is primarily used in cosmetics for its skin-lightening and brightening properties. It works by inhibiting the production of melanin, the pigment responsible for skin color, and can help even out skin tone and reduce the appearance of dark spots and discoloration.

3. Usage Tranexamic Acid:

When using skincare products containing Tranexamic Acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, these products are applied topically to the skin, either as a serum, cream, or spot treatment. It is recommended to start with a patch test on a small area of skin before applying it to the entire face, as some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions. Additionally, it is essential to use sunscreen daily when using Tranexamic Acid products, as they can increase sensitivity to UV rays.

4. References:

- Kim, S. J., Park, J. Y., Shibata, T., Fujiwara, R., Kang, H. Y. (2016). Efficacy and possible mechanisms of topical tranexamic acid in melasma. Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, 41(5), 480-485.

- Na, J. I., Choi, S. Y., Yang, S. H., Choi, H. R., Kang, H. Y., Park, K. C. (2013). Effect of tranexamic acid on melasma: a clinical trial with histological evaluation. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 27(8), 1035-1039.

- Lee, S. J., Seok, J., Jeong, S. Y., Park, K. Y., Li, K., Seo, S. J., Hong, C. K. (2015). Treatment of melasma with topical agents, peels and lasers: an evidence-based review. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 16(3), 197-215.

See more: Tranexamic Acid

Kojic Acid

Function: Antioxidant

1. Definition Kojic Acid:

Kojic acid is a natural substance derived from various fungi, particularly Aspergillus oryzae, and is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-lightening properties. It works by inhibiting the production of melanin in the skin, which can help reduce the appearance of dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and other skin discolorations.

2. Use:

Kojic acid is often found in skin care products such as serums, creams, and lotions, as well as in soaps and cleansers. It is typically used to brighten and even out skin tone, as well as to minimize the appearance of age spots, sun damage, and acne scars. Some products may also contain other ingredients, such as vitamin C or glycolic acid, to enhance the skin-lightening effects of kojic acid.

3. Usage Kojic Acid:

When using products containing kojic acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. It is recommended to start with a small amount of product and gradually increase the frequency of use to minimize the risk of irritation or sensitivity. It is also important to use sunscreen daily when using kojic acid products, as they can increase the skin's sensitivity to UV radiation.

4. References:

- Sarkar, R., Arora, P., & Garg, K. V. (2013). Cosmeceuticals for hyperpigmentation: What is available? Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery, 6(1), 4–11.

- Lim, J. T. (1999). Treatment of melasma using kojic acid in a gel containing hydroquinone and glycolic acid. Dermatologic Surgery, 25(4), 282–284.

- Garcia, A., Fulton, J. E., & Huggins, J. (1999). Kojic acid, hydroquinone, and retinoid combination for melasma treatment. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 3(1), 68–72.

Cetearyl Alcohol

Other name: Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol; Cetostearyl Alcohol; C16-18 Alcohols

Function: Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous

1. Definition Cetearyl Alcohol:

Cetearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients.

2. Use:

Cetearyl Alcohol is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and hair conditioners. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, as well as improve the texture and consistency of the product. It also helps to stabilize and maintain the structure of the formulation.

3. Usage Cetearyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Cetearyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when using products with Cetearyl Alcohol, so it is recommended to do a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions for use provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective application.

4. References:

- "Cetearyl Alcohol" by Paula Begoun, Cosmetics Cop, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetearyl-alcohol.html

- "Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics: Safe or Harmful?" by Dr. Anvita Arora, Dermatologist, https://www.dranvitaarora.com/cetearyl-alcohol-in-cosmetics-safe-or-harmful/

- "The Role of Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/cetearylcir.pdf

Dicetyl Phosphate

Other name: Dihexadecyl hydrogen phosphate

Function: Surfactant, Emulsifying

1. Definition Dicetyl Phosphate:

Dicetyl Phosphate is a synthetic compound commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and emulsifier. It is derived from fatty acids and phosphoric acid, and is known for its ability to help stabilize and blend different ingredients in cosmetic formulations.

2. Use:

Dicetyl Phosphate is primarily used in skincare and haircare products such as lotions, creams, serums, and shampoos. It acts as a moisturizer, helping to hydrate and soften the skin or hair. Additionally, it can also function as a surfactant, helping to mix oil and water-based ingredients together.

3. Usage Dicetyl Phosphate:

When using products containing Dicetyl Phosphate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also advisable to avoid using products containing Dicetyl Phosphate on broken or irritated skin.

4. References:

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 16143, Dicetyl Phosphate. [https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Dicetyl-phosphate]

- Cosmetics Info. Dicetyl Phosphate. [https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/dicetyl-phosphate]

- The Personal Care Products Council. Dicetyl Phosphate. [https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-database/detail/1698]

Ceteth 10 Phosphate

Function: Surfactant, Cleansing

1. Definition Ceteth 10 Phosphate:

Ceteth-10 Phosphate is a type of fatty alcohol phosphate derived from cetearyl alcohol and phosphoric acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, surfactant, and stabilizer.

2. Use:

Ceteth-10 Phosphate is primarily used in skincare and haircare products as an emulsifying agent to help blend water and oil-based ingredients together. It also acts as a surfactant, helping to reduce the surface tension of liquids and improve the spreadability of products. Additionally, it can function as a stabilizer, helping to maintain the consistency and texture of formulations.

3. Usage Ceteth 10 Phosphate:

When using products containing Ceteth-10 Phosphate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines for application. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to ensure compatibility. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if any irritation or adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately.

4. References:

- "Ceteth-10 Phosphate." SpecialChem, www.specialchem.com/chemicals/ingredient/ceteth-10-phosphate. Accessed 15 Nov. 2021.

- "Ceteareth-10 Phosphate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ceteareth-10-phosphate. Accessed 15 Nov. 2021.

- "Ceteth-10 Phosphate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ceteth-10-phosphate. Accessed 15 Nov. 2021.

C12 15 Alkyl Benzoate

Other name: C12-C15 alkyl benzoate; Alkyl (C12-C15) benzoate; Dodecyl benzoate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antimicrobial

1. Definition C12 15 Alkyl Benzoate:

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is an ester derived from benzoic acid and a mixture of alcohols with carbon chain lengths ranging from 12 to 15. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, skin conditioning agent, and solvent.

2. Use:

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is utilized in various cosmetic formulations such as sunscreens, moisturizers, and makeup products. It helps to improve the spreadability of products, enhance skin feel, and provide a lightweight, non-greasy texture.

3. Usage C12 15 Alkyl Benzoate:

When using products containing C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines and apply as directed on the product packaging. It is generally considered safe for topical application, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before widespread use to ensure compatibility.

Precautions: While C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. If any adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional. It is recommended to avoid contact with eyes and mucous membranes.

4. References:

- "C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate" in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 14th Edition.

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2003). Final report on the safety assessment of C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). CIR Expert Panel Reaffirms Safety of C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate in Cosmetics.

Azelaic Acid

Other name: Azeleic Acid; Nonanedioic Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Azelaic Acid:

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid found in grains like barley, wheat, and rye. In cosmetics, it is commonly used for its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, making it effective in treating acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation.

2. Use:

Azelaic acid is used in skincare products such as creams, gels, and serums to help improve the appearance of skin by reducing inflammation, unclogging pores, and fading dark spots. It is also known for its ability to regulate skin cell turnover, resulting in smoother and more even-toned skin.

3. Usage Azelaic Acid:

When using products containing azelaic acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration to assess tolerance and gradually increase the frequency of use as needed. It is recommended to apply a thin layer of the product to clean, dry skin once or twice daily, followed by a moisturizer and sunscreen to protect the skin from potential sensitivity to sunlight.

4. References:

- Del Rosso, J. Q. (2013). Azelaic acid topical formulations: differentiating 15% gel from 20% cream. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 12(9), 1012-1016.

- Thiboutot, D., Dréno, B., Abanmi, A., Alexis, A., Araviiskaia, E., Barona Cabal, M. I., ... & Zouboulis, C. C. (2018). Practical management of acne for clinicians: an international consensus from the Global Alliance to Improve Outcomes in Acne. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 78(2), S1-S23.

- Kircik, L. H. (2014). Azelaic acid 15% gel: in the treatment of papulopustular rosacea. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 7(12), 27-29.

See more: Azelaic Acid

Polyglutamic Acid

Other name: Gamma-polyglutamic acid; PGA; γ-Polyglutamic Acid; r-PGA; γ-PGA

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Polyglutamic Acid:

Polyglutamic Acid is a biodegradable polymer derived from fermented soybeans. It is a water-soluble peptide that is known for its ability to deeply hydrate and plump the skin, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Polyglutamic Acid is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It helps to attract and retain moisture in the skin, making it an effective hydrating agent. Additionally, it can improve the skin's elasticity and smooth out fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Polyglutamic Acid:

Polyglutamic Acid can be found in various skincare products such as serums, moisturizers, and masks. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin, and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. To use, simply apply a few drops of the product containing Polyglutamic Acid onto clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed.

4. References:

- Choi, S. Y., Kim, H. J., Ko, H. C., Park, J. Y., & Han, S. H. (2016). The effect of poly-γ-glutamic acid on hair growth. Biomaterials research, 20, 33. https://doi.org/10.1186/s40824-016-0085-5

- Tsai, T. H., Huang, C. H., Lin, Y. C., Huang, Y. C., & Yang, L. J. (2018). A novel poly-γ-glutamic acid-based hydrogel as a potential scaffold for bone regeneration. Materials Science and Engineering: C, 91, 180-188. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.msec.2018.05.028

- Lee, H. J., Park, J. H., Seo, I. H., Park, J. K., Kim, S. J., & Jang, J. W. (2020). Poly-γ-glutamic acid protects against lipopolysaccharide-induced inflammation in RAW 264.7 macrophages. International journal of biological macromolecules, 152, 1000-1007. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2020.02.016

Trehalose

Function: Humectant, Moisturising, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition Trehalose:

Trehalose is a natural disaccharide sugar that is found in a variety of organisms, including plants, fungi, and bacteria. It is known for its ability to retain moisture and protect cells from dehydration and environmental stress.

2. Use:

Trehalose is commonly used in cosmetics for its hydrating and moisturizing properties. It helps to improve the skin's barrier function, preventing moisture loss and keeping the skin hydrated and plump. Trehalose also has antioxidant properties, which can help to protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals and environmental pollutants.

3. Usage Trehalose:

Trehalose is typically found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and masks. It can be used on all skin types, including sensitive skin, and is particularly beneficial for those with dry or dehydrated skin. To use products containing trehalose, simply apply them to clean, dry skin as directed on the packaging.

4. References:

- Yoon, H. S., Cho, H. H., Kim, M. H., & Lee, S. R. (2019). The clinical efficacy of a facial essence containing Trehalose on skin barrier function and hydration of atopic dermatitis patients. Annals of Dermatology, 31(2), 206-211.

- Chen, L., Zhang, Z., Chen, W., & Zhang, Z. (2018). Trehalose, sucrose and raffinose are novel activators of autophagy in human keratinocytes through an mTOR-independent pathway. Scientific Reports, 8(1), 1-11.

- Kim, J. H., Baek, S. H., Lee, H. J., & Kim, M. R. (2015). Trehalose prevents adipocyte hypertrophy and mitigates insulin resistance. Nutrition Research and Practice, 9(3), 249-256.

Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/ Tricaprate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/ Tricaprate:

Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/ Tricaprate is a triester derived from the reaction of trimethylolpropane with caprylic and capric acids. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/ Tricaprate is primarily used in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and sunscreens for its emollient properties. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and moisturized. Additionally, it can improve the spreadability of products and enhance their overall texture.

3. Usage Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/ Tricaprate:

When using products containing Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/ Tricaprate, it is important to patch test first to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to use caution. It is recommended to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and to discontinue use if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- "Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Tricaprylin, Tricaprylyl Citrate, Tricaprylyl Maleate, Tricaprylyl Succinate, Tricaprylyl Sebacate, Trilaurin, Triarachidin, Tribehenin, Tricaprin, Trilaurin, and Trilinolein." International Journal of Toxicology 22, no. 1 (2003): 1-10.

- "Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/trimethylolpropane-tricaprylate-tricaprate.

- "Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/trimethylolpropane-tricaprylate/.

Hyaluronic Acid

Other name: Hyaluronate; Hyaluronic Acid; Biohyaluronic acid

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Moisturising

1. Definition Hyaluronic Acid:

Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring substance in the human body that helps to retain moisture and keep skin hydrated. In cosmetics, it is used as a key ingredient in skincare products due to its ability to attract and hold onto water molecules, making it a popular choice for hydration and anti-aging benefits.

2. Use:

Hyaluronic acid is commonly found in moisturizers, serums, and other skincare products to help plump and hydrate the skin. It is known for its ability to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a smoother, more youthful complexion. Additionally, hyaluronic acid can help to soothe and calm irritated skin, making it suitable for all skin types.

3. Usage Hyaluronic Acid:

When using skincare products containing hyaluronic acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, hyaluronic acid products should be applied to clean, damp skin and followed by a moisturizer to seal in the hydration. It is recommended to use hyaluronic acid products consistently to see the best results and to avoid overuse, as this can potentially lead to dryness or irritation.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

See more: Unlocking the Secrets: Hyaluronic Acid in Skincare

Hydrolyzed Milk Protein

Other name: Milk Protein; Milk Protein Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Hydrolyzed Milk Protein:

Hydrolyzed Milk Protein is a cosmetic ingredient derived from milk that has undergone a process of hydrolysis, breaking down the protein molecules into smaller fragments. This process makes the protein more easily absorbed by the skin, providing nourishment and hydration.

2. Use:

Hydrolyzed Milk Protein is commonly used in skincare and haircare products for its moisturizing and conditioning properties. It helps to improve the skin's elasticity and firmness, as well as strengthen the hair shaft and promote hair growth. Additionally, it can help to soothe and calm irritated skin, making it a popular ingredient in products targeted towards sensitive skin.

3. Usage Hydrolyzed Milk Protein:

Hydrolyzed Milk Protein can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, shampoos, conditioners, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% in skincare products and up to 10% in haircare products. To use products containing Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, simply apply them to clean skin or hair as directed on the packaging.

4. References:

- Javed, S., Kohli, K., Ali, M., & Rehman, S. (2018). Hydrolyzed Milk Proteins and their Biofunctional Properties. Critical Reviews in Food Science and Nutrition, 58(10), 1662-1669.

- Sahu, A., & Sharma, R. (2019). Milk Proteins and their Derivatives in Skin Care: A Review. International Journal of Science and Research, 8(5), 1-4.

- Kim, S., Lee, J., & Kim, J. (2020). Effects of Hydrolyzed Milk Protein on Skin Health. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 19(3), 587-594.

Vitamin B5

Other name: Vitamin B5; VIT-B5

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Vitamin B5:

Vitamin B5, also known as pantothenic acid, is a water-soluble vitamin that is essential for the synthesis of coenzyme A, which plays a crucial role in various metabolic processes in the body. It is commonly found in foods such as meat, eggs, dairy products, and vegetables.

2. Use:

Vitamin B5 is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and skin-healing properties. It helps to improve skin hydration, reduce inflammation, and promote wound healing. It is often included in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams to help maintain healthy skin.

3. Usage Vitamin B5:

When using Vitamin B5 in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended dosage to avoid any potential side effects. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Vitamin B5 to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Zoe Diana. "Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products." John Wiley & Sons, 2015.

- Baumann, Leslie. "Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice." McGraw-Hill Education, 2009.

- Fiume, Monice M. et al. "Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmetics." International Journal of Toxicology, vol. 26, no. 2, 2007, pp. 63-88.

See more: Vitamin B5 Guide: Importance, Deficiency, and Supplements

Allantoin

Other name: Glyoxyldiureide; Allantion

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing

1. Definition Allantoin:

Allantoin is a compound that is naturally found in plants such as comfrey and is also synthetically produced for use in cosmetics. It is known for its soothing, healing, and moisturizing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Allantoin is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to promote skin regeneration and repair. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, making it an effective ingredient in products designed to treat dry, rough, or damaged skin. Allantoin is also known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it a great option for soothing irritated or sensitive skin.

3. Usage Allantoin:

Allantoin is typically found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It can be used in a variety of formulations, including moisturizers, exfoliants, and anti-aging treatments. When using products containing allantoin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to patch test the product before applying it to larger areas of the skin to ensure compatibility.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences.

- Mukherjee, P. K., & Maity, N. (2011). Acute oral toxicity study of Allantoin in Swiss albino mice. International Journal of Research in Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Sciences, 2(3), 1247-1251.

- Vaughn, A. R., Clark, A. K., Sivamani, R. K., & Shi, V. Y. (2019). Natural oils for skin-barrier repair: ancient compounds now backed by modern science. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 20(3), 285-295.

Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil:

Evening Primrose Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of the Evening Primrose plant (Oenothera Biennis). It is rich in essential fatty acids, including gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), which is known for its anti-inflammatory and moisturizing properties.

2. Use:

Evening Primrose Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its nourishing and hydrating benefits. It is often included in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams to help improve skin texture, reduce inflammation, and promote overall skin health. Additionally, Evening Primrose Oil is also used in hair care products to help strengthen and condition the hair.

3. Usage Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil:

Evening Primrose Oil can be used topically on the skin and hair. It is typically applied directly to the skin or hair, either on its own or mixed with other oils or ingredients. When using Evening Primrose Oil, it is important to do a patch test first to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also recommended to consult with a healthcare professional before using Evening Primrose Oil, especially for those with sensitive skin or existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Cheon, M. S., Yoon, T., Lee, D. Y., Choi, G., Moon, B. C., & Chun, J. M. (2014). Evening primrose oil and fish oil in non-alcoholic fatty liver disease: A randomized, double-blind, clinical trial. Archives of Pharmacal Research, 37(5), 634-643.

- Hajhashemi, V., & Vaseghi, G. (2018). Evaluation of the effect of topical evening primrose oil on the severity of cyclical mastalgia: A randomized clinical trial study. Complementary Therapies in Medicine, 38, 45-49.

- Senapati, S., & Dey, S. (2019). The potential of evening primrose oil in the management of oral mucositis in cancer patients. Journal of Cancer Research and Therapeutics, 15(6), 1192-1196.

Sodium Lactate

Other name: L-Sodium Lactate

Function: Humectant, pH adjusting agent, Exfoliant, Keratolytic

1. Definition Sodium Lactate:

Sodium Lactate is the sodium salt of natural Lactic Acid, a humectant and pH regulator commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a clear, colorless liquid that is water-soluble and has a slightly salty taste.

2. Use:

Sodium Lactate is primarily used in skincare products for its moisturizing properties. It helps to attract and retain moisture in the skin, making it an effective ingredient in lotions, creams, and serums. Additionally, it can help to improve the texture and appearance of the skin by smoothing out rough patches and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Sodium Lactate:

When using products containing Sodium Lactate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with Sodium Lactate to ensure compatibility with your skin. It is also important to store products containing Sodium Lactate in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their efficacy.

4. References:

- S. Wang, J. Li, R. Dong, J. Zhao, L. Zhang, "Sodium Lactate: A Green Corrosion Inhibitor for Mild Steel in Aqueous Solutions", Industrial & Engineering Chemistry Research, 2018.

- M. R. El-Shafei, M. R. Shaarawy, M. M. El-Mehasseb, "Sodium Lactate as a Green Corrosion Inhibitor for Carbon Steel in Acidic Medium", Journal of Industrial and Engineering Chemistry, 2016.

- M. M. El-Mehasseb, M. R. El-Shafei, M. R. Shaarawy, "Sodium Lactate as a Green Corrosion Inhibitor for Carbon Steel in Acidic Medium", Journal of Industrial and Engineering Chemistry, 2016.

Vetiver

Function: Masking, Perfuming, Tonic

1. Definition Vetiver:

Vetiver is a perennial grass native to India and is known for its aromatic roots, which are commonly used in cosmetics for their fragrance and skincare benefits.

2. Use:

Vetiver is commonly used in cosmetics for its earthy, woody scent that is often used in perfumes, soaps, and lotions. It is also valued for its skincare benefits, as it is believed to have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties that can help soothe and protect the skin.

3. Usage Vetiver:

Vetiver essential oil can be added to skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums to harness its fragrance and skincare benefits. It can also be used in aromatherapy to promote relaxation and reduce stress.

Precautions: While vetiver essential oil is generally considered safe for topical use, it is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. Pregnant women and individuals with sensitive skin should consult with a healthcare professional before using vetiver essential oil.

4. References:

- Sowndhararajan, K., et al. (2016). Vetiveria zizanioides essential oil, a potent anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory agent against clinical isolates of multi-drug resistant pathogens and in-vitro inflammatory models. BMC Complementary and Alternative Medicine, 16(1), 1-12.

- Chua, L. S. (2014). A review on plant-based rutin extraction methods and its pharmacological activities. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 150(3), 805-817.

- Srivastava, A. K., et al. (2019). Vetiver essential oil as natural source of bioactive compounds with antimicrobial, antioxidant and cytotoxic properties. Industrial Crops and Products, 139, 111526.

Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract

Other name: Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract; Licorice Root Extract; Oil Soluble Licorice (Glycyrrhiza) Extract

Function: Perfuming, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract:

Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the root of the licorice plant. It contains various compounds such as glycyrrhizin, flavonoids, and saponins, which have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin brightening properties.

2. Use:

Licorice root extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and brightening effects. It helps to calm irritation, reduce redness, and even out skin tone. Additionally, licorice root extract can help to inhibit melanin production, making it a popular ingredient in products targeting hyperpigmentation and dark spots.

3. Usage Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract:

Licorice root extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as serums, creams, masks, and spot treatments. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied directly to the skin or mixed into formulations. It is generally considered safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using products containing licorice root extract to check for any potential allergies or sensitivities.

4. References:

- Cho, S., Lee, S., Lee, M. J., Lee, D. H., Won, C. H., Kim, S. M., ... & Chung, J. H. (2009). Dietary Aloe Vera Supplementation Improves Facial Wrinkles and Elasticity and It Increases the Type I Procollagen Gene Expression in Human Skin in vivo. Annals of Dermatology, 21(1), 6-11.

- Katiyar, S. K., & Mukhtar, H. (1997). Green tea polyphenol (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate treatment to mouse skin prevents UVB-induced infiltration of leukocytes, depletion of antigen-presenting cells, and oxidative stress. Journal of leukocyte biology, 61(5), 547-556.

- Hsu, S. (2005). Green tea and the skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 52(6), 1049-1059.

Phenoxyethanol

Other name: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.

3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:

When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.

Xanthan Gum

Other name: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.

Benzyl Alcohol

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Preservative, External Analgesic

1. Definition Benzyl Alcohol:

Benzyl Alcohol is a clear, colorless liquid with a mild, pleasant aroma. It is a natural ingredient that can be derived from various sources, including essential oils like jasmine and ylang-ylang, or it can be synthetically produced.

2. Use:

Benzyl Alcohol is commonly used in cosmetics as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria, yeast, and mold. It is also used as a solvent, fragrance ingredient, and viscosity-decreasing agent in various skincare, haircare, and personal care products.

3. Usage Benzyl Alcohol:

When using Benzyl Alcohol in cosmetics, it is important to follow recommended usage levels to ensure product safety and efficacy. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has deemed Benzyl Alcohol safe for use in cosmetics at concentrations up to 1%, with some exceptions. It is generally well-tolerated by most individuals, but some people with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Benzyl Alcohol, especially if you have a history of skin sensitivities.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2008). Final report on the safety assessment of Benzyl Alcohol, Benzoic Acid, and Sodium Benzoate. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(1), 1-23.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Benzyl Alcohol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/benzyl-alcohol

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). PubChem Compound Summary for CID 244, Benzyl Alcohol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Benzyl-alcohol

Beta Carotene

Other name: CI 40800; CI 75130; β-Carotene

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Beta Carotene:

Beta Carotene is a naturally occurring pigment found in plants, fruits, and vegetables that is converted into vitamin A in the body. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties and ability to promote healthy skin.

2. Use:

Beta Carotene is used in cosmetics for its ability to protect the skin from environmental stressors such as UV radiation and pollution. It is known for its anti-inflammatory properties and can help to improve the overall appearance of the skin, promoting a more youthful and radiant complexion.

3. Usage Beta Carotene:

Beta Carotene is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and oils. It can be applied topically to the skin to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone and texture, and protect against free radical damage. It is important to follow the recommended usage instructions on the product packaging to avoid any potential irritation or adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Bhosale, P., & Serban, B. (2017). Cosmetic benefits of astaxanthin on humans subjects. Acta Biochimica Polonica, 64(3), 507-512.

- Darvin, M. E., Sterry, W., Lademann, J., & Patzelt, A. (2014). Cutaneous concentration of lycopene correlates significantly with the roughness of the skin. European Journal of Pharmaceutics and Biopharmaceutics, 87(1), 196-201.

- Lin, F. H., Lin, J. Y., Gupta, R. D., Tournas, J. A., Burch, J. A., Selim, M. A., ... & Fisher, G. J. (2005). Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skin. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 125(4), 826-832.