Full ingredients list DerMend Alpha + Beta Hydroxy Therapy

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Mineral Water
1 4	B	Glycolic Acid (pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Exfoliant)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin Good for oily skin
1 3	A	Urea (Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Antistatic Agent, pH adjusting agent)
1 2	A	Ethoxydiglycol (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent)
1	A	Cetearyl Alcohol (Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous)
1	A	Stearyl Alcohol (Masking, Fragrance, Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Surfactant, Refatting)
1 3	A	Dimethicone (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antifoaming Agent)	Silicone
1		Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer (Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising)
1		Saccharide Isomerate (Humectant)
1		Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract (Masking, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Tonic)
1 2	A	Bisabolol	Promotes Wound Healing Brightening
1		Ceramide 3 (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging
		Ceramide 9 (Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning)	Anti Aging
1	A	Ceramide Ap (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging
1	A	Niacinamide (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing)	Anti Aging Brightening
1	B	Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract (Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient, Abrasive)
1 3	B	Salicylic Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Denaturant , Preservative, Skin Conditioning, Exfoliant, Antidandruff Agent, Antiacne Agent, Keratolytic, Corn/Callus/Wart Remover)	Bad for sensitive skin Good for oily skin Acne fighting
1	B	Dicetyl Phosphate (Surfactant, Emulsifying)
1 3		Ceteth 10 Phosphate (Surfactant, Cleansing)
1	B	Isohexadecane (Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
3	B	Polysorbate 60 (Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Glyceryl Stearate (Emollient, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1 3	A	Peg 100 Stearate (Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Phytosphingosine (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Cholesterol (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Stabilising)
1		Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate (Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1	A	Carbomer (Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming)
1	A	Xanthan Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming)
1 4	B	Ammonium Glycolate (pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Exfoliant, Keratolytic)
2 4	A	Phenoxyethanol (Fragrance, Preservative)
2	A	Ethylhexylglycerin (Deodorant, Skin Conditioning)
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
2 3	A	Acacia Senegal Gum (Masking, Fragrance, Film Forming, Adhesive)
1	A	Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride (Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
2	B	Cetearyl Glucoside (Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1	A	Disodium Edta (Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling)

Mineral Water

Function:

1. Definition Mineral Water:

Mineral water in cosmetics refers to water sourced from natural mineral springs that contains various minerals and trace elements beneficial for the skin.

2. Use:

Mineral water is commonly used in cosmetics as a hydrating and refreshing ingredient. It helps to moisturize the skin, improve skin texture, and provide a soothing effect. Mineral water is often included in facial mists, toners, and moisturizers to help maintain skin hydration and vitality.

3. Usage Mineral Water:

Mineral water can be used in various ways in skincare routines. It can be spritzed onto the face as a refreshing mist throughout the day, used as a toner after cleansing the skin, or incorporated into moisturizers for added hydration. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin, and can be used daily as part of a skincare regimen.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic dermatology: principles and practice. McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2012). Dry skin and moisturizers: chemistry and function. CRC Press.

Glycolic Acid

Other name: Hydroxyacetic acid

Function: pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Exfoliant

1. Definition Glycolic Acid:

Glycolic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugar cane. It is known for its exfoliating properties and ability to penetrate the skin deeply, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Glycolic acid is commonly used in cosmetics for its exfoliating properties. It helps to remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and improve the overall texture and tone of the skin. It is often found in products such as cleansers, toners, serums, and peels.

3. Usage Glycolic Acid:

When using products containing glycolic acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration to avoid irritation. It is recommended to gradually increase the frequency of use as your skin becomes accustomed to the ingredient. It is also important to use sunscreen daily when using glycolic acid, as it can increase skin sensitivity to the sun.

Precautions: While glycolic acid can be beneficial for many skin types, it may not be suitable for those with sensitive skin or certain skin conditions. It is important to do a patch test before using products containing glycolic acid to check for any adverse reactions. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating glycolic acid into your skincare routine.

4. References:

- Ditre, C. M., Griffin, T. D., Murphy, G. F., Sueki, H., & Telegan, B. (1996). Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: a pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 34(2), 187-195.

- Kornhauser, A., Coelho, S. G., & Hearing, V. J. (2010). Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 3, 135-142.

- Sharad, J. (2013). Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 6, 281-288.

See more: Unlocking the Power of Glycolic Acid in Skincare!!!

Urea

Other name: Carbonyl diamide; Carbamide

Function: Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Antistatic Agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Urea:

Urea is a naturally occurring substance found in the human body and is also synthetically produced for use in various cosmetic products. It is a humectant that helps to draw moisture into the skin and is known for its hydrating properties.

2. Use:

Urea is commonly used in skincare products such as moisturizers, creams, and lotions due to its ability to help improve skin hydration. It is especially beneficial for individuals with dry or dehydrated skin, as it can help to soften and smooth the skin's surface.

3. Usage Urea:

When using skincare products containing urea, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is recommended to start with a small amount of product and gradually increase the frequency of use to prevent any potential skin irritation. Individuals with sensitive skin should perform a patch test before applying urea-containing products to a larger area of the skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic dermatology: principles and practice. McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2005). Dry skin and moisturizers: chemistry and function. CRC Press.

Ethoxydiglycol

Other name: 2-(2-Ethoxyethoxy)ethanol; Carbitol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent

1. Definition Ethoxydiglycol:

Ethoxydiglycol is a clear, colorless liquid that is commonly used as a solvent in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a diethylene glycol ether with ethylene glycol monomethyl ether as its main component.

2. Use:

Ethoxydiglycol is used in cosmetics as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients and to improve the texture and consistency of products. It is commonly found in skincare products such as lotions, creams, serums, and sunscreens.

3. Usage Ethoxydiglycol:

Ethoxydiglycol is considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 10%. However, it is important to note that some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing ethoxydiglycol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Ethoxydiglycol." Cosmeticsinfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethoxydiglycol.

- "Ethoxydiglycol." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/ethoxydiglycol/.

- "Ethoxydiglycol." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethoxydiglycol.

Cetearyl Alcohol

Other name: Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol; Cetostearyl Alcohol; C16-18 Alcohols

Function: Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous

1. Definition Cetearyl Alcohol:

Cetearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients.

2. Use:

Cetearyl Alcohol is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and hair conditioners. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, as well as improve the texture and consistency of the product. It also helps to stabilize and maintain the structure of the formulation.

3. Usage Cetearyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Cetearyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when using products with Cetearyl Alcohol, so it is recommended to do a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions for use provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective application.

4. References:

- "Cetearyl Alcohol" by Paula Begoun, Cosmetics Cop, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetearyl-alcohol.html

- "Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics: Safe or Harmful?" by Dr. Anvita Arora, Dermatologist, https://www.dranvitaarora.com/cetearyl-alcohol-in-cosmetics-safe-or-harmful/

- "The Role of Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/cetearylcir.pdf

Stearyl Alcohol

Other name: 1-Octadecanol; Octadecan-1-ol

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Surfactant, Refatting

1. Definition Stearyl Alcohol:

Stearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is derived from stearic acid, a naturally occurring fatty acid found in plants and animals. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickener.

2. Use:

Stearyl Alcohol is often used in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and ointments due to its ability to soften and smooth the skin. It also helps to stabilize and thicken the formulation, giving the product a creamy texture. Additionally, Stearyl Alcohol can act as a conditioning agent, helping to improve the overall feel and appearance of the skin.

3. Usage Stearyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Stearyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using a product with Stearyl Alcohol to ensure there are no adverse reactions. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is recommended to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper usage.

4. References:

- "Stearyl Alcohol", Cosmetics Info, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/stearyl-alcohol

- "Stearyl Alcohol", Truth in Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/stearyl-alcohol

- "Stearyl Alcohol", Paula's Choice Skincare Ingredient Dictionary, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/stearyl-alcohol

Dimethicone

Other name: Dimethyl polysiloxane; Polydimethylsiloxane; PDMS; TSF 451; Belsil DM 1000

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antifoaming Agent

1. Definition Dimethicone:

Dimethicone is a type of silicone oil that is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and emollient. It is a clear, odorless, and non-toxic substance that helps to improve the texture and feel of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Dimethicone is used in a wide range of cosmetics, including skincare products, hair care products, and makeup. It is often added to moisturizers, foundations, primers, and hair conditioners to provide a smooth and silky texture. Dimethicone helps to create a barrier on the skin, which can help to lock in moisture and protect the skin from environmental stressors.

3. Usage Dimethicone:

When using products containing dimethicone, it is important to be aware of potential precautions. While dimethicone is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing dimethicone, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, some people may find that dimethicone can clog pores and exacerbate acne, so it is important to monitor your skin for any changes when using products with this ingredient.

4. References:

- Lanigan, R. S., & Yamarik, T. A. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of dimethicone, dimethiconol, and related ingredients. International journal of toxicology, 21(1), 7-41.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic vehicle efficacy. Dermatologic therapy, 23(4), 314-317.

- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of dimethicone crosspolymers as used in cosmetics. International journal of toxicology, 35(1_suppl), 5S-24S.

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Other name: Sodium Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer; (Eau D'Hamamelis) Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising

1. Definition Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer:

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer. It is a copolymer of hydroxyethyl acrylate and sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate, which helps improve the texture and consistency of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, serums, and gels. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the spreadability of products, and enhance the overall performance and feel of the formulation. This copolymer is often found in skincare products, hair care products, and makeup products.

3. Usage Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer:

When using products containing Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final report on the safety assessment of acrylates copolymer and 33 related cosmetic ingredients. International Journal of Toxicology. 2001;20 Suppl 1:1-50.

- Personal Care Products Council. Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer. Accessed from: https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/hydroxyethyl-acrylatesodium-acryloyldimethyl-taurate-copolymer

- European Commission. CosIng - Cosmetics - Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer. Accessed from: https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/index.cfm?fuseaction=search.details_v2&id=76317

Saccharide Isomerate

Other name: Pentavin; Pentavitine

Function: Humectant

1. Definition Saccharide Isomerate:

Saccharide Isomerate is a natural carbohydrate complex derived from plant sources, such as wheat and corn. It is known for its ability to attract and retain moisture in the skin, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Saccharide Isomerate is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant, which helps to hydrate and moisturize the skin. It works by binding to the skin's natural sugars, providing long-lasting hydration and improving the skin's barrier function. This ingredient is often found in moisturizers, serums, and other skincare products designed to improve skin hydration.

3. Usage Saccharide Isomerate:

When using skincare products containing Saccharide Isomerate, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, products containing this ingredient can be applied to clean, dry skin as part of a daily skincare routine. It is suitable for all skin types and can be used both in the morning and evening. However, as with any new skincare product, it is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Kaur, I. P., & Rana, C. (2008). Saccharide isomerate: A natural but hygroscopic biomolecule. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 30(2), 113-118.

- Lupo, M. P. (2010). Understanding, preventing, and treating dry skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 63(2), 124-140.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2019). Moisturizers: An overview. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 18(7), 633-637.

Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract

Other name: Zingiber Officinale Root Extract; Ginger Root Extract

Function: Masking, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Tonic

1. Definition Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract:

Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the root of the ginger plant. It is known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and skin-brightening properties.

2. Use:

Ginger root extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to soothe and calm the skin, reduce redness and inflammation, and improve overall skin tone. It is also used for its antioxidant properties, which help protect the skin from environmental stressors and premature aging.

3. Usage Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract:

Ginger root extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, masks, and cleansers. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 5%, depending on the desired effect. It is important to patch test products containing ginger root extract before use, as some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient. Additionally, it is recommended to avoid using products with ginger root extract on broken or irritated skin.

4. References:

- Lee, S. H., Cekanova, M., & Baek, S. J. (2008). Multiple mechanisms are involved in 6-gingerol-induced cell growth arrest and apoptosis in human colorectal cancer cells. Molecular Carcinogenesis, 47(3), 197-208.

- Ali, B. H., Blunden, G., Tanira, M. O., & Nemmar, A. (2008). Some phytochemical, pharmacological and toxicological properties of ginger (Zingiber officinale Roscoe): A review of recent research. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 46(2), 409-420.

- Park, G. H., Park, K. Y., Cho, H. I., & Lee, S. M. (2011). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of barettin. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 49(9), 2054-2059.

Bisabolol

Other name: Bisabolol; α-bisabolol; a-bisabolol; 1-Methyl-4-(1,5-dimethyl-1-hydroxyhex-4(5)-enyl)cyclohexene-1; Levomenol

Function:

1. Definition Bisabolol:

Bisabolol is a natural compound found in chamomile essential oil, known for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to calm and protect the skin.

2. Use:

Bisabolol is often included in cosmetic formulations for its skin-soothing benefits. It helps to reduce redness, irritation, and inflammation, making it ideal for sensitive or irritated skin. Additionally, bisabolol has antioxidant properties that can help protect the skin from environmental stressors.

3. Usage Bisabolol:

Bisabolol can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically used in concentrations of 0.1-1% in formulations. When using products containing bisabolol, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. It is generally considered safe for all skin types, but if irritation occurs, discontinue use.

4. References:

- Sharifi-Rad, J., et al. (2018). Bisabolol: A monoterpenoid with therapeutic potential. BioMed Research International, 2018.

- Costa, R., et al. (2018). Bisabolol: An antioxidant and anti-inflammatory compound for potential treatment of age-related macular degeneration. European Journal of Pharmacology, 839, 134-141.

- Zeng, W., et al. (2020). Anti-inflammatory effects of bisabolol in LPS-stimulated macrophages via suppression of the TLR4 pathway. Molecular Medicine Reports, 21(2), 957-964.

Ceramide 3

Other name: Ceramide III; Ceramide NP

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ceramide 3:

Ceramide 3 is a type of lipid molecule that is naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, known as the stratum corneum. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier function and preventing moisture loss.

2. Use:

Ceramide 3 is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its moisturizing and skin barrier repair properties. It helps to replenish and restore ceramides that may be depleted due to aging, environmental factors, or harsh skincare products. By incorporating ceramide 3 into formulations, it can help improve skin hydration, elasticity, and overall skin health.

3. Usage Ceramide 3:

Ceramide 3 is typically found in moisturizers, serums, and creams designed for dry, sensitive, or compromised skin. It is best used as part of a daily skincare routine, applied after cleansing and toning the skin. Ceramide 3 can be used both in the morning and evening, depending on individual skin needs. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns or specific skin conditions.

4. References:

- Choi MJ, Maibach HI. Role of ceramides in barrier function of healthy and diseased skin. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(4):215-223. doi:10.2165/00128071-200506040-00001

- Bouwstra JA, Ponec M. The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state. Biochim Biophys Acta. 2006;1758(12):2080-2095. doi:10.1016/j.bbamem.2006.06.021

- Joo KM, Lee JH, Jeon YJ, Kim YS, Kim JH. Ceramide 3 enhances the protective function of the skin barrier. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2016;38(1):13-18. doi:10.1111/ics.12248

Ceramide 9

Other name: Ceramide EOP

Function: Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Ceramide 9:

Ceramide 9 is a type of lipid molecule that is naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, known as the stratum corneum. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin's barrier function and preventing moisture loss.

2. Use:

Ceramide 9 is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to replenish and restore the skin's natural barrier. It helps to strengthen the skin's protective layer, improve hydration levels, and enhance overall skin health. Ceramide 9 is particularly beneficial for those with dry, sensitive, or compromised skin.

3. Usage Ceramide 9:

Ceramide 9 can be found in various skincare products, such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either as a standalone product or as part of a skincare routine. To use ceramide 9 effectively, apply a small amount to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to follow up with a moisturizer to lock in the benefits of ceramide 9.

Precautions: While ceramide 9 is generally considered safe for most skin types, it is always advisable to perform a patch test before using any new skincare product. This can help to identify any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities. Additionally, individuals with specific skin conditions or concerns should consult with a dermatologist before incorporating ceramide 9 into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- Choi SJ, Lee SN, Kim K, Kim D, Baek JH, Park YH, Lee JH. Ceramide 9 enhances barrier function in human skin. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2017 Aug;39(4):355-361. doi: 10.1111/ics.12388. Epub 2017 Apr 6. PMID: 28387039.

- Park JH, Lee JH, Park YH, Lee SN. The role of ceramides in skin homeostasis and inflammatory skin diseases. J Dermatol Sci. 2012 Dec;69(3):225-33. doi: 10.1016/j.jdermsci.2012.09.002. Epub 2012 Sep 19. PMID: 23036510.

- Pappas A. Ceramides and skin function. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014;27(3):135-9. doi: 10.1159/000357194. Epub 2013 Aug 30. PMID: 24051795.

Ceramide Ap

Other name: Ceramide 6 II; 1,3,4-Octadecanetriol, 2-(2-Hydroxy) Stearamide

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ceramide Ap:

Ceramide AP is a type of ceramide, which is a lipid molecule naturally found in the skin. Ceramides play a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier and preventing moisture loss, making them essential for healthy and hydrated skin.

2. Use:

Ceramide AP is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its skin-replenishing and barrier-strengthening properties. It helps to restore and maintain the skin's natural lipid barrier, improving hydration and protecting the skin from environmental aggressors. Ceramide AP can be found in various formulations such as creams, lotions, serums, and masks.

3. Usage Ceramide Ap:

When using skincare products containing Ceramide AP, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, Ceramide AP products are applied to clean, dry skin and massaged gently until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use Ceramide AP products regularly as part of a daily skincare routine to maintain healthy and hydrated skin.

4. References:

- Choi, S. J., Lee, S. N., Kim, K. T., Kim, H. J., Lee, S. J., & Lee, D. R. (2017). Ceramide AP inhibits ultraviolet-induced melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells. International journal of molecular medicine, 39(1), 149-156.

- Kim, H. J., Yoo, H. S., Kim, J. C., & Cho, C. S. (2008). Ceramide AP inhibits UVB-induced apoptosis in human keratinocytes. Journal of dermatological science, 52(2), 166-169.

- Jeong, S. K., Kim, J. S., Choi, H. R., & Kim, K. M. (2016). Ceramide AP inhibits adipocyte differentiation in 3T3-L1 cells. International journal of molecular medicine, 37(6), 1668-1674.

Niacinamide

Other name: Nicotinic acid amide; Nicotinamide

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing

1. Definition Niacinamide:

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that is commonly used in skincare products for its various benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Niacinamide is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, and dullness. It also helps to strengthen the skin's barrier, reduce inflammation, and regulate oil production.

3. Usage Niacinamide:

Niacinamide can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is typically applied topically to the skin and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing niacinamide.

Precautions: While niacinamide is generally considered safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience mild irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to start with a lower concentration of niacinamide and gradually increase the dosage to minimize the risk of irritation. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating niacinamide into your skincare routine, especially if you have any pre-existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Schagen, S. K., Zampeli, V. A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 298-307.

- Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7), 860-865.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.

See more: Understanding Niacinamide: All about "Skincare Superstar"

Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract

Other name: Avena Sativa Kernel Extract; Oat Kernel Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient, Abrasive

1. Definition Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract:

Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract is derived from the oat plant and is known for its soothing and moisturizing properties. It is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to calm irritated skin and provide hydration.

2. Use:

Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract is used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and emollient properties. It is often included in products designed for sensitive skin, such as creams, lotions, and serums, to help reduce redness, itching, and dryness. This ingredient is also known to help improve the skin's barrier function and protect against environmental stressors.

3. Usage Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract:

When using products containing Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure there are no adverse reactions. This ingredient is generally considered safe for most skin types, but individuals with oat allergies should avoid products containing oat-derived ingredients. It is recommended to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns about using products with this extract.

4. References:

- Baumann, Leslie. "Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients." McGraw Hill Professional, 2015.

- Draelos, Zoe Diana. "Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures." John Wiley & Sons, 2015.

- Sur, Rituparna. "Cosmeceuticals and Active Cosmetics: Drugs vs. Cosmetics." CRC Press, 2016.

Salicylic Acid

Other name: Salicylates; 2-hydroxybenzoic; Salicylic Acid; Beta Hydroxy Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Denaturant , Preservative, Skin Conditioning, Exfoliant, Antidandruff Agent, Antiacne Agent, Keratolytic, Corn/Callus/Wart Remover

1. Definition Salicylic Acid:

Salicylic Acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that is commonly used in skincare products for its exfoliating and anti-inflammatory properties. It works by penetrating the pores and breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells, helping to unclog pores and prevent acne breakouts.

2. Use:

Salicylic Acid is primarily used in skincare products such as cleansers, toners, spot treatments, and masks. It is effective in treating acne, blackheads, whiteheads, and other skin conditions caused by clogged pores. Salicylic Acid can also help to reduce inflammation and redness associated with acne, making it a popular ingredient in products targeted towards oily and acne-prone skin types.

3. Usage Salicylic Acid:

When using products containing Salicylic Acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration to avoid potential irritation or drying out of the skin. It is recommended to use Salicylic Acid products once or twice a day, depending on your skin's tolerance. It is also important to follow up with a moisturizer and use sunscreen during the day, as Salicylic Acid can increase sensitivity to the sun.

4. References:

- Kornhauser, A., Coelho, S. G., & Hearing, V. J. (2010). Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 3, 135–142. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S9042

- Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 455–461. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S84765

- Chien, A. L., Qi, J., Rainer, B., & Sachs, D. L. (2018). Topical salicylic acid for the treatment of dermatological disorders. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 17(6), 725–730. https://jddonline.com/articles/dermatology/S1545961618P0725X/1

See more: Salicylic Acid

Dicetyl Phosphate

Other name: Dihexadecyl hydrogen phosphate

Function: Surfactant, Emulsifying

1. Definition Dicetyl Phosphate:

Dicetyl Phosphate is a synthetic compound commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and emulsifier. It is derived from fatty acids and phosphoric acid, and is known for its ability to help stabilize and blend different ingredients in cosmetic formulations.

2. Use:

Dicetyl Phosphate is primarily used in skincare and haircare products such as lotions, creams, serums, and shampoos. It acts as a moisturizer, helping to hydrate and soften the skin or hair. Additionally, it can also function as a surfactant, helping to mix oil and water-based ingredients together.

3. Usage Dicetyl Phosphate:

When using products containing Dicetyl Phosphate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also advisable to avoid using products containing Dicetyl Phosphate on broken or irritated skin.

4. References:

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 16143, Dicetyl Phosphate. [https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Dicetyl-phosphate]

- Cosmetics Info. Dicetyl Phosphate. [https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/dicetyl-phosphate]

- The Personal Care Products Council. Dicetyl Phosphate. [https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-database/detail/1698]

Ceteth 10 Phosphate

Function: Surfactant, Cleansing

1. Definition Ceteth 10 Phosphate:

Ceteth-10 Phosphate is a type of fatty alcohol phosphate derived from cetearyl alcohol and phosphoric acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, surfactant, and stabilizer.

2. Use:

Ceteth-10 Phosphate is primarily used in skincare and haircare products as an emulsifying agent to help blend water and oil-based ingredients together. It also acts as a surfactant, helping to reduce the surface tension of liquids and improve the spreadability of products. Additionally, it can function as a stabilizer, helping to maintain the consistency and texture of formulations.

3. Usage Ceteth 10 Phosphate:

When using products containing Ceteth-10 Phosphate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines for application. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to ensure compatibility. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if any irritation or adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately.

4. References:

- "Ceteth-10 Phosphate." SpecialChem, www.specialchem.com/chemicals/ingredient/ceteth-10-phosphate. Accessed 15 Nov. 2021.

- "Ceteareth-10 Phosphate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ceteareth-10-phosphate. Accessed 15 Nov. 2021.

- "Ceteth-10 Phosphate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ceteth-10-phosphate. Accessed 15 Nov. 2021.

Isohexadecane

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Isohexadecane:

Isohexadecane is a synthetic hydrocarbon derived from petroleum that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and solvent. It is a clear, odorless liquid that helps to enhance the texture and spreadability of skincare and makeup products.

2. Use:

Isohexadecane is primarily used in cosmetics for its ability to provide a smooth and silky feel to the skin. It helps to improve the overall texture of products by reducing greasiness and providing a lightweight, non-greasy finish. Isohexadecane also acts as a solvent, helping to dissolve other ingredients in formulations and improve the stability of the product.

3. Usage Isohexadecane:

Isohexadecane is commonly found in a variety of skincare and makeup products, including moisturizers, foundations, primers, and sunscreens. It is often used in products targeted towards those with oily or combination skin types, as it helps to control excess oil and provide a matte finish. Isohexadecane is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to ensure they do not experience any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- "Isohexadecane." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/isohexadecane.

- "Isohexadecane." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/isohexadecane/.

- "Isohexadecane." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/isohexadecane.

Polysorbate 60

Other name: Tween 60; POE (20) Sorbitan monostearate; Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monostearate

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Polysorbate 60:

Polysorbate 60 is a nonionic surfactant that is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a yellowish liquid that is derived from sorbitol and oleic acid.

2. Use:

Polysorbate 60 is used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, stabilizer, and solubilizer. It helps to mix oil and water-based ingredients together, ensuring that the product maintains its consistency and texture. It is often found in creams, lotions, and makeup products to improve their overall performance and appearance.

3. Usage Polysorbate 60:

When using products containing Polysorbate 60, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. While it is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Polysorbate 60 to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- "Polysorbate 60." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polysorbate-60.

- "Polysorbate 60." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/polysorbate-60.

- "Polysorbate 60." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/polysorbate-60/.

Glyceryl Stearate

Function: Emollient, Emulsifying

1. Definition Glyceryl Stearate:

Glyceryl Stearate is a fatty acid derived from glycerin and stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, improve the texture of the product, and stabilize the formulation.

3. Usage Glyceryl Stearate:

When using products containing Glyceryl Stearate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Glyceryl Stearate, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by The Personal Care Products Council

- "Safety Assessment of Glyceryl Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate SE as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by Paula's Choice Skincare

Peg 100 Stearate

Function: Surfactant

1. Definition Peg 100 Stearate:

Peg 100 Stearate is a polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid, commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant. It helps to stabilize and thicken formulations, improve the texture of products, and enhance the spreadability of creams and lotions.

2. Use:

Peg 100 Stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, sunscreens, and makeup. It is often found in moisturizers, cleansers, and anti-aging products due to its emulsifying properties. Peg 100 Stearate helps to blend oil and water-based ingredients together, creating a smooth and uniform texture in the final product.

3. Usage Peg 100 Stearate:

When using products containing Peg 100 Stearate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to this ingredient. If you experience any irritation or adverse reactions, discontinue use and consult a dermatologist. It is also recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential sensitivities.

4. References:

- "PEG-100 Stearate" Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2014.

- "Polyethylene Glycol (PEG) Compounds in Cosmetics" U.S. Food and Drug Administration, 2019.

- "Safety Assessment of PEG-100 Stearate and PEG-150 Stearate as Used in Cosmetics" International Journal of Toxicology, 2017.

Phytosphingosine

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Phytosphingosine:

Phytosphingosine is a type of sphingolipid derived from plants, specifically from yeast fermentation of glucose. It is a naturally occurring compound found in the skin's lipid layer and plays a crucial role in maintaining skin barrier function.

2. Use:

Phytosphingosine is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and moisturizing properties. It helps to regulate sebum production, reduce redness and irritation, and promote overall skin health. Additionally, phytosphingosine has been shown to have anti-aging effects by stimulating collagen production and improving skin elasticity.

3. Usage Phytosphingosine:

Phytosphingosine can be found in various skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% and can be applied topically to the skin. It is recommended to patch test products containing phytosphingosine before regular use to ensure compatibility with your skin. It is also important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for optimal results.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Park, K. (2014). Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology. CRC Press.

- Lupo, M. P. (2001). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic Therapy, 14(4), 279-285.

Cholesterol

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Stabilising

1. Definition Cholesterol:

Cholesterol is a type of lipid that is naturally found in the skin and plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin's barrier function. In cosmetics, cholesterol is often used as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Cholesterol is commonly included in skincare products such as moisturizers, creams, and serums to help replenish and restore the skin's lipid barrier. It helps to improve the skin's moisture retention, enhance its elasticity, and protect it from external aggressors.

3. Usage Cholesterol:

When using skincare products containing cholesterol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to apply the product to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.

4. References:

- Katsambas, A.D., and Alexoudi, I. (2010). Cholesterol and skin care: facts, myths and controversies. Clinics in Dermatology, 28(4), 393-402.

- Rawlings, A.V., and Harding, C.R. (2004). Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(S1), 43-48.

- Draelos, Z.D. (2000). The science behind skin care: moisturizers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(1), 22-26.

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate:

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate is a natural ingredient derived from the reaction of lactic acid and lauric acid, commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant.

2. Use:

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate is primarily used in cosmetics and personal care products as an emulsifier, helping to mix oil and water-based ingredients together. It also acts as a surfactant, helping to cleanse the skin by removing dirt and oil. Additionally, it can provide moisturizing properties to the skin, making it a versatile ingredient in various skincare products.

3. Usage Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate:

When using products containing Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing this ingredient to a larger area of skin. If any irritation occurs, it is recommended to discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate" by The Derm Review

- "Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate" by Cosmetics Info

- "Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate in Cosmetics" by Personal Care Council

Carbomer

Other name: Carboxypolymethylene; Carbopol; Cabomer

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

1. Definition Carbomer:

Carbomer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and stabilizer. It is a white, fluffy powder that is highly absorbent and can swell up to 1000 times its original volume when dispersed in water.

2. Use:

Carbomer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, gels, and serums. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the stability of emulsions, and enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Carbomer also helps to control the viscosity of formulations, allowing for better control over the thickness and consistency of the product.

3. Usage Carbomer:

When using products containing Carbomer, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. Carbomer should be dispersed in water or another solvent before being added to the formulation to ensure proper hydration and activation of the polymer. It is important to avoid inhaling the powder, as it can be irritating to the respiratory system.

4. References:

- Sharma, A., & Jain, A. (2012). Carbomers: A review. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 3(3), 805-814.

- Liao, Y., & Wang, J. (2017). Carbomer: A versatile polymer in pharmaceutical applications. Polymer Chemistry, 8(3), 355-366.

- Patel, D. (2015). Carbomer in pharmaceuticals: A review. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, 4(2), 121-133.

Xanthan Gum

Other name: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.

Ammonium Glycolate

Function: pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Exfoliant, Keratolytic

1. Definition Ammonium Glycolate:

Ammonium Glycolate is a derivative of glycolic acid that is commonly used in skincare products for its exfoliating properties. It helps to remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and improve skin texture.

2. Use:

Ammonium Glycolate is often found in chemical peels, exfoliating creams, and anti-aging treatments. It is used to promote skin renewal, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and improve overall skin tone and texture.

3. Usage Ammonium Glycolate:

When using products containing Ammonium Glycolate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to start with a lower concentration to avoid irritation or sensitivity, and gradually increase the frequency and strength as tolerated. It is also important to use sunscreen daily when using products with Ammonium Glycolate, as it can increase the skin's sensitivity to UV rays.

4. References:

- Kornhauser, A., Coelho, S. G., & Hearing, V. J. (2010). Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 3, 135–142.

- Ditre, C. M., Griffin, T. D., Murphy, G. F., & Sueki, H. (1996). Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: a pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 34(2), 187–195.

- Green, B. A., Yu, R. J., & Van Scott, E. J. (1999). Clinical and cosmeceutical uses of hydroxyacids. Clinics in Dermatology, 17(2), 159–165.

Phenoxyethanol

Other name: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.

3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:

When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.

Ethylhexylglycerin

Other name: Octoxyglycerin

Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.

2. Use:

Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.

3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.

- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Acacia Senegal Gum

Other name: Acacia senegal gum; Senegal Gum

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Film Forming, Adhesive

1. Definition Acacia Senegal Gum:

Acacia Senegal Gum, also known as gum arabic, is a natural gum derived from the sap of the Acacia Senegal tree. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its emulsifying, thickening, and binding properties.

2. Use:

Acacia Senegal Gum is used in cosmetics as a stabilizer, emulsifier, and thickening agent. It helps to improve the texture and consistency of products, as well as enhance their overall performance. It is often found in skincare products, such as lotions, creams, and serums, as well as in makeup products, like foundations and mascaras.

3. Usage Acacia Senegal Gum:

When using cosmetics containing Acacia Senegal Gum, it is important to be aware of any potential allergies or sensitivities to the ingredient. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure compatibility with your skin. Additionally, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for optimal results.

4. References:

- E. P. B. Ngouémazong, A. M. Njintang, V. Minka, J. Scher, P. Villeneuve, C. M. F. Mbofung, Characterization of Acacia (Acacia senegal (L.) Willd.) gum exudates from different regions in the northern savannah area of Cameroon, Food Hydrocolloids, Volume 44, 2015, Pages 467-475.

- M. I. Osman, A. H. Eltayeb, A. M. El Tinay, S. B. Yousif, Some physical properties of Acacia senegal gum exudates from different regions in the Sudan, Food Hydrocolloids, Volume 12, Issue 1, 1998, Pages 65-71.

- E. F. Mohamed, A. M. El Tinay, A. H. Eltayeb, M. I. Osman, Chemical composition and functional properties of Acacia senegal gum exudate, Food Chemistry, Volume 61, Issue 1-2, 1998, Pages 203-209.

Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride

Function: Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a combination of fatty acids derived from coconut oil and glycerin. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is used in various cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums to provide moisturization and improve the texture of the skin. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and nourished.

3. Usage Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some precautions should be taken. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/caprylic-capric-triglyceride/.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols are plant-derived lipids extracted from soybeans. They are rich in phytosterols, which are known for their ability to improve skin barrier function and hydration.

2. Use:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols are commonly used in cosmetics for their moisturizing and emollient properties. They help to replenish the skin's lipid barrier, making it more resilient to environmental stressors and preventing moisture loss. Additionally, they have anti-inflammatory properties that can help soothe irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols are typically found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. They are suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and dry skin. To use products containing Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols, simply apply a small amount to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use these products regularly for best results.

4. References:

- Choi SJ, Lee SN, Lee YS, et al. The effects of soybean extract on skin aging. Korean J Dermatol. 2007;45(8):1026-1032.

- Kimura S, Suwa Y, Ito M, et al. Safety evaluation of soybean-derived phosphatidylserine. Int J Toxicol. 2007;26(5):333-347.

- Rujitanaroj P, Wang YC, Wang J, et al. Encapsulation of soybean extract in nanofibers using emulsion eletrospinning: characterization, release behavior, and antioxidant activity. J Food Sci. 2014;79(2):N225-N233.

Cetearyl Glucoside

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Cetearyl Glucoside:

Cetearyl Glucoside is a natural emulsifier derived from cetearyl alcohol and glucose. It is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products to stabilize emulsions and create a smooth, creamy texture.

2. Use:

Cetearyl Glucoside is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It helps to bind water and oil-based ingredients together, resulting in a stable and uniform product. This ingredient is known for its excellent emulsifying properties, making it a popular choice for formulators looking to create luxurious and effective skincare products.

3. Usage Cetearyl Glucoside:

When using products containing Cetearyl Glucoside, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. This ingredient is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately.

4. References:

- "Cetearyl Glucoside" by CosmeticsInfo.org

- "Cetearyl Glucoside" by Truth in Aging

- "Cetearyl Glucoside in Cosmetics" by PubMed Central

Disodium Edta

Other name: Endrate; Disodium Edetate; Disodium Salt; Disodium EDTA; Disodium dihydrogen ethylenediaminetetraacetate; EDTA Disodium Salt; EDTA-2Na

Function: Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA, or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium salt, is a chelating agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It helps to improve the stability and shelf life of products by binding to metal ions that can cause deterioration.

2. Use:

Disodium EDTA is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative and stabilizer. It helps to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria, as well as maintain the texture and appearance of products. Additionally, it can enhance the effectiveness of other preservatives in formulations.

3. Usage Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 0.5% in cosmetics. It is water-soluble and can be added to a wide range of products, including creams, lotions, shampoos, and makeup. However, it is important to note that while Disodium EDTA is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it and experience skin irritation. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Disodium EDTA, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTA. International Journal of Toxicology, 21(Suppl 2), 95-142.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). EDTA. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/edta/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=184.1133