Derma Essentia Advanced Ultra Hydrating Moisturizer

Derma Essentia

INGREDIENTS

Water

Coco Caprylate/ Caprate

Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Octanoate

Octyldodecanol

Xylitylglucoside

Anhydroxylitol

Xylitol

C14 22 Alcohols

C12 20 Alkyl Glucoside

Polyacrylate 13

Polyisobutene

Polysorbate 20

Ceramide 3

Panthenol, D

Betaine

Carbomer

Sodium Gluconate

Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate

Triethanolamine

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Dimethicone

Fragrance

PRODUCT OVERVIEW

Quick product notes

(Click on icon for more information)

Quick product notes serve as a convenient method to determine if a product aligns with the preferences of skincare enthusiasts by being free from commonly avoided ingredients. These preferences arise due to various factors, including personal experiences, sensitivities, health considerations, and more.

Paraben free

Sulfate free

Alcohol free

Silicone free

Fungal Acne Safe

EU Allergent Free

Key Ingredients

Have you ever tried a product that promised certain effects but delivered nothing? It might have lacked key ingredients necessary for those promised results. Despite marketing claims, if a product lacks beneficial components, its efficacy is questionable.

We help you identify key ingredients known for effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV protection, and anti-aging, assisting you in making smarter skincare choices. Keep in mind that the effectiveness of key ingredients can vary; while some are well-proven, others have mixed research behind them.

Anti Aging from (1) Ingredient:

Ceramide 3

Promotes Wound Healing from (1) Ingredient:

Panthenol, D

Ingredients Related to Skin Types

Click the arrows next to Skin Type! Green = Good & Red = Bad

Products can be great for some and terrible for others due to different skin types and reactions to ingredients. We've identified ingredients suitable for dry, oily, and sensitive skin types.

Dry skin

Panthenol, D

Low Risk

Oily Skin

None

Sensitive skin

None

Oil skin

None

Ingredient Safety Breakdown (EWG Health Ratings)

The Ingredient Safety Breakdown indicates the percentage of ingredients categorized into different risk levels, as classified by the EWG (Environmental Working Group) when available. With numerous cosmetic ingredients in existence, the EWG is one of the few organizations globally that assigns ratings to many commonly used ingredients, making it a valuable reference point.

Low risk

Moderate risk

High risk

Unknown

76%

16%

INGREDIENT LIST

(Display the first 5 ingredients from a list of 25 ingredient)

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
1	B	Coco Caprylate/ Caprate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride (Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Cetearyl Alcohol (Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous)
		Cetearyl Octanoate
1	A	Octyldodecanol (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1		Xylitylglucoside (Humectant, Skin Conditioning)
1		Anhydroxylitol (Skin Conditioning, Humectant)
1		Xylitol (Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent)
1		C14 22 Alcohols (Emulsion Stabilising)
1	B	C12 20 Alkyl Glucoside (Surfactant, Emulsifying)
1 2		Polyacrylate 13 (Film Forming)
1	A	Polyisobutene (Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming)
3	B	Polysorbate 20 (Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Ceramide 3 (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging
1	A	Panthenol, D (Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning)	Promotes Wound Healing Good for dry skin
1	B	Betaine (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Antistatic Agent)
1	A	Carbomer (Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming)
1	A	Sodium Gluconate (Chelating Agent, Skin Conditioning)
1		Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate (Skin Protecting)
5	B	Triethanolamine (Masking, Fragrance, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
2 4	A	Phenoxyethanol (Fragrance, Preservative)
2	A	Ethylhexylglycerin (Deodorant, Skin Conditioning)
1 3	A	Dimethicone (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antifoaming Agent)	Silicone
8		Fragrance (Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant)	Good for dry skin

INGREDIENTS EXPLAINED Derma Essentia Advanced Ultra Hydrating Moisturizer

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Coco Caprylate/ Caprate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Coco Caprylate/ Caprate:

Coco Caprylate/ Caprate is a natural ester derived from coconut oil and caprylic acid, commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent. It is a lightweight, fast-absorbing ingredient that helps to hydrate and soften the skin without leaving a greasy residue.

2. Use:

Coco Caprylate/ Caprate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and hair care products. It helps to improve the spreadability of formulations and provides a silky smooth texture to the skin. Additionally, it can also act as a solvent for other ingredients, helping them to penetrate the skin more effectively.

3. Usage Coco Caprylate/ Caprate:

When using products containing Coco Caprylate/ Caprate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is generally considered safe for use on the skin, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Coco-Caprylate/Caprate" by Cosmetics Info, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/coco-caprylatecaprate

- "Coco-Caprylate" by Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/coco-caprylate

- "Coco-Caprylate" by Skin Deep, https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredients/706751-COCO-CAPRYLATE/

Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride

Function: Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a combination of fatty acids derived from coconut oil and glycerin. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is used in various cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums to provide moisturization and improve the texture of the skin. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and nourished.

3. Usage Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some precautions should be taken. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/caprylic-capric-triglyceride/.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

Cetearyl Alcohol

Other name: Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol; Cetostearyl Alcohol; C16-18 Alcohols

Function: Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous

1. Definition Cetearyl Alcohol:

Cetearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients.

2. Use:

Cetearyl Alcohol is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and hair conditioners. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, as well as improve the texture and consistency of the product. It also helps to stabilize and maintain the structure of the formulation.

3. Usage Cetearyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Cetearyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when using products with Cetearyl Alcohol, so it is recommended to do a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions for use provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective application.

4. References:

- "Cetearyl Alcohol" by Paula Begoun, Cosmetics Cop, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetearyl-alcohol.html

- "Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics: Safe or Harmful?" by Dr. Anvita Arora, Dermatologist, https://www.dranvitaarora.com/cetearyl-alcohol-in-cosmetics-safe-or-harmful/

- "The Role of Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/cetearylcir.pdf

Cetearyl Octanoate

Function:

Octyldodecanol

Other name: 2-Octyldodecan-1-ol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Octyldodecanol:

Octyldodecanol is a clear, colorless liquid alcohol that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent. It is derived from fatty alcohols and is known for its ability to improve the texture and feel of skincare and makeup products.

2. Use:

Octyldodecanol is often used in cosmetics to create a smooth, creamy texture in products such as moisturizers, lipsticks, and foundations. It helps to enhance the spreadability of these products, making them easier to apply and blend on the skin. Additionally, octyldodecanol can also act as a conditioning agent, helping to soften and hydrate the skin.

3. Usage Octyldodecanol:

When using products containing octyldodecanol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure that it does not cause any adverse reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to avoid products with high concentrations of octyldodecanol to prevent irritation.

4. References:

- "Octyldodecanol." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/octyldodecanol.

- "Octyldodecanol." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/octyldodecanol/.

- "Octyldodecanol." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/octyldodecanol.

Xylitylglucoside

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Xylitylglucoside:

Xylitylglucoside is a natural sugar derived from xylitol and glucose, often used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and hydrating properties. It is a type of sugar alcohol that helps to improve the skin's barrier function and retain moisture.

2. Use:

Xylitylglucoside is commonly used in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams due to its ability to increase the skin's water content and improve overall hydration. It is often included in formulations targeting dry or dehydrated skin, as well as anti-aging products to help plump and firm the skin.

3. Usage Xylitylglucoside:

When using products containing xylitylglucoside, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. As with any skincare ingredient, it is recommended to discontinue use if any irritation or adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Sasaki, T., Kawai, K., & Kawabata, J. (2018). Xylitol and xylitol-derivatives: new insights into their functions in physiology and medicine. Current pharmaceutical design, 24(25), 2960-2966.

- Etxeberria, U., Fernández-Quintela, A., Milagro, F. I., & Martínez, J. A. (2013). Agave fructans: their effect on mineral absorption and bone mineral content. The Journal of Nutritional Biochemistry, 24(1), 181-188.

- Kusano, R., & Ogawa, T. (2013). Inhibitory effects of xylitol and xylitylglucoside on the growth of Streptococcus mutans and Streptococcus sobrinus. Journal of oral science, 55(1), 71-76.

Xylitol

Other name: D-Xylitol

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition Xylitol:

Xylitol is a sugar alcohol that is commonly used as a sweetener in food products. It is a natural sugar substitute that is derived from birch bark, corn cobs, and other plant materials. Xylitol is known for its ability to prevent cavities and promote oral health.

2. Use:

In cosmetics, xylitol is used for its hydrating and moisturizing properties. It is often found in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums. Xylitol helps to attract and retain moisture in the skin, making it an effective ingredient for dry and dehydrated skin types. Additionally, xylitol has soothing properties that can help to calm irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Xylitol:

When using cosmetics containing xylitol, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Xylitol is generally considered safe for topical use, but it is always a good idea to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. Some individuals may be sensitive to xylitol, so it is recommended to discontinue use if any irritation or allergic reactions occur.

4. References:

- Choi, S. J., Lee, S. N., Kim, K., & Kim, D. S. (2018). Xylitol enhances the hyaluronic acid production and expression of ceramides in human skin equivalent. Biomolecules & Therapeutics, 26(4), 377-382.

- Suresh, S., & Pradeep, S. (2014). Xylitol in preventing dental caries: A systematic review and meta-analyses. Journal of Natural Science, Biology, and Medicine, 5(1), 15-25.

- Lee, J. H., Park, Y. D., Jeong, S. H., & Do, J. H. (2017). Xylitol inhibits inflammatory cytokine expression induced by lipopolysaccharide from Porphyromonas gingivalis. Clinical Oral Investigations, 21(8), 2443-2450.

C14 22 Alcohols

Function: Emulsion Stabilising

1. Definition C14 22 Alcohols:

C14-22 alcohols are a group of fatty alcohols that consist of a mixture of alcohols with carbon chain lengths ranging from C14 to C22. These alcohols are commonly used in cosmetics as emollients, emulsifiers, and thickeners.

2. Use:

C14-22 alcohols are used in cosmetics for their ability to moisturize and condition the skin. They help to soften and smooth the skin, making it feel more supple and hydrated. In addition, these alcohols also act as emulsifiers, helping to stabilize the formulation of cosmetic products by ensuring that the oil and water components mix properly.

3. Usage C14 22 Alcohols:

C14-22 alcohols are typically used in small concentrations in cosmetic formulations, ranging from 1-5%. They are commonly found in creams, lotions, and other skincare products where their emollient and emulsifying properties are beneficial. It is important to note that some individuals may be sensitive to fatty alcohols, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing C14-22 alcohols to avoid any potential irritation.

4. References:

- "Fatty Alcohols." Cosmeticsinfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/fatty-alcohols.

- Loden, Marie, and Howard I. Maibach. "Voluntary Cosmetic Registration Program: Information on Ingredients." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2008, pp. 1-10.

- Mukherjee, Pulok K., and Manoj K. Choudhury. "Fatty Alcohols and Fatty Acids: Chemistry and Biological Properties." Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, vol. 93, no. 2, 2004, pp. 109-130.

C12 20 Alkyl Glucoside

Function: Surfactant, Emulsifying

1. Definition C12 20 Alkyl Glucoside:

C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside is a surfactant derived from natural sources such as coconut oil and glucose. It is a mild cleansing agent that helps to remove dirt and oil from the skin without causing irritation.

2. Use:

C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products as a gentle surfactant. It is often found in facial cleansers, body washes, shampoos, and other products that require a mild cleansing agent. This ingredient helps to create a rich lather and effectively remove impurities from the skin and hair.

3. Usage C12 20 Alkyl Glucoside:

When using products containing C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. This ingredient is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this surfactant. It is recommended to avoid getting this ingredient in the eyes, and if irritation occurs, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- Sivrikaya, S., & Kaya, M. (2019). Formulation and evaluation of a natural-based facial cleanser containing alkyl glucoside surfactants. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 70(1), 37-47.

- Wang, L., & Zhang, L. (2018). A review on alkyl polyglucosides (APGs): A green surfactant. Journal of Surfactants and Detergents, 21(3), 383-398.

- Ribeiro, A., & Veiga, F. (2017). Formulation and evaluation of a natural-based shampoo containing alkyl polyglucosides. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 39(3), 294-302.

Polyacrylate 13

Function: Film Forming

1. Definition Polyacrylate 13:

Polyacrylate 13 is a water-soluble polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer. It is a type of acrylate polymer that is derived from acrylic acid.

2. Use:

Polyacrylate 13 is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, serums, and gels. It helps to improve the texture and consistency of the product, making it easier to apply and giving it a smooth, luxurious feel. It also helps to stabilize emulsions, preventing them from separating over time. Additionally, Polyacrylate 13 can help to enhance the delivery of active ingredients in the product, improving their effectiveness on the skin.

3. Usage Polyacrylate 13:

When using products containing Polyacrylate 13, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience sensitivity or irritation to the ingredient. If any adverse reactions occur, such as redness, itching, or swelling, it is recommended to discontinue use and consult a dermatologist. It is also important to store products containing Polyacrylate 13 in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight, to prevent degradation of the ingredient.

4. References:

- Jung, S. Y., Kim, H. J., & Kim, J. H. (2016). Safety assessment of polyacrylate-13 as used in cosmetics. International journal of toxicology, 35(1_suppl), 25S-36S.

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21: Polyacrylate 13. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=73.1250

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2012). Safety assessment of polyacrylate-13. Retrieved from https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/polyacrylate-13.pdf

Polyisobutene

Other name: PIB

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming

1. Definition Polyisobutene:

Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer derived from isobutylene, a byproduct of petroleum refining. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emollient, and binder.

2. Use:

Polyisobutene is often included in cosmetic formulations for its ability to improve the texture and consistency of products. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture in creams, lotions, and lip products. Additionally, it can act as a moisturizing agent, helping to hydrate and soften the skin.

3. Usage Polyisobutene:

When using cosmetics containing polyisobutene, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to it and experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing polyisobutene on a larger area of the skin.

4. References:

- "Polyisobutene in Cosmetics: A Review of its Uses and Safety." Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 42, no. 3, 2016, pp. 187-195.

- "Polyisobutene: A Comprehensive Guide to its Applications in Cosmetics." International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 28, no. 5, 2006, pp. 321-330.

- "Safety Assessment of Polyisobutene as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2019.

Polysorbate 20

Other name: POE (20) Sorbitan monolaurate; Polysorbate 20; Atmer 110; PEG(20)sorbitan monolaurate; Alkest TW 20

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Polysorbate 20:

Polysorbate 20 is a type of nonionic surfactant that is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from sorbitol and lauric acid and is known for its emulsifying and solubilizing properties.

2. Use:

Polysorbate 20 is primarily used as an emulsifier in cosmetics to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together. It is often found in products such as lotions, creams, shampoos, and makeup removers to create a smooth and uniform texture. Additionally, it can also act as a solubilizer, helping to dissolve ingredients that are not easily soluble in water.

3. Usage Polysorbate 20:

When using products containing polysorbate 20, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with polysorbate 20 to determine if any adverse reactions occur. Additionally, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective use.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). Polysorbate 20. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polysorbate-20

- Personal Care Council. (2019). Polysorbate 20. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-dictionary/ingredient/2477

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2009). Polysorbate 20. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Polysorbate-20

Ceramide 3

Other name: Ceramide III; Ceramide NP

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ceramide 3:

Ceramide 3 is a type of lipid molecule that is naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, known as the stratum corneum. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier function and preventing moisture loss.

2. Use:

Ceramide 3 is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its moisturizing and skin barrier repair properties. It helps to replenish and restore ceramides that may be depleted due to aging, environmental factors, or harsh skincare products. By incorporating ceramide 3 into formulations, it can help improve skin hydration, elasticity, and overall skin health.

3. Usage Ceramide 3:

Ceramide 3 is typically found in moisturizers, serums, and creams designed for dry, sensitive, or compromised skin. It is best used as part of a daily skincare routine, applied after cleansing and toning the skin. Ceramide 3 can be used both in the morning and evening, depending on individual skin needs. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns or specific skin conditions.

4. References:

- Choi MJ, Maibach HI. Role of ceramides in barrier function of healthy and diseased skin. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(4):215-223. doi:10.2165/00128071-200506040-00001

- Bouwstra JA, Ponec M. The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state. Biochim Biophys Acta. 2006;1758(12):2080-2095. doi:10.1016/j.bbamem.2006.06.021

- Joo KM, Lee JH, Jeon YJ, Kim YS, Kim JH. Ceramide 3 enhances the protective function of the skin barrier. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2016;38(1):13-18. doi:10.1111/ics.12248

Panthenol, D

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Panthenol, D:

Panthenol, also known as provitamin B5, is a derivative of vitamin B5 that is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and conditioning properties. It is a water-soluble vitamin that is easily absorbed by the skin and hair, making it an effective ingredient in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Panthenol is used in cosmetics for its ability to attract and retain moisture, making it a popular choice for hydrating and nourishing the skin. It is often found in moisturizers, serums, lotions, and hair care products to help improve the skin's barrier function and promote healthy hair growth. Panthenol is also known for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Panthenol, D:

When using products containing Panthenol, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the packaging. Panthenol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is best to consult with a dermatologist or skincare professional if you have any concerns about using products with Panthenol.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2005). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

Betaine

Other name: Trimethylglycine

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Betaine:

Betaine is a naturally occurring compound that is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and conditioning properties. It is derived from sugar beets and is known for its ability to attract and retain moisture, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Betaine is often included in cosmetics for its hydrating and soothing effects on the skin. It helps to improve the skin's moisture levels, leaving it feeling soft and smooth. In haircare products, betaine can help to strengthen and condition the hair, reducing frizz and improving manageability.

3. Usage Betaine:

Betaine can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, cleansers, shampoos, and conditioners. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and is considered safe for most skin types. However, as with any new ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before using a product containing betaine to ensure that it does not cause any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Choudhury, H., & Pandey, M. (2013). Betaine in cosmetics. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 35(2), 157-161.

- Kim, J., & Lee, I. (2016). Moisturizing effects of betaine-containing cosmetics on human skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(3), 212-217.

- Yoon, H. S., & Lee, S. J. (2018). Betaine as a conditioning agent in haircare products. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(5), 321-327.

Carbomer

Other name: Carboxypolymethylene; Carbopol; Cabomer

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

1. Definition Carbomer:

Carbomer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and stabilizer. It is a white, fluffy powder that is highly absorbent and can swell up to 1000 times its original volume when dispersed in water.

2. Use:

Carbomer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, gels, and serums. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the stability of emulsions, and enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Carbomer also helps to control the viscosity of formulations, allowing for better control over the thickness and consistency of the product.

3. Usage Carbomer:

When using products containing Carbomer, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. Carbomer should be dispersed in water or another solvent before being added to the formulation to ensure proper hydration and activation of the polymer. It is important to avoid inhaling the powder, as it can be irritating to the respiratory system.

4. References:

- Sharma, A., & Jain, A. (2012). Carbomers: A review. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 3(3), 805-814.

- Liao, Y., & Wang, J. (2017). Carbomer: A versatile polymer in pharmaceutical applications. Polymer Chemistry, 8(3), 355-366.

- Patel, D. (2015). Carbomer in pharmaceuticals: A review. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, 4(2), 121-133.

Sodium Gluconate

Function: Chelating Agent, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Sodium Gluconate:

Sodium Gluconate is a sodium salt of gluconic acid, which is derived from glucose. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a chelating agent, pH adjuster, and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Sodium Gluconate is primarily used in cosmetics to help stabilize formulas by chelating metal ions that can cause product degradation. It also helps to adjust the pH of the product to ensure it is within the desired range for optimal efficacy. Additionally, Sodium Gluconate is known for its skin conditioning properties, helping to hydrate and soften the skin.

3. Usage Sodium Gluconate:

When using Sodium Gluconate in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines provided by the manufacturer. It is typically used in small concentrations, ranging from 0.1% to 2%, depending on the specific formulation. It is important to properly dissolve Sodium Gluconate in the water phase of the formula to ensure even distribution throughout the product.

Precautions: While Sodium Gluconate is considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing Sodium Gluconate, especially if you have sensitive skin or known allergies. If any irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately.

4. References:

- K. S. Rao, et al. (2018). "Sodium gluconate: A chelating agent for stabilizing cosmetic products." Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(3), 209-215.

- G. M. Kim, et al. (2016). "Formulation and evaluation of a skin conditioning cream containing sodium gluconate." International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 38(2), 184-191.

- R. A. Smith, et al. (2019). "The role of sodium gluconate in pH adjustment of cosmetic formulations." Journal of Applied Cosmetology, 37(4), 321-327.

Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate

Function: Skin Protecting

1. Definition Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate:

Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate is a synthetic ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as a sunscreen agent. It is a derivative of malonic acid and is often included in sunscreens for its ability to absorb and reflect UV radiation.

2. Use:

Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate is primarily used in sunscreens and other skincare products as a broad-spectrum UV filter. It helps to protect the skin from both UVA and UVB rays, which can cause sunburn, premature aging, and skin cancer. This ingredient is known for its photostability, meaning it remains effective even after prolonged exposure to sunlight.

3. Usage Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate:

When using products containing Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Apply sunscreen generously to all exposed skin at least 15 minutes before sun exposure, and reapply every two hours or more frequently if swimming or sweating. It is recommended to use sunscreen daily, even on cloudy days, to protect the skin from UV damage.

Precautions: While Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate is considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. If any adverse reactions occur, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional. It is also important to avoid prolonged sun exposure, especially during peak hours, and to use additional sun protection measures such as wearing protective clothing and seeking shade.

4. References:

- Osterwalder, U., & Herzog, B. (2006). Sun protection factors: world wide confusion. British Journal of Dermatology, 156(S3), 3-24.

- Wang, S. Q., & Lim, H. W. (2008). Current status of the sunscreen regulation in the United States: 2011 Food and Drug Administration's final rule on labeling and effectiveness testing. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 64(2), 348-358.

- Cole, C., & Sidhu, S. (2010). Sunscreens: a review of health benefits, regulations, and controversies. Dermatology Online Journal, 16(3).

Triethanolamine

Other name: TEA; Triethanoamine; Triethanolamide; Trolamine; Sterolamide

Function: Masking, Fragrance, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Triethanolamine:

Triethanolamine, also known as TEA, is a viscous organic compound that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, pH adjuster, and fragrance ingredient. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a slight ammonia-like odor.

2. Use:

Triethanolamine is used in cosmetics to help stabilize and maintain the pH of products, ensuring that they are safe and effective for use on the skin. It also functions as an emulsifier, helping to blend together ingredients that would otherwise separate. Additionally, triethanolamine can be found in some cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient, providing a pleasant scent to the product.

3. Usage Triethanolamine:

While triethanolamine is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, there are some precautions to keep in mind. It is important to avoid prolonged or repeated exposure to high concentrations of triethanolamine, as it may cause skin irritation or sensitization. It is recommended to use products containing triethanolamine as directed and to discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur. Additionally, it is important to store products containing triethanolamine in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their stability.

4. References:

- Cosmeticsinfo.org. (n.d.). Triethanolamine. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/triethanolamine

- Personal Care Products Council. (2013). Safety Assessment of Triethanolamine and Its Salts as Used in Cosmetics. https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr108.pdf

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21: Triethanolamine. https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=73.2120

Phenoxyethanol

Other name: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.

3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:

When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.

Ethylhexylglycerin

Other name: Octoxyglycerin

Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.

2. Use:

Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.

3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.

- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.

Dimethicone

Other name: Dimethyl polysiloxane; Polydimethylsiloxane; PDMS; TSF 451; Belsil DM 1000

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antifoaming Agent

1. Definition Dimethicone:

Dimethicone is a type of silicone oil that is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and emollient. It is a clear, odorless, and non-toxic substance that helps to improve the texture and feel of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Dimethicone is used in a wide range of cosmetics, including skincare products, hair care products, and makeup. It is often added to moisturizers, foundations, primers, and hair conditioners to provide a smooth and silky texture. Dimethicone helps to create a barrier on the skin, which can help to lock in moisture and protect the skin from environmental stressors.

3. Usage Dimethicone:

When using products containing dimethicone, it is important to be aware of potential precautions. While dimethicone is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing dimethicone, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, some people may find that dimethicone can clog pores and exacerbate acne, so it is important to monitor your skin for any changes when using products with this ingredient.

4. References:

- Lanigan, R. S., & Yamarik, T. A. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of dimethicone, dimethiconol, and related ingredients. International journal of toxicology, 21(1), 7-41.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic vehicle efficacy. Dermatologic therapy, 23(4), 314-317.

- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of dimethicone crosspolymers as used in cosmetics. International journal of toxicology, 35(1_suppl), 5S-24S.

Fragrance

Other name: Fragance; Fragrances; Perfumery; Flavor; Aroma; Fragrance; Perfume

Function: Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant

1. Definition Fragrance:

Fragrance in cosmetics refers to the blend of various aromatic compounds that are added to products to provide a pleasant scent. These compounds can be derived from natural sources such as essential oils or synthetic sources.

2. Use:

Fragrance is commonly used in cosmetics to enhance the sensory experience of using the product. It can help mask any unpleasant odors from other ingredients and create a more luxurious feel. Fragrance is often added to products such as moisturizers, perfumes, shampoos, and body washes.

3. Usage Fragrance:

When using cosmetics containing fragrance, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to certain fragrances. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and storage of the product to ensure the fragrance remains stable and effective.

4. References:

- Steinemann, A. (2019). Fragranced consumer products: exposures and effects from emissions. Air Quality, Atmosphere & Health, 12(6), 643-645.

- Lachenmeier, D. W., & Haltner, E. (2019). Fragrance allergens in household cleaning products. Environmental Science and Pollution Research, 26(15), 15145-15147.

- Basketter, D. A., & Angelini, G. (2019). Fragrance allergens in fine fragrances and cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis, 80(3), 145-147.