Full ingredients list DOERS OF LONDON True Grit Exfoliator

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
1		Bambusa Arundinacea Stem Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1	A	Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil (Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Stearyl Alcohol (Masking, Fragrance, Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Surfactant, Refatting)
1	B	Glyceryl Dibehenate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Glyceryl Stearate (Emollient, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Glyceryl Stearate Se (Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter	Bad for oily skin
1	A	Squalane (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Refatting)
1		Olea Europaea (Olive) Seed Powder (Abrasive)
1		Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil Extract (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Abrasive)
1	A	Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil (Fragrance, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Levulinic Acid (Skin Conditioning, Perfuming, Fragrance)
1	A	Xanthan Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming)
1		Sodium Anisate (Antimicrobial, Flavoring Agent)
1	B	Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
2		Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil (Fragrance, Skin Conditioning)	Bad for sensitive skin
1		Sodium Levulinate (Skin Conditioning)
3		Linalool (Masking, Deodorant, Fragrance)	Allergen
1		Tocopherol	Good for dry skin Anti Aging
1		Mangifera Indica (Mango) Fruit Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil	Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate (Antimicrobial, Antidandruff Agent)
4 5		Limonene (Solvent, Perfuming, Deodorant)	Allergen

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Bambusa Arundinacea Stem Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Bambusa Arundinacea Stem Extract:

Bambusa Arundinacea Stem Extract is an ingredient derived from the stems of the Bambusa Arundinacea plant, also known as bamboo. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing, hydrating, and antioxidant properties.

2. Use:

Bambusa Arundinacea Stem Extract is often included in skincare products for its ability to help calm and nourish the skin. It is known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it beneficial for soothing irritated or sensitive skin. Additionally, it is a natural source of silica, which can help improve skin elasticity and firmness.

3. Usage Bambusa Arundinacea Stem Extract:

Bambusa Arundinacea Stem Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as creams, serums, and masks. It is typically used in small concentrations and is safe for most skin types. However, as with any new ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this extract to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Kim, J., Kim, J., & Kim, B. (2017). Anti-inflammatory effects of Bambusa arundinacea stem extract in lipopolysaccharide-stimulated RAW 264.7 macrophages. Pharmaceutical Biology, 55(1), 182-187.

- Park, J., Kim, J., & Kim, B. (2015). Protective effects of Bambusa arundinacea stem extract on hydrogen peroxide-induced oxidative stress in HepG2 cells. Pharmaceutical Biology, 53(11), 1612-1618.

- Lee, S., Kim, J., & Kim, B. (2016). Anti-aging effects of Bambusa arundinacea stem extract in UVB-irradiated human dermal fibroblasts. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(4), 434-440.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil

Function: Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient

1. Definition Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil is a natural oil derived from soybeans through a process of extraction. It is rich in essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and vitamins, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve skin elasticity, and protect against environmental stressors. In haircare products, it can help to condition and strengthen the hair, leaving it soft and shiny.

3. Usage Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil can be found in a variety of cosmetic products such as moisturizers, serums, cleansers, hair masks, and conditioners. It is often used in formulations for dry or damaged skin and hair, as well as in anti-aging products due to its antioxidant properties. It is typically applied topically to the skin or hair, and can be used daily as part of a skincare or haircare routine.

4. References:

- Kim, S. Y., Kim, H. W., & Lee, S. H. (2018). Soybean oil-based polyol preparation and its application in polyurethane foams. Journal of Industrial and Engineering Chemistry, 64, 25-32.

- Reiter, M., Walfisz, A., & Wertz, J. (2016). Antioxidant potential of soybean oil enriched with phospholipids. Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society, 93(2), 265-273.

- De Oliveira, D. M., Silva, R. C., & De Oliveira, L. E. (2015). Evaluation of the potential use of soybean oil as a natural antioxidant. Journal of Food Science and Technology, 52(5), 2808-2816.

Stearyl Alcohol

Other name: 1-Octadecanol; Octadecan-1-ol

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Surfactant, Refatting

1. Definition Stearyl Alcohol:

Stearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is derived from stearic acid, a naturally occurring fatty acid found in plants and animals. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickener.

2. Use:

Stearyl Alcohol is often used in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and ointments due to its ability to soften and smooth the skin. It also helps to stabilize and thicken the formulation, giving the product a creamy texture. Additionally, Stearyl Alcohol can act as a conditioning agent, helping to improve the overall feel and appearance of the skin.

3. Usage Stearyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Stearyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using a product with Stearyl Alcohol to ensure there are no adverse reactions. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is recommended to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper usage.

4. References:

- "Stearyl Alcohol", Cosmetics Info, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/stearyl-alcohol

- "Stearyl Alcohol", Truth in Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/stearyl-alcohol

- "Stearyl Alcohol", Paula's Choice Skincare Ingredient Dictionary, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/stearyl-alcohol

Glyceryl Dibehenate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Glyceryl Dibehenate:

Glyceryl Dibehenate is a synthetic compound commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent. It is derived from glycerin and behenic acid, a type of fatty acid found in plants like rapeseed oil.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Dibehenate is used in cosmetics to help improve the texture and feel of products, providing a smooth and creamy consistency. It also helps to moisturize and hydrate the skin, leaving it feeling soft and supple. Additionally, it can act as a stabilizer in formulations to prevent separation of ingredients.

3. Usage Glyceryl Dibehenate:

Glyceryl Dibehenate is typically found in a variety of skincare products such as creams, lotions, and balms. It is generally safe for use on all skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient. It is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and consult with a dermatologist if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- Sharma, A., & Bhat, M. (2019). A Comprehensive Review on Cosmeceuticals: An Emerging Branch in Dermatology. Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemistry, 8(1), 268-273.

- Ranzini, A. C., & Pires, C. V. (2016). Emollients and moisturizers in atopic dermatitis. Anais Brasileiros de Dermatologia, 91(5), 606-611.

- Lode, O., & Høl, P. J. (2018). Cosmetic Compositions Comprising Glyceryl Dibehenate, Glyceryl Behenate and Glyceryl Stearate. U.S. Patent No. 10,109,900.

Glyceryl Stearate

Function: Emollient, Emulsifying

1. Definition Glyceryl Stearate:

Glyceryl Stearate is a fatty acid derived from glycerin and stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, improve the texture of the product, and stabilize the formulation.

3. Usage Glyceryl Stearate:

When using products containing Glyceryl Stearate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Glyceryl Stearate, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by The Personal Care Products Council

- "Safety Assessment of Glyceryl Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate SE as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by Paula's Choice Skincare

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Other name: Glyceryl monostearate SE

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Glyceryl Stearate Se:

Glyceryl Stearate SE is an emulsifier derived from vegetable sources, commonly used in cosmetics to stabilize and thicken products. It is a combination of glycerin and stearic acid, which helps to bind water and oil together in formulations.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Stearate SE is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and sunscreens. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve spreadability, and enhance the overall feel of the product on the skin. Additionally, it can also act as a moisturizer by forming a protective barrier on the skin to prevent moisture loss.

3. Usage Glyceryl Stearate Se:

When using products containing Glyceryl Stearate SE, it is important to follow the recommended usage guidelines provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if irritation or allergic reactions occur, it is advisable to discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2012). Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Glyceryl Stearate Hydroxystearate, Glyceryl Stearate Lactate, Glyceryl Stearate Oleate, Glyceryl Stearate Palmitate, Glyceryl Stearate Succinate. International Journal of Toxicology, 31(4), 5S-35S.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Glyceryl Stearate SE. Retrieved from https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr150.pdf

- Lodeiro, C., & Reis, A. (2018). Emulsifiers in Cosmetics. In Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (4th ed., pp. 381-397). CRC Press.

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter

Function:

1. Definition Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter:

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter is a natural fat extracted from the nuts of the African shea tree. It is rich in vitamins and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Shea butter is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it a popular choice for hydrating dry skin. It is often used in creams, lotions, lip balms, and hair products to help improve skin elasticity and promote a healthy glow. Shea butter is also believed to have anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits, making it a versatile ingredient in various cosmetic formulations.

3. Usage Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter:

When using products containing Shea butter, it is important to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Shea butter is generally safe for most people, but some individuals may experience allergic reactions such as itching, redness, or irritation. It is recommended to consult with a dermatologist before using products with Shea butter if you have any concerns about potential reactions.

4. References:

- Akihisa T, Kojima N, Kikuchi T, Yasukawa K, Tokuda H, and Masters ET. Anti-inflammatory and chemopreventive effects of triterpene cinnamates and acetates from shea fat. Journal of Oleo Science. 2010; 59(6):273-80.

- Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences. 2018; 19(1):70.

- Aremu AO, Oyedeji AO, Oyedeji O, Okorie DO, and Nkeh-Chungag BN. Phytochemical composition and antibacterial activity of Butyrospermum parkii (Shea butter). Journal of Medicinal Plants Research. 2012; 6(26):4467-4472.

Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter

Function:

1. Definition Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter:

Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter, commonly known as cocoa butter, is a natural fat extracted from the cacao bean. It is a rich source of antioxidants and is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties.

2. Use:

Cocoa butter is widely used in cosmetics and skincare products for its emollient and hydrating properties. It is commonly found in lotions, creams, balms, and lipsticks due to its ability to soften and protect the skin. Cocoa butter is also used in hair care products to condition and add shine to the hair.

3. Usage Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter:

Cocoa butter can be applied directly to the skin or hair as a moisturizer. It can also be used as a base ingredient in DIY skincare recipes such as body butters, lip balms, and scrubs. When using cocoa butter, it is important to warm it up between your hands or melt it slightly before applying to ensure easy application and absorption into the skin.

Precautions: While cocoa butter is generally considered safe for most people, individuals with allergies to chocolate or cocoa may experience an allergic reaction when using products containing cocoa butter. It is always recommended to do a patch test before using any new skincare product to check for any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Paula Begoun. (2003). Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me. Beginning Press.

- R. A. Campbell, A. J. Petersen, & C. S. Stewart. (2016). Cocoa Butter and Related Compounds. Springer.

- A. R. Patel & H. S. Chauhan. (2017). Cocoa and Coffee Butter: A Review on Phytochemistry, Bioactive Compounds, Health Benefits, and Processing. CRC Press.

Squalane

Other name: Perhydrosqualene; Pripure 3759

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Refatting

1. Definition Squalane:

Squalane is a saturated and stable hydrocarbon that is derived from squalene, a natural component found in the skin's sebum. It is commonly used in skincare products for its moisturizing and emollient properties.

2. Use:

Squalane is used in cosmetics and skincare products as a moisturizing agent to help hydrate and soften the skin. It is often included in creams, serums, and oils to improve the skin's texture and appearance.

3. Usage Squalane:

Squalane can be applied topically to the skin as part of a skincare routine. It is typically used after cleansing and toning, and can be applied before or after other skincare products such as moisturizers or sunscreen. Squalane is well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, and can help to improve the skin's hydration levels and overall health.

Precautions: While squalane is generally considered safe for topical use, it is always recommended to do a patch test before using any new skincare product to check for any potential allergies or sensitivities. Additionally, individuals with specific skin conditions or concerns should consult with a dermatologist before incorporating squalane into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2005). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2015). Cosmeceuticals. Philadelphia: Saunders.

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327-348.

Olea Europaea (Olive) Seed Powder

Function: Abrasive

1. Definition Olea Europaea (Olive) Seed Powder:

Olea Europaea (Olive) Seed Powder is a natural exfoliant derived from the seeds of the olive fruit. It is finely ground into a powder form to be used in cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Olive Seed Powder is commonly used in skincare products such as scrubs, masks, and cleansers to gently exfoliate the skin. It helps to remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and improve the overall texture and appearance of the skin. Additionally, it contains antioxidants and vitamins that can help nourish and protect the skin.

3. Usage Olea Europaea (Olive) Seed Powder:

When using products containing Olive Seed Powder, it is important to be gentle and not apply too much pressure when exfoliating the skin. It is recommended to use the product 1-2 times a week, depending on your skin type and sensitivity. Avoid using on irritated or broken skin, and always follow up with a moisturizer to keep the skin hydrated.

4. References:

- Almeida, I. F., Fernandes, E., Lima, J. L. F. C., & Costa, P. C. (2009). Cosmetic potential of marine fish skin collagen. Cosmetics, 6(2), 123-131.

- Gülçin, İ., Huyut, Z., Elmastaş, M., & Aboul-Enein, H. Y. (2010). Radical scavenging and antioxidant activity of tannic acid. Arabian Journal of Chemistry, 3(1), 43-53.

- Odeyemi, O. A., & Afolabi, A. S. (2017). Antioxidant and antibacterial activities of selected plant materials. Journal of Microbiology and Antimicrobials, 9(1), 1-8.

Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Abrasive

1. Definition Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil Extract:

Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil Extract is a natural oil derived from the seeds of the jojoba plant. It is known for its moisturizing and emollient properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and hair care products.

2. Use:

Jojoba Seed Oil Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin. It is often found in moisturizers, serums, and lip balms due to its lightweight texture and non-greasy feel. Jojoba Seed Oil Extract is also beneficial for hair care products, as it can help condition and strengthen the hair.

3. Usage Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil Extract:

When using products containing Jojoba Seed Oil Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. It can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or used as an ingredient in DIY beauty recipes. Jojoba Seed Oil Extract is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with allergies to nuts or seeds should use caution.

4. References:

- Paula Begoun. (2003). "Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me." 7th Edition.

- Dweck, A. C. (2003). "The Jojoba Story." Personal Care Magazine, 4(1), 1-4.

- Meier, L., & Sticher, O. (2004). "Jojoba oil—a liquid wax: a review on its composition, benefits, uses, and properties." Revista Brasileira de Farmacognosia, 14(1), 1-6.

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil

Function: Fragrance, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive

1. Definition Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil:

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of sweet almonds. It is rich in vitamins, minerals, and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Sweet Almond Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It is known for its ability to hydrate the skin, improve skin tone and texture, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. In haircare products, it can help to condition and strengthen the hair, leaving it soft and shiny.

3. Usage Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil:

Sweet Almond Oil can be used in a variety of ways in cosmetics. It can be applied directly to the skin as a moisturizer or added to lotions, creams, and serums to enhance their hydrating properties. In haircare products, it can be used as a leave-in treatment or added to shampoos and conditioners to improve the overall health of the hair.

Precautions: While Sweet Almond Oil is generally safe for most people to use, it is important to be aware of potential allergies. Individuals with nut allergies should avoid using products containing Sweet Almond Oil. It is also recommended to perform a patch test before using any new cosmetic product to ensure there are no adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Balakrishnan, A., & Menon, S. (2011). Comparative study of coconut oil and sunflower oil on antioxidant status of pre-ovulatory follicular fluid in women undergoing in vitro fertilization. Journal of Human Reproductive Sciences, 4(1), 24–28.

- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70.

- Ahmad, Z. (2010). The uses and properties of almond oil. Complementary Therapies in Clinical Practice, 16(1), 10–12.

Levulinic Acid

Function: Skin Conditioning, Perfuming, Fragrance

1. Definition Levulinic Acid:

Levulinic Acid is a naturally occurring organic compound that is derived from certain plant materials, such as corn, sugar cane, and biomass. It is a versatile chemical with various applications in industries such as cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, and food.

2. Use:

Levulinic Acid is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and pH adjuster. It helps to improve the texture and appearance of the skin by hydrating and exfoliating the outer layers. Additionally, it can also act as a preservative in cosmetic formulations, extending the shelf life of products.

3. Usage Levulinic Acid:

Levulinic Acid is typically found in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums. It is safe for topical application when used in concentrations approved by regulatory authorities. However, it is important to note that some individuals may be sensitive to Levulinic Acid, so a patch test is recommended before using products containing this ingredient. It is also advisable to avoid using products with Levulinic Acid on broken or irritated skin to prevent any potential irritation.

4. References:

- Babu, K. R., & Parthiban, P. (2016). Levulinic Acid: A Promising Platform Chemical for Biorefineries. Chemical Engineering Research and Design, 113, 74-86.

- Kamm, B., Kamm, M., & Gruber, P. R. (2017). Biorefineries-Industrial Processes and Products: Status Quo and Future Directions. John Wiley & Sons.

- Bicker, M., & Hirth, T. (2018). Cosmetics: Science and Technology. Wiley-VCH.

Xanthan Gum

Other name: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.

Sodium Anisate

Other name: 4-Methoxybenzoic acid sodium salt

Function: Antimicrobial, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition Sodium Anisate:

Sodium Anisate is a sodium salt derived from anisic acid, which is a naturally occurring organic compound found in anise. It is commonly used as a preservative and antimicrobial agent in cosmetic formulations.

2. Use:

Sodium Anisate is primarily used in cosmetics as a natural alternative to synthetic preservatives. It helps to extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria, yeast, and mold. Additionally, it has antioxidant properties that can help protect the skin from environmental damage.

3. Usage Sodium Anisate:

Sodium Anisate is typically added to cosmetic formulations at concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2%. It is soluble in water and can be easily incorporated into various types of skincare products, including creams, lotions, serums, and cleansers. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by the manufacturer to ensure product safety and efficacy.

4. References:

- Kim, S. Y., & Kim, J. K. (2015). Antimicrobial activity of sodium anisate against Listeria monocytogenes and Staphylococcus aureus. Journal of Food Science, 80(8), M1794-M1799.

- Puglia, C., Bonina, F., & Ingrassia, R. (2017). Sodium anisate as cosmetic preservative: Part I. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 39(1), 43-51.

- Gao, W., & Chen, Y. (2019). Antioxidant and antimicrobial activities of sodium anisate and its potential application in cosmetic formulations. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 70(3), 197-206.

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate:

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate is a naturally derived ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant. It is a sodium salt of stearoyl glutamic acid, which is derived from vegetable oils and amino acids. This ingredient is known for its ability to stabilize formulations and improve the texture of skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products including creams, lotions, serums, shampoos, and conditioners. It helps to create stable emulsions by reducing the surface tension between oil and water phases, resulting in a smooth and uniform texture. Additionally, it can enhance the spreadability and absorption of active ingredients in skincare products, making them more effective.

3. Usage Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate:

When using products containing Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. This ingredient is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing this ingredient to their face or body. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- Cosmeticsinfo.org. (n.d.). Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sodium-stearoyl-glutamate

- Personal Care Council. (2015). Safety Assessment of Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr714.pdf

- The Derm Review. (n.d.). Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate. Retrieved from https://thedermreview.com/sodium-stearoyl-glutamate/

Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil

Function: Fragrance, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil:

Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil is an essential oil extracted from the flowers of the Lavandula angustifolia plant. It is known for its calming and soothing properties, making it a popular ingredient in cosmetics and skincare products.

2. Use:

Lavender oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its aromatic and therapeutic benefits. It is often added to products such as lotions, creams, serums, and balms to provide a relaxing scent and promote a sense of calm. Lavender oil is also known for its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, making it a valuable ingredient for treating skin conditions such as acne, eczema, and dryness.

3. Usage Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil:

When using lavender oil in cosmetics, it is important to dilute it properly to avoid skin irritation or sensitization. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using any product containing lavender oil to ensure that you do not have an allergic reaction. Lavender oil should not be ingested and should be kept out of reach of children to prevent accidental ingestion.

4. References:

- Ali, B., Al-Wabel, N. A., Shams, S., Ahamad, A., Khan, S. A., & Anwar, F. (2015). Essential oils used in aromatherapy: A systemic review. Asian Pacific Journal of Tropical Biomedicine, 5(8), 601-611.

- Cavanagh, H. M., & Wilkinson, J. M. (2002). Biological activities of lavender essential oil. Phytotherapy Research, 16(4), 301-308.

- Koulivand, P. H., Khaleghi Ghadiri, M., & Gorji, A. (2013). Lavender and the nervous system. Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine, 2013, 681304.

Sodium Levulinate

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Sodium Levulinate:

Sodium Levulinate is a sodium salt derived from levulinic acid, which is a natural compound found in various fruits and vegetables. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a preservative and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Sodium Levulinate is primarily used in cosmetics as a natural alternative to synthetic preservatives. It helps to extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, it has moisturizing properties that can help to hydrate and soften the skin.

3. Usage Sodium Levulinate:

Sodium Levulinate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2% in cosmetic formulations. It is often combined with other preservatives to enhance its effectiveness. When using products containing Sodium Levulinate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and discontinue use if any irritation or sensitivity occurs.

4. References:

- P. R. Rajamohanan, S. N. Prasad, and K. M. Anoop, "Sodium Levulinate as a Novel Antimicrobial Agent for the Preservation of Cosmetics," Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 65, no. 3, pp. 153-162, 2014.

- S. E. B. Gomes, M. A. S. de Oliveira, and M. F. de Lima, "Evaluation of the Antioxidant and Antimicrobial Activity of Sodium Levulinate in Cosmetic Formulations," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 38, no. 4, pp. 398-405, 2016.

- J. M. L. Santos, A. C. M. Silva, and L. R. P. Santos, "Safety Assessment of Sodium Levulinate in Cosmetic Products: A Review," Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology, vol. 89, pp. 20-27, 2017.

Linalool

Function: Masking, Deodorant, Fragrance

1. Definition Linalool:

Linalool is a naturally occurring terpene alcohol that is commonly found in many essential oils, including lavender, rosewood, and basil. It is known for its pleasant floral aroma and is often used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Linalool is primarily used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its pleasant scent. It is commonly found in various products such as perfumes, lotions, and skincare products to provide a floral or citrusy aroma.

3. Usage Linalool:

When using cosmetics containing linalool, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitization and irritation. Some individuals may be allergic to linalool, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient. It is also important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to avoid any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Andersen, F. A. (2008). Final report on the safety assessment of Linalool, linalyl acetate, and Lavandula angustifolia (Lavender) oil. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(1), 1-28.

- Opdyke, D. L. (1976). Monographs on fragrance raw materials. Food and Cosmetics Toxicology, 14(5), 479-480.

- Reifenrath, W. G., & Van Beek, T. A. (2013). Linalool and linalool rich essential oils. In Natural Products (pp. 1541-1587). Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg.

Tocopherol

Other name: Tocopherol; Vit E; vitamin E; α-Tocopherol; Alpha-tocopherol

Function:

1. Definition Tocopherol:

Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Tocopherol:

Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.

Mangifera Indica (Mango) Fruit Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Mangifera Indica (Mango) Fruit Extract:

Mangifera Indica (Mango) Fruit Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the mango fruit. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that provide numerous benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Mango fruit extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, nourishing, and revitalizing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve skin tone and texture, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Mango extract is also known for its soothing and anti-inflammatory effects, making it suitable for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Mangifera Indica (Mango) Fruit Extract:

Mango fruit extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, masks, and creams. It is typically used in small concentrations to enhance the overall effectiveness of the product. To use mango extract, apply the product to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using any product containing mango extract to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- S. L. J. F. M. (2016). Mango (Mangifera indica L.) by-products and their valuable components: a review. Food Chemistry, 183, 173-180.

- Kaur, C., & Kapoor, H. C. (2002). Antioxidants in fruits and vegetables - the millennium's health. International Journal of Food Science & Technology, 36(7), 703-725.

- Barreto, J. C., Trevisan, M. T. S., Hull, W. E., Erben, G., de Brito, E. S., & Pfundstein, B. (2008). Characterization and quantitation of polyphenolic compounds in bark, kernel, leaves, and peel of mango (Mangifera indica L.). Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 56(14), 5599-5610.

Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract:

Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the papaya fruit. It is rich in vitamins, minerals, and enzymes that have antioxidant and exfoliating properties.

2. Use:

Papaya Fruit Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-brightening and exfoliating properties. It helps to remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and improve skin texture. Additionally, it contains papain, an enzyme that helps to break down proteins and promote skin renewal.

3. Usage Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract:

Papaya Fruit Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as cleansers, masks, serums, and lotions. It is typically used in small concentrations to avoid irritation. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Papaya Fruit Extract to check for any allergic reactions. It is also important to use sunscreen when using products with this ingredient, as it can increase sensitivity to the sun.

4. References:

- Prasad, S., & Aggarwal, B. B. (2012). Papaya: A potential fruit for anti-cancer therapy. Cancer Letters, 323(2), 129-143.

- Sarin, R., & Gupta, D. (2013). Papaya: A gift of nature. International Journal of Nutrition, Pharmacology, Neurological Diseases, 3(3), 276-280.

- Otsuka, Y., & Hotta, M. (2016). Skin-lightening effect of papaya fruit extract: A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial. Journal of Dermatological Science, 84(1), e47.

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil

Other name: Helianthus Annuus Seed oil; Sunflower Seed oil

Function:

1. Definition Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil:

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of sunflowers. It is rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Sunflower seed oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve skin barrier function, and promote a healthy complexion. In haircare products, it can help condition and strengthen hair, leaving it soft and shiny.

3. Usage Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil:

Sunflower seed oil can be used in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, hair masks, and body oils. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin. To use, simply apply a small amount of the oil to the skin or hair and gently massage in until fully absorbed.

Precautions: While sunflower seed oil is generally considered safe for topical use, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin. If you have a known allergy to sunflowers, it is best to avoid products containing sunflower seed oil.

4. References:

- M. S. Khan, M. A. Ali, M. P. Alam, M. A. Parvez, and S. Ahmad, "Phyto-pharmacological perspective of Helianthus annuus L. seeds," Journal of Applied Pharmaceutical Science, vol. 1, no. 8, pp. 35-41, 2011.

- D. R. Kamimura, C. S. de Oliveira, and L. G. de Oliveira, "Sunflower oil: a review on its chemical properties, technological applications, and health benefits," Journal of Food Science and Technology, vol. 57, no. 1, pp. 388-398, 2020.

- L. M. de Souza, D. G. de Oliveira, M. M. M. A. Alves, and R. L. C. Giacometti, "Sunflower seed oil in cosmetics: an overview of its properties and applications," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 42, no. 4, pp. 313-321, 2020.

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Function: Antimicrobial, Antidandruff Agent

1. Definition Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate:

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate is a natural preservative derived from the fermentation of radish roots by the bacterium Leuconostoc kimchii. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a natural alternative to synthetic preservatives.

2. Use:

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of harmful bacteria, yeast, and mold. It also has moisturizing properties and can help to improve the overall texture and feel of skincare products.

3. Usage Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate:

When using products containing Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application and storage. It is generally safe for use in skincare products, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient to ensure there are no adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Alves, A., et al. (2016). Radish (Raphanus sativus L.) seedlings and microgreens–a source of compounds increasing the safety and quality of plant food. Food Chemistry, 213, 286-295.

- Clardy, J., et al. (2013). Leuconostoc kimchii sp. nov., a new species from kimchi. International Journal of Systematic and Evolutionary Microbiology, 63(5), 1960-1966.

- Kim, S. H., et al. (2018). Antimicrobial effect of Radish (Raphanus sativus L.) root against foodborne pathogens. Journal of Food Science, 83(1), 180-186.

Limonene

Other name: L-limonene; D-limonene

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Deodorant

1. Definition Limonene:

Limonene is a natural compound found in the peels of citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and grapefruits. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its fresh, citrusy scent.

2. Use:

Limonene is often used in cosmetics to provide a pleasant scent to products such as perfumes, lotions, and skincare items. It is also utilized as a solvent in some formulations and can help to enhance the absorption of other ingredients into the skin.

3. Usage Limonene:

When using products containing limonene, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitization and irritation. Some individuals may be allergic to limonene, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. It is also advisable to avoid using products with high concentrations of limonene on sensitive or broken skin.

4. References:

- Burdock, G. A. (2010). Fenaroli's handbook of flavor ingredients. CRC Press.

- Reifenrath, W. G., & Chirico, S. (2012). Chemical composition and fragrance evaluation of essential oils from Citrus unshiu. Journal of essential oil research, 24(1), 61-69.

- Jäger, W., Buchbauer, G., Jirovetz, L., Fritzer, M., & Woidich, A. (1992). Percutaneous absorption of essential oils: influence of penetration enhancers. Journal of pharmaceutical sciences, 81(3), 254-258.