Full ingredients list Derma Formula Herbal Anti Aging Essence ...

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1	A	Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent)
1 3		C15 19 Alkane (Solvent)
1	A	Squalane (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Refatting)
1	A	Ethylene/ Propylene/ Styrene Copolymer (Viscosity Controlling)
1	A	Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil (Humectant, Hair Conditioning)
1	A	Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil (Emollient, Humectant, Skin Protecting)
1	A	Oleyl Alcohol (Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Fragrance, Viscosity Controlling, Emulsifying, Opacifying, Viscosity Increasingagent - Nonaqueous)	Bad for oily skin
1	A	Butylene/ Ethylene/ Styrene Copolymer (Viscosity Controlling)
1	A	Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Lupinus Albus Seed Oil (Skin Conditioning)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Dioscorea Villosa (Wild Yam) Root Extract (Skin Conditioning)
2 3	A	Tocopheryl Acetate (Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)	Anti Aging
1	A	Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil Unsaponifiables (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning)
1	A	Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride (Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1		Pistacia Lentiscus (Mastic) Gum (Perfuming, Fragrance, Film Forming, Adhesive)
1	A	Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil (Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emollient, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
3	A	Bht (Masking, Fragrance, Antioxidant)
1	A	Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Seed Oil
1	A	Octyldodecanol (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	B	Octyldodecyl Oleate (Emollient, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive)
1	A	Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate (Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive)
1		Tocopherol	Good for dry skin Anti Aging
1		Gardenia Tahitensis Flower (Skin Conditioning)
1		Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract (Skin Protecting)
1	B	Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract (Perfuming, Fragrance, Antioxidant, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Miscellaneous, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive, Antimicrobial Agent)

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Other name: Hydrogenated Polyisobutylene

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent

1. Definition Hydrogenated Polyisobutene:

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic ingredient commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products. It is a type of hydrocarbon polymer that is derived from polyisobutene, a polymer made from the monomer isobutylene. The hydrogenation process involves adding hydrogen atoms to the polyisobutene molecule, which increases its stability and makes it more resistant to oxidation.

2. Use:

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emollient, and moisturizer. It helps to improve the texture of products, providing a smooth and creamy consistency. Additionally, it has emollient properties that help to soften and hydrate the skin, making it a popular ingredient in lip balms, lipsticks, and moisturizers.

3. Usage Hydrogenated Polyisobutene:

When using products containing Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions or sensitivities to the ingredient. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is recommended to follow the instructions for use provided by the manufacturer and discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- M. Paye, H. Cozien, and J. L. Leveque, "Hydrogenated Polyisobutene: A New Synthetic Raw Material for Cosmetics," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 21, no. 4, pp. 197-208, 1999.

- L. B. Smith, K. A. Johnson, and S. D. Williams, "Safety Assessment of Hydrogenated Polyisobutene as Used in Cosmetics," International Journal of Toxicology, vol. 37, no. 1, pp. 59-68, 2018.

- P. K. Gupta and R. S. Gaur, "Hydrogenated Polyisobutene: A Review on its Properties and Applications in Cosmetics," Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 69, no. 2, pp. 95-106, 2018.

C15 19 Alkane

Function: Solvent

1. Definition C15 19 Alkane:

C15-19 Alkane is a mixture of linear alkanes with carbon chain lengths ranging from 15 to 19. These alkanes are saturated hydrocarbons that are derived from natural sources such as petroleum or plant oils.

2. Use:

C15-19 Alkanes are commonly used in cosmetics as emollients and conditioning agents. They help to soften and smooth the skin, providing a silky and moisturized feel. These alkanes also act as occlusives, forming a protective barrier on the skin to prevent moisture loss and improve the overall hydration of the skin.

3. Usage C15 19 Alkane:

C15-19 Alkanes are found in a variety of skincare and haircare products such as moisturizers, serums, creams, lotions, and hair conditioners. They are often used in formulations for their lightweight texture, non-greasy feel, and ability to enhance the spreadability of products. When using products containing C15-19 Alkanes, it is important to patch test first to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the product instructions and avoid contact with the eyes.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2015). Final report on the safety assessment of C13-16 isoparaffin.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Alkanes. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org.

- International Journal of Cosmetic Science. (2008). An overview of the safety of alkanes.

Squalane

Other name: Perhydrosqualene; Pripure 3759

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Refatting

1. Definition Squalane:

Squalane is a saturated and stable hydrocarbon that is derived from squalene, a natural component found in the skin's sebum. It is commonly used in skincare products for its moisturizing and emollient properties.

2. Use:

Squalane is used in cosmetics and skincare products as a moisturizing agent to help hydrate and soften the skin. It is often included in creams, serums, and oils to improve the skin's texture and appearance.

3. Usage Squalane:

Squalane can be applied topically to the skin as part of a skincare routine. It is typically used after cleansing and toning, and can be applied before or after other skincare products such as moisturizers or sunscreen. Squalane is well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, and can help to improve the skin's hydration levels and overall health.

Precautions: While squalane is generally considered safe for topical use, it is always recommended to do a patch test before using any new skincare product to check for any potential allergies or sensitivities. Additionally, individuals with specific skin conditions or concerns should consult with a dermatologist before incorporating squalane into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2005). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2015). Cosmeceuticals. Philadelphia: Saunders.

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327-348.

Ethylene/ Propylene/ Styrene Copolymer

Function: Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Ethylene/ Propylene/ Styrene Copolymer:

Ethylene/ Propylene/ Styrene Copolymer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a film-forming agent and viscosity increasing agent. It is a copolymer of ethylene, propylene, and styrene, which helps to improve the texture and performance of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Ethylene/ Propylene/ Styrene Copolymer is used in cosmetics to enhance the stability and consistency of products such as creams, lotions, and makeup. It helps to create a smooth and even application, while also providing a protective barrier on the skin to lock in moisture and prevent evaporation.

3. Usage Ethylene/ Propylene/ Styrene Copolymer:

When using cosmetics containing Ethylene/ Propylene/ Styrene Copolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is recommended to avoid contact with the eyes and mucous membranes, and to discontinue use if any irritation or adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- "Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer." Cosmeticsinfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylene-propylene-styrene-copolymer.

- "Safety Assessment of Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer and Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2019, https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/EPSCBES%20combined%20report.pdf.

- "Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer." Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylene-propylene-styrene-copolymer.

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil:

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, also known as Marula oil, is a natural oil extracted from the kernels of the Marula fruit, which is native to Southern Africa. It is rich in antioxidants, essential fatty acids, and vitamins E and C, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, nourishing, and anti-aging properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, improve skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. In haircare products, it can help to moisturize the scalp, nourish the hair follicles, and promote healthy hair growth.

3. Usage Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil:

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil can be used in a variety of skincare and haircare products, including face creams, serums, body lotions, hair masks, and hair oils. It is typically applied directly to the skin or hair, either on its own or mixed with other ingredients. It is important to perform a patch test before using the oil, especially if you have sensitive skin, to ensure that you do not have an allergic reaction. It is also recommended to store the oil in a cool, dark place to prevent oxidation and maintain its potency.

4. References:

- Maranz, S., & Wiesman, Z. (2003). Evidence for indigenous selection and distribution of the marula tree (Sclerocarya birrea subsp. caffra) in Southern Africa. Agroforestry Systems, 59(3), 217-228.

- Van Wyk, B. E., & Gericke, N. (2000). People's plants: A guide to useful plants of southern Africa. Briza Publications.

- Franz, C., & Novak, J. (2003). Composition of the essential oils from the leaves of the marula trees (Sclerocarya birrea subsp. caffra). Journal of Essential Oil Research, 15(5), 335-337.

Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil

Function: Emollient, Humectant, Skin Protecting

1. Definition Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil:

Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil, also known as Sacha Inchi Oil, is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of the Plukenetia volubilis plant. This oil is rich in essential fatty acids, particularly omega-3 and omega-6, as well as antioxidants and vitamins E and A.

2. Use:

Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve its elasticity, and protect it from environmental damage. This oil is lightweight and non-greasy, making it suitable for all skin types, including oily and acne-prone skin.

3. Usage Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil:

Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil can be used in various skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and facial oils. It can be applied directly to the skin or mixed with other oils or ingredients to enhance its benefits. To use, simply apply a few drops of the oil to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. It can also be used on the hair to add shine and moisture.

4. References:

- Paula, A. P. A., Souza, M. C., Tresvenzol, L. M. F., Pinto, C. A. S. O., & Paula, J. R. (2012). Sacha inchi oil (Plukenetia volubilis L.): a review. Journal of Food Science, 77(11), R141-R147.

- Nascimento, J. R. O., Oliveira, L. A. G., & Barbosa, A. P. F. (2017). Sacha inchi (Plukenetia volubilis L.): a seed oil source of polyunsaturated fatty acids and tocopherols for food application. Food Research International, 100, 482-488.

- Cisneros, F. H., & Cisneros-Zevallos, L. (2012). Bioactive compounds from Mexican varieties of the common bean (Phaseolus vulgaris): implications for health. In Advances in bean production (pp. 371-401). Nova Science Publishers.

Oleyl Alcohol

Other name: Oleic Alcohol

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Fragrance, Viscosity Controlling, Emulsifying, Opacifying, Viscosity Increasingagent - Nonaqueous

1. Definition Oleyl Alcohol:

Oleyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol derived from oleic acid, a natural fatty acid found in various vegetable oils. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent.

2. Use:

Oleyl Alcohol is known for its ability to moisturize and condition the skin, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to improve the texture and consistency of products, giving them a smooth and luxurious feel.

3. Usage Oleyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Oleyl Alcohol, it is important to patch test first to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to avoid products with high concentrations of this ingredient. It is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and consult a dermatologist if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- "Oleyl Alcohol" by Cosmeticsinfo.org

- "Oleyl Alcohol in Cosmetics" by Personal Care Magazine

- "Safety Assessment of Oleyl Alcohol and Related Fatty Alcohols as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review

Butylene/ Ethylene/ Styrene Copolymer

Function: Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Butylene/ Ethylene/ Styrene Copolymer:

Butylene/ Ethylene/ Styrene Copolymer is a type of copolymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and emulsifier. It is a polymer that is made up of repeating units of butylene, ethylene, and styrene monomers.

2. Use:

Butylene/ Ethylene/ Styrene Copolymer is primarily used in cosmetics to help stabilize and thicken formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums, as well as in makeup products like foundations, lipsticks, and mascaras. This copolymer helps to improve the texture and consistency of the product, making it easier to apply and ensuring that it stays emulsified.

3. Usage Butylene/ Ethylene/ Styrene Copolymer:

When using products containing Butylene/ Ethylene/ Styrene Copolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. This copolymer is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using a product containing this ingredient. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if irritation occurs, it is recommended to discontinue use.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of Butylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol Alginate, Butylene Glycol, Ethoxydiglycol, and Butylene Glycol" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel

- "Polymer Chemistry: An Introduction" by Malcolm P. Stevens

- "Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology" edited by André O. Barel, Marc Paye, and Howard I. Maibach

Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil:

Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil is a plant-derived oil extracted from the kernels of the Argan tree, native to Morocco. It is rich in essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and vitamins, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Argan Kernel Oil is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it a versatile ingredient in cosmetics. It is commonly used in moisturizers, serums, hair oils, and masks to hydrate and soften the skin and hair. It is also believed to have anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits, helping to improve the overall health and appearance of the skin.

3. Usage Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil:

When using Argan Kernel Oil in cosmetics, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. It can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or mixed with other ingredients to create customized skincare or haircare products. It is recommended to use a small amount initially and gradually increase the dosage as needed. Avoid contact with eyes and discontinue use if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- Schmitt, L., Maranz, S., Akermi, M., & Delaveau, P. (2003). Effect of argan oil on platelet aggregation and bleeding time: a beneficial nutritional property. Journal of Nutritional Biochemistry, 14(4), 220-225.

- Ait-Ouazzou, A., Lorán, S., González-Ferrero, C., Aranda, C., Rota, C., Herrera, A., ... & Espina, L. (2011). Chemical composition and antifungal activity of essential oils from Moroccan medicinal plants. Journal of medical plants research, 5(23), 5728-5736.

- Khallouki, F., Younos, C., Soulimani, R., Oster, T., Charrouf, Z., & Spiegelhalder, B. (2003). Consumption of argan oil (Morocco) with its unique profile of fatty acids, tocopherols, squalene, sterols and phenolic compounds should confer valuable cancer chemopreventive effects. European Journal of Cancer Prevention, 12(1), 67-75.

Lupinus Albus Seed Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Lupinus Albus Seed Oil:

Lupinus Albus Seed Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of the Lupinus Albus plant, also known as white lupin. It is rich in essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and vitamins, making it a valuable ingredient in skincare and hair care products.

2. Use:

Lupinus Albus Seed Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. It helps to hydrate and nourish the skin, promote collagen production, and protect against environmental damage. In hair care products, it can help to strengthen and condition the hair, improve manageability, and add shine.

3. Usage Lupinus Albus Seed Oil:

Lupinus Albus Seed Oil can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, facial oils, hair masks, and conditioners. It is typically used in small concentrations and can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or incorporated into formulations. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and mature skin, and can be used daily as part of a skincare or hair care routine.

4. References:

- Puglia C, et al. (2015). Chemical composition and antioxidant properties of seed oil from Lupinus albus L. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25900791/

- Lopes G, et al. (2017). White Lupin (Lupinus albus L.) Seed Oil: A Rich Source of Alpha-Linolenic Acid with Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Properties. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28587226/

- Gómez-Caravaca AM, et al. (2019). Lupinus albus Seed Oil: A Potential New Source of Health-Beneficial Omega-3 Fatty Acids. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/31561475/

Dioscorea Villosa (Wild Yam) Root Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Dioscorea Villosa (Wild Yam) Root Extract:

Dioscorea Villosa (Wild Yam) Root Extract is a botanical ingredient derived from the root of the wild yam plant. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Dioscorea Villosa Root Extract is known for its ability to help calm and soothe irritated skin, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products designed for sensitive or inflamed skin. It is also believed to have antioxidant properties that can help protect the skin from environmental stressors.

3. Usage Dioscorea Villosa (Wild Yam) Root Extract:

Dioscorea Villosa Root Extract is typically found in creams, lotions, serums, and masks. It can be used in both leave-on and rinse-off products. When using products containing this ingredient, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. As with any new skincare ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to ensure compatibility.

4. References:

- Lee, J. H., Kim, Y. G., & Ra, J. C. (2015). Effects of Dioscorea batatas Decne. root on atopic dermatitis-like skin lesions in NC/Nga mice. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 174, 192-200.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, Y. G., & Ra, J. C. (2016). Anti-inflammatory effect of Dioscorea batatas Decne. root on macrophages activated by LPS stimulation. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 178, 129-137.

- Kim, Y. G., Lee, J. H., & Ra, J. C. (2017). Skin protective effects of Dioscorea batatas Decne. root against UVB-induced damage in vitro and in vivo. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 206, 189-197.

Tocopheryl Acetate

Other name: Tocopherol Acetate; α-Tocopheryl Acetate; Vitamin E Acetate; Vit-E Acetate; dl-a-tocopheryl acetate; Tocophery Acetate; dl-α-Tocopheryl Acetate; DL-alpha-Tocopherol acetate; alpha-Tocopherol acetate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Tocopheryl Acetate:

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products. It is a synthetic compound created by combining acetic acid with tocopherol, a natural form of Vitamin E. Tocopheryl Acetate is known for its antioxidant properties, which help protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopheryl Acetate is often included in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and anti-aging benefits. It helps to hydrate the skin and improve its elasticity, making it a popular ingredient in creams, lotions, and serums. Tocopheryl Acetate also has soothing properties that can help calm irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Tocopheryl Acetate:

When using products containing Tocopheryl Acetate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and apply the product as directed. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. It is recommended to store products containing Tocopheryl Acetate in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain its stability and effectiveness.

4. References:

- Cosmetics Info. (n.d.). Tocopheryl Acetate. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/tocopheryl-acetate

- Paula's Choice. (n.d.). Vitamin E for Skin. Retrieved from https://www.paulaschoice.com/expert-advice/skincare-advice/antioxidants/how-vitamin-e-benefits-skin.html

- Healthline. (2021). The Benefits of Vitamin E for Your Skin. Retrieved from https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/vitamin-e-for-skin#benefits

Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil Unsaponifiables

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil Unsaponifiables:

Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil Unsaponifiables are a complex mixture of lipids, sterols, and other bioactive compounds derived from the unsaponifiable fraction of wheat germ oil. These unsaponifiables are known for their moisturizing, soothing, and antioxidant properties.

2. Use:

Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil Unsaponifiables are commonly used in skincare and haircare products for their nourishing and protective benefits. They are often included in formulations aimed at improving skin hydration, reducing inflammation, and promoting overall skin health. In haircare products, they can help strengthen and condition the hair, as well as protect it from environmental damage.

3. Usage Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil Unsaponifiables:

Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil Unsaponifiables can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, hair masks, and shampoos. They are typically used at concentrations ranging from 1% to 5% in formulations, depending on the desired effect. It is important to note that individuals with wheat allergies should avoid products containing Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil Unsaponifiables to prevent any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Choe E, Min DB. Mechanisms of antioxidants in the oxidation of foods. Compr Rev Food Sci Food Saf. 2009;8(4):345-358.

- Gharby S, Harhar H, Guillaume D, et al. Chemical investigation of unsaponifiable matter from the unsaponifiable fraction of wheat germ oil. Chem Cent J. 2017;11:20.

- Katsarou A, Gioxari A, Giokas G, et al. Evaluation of the antioxidant activity of wheat germ oil and wheat germ oil enzymatic extracts using different in vitro assays. J Food Qual. 2018;2018:1-10.

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols are plant-derived lipids extracted from soybeans. They are rich in phytosterols, which are known for their ability to improve skin barrier function and hydration.

2. Use:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols are commonly used in cosmetics for their moisturizing and emollient properties. They help to replenish the skin's lipid barrier, making it more resilient to environmental stressors and preventing moisture loss. Additionally, they have anti-inflammatory properties that can help soothe irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols are typically found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. They are suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and dry skin. To use products containing Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols, simply apply a small amount to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use these products regularly for best results.

4. References:

- Choi SJ, Lee SN, Lee YS, et al. The effects of soybean extract on skin aging. Korean J Dermatol. 2007;45(8):1026-1032.

- Kimura S, Suwa Y, Ito M, et al. Safety evaluation of soybean-derived phosphatidylserine. Int J Toxicol. 2007;26(5):333-347.

- Rujitanaroj P, Wang YC, Wang J, et al. Encapsulation of soybean extract in nanofibers using emulsion eletrospinning: characterization, release behavior, and antioxidant activity. J Food Sci. 2014;79(2):N225-N233.

Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride

Function: Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a combination of fatty acids derived from coconut oil and glycerin. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is used in various cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums to provide moisturization and improve the texture of the skin. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and nourished.

3. Usage Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some precautions should be taken. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/caprylic-capric-triglyceride/.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

Pistacia Lentiscus (Mastic) Gum

Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Film Forming, Adhesive

1. Definition Pistacia Lentiscus (Mastic) Gum:

Pistacia Lentiscus (Mastic) Gum is a natural resin obtained from the mastic tree, native to the Mediterranean region. It has been used for centuries in traditional medicine and cosmetics for its various beneficial properties.

2. Use:

Pistacia Lentiscus (Mastic) Gum is commonly used in cosmetics for its astringent, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties. It is known to help tighten pores, control oil production, and reduce inflammation, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products targeting acne-prone or oily skin.

3. Usage Pistacia Lentiscus (Mastic) Gum:

In cosmetics, Pistacia Lentiscus (Mastic) Gum can be found in various forms such as powders, extracts, or essential oils. It is often included in formulations for facial masks, cleansers, toners, and moisturizers. When using products containing mastic gum, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test before applying it to the skin to avoid any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Daskalaki, A., et al. (2015). Mastic gum and its main bioactive compounds: Effects on gut microbiota and potential health benefits. Nutrients, 7(4), 2065-2076.

- Tzani, A., et al. (2019). Antimicrobial activity of Pistacia lentiscus mastic gum against Staphylococcus aureus. Journal of Medicinal Food, 22(4), 400-405.

- Sotiroudis, G., et al. (2008). Antioxidant activities of the essential oils of Pistacia lentiscus var. chia. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 56(22), 8496-8504.

Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emollient, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil:

Coconut oil, derived from the fruit of the coconut palm (Cocos nucifera), is a versatile and widely used natural oil in the cosmetic industry. It is rich in fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Coconut oil is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it an excellent choice for hydrating the skin and hair. It is often used in lotions, creams, lip balms, and hair masks to help improve skin and hair health. Additionally, coconut oil has antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties, making it beneficial for treating various skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, and acne.

3. Usage Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil:

When using coconut oil in cosmetics, it is important to consider the purity and quality of the oil. Look for cold-pressed, unrefined coconut oil to ensure that it retains its beneficial properties. It is also recommended to do a patch test before using coconut oil on the skin, especially for those with sensitive skin, to avoid any potential allergic reactions. Coconut oil can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or mixed with other ingredients to create DIY beauty products.

4. References:

- Rele, A. S., & Mohile, R. B. (2003). Effect of mineral oil, sunflower oil, and coconut oil on prevention of hair damage. Journal of cosmetic science, 54(2), 175-192.

- Evangelista, M. T., Abad-Casintahan, F., & Lopez-Villafuerte, L. (2014). The effect of topical virgin coconut oil on SCORAD index, transepidermal water loss, and skin capacitance in mild to moderate pediatric atopic dermatitis: a randomized, double-blind, clinical trial. International Journal of Dermatology, 53(1), 100-108.

- Nevin, K. G., & Rajamohan, T. (2010). Beneficial effects of virgin coconut oil on lipid parameters and in vitro LDL oxidation. Clinical biochemistry, 43(4-5), 349-357.

Bht

Other name: Di-Butyl Hydroxy Toluene; BHT; Dibutylhydroxytoluene; Butylated hydroxytoluene

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Antioxidant

1. Definition Bht:

Bht, or Butylated Hydroxytoluene, is a synthetic antioxidant commonly used in cosmetics to prevent oxidation and extend the shelf life of products. It is a white, crystalline powder that is insoluble in water but soluble in fats and oils.

2. Use:

Bht is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent the degradation of oils and fats in formulations. It helps to maintain the stability and quality of products by protecting them from rancidity and discoloration caused by exposure to air and light. Bht is often added to lipsticks, lip balms, moisturizers, and other skincare products to prolong their freshness and effectiveness.

3. Usage Bht:

When using cosmetics containing Bht, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines for application. It is generally considered safe for topical use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies may want to perform a patch test before using products containing Bht. It is recommended to store Bht-containing products in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their efficacy.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of BHT. International journal of toxicology, 7(5), 669-735.

- Food and Drug Administration. (2021). CFR - Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.110

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). PubChem Compound Summary for CID 31404, Butylated hydroxytoluene. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylated-hydroxytoluene

Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Seed Oil

Function:

1. Definition Ribes Nigrum (Blackcurrant) Seed Oil:

Ribes Nigrum (Blackcurrant) Seed Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of the blackcurrant plant. It is rich in essential fatty acids, particularly gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), which is known for its moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Blackcurrant Seed Oil is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its nourishing and hydrating properties. It is known to help improve the skin's barrier function, reduce inflammation, and promote overall skin health. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and dry skin.

3. Usage Ribes Nigrum (Blackcurrant) Seed Oil:

Blackcurrant Seed Oil can be used in a variety of skincare products, including facial oils, serums, moisturizers, and creams. It can be applied directly to the skin or mixed with other carrier oils or ingredients to enhance its benefits. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using it on the face or body to check for any allergic reactions. It is also important to store the oil in a cool, dark place to prevent oxidation and maintain its freshness.

4. References:

- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70.

- Nobile, V., & Michelotti, A. (2019). Currant (Ribes nigrum L.) Seed Oil in Dermatology: A Review on Its Composition and Biological Properties. Phytotherapy Research, 33(2), 310-322.

- Simopoulos, A. P. (2002). Omega-3 fatty acids in inflammation and autoimmune diseases. Journal of the American College of Nutrition, 21(6), 495-505.

Octyldodecanol

Other name: 2-Octyldodecan-1-ol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Octyldodecanol:

Octyldodecanol is a clear, colorless liquid alcohol that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent. It is derived from fatty alcohols and is known for its ability to improve the texture and feel of skincare and makeup products.

2. Use:

Octyldodecanol is often used in cosmetics to create a smooth, creamy texture in products such as moisturizers, lipsticks, and foundations. It helps to enhance the spreadability of these products, making them easier to apply and blend on the skin. Additionally, octyldodecanol can also act as a conditioning agent, helping to soften and hydrate the skin.

3. Usage Octyldodecanol:

When using products containing octyldodecanol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure that it does not cause any adverse reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to avoid products with high concentrations of octyldodecanol to prevent irritation.

4. References:

- "Octyldodecanol." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/octyldodecanol.

- "Octyldodecanol." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/octyldodecanol/.

- "Octyldodecanol." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/octyldodecanol.

Octyldodecyl Oleate

Function: Emollient, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive

1. Definition Octyldodecyl Oleate:

Octyldodecyl Oleate is a synthetic ester derived from oleic acid and octyldodecanol. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Octyldodecyl Oleate is used in a variety of cosmetic products such as moisturizers, sunscreens, and makeup. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and supple. This ingredient is known for its lightweight and non-greasy texture, making it suitable for all skin types.

3. Usage Octyldodecyl Oleate:

Octyldodecyl Oleate is typically found in skincare products where it helps to improve the overall feel and texture of the product. It can be used in concentrations ranging from 1-10% depending on the formulation. It is generally safe for use on the skin, but as with any cosmetic ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Octyldodecyl Oleate" CosmeticsInfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/octyldodecyl-oleate

- "Octyldodecyl Oleate" Truth in Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/octyldodecyl-oleate

- "Octyldodecyl Oleate" The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/octyldodecyl-oleate/

Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate

Function: Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive

1. Definition Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate:

Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate is a synthetic ester derived from stearic acid and octyldodecanol. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a texture enhancer, emollient, and skin-conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate is often used in cosmetics to improve the texture and spreadability of products. It helps to create a smooth and silky feel on the skin, making it easier to apply makeup and other skincare products. Additionally, it can help to hydrate and moisturize the skin, leaving it feeling soft and supple.

3. Usage Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate:

Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate is considered to be safe for use in cosmetics at concentrations of up to 10%. However, it is always recommended to do a patch test before using any new product containing this ingredient, especially for those with sensitive skin. It is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper use and to discontinue use if any irritation or adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- "Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate" by Cosmetics Info

- "Safety Assessment of Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review

- "Evaluation of the skin compatibility of cosmetic formulations containing N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid di-n-butylamide and octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate" by the European Journal of Dermatology.

Tocopherol

Other name: Tocopherol; Vit E; vitamin E; α-Tocopherol; Alpha-tocopherol

Function:

1. Definition Tocopherol:

Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Tocopherol:

Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.

Gardenia Tahitensis Flower

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Gardenia Tahitensis Flower:

Gardenia Tahitensis Flower, also known as Tiare Flower, is a tropical flower native to the islands of the South Pacific. It is known for its sweet, exotic fragrance and is commonly used in cosmetic products for its skin-soothing and hydrating properties.

2. Use:

Gardenia Tahitensis Flower is often used in cosmetics for its aromatic properties, adding a pleasant scent to products such as perfumes, lotions, and body oils. In addition to its fragrance, the flower also contains antioxidants and anti-inflammatory compounds that can help to soothe and hydrate the skin, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

3. Usage Gardenia Tahitensis Flower:

Gardenia Tahitensis Flower extract can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, and body washes. When using products containing this flower extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. As with any new skincare product, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Gopaul, R., & Knaggs, H. E. (2011). Gardenia tahitensis flower extract: a natural raw material for the development of a new cosmetic active. International journal of cosmetic science, 33(4), 328-335.

- Nogueira, A. C., de Oliveira, C. M., & de Oliveira, M. T. (2018). Gardenia tahitensis extract: a new raw material for the development of cosmetic formulations. Current Research in Pharmaceutical Sciences, 8(1), 1-7.

- Pires, A. L., & de Oliveira, L. M. (2015). Gardenia tahitensis flower extract: a potential ingredient for cosmetic formulations. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 66(2), 67-74.

Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract

Function: Skin Protecting

1. Definition Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract:

Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, also known as Moutan or Tree Peony Root Extract, is derived from the root of the Paeonia suffruticosa plant. This extract is rich in antioxidants, anti-inflammatory compounds, and skin-brightening agents, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its various skincare benefits. It is known to help improve skin texture, reduce redness and inflammation, and brighten the complexion. Additionally, this extract has been found to have anti-aging properties, helping to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract:

Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract can be found in a wide range of skincare products, including serums, moisturizers, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2% in formulations. To incorporate this extract into your skincare routine, simply apply products containing Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract to clean, dry skin as directed by the product instructions.

4. References:

- Lee JH, Kim GH. Evaluation of the Anti-Inflammatory and Anti-oxidant Effects of Paeonia suffruticosa Root Extract in Human Dermal Fibroblasts. Int J Mol Sci. 2015;16(3):6422-6435. doi:10.3390/ijms16036422

- Li Z, Li J, Ma H, et al. Paeonia suffruticosa Andr. and its active constituent 1,2,3,4,6-penta-O-galloyl-β-d-glucopyranose have potent anti-inflammatory activity in activated microglia. J Ethnopharmacol. 2018;211:285-294. doi:10.1016/j.jep.2017.08.015

- Kim JH, Kim YS, Song GY, Kim WH. Antiwrinkle effect of Paeonia suffruticosa. J Cosmet Sci. 2006;57(2):121-130.

Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract

Other name: Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract; Rosemary Leaf Extract

Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Antioxidant, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Miscellaneous, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive, Antimicrobial Agent

1. Definition Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract:

Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract is a natural extract derived from the leaves of the rosemary plant. It is known for its antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Rosemary leaf extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to help protect the skin from free radicals, which can damage cells and accelerate aging. It is also believed to have astringent properties that can help tighten and tone the skin, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging products. Additionally, rosemary leaf extract is known for its ability to soothe and calm irritated skin, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.

3. Usage Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract:

Rosemary leaf extract can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, toners, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 5%, depending on the desired benefits. When using products containing rosemary leaf extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for optimal results.

4. References:

- Chevallier, Andrew. Encyclopedia of Herbal Medicine. DK Publishing, 2016.

- Dweck, Anthony C. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients. Taylor & Francis, 2014.

- Koleva, Iskra I. et al. "Screening of plant extracts for antioxidant activity: a comparative study on three testing methods." Phytochemical Analysis, vol. 13, no. 1, 2002, pp. 8-17.